INSERT INTO `wp_postmeta` VALUES (12038,2074,'_elementor_data','[{\"id\":\"19c1\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"background_background\":\"gradient\",\"margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":0,\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":0,\"isLinked\":true},\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3f08\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7e70\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"<p>Insulation<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1093\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"From the attic to the basement, insulation is like a down jacket around your house that keeps you warm in the winter (and, like a thermos, cool in the summer). In many houses, it is probably easier to insulate than it is to seal air leaks, though it\\u2019s a big job if you need to insulate exterior walls. Attics are relatively easy to insulate, and most houses can benefit from some added insulation. Regardless of the age of your house, don\\u2019t be fooled just because there\\u2019s some insulation in the attic\\u2014even if it looks like a lot. Some homes have a thin layer that does little good; others have insulation that was installed in only the areas that were easy to reach. Even newer homes that have a lot of insulation can still have significant gaps and installation problems that are worth fixing\\u2014by someone who cares enough about the details to do it right.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6f8e\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"65fd\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"593e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Attic Insulation<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Sloped Ceilings<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Insulating Walls<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Insulating Floors<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Insulating Foundation Walls<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3fba\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5ddd\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4f1e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"5897\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Attic Insulation\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2ce3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attics are typically insulated first, and they usually receive the most insulation. People usually assume that attics are insulated because \\u201cheat rises,\\u201d but heat doesn\\u2019t actually rise at all. The reason attics tend to get more insulation is much less glamorous: The attic is simply the cheapest and easiest place to add insulation, in both old and new houses. In fact, in a moderately insulated two-story house, there may be two to four times as much conductive heat loss (not including air leakage or windows) through the exterior walls as through the attic. Perform air-sealing before you insulate, unless you plan to insulate with sprayed foam and complete the air sealing at the same time. Also, if you intend to vent a bath fan, install a ventilation system, change any electrical wiring, or do any other work in the attic, now is the time.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2d7\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2309\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6497\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"How much insulation?\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7e15\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Insulation is measured in R-value; the higher the R-value, the less heat loss. To some extent, there is an effect of diminishing returns in that the first 6 in. of insulation will save you more money than the next 6 in. But it doesn\\u2019t pay to skimp, either. Once you\\u2019re up in the attic installing insulation, you may as well do it right. Generally, the minimum recommended R-value for an attic is R-38. In cold northern climates, aim for between R-50 and R-60; in hot climates, R-30 may be adequate. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3984345\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"64295dd\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4cde704\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Fiberglass Batts\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4acf754\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Fiberglass batts are typically the insulation of choice for do-it-yourselfers. The material is easy to transport and install by yourself. It\\u2019s ideal for an attic where you may want to add living space later (or make other changes), because it is easy to remove and replace. But there is a price to pay for convenience.  No matter how carefully you detail fiberglass batts, they rarely work as well as the factory ratings suggest.  Because of the annoying, itchy quality of fiberglass, several manufacturers market encapsulated batts that are surrounded by plastic. Steer clear of these products; they\\u2019re more of a marketing gimmick than a worthwhile innovation. Encapsulated batts are more expensive and harder to install properly. Although the coverings may make the material more comfortable to work with, they also increase the difficulty of detailing the batts properly.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2a0589e\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"c72cad9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"eb1d68a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blowing attic insulation\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"db16c97\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If your roof is made with trusses, or the attic has flooring with little or no insulation under it, it\\u2019s hard to get good results with fiberglass. In those cases, your best bet is to use a loose-fill material, such as cellulose. One big advantage of blown cellulose is that it is fast and easy to install. You don\\u2019t have to worry about cutting, fitting, fluffing, or most of the other details that concern fiberglass batts. You can also cover the top of existing insulation with cellulose, which will settle into all the gaps and spaces between the batts. This improves what\\u2019s already there and adds R-value.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6cad54e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"69c97ac\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The flame-retardant chemicals used to treat cellulose tend to discourage insects and rodents from nesting in it.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"ee743ed\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7ef8df3\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"83ab221\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Storage areas\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"79c3c90\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"People often use attics for storage. Eliminate attic storage, if possible. There are plenty of good reasons to get rid of stuff (both thermal and psychological). Still, many homes lack storage space, and the attic is a natural place for those boxes of holiday decorations. If you have a partially or fully floored attic, you can set aside an area near the access hatch or stairs by making a dam out of 12-in.-thick fiberglass batts. Insulate the rest of the attic, making sure there is insulation under the floorboards as well. Once the dust has settled, you should be able to move stuff in and out without disturbing the insulation.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"95780a3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"10ff\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"426\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"bc449ad\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"4e9a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sloped Ceilings\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"643e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Many homes have sloped ceiling areas\\u2014places where plaster or drywall is applied directly to the underside of the roof rafters. Examples include Cape-style houses, which usually have sloped ceilings between the knee wall and the flat ceiling above or rooms with partial or full cathedral ceilings. Some homes just have a narrow-sloped area for a few feet near the eaves. These enclosed cavities present more of a challenge than an open attic. Some, like the typical Cape, have fairly easy access from an attic space either above or below. Others, like a full cathedral ceiling, are more difficult. The biggest distinction between dense-packed and open-blown cellulose is that dense-pack is installed in an enclosed cavity. But it\\u2019s not enough just to be enclosed\\u2014to dense-pack, by definition, means using enough air pressure to compress the material more densely than it could ever compress from settling.\\n\\nRoof-shingle warranties are another concern. Unvented cathedral ceilings experience hotter roof temperatures\\u2014typically by 2 percent to 4 percent\\u2014than vented roofs. Because those higher temperatures may accelerate degradation (venting is assumed to reduce roof temperatures), some roofing manufacturers won\\u2019t honor warranty claims on unvented, or hot, roofs. But research has shown that shingle color actually has a much larger impact (about 10 percent) on roof temperature than venting does, and several manufacturers do provide warranty service for unvented roofs. Choose one of those, or vent the roof first if shingle-warranty service is important to you.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3069\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing moisture risk\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7b19\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>There are serious concerns relating to venting a cathedral- or flat-roof ceiling space. Good air sealing (which dense-packing helps) and indoor humidity control via mechanical ventilation help reduce condensation and moisture buildup. But even an excellent dense-pack job can allow some air movement. In an unvented cathedral ceiling or flat roof, this can deposit moisture at the roof deck, especially in a home with high humidity. There are two basic strategies to avoid increasing the risk of condensation and potential damage to the roof deck: using foam insulation to control condensing temperatures, and ensuring an opening from the unvented cavities into a larger, vented space. The first approach\\u2014using continuous foam insulation\\u2014is the only proven, code-approved method for an unvented roof. It can take two basic forms: rigid foam insulation added above and in contact with the roof deck, or sprayed foam added directly to the underside of the roof deck. Rigid foam is typically added during a re-roof, but usually a new sheathing surface (with a furred, vented space in heavy snow areas) is needed on top of the foam. This approach is expensive, but it\\u2019s a practical way to address a house with full cathedral ceilings if the roof is close to needing replacement. Consider interior sprayed foam insulation if you are planning extensive interior renovations (see \\u201cRenovations\\u201d for more discussion). With either foam method, once the roof deck is protected from condensation by a high enough R-value of foam, the remainder of the cavity may be insulated with blown insulation or batt (called \\u201cflash and batt\\u201d). The R-value of foam insulation depends on climate (see the table on the facing page and the map below). Both of these methods are explicitly allowed by code; both are energy efficient and low risk in any climate. The second approach is to provide a partial venting path for the closed dense-pack area. This can be achieved in homes that have sections of sloped ceilings (such as Cape-style homes) that may be difficult or impossible to vent properly. If one end of the dense-packed area is open to a vented attic space (preferably the top), any wetting effects appear to be balanced by drying toward the vented space. This approach can also be used under low-slope roofs (for example, a row house or shed dormer), where access near the low side is impossible. Experience has shown that up to one-third of the total attic area can be dense-packed without venting, provided that the remaining attic space is vented normally. Note that this method does not conform to standard code requirements but has been accepted by many local building officials. And I would consider this approach much riskier in climate zones 6 to 8. Of course, just as with an open attic floor, you have to be careful to avoid chimneys and non-IC-rated recessed lights. If you have a chimney in a key leak area, you may want to consider using a high-performance fiberglass. You could also open up the ceiling in that area to air-seal the chase with sheet metal.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"c76b352\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"High Performance Fiberglass\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"29201d7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"A new breed of blown-in fiberglass materials is now on the market. High performance fiberglass (such as Johns-Manville Spider\\u00ae and Knauf Perimeter PlusTM) can be dense packed to reduce air movement as effectively as cellulose in closed cavities. These products have slightly higher R-values than cellulose, but at much lower densities\\u2014and lower risk of plaster blow-out. The Building Performance Institute is developing a standard (Standard BPI-3202-T) to qualify other insulation products based on air-leakage control. Because these products are noncombustible, they are also safe to use in cavities adjacent to a chimney or fireplace.\\n\\nIf you insulate a roof with spray foam and there\\u2019s a furnace in the attic, you need to pay attention to combustion air requirements. You should be okay if the furnace is a modern powervented or condensing unit. But if it\\u2019s an older atmospheric-vented unit, you may need to add some transfer grilles from the attic into the living space. Better yet, replace the furnace with a high efficiency direct-vent unit.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"e11\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Existing Insulation in Older Homes\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6799\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Most homes built before the 1930s had no insulation at all, so if your home is from that era, you will be looking for insulation that was added later. It may be blown-in cellulose or urea-formaldehyde foam. If the walls are already insulated, it is rarely worth adding more, unless you find large areas that were never done at all, or if the walls were not insulated properly. If the installed insulation has settled and each wall bay has a large empty space at the top, it may be worth filling them in. Also look out for \\u201cback-plastering.\\u201d Although unusual, backplastered walls are built with an extra layer of lath and plaster in the middle of the stud space, to add an extra airspace and reduce heat loss through the wall. Those walls are difficult to insulate due to the narrow space, and it\\u2019s probably better to leave them alone unless you do major remodeling or re-siding. Homes that were built prior to 1960 may have minimal insulation; some have insulation that is sandwiched between layers of paper. It is possible to add cellulose insulation to walls with those thin insulation layers, but only with a fill tube. If the wall has thicker batts, it will probably be almost impossible to get the fill tube into the wall cavity without bunching the insulation; in that case, it won\\u2019t be worth trying to add more.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2e07\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"633\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"35d2\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"285\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"54b6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Insulating Walls\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5d09\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If you have little or no insulation in your walls, you will definitely benefit from installing some. Conductive heat loss through uninsulated walls represents a significant heating and cooling load, and it\\u2019s usually cost-effective to add insulation. Exterior walls are fairly difficult to insulate, unless you are remodeling, installing new drywall, or re-siding the house. Retrofitting insulation almost always means blowing in insulation; the process is very much like that for sloped ceiling dense-pack outlined above. The type of siding has a big impact on how easy it is to get into the wall, and it may help you decide whether to tackle the job yourself or hire an insulation contractor.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2dcd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"What\\u2019s in there now?\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"aff\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"How do you know what\\u2019s in the walls already? If you have done any remodeling on the house, you may already know. If not, there are a several ways to find out. It\\u2019s important to know what is in there, because that will have a big impact on how easy\\u2014or useful\\u2014it will be to insulate the walls. Remember that there may be different types of insulation (or none at all) in different parts of the house. If some rooms have been remodeled, or built at a different time, they will likely be insulated differently. Sometimes people start to insulate a house and don\\u2019t finish, so look in several places to be fairly certain of what is there. If the insulation is spotty or inconsistent, an infrared camera can identify all the areas that are uninsulated.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"ed0c7c0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3576\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2955\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7385\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"1cf1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Insulating Floors\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2536\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Some floors need insulation, and some do not. A basement with a furnace or boiler is typically warm enough that insulating the floor won\\u2019t save you much, if anything. Seal and insulate foundation walls to help keep that heat in the house. Most people want their basements to be at least moderately warm, at least to reduce the risk of pipes freezing and dry things out a bit. If you don\\u2019t mind having a very cold basement, you can combine floor insulation with insulating and sealing the ducts (or insulating heating pipes) to help keep the heat in the upper floors. Some floors that should be insulated are cantilevers; floors over garages, on stilts, or on piers; and slab-on-grade floors in cold climates. The open side of a conditioned walkout basement is also a slab-on-grade floor.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5afb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Insulating an enclosed-cavity floor with cellulose\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"795f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Any floor that is exposed to outdoor conditions or unconditioned space and has solid sheathing on the underside can be insulated with blown-in cellulose. Examples include garage ceilings, exposed heated porches, cantilevered overhangs, and sheathed floors built on piers. The process is the same as that for filling cavities in cathedral ceilings or walls. You must drill holes in each bay, and then patch the holes when you are done.\\n\\nIn termite-prone areas, exterior rigid foam is not recommended, because insects can hide behind the insulation on their way into the house. Some manufacturers make insect-resistant polystyrene-foam products. Typically, those products do not have insect-repelling qualities that will protect your home; they only prevent critters from nesting in the material. Check your local building code to see whether those products are acceptable for such applications in your area.\\n\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1cc7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Insulating a slab floor\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3dc0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"An uninsulated slab floor can lose a lot of heat if the edges are close to or above grade level. It can be cold and uncomfortable in the winter, and cool and damp in the summer. If the floor is unfinished, or you are planning to remodel anyway, a layer of extruded polyethylene, with 1\\u00d73 furring as a nail base, makes a good foundation for a plywood subfloor.\\n\\nSlab floors that are more than a few feet below grade don\\u2019t cause much heat loss, but they stay cool in the summer due to ground contact. These surfaces become magnets for condensation in humid weather. For this reason alone, a slab floor may well be worth insulating.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"11f4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"ea0\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4c7d\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4475\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"3ec3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Insulating Foundation Walls\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor05\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"55a8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you have a basement or a crawlspace, chances are pretty good that the walls are not insulated. If you have heating equipment in the space, it is probably not very cold in the winter, either\\u2014the thermal boundary is ambiguous. If you use it for anything besides storage, or if you are planning to finish all or part of the basement later, insulating the foundation walls rather than the floor above. I also recommend insulating the crawlspace walls instead of the floor joists. Remember that if you do insulate overhead, you will also need to insulate the furnace ducts or the heating pipes in the basement Most of the heat loss in a foundation wall occurs near the top of the wall, where it\\u2019s exposed to outdoor temperatures, but I recommend insulating the entire wall. The cost to insulate the entire wall is not much more than doing just the upper half. Also, if you insulate and finish the entire wall, you will have a much nicer finished space in the basement. 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style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3878\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"52b4\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7ebf\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Efficiency Losses in a Heating System<\\/a>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Duct Sealing<\\/a>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Furnaces<\\/a>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Heat Pumps<\\/a>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Electric-Resistance Heat<\\/a>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor06\\\">Hot-Water and Steam Boilers<\\/a>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor07\\\">Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment<\\/a>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5a1\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6edc\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"52ef\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"e34\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Efficiency Losses in a Heating System\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"329c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Not all the energy in the fuel you buy contributes to heating your house. Your heating system\\u2019s efficiency is the amount of useful heat you get as a percentage of purchased energy. Anything less than 100 percent represents waste, or lost efficiency. There are three kinds of heating system losses: combustion loss, cycling loss, and distribution loss. Combustion loss is simply the heat that goes up the chimney; it varies from about 30 percent to as little as 3 percent. That leaves a combustion efficiency between 70 percent and 97 percent; that is, the percentage of the fuel you buy that is converted to heat in the equipment. Combustion efficiency is mostly affected by equipment design; unless the burners are badly out of tune, it can\\u2019t be improved much unless you buy a new unit.\\n\\n Cycling losses occur when the heating equipment starts and stops. Each time the unit shuts off, some heat remains inside; some of that heat goes up the chimney. Cycling losses are affected by the equipment design, location, and controls; some efficiency improvements can be made if the controls are set poorly to begin with. Distribution losses occur when heat generated in the equipment gets out of the house before it reaches its destination. Distribution losses include duct air leaks and conductive losses through uninsulated ducts or pipes. Distribution losses can be significant: 5 percent to 30 percent, so in many homes a large improvement can be made.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6f08\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5a85\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1dfb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Comfort and energy use\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4f60\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Another fairly simple factor that affects heating-system performance is system balancing. Balancing refers to the temperature consistency from one room to the next. If one or more rooms are consistently too cold, people tend to set the thermostat high enough to be comfortable in those rooms. The rest of the house then overheats, using more energy. Balancing problems can be caused by thermal defects in the building, by problems in the distribution system, or by the thermostat location. Rooms that have air leaks, drafts, or missing insulation may lose heat faster than neighboring rooms, or they may just be uncomfortable. Thermal problems should be fixed before addressing the heating system. Once the building enclosure is properly treated, the distribution system can usually be adjusted for better balance.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6d24\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2bf0\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"13d5\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"31dc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air leaks in a duct system can have an enormous effect on your house. Duct leaks rob a furnace, heat pump, or central air system of energy\\u2014 sometimes close to half. Leaks can cause comfort problems, drive moisture flows, and sometimes even lead to dangerous back drafting of combustion equipment. Leaky basement ducts don\\u2019t usually waste much energy; sealing them is pretty easy, but there\\u2019s not much value to it. But ducts located in attics, garages, or vented crawlspaces can be a big energy problem. Sealing them can be the biggest opportunity for energy savings in many homes. Leaky ducts do more than let heat out. They also increase the air exchange in a house by 30 percent to 300 percent whenever the air handler is running. That is why furnaces have the reputation for drying out houses. Return leaks in a mechanical room or basement can backdraft a nearby water heater or even the furnace itself. Return leaks can also draw in radon gas, water vapor, subsoil pesticides, or airborne mold spores, distributing them throughout the house.<\\/p><p>Supply air leaking into an attic or enclosed cathedral ceiling cavity can deliver moisture at an accelerated rate to cold roof sheathing, causing condensation. If the ducts also carry central air-conditioning, return leaks can bring in outdoor humidity in the summer, reducing cooling efficiency, and leaks can draw outside air into building cavities, where moisture can lead to mold inside the house. Duct leaks are even more important than shell air leaks: Each hole and crack is under pressure from the furnace fan and leaks the hot air from your furnace (or cold air from your air conditioner).<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"582f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic1.png\",\"id\":2076},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"It\\u2019s important to peel back the insulation and vapor jacket to seal the duct connections. The black stains are from the air leaks.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"4896792\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Return ducts can be a bigger challenge. Return systems are frequently patched together using a combination of plywood, sheet metal, joist or wall cavities, and a lot of wishful thinking. Many HVAC installers don\\u2019t pay much attention to returns, focusing mostly on supplies that get the air to where it\\u2019s supposed to go. But well-sealed returns are important for furnace efficiency, occupant health and safety, and building durability. Fortunately, it\\u2019s not typically necessary to seal ducts that are buried inside interior wall and floor cavities. However, you do want to ensure that those cavities don\\u2019t leak to outside spaces; if they do, seal those leaks at the thermal boundary to keep the ducts and the indoor air inside.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"cab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct insulation\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7ee\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Ductwork that runs through unconditioned space should be insulated, if it is not already. Typically, supply ducts are insulated but often have weak spots at register boots and other major connections. Often, return ductwork is left uninsulated.<\\/p><p>Ducts should be insulated with vinyl-faced fiberglass wrap; R-6 is the minimum allowed by current residential codes; R-8 is required for supply ducts in attics. If possible, attic ducts should have higher R-values. Think about it: In winter, attic temperatures are nearly as cold as outdoors; in summer (for air-conditioning ducts), they are often much hotter than outdoors. If the ducts are close to the attic floor, cover them completely with loose-fill insulation. If that is not possible, try to find R-10 or higher duct wrap. Of course, seal all the duct connections tightly before insulating.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6e76\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6100\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"686f\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"474f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7f67\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnaces\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6380\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The furnace is by far the most common type of heating system in the country. In fact, it\\u2019s so common that many people use the word furnace to describe any type of heating equipment. Furnaces create heat by burning fuel, usually natural gas. Oil and liquefied petroleum (LP, or propane) gas are also used in areas where piped gas is unavailable. By contrast, heat pumps and electric furnaces use electricity to heat the air; they also use a duct system to deliver heat, but they are not furnaces and do not have a fuel supply, chimney, or vent pipe. Boilers burn gas or oil but create hot water or steam instead of warm air. Furnace efficiency can be improved by performing regular maintenance, improving airflow, adjusting control settings, and sealing leaky ductwork.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a91f30b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic2.jpg\",\"id\":2077},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"3182\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Regular maintenance\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a47\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Regular furnace maintenance is important to keep things running well, just as with any machine, but tune-ups and filter replacements don\\u2019t really save energy. Be sure to change the filter once or twice a year; more frequently is not much benefit because filters actually work better once some dust has built up on them. If the filter never gets dirty, however, then you may have a duct leak that is causing a loss of efficiency. Keeping registers open and free of obstructions may help your comfort, but this also won\\u2019t affect your energy bills noticeably.<\\/p><p>\\u00a0<\\/p><p>If you have a gas furnace, you should have it cleaned and tuned every two to four years. An oil burner should be tuned every year. Don\\u2019t wait until cold weather hits\\u2014that\\u2019s when the service companies are busy. You may get a better price if you get the tune-up in the spring.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"628b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic3.png\",\"id\":2078},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"Air filters should be replaced occasionally for best furnace performance. This pleated filter is more effective than the standard cheap fiberglass filter, and it doesn\\u2019t cost much more.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"1138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Low airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"135\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Low airflow can also reduce furnace efficiency. It can be caused by clogged air-conditioning coils, low fan speed settings, loose fan drive belts, undersized ductwork, or duct obstructions. Sometimes airflow is low to one room or section of the house, causing discomfort. Diagnosing low airflow is complex, but once identified, the fixes are usually fairly easy and inexpensive. These improvements are probably better left to a professional, but it\\u2019s good to be informed, because many technicians don\\u2019t bother checking airflow. If a service person is unable to explain in sensible terms what is happening in your system, you may want to get an opinion from another technician.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25e6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnace Tune-Up\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5fc9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"A professional tune-up for a gas furnace includes cleaning the burner and heat exchanger, checking the adjustment of air and fuel flow, cleaning and checking the heat exchanger for leaks, and testing draft pressure and carbon monoxide levels. The air-handler fan should be cleaned and lubricated as needed, once every two or three tune-ups. In addition, internal controls may be checked and adjusted if necessary. Don\\u2019t expect any real energy savings from a gas furnace tune-up; every two to four years is often enough. Oil burners are more finicky than gas burners. Most oil furnaces benefit from annual professional service; fuel filters, burner nozzles, electrodes, combustion chamber, heat exchanger, and flue pipe all need regular cleaning and adjustment. Checking heat exchangers and testing combustion efficiency are also useful. Try to find a technician who is knowledgeable, methodical, and thorough. If you have an oil furnace, the service technician might also recommend installing a smaller oil nozzle. This can reduce the heat output of the furnace, better matching it to the house and increasing operating efficiency slightly.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"9578043\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnace control settings\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9ea347a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The furnace controls can also have an impact on efficiency. The blower control, located above the heat exchanger, turns on the blower when it senses heat from the burner. The fan-on temperature should be set so the blower comes on between 90\\u00b0F and 105\\u00b0F; if it\\u2019s set too high, the burner will fire for a long time before the fan comes on, letting excess heat go up the chimney. If it\\u2019s set too low, the circulating air may feel uncomfortably cool.<\\/p><p>\\u00a0<\\/p><p>The fan-off temperature must be slightly lower than the fan-on temperature: between 85\\u00b0F and 100\\u00b0F. The lower it is set, the longer the fan will run at the end of the cycle when the thermostat turns off the burners, moving residual heat from the heat exchanger to your house. If your fan-on and fan-off temperatures are fixed (rather than adjustable) and set too high, the control can be replaced. Note that the temperature markings on adjustable controls are often poorly calibrated. Verify the actual fan-on and fan-off temperatures with a thermometer in the supply plenum.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5fdc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2ddf\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"20d1\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7e09\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6857\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat Pumps\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2ae9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Air-source heat pumps, popular in some parts of the country, are basically air conditioners that can work in reverse to deliver heat into the house in winter. Heat pumps provide heating and cooling in one machine, with one duct system and no combustion. Heat pumps are not subject to backdrafting, combustion air requirements, or some of the offcycle losses to which furnaces are prone. Because they use ducts to deliver warm air to the house, heat pump ducts in attics, garages, and crawlspaces must be sealed thoroughly and insulated well. Heat pumps are more prone to airflow problems than furnaces are, and improper refrigerant charging can have a negative impact on both heating and cooling efficiency. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"17ee\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Operating efficiency and resistance heating\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4720\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat pumps are rated using Heating System Performance Factor, or HSPF. An HSPF of 6.8 corresponds to an efficiency of 200 percent. Most new heat pumps vary from 7.3 to about 10 HSPF; the larger the number, the more efficient the unit. An HSPF of 10 is approximately equal to 290-percent efficient\\u2014for every kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity you buy, you get almost 3 kWh of heat delivered to your house. How can a heat pump generate more energy than it consumes? The difference is made up by heat energy absorbed from the outdoor air. That energy goes into the system; because it\\u2019s free, it\\u2019s not counted in the measurement of efficiency. Most heat pumps, by themselves, operate at reasonable efficiencies until outside air temperatures drop to about 35\\u00b0F to 40\\u00b0F. As the outdoor air gets colder, less heat is available, and the heat pump output drops off, even as the house needs more heat. So cold-weather performance is typically supplemented with electric-resistance backup heaters. This auxiliary heat costs about three times more per unit of heat than the compressor heating cycle. That may be fine in regions with long summers, mild winters, and relatively low electric rates, but it\\u2019s not in much of the North, where electricity is expensive and winters are cold. One fairly inexpensive way to reduce the use of electric-resistance heating is to install an outdoor cutout thermostat. For about $100 to $150 installed, this device locks out the supplemental electric heat when the outdoor air temperature is above 30\\u00b0F or 35\\u00b0F.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5977\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7a9c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat pumps are even more sensitive to airflow than furnaces are. Heat pumps need to move a larger volume of air, but installers who are used to working with furnaces sometimes skimp on duct sizing, leading to low-airflow problems. Unfortunately, checking the airflow of a heat pump is not as easy as checking that of a furnace. It can be done with special instruments or with a version of the temperature-rise method used with the electric-resistance backup heat. Don\\u2019t attempt to take these measurements unless you understand exactly what you are doing\\u2014if you aren\\u2019t sure, get a service technician to do it for you. For best efficiency, heat pump airflow should be 375 CFM to 425 CFM per ton of heating capacity. It should never be below 300 CFM per ton. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour, and equipment is typically rated in increments of 1\\u20442 ton, such as \\u201c24\\u201d (\\u00d71,000 Btu, or 2 tons), \\u201c30\\u201d (21\\u20442 tons), \\u201c36\\u201d (3 tons), etc.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a563a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Refrigerant charge\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1d32d86\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Older heat pumps are also finicky about refrigerant charge. Many heat pumps, even when serviced regularly, are either over- or undercharged, which has a negative impact on efficiency. Unfortunately, many service technicians don\\u2019t take the time to diagnose or correct those problems; they typically get the system working and move on to the next service call. To measure charge correctly, airflow must be in the recommended range, and few technicians test airflow as a matter of course. There are very specific ways to measure refrigerant charge during unit operation. Depending on the type of unit, the superheat or subcooling must be measured carefully, as it is for an air conditioner. There are also several automated systems on the market today that trained technicians can use to analyze heat pump operation. Newer high-efficiency models should also be properly charged, but they are more forgiving of varying charge conditions and their efficiency doesn\\u2019t suffer as much.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"10b1fd1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat pump service\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"e514960\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Like furnaces, heat pumps should be serviced regularly. Basic service can be done by anyone. Air filters should be replaced once or twice a year, as needed, and the outdoor coil should be kept free of snow and debris. Regular service calls\\u2014 typically every two to three years\\u2014should include testing the controls, cleaning the blower and both the indoor and the outdoor coils as needed, and checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines. To service your heat pump, try to find a contractor whose technicians are certified by North American Technician Excellence (NATE, see www.hvacradvice.com), or who demonstrates a commitment to attending manufacturers\\u2019 programs frequently. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing airflow problems, then carefully measuring and correcting refrigerant charge. Once that has been done, service technicians generally should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless the system performance drops off or there is other evidence that something is wrong. Refrigerant does not escape unless there is a leak.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"de2ded1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic4.png\",\"id\":2079},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"26e4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heatin_Pic5.png\",\"id\":2080},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"06769f8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ductless Heat Pumps\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5e85b4a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ductless heat pumps, often called minisplit heat pumps, are available in higher heating (and cooling) efficiencies than just about any other heat pumps on the market. The most efficient ones use an inverter-driven compressor, and variable speed fans that run continuously at a low speed to match the load in the house and minimize noise. One outdoor unit may be used with one or more indoor units that deliver heat and cooling to the house. Each indoor unit connects to the outdoor unit with a small bundle of pipes and wires that carry refrigerant and electricity, so there are no duct losses. Some models are designed for cold climate operation and maintain a high heating capacity and decent efficiency near 0\\u00b0F. A single mini-split makes a great heating and cooling system for a single-room addition or a deep energy remodel, or to offset electric resistance, oil, or LP gas heat.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"74415b8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ground-source heat pumps\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b12d517\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ground-source heat pumps (or GSHPs; often called geothermal heat pumps) extract heat from the earth or from underground water, rather than from outdoor air. Because temperatures are more stable underground, GSHP systems theoretically have much higher heating efficiencies than air-source heat pumps; rated Coefficient of Performance (COPs) range from about 3 to 5 (300 percent to 500 percent). There are two basic types of GSHP systems. Closed-loop (ground-loop) systems are usually more efficient but can be more expensive to install. Open-loop (groundwater or water source) systems usually cost less to install but can cost more to run, due to the power consumption of a large well pump that\\u2019s often required for these systems. A third type of GSHP, called direct exchange (DX), uses a copper pipe ground loop to circulate refrigerant underground. Their long-term reliability is less clear than that of closed loop water-based systems. Like air-source heat pumps, ground-source heat pumps can be cost-effective in regions with mild or hot climates and moderate electric rates, especially in areas where installation costs are modest. However, in regions with cold climates and high electric rates, they generally do not provide enough savings to justify the high installation cost. Ground-source heat pumps can also have very high cooling efficiencies. The heating capacity of GSHPs is much better in cold weather than that of conventional air-source heat pumps, so there is typically little or no need for supplemental electric heat. Closed-loop systems need little or no maintenance, but open-loop systems may have water-quality issues, filters that need replacing, and well pumps with shortened life expectancies.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"ad52eba\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ground-Source Heat Pump Efficiency\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"ccb4742\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Efficiency ratings for GSHPs come in three flavors: water loop, ground loop, and ground water. \\u201cWater loop\\u201d is used for commercial systems; \\u201cground loop\\u201d is used for closed loops; and \\u201cground water\\u201d for open loops. All of them rate the heating efficiency using a Coefficient of Performance, which is the ratio of heat out to electricity in: A COP of 3 represents a heating efficiency of 300 percent. There\\u2019s a trick to the GSHP performance ratings: You can\\u2019t achieve them in a real installation. The rating applies only to \\u201cthe box\\u201d itself and does not include most of the energy required to pump water or move air through the system. Depending on the installation, this can increase real operating costs between 20 percent and 100 percent (bringing a rated COP of 5 down to somewhere between 4 and 2.5). Despite marketing claims that GSHPs are \\u201crenewable\\u201d and \\u201cgreen,\\u201d they still run on electricity. Because electric generation and power lines are inefficient, a GSHP may actually be more expensive to run and generate more emissions than a high-efficiency natural gas furnace and AC system. GSHPs are, however, typically cheaper and cleaner than oil or LP gas heat. They are also quite expensive to install; my preference is to invest in a more efficient building enclosure.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6a56\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"dbf320a\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"9d22846\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"e535b22\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"871c427\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Electric-Resistance Heat\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor05\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b3e88de\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Most electric-resistance heating systems are simple electric baseboard heaters. There are also various types of radiant-heat systems (usually panels mounted on ceiling or walls, built into valances, or built into ceiling or wall-finish systems). Cheap to install but expensive to operate, electric-resistance heat operates on the same principle as that of a toaster or hot plate. An electric current passes through a wire element, heating it. Air passes through and is heated by fins in the baseboard. Electric-resistance heat is always 100-percent efficient; every kilowatt-hour of electricity that you pay for is converted to heat. The reason electric baseboards are expensive to operate is that electricity costs two to four times as much as natural gas. One advantage of electric heat is the ease with which rooms can be zoned. But with the high fuel cost and hidden emissions, it\\u2019s difficult to justify except in special situations, such as isolated rooms, or extremely mild climates like southern Florida or Hawaii. Because these systems are so simple, there is very little that can be done to improve their efficiency. Short of supplementing or completely replacing them, the best approach (as always) is to insulate and thoroughly seal the building to reduce heating loads.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25bca46\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic6.png\",\"id\":2085},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"An electric baseboard heater is its own distribution system and is usually precisely in the area where heat is desired, so there are no distribution losses like those found in ductwork.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"16865fd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Supplementing Electric Heat\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3574f96\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>A great way to reduce the cost of electric, LP or oil heat for a reasonable cost is with the installation of a variable speed ductless heat pump. The best systems are rated with an HSPF of 10 to 12, which means they use 65 percent to 70 percent less electricity per unit of delivered heat. Installing a single mini-split to heat a main living area can save 30 percent to 50 percent of a home\\u2019s heating bill (leaving the existing heat for remote rooms in cold weather), at an installed cost of $3,000 to $4,000. Ductless heat pumps also provide air-conditioning much more efficiently than do window units.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a34b211\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7c98\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1456\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1c64\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"5a38\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Hot-Water and Steam Boilers\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor06\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"654a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Boilers, an old standby in the Northeast, are becoming more popular around the country with the advent of radiant, hydro-air, and hybrid systems. Instead of heating air, a boiler heats water. The classic boiler system uses hydronic distribution. Water is heated by the boiler and pumped through pipes to hot-water radiators or baseboard fin-tube convectors to heat the house. Some older systems use a boiler to make steam, which expands to fill steam radiators without the need for a circulator pump. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"10abfe8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basic maintenance\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"387842d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Boiler maintenance is similar to that of a gas or oil furnace, but there is no blower fan to clean. Oil boilers should be serviced once a year, whereas gas boilers should be serviced every two to four years. Any swishing or gurgling sounds that you hear in the radiators indicate air trapped in the system, which reduces heat-exchange efficiency. A service technician can bleed out the air and show you how to do it if it is needed frequently. Occasionally, bleed valves may need to be installed or replaced. The technician should check the hydronic system pressure and expansion tank; the smallest leak anywhere in the system should be repaired immediately to prevent corrosion-causing oxygen from being brought in via makeup water connections.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a3b52bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Boiler controls and upgrades\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"8d5ab32\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"A typical hot-water boiler operates throughout the winter with a water temperature determined by the low-limit setting, a thermostatic switch that senses the water temperature inside the boiler and shuts off the burner when the water is hot enough. Standard boiler controls maintain full boiler temperature throughout the year, which is inefficient but necessary if a tankless coil water heater heats the domestic hot water. In the absence of a tankless coil, efficient boiler controls have a \\u201ccold start\\u201d feature that heats the boiler water only when it\\u2019s needed, and a \\u201cpurge\\u201d control that runs the circulating pump for a few minutes after the boiler shuts off, to extract any heat that remains inside. These controls, often standard or optional on new, high-efficiency models, can also be retrofitted to existing boilers\\u2014but you have to be careful. Cold-start boilers must be protected from condensing on start-up, which may take some extra piping and a thermic valve (made by DanfossR or Termovar) to maintain adequate return-water temperature. Many newer boilers designed for cold starting have this protection built in.\\n\\nAnother improvement for older boilers that don\\u2019t have good controls is a mechanical vent damper. This device closes off the flue pipe after the burner shuts off, stopping the flow of heat through the heat exchanger and up the chimney. It costs $125 to $350 installed. Don\\u2019t use a gravity-actuated vent damper that depends on the heat from the burner to stay open; they are much more likely to malfunction.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"c6c041c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Steam boilers\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"14ff0fc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Steam boilers are very different from hot water boilers. Steam systems were popular in the early 20th century, and many of them are still in service in older homes. Instead of relying on pumps to circulate hot water, steam boilers boil water to create steam. The steam naturally expands to fill all the pipes and radiators in the system, distributing heat throughout the house. Although steam-heat distribution is simple and reliable, steam boilers have a number of unique maintenance and efficiency issues. Most residential steam systems are one-pipe systems. When the thermostat calls for heat, the boiler fires and steam begins expanding to fill the system. As the steam expands, it displaces air contained in the pipes and radiators, and that air must be allowed to escape through air vents typically located on the side of each radiator. Once the steam reaches the radiator, the air vent senses the heat and closes, keeping the steam inside. As the steam emits heat through the radiator, it condenses to water and flows back via gravity through the same pipes to the boiler.\\n\\nAir-venting systems that aren\\u2019t working properly can lead to uneven heating, large temperature fluctuations, and discomfort. A tune-up can increase energy efficiency and comfort dramatically. If the air vents are too small, if there are not enough of them, or if they are clogged with mineral deposits, air gets trapped in the system, and the steam cannot reach its destination. Having a professional replace malfunctioning air vents, add extra vents to radiators, or add special high-volume air vents to large central supply pipes can improve steam-system efficiency by quickly getting the heat where it is needed. Thermostatically controlled vents can reduce the rate of steam delivery to some rooms, reducing overheating and improving overall comfort.\\n\\nA common problem with steam systems is too much pressure. The boiler pressure controls should be set just high enough so that the boiler shuts down just as each radiator fills with steam. Too much steam pressure increases the boiler\\u2019s cycling losses and leads to overheating. That can particularly be a problem if the building envelope\\u2019s efficiency is improved dramatically and\\/or some radiators are removed during remodeling. Timed-cycle controllers vary the boiler cycle length to match the outdoor temperature, further improving the system\\u2019s efficiency.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"705f6bb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"a5d58e6\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"962cc36\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4f84b4b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"b626660\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor07\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"cade1ab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Replacing a heating system with a newer, more efficient system is expensive, so it will typically have a long payback. However, if you have to replace a broken furnace or boiler, it is almost always cost-effective to select a high-efficiency system. However efficient (or inefficient) a house shell is, replacing a furnace from the mid-1980s or earlier with a 95-percent-efficient unit will save between 20 percent and 25 percent of the heating bill. Replacing an old boiler can save even more. On the other hand, if you have a 15-year-old unit that\\u2019s rated between 80-percent and 85-percent efficient, the savings will be much smaller. It\\u2019s probably better to spend your money on other efficiency projects. Finally, if you are planning a series of efficiency improvements to the house, it can be a good idea to complete them before upgrading equipment\\u2014you may be able to save some money by installing a smaller unit. If your existing heating system is functional but appears to be on its last legs, replacing it early can help avoid a big surprise. Deciding, rather than being forced, to replace a system reduces the panic factor and allows for a more reasoned choice. It may even reduce the cost a bit, because it won\\u2019t be an emergency call.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7861759\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Efficiency ratings\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9f83449\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>All new boilers and furnaces have standardized efficiency ratings, just like the gas-mileage ratings on automobiles. When selecting equipment, look for the highest efficiency ratings. Furnaces and boilers use Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE), which accounts for burner efficiency, pilot fuel, and off-cycle losses. New gas furnaces and boilers have AFUEs of 80 per-cent to 97 percent. AFUE ratings are available from manufacturers or at <a href=\\\"http:\\/\\/www.ahridirectory.org\\\">www.ahridirectory.org<\\/a>. Air-source heat pumps are rated using HSPF; GSHPs are rated using COP. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and Department of Energy (DOE) maintain a listing of high-efficiency equipment on their Energy Star website (<a href=\\\"http:\\/\\/www.energystar.gov\\/\\\">www.energystar.gov\\/<\\/a> products); always look for the Energy Star label, which indicates that the equipment meets certain above-minimum efficiency standards set by the government. Remember that the ratings apply to only the equipment. Installation problems, improper maintenance, and distribution problems (such as duct leakage) can reduce performance dramatically. Also remember that there are many products that exceed the Energy Star minimum standards; it\\u2019s still worth shopping for the highest-efficiency unit you can find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"432bc52\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic7.png\",\"id\":2089},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"The yellow Energy Guide label indicates the efficiency rating of new equipment and provides a comparison among similar 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:\"22a5\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"background_background\":\"gradient\",\"margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":0,\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":0,\"isLinked\":true},\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"46cc\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1a9a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"<p>Heating and Cooling Systems<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3878\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"52b4\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7ebf\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Efficiency Losses in a Heating System<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Duct Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Furnaces<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Heat Pumps<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Electric-Resistance Heat<\\/a>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Hot-Water and Steam Boilers<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5a1\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6edc\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"52ef\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"e34\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Efficiency Losses in a Heating System\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"329c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Not all the energy in the fuel you buy contributes to heating your house. Your heating system\\u2019s efficiency is the amount of useful heat you get as a percentage of purchased energy. Anything less than 100 percent represents waste, or lost efficiency. There are three kinds of heating system losses: combustion loss, cycling loss, and distribution loss. Combustion loss is simply the heat that goes up the chimney; it varies from about 30 percent to as little as 3 percent. That leaves a combustion efficiency between 70 percent and 97 percent; that is, the percentage of the fuel you buy that is converted to heat in the equipment. Combustion efficiency is mostly affected by equipment design; unless the burners are badly out of tune, it can\\u2019t be improved much unless you buy a new unit.\\n\\n Cycling losses occur when the heating equipment starts and stops. Each time the unit shuts off, some heat remains inside; some of that heat goes up the chimney. Cycling losses are affected by the equipment design, location, and controls; some efficiency improvements can be made if the controls are set poorly to begin with. Distribution losses occur when heat generated in the equipment gets out of the house before it reaches its destination. Distribution losses include duct air leaks and conductive losses through uninsulated ducts or pipes. Distribution losses can be significant: 5 percent to 30 percent, so in many homes a large improvement can be made.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6f08\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5a85\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1dfb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Comfort and energy use\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4f60\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Another fairly simple factor that affects heating-system performance is system balancing. Balancing refers to the temperature consistency from one room to the next. If one or more rooms are consistently too cold, people tend to set the thermostat high enough to be comfortable in those rooms. The rest of the house then overheats, using more energy. Balancing problems can be caused by thermal defects in the building, by problems in the distribution system, or by the thermostat location. Rooms that have air leaks, drafts, or missing insulation may lose heat faster than neighboring rooms, or they may just be uncomfortable. Thermal problems should be fixed before addressing the heating system. Once the building enclosure is properly treated, the distribution system can usually be adjusted for better balance.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6d24\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2bf0\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"13d5\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"31dc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air leaks in a duct system can have an enormous effect on your house. 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Return leaks can also draw in radon gas, water vapor, subsoil pesticides, or airborne mold spores, distributing them throughout the house.<\\/p><p>Supply air leaking into an attic or enclosed cathedral ceiling cavity can deliver moisture at an accelerated rate to cold roof sheathing, causing condensation. If the ducts also carry central air-conditioning, return leaks can bring in outdoor humidity in the summer, reducing cooling efficiency, and leaks can draw outside air into building cavities, where moisture can lead to mold inside the house. Duct leaks are even more important than shell air leaks: Each hole and crack is under pressure from the furnace fan and leaks the hot air from your furnace (or cold air from your air conditioner).<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"582f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic1.png\",\"id\":2076},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"It\\u2019s important to peel back the insulation and vapor jacket to seal the duct connections. 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However, you do want to ensure that those cavities don\\u2019t leak to outside spaces; if they do, seal those leaks at the thermal boundary to keep the ducts and the indoor air inside.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"cab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct insulation\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7ee\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Ductwork that runs through unconditioned space should be insulated, if it is not already. Typically, supply ducts are insulated but often have weak spots at register boots and other major connections. Often, return ductwork is left uninsulated.<\\/p><p>Ducts should be insulated with vinyl-faced fiberglass wrap; R-6 is the minimum allowed by current residential codes; R-8 is required for supply ducts in attics. If possible, attic ducts should have higher R-values. Think about it: In winter, attic temperatures are nearly as cold as outdoors; in summer (for air-conditioning ducts), they are often much hotter than outdoors. If the ducts are close to the attic floor, cover them completely with loose-fill insulation. If that is not possible, try to find R-10 or higher duct wrap. 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In fact, it\\u2019s so common that many people use the word furnace to describe any type of heating equipment. Furnaces create heat by burning fuel, usually natural gas. Oil and liquefied petroleum (LP, or propane) gas are also used in areas where piped gas is unavailable. By contrast, heat pumps and electric furnaces use electricity to heat the air; they also use a duct system to deliver heat, but they are not furnaces and do not have a fuel supply, chimney, or vent pipe. Boilers burn gas or oil but create hot water or steam instead of warm air. Furnace efficiency can be improved by performing regular maintenance, improving airflow, adjusting control settings, and sealing leaky ductwork.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a91f30b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic2.jpg\",\"id\":2077},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"3182\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Regular maintenance\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a47\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Regular furnace maintenance is important to keep things running well, just as with any machine, but tune-ups and filter replacements don\\u2019t really save energy. Be sure to change the filter once or twice a year; more frequently is not much benefit because filters actually work better once some dust has built up on them. If the filter never gets dirty, however, then you may have a duct leak that is causing a loss of efficiency. Keeping registers open and free of obstructions may help your comfort, but this also won\\u2019t affect your energy bills noticeably.<\\/p><p>\\u00a0<\\/p><p>If you have a gas furnace, you should have it cleaned and tuned every two to four years. An oil burner should be tuned every year. Don\\u2019t wait until cold weather hits\\u2014that\\u2019s when the service companies are busy. You may get a better price if you get the tune-up in the spring.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"628b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic3.png\",\"id\":2078},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"Air filters should be replaced occasionally for best furnace performance. This pleated filter is more effective than the standard cheap fiberglass filter, and it doesn\\u2019t cost much more.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"1138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Low airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"135\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Low airflow can also reduce furnace efficiency. It can be caused by clogged air-conditioning coils, low fan speed settings, loose fan drive belts, undersized ductwork, or duct obstructions. Sometimes airflow is low to one room or section of the house, causing discomfort. Diagnosing low airflow is complex, but once identified, the fixes are usually fairly easy and inexpensive. These improvements are probably better left to a professional, but it\\u2019s good to be informed, because many technicians don\\u2019t bother checking airflow. If a service person is unable to explain in sensible terms what is happening in your system, you may want to get an opinion from another technician.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25e6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnace Tune-Up\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5fc9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"A professional tune-up for a gas furnace includes cleaning the burner and heat exchanger, checking the adjustment of air and fuel flow, cleaning and checking the heat exchanger for leaks, and testing draft pressure and carbon monoxide levels. The air-handler fan should be cleaned and lubricated as needed, once every two or three tune-ups. In addition, internal controls may be checked and adjusted if necessary. Don\\u2019t expect any real energy savings from a gas furnace tune-up; every two to four years is often enough. Oil burners are more finicky than gas burners. Most oil furnaces benefit from annual professional service; fuel filters, burner nozzles, electrodes, combustion chamber, heat exchanger, and flue pipe all need regular cleaning and adjustment. Checking heat exchangers and testing combustion efficiency are also useful. Try to find a technician who is knowledgeable, methodical, and thorough. If you have an oil furnace, the service technician might also recommend installing a smaller oil nozzle. This can reduce the heat output of the furnace, better matching it to the house and increasing operating efficiency slightly.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"9578043\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnace control settings\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9ea347a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The furnace controls can also have an impact on efficiency. The blower control, located above the heat exchanger, turns on the blower when it senses heat from the burner. The fan-on temperature should be set so the blower comes on between 90\\u00b0F and 105\\u00b0F; if it\\u2019s set too high, the burner will fire for a long time before the fan comes on, letting excess heat go up the chimney. If it\\u2019s set too low, the circulating air may feel uncomfortably cool.<\\/p><p>\\u00a0<\\/p><p>The fan-off temperature must be slightly lower than the fan-on temperature: between 85\\u00b0F and 100\\u00b0F. The lower it is set, the longer the fan will run at the end of the cycle when the thermostat turns off the burners, moving residual heat from the heat exchanger to your house. If your fan-on and fan-off temperatures are fixed (rather than adjustable) and set too high, the control can be replaced. Note that the temperature markings on adjustable controls are often poorly calibrated. Verify the actual fan-on and fan-off temperatures with a thermometer in the supply plenum.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5fdc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2ddf\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"20d1\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7e09\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6857\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat Pumps\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2ae9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Air-source heat pumps, popular in some parts of the country, are basically air conditioners that can work in reverse to deliver heat into the house in winter. Heat pumps provide heating and cooling in one machine, with one duct system and no combustion. Heat pumps are not subject to backdrafting, combustion air requirements, or some of the offcycle losses to which furnaces are prone. Because they use ducts to deliver warm air to the house, heat pump ducts in attics, garages, and crawlspaces must be sealed thoroughly and insulated well. Heat pumps are more prone to airflow problems than furnaces are, and improper refrigerant charging can have a negative impact on both heating and cooling efficiency. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"17ee\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Operating efficiency and resistance heating\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4720\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat pumps are rated using Heating System Performance Factor, or HSPF. An HSPF of 6.8 corresponds to an efficiency of 200 percent. Most new heat pumps vary from 7.3 to about 10 HSPF; the larger the number, the more efficient the unit. An HSPF of 10 is approximately equal to 290-percent efficient\\u2014for every kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity you buy, you get almost 3 kWh of heat delivered to your house. How can a heat pump generate more energy than it consumes? The difference is made up by heat energy absorbed from the outdoor air. That energy goes into the system; because it\\u2019s free, it\\u2019s not counted in the measurement of efficiency. Most heat pumps, by themselves, operate at reasonable efficiencies until outside air temperatures drop to about 35\\u00b0F to 40\\u00b0F. As the outdoor air gets colder, less heat is available, and the heat pump output drops off, even as the house needs more heat. So cold-weather performance is typically supplemented with electric-resistance backup heaters. This auxiliary heat costs about three times more per unit of heat than the compressor heating cycle. That may be fine in regions with long summers, mild winters, and relatively low electric rates, but it\\u2019s not in much of the North, where electricity is expensive and winters are cold. One fairly inexpensive way to reduce the use of electric-resistance heating is to install an outdoor cutout thermostat. For about $100 to $150 installed, this device locks out the supplemental electric heat when the outdoor air temperature is above 30\\u00b0F or 35\\u00b0F.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5977\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7a9c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat pumps are even more sensitive to airflow than furnaces are. Heat pumps need to move a larger volume of air, but installers who are used to working with furnaces sometimes skimp on duct sizing, leading to low-airflow problems. Unfortunately, checking the airflow of a heat pump is not as easy as checking that of a furnace. It can be done with special instruments or with a version of the temperature-rise method used with the electric-resistance backup heat. Don\\u2019t attempt to take these measurements unless you understand exactly what you are doing\\u2014if you aren\\u2019t sure, get a service technician to do it for you. For best efficiency, heat pump airflow should be 375 CFM to 425 CFM per ton of heating capacity. It should never be below 300 CFM per ton. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour, and equipment is typically rated in increments of 1\\u20442 ton, such as \\u201c24\\u201d (\\u00d71,000 Btu, or 2 tons), \\u201c30\\u201d (21\\u20442 tons), \\u201c36\\u201d (3 tons), etc.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a563a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Refrigerant charge\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1d32d86\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Older heat pumps are also finicky about refrigerant charge. Many heat pumps, even when serviced regularly, are either over- or undercharged, which has a negative impact on efficiency. Unfortunately, many service technicians don\\u2019t take the time to diagnose or correct those problems; they typically get the system working and move on to the next service call. To measure charge correctly, airflow must be in the recommended range, and few technicians test airflow as a matter of course. There are very specific ways to measure refrigerant charge during unit operation. Depending on the type of unit, the superheat or subcooling must be measured carefully, as it is for an air conditioner. There are also several automated systems on the market today that trained technicians can use to analyze heat pump operation. Newer high-efficiency models should also be properly charged, but they are more forgiving of varying charge conditions and their efficiency doesn\\u2019t suffer as much.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"10b1fd1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat pump service\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"e514960\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Like furnaces, heat pumps should be serviced regularly. Basic service can be done by anyone. Air filters should be replaced once or twice a year, as needed, and the outdoor coil should be kept free of snow and debris. Regular service calls\\u2014 typically every two to three years\\u2014should include testing the controls, cleaning the blower and both the indoor and the outdoor coils as needed, and checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines. To service your heat pump, try to find a contractor whose technicians are certified by North American Technician Excellence (NATE, see www.hvacradvice.com), or who demonstrates a commitment to attending manufacturers\\u2019 programs frequently. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing airflow problems, then carefully measuring and correcting refrigerant charge. Once that has been done, service technicians generally should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless the system performance drops off or there is other evidence that something is wrong. Refrigerant does not escape unless there is a leak.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"de2ded1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic4.png\",\"id\":2079},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"26e4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heatin_Pic5.png\",\"id\":2080},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"6a56\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7c98\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1456\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1c64\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"5a38\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor05\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"654a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don\\u2019t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal 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and Cooling Systems<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3878\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"52b4\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7ebf\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Efficiency Losses in a Heating System<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Duct Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Furnaces<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Heat Pumps<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Electric-Resistance Heat<\\/a>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Hot-Water and Steam Boilers<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5a1\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6edc\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"52ef\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"e34\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Efficiency Losses in a Heating System\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"329c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Not all the energy in the fuel you buy contributes to heating your house. Your heating system\\u2019s efficiency is the amount of useful heat you get as a percentage of purchased energy. Anything less than 100 percent represents waste, or lost efficiency. There are three kinds of heating system losses: combustion loss, cycling loss, and distribution loss. Combustion loss is simply the heat that goes up the chimney; it varies from about 30 percent to as little as 3 percent. That leaves a combustion efficiency between 70 percent and 97 percent; that is, the percentage of the fuel you buy that is converted to heat in the equipment. Combustion efficiency is mostly affected by equipment design; unless the burners are badly out of tune, it can\\u2019t be improved much unless you buy a new unit.\\n\\n Cycling losses occur when the heating equipment starts and stops. Each time the unit shuts off, some heat remains inside; some of that heat goes up the chimney. Cycling losses are affected by the equipment design, location, and controls; some efficiency improvements can be made if the controls are set poorly to begin with. Distribution losses occur when heat generated in the equipment gets out of the house before it reaches its destination. Distribution losses include duct air leaks and conductive losses through uninsulated ducts or pipes. Distribution losses can be significant: 5 percent to 30 percent, so in many homes a large improvement can be made.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6f08\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5a85\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1dfb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Comfort and energy use\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4f60\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Another fairly simple factor that affects heating-system performance is system balancing. Balancing refers to the temperature consistency from one room to the next. If one or more rooms are consistently too cold, people tend to set the thermostat high enough to be comfortable in those rooms. The rest of the house then overheats, using more energy. Balancing problems can be caused by thermal defects in the building, by problems in the distribution system, or by the thermostat location. Rooms that have air leaks, drafts, or missing insulation may lose heat faster than neighboring rooms, or they may just be uncomfortable. Thermal problems should be fixed before addressing the heating system. Once the building enclosure is properly treated, the distribution system can usually be adjusted for better balance.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6d24\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2bf0\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"13d5\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"31dc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air leaks in a duct system can have an enormous effect on your house. Duct leaks rob a furnace, heat pump, or central air system of energy\\u2014 sometimes close to half. Leaks can cause comfort problems, drive moisture flows, and sometimes even lead to dangerous back drafting of combustion equipment. Leaky basement ducts don\\u2019t usually waste much energy; sealing them is pretty easy, but there\\u2019s not much value to it. But ducts located in attics, garages, or vented crawlspaces can be a big energy problem. Sealing them can be the biggest opportunity for energy savings in many homes. Leaky ducts do more than let heat out. They also increase the air exchange in a house by 30 percent to 300 percent whenever the air handler is running. That is why furnaces have the reputation for drying out houses. Return leaks in a mechanical room or basement can backdraft a nearby water heater or even the furnace itself. Return leaks can also draw in radon gas, water vapor, subsoil pesticides, or airborne mold spores, distributing them throughout the house.<\\/p><p>Supply air leaking into an attic or enclosed cathedral ceiling cavity can deliver moisture at an accelerated rate to cold roof sheathing, causing condensation. If the ducts also carry central air-conditioning, return leaks can bring in outdoor humidity in the summer, reducing cooling efficiency, and leaks can draw outside air into building cavities, where moisture can lead to mold inside the house. Duct leaks are even more important than shell air leaks: Each hole and crack is under pressure from the furnace fan and leaks the hot air from your furnace (or cold air from your air conditioner).<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"582f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic1.png\",\"id\":2076},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"It\\u2019s important to peel back the insulation and vapor jacket to seal the duct connections. The black stains are from the air leaks.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"4896792\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Return ducts can be a bigger challenge. Return systems are frequently patched together using a combination of plywood, sheet metal, joist or wall cavities, and a lot of wishful thinking. Many HVAC installers don\\u2019t pay much attention to returns, focusing mostly on supplies that get the air to where it\\u2019s supposed to go. But well-sealed returns are important for furnace efficiency, occupant health and safety, and building durability. Fortunately, it\\u2019s not typically necessary to seal ducts that are buried inside interior wall and floor cavities. However, you do want to ensure that those cavities don\\u2019t leak to outside spaces; if they do, seal those leaks at the thermal boundary to keep the ducts and the indoor air inside.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"cab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct insulation\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7ee\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Ductwork that runs through unconditioned space should be insulated, if it is not already. Typically, supply ducts are insulated but often have weak spots at register boots and other major connections. Often, return ductwork is left uninsulated.<\\/p><p>Ducts should be insulated with vinyl-faced fiberglass wrap; R-6 is the minimum allowed by current residential codes; R-8 is required for supply ducts in attics. If possible, attic ducts should have higher R-values. Think about it: In winter, attic temperatures are nearly as cold as outdoors; in summer (for air-conditioning ducts), they are often much hotter than outdoors. If the ducts are close to the attic floor, cover them completely with loose-fill insulation. If that is not possible, try to find R-10 or higher duct wrap. Of course, seal all the duct connections tightly before insulating.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6e76\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6100\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"686f\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"474f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7f67\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnaces\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6380\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The furnace is by far the most common type of heating system in the country. In fact, it\\u2019s so common that many people use the word furnace to describe any type of heating equipment. Furnaces create heat by burning fuel, usually natural gas. Oil and liquefied petroleum (LP, or propane) gas are also used in areas where piped gas is unavailable. By contrast, heat pumps and electric furnaces use electricity to heat the air; they also use a duct system to deliver heat, but they are not furnaces and do not have a fuel supply, chimney, or vent pipe. Boilers burn gas or oil but create hot water or steam instead of warm air. Furnace efficiency can be improved by performing regular maintenance, improving airflow, adjusting control settings, and sealing leaky ductwork.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a91f30b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic2.jpg\",\"id\":2077},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"3182\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Regular maintenance\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a47\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Regular furnace maintenance is important to keep things running well, just as with any machine, but tune-ups and filter replacements don\\u2019t really save energy. Be sure to change the filter once or twice a year; more frequently is not much benefit because filters actually work better once some dust has built up on them. If the filter never gets dirty, however, then you may have a duct leak that is causing a loss of efficiency. Keeping registers open and free of obstructions may help your comfort, but this also won\\u2019t affect your energy bills noticeably.<\\/p><p>\\u00a0<\\/p><p>If you have a gas furnace, you should have it cleaned and tuned every two to four years. An oil burner should be tuned every year. Don\\u2019t wait until cold weather hits\\u2014that\\u2019s when the service companies are busy. You may get a better price if you get the tune-up in the spring.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"628b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic3.png\",\"id\":2078},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"Air filters should be replaced occasionally for best furnace performance. This pleated filter is more effective than the standard cheap fiberglass filter, and it doesn\\u2019t cost much more.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"1138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Low airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"135\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Low airflow can also reduce furnace efficiency. It can be caused by clogged air-conditioning coils, low fan speed settings, loose fan drive belts, undersized ductwork, or duct obstructions. Sometimes airflow is low to one room or section of the house, causing discomfort. Diagnosing low airflow is complex, but once identified, the fixes are usually fairly easy and inexpensive. These improvements are probably better left to a professional, but it\\u2019s good to be informed, because many technicians don\\u2019t bother checking airflow. If a service person is unable to explain in sensible terms what is happening in your system, you may want to get an opinion from another technician.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25e6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnace Tune-Up\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5fc9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"A professional tune-up for a gas furnace includes cleaning the burner and heat exchanger, checking the adjustment of air and fuel flow, cleaning and checking the heat exchanger for leaks, and testing draft pressure and carbon monoxide levels. The air-handler fan should be cleaned and lubricated as needed, once every two or three tune-ups. In addition, internal controls may be checked and adjusted if necessary. Don\\u2019t expect any real energy savings from a gas furnace tune-up; every two to four years is often enough. Oil burners are more finicky than gas burners. Most oil furnaces benefit from annual professional service; fuel filters, burner nozzles, electrodes, combustion chamber, heat exchanger, and flue pipe all need regular cleaning and adjustment. Checking heat exchangers and testing combustion efficiency are also useful. Try to find a technician who is knowledgeable, methodical, and thorough. If you have an oil furnace, the service technician might also recommend installing a smaller oil nozzle. This can reduce the heat output of the furnace, better matching it to the house and increasing operating efficiency slightly.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"9578043\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnace control settings\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9ea347a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The furnace controls can also have an impact on efficiency. The blower control, located above the heat exchanger, turns on the blower when it senses heat from the burner. The fan-on temperature should be set so the blower comes on between 90\\u00b0F and 105\\u00b0F; if it\\u2019s set too high, the burner will fire for a long time before the fan comes on, letting excess heat go up the chimney. If it\\u2019s set too low, the circulating air may feel uncomfortably cool.<\\/p><p>\\u00a0<\\/p><p>The fan-off temperature must be slightly lower than the fan-on temperature: between 85\\u00b0F and 100\\u00b0F. The lower it is set, the longer the fan will run at the end of the cycle when the thermostat turns off the burners, moving residual heat from the heat exchanger to your house. If your fan-on and fan-off temperatures are fixed (rather than adjustable) and set too high, the control can be replaced. Note that the temperature markings on adjustable controls are often poorly calibrated. Verify the actual fan-on and fan-off temperatures with a thermometer in the supply plenum.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5fdc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2ddf\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"20d1\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7e09\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6857\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat Pumps\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2ae9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Air-source heat pumps, popular in some parts of the country, are basically air conditioners that can work in reverse to deliver heat into the house in winter. Heat pumps provide heating and cooling in one machine, with one duct system and no combustion. Heat pumps are not subject to backdrafting, combustion air requirements, or some of the offcycle losses to which furnaces are prone. Because they use ducts to deliver warm air to the house, heat pump ducts in attics, garages, and crawlspaces must be sealed thoroughly and insulated well. Heat pumps are more prone to airflow problems than furnaces are, and improper refrigerant charging can have a negative impact on both heating and cooling efficiency. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"17ee\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Operating efficiency and resistance heating\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4720\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat pumps are rated using Heating System Performance Factor, or HSPF. An HSPF of 6.8 corresponds to an efficiency of 200 percent. Most new heat pumps vary from 7.3 to about 10 HSPF; the larger the number, the more efficient the unit. An HSPF of 10 is approximately equal to 290-percent efficient\\u2014for every kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity you buy, you get almost 3 kWh of heat delivered to your house. How can a heat pump generate more energy than it consumes? The difference is made up by heat energy absorbed from the outdoor air. That energy goes into the system; because it\\u2019s free, it\\u2019s not counted in the measurement of efficiency. Most heat pumps, by themselves, operate at reasonable efficiencies until outside air temperatures drop to about 35\\u00b0F to 40\\u00b0F. As the outdoor air gets colder, less heat is available, and the heat pump output drops off, even as the house needs more heat. So cold-weather performance is typically supplemented with electric-resistance backup heaters. This auxiliary heat costs about three times more per unit of heat than the compressor heating cycle. That may be fine in regions with long summers, mild winters, and relatively low electric rates, but it\\u2019s not in much of the North, where electricity is expensive and winters are cold. One fairly inexpensive way to reduce the use of electric-resistance heating is to install an outdoor cutout thermostat. For about $100 to $150 installed, this device locks out the supplemental electric heat when the outdoor air temperature is above 30\\u00b0F or 35\\u00b0F.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5977\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7a9c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat pumps are even more sensitive to airflow than furnaces are. Heat pumps need to move a larger volume of air, but installers who are used to working with furnaces sometimes skimp on duct sizing, leading to low-airflow problems. Unfortunately, checking the airflow of a heat pump is not as easy as checking that of a furnace. It can be done with special instruments or with a version of the temperature-rise method used with the electric-resistance backup heat. Don\\u2019t attempt to take these measurements unless you understand exactly what you are doing\\u2014if you aren\\u2019t sure, get a service technician to do it for you. For best efficiency, heat pump airflow should be 375 CFM to 425 CFM per ton of heating capacity. It should never be below 300 CFM per ton. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour, and equipment is typically rated in increments of 1\\u20442 ton, such as \\u201c24\\u201d (\\u00d71,000 Btu, or 2 tons), \\u201c30\\u201d (21\\u20442 tons), \\u201c36\\u201d (3 tons), etc.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a563a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Refrigerant charge\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1d32d86\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Older heat pumps are also finicky about refrigerant charge. Many heat pumps, even when serviced regularly, are either over- or undercharged, which has a negative impact on efficiency. Unfortunately, many service technicians don\\u2019t take the time to diagnose or correct those problems; they typically get the system working and move on to the next service call. To measure charge correctly, airflow must be in the recommended range, and few technicians test airflow as a matter of course. There are very specific ways to measure refrigerant charge during unit operation. Depending on the type of unit, the superheat or subcooling must be measured carefully, as it is for an air conditioner. There are also several automated systems on the market today that trained technicians can use to analyze heat pump operation. Newer high-efficiency models should also be properly charged, but they are more forgiving of varying charge conditions and their efficiency doesn\\u2019t suffer as much.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"10b1fd1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat pump service\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"e514960\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Like furnaces, heat pumps should be serviced regularly. Basic service can be done by anyone. Air filters should be replaced once or twice a year, as needed, and the outdoor coil should be kept free of snow and debris. Regular service calls\\u2014 typically every two to three years\\u2014should include testing the controls, cleaning the blower and both the indoor and the outdoor coils as needed, and checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines. To service your heat pump, try to find a contractor whose technicians are certified by North American Technician Excellence (NATE, see www.hvacradvice.com), or who demonstrates a commitment to attending manufacturers\\u2019 programs frequently. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing airflow problems, then carefully measuring and correcting refrigerant charge. Once that has been done, service technicians generally should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless the system performance drops off or there is other evidence that something is wrong. Refrigerant does not escape unless there is a leak.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"de2ded1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic4.png\",\"id\":2079},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"26e4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heatin_Pic5.png\",\"id\":2080},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"06769f8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ductless Heat Pumps\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5e85b4a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ductless heat pumps, often called minisplit heat pumps, are available in higher heating (and cooling) efficiencies than just about any other heat pumps on the market. The most efficient ones use an inverter-driven compressor, and variable speed fans that run continuously at a low speed to match the load in the house and minimize noise. One outdoor unit may be used with one or more indoor units that deliver heat and cooling to the house. Each indoor unit connects to the outdoor unit with a small bundle of pipes and wires that carry refrigerant and electricity, so there are no duct losses. Some models are designed for cold climate operation and maintain a high heating capacity and decent efficiency near 0\\u00b0F. A single mini-split makes a great heating and cooling system for a single-room addition or a deep energy remodel, or to offset electric resistance, oil, or LP gas heat.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"74415b8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ground-source heat pumps\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b12d517\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ground-source heat pumps (or GSHPs; often called geothermal heat pumps) extract heat from the earth or from underground water, rather than from outdoor air. Because temperatures are more stable underground, GSHP systems theoretically have much higher heating efficiencies than air-source heat pumps; rated Coefficient of Performance (COPs) range from about 3 to 5 (300 percent to 500 percent). There are two basic types of GSHP systems. Closed-loop (ground-loop) systems are usually more efficient but can be more expensive to install. Open-loop (groundwater or water source) systems usually cost less to install but can cost more to run, due to the power consumption of a large well pump that\\u2019s often required for these systems. A third type of GSHP, called direct exchange (DX), uses a copper pipe ground loop to circulate refrigerant underground. Their long-term reliability is less clear than that of closed loop water-based systems. Like air-source heat pumps, ground-source heat pumps can be cost-effective in regions with mild or hot climates and moderate electric rates, especially in areas where installation costs are modest. However, in regions with cold climates and high electric rates, they generally do not provide enough savings to justify the high installation cost. Ground-source heat pumps can also have very high cooling efficiencies. The heating capacity of GSHPs is much better in cold weather than that of conventional air-source heat pumps, so there is typically little or no need for supplemental electric heat. Closed-loop systems need little or no maintenance, but open-loop systems may have water-quality issues, filters that need replacing, and well pumps with shortened life expectancies.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6a56\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7c98\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1456\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1c64\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"5a38\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor05\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"654a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don\\u2019t. 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and Cooling Systems<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3878\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"52b4\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7ebf\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Efficiency Losses in a Heating System<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Duct Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Furnaces<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Heat Pumps<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Electric-Resistance Heat<\\/a>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Hot-Water and Steam Boilers<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5a1\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6edc\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"52ef\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"e34\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Efficiency Losses in a Heating System\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"329c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Not all the energy in the fuel you buy contributes to heating your house. Your heating system\\u2019s efficiency is the amount of useful heat you get as a percentage of purchased energy. Anything less than 100 percent represents waste, or lost efficiency. There are three kinds of heating system losses: combustion loss, cycling loss, and distribution loss. Combustion loss is simply the heat that goes up the chimney; it varies from about 30 percent to as little as 3 percent. That leaves a combustion efficiency between 70 percent and 97 percent; that is, the percentage of the fuel you buy that is converted to heat in the equipment. Combustion efficiency is mostly affected by equipment design; unless the burners are badly out of tune, it can\\u2019t be improved much unless you buy a new unit.\\n\\n Cycling losses occur when the heating equipment starts and stops. Each time the unit shuts off, some heat remains inside; some of that heat goes up the chimney. Cycling losses are affected by the equipment design, location, and controls; some efficiency improvements can be made if the controls are set poorly to begin with. Distribution losses occur when heat generated in the equipment gets out of the house before it reaches its destination. Distribution losses include duct air leaks and conductive losses through uninsulated ducts or pipes. Distribution losses can be significant: 5 percent to 30 percent, so in many homes a large improvement can be made.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6f08\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5a85\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1dfb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Comfort and energy use\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4f60\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Another fairly simple factor that affects heating-system performance is system balancing. Balancing refers to the temperature consistency from one room to the next. If one or more rooms are consistently too cold, people tend to set the thermostat high enough to be comfortable in those rooms. The rest of the house then overheats, using more energy. Balancing problems can be caused by thermal defects in the building, by problems in the distribution system, or by the thermostat location. Rooms that have air leaks, drafts, or missing insulation may lose heat faster than neighboring rooms, or they may just be uncomfortable. Thermal problems should be fixed before addressing the heating system. Once the building enclosure is properly treated, the distribution system can usually be adjusted for better balance.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6d24\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2bf0\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"13d5\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"31dc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air leaks in a duct system can have an enormous effect on your house. Duct leaks rob a furnace, heat pump, or central air system of energy\\u2014 sometimes close to half. Leaks can cause comfort problems, drive moisture flows, and sometimes even lead to dangerous back drafting of combustion equipment. Leaky basement ducts don\\u2019t usually waste much energy; sealing them is pretty easy, but there\\u2019s not much value to it. But ducts located in attics, garages, or vented crawlspaces can be a big energy problem. Sealing them can be the biggest opportunity for energy savings in many homes. Leaky ducts do more than let heat out. They also increase the air exchange in a house by 30 percent to 300 percent whenever the air handler is running. That is why furnaces have the reputation for drying out houses. Return leaks in a mechanical room or basement can backdraft a nearby water heater or even the furnace itself. Return leaks can also draw in radon gas, water vapor, subsoil pesticides, or airborne mold spores, distributing them throughout the house.<\\/p><p>Supply air leaking into an attic or enclosed cathedral ceiling cavity can deliver moisture at an accelerated rate to cold roof sheathing, causing condensation. If the ducts also carry central air-conditioning, return leaks can bring in outdoor humidity in the summer, reducing cooling efficiency, and leaks can draw outside air into building cavities, where moisture can lead to mold inside the house. Duct leaks are even more important than shell air leaks: Each hole and crack is under pressure from the furnace fan and leaks the hot air from your furnace (or cold air from your air conditioner).<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"582f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic1.png\",\"id\":2076},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"It\\u2019s important to peel back the insulation and vapor jacket to seal the duct connections. The black stains are from the air leaks.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"4896792\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Return ducts can be a bigger challenge. Return systems are frequently patched together using a combination of plywood, sheet metal, joist or wall cavities, and a lot of wishful thinking. Many HVAC installers don\\u2019t pay much attention to returns, focusing mostly on supplies that get the air to where it\\u2019s supposed to go. But well-sealed returns are important for furnace efficiency, occupant health and safety, and building durability. Fortunately, it\\u2019s not typically necessary to seal ducts that are buried inside interior wall and floor cavities. However, you do want to ensure that those cavities don\\u2019t leak to outside spaces; if they do, seal those leaks at the thermal boundary to keep the ducts and the indoor air inside.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"cab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct insulation\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7ee\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Ductwork that runs through unconditioned space should be insulated, if it is not already. Typically, supply ducts are insulated but often have weak spots at register boots and other major connections. Often, return ductwork is left uninsulated.<\\/p><p>Ducts should be insulated with vinyl-faced fiberglass wrap; R-6 is the minimum allowed by current residential codes; R-8 is required for supply ducts in attics. If possible, attic ducts should have higher R-values. Think about it: In winter, attic temperatures are nearly as cold as outdoors; in summer (for air-conditioning ducts), they are often much hotter than outdoors. If the ducts are close to the attic floor, cover them completely with loose-fill insulation. If that is not possible, try to find R-10 or higher duct wrap. Of course, seal all the duct connections tightly before insulating.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6e76\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6100\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"686f\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"474f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7f67\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnaces\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6380\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The furnace is by far the most common type of heating system in the country. In fact, it\\u2019s so common that many people use the word furnace to describe any type of heating equipment. Furnaces create heat by burning fuel, usually natural gas. Oil and liquefied petroleum (LP, or propane) gas are also used in areas where piped gas is unavailable. By contrast, heat pumps and electric furnaces use electricity to heat the air; they also use a duct system to deliver heat, but they are not furnaces and do not have a fuel supply, chimney, or vent pipe. Boilers burn gas or oil but create hot water or steam instead of warm air. Furnace efficiency can be improved by performing regular maintenance, improving airflow, adjusting control settings, and sealing leaky ductwork.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a91f30b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic2.jpg\",\"id\":2077},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"3182\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Regular maintenance\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a47\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Regular furnace maintenance is important to keep things running well, just as with any machine, but tune-ups and filter replacements don\\u2019t really save energy. Be sure to change the filter once or twice a year; more frequently is not much benefit because filters actually work better once some dust has built up on them. If the filter never gets dirty, however, then you may have a duct leak that is causing a loss of efficiency. Keeping registers open and free of obstructions may help your comfort, but this also won\\u2019t affect your energy bills noticeably.<\\/p><p>\\u00a0<\\/p><p>If you have a gas furnace, you should have it cleaned and tuned every two to four years. An oil burner should be tuned every year. Don\\u2019t wait until cold weather hits\\u2014that\\u2019s when the service companies are busy. You may get a better price if you get the tune-up in the spring.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"628b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic3.png\",\"id\":2078},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"Air filters should be replaced occasionally for best furnace performance. This pleated filter is more effective than the standard cheap fiberglass filter, and it doesn\\u2019t cost much more.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"1138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Low airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"135\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Low airflow can also reduce furnace efficiency. It can be caused by clogged air-conditioning coils, low fan speed settings, loose fan drive belts, undersized ductwork, or duct obstructions. Sometimes airflow is low to one room or section of the house, causing discomfort. Diagnosing low airflow is complex, but once identified, the fixes are usually fairly easy and inexpensive. These improvements are probably better left to a professional, but it\\u2019s good to be informed, because many technicians don\\u2019t bother checking airflow. If a service person is unable to explain in sensible terms what is happening in your system, you may want to get an opinion from another technician.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25e6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnace Tune-Up\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5fc9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"A professional tune-up for a gas furnace includes cleaning the burner and heat exchanger, checking the adjustment of air and fuel flow, cleaning and checking the heat exchanger for leaks, and testing draft pressure and carbon monoxide levels. The air-handler fan should be cleaned and lubricated as needed, once every two or three tune-ups. In addition, internal controls may be checked and adjusted if necessary. Don\\u2019t expect any real energy savings from a gas furnace tune-up; every two to four years is often enough. Oil burners are more finicky than gas burners. Most oil furnaces benefit from annual professional service; fuel filters, burner nozzles, electrodes, combustion chamber, heat exchanger, and flue pipe all need regular cleaning and adjustment. Checking heat exchangers and testing combustion efficiency are also useful. Try to find a technician who is knowledgeable, methodical, and thorough. If you have an oil furnace, the service technician might also recommend installing a smaller oil nozzle. This can reduce the heat output of the furnace, better matching it to the house and increasing operating efficiency slightly.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"9578043\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnace control settings\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9ea347a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The furnace controls can also have an impact on efficiency. The blower control, located above the heat exchanger, turns on the blower when it senses heat from the burner. The fan-on temperature should be set so the blower comes on between 90\\u00b0F and 105\\u00b0F; if it\\u2019s set too high, the burner will fire for a long time before the fan comes on, letting excess heat go up the chimney. If it\\u2019s set too low, the circulating air may feel uncomfortably cool.<\\/p><p>\\u00a0<\\/p><p>The fan-off temperature must be slightly lower than the fan-on temperature: between 85\\u00b0F and 100\\u00b0F. The lower it is set, the longer the fan will run at the end of the cycle when the thermostat turns off the burners, moving residual heat from the heat exchanger to your house. If your fan-on and fan-off temperatures are fixed (rather than adjustable) and set too high, the control can be replaced. Note that the temperature markings on adjustable controls are often poorly calibrated. Verify the actual fan-on and fan-off temperatures with a thermometer in the supply plenum.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5fdc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2ddf\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"20d1\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7e09\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6857\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat Pumps\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2ae9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Air-source heat pumps, popular in some parts of the country, are basically air conditioners that can work in reverse to deliver heat into the house in winter. Heat pumps provide heating and cooling in one machine, with one duct system and no combustion. Heat pumps are not subject to backdrafting, combustion air requirements, or some of the offcycle losses to which furnaces are prone. Because they use ducts to deliver warm air to the house, heat pump ducts in attics, garages, and crawlspaces must be sealed thoroughly and insulated well. Heat pumps are more prone to airflow problems than furnaces are, and improper refrigerant charging can have a negative impact on both heating and cooling efficiency. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"17ee\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Operating efficiency and resistance heating\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4720\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat pumps are rated using Heating System Performance Factor, or HSPF. An HSPF of 6.8 corresponds to an efficiency of 200 percent. Most new heat pumps vary from 7.3 to about 10 HSPF; the larger the number, the more efficient the unit. An HSPF of 10 is approximately equal to 290-percent efficient\\u2014for every kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity you buy, you get almost 3 kWh of heat delivered to your house. How can a heat pump generate more energy than it consumes? The difference is made up by heat energy absorbed from the outdoor air. That energy goes into the system; because it\\u2019s free, it\\u2019s not counted in the measurement of efficiency. Most heat pumps, by themselves, operate at reasonable efficiencies until outside air temperatures drop to about 35\\u00b0F to 40\\u00b0F. As the outdoor air gets colder, less heat is available, and the heat pump output drops off, even as the house needs more heat. So cold-weather performance is typically supplemented with electric-resistance backup heaters. This auxiliary heat costs about three times more per unit of heat than the compressor heating cycle. That may be fine in regions with long summers, mild winters, and relatively low electric rates, but it\\u2019s not in much of the North, where electricity is expensive and winters are cold. One fairly inexpensive way to reduce the use of electric-resistance heating is to install an outdoor cutout thermostat. For about $100 to $150 installed, this device locks out the supplemental electric heat when the outdoor air temperature is above 30\\u00b0F or 35\\u00b0F.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5977\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7a9c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat pumps are even more sensitive to airflow than furnaces are. Heat pumps need to move a larger volume of air, but installers who are used to working with furnaces sometimes skimp on duct sizing, leading to low-airflow problems. Unfortunately, checking the airflow of a heat pump is not as easy as checking that of a furnace. It can be done with special instruments or with a version of the temperature-rise method used with the electric-resistance backup heat. Don\\u2019t attempt to take these measurements unless you understand exactly what you are doing\\u2014if you aren\\u2019t sure, get a service technician to do it for you. For best efficiency, heat pump airflow should be 375 CFM to 425 CFM per ton of heating capacity. It should never be below 300 CFM per ton. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour, and equipment is typically rated in increments of 1\\u20442 ton, such as \\u201c24\\u201d (\\u00d71,000 Btu, or 2 tons), \\u201c30\\u201d (21\\u20442 tons), \\u201c36\\u201d (3 tons), etc.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a563a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Refrigerant charge\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1d32d86\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Older heat pumps are also finicky about refrigerant charge. Many heat pumps, even when serviced regularly, are either over- or undercharged, which has a negative impact on efficiency. Unfortunately, many service technicians don\\u2019t take the time to diagnose or correct those problems; they typically get the system working and move on to the next service call. To measure charge correctly, airflow must be in the recommended range, and few technicians test airflow as a matter of course. There are very specific ways to measure refrigerant charge during unit operation. Depending on the type of unit, the superheat or subcooling must be measured carefully, as it is for an air conditioner. There are also several automated systems on the market today that trained technicians can use to analyze heat pump operation. Newer high-efficiency models should also be properly charged, but they are more forgiving of varying charge conditions and their efficiency doesn\\u2019t suffer as much.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"10b1fd1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat pump service\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"e514960\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Like furnaces, heat pumps should be serviced regularly. Basic service can be done by anyone. Air filters should be replaced once or twice a year, as needed, and the outdoor coil should be kept free of snow and debris. Regular service calls\\u2014 typically every two to three years\\u2014should include testing the controls, cleaning the blower and both the indoor and the outdoor coils as needed, and checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines. To service your heat pump, try to find a contractor whose technicians are certified by North American Technician Excellence (NATE, see www.hvacradvice.com), or who demonstrates a commitment to attending manufacturers\\u2019 programs frequently. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing airflow problems, then carefully measuring and correcting refrigerant charge. Once that has been done, service technicians generally should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless the system performance drops off or there is other evidence that something is wrong. Refrigerant does not escape unless there is a leak.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"de2ded1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic4.png\",\"id\":2079},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"26e4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heatin_Pic5.png\",\"id\":2080},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"06769f8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ductless Heat Pumps\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5e85b4a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ductless heat pumps, often called minisplit heat pumps, are available in higher heating (and cooling) efficiencies than just about any other heat pumps on the market. The most efficient ones use an inverter-driven compressor, and variable speed fans that run continuously at a low speed to match the load in the house and minimize noise. One outdoor unit may be used with one or more indoor units that deliver heat and cooling to the house. Each indoor unit connects to the outdoor unit with a small bundle of pipes and wires that carry refrigerant and electricity, so there are no duct losses. Some models are designed for cold climate operation and maintain a high heating capacity and decent efficiency near 0\\u00b0F. A single mini-split makes a great heating and cooling system for a single-room addition or a deep energy remodel, or to offset electric resistance, oil, or LP gas heat.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"74415b8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ground-source heat pumps\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b12d517\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ground-source heat pumps (or GSHPs; often called geothermal heat pumps) extract heat from the earth or from underground water, rather than from outdoor air. Because temperatures are more stable underground, GSHP systems theoretically have much higher heating efficiencies than air-source heat pumps; rated Coefficient of Performance (COPs) range from about 3 to 5 (300 percent to 500 percent). There are two basic types of GSHP systems. Closed-loop (ground-loop) systems are usually more efficient but can be more expensive to install. Open-loop (groundwater or water source) systems usually cost less to install but can cost more to run, due to the power consumption of a large well pump that\\u2019s often required for these systems. A third type of GSHP, called direct exchange (DX), uses a copper pipe ground loop to circulate refrigerant underground. Their long-term reliability is less clear than that of closed loop water-based systems. Like air-source heat pumps, ground-source heat pumps can be cost-effective in regions with mild or hot climates and moderate electric rates, especially in areas where installation costs are modest. However, in regions with cold climates and high electric rates, they generally do not provide enough savings to justify the high installation cost. Ground-source heat pumps can also have very high cooling efficiencies. The heating capacity of GSHPs is much better in cold weather than that of conventional air-source heat pumps, so there is typically little or no need for supplemental electric heat. Closed-loop systems need little or no maintenance, but open-loop systems may have water-quality issues, filters that need replacing, and well pumps with shortened life expectancies.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"ad52eba\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ground-Source Heat Pump Efficiency\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"ccb4742\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Efficiency ratings for GSHPs come in three flavors: water loop, ground loop, and ground water. \\u201cWater loop\\u201d is used for commercial systems; \\u201cground loop\\u201d is used for closed loops; and \\u201cground water\\u201d for open loops. All of them rate the heating efficiency using a Coefficient of Performance, which is the ratio of heat out to electricity in: A COP of 3 represents a heating efficiency of 300 percent. There\\u2019s a trick to the GSHP performance ratings: You can\\u2019t achieve them in a real installation. The rating applies only to \\u201cthe box\\u201d itself and does not include most of the energy required to pump water or move air through the system. Depending on the installation, this can increase real operating costs between 20 percent and 100 percent (bringing a rated COP of 5 down to somewhere between 4 and 2.5). Despite marketing claims that GSHPs are \\u201crenewable\\u201d and \\u201cgreen,\\u201d they still run on electricity. Because electric generation and power lines are inefficient, a GSHP may actually be more expensive to run and generate more emissions than a high-efficiency natural gas furnace and AC system. GSHPs are, however, typically cheaper and cleaner than oil or LP gas heat. They are also quite expensive to install; my preference is to invest in a more efficient building enclosure.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6a56\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"dbf320a\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"9d22846\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"e535b22\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"871c427\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Electric-Resistance Heat\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor05\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b3e88de\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Most electric-resistance heating systems are simple electric baseboard heaters. There are also various types of radiant-heat systems (usually panels mounted on ceiling or walls, built into valances, or built into ceiling or wall-finish systems). Cheap to install but expensive to operate, electric-resistance heat operates on the same principle as that of a toaster or hot plate. An electric current passes through a wire element, heating it. Air passes through and is heated by fins in the baseboard. Electric-resistance heat is always 100-percent efficient; every kilowatt-hour of electricity that you pay for is converted to heat. The reason electric baseboards are expensive to operate is that electricity costs two to four times as much as natural gas. One advantage of electric heat is the ease with which rooms can be zoned. But with the high fuel cost and hidden emissions, it\\u2019s difficult to justify except in special situations, such as isolated rooms, or extremely mild climates like southern Florida or Hawaii. Because these systems are so simple, there is very little that can be done to improve their efficiency. Short of supplementing or completely replacing them, the best approach (as always) is to insulate and thoroughly seal the building to reduce heating loads.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25bca46\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"16865fd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Operating efficiency and resistance heating\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3574f96\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat pumps are rated using Heating System Performance Factor, or HSPF. An HSPF of 6.8 corresponds to an efficiency of 200 percent. Most new heat pumps vary from 7.3 to about 10 HSPF; the larger the number, the more efficient the unit. An HSPF of 10 is approximately equal to 290-percent efficient\\u2014for every kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity you buy, you get almost 3 kWh of heat delivered to your house. How can a heat pump generate more energy than it consumes? The difference is made up by heat energy absorbed from the outdoor air. That energy goes into the system; because it\\u2019s free, it\\u2019s not counted in the measurement of efficiency. Most heat pumps, by themselves, operate at reasonable efficiencies until outside air temperatures drop to about 35\\u00b0F to 40\\u00b0F. As the outdoor air gets colder, less heat is available, and the heat pump output drops off, even as the house needs more heat. So cold-weather performance is typically supplemented with electric-resistance backup heaters. This auxiliary heat costs about three times more per unit of heat than the compressor heating cycle. That may be fine in regions with long summers, mild winters, and relatively low electric rates, but it\\u2019s not in much of the North, where electricity is expensive and winters are cold. One fairly inexpensive way to reduce the use of electric-resistance heating is to install an outdoor cutout thermostat. For about $100 to $150 installed, this device locks out the supplemental electric heat when the outdoor air temperature is above 30\\u00b0F or 35\\u00b0F.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6161648\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"de0f199\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat pumps are even more sensitive to airflow than furnaces are. Heat pumps need to move a larger volume of air, but installers who are used to working with furnaces sometimes skimp on duct sizing, leading to low-airflow problems. Unfortunately, checking the airflow of a heat pump is not as easy as checking that of a furnace. It can be done with special instruments or with a version of the temperature-rise method used with the electric-resistance backup heat. Don\\u2019t attempt to take these measurements unless you understand exactly what you are doing\\u2014if you aren\\u2019t sure, get a service technician to do it for you. For best efficiency, heat pump airflow should be 375 CFM to 425 CFM per ton of heating capacity. It should never be below 300 CFM per ton. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour, and equipment is typically rated in increments of 1\\u20442 ton, such as \\u201c24\\u201d (\\u00d71,000 Btu, or 2 tons), \\u201c30\\u201d (21\\u20442 tons), \\u201c36\\u201d (3 tons), etc.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"d9f5ba6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Refrigerant charge\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"cebe167\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Older heat pumps are also finicky about refrigerant charge. Many heat pumps, even when serviced regularly, are either over- or undercharged, which has a negative impact on efficiency. Unfortunately, many service technicians don\\u2019t take the time to diagnose or correct those problems; they typically get the system working and move on to the next service call. To measure charge correctly, airflow must be in the recommended range, and few technicians test airflow as a matter of course. There are very specific ways to measure refrigerant charge during unit operation. Depending on the type of unit, the superheat or subcooling must be measured carefully, as it is for an air conditioner. There are also several automated systems on the market today that trained technicians can use to analyze heat pump operation. Newer high-efficiency models should also be properly charged, but they are more forgiving of varying charge conditions and their efficiency doesn\\u2019t suffer as much.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a533e65\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat pump service\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"fc021ab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Like furnaces, heat pumps should be serviced regularly. Basic service can be done by anyone. Air filters should be replaced once or twice a year, as needed, and the outdoor coil should be kept free of snow and debris. Regular service calls\\u2014 typically every two to three years\\u2014should include testing the controls, cleaning the blower and both the indoor and the outdoor coils as needed, and checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines. To service your heat pump, try to find a contractor whose technicians are certified by North American Technician Excellence (NATE, see www.hvacradvice.com), or who demonstrates a commitment to attending manufacturers\\u2019 programs frequently. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing airflow problems, then carefully measuring and correcting refrigerant charge. Once that has been done, service technicians generally should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless the system performance drops off or there is other evidence that something is wrong. Refrigerant does not escape unless there is a leak.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1c14542\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heatin_Pic5.png\",\"id\":2080},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"41dc089\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ductless Heat Pumps\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"8028035\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ductless heat pumps, often called minisplit heat pumps, are available in higher heating (and cooling) efficiencies than just about any other heat pumps on the market. The most efficient ones use an inverter-driven compressor, and variable speed fans that run continuously at a low speed to match the load in the house and minimize noise. One outdoor unit may be used with one or more indoor units that deliver heat and cooling to the house. Each indoor unit connects to the outdoor unit with a small bundle of pipes and wires that carry refrigerant and electricity, so there are no duct losses. Some models are designed for cold climate operation and maintain a high heating capacity and decent efficiency near 0\\u00b0F. A single mini-split makes a great heating and cooling system for a single-room addition or a deep energy remodel, or to offset electric resistance, oil, or LP gas heat.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7ca3177\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ground-source heat pumps\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"cba1345\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ground-source heat pumps (or GSHPs; often called geothermal heat pumps) extract heat from the earth or from underground water, rather than from outdoor air. Because temperatures are more stable underground, GSHP systems theoretically have much higher heating efficiencies than air-source heat pumps; rated Coefficient of Performance (COPs) range from about 3 to 5 (300 percent to 500 percent). There are two basic types of GSHP systems. Closed-loop (ground-loop) systems are usually more efficient but can be more expensive to install. Open-loop (groundwater or water source) systems usually cost less to install but can cost more to run, due to the power consumption of a large well pump that\\u2019s often required for these systems. A third type of GSHP, called direct exchange (DX), uses a copper pipe ground loop to circulate refrigerant underground. Their long-term reliability is less clear than that of closed loop water-based systems. Like air-source heat pumps, ground-source heat pumps can be cost-effective in regions with mild or hot climates and moderate electric rates, especially in areas where installation costs are modest. However, in regions with cold climates and high electric rates, they generally do not provide enough savings to justify the high installation cost. Ground-source heat pumps can also have very high cooling efficiencies. The heating capacity of GSHPs is much better in cold weather than that of conventional air-source heat pumps, so there is typically little or no need for supplemental electric heat. Closed-loop systems need little or no maintenance, but open-loop systems may have water-quality issues, filters that need replacing, and well pumps with shortened life expectancies.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1121f77\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ground-Source Heat Pump Efficiency\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2d4e5c7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Efficiency ratings for GSHPs come in three flavors: water loop, ground loop, and ground water. \\u201cWater loop\\u201d is used for commercial systems; \\u201cground loop\\u201d is used for closed loops; and \\u201cground water\\u201d for open loops. All of them rate the heating efficiency using a Coefficient of Performance, which is the ratio of heat out to electricity in: A COP of 3 represents a heating efficiency of 300 percent. There\\u2019s a trick to the GSHP performance ratings: You can\\u2019t achieve them in a real installation. The rating applies only to \\u201cthe box\\u201d itself and does not include most of the energy required to pump water or move air through the system. Depending on the installation, this can increase real operating costs between 20 percent and 100 percent (bringing a rated COP of 5 down to somewhere between 4 and 2.5). Despite marketing claims that GSHPs are \\u201crenewable\\u201d and \\u201cgreen,\\u201d they still run on electricity. Because electric generation and power lines are inefficient, a GSHP may actually be more expensive to run and generate more emissions than a high-efficiency natural gas furnace and AC system. GSHPs are, however, typically cheaper and cleaner than oil or LP gas heat. They are also quite expensive to install; my preference is to invest in a more efficient building enclosure.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a34b211\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7c98\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1456\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1c64\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"5a38\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor05\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"654a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don\\u2019t. 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and Cooling Systems<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3878\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"52b4\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7ebf\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Efficiency Losses in a Heating System<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Duct Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Furnaces<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Heat Pumps<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Electric-Resistance Heat<\\/a>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Hot-Water and Steam Boilers<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5a1\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6edc\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"52ef\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"e34\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Efficiency Losses in a Heating System\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"329c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Not all the energy in the fuel you buy contributes to heating your house. Your heating system\\u2019s efficiency is the amount of useful heat you get as a percentage of purchased energy. Anything less than 100 percent represents waste, or lost efficiency. There are three kinds of heating system losses: combustion loss, cycling loss, and distribution loss. Combustion loss is simply the heat that goes up the chimney; it varies from about 30 percent to as little as 3 percent. That leaves a combustion efficiency between 70 percent and 97 percent; that is, the percentage of the fuel you buy that is converted to heat in the equipment. Combustion efficiency is mostly affected by equipment design; unless the burners are badly out of tune, it can\\u2019t be improved much unless you buy a new unit.\\n\\n Cycling losses occur when the heating equipment starts and stops. Each time the unit shuts off, some heat remains inside; some of that heat goes up the chimney. Cycling losses are affected by the equipment design, location, and controls; some efficiency improvements can be made if the controls are set poorly to begin with. Distribution losses occur when heat generated in the equipment gets out of the house before it reaches its destination. Distribution losses include duct air leaks and conductive losses through uninsulated ducts or pipes. Distribution losses can be significant: 5 percent to 30 percent, so in many homes a large improvement can be made.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6f08\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5a85\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1dfb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Comfort and energy use\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4f60\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Another fairly simple factor that affects heating-system performance is system balancing. Balancing refers to the temperature consistency from one room to the next. If one or more rooms are consistently too cold, people tend to set the thermostat high enough to be comfortable in those rooms. The rest of the house then overheats, using more energy. Balancing problems can be caused by thermal defects in the building, by problems in the distribution system, or by the thermostat location. Rooms that have air leaks, drafts, or missing insulation may lose heat faster than neighboring rooms, or they may just be uncomfortable. Thermal problems should be fixed before addressing the heating system. Once the building enclosure is properly treated, the distribution system can usually be adjusted for better balance.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6d24\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2bf0\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"13d5\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"31dc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air leaks in a duct system can have an enormous effect on your house. Duct leaks rob a furnace, heat pump, or central air system of energy\\u2014 sometimes close to half. Leaks can cause comfort problems, drive moisture flows, and sometimes even lead to dangerous back drafting of combustion equipment. Leaky basement ducts don\\u2019t usually waste much energy; sealing them is pretty easy, but there\\u2019s not much value to it. But ducts located in attics, garages, or vented crawlspaces can be a big energy problem. Sealing them can be the biggest opportunity for energy savings in many homes. Leaky ducts do more than let heat out. They also increase the air exchange in a house by 30 percent to 300 percent whenever the air handler is running. That is why furnaces have the reputation for drying out houses. Return leaks in a mechanical room or basement can backdraft a nearby water heater or even the furnace itself. Return leaks can also draw in radon gas, water vapor, subsoil pesticides, or airborne mold spores, distributing them throughout the house.<\\/p><p>Supply air leaking into an attic or enclosed cathedral ceiling cavity can deliver moisture at an accelerated rate to cold roof sheathing, causing condensation. If the ducts also carry central air-conditioning, return leaks can bring in outdoor humidity in the summer, reducing cooling efficiency, and leaks can draw outside air into building cavities, where moisture can lead to mold inside the house. Duct leaks are even more important than shell air leaks: Each hole and crack is under pressure from the furnace fan and leaks the hot air from your furnace (or cold air from your air conditioner).<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"582f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic1.png\",\"id\":2076},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"It\\u2019s important to peel back the insulation and vapor jacket to seal the duct connections. The black stains are from the air leaks.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"4896792\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Return ducts can be a bigger challenge. Return systems are frequently patched together using a combination of plywood, sheet metal, joist or wall cavities, and a lot of wishful thinking. Many HVAC installers don\\u2019t pay much attention to returns, focusing mostly on supplies that get the air to where it\\u2019s supposed to go. But well-sealed returns are important for furnace efficiency, occupant health and safety, and building durability. Fortunately, it\\u2019s not typically necessary to seal ducts that are buried inside interior wall and floor cavities. However, you do want to ensure that those cavities don\\u2019t leak to outside spaces; if they do, seal those leaks at the thermal boundary to keep the ducts and the indoor air inside.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"cab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct insulation\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7ee\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Ductwork that runs through unconditioned space should be insulated, if it is not already. Typically, supply ducts are insulated but often have weak spots at register boots and other major connections. Often, return ductwork is left uninsulated.<\\/p><p>Ducts should be insulated with vinyl-faced fiberglass wrap; R-6 is the minimum allowed by current residential codes; R-8 is required for supply ducts in attics. If possible, attic ducts should have higher R-values. Think about it: In winter, attic temperatures are nearly as cold as outdoors; in summer (for air-conditioning ducts), they are often much hotter than outdoors. If the ducts are close to the attic floor, cover them completely with loose-fill insulation. If that is not possible, try to find R-10 or higher duct wrap. Of course, seal all the duct connections tightly before insulating.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6e76\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6100\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"686f\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"474f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7f67\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnaces\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6380\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The furnace is by far the most common type of heating system in the country. In fact, it\\u2019s so common that many people use the word furnace to describe any type of heating equipment. Furnaces create heat by burning fuel, usually natural gas. Oil and liquefied petroleum (LP, or propane) gas are also used in areas where piped gas is unavailable. By contrast, heat pumps and electric furnaces use electricity to heat the air; they also use a duct system to deliver heat, but they are not furnaces and do not have a fuel supply, chimney, or vent pipe. Boilers burn gas or oil but create hot water or steam instead of warm air. Furnace efficiency can be improved by performing regular maintenance, improving airflow, adjusting control settings, and sealing leaky ductwork.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a91f30b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic2.jpg\",\"id\":2077},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"3182\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Regular maintenance\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a47\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Regular furnace maintenance is important to keep things running well, just as with any machine, but tune-ups and filter replacements don\\u2019t really save energy. Be sure to change the filter once or twice a year; more frequently is not much benefit because filters actually work better once some dust has built up on them. If the filter never gets dirty, however, then you may have a duct leak that is causing a loss of efficiency. Keeping registers open and free of obstructions may help your comfort, but this also won\\u2019t affect your energy bills noticeably.<\\/p><p>\\u00a0<\\/p><p>If you have a gas furnace, you should have it cleaned and tuned every two to four years. An oil burner should be tuned every year. Don\\u2019t wait until cold weather hits\\u2014that\\u2019s when the service companies are busy. You may get a better price if you get the tune-up in the spring.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"628b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic3.png\",\"id\":2078},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"Air filters should be replaced occasionally for best furnace performance. This pleated filter is more effective than the standard cheap fiberglass filter, and it doesn\\u2019t cost much more.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"1138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Low airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"135\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Low airflow can also reduce furnace efficiency. It can be caused by clogged air-conditioning coils, low fan speed settings, loose fan drive belts, undersized ductwork, or duct obstructions. Sometimes airflow is low to one room or section of the house, causing discomfort. Diagnosing low airflow is complex, but once identified, the fixes are usually fairly easy and inexpensive. These improvements are probably better left to a professional, but it\\u2019s good to be informed, because many technicians don\\u2019t bother checking airflow. If a service person is unable to explain in sensible terms what is happening in your system, you may want to get an opinion from another technician.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25e6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnace Tune-Up\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5fc9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"A professional tune-up for a gas furnace includes cleaning the burner and heat exchanger, checking the adjustment of air and fuel flow, cleaning and checking the heat exchanger for leaks, and testing draft pressure and carbon monoxide levels. The air-handler fan should be cleaned and lubricated as needed, once every two or three tune-ups. In addition, internal controls may be checked and adjusted if necessary. Don\\u2019t expect any real energy savings from a gas furnace tune-up; every two to four years is often enough. Oil burners are more finicky than gas burners. Most oil furnaces benefit from annual professional service; fuel filters, burner nozzles, electrodes, combustion chamber, heat exchanger, and flue pipe all need regular cleaning and adjustment. Checking heat exchangers and testing combustion efficiency are also useful. Try to find a technician who is knowledgeable, methodical, and thorough. If you have an oil furnace, the service technician might also recommend installing a smaller oil nozzle. This can reduce the heat output of the furnace, better matching it to the house and increasing operating efficiency slightly.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"9578043\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnace control settings\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9ea347a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The furnace controls can also have an impact on efficiency. The blower control, located above the heat exchanger, turns on the blower when it senses heat from the burner. The fan-on temperature should be set so the blower comes on between 90\\u00b0F and 105\\u00b0F; if it\\u2019s set too high, the burner will fire for a long time before the fan comes on, letting excess heat go up the chimney. If it\\u2019s set too low, the circulating air may feel uncomfortably cool.<\\/p><p>\\u00a0<\\/p><p>The fan-off temperature must be slightly lower than the fan-on temperature: between 85\\u00b0F and 100\\u00b0F. The lower it is set, the longer the fan will run at the end of the cycle when the thermostat turns off the burners, moving residual heat from the heat exchanger to your house. If your fan-on and fan-off temperatures are fixed (rather than adjustable) and set too high, the control can be replaced. Note that the temperature markings on adjustable controls are often poorly calibrated. Verify the actual fan-on and fan-off temperatures with a thermometer in the supply plenum.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5fdc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2ddf\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"20d1\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7e09\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6857\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat Pumps\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2ae9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Air-source heat pumps, popular in some parts of the country, are basically air conditioners that can work in reverse to deliver heat into the house in winter. Heat pumps provide heating and cooling in one machine, with one duct system and no combustion. Heat pumps are not subject to backdrafting, combustion air requirements, or some of the offcycle losses to which furnaces are prone. Because they use ducts to deliver warm air to the house, heat pump ducts in attics, garages, and crawlspaces must be sealed thoroughly and insulated well. Heat pumps are more prone to airflow problems than furnaces are, and improper refrigerant charging can have a negative impact on both heating and cooling efficiency. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"17ee\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Operating efficiency and resistance heating\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4720\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat pumps are rated using Heating System Performance Factor, or HSPF. An HSPF of 6.8 corresponds to an efficiency of 200 percent. Most new heat pumps vary from 7.3 to about 10 HSPF; the larger the number, the more efficient the unit. An HSPF of 10 is approximately equal to 290-percent efficient\\u2014for every kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity you buy, you get almost 3 kWh of heat delivered to your house. How can a heat pump generate more energy than it consumes? The difference is made up by heat energy absorbed from the outdoor air. That energy goes into the system; because it\\u2019s free, it\\u2019s not counted in the measurement of efficiency. Most heat pumps, by themselves, operate at reasonable efficiencies until outside air temperatures drop to about 35\\u00b0F to 40\\u00b0F. As the outdoor air gets colder, less heat is available, and the heat pump output drops off, even as the house needs more heat. So cold-weather performance is typically supplemented with electric-resistance backup heaters. This auxiliary heat costs about three times more per unit of heat than the compressor heating cycle. That may be fine in regions with long summers, mild winters, and relatively low electric rates, but it\\u2019s not in much of the North, where electricity is expensive and winters are cold. One fairly inexpensive way to reduce the use of electric-resistance heating is to install an outdoor cutout thermostat. For about $100 to $150 installed, this device locks out the supplemental electric heat when the outdoor air temperature is above 30\\u00b0F or 35\\u00b0F.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5977\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7a9c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat pumps are even more sensitive to airflow than furnaces are. Heat pumps need to move a larger volume of air, but installers who are used to working with furnaces sometimes skimp on duct sizing, leading to low-airflow problems. Unfortunately, checking the airflow of a heat pump is not as easy as checking that of a furnace. It can be done with special instruments or with a version of the temperature-rise method used with the electric-resistance backup heat. Don\\u2019t attempt to take these measurements unless you understand exactly what you are doing\\u2014if you aren\\u2019t sure, get a service technician to do it for you. For best efficiency, heat pump airflow should be 375 CFM to 425 CFM per ton of heating capacity. It should never be below 300 CFM per ton. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour, and equipment is typically rated in increments of 1\\u20442 ton, such as \\u201c24\\u201d (\\u00d71,000 Btu, or 2 tons), \\u201c30\\u201d (21\\u20442 tons), \\u201c36\\u201d (3 tons), etc.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a563a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Refrigerant charge\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1d32d86\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Older heat pumps are also finicky about refrigerant charge. Many heat pumps, even when serviced regularly, are either over- or undercharged, which has a negative impact on efficiency. Unfortunately, many service technicians don\\u2019t take the time to diagnose or correct those problems; they typically get the system working and move on to the next service call. To measure charge correctly, airflow must be in the recommended range, and few technicians test airflow as a matter of course. There are very specific ways to measure refrigerant charge during unit operation. Depending on the type of unit, the superheat or subcooling must be measured carefully, as it is for an air conditioner. There are also several automated systems on the market today that trained technicians can use to analyze heat pump operation. Newer high-efficiency models should also be properly charged, but they are more forgiving of varying charge conditions and their efficiency doesn\\u2019t suffer as much.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"10b1fd1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat pump service\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"e514960\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Like furnaces, heat pumps should be serviced regularly. Basic service can be done by anyone. Air filters should be replaced once or twice a year, as needed, and the outdoor coil should be kept free of snow and debris. Regular service calls\\u2014 typically every two to three years\\u2014should include testing the controls, cleaning the blower and both the indoor and the outdoor coils as needed, and checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines. To service your heat pump, try to find a contractor whose technicians are certified by North American Technician Excellence (NATE, see www.hvacradvice.com), or who demonstrates a commitment to attending manufacturers\\u2019 programs frequently. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing airflow problems, then carefully measuring and correcting refrigerant charge. Once that has been done, service technicians generally should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless the system performance drops off or there is other evidence that something is wrong. Refrigerant does not escape unless there is a leak.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"de2ded1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic4.png\",\"id\":2079},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"26e4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heatin_Pic5.png\",\"id\":2080},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"06769f8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ductless Heat Pumps\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5e85b4a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ductless heat pumps, often called minisplit heat pumps, are available in higher heating (and cooling) efficiencies than just about any other heat pumps on the market. The most efficient ones use an inverter-driven compressor, and variable speed fans that run continuously at a low speed to match the load in the house and minimize noise. One outdoor unit may be used with one or more indoor units that deliver heat and cooling to the house. Each indoor unit connects to the outdoor unit with a small bundle of pipes and wires that carry refrigerant and electricity, so there are no duct losses. Some models are designed for cold climate operation and maintain a high heating capacity and decent efficiency near 0\\u00b0F. A single mini-split makes a great heating and cooling system for a single-room addition or a deep energy remodel, or to offset electric resistance, oil, or LP gas heat.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"74415b8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ground-source heat pumps\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b12d517\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ground-source heat pumps (or GSHPs; often called geothermal heat pumps) extract heat from the earth or from underground water, rather than from outdoor air. Because temperatures are more stable underground, GSHP systems theoretically have much higher heating efficiencies than air-source heat pumps; rated Coefficient of Performance (COPs) range from about 3 to 5 (300 percent to 500 percent). There are two basic types of GSHP systems. Closed-loop (ground-loop) systems are usually more efficient but can be more expensive to install. Open-loop (groundwater or water source) systems usually cost less to install but can cost more to run, due to the power consumption of a large well pump that\\u2019s often required for these systems. A third type of GSHP, called direct exchange (DX), uses a copper pipe ground loop to circulate refrigerant underground. Their long-term reliability is less clear than that of closed loop water-based systems. Like air-source heat pumps, ground-source heat pumps can be cost-effective in regions with mild or hot climates and moderate electric rates, especially in areas where installation costs are modest. However, in regions with cold climates and high electric rates, they generally do not provide enough savings to justify the high installation cost. Ground-source heat pumps can also have very high cooling efficiencies. The heating capacity of GSHPs is much better in cold weather than that of conventional air-source heat pumps, so there is typically little or no need for supplemental electric heat. Closed-loop systems need little or no maintenance, but open-loop systems may have water-quality issues, filters that need replacing, and well pumps with shortened life expectancies.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"ad52eba\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ground-Source Heat Pump Efficiency\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"ccb4742\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Efficiency ratings for GSHPs come in three flavors: water loop, ground loop, and ground water. \\u201cWater loop\\u201d is used for commercial systems; \\u201cground loop\\u201d is used for closed loops; and \\u201cground water\\u201d for open loops. All of them rate the heating efficiency using a Coefficient of Performance, which is the ratio of heat out to electricity in: A COP of 3 represents a heating efficiency of 300 percent. There\\u2019s a trick to the GSHP performance ratings: You can\\u2019t achieve them in a real installation. The rating applies only to \\u201cthe box\\u201d itself and does not include most of the energy required to pump water or move air through the system. Depending on the installation, this can increase real operating costs between 20 percent and 100 percent (bringing a rated COP of 5 down to somewhere between 4 and 2.5). Despite marketing claims that GSHPs are \\u201crenewable\\u201d and \\u201cgreen,\\u201d they still run on electricity. Because electric generation and power lines are inefficient, a GSHP may actually be more expensive to run and generate more emissions than a high-efficiency natural gas furnace and AC system. GSHPs are, however, typically cheaper and cleaner than oil or LP gas heat. They are also quite expensive to install; my preference is to invest in a more efficient building enclosure.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6a56\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"dbf320a\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"9d22846\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"e535b22\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"871c427\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Electric-Resistance Heat\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor05\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b3e88de\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Most electric-resistance heating systems are simple electric baseboard heaters. There are also various types of radiant-heat systems (usually panels mounted on ceiling or walls, built into valances, or built into ceiling or wall-finish systems). Cheap to install but expensive to operate, electric-resistance heat operates on the same principle as that of a toaster or hot plate. An electric current passes through a wire element, heating it. Air passes through and is heated by fins in the baseboard. Electric-resistance heat is always 100-percent efficient; every kilowatt-hour of electricity that you pay for is converted to heat. The reason electric baseboards are expensive to operate is that electricity costs two to four times as much as natural gas. One advantage of electric heat is the ease with which rooms can be zoned. But with the high fuel cost and hidden emissions, it\\u2019s difficult to justify except in special situations, such as isolated rooms, or extremely mild climates like southern Florida or Hawaii. Because these systems are so simple, there is very little that can be done to improve their efficiency. Short of supplementing or completely replacing them, the best approach (as always) is to insulate and thoroughly seal the building to reduce heating loads.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25bca46\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic6.png\",\"id\":2085},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"An electric baseboard heater is its own distribution system and is usually precisely in the area where heat is desired, so there are no distribution losses like those found in ductwork.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"16865fd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Supplementing Electric Heat\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3574f96\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>A great way to reduce the cost of electric, LP or oil heat for a reasonable cost is with the installation of a variable speed ductless heat pump. The best systems are rated with an HSPF of 10 to 12, which means they use 65 percent to 70 percent less electricity per unit of delivered heat. Installing a single mini-split to heat a main living area can save 30 percent to 50 percent of a home\\u2019s heating bill (leaving the existing heat for remote rooms in cold weather), at an installed cost of $3,000 to $4,000. Ductless heat pumps also provide air-conditioning much more efficiently than do window units.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6161648\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"de0f199\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat pumps are even more sensitive to airflow than furnaces are. Heat pumps need to move a larger volume of air, but installers who are used to working with furnaces sometimes skimp on duct sizing, leading to low-airflow problems. Unfortunately, checking the airflow of a heat pump is not as easy as checking that of a furnace. It can be done with special instruments or with a version of the temperature-rise method used with the electric-resistance backup heat. Don\\u2019t attempt to take these measurements unless you understand exactly what you are doing\\u2014if you aren\\u2019t sure, get a service technician to do it for you. For best efficiency, heat pump airflow should be 375 CFM to 425 CFM per ton of heating capacity. It should never be below 300 CFM per ton. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour, and equipment is typically rated in increments of 1\\u20442 ton, such as \\u201c24\\u201d (\\u00d71,000 Btu, or 2 tons), \\u201c30\\u201d (21\\u20442 tons), \\u201c36\\u201d (3 tons), etc.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"d9f5ba6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Refrigerant charge\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"cebe167\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Older heat pumps are also finicky about refrigerant charge. Many heat pumps, even when serviced regularly, are either over- or undercharged, which has a negative impact on efficiency. Unfortunately, many service technicians don\\u2019t take the time to diagnose or correct those problems; they typically get the system working and move on to the next service call. To measure charge correctly, airflow must be in the recommended range, and few technicians test airflow as a matter of course. There are very specific ways to measure refrigerant charge during unit operation. Depending on the type of unit, the superheat or subcooling must be measured carefully, as it is for an air conditioner. There are also several automated systems on the market today that trained technicians can use to analyze heat pump operation. Newer high-efficiency models should also be properly charged, but they are more forgiving of varying charge conditions and their efficiency doesn\\u2019t suffer as much.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a533e65\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat pump service\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"fc021ab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Like furnaces, heat pumps should be serviced regularly. Basic service can be done by anyone. Air filters should be replaced once or twice a year, as needed, and the outdoor coil should be kept free of snow and debris. Regular service calls\\u2014 typically every two to three years\\u2014should include testing the controls, cleaning the blower and both the indoor and the outdoor coils as needed, and checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines. To service your heat pump, try to find a contractor whose technicians are certified by North American Technician Excellence (NATE, see www.hvacradvice.com), or who demonstrates a commitment to attending manufacturers\\u2019 programs frequently. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing airflow problems, then carefully measuring and correcting refrigerant charge. Once that has been done, service technicians generally should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless the system performance drops off or there is other evidence that something is wrong. Refrigerant does not escape unless there is a leak.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1c14542\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heatin_Pic5.png\",\"id\":2080},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"41dc089\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ductless Heat Pumps\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"8028035\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ductless heat pumps, often called minisplit heat pumps, are available in higher heating (and cooling) efficiencies than just about any other heat pumps on the market. The most efficient ones use an inverter-driven compressor, and variable speed fans that run continuously at a low speed to match the load in the house and minimize noise. One outdoor unit may be used with one or more indoor units that deliver heat and cooling to the house. Each indoor unit connects to the outdoor unit with a small bundle of pipes and wires that carry refrigerant and electricity, so there are no duct losses. Some models are designed for cold climate operation and maintain a high heating capacity and decent efficiency near 0\\u00b0F. A single mini-split makes a great heating and cooling system for a single-room addition or a deep energy remodel, or to offset electric resistance, oil, or LP gas heat.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7ca3177\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ground-source heat pumps\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"cba1345\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ground-source heat pumps (or GSHPs; often called geothermal heat pumps) extract heat from the earth or from underground water, rather than from outdoor air. Because temperatures are more stable underground, GSHP systems theoretically have much higher heating efficiencies than air-source heat pumps; rated Coefficient of Performance (COPs) range from about 3 to 5 (300 percent to 500 percent). There are two basic types of GSHP systems. Closed-loop (ground-loop) systems are usually more efficient but can be more expensive to install. Open-loop (groundwater or water source) systems usually cost less to install but can cost more to run, due to the power consumption of a large well pump that\\u2019s often required for these systems. A third type of GSHP, called direct exchange (DX), uses a copper pipe ground loop to circulate refrigerant underground. Their long-term reliability is less clear than that of closed loop water-based systems. Like air-source heat pumps, ground-source heat pumps can be cost-effective in regions with mild or hot climates and moderate electric rates, especially in areas where installation costs are modest. However, in regions with cold climates and high electric rates, they generally do not provide enough savings to justify the high installation cost. Ground-source heat pumps can also have very high cooling efficiencies. The heating capacity of GSHPs is much better in cold weather than that of conventional air-source heat pumps, so there is typically little or no need for supplemental electric heat. Closed-loop systems need little or no maintenance, but open-loop systems may have water-quality issues, filters that need replacing, and well pumps with shortened life expectancies.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1121f77\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ground-Source Heat Pump Efficiency\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2d4e5c7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Efficiency ratings for GSHPs come in three flavors: water loop, ground loop, and ground water. \\u201cWater loop\\u201d is used for commercial systems; \\u201cground loop\\u201d is used for closed loops; and \\u201cground water\\u201d for open loops. All of them rate the heating efficiency using a Coefficient of Performance, which is the ratio of heat out to electricity in: A COP of 3 represents a heating efficiency of 300 percent. There\\u2019s a trick to the GSHP performance ratings: You can\\u2019t achieve them in a real installation. The rating applies only to \\u201cthe box\\u201d itself and does not include most of the energy required to pump water or move air through the system. Depending on the installation, this can increase real operating costs between 20 percent and 100 percent (bringing a rated COP of 5 down to somewhere between 4 and 2.5). Despite marketing claims that GSHPs are \\u201crenewable\\u201d and \\u201cgreen,\\u201d they still run on electricity. Because electric generation and power lines are inefficient, a GSHP may actually be more expensive to run and generate more emissions than a high-efficiency natural gas furnace and AC system. GSHPs are, however, typically cheaper and cleaner than oil or LP gas heat. They are also quite expensive to install; my preference is to invest in a more efficient building enclosure.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a34b211\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7c98\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1456\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1c64\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"5a38\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor05\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"654a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don\\u2019t. 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and Cooling Systems<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3878\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"52b4\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7ebf\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Efficiency Losses in a Heating System<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Duct Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Furnaces<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Heat Pumps<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Electric-Resistance Heat<\\/a>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Hot-Water and Steam Boilers<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5a1\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6edc\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"52ef\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"e34\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Efficiency Losses in a Heating System\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"329c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Not all the energy in the fuel you buy contributes to heating your house. Your heating system\\u2019s efficiency is the amount of useful heat you get as a percentage of purchased energy. Anything less than 100 percent represents waste, or lost efficiency. There are three kinds of heating system losses: combustion loss, cycling loss, and distribution loss. Combustion loss is simply the heat that goes up the chimney; it varies from about 30 percent to as little as 3 percent. That leaves a combustion efficiency between 70 percent and 97 percent; that is, the percentage of the fuel you buy that is converted to heat in the equipment. Combustion efficiency is mostly affected by equipment design; unless the burners are badly out of tune, it can\\u2019t be improved much unless you buy a new unit.\\n\\n Cycling losses occur when the heating equipment starts and stops. Each time the unit shuts off, some heat remains inside; some of that heat goes up the chimney. Cycling losses are affected by the equipment design, location, and controls; some efficiency improvements can be made if the controls are set poorly to begin with. Distribution losses occur when heat generated in the equipment gets out of the house before it reaches its destination. Distribution losses include duct air leaks and conductive losses through uninsulated ducts or pipes. Distribution losses can be significant: 5 percent to 30 percent, so in many homes a large improvement can be made.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6f08\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5a85\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1dfb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Comfort and energy use\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4f60\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Another fairly simple factor that affects heating-system performance is system balancing. Balancing refers to the temperature consistency from one room to the next. If one or more rooms are consistently too cold, people tend to set the thermostat high enough to be comfortable in those rooms. The rest of the house then overheats, using more energy. Balancing problems can be caused by thermal defects in the building, by problems in the distribution system, or by the thermostat location. Rooms that have air leaks, drafts, or missing insulation may lose heat faster than neighboring rooms, or they may just be uncomfortable. Thermal problems should be fixed before addressing the heating system. Once the building enclosure is properly treated, the distribution system can usually be adjusted for better balance.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6d24\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2bf0\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"13d5\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"31dc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air leaks in a duct system can have an enormous effect on your house. Duct leaks rob a furnace, heat pump, or central air system of energy\\u2014 sometimes close to half. Leaks can cause comfort problems, drive moisture flows, and sometimes even lead to dangerous back drafting of combustion equipment. Leaky basement ducts don\\u2019t usually waste much energy; sealing them is pretty easy, but there\\u2019s not much value to it. But ducts located in attics, garages, or vented crawlspaces can be a big energy problem. Sealing them can be the biggest opportunity for energy savings in many homes. Leaky ducts do more than let heat out. They also increase the air exchange in a house by 30 percent to 300 percent whenever the air handler is running. That is why furnaces have the reputation for drying out houses. Return leaks in a mechanical room or basement can backdraft a nearby water heater or even the furnace itself. Return leaks can also draw in radon gas, water vapor, subsoil pesticides, or airborne mold spores, distributing them throughout the house.<\\/p><p>Supply air leaking into an attic or enclosed cathedral ceiling cavity can deliver moisture at an accelerated rate to cold roof sheathing, causing condensation. If the ducts also carry central air-conditioning, return leaks can bring in outdoor humidity in the summer, reducing cooling efficiency, and leaks can draw outside air into building cavities, where moisture can lead to mold inside the house. Duct leaks are even more important than shell air leaks: Each hole and crack is under pressure from the furnace fan and leaks the hot air from your furnace (or cold air from your air conditioner).<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"582f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic1.png\",\"id\":2076},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"It\\u2019s important to peel back the insulation and vapor jacket to seal the duct connections. The black stains are from the air leaks.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"4896792\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Return ducts can be a bigger challenge. Return systems are frequently patched together using a combination of plywood, sheet metal, joist or wall cavities, and a lot of wishful thinking. Many HVAC installers don\\u2019t pay much attention to returns, focusing mostly on supplies that get the air to where it\\u2019s supposed to go. But well-sealed returns are important for furnace efficiency, occupant health and safety, and building durability. Fortunately, it\\u2019s not typically necessary to seal ducts that are buried inside interior wall and floor cavities. However, you do want to ensure that those cavities don\\u2019t leak to outside spaces; if they do, seal those leaks at the thermal boundary to keep the ducts and the indoor air inside.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"cab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct insulation\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7ee\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Ductwork that runs through unconditioned space should be insulated, if it is not already. Typically, supply ducts are insulated but often have weak spots at register boots and other major connections. Often, return ductwork is left uninsulated.<\\/p><p>Ducts should be insulated with vinyl-faced fiberglass wrap; R-6 is the minimum allowed by current residential codes; R-8 is required for supply ducts in attics. If possible, attic ducts should have higher R-values. Think about it: In winter, attic temperatures are nearly as cold as outdoors; in summer (for air-conditioning ducts), they are often much hotter than outdoors. If the ducts are close to the attic floor, cover them completely with loose-fill insulation. If that is not possible, try to find R-10 or higher duct wrap. Of course, seal all the duct connections tightly before insulating.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6e76\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6100\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"686f\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"474f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7f67\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnaces\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6380\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The furnace is by far the most common type of heating system in the country. In fact, it\\u2019s so common that many people use the word furnace to describe any type of heating equipment. Furnaces create heat by burning fuel, usually natural gas. Oil and liquefied petroleum (LP, or propane) gas are also used in areas where piped gas is unavailable. By contrast, heat pumps and electric furnaces use electricity to heat the air; they also use a duct system to deliver heat, but they are not furnaces and do not have a fuel supply, chimney, or vent pipe. Boilers burn gas or oil but create hot water or steam instead of warm air. Furnace efficiency can be improved by performing regular maintenance, improving airflow, adjusting control settings, and sealing leaky ductwork.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a91f30b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic2.jpg\",\"id\":2077},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"3182\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Regular maintenance\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a47\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Regular furnace maintenance is important to keep things running well, just as with any machine, but tune-ups and filter replacements don\\u2019t really save energy. Be sure to change the filter once or twice a year; more frequently is not much benefit because filters actually work better once some dust has built up on them. If the filter never gets dirty, however, then you may have a duct leak that is causing a loss of efficiency. Keeping registers open and free of obstructions may help your comfort, but this also won\\u2019t affect your energy bills noticeably.<\\/p><p>\\u00a0<\\/p><p>If you have a gas furnace, you should have it cleaned and tuned every two to four years. An oil burner should be tuned every year. Don\\u2019t wait until cold weather hits\\u2014that\\u2019s when the service companies are busy. You may get a better price if you get the tune-up in the spring.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"628b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic3.png\",\"id\":2078},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"Air filters should be replaced occasionally for best furnace performance. This pleated filter is more effective than the standard cheap fiberglass filter, and it doesn\\u2019t cost much more.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"1138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Low airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"135\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Low airflow can also reduce furnace efficiency. It can be caused by clogged air-conditioning coils, low fan speed settings, loose fan drive belts, undersized ductwork, or duct obstructions. Sometimes airflow is low to one room or section of the house, causing discomfort. Diagnosing low airflow is complex, but once identified, the fixes are usually fairly easy and inexpensive. These improvements are probably better left to a professional, but it\\u2019s good to be informed, because many technicians don\\u2019t bother checking airflow. If a service person is unable to explain in sensible terms what is happening in your system, you may want to get an opinion from another technician.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25e6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnace Tune-Up\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5fc9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"A professional tune-up for a gas furnace includes cleaning the burner and heat exchanger, checking the adjustment of air and fuel flow, cleaning and checking the heat exchanger for leaks, and testing draft pressure and carbon monoxide levels. The air-handler fan should be cleaned and lubricated as needed, once every two or three tune-ups. In addition, internal controls may be checked and adjusted if necessary. Don\\u2019t expect any real energy savings from a gas furnace tune-up; every two to four years is often enough. Oil burners are more finicky than gas burners. Most oil furnaces benefit from annual professional service; fuel filters, burner nozzles, electrodes, combustion chamber, heat exchanger, and flue pipe all need regular cleaning and adjustment. Checking heat exchangers and testing combustion efficiency are also useful. Try to find a technician who is knowledgeable, methodical, and thorough. If you have an oil furnace, the service technician might also recommend installing a smaller oil nozzle. This can reduce the heat output of the furnace, better matching it to the house and increasing operating efficiency slightly.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"9578043\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnace control settings\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9ea347a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The furnace controls can also have an impact on efficiency. The blower control, located above the heat exchanger, turns on the blower when it senses heat from the burner. The fan-on temperature should be set so the blower comes on between 90\\u00b0F and 105\\u00b0F; if it\\u2019s set too high, the burner will fire for a long time before the fan comes on, letting excess heat go up the chimney. If it\\u2019s set too low, the circulating air may feel uncomfortably cool.<\\/p><p>\\u00a0<\\/p><p>The fan-off temperature must be slightly lower than the fan-on temperature: between 85\\u00b0F and 100\\u00b0F. The lower it is set, the longer the fan will run at the end of the cycle when the thermostat turns off the burners, moving residual heat from the heat exchanger to your house. If your fan-on and fan-off temperatures are fixed (rather than adjustable) and set too high, the control can be replaced. Note that the temperature markings on adjustable controls are often poorly calibrated. Verify the actual fan-on and fan-off temperatures with a thermometer in the supply plenum.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5fdc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2ddf\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"20d1\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7e09\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6857\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat Pumps\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2ae9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Air-source heat pumps, popular in some parts of the country, are basically air conditioners that can work in reverse to deliver heat into the house in winter. Heat pumps provide heating and cooling in one machine, with one duct system and no combustion. Heat pumps are not subject to backdrafting, combustion air requirements, or some of the offcycle losses to which furnaces are prone. Because they use ducts to deliver warm air to the house, heat pump ducts in attics, garages, and crawlspaces must be sealed thoroughly and insulated well. Heat pumps are more prone to airflow problems than furnaces are, and improper refrigerant charging can have a negative impact on both heating and cooling efficiency. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"17ee\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Operating efficiency and resistance heating\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4720\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat pumps are rated using Heating System Performance Factor, or HSPF. An HSPF of 6.8 corresponds to an efficiency of 200 percent. Most new heat pumps vary from 7.3 to about 10 HSPF; the larger the number, the more efficient the unit. An HSPF of 10 is approximately equal to 290-percent efficient\\u2014for every kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity you buy, you get almost 3 kWh of heat delivered to your house. How can a heat pump generate more energy than it consumes? The difference is made up by heat energy absorbed from the outdoor air. That energy goes into the system; because it\\u2019s free, it\\u2019s not counted in the measurement of efficiency. Most heat pumps, by themselves, operate at reasonable efficiencies until outside air temperatures drop to about 35\\u00b0F to 40\\u00b0F. As the outdoor air gets colder, less heat is available, and the heat pump output drops off, even as the house needs more heat. So cold-weather performance is typically supplemented with electric-resistance backup heaters. This auxiliary heat costs about three times more per unit of heat than the compressor heating cycle. That may be fine in regions with long summers, mild winters, and relatively low electric rates, but it\\u2019s not in much of the North, where electricity is expensive and winters are cold. One fairly inexpensive way to reduce the use of electric-resistance heating is to install an outdoor cutout thermostat. For about $100 to $150 installed, this device locks out the supplemental electric heat when the outdoor air temperature is above 30\\u00b0F or 35\\u00b0F.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5977\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7a9c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat pumps are even more sensitive to airflow than furnaces are. Heat pumps need to move a larger volume of air, but installers who are used to working with furnaces sometimes skimp on duct sizing, leading to low-airflow problems. Unfortunately, checking the airflow of a heat pump is not as easy as checking that of a furnace. It can be done with special instruments or with a version of the temperature-rise method used with the electric-resistance backup heat. Don\\u2019t attempt to take these measurements unless you understand exactly what you are doing\\u2014if you aren\\u2019t sure, get a service technician to do it for you. For best efficiency, heat pump airflow should be 375 CFM to 425 CFM per ton of heating capacity. It should never be below 300 CFM per ton. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour, and equipment is typically rated in increments of 1\\u20442 ton, such as \\u201c24\\u201d (\\u00d71,000 Btu, or 2 tons), \\u201c30\\u201d (21\\u20442 tons), \\u201c36\\u201d (3 tons), etc.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a563a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Refrigerant charge\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1d32d86\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Older heat pumps are also finicky about refrigerant charge. Many heat pumps, even when serviced regularly, are either over- or undercharged, which has a negative impact on efficiency. Unfortunately, many service technicians don\\u2019t take the time to diagnose or correct those problems; they typically get the system working and move on to the next service call. To measure charge correctly, airflow must be in the recommended range, and few technicians test airflow as a matter of course. There are very specific ways to measure refrigerant charge during unit operation. Depending on the type of unit, the superheat or subcooling must be measured carefully, as it is for an air conditioner. There are also several automated systems on the market today that trained technicians can use to analyze heat pump operation. Newer high-efficiency models should also be properly charged, but they are more forgiving of varying charge conditions and their efficiency doesn\\u2019t suffer as much.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"10b1fd1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat pump service\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"e514960\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Like furnaces, heat pumps should be serviced regularly. Basic service can be done by anyone. Air filters should be replaced once or twice a year, as needed, and the outdoor coil should be kept free of snow and debris. Regular service calls\\u2014 typically every two to three years\\u2014should include testing the controls, cleaning the blower and both the indoor and the outdoor coils as needed, and checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines. To service your heat pump, try to find a contractor whose technicians are certified by North American Technician Excellence (NATE, see www.hvacradvice.com), or who demonstrates a commitment to attending manufacturers\\u2019 programs frequently. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing airflow problems, then carefully measuring and correcting refrigerant charge. Once that has been done, service technicians generally should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless the system performance drops off or there is other evidence that something is wrong. Refrigerant does not escape unless there is a leak.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"de2ded1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic4.png\",\"id\":2079},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"26e4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heatin_Pic5.png\",\"id\":2080},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"06769f8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ductless Heat Pumps\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5e85b4a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ductless heat pumps, often called minisplit heat pumps, are available in higher heating (and cooling) efficiencies than just about any other heat pumps on the market. The most efficient ones use an inverter-driven compressor, and variable speed fans that run continuously at a low speed to match the load in the house and minimize noise. One outdoor unit may be used with one or more indoor units that deliver heat and cooling to the house. Each indoor unit connects to the outdoor unit with a small bundle of pipes and wires that carry refrigerant and electricity, so there are no duct losses. Some models are designed for cold climate operation and maintain a high heating capacity and decent efficiency near 0\\u00b0F. A single mini-split makes a great heating and cooling system for a single-room addition or a deep energy remodel, or to offset electric resistance, oil, or LP gas heat.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"74415b8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ground-source heat pumps\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b12d517\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ground-source heat pumps (or GSHPs; often called geothermal heat pumps) extract heat from the earth or from underground water, rather than from outdoor air. Because temperatures are more stable underground, GSHP systems theoretically have much higher heating efficiencies than air-source heat pumps; rated Coefficient of Performance (COPs) range from about 3 to 5 (300 percent to 500 percent). There are two basic types of GSHP systems. Closed-loop (ground-loop) systems are usually more efficient but can be more expensive to install. Open-loop (groundwater or water source) systems usually cost less to install but can cost more to run, due to the power consumption of a large well pump that\\u2019s often required for these systems. A third type of GSHP, called direct exchange (DX), uses a copper pipe ground loop to circulate refrigerant underground. Their long-term reliability is less clear than that of closed loop water-based systems. Like air-source heat pumps, ground-source heat pumps can be cost-effective in regions with mild or hot climates and moderate electric rates, especially in areas where installation costs are modest. However, in regions with cold climates and high electric rates, they generally do not provide enough savings to justify the high installation cost. Ground-source heat pumps can also have very high cooling efficiencies. The heating capacity of GSHPs is much better in cold weather than that of conventional air-source heat pumps, so there is typically little or no need for supplemental electric heat. Closed-loop systems need little or no maintenance, but open-loop systems may have water-quality issues, filters that need replacing, and well pumps with shortened life expectancies.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"ad52eba\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ground-Source Heat Pump Efficiency\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"ccb4742\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Efficiency ratings for GSHPs come in three flavors: water loop, ground loop, and ground water. \\u201cWater loop\\u201d is used for commercial systems; \\u201cground loop\\u201d is used for closed loops; and \\u201cground water\\u201d for open loops. All of them rate the heating efficiency using a Coefficient of Performance, which is the ratio of heat out to electricity in: A COP of 3 represents a heating efficiency of 300 percent. There\\u2019s a trick to the GSHP performance ratings: You can\\u2019t achieve them in a real installation. The rating applies only to \\u201cthe box\\u201d itself and does not include most of the energy required to pump water or move air through the system. Depending on the installation, this can increase real operating costs between 20 percent and 100 percent (bringing a rated COP of 5 down to somewhere between 4 and 2.5). Despite marketing claims that GSHPs are \\u201crenewable\\u201d and \\u201cgreen,\\u201d they still run on electricity. Because electric generation and power lines are inefficient, a GSHP may actually be more expensive to run and generate more emissions than a high-efficiency natural gas furnace and AC system. GSHPs are, however, typically cheaper and cleaner than oil or LP gas heat. They are also quite expensive to install; my preference is to invest in a more efficient building enclosure.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6a56\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"dbf320a\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"9d22846\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"e535b22\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"871c427\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Electric-Resistance Heat\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor05\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b3e88de\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Most electric-resistance heating systems are simple electric baseboard heaters. There are also various types of radiant-heat systems (usually panels mounted on ceiling or walls, built into valances, or built into ceiling or wall-finish systems). Cheap to install but expensive to operate, electric-resistance heat operates on the same principle as that of a toaster or hot plate. An electric current passes through a wire element, heating it. Air passes through and is heated by fins in the baseboard. Electric-resistance heat is always 100-percent efficient; every kilowatt-hour of electricity that you pay for is converted to heat. The reason electric baseboards are expensive to operate is that electricity costs two to four times as much as natural gas. One advantage of electric heat is the ease with which rooms can be zoned. But with the high fuel cost and hidden emissions, it\\u2019s difficult to justify except in special situations, such as isolated rooms, or extremely mild climates like southern Florida or Hawaii. Because these systems are so simple, there is very little that can be done to improve their efficiency. Short of supplementing or completely replacing them, the best approach (as always) is to insulate and thoroughly seal the building to reduce heating loads.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25bca46\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic6.png\",\"id\":2085},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"An electric baseboard heater is its own distribution system and is usually precisely in the area where heat is desired, so there are no distribution losses like those found in ductwork.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"16865fd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Supplementing Electric Heat\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3574f96\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>A great way to reduce the cost of electric, LP or oil heat for a reasonable cost is with the installation of a variable speed ductless heat pump. The best systems are rated with an HSPF of 10 to 12, which means they use 65 percent to 70 percent less electricity per unit of delivered heat. Installing a single mini-split to heat a main living area can save 30 percent to 50 percent of a home\\u2019s heating bill (leaving the existing heat for remote rooms in cold weather), at an installed cost of $3,000 to $4,000. Ductless heat pumps also provide air-conditioning much more efficiently than do window units.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a34b211\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7c98\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1456\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1c64\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"5a38\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Hot-Water and Steam Boilers\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor06\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"654a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Boilers, an old standby in the Northeast, are becoming more popular around the country with the advent of radiant, hydro-air, and hybrid systems. Instead of heating air, a boiler heats water. The classic boiler system uses hydronic distribution. Water is heated by the boiler and pumped through pipes to hot-water radiators or baseboard fin-tube convectors to heat the house. Some older systems use a boiler to make steam, which expands to fill steam radiators without the need for a circulator pump. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"10abfe8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basic maintenance\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"387842d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Boiler maintenance is similar to that of a gas or oil furnace, but there is no blower fan to clean. Oil boilers should be serviced once a year, whereas gas boilers should be serviced every two to four years. Any swishing or gurgling sounds that you hear in the radiators indicate air trapped in the system, which reduces heat-exchange efficiency. A service technician can bleed out the air and show you how to do it if it is needed frequently. Occasionally, bleed valves may need to be installed or replaced. The technician should check the hydronic system pressure and expansion tank; the smallest leak anywhere in the system should be repaired immediately to prevent corrosion-causing oxygen from being brought in via makeup water connections.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a3b52bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Boiler controls and upgrades\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"8d5ab32\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"A typical hot-water boiler operates throughout the winter with a water temperature determined by the low-limit setting, a thermostatic switch that senses the water temperature inside the boiler and shuts off the burner when the water is hot enough. Standard boiler controls maintain full boiler temperature throughout the year, which is inefficient but necessary if a tankless coil water heater heats the domestic hot water. In the absence of a tankless coil, efficient boiler controls have a \\u201ccold start\\u201d feature that heats the boiler water only when it\\u2019s needed, and a \\u201cpurge\\u201d control that runs the circulating pump for a few minutes after the boiler shuts off, to extract any heat that remains inside. These controls, often standard or optional on new, high-efficiency models, can also be retrofitted to existing boilers\\u2014but you have to be careful. Cold-start boilers must be protected from condensing on start-up, which may take some extra piping and a thermic valve (made by DanfossR or Termovar) to maintain adequate return-water temperature. Many newer boilers designed for cold starting have this protection built in.\\n\\nAnother improvement for older boilers that don\\u2019t have good controls is a mechanical vent damper. This device closes off the flue pipe after the burner shuts off, stopping the flow of heat through the heat exchanger and up the chimney. It costs $125 to $350 installed. Don\\u2019t use a gravity-actuated vent damper that depends on the heat from the burner to stay open; they are much more likely to malfunction.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"c6c041c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Steam boilers\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"14ff0fc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Steam boilers are very different from hot water boilers. Steam systems were popular in the early 20th century, and many of them are still in service in older homes. Instead of relying on pumps to circulate hot water, steam boilers boil water to create steam. The steam naturally expands to fill all the pipes and radiators in the system, distributing heat throughout the house. Although steam-heat distribution is simple and reliable, steam boilers have a number of unique maintenance and efficiency issues. Most residential steam systems are one-pipe systems. When the thermostat calls for heat, the boiler fires and steam begins expanding to fill the system. As the steam expands, it displaces air contained in the pipes and radiators, and that air must be allowed to escape through air vents typically located on the side of each radiator. Once the steam reaches the radiator, the air vent senses the heat and closes, keeping the steam inside. As the steam emits heat through the radiator, it condenses to water and flows back via gravity through the same pipes to the boiler.\\n\\nAir-venting systems that aren\\u2019t working properly can lead to uneven heating, large temperature fluctuations, and discomfort. A tune-up can increase energy efficiency and comfort dramatically. If the air vents are too small, if there are not enough of them, or if they are clogged with mineral deposits, air gets trapped in the system, and the steam cannot reach its destination. Having a professional replace malfunctioning air vents, add extra vents to radiators, or add special high-volume air vents to large central supply pipes can improve steam-system efficiency by quickly getting the heat where it is needed. Thermostatically controlled vents can reduce the rate of steam delivery to some rooms, reducing overheating and improving overall comfort.\\n\\nA common problem with steam systems is too much pressure. The boiler pressure controls should be set just high enough so that the boiler shuts down just as each radiator fills with steam. Too much steam pressure increases the boiler\\u2019s cycling losses and leads to overheating. That can particularly be a problem if the building envelope\\u2019s efficiency is improved dramatically and\\/or some radiators are removed during remodeling. Timed-cycle controllers vary the boiler cycle length to match the outdoor temperature, further improving the system\\u2019s efficiency.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"705f6bb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"a5d58e6\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"962cc36\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4f84b4b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"b626660\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor07\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"cade1ab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Replacing a heating system with a newer, more efficient system is expensive, so it will typically have a long payback. However, if you have to replace a broken furnace or boiler, it is almost always cost-effective to select a high-efficiency system. However efficient (or inefficient) a house shell is, replacing a furnace from the mid-1980s or earlier with a 95-percent-efficient unit will save between 20 percent and 25 percent of the heating bill. Replacing an old boiler can save even more. On the other hand, if you have a 15-year-old unit that\\u2019s rated between 80-percent and 85-percent efficient, the savings will be much smaller. It\\u2019s probably better to spend your money on other efficiency projects. Finally, if you are planning a series of efficiency improvements to the house, it can be a good idea to complete them before upgrading equipment\\u2014you may be able to save some money by installing a smaller unit. If your existing heating system is functional but appears to be on its last legs, replacing it early can help avoid a big surprise. Deciding, rather than being forced, to replace a system reduces the panic factor and allows for a more reasoned choice. It may even reduce the cost a bit, because it won\\u2019t be an emergency call.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7861759\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Efficiency ratings\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9f83449\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>All new boilers and furnaces have standardized efficiency ratings, just like the gas-mileage ratings on automobiles. When selecting equipment, look for the highest efficiency ratings. Furnaces and boilers use Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE), which accounts for burner efficiency, pilot fuel, and off-cycle losses. New gas furnaces and boilers have AFUEs of 80 per-cent to 97 percent. AFUE ratings are available from manufacturers or at <a href=\\\"http:\\/\\/www.ahridirectory.org\\\">www.ahridirectory.org<\\/a>. Air-source heat pumps are rated using HSPF; GSHPs are rated using COP. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and Department of Energy (DOE) maintain a listing of high-efficiency equipment on their Energy Star website (<a href=\\\"http:\\/\\/www.energystar.gov\\/\\\">www.energystar.gov\\/<\\/a> products); always look for the Energy Star label, which indicates that the equipment meets certain above-minimum efficiency standards set by the government. Remember that the ratings apply to only the equipment. Installation problems, improper maintenance, and distribution problems (such as duct leakage) can reduce performance dramatically. Also remember that there are many products that exceed the Energy Star minimum standards; it\\u2019s still worth shopping for the highest-efficiency unit you can find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"432bc52\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic7.png\",\"id\":2089},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"The yellow Energy Guide label indicates the efficiency rating of new equipment and provides a comparison among similar 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and Cooling Systems<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3878\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"52b4\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7ebf\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Efficiency Losses in a Heating System<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Duct Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Furnaces<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Heat Pumps<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Electric-Resistance Heat<\\/a>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Hot-Water and Steam Boilers<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5a1\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6edc\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"52ef\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"e34\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Efficiency Losses in a Heating System\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"329c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Not all the energy in the fuel you buy contributes to heating your house. Your heating system\\u2019s efficiency is the amount of useful heat you get as a percentage of purchased energy. Anything less than 100 percent represents waste, or lost efficiency. There are three kinds of heating system losses: combustion loss, cycling loss, and distribution loss. Combustion loss is simply the heat that goes up the chimney; it varies from about 30 percent to as little as 3 percent. That leaves a combustion efficiency between 70 percent and 97 percent; that is, the percentage of the fuel you buy that is converted to heat in the equipment. Combustion efficiency is mostly affected by equipment design; unless the burners are badly out of tune, it can\\u2019t be improved much unless you buy a new unit.\\n\\n Cycling losses occur when the heating equipment starts and stops. Each time the unit shuts off, some heat remains inside; some of that heat goes up the chimney. Cycling losses are affected by the equipment design, location, and controls; some efficiency improvements can be made if the controls are set poorly to begin with. Distribution losses occur when heat generated in the equipment gets out of the house before it reaches its destination. Distribution losses include duct air leaks and conductive losses through uninsulated ducts or pipes. Distribution losses can be significant: 5 percent to 30 percent, so in many homes a large improvement can be made.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6f08\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5a85\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1dfb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Comfort and energy use\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4f60\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Another fairly simple factor that affects heating-system performance is system balancing. Balancing refers to the temperature consistency from one room to the next. If one or more rooms are consistently too cold, people tend to set the thermostat high enough to be comfortable in those rooms. The rest of the house then overheats, using more energy. Balancing problems can be caused by thermal defects in the building, by problems in the distribution system, or by the thermostat location. Rooms that have air leaks, drafts, or missing insulation may lose heat faster than neighboring rooms, or they may just be uncomfortable. Thermal problems should be fixed before addressing the heating system. Once the building enclosure is properly treated, the distribution system can usually be adjusted for better balance.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6d24\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2bf0\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"13d5\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"31dc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air leaks in a duct system can have an enormous effect on your house. Duct leaks rob a furnace, heat pump, or central air system of energy\\u2014 sometimes close to half. Leaks can cause comfort problems, drive moisture flows, and sometimes even lead to dangerous back drafting of combustion equipment. Leaky basement ducts don\\u2019t usually waste much energy; sealing them is pretty easy, but there\\u2019s not much value to it. But ducts located in attics, garages, or vented crawlspaces can be a big energy problem. Sealing them can be the biggest opportunity for energy savings in many homes. Leaky ducts do more than let heat out. They also increase the air exchange in a house by 30 percent to 300 percent whenever the air handler is running. That is why furnaces have the reputation for drying out houses. Return leaks in a mechanical room or basement can backdraft a nearby water heater or even the furnace itself. Return leaks can also draw in radon gas, water vapor, subsoil pesticides, or airborne mold spores, distributing them throughout the house.<\\/p><p>Supply air leaking into an attic or enclosed cathedral ceiling cavity can deliver moisture at an accelerated rate to cold roof sheathing, causing condensation. If the ducts also carry central air-conditioning, return leaks can bring in outdoor humidity in the summer, reducing cooling efficiency, and leaks can draw outside air into building cavities, where moisture can lead to mold inside the house. Duct leaks are even more important than shell air leaks: Each hole and crack is under pressure from the furnace fan and leaks the hot air from your furnace (or cold air from your air conditioner).<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"582f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic1.png\",\"id\":2076},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"It\\u2019s important to peel back the insulation and vapor jacket to seal the duct connections. The black stains are from the air leaks.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"4896792\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Return ducts can be a bigger challenge. Return systems are frequently patched together using a combination of plywood, sheet metal, joist or wall cavities, and a lot of wishful thinking. Many HVAC installers don\\u2019t pay much attention to returns, focusing mostly on supplies that get the air to where it\\u2019s supposed to go. But well-sealed returns are important for furnace efficiency, occupant health and safety, and building durability. Fortunately, it\\u2019s not typically necessary to seal ducts that are buried inside interior wall and floor cavities. However, you do want to ensure that those cavities don\\u2019t leak to outside spaces; if they do, seal those leaks at the thermal boundary to keep the ducts and the indoor air inside.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"cab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct insulation\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7ee\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Ductwork that runs through unconditioned space should be insulated, if it is not already. Typically, supply ducts are insulated but often have weak spots at register boots and other major connections. Often, return ductwork is left uninsulated.<\\/p><p>Ducts should be insulated with vinyl-faced fiberglass wrap; R-6 is the minimum allowed by current residential codes; R-8 is required for supply ducts in attics. If possible, attic ducts should have higher R-values. Think about it: In winter, attic temperatures are nearly as cold as outdoors; in summer (for air-conditioning ducts), they are often much hotter than outdoors. If the ducts are close to the attic floor, cover them completely with loose-fill insulation. If that is not possible, try to find R-10 or higher duct wrap. Of course, seal all the duct connections tightly before insulating.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6e76\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6100\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"686f\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"474f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7f67\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnaces\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6380\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The furnace is by far the most common type of heating system in the country. In fact, it\\u2019s so common that many people use the word furnace to describe any type of heating equipment. Furnaces create heat by burning fuel, usually natural gas. Oil and liquefied petroleum (LP, or propane) gas are also used in areas where piped gas is unavailable. By contrast, heat pumps and electric furnaces use electricity to heat the air; they also use a duct system to deliver heat, but they are not furnaces and do not have a fuel supply, chimney, or vent pipe. Boilers burn gas or oil but create hot water or steam instead of warm air. Furnace efficiency can be improved by performing regular maintenance, improving airflow, adjusting control settings, and sealing leaky ductwork.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a91f30b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic2.jpg\",\"id\":2077},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"3182\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Regular maintenance\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a47\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Regular furnace maintenance is important to keep things running well, just as with any machine, but tune-ups and filter replacements don\\u2019t really save energy. Be sure to change the filter once or twice a year; more frequently is not much benefit because filters actually work better once some dust has built up on them. If the filter never gets dirty, however, then you may have a duct leak that is causing a loss of efficiency. Keeping registers open and free of obstructions may help your comfort, but this also won\\u2019t affect your energy bills noticeably.<\\/p><p>\\u00a0<\\/p><p>If you have a gas furnace, you should have it cleaned and tuned every two to four years. An oil burner should be tuned every year. Don\\u2019t wait until cold weather hits\\u2014that\\u2019s when the service companies are busy. You may get a better price if you get the tune-up in the spring.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"628b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic3.png\",\"id\":2078},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"Air filters should be replaced occasionally for best furnace performance. This pleated filter is more effective than the standard cheap fiberglass filter, and it doesn\\u2019t cost much more.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"1138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Low airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"135\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Low airflow can also reduce furnace efficiency. It can be caused by clogged air-conditioning coils, low fan speed settings, loose fan drive belts, undersized ductwork, or duct obstructions. Sometimes airflow is low to one room or section of the house, causing discomfort. Diagnosing low airflow is complex, but once identified, the fixes are usually fairly easy and inexpensive. These improvements are probably better left to a professional, but it\\u2019s good to be informed, because many technicians don\\u2019t bother checking airflow. If a service person is unable to explain in sensible terms what is happening in your system, you may want to get an opinion from another technician.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25e6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnace Tune-Up\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5fc9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"A professional tune-up for a gas furnace includes cleaning the burner and heat exchanger, checking the adjustment of air and fuel flow, cleaning and checking the heat exchanger for leaks, and testing draft pressure and carbon monoxide levels. The air-handler fan should be cleaned and lubricated as needed, once every two or three tune-ups. In addition, internal controls may be checked and adjusted if necessary. Don\\u2019t expect any real energy savings from a gas furnace tune-up; every two to four years is often enough. Oil burners are more finicky than gas burners. Most oil furnaces benefit from annual professional service; fuel filters, burner nozzles, electrodes, combustion chamber, heat exchanger, and flue pipe all need regular cleaning and adjustment. Checking heat exchangers and testing combustion efficiency are also useful. Try to find a technician who is knowledgeable, methodical, and thorough. If you have an oil furnace, the service technician might also recommend installing a smaller oil nozzle. This can reduce the heat output of the furnace, better matching it to the house and increasing operating efficiency slightly.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"9578043\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnace control settings\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9ea347a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The furnace controls can also have an impact on efficiency. The blower control, located above the heat exchanger, turns on the blower when it senses heat from the burner. The fan-on temperature should be set so the blower comes on between 90\\u00b0F and 105\\u00b0F; if it\\u2019s set too high, the burner will fire for a long time before the fan comes on, letting excess heat go up the chimney. If it\\u2019s set too low, the circulating air may feel uncomfortably cool.<\\/p><p>\\u00a0<\\/p><p>The fan-off temperature must be slightly lower than the fan-on temperature: between 85\\u00b0F and 100\\u00b0F. The lower it is set, the longer the fan will run at the end of the cycle when the thermostat turns off the burners, moving residual heat from the heat exchanger to your house. If your fan-on and fan-off temperatures are fixed (rather than adjustable) and set too high, the control can be replaced. Note that the temperature markings on adjustable controls are often poorly calibrated. Verify the actual fan-on and fan-off temperatures with a thermometer in the supply plenum.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5fdc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2ddf\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"20d1\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7e09\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6857\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat Pumps\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2ae9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Air-source heat pumps, popular in some parts of the country, are basically air conditioners that can work in reverse to deliver heat into the house in winter. Heat pumps provide heating and cooling in one machine, with one duct system and no combustion. Heat pumps are not subject to backdrafting, combustion air requirements, or some of the offcycle losses to which furnaces are prone. Because they use ducts to deliver warm air to the house, heat pump ducts in attics, garages, and crawlspaces must be sealed thoroughly and insulated well. Heat pumps are more prone to airflow problems than furnaces are, and improper refrigerant charging can have a negative impact on both heating and cooling efficiency. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"17ee\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Operating efficiency and resistance heating\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4720\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat pumps are rated using Heating System Performance Factor, or HSPF. An HSPF of 6.8 corresponds to an efficiency of 200 percent. Most new heat pumps vary from 7.3 to about 10 HSPF; the larger the number, the more efficient the unit. An HSPF of 10 is approximately equal to 290-percent efficient\\u2014for every kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity you buy, you get almost 3 kWh of heat delivered to your house. How can a heat pump generate more energy than it consumes? The difference is made up by heat energy absorbed from the outdoor air. That energy goes into the system; because it\\u2019s free, it\\u2019s not counted in the measurement of efficiency. Most heat pumps, by themselves, operate at reasonable efficiencies until outside air temperatures drop to about 35\\u00b0F to 40\\u00b0F. As the outdoor air gets colder, less heat is available, and the heat pump output drops off, even as the house needs more heat. So cold-weather performance is typically supplemented with electric-resistance backup heaters. This auxiliary heat costs about three times more per unit of heat than the compressor heating cycle. That may be fine in regions with long summers, mild winters, and relatively low electric rates, but it\\u2019s not in much of the North, where electricity is expensive and winters are cold. One fairly inexpensive way to reduce the use of electric-resistance heating is to install an outdoor cutout thermostat. For about $100 to $150 installed, this device locks out the supplemental electric heat when the outdoor air temperature is above 30\\u00b0F or 35\\u00b0F.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5977\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7a9c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat pumps are even more sensitive to airflow than furnaces are. Heat pumps need to move a larger volume of air, but installers who are used to working with furnaces sometimes skimp on duct sizing, leading to low-airflow problems. Unfortunately, checking the airflow of a heat pump is not as easy as checking that of a furnace. It can be done with special instruments or with a version of the temperature-rise method used with the electric-resistance backup heat. Don\\u2019t attempt to take these measurements unless you understand exactly what you are doing\\u2014if you aren\\u2019t sure, get a service technician to do it for you. For best efficiency, heat pump airflow should be 375 CFM to 425 CFM per ton of heating capacity. It should never be below 300 CFM per ton. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour, and equipment is typically rated in increments of 1\\u20442 ton, such as \\u201c24\\u201d (\\u00d71,000 Btu, or 2 tons), \\u201c30\\u201d (21\\u20442 tons), \\u201c36\\u201d (3 tons), etc.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a563a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Refrigerant charge\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1d32d86\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Older heat pumps are also finicky about refrigerant charge. Many heat pumps, even when serviced regularly, are either over- or undercharged, which has a negative impact on efficiency. Unfortunately, many service technicians don\\u2019t take the time to diagnose or correct those problems; they typically get the system working and move on to the next service call. To measure charge correctly, airflow must be in the recommended range, and few technicians test airflow as a matter of course. There are very specific ways to measure refrigerant charge during unit operation. Depending on the type of unit, the superheat or subcooling must be measured carefully, as it is for an air conditioner. There are also several automated systems on the market today that trained technicians can use to analyze heat pump operation. Newer high-efficiency models should also be properly charged, but they are more forgiving of varying charge conditions and their efficiency doesn\\u2019t suffer as much.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"10b1fd1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat pump service\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"e514960\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Like furnaces, heat pumps should be serviced regularly. Basic service can be done by anyone. Air filters should be replaced once or twice a year, as needed, and the outdoor coil should be kept free of snow and debris. Regular service calls\\u2014 typically every two to three years\\u2014should include testing the controls, cleaning the blower and both the indoor and the outdoor coils as needed, and checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines. To service your heat pump, try to find a contractor whose technicians are certified by North American Technician Excellence (NATE, see www.hvacradvice.com), or who demonstrates a commitment to attending manufacturers\\u2019 programs frequently. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing airflow problems, then carefully measuring and correcting refrigerant charge. Once that has been done, service technicians generally should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless the system performance drops off or there is other evidence that something is wrong. Refrigerant does not escape unless there is a leak.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"de2ded1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic4.png\",\"id\":2079},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"26e4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heatin_Pic5.png\",\"id\":2080},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"06769f8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ductless Heat Pumps\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5e85b4a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ductless heat pumps, often called minisplit heat pumps, are available in higher heating (and cooling) efficiencies than just about any other heat pumps on the market. The most efficient ones use an inverter-driven compressor, and variable speed fans that run continuously at a low speed to match the load in the house and minimize noise. One outdoor unit may be used with one or more indoor units that deliver heat and cooling to the house. Each indoor unit connects to the outdoor unit with a small bundle of pipes and wires that carry refrigerant and electricity, so there are no duct losses. Some models are designed for cold climate operation and maintain a high heating capacity and decent efficiency near 0\\u00b0F. A single mini-split makes a great heating and cooling system for a single-room addition or a deep energy remodel, or to offset electric resistance, oil, or LP gas heat.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"74415b8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ground-source heat pumps\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b12d517\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ground-source heat pumps (or GSHPs; often called geothermal heat pumps) extract heat from the earth or from underground water, rather than from outdoor air. Because temperatures are more stable underground, GSHP systems theoretically have much higher heating efficiencies than air-source heat pumps; rated Coefficient of Performance (COPs) range from about 3 to 5 (300 percent to 500 percent). There are two basic types of GSHP systems. Closed-loop (ground-loop) systems are usually more efficient but can be more expensive to install. Open-loop (groundwater or water source) systems usually cost less to install but can cost more to run, due to the power consumption of a large well pump that\\u2019s often required for these systems. A third type of GSHP, called direct exchange (DX), uses a copper pipe ground loop to circulate refrigerant underground. Their long-term reliability is less clear than that of closed loop water-based systems. Like air-source heat pumps, ground-source heat pumps can be cost-effective in regions with mild or hot climates and moderate electric rates, especially in areas where installation costs are modest. However, in regions with cold climates and high electric rates, they generally do not provide enough savings to justify the high installation cost. Ground-source heat pumps can also have very high cooling efficiencies. The heating capacity of GSHPs is much better in cold weather than that of conventional air-source heat pumps, so there is typically little or no need for supplemental electric heat. Closed-loop systems need little or no maintenance, but open-loop systems may have water-quality issues, filters that need replacing, and well pumps with shortened life expectancies.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"ad52eba\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ground-Source Heat Pump Efficiency\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"ccb4742\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Efficiency ratings for GSHPs come in three flavors: water loop, ground loop, and ground water. \\u201cWater loop\\u201d is used for commercial systems; \\u201cground loop\\u201d is used for closed loops; and \\u201cground water\\u201d for open loops. All of them rate the heating efficiency using a Coefficient of Performance, which is the ratio of heat out to electricity in: A COP of 3 represents a heating efficiency of 300 percent. There\\u2019s a trick to the GSHP performance ratings: You can\\u2019t achieve them in a real installation. The rating applies only to \\u201cthe box\\u201d itself and does not include most of the energy required to pump water or move air through the system. Depending on the installation, this can increase real operating costs between 20 percent and 100 percent (bringing a rated COP of 5 down to somewhere between 4 and 2.5). Despite marketing claims that GSHPs are \\u201crenewable\\u201d and \\u201cgreen,\\u201d they still run on electricity. Because electric generation and power lines are inefficient, a GSHP may actually be more expensive to run and generate more emissions than a high-efficiency natural gas furnace and AC system. GSHPs are, however, typically cheaper and cleaner than oil or LP gas heat. They are also quite expensive to install; my preference is to invest in a more efficient building enclosure.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6a56\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"dbf320a\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"9d22846\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"e535b22\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"871c427\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Electric-Resistance Heat\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor05\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b3e88de\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Most electric-resistance heating systems are simple electric baseboard heaters. There are also various types of radiant-heat systems (usually panels mounted on ceiling or walls, built into valances, or built into ceiling or wall-finish systems). Cheap to install but expensive to operate, electric-resistance heat operates on the same principle as that of a toaster or hot plate. An electric current passes through a wire element, heating it. Air passes through and is heated by fins in the baseboard. Electric-resistance heat is always 100-percent efficient; every kilowatt-hour of electricity that you pay for is converted to heat. The reason electric baseboards are expensive to operate is that electricity costs two to four times as much as natural gas. One advantage of electric heat is the ease with which rooms can be zoned. But with the high fuel cost and hidden emissions, it\\u2019s difficult to justify except in special situations, such as isolated rooms, or extremely mild climates like southern Florida or Hawaii. Because these systems are so simple, there is very little that can be done to improve their efficiency. Short of supplementing or completely replacing them, the best approach (as always) is to insulate and thoroughly seal the building to reduce heating loads.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25bca46\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic6.png\",\"id\":2085},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"An electric baseboard heater is its own distribution system and is usually precisely in the area where heat is desired, so there are no distribution losses like those found in ductwork.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"16865fd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Supplementing Electric Heat\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3574f96\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>A great way to reduce the cost of electric, LP or oil heat for a reasonable cost is with the installation of a variable speed ductless heat pump. The best systems are rated with an HSPF of 10 to 12, which means they use 65 percent to 70 percent less electricity per unit of delivered heat. Installing a single mini-split to heat a main living area can save 30 percent to 50 percent of a home\\u2019s heating bill (leaving the existing heat for remote rooms in cold weather), at an installed cost of $3,000 to $4,000. Ductless heat pumps also provide air-conditioning much more efficiently than do window units.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a34b211\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7c98\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1456\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1c64\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"5a38\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Hot-Water and Steam Boilers\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor06\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"654a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Boilers, an old standby in the Northeast, are becoming more popular around the country with the advent of radiant, hydro-air, and hybrid systems. Instead of heating air, a boiler heats water. The classic boiler system uses hydronic distribution. Water is heated by the boiler and pumped through pipes to hot-water radiators or baseboard fin-tube convectors to heat the house. Some older systems use a boiler to make steam, which expands to fill steam radiators without the need for a circulator pump. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"10abfe8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basic maintenance\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"387842d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Boiler maintenance is similar to that of a gas or oil furnace, but there is no blower fan to clean. Oil boilers should be serviced once a year, whereas gas boilers should be serviced every two to four years. Any swishing or gurgling sounds that you hear in the radiators indicate air trapped in the system, which reduces heat-exchange efficiency. A service technician can bleed out the air and show you how to do it if it is needed frequently. Occasionally, bleed valves may need to be installed or replaced. The technician should check the hydronic system pressure and expansion tank; the smallest leak anywhere in the system should be repaired immediately to prevent corrosion-causing oxygen from being brought in via makeup water connections.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a3b52bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Boiler controls and upgrades\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"8d5ab32\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"A typical hot-water boiler operates throughout the winter with a water temperature determined by the low-limit setting, a thermostatic switch that senses the water temperature inside the boiler and shuts off the burner when the water is hot enough. Standard boiler controls maintain full boiler temperature throughout the year, which is inefficient but necessary if a tankless coil water heater heats the domestic hot water. In the absence of a tankless coil, efficient boiler controls have a \\u201ccold start\\u201d feature that heats the boiler water only when it\\u2019s needed, and a \\u201cpurge\\u201d control that runs the circulating pump for a few minutes after the boiler shuts off, to extract any heat that remains inside. These controls, often standard or optional on new, high-efficiency models, can also be retrofitted to existing boilers\\u2014but you have to be careful. Cold-start boilers must be protected from condensing on start-up, which may take some extra piping and a thermic valve (made by DanfossR or Termovar) to maintain adequate return-water temperature. Many newer boilers designed for cold starting have this protection built in.\\n\\nAnother improvement for older boilers that don\\u2019t have good controls is a mechanical vent damper. This device closes off the flue pipe after the burner shuts off, stopping the flow of heat through the heat exchanger and up the chimney. It costs $125 to $350 installed. Don\\u2019t use a gravity-actuated vent damper that depends on the heat from the burner to stay open; they are much more likely to malfunction.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"c6c041c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Steam boilers\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"14ff0fc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Steam boilers are very different from hot water boilers. Steam systems were popular in the early 20th century, and many of them are still in service in older homes. Instead of relying on pumps to circulate hot water, steam boilers boil water to create steam. The steam naturally expands to fill all the pipes and radiators in the system, distributing heat throughout the house. Although steam-heat distribution is simple and reliable, steam boilers have a number of unique maintenance and efficiency issues. Most residential steam systems are one-pipe systems. When the thermostat calls for heat, the boiler fires and steam begins expanding to fill the system. As the steam expands, it displaces air contained in the pipes and radiators, and that air must be allowed to escape through air vents typically located on the side of each radiator. Once the steam reaches the radiator, the air vent senses the heat and closes, keeping the steam inside. As the steam emits heat through the radiator, it condenses to water and flows back via gravity through the same pipes to the boiler.\\n\\nAir-venting systems that aren\\u2019t working properly can lead to uneven heating, large temperature fluctuations, and discomfort. A tune-up can increase energy efficiency and comfort dramatically. If the air vents are too small, if there are not enough of them, or if they are clogged with mineral deposits, air gets trapped in the system, and the steam cannot reach its destination. Having a professional replace malfunctioning air vents, add extra vents to radiators, or add special high-volume air vents to large central supply pipes can improve steam-system efficiency by quickly getting the heat where it is needed. Thermostatically controlled vents can reduce the rate of steam delivery to some rooms, reducing overheating and improving overall comfort.\\n\\nA common problem with steam systems is too much pressure. The boiler pressure controls should be set just high enough so that the boiler shuts down just as each radiator fills with steam. Too much steam pressure increases the boiler\\u2019s cycling losses and leads to overheating. That can particularly be a problem if the building envelope\\u2019s efficiency is improved dramatically and\\/or some radiators are removed during remodeling. Timed-cycle controllers vary the boiler cycle length to match the outdoor temperature, further improving the system\\u2019s efficiency.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"705f6bb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"a5d58e6\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"962cc36\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4f84b4b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"b626660\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor07\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"cade1ab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Replacing a heating system with a newer, more efficient system is expensive, so it will typically have a long payback. However, if you have to replace a broken furnace or boiler, it is almost always cost-effective to select a high-efficiency system. However efficient (or inefficient) a house shell is, replacing a furnace from the mid-1980s or earlier with a 95-percent-efficient unit will save between 20 percent and 25 percent of the heating bill. Replacing an old boiler can save even more. On the other hand, if you have a 15-year-old unit that\\u2019s rated between 80-percent and 85-percent efficient, the savings will be much smaller. It\\u2019s probably better to spend your money on other efficiency projects. Finally, if you are planning a series of efficiency improvements to the house, it can be a good idea to complete them before upgrading equipment\\u2014you may be able to save some money by installing a smaller unit. If your existing heating system is functional but appears to be on its last legs, replacing it early can help avoid a big surprise. Deciding, rather than being forced, to replace a system reduces the panic factor and allows for a more reasoned choice. It may even reduce the cost a bit, because it won\\u2019t be an emergency call.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7861759\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Efficiency ratings\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9f83449\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>All new boilers and furnaces have standardized efficiency ratings, just like the gas-mileage ratings on automobiles. When selecting equipment, look for the highest efficiency ratings. Furnaces and boilers use Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE), which accounts for burner efficiency, pilot fuel, and off-cycle losses. New gas furnaces and boilers have AFUEs of 80 per-cent to 97 percent. AFUE ratings are available from manufacturers or at <a href=\\\"http:\\/\\/www.ahridirectory.org\\\">www.ahridirectory.org<\\/a>. Air-source heat pumps are rated using HSPF; GSHPs are rated using COP. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and Department of Energy (DOE) maintain a listing of high-efficiency equipment on their Energy Star website (<a href=\\\"http:\\/\\/www.energystar.gov\\/\\\">www.energystar.gov\\/<\\/a> products); always look for the Energy Star label, which indicates that the equipment meets certain above-minimum efficiency standards set by the government. Remember that the ratings apply to only the equipment. Installation problems, improper maintenance, and distribution problems (such as duct leakage) can reduce performance dramatically. Also remember that there are many products that exceed the Energy Star minimum standards; it\\u2019s still worth shopping for the highest-efficiency unit you can find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"432bc52\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic7.png\",\"id\":2089},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"The yellow Energy Guide label indicates the efficiency rating of new equipment and provides a comparison among similar 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and Cooling Systems<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3878\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"52b4\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7ebf\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Efficiency Losses in a Heating System<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Duct Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Furnaces<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Heat Pumps<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Electric-Resistance Heat<\\/a>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Hot-Water and Steam Boilers<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5a1\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6edc\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"52ef\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"e34\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Efficiency Losses in a Heating System\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"329c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Not all the energy in the fuel you buy contributes to heating your house. Your heating system\\u2019s efficiency is the amount of useful heat you get as a percentage of purchased energy. Anything less than 100 percent represents waste, or lost efficiency. There are three kinds of heating system losses: combustion loss, cycling loss, and distribution loss. Combustion loss is simply the heat that goes up the chimney; it varies from about 30 percent to as little as 3 percent. That leaves a combustion efficiency between 70 percent and 97 percent; that is, the percentage of the fuel you buy that is converted to heat in the equipment. Combustion efficiency is mostly affected by equipment design; unless the burners are badly out of tune, it can\\u2019t be improved much unless you buy a new unit.\\n\\n Cycling losses occur when the heating equipment starts and stops. Each time the unit shuts off, some heat remains inside; some of that heat goes up the chimney. Cycling losses are affected by the equipment design, location, and controls; some efficiency improvements can be made if the controls are set poorly to begin with. Distribution losses occur when heat generated in the equipment gets out of the house before it reaches its destination. Distribution losses include duct air leaks and conductive losses through uninsulated ducts or pipes. Distribution losses can be significant: 5 percent to 30 percent, so in many homes a large improvement can be made.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6f08\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5a85\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1dfb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Comfort and energy use\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4f60\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Another fairly simple factor that affects heating-system performance is system balancing. Balancing refers to the temperature consistency from one room to the next. If one or more rooms are consistently too cold, people tend to set the thermostat high enough to be comfortable in those rooms. The rest of the house then overheats, using more energy. Balancing problems can be caused by thermal defects in the building, by problems in the distribution system, or by the thermostat location. Rooms that have air leaks, drafts, or missing insulation may lose heat faster than neighboring rooms, or they may just be uncomfortable. Thermal problems should be fixed before addressing the heating system. Once the building enclosure is properly treated, the distribution system can usually be adjusted for better balance.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6d24\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2bf0\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"13d5\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"31dc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air leaks in a duct system can have an enormous effect on your house. Duct leaks rob a furnace, heat pump, or central air system of energy\\u2014 sometimes close to half. Leaks can cause comfort problems, drive moisture flows, and sometimes even lead to dangerous back drafting of combustion equipment. Leaky basement ducts don\\u2019t usually waste much energy; sealing them is pretty easy, but there\\u2019s not much value to it. But ducts located in attics, garages, or vented crawlspaces can be a big energy problem. Sealing them can be the biggest opportunity for energy savings in many homes. Leaky ducts do more than let heat out. They also increase the air exchange in a house by 30 percent to 300 percent whenever the air handler is running. That is why furnaces have the reputation for drying out houses. Return leaks in a mechanical room or basement can backdraft a nearby water heater or even the furnace itself. Return leaks can also draw in radon gas, water vapor, subsoil pesticides, or airborne mold spores, distributing them throughout the house.<\\/p><p>Supply air leaking into an attic or enclosed cathedral ceiling cavity can deliver moisture at an accelerated rate to cold roof sheathing, causing condensation. If the ducts also carry central air-conditioning, return leaks can bring in outdoor humidity in the summer, reducing cooling efficiency, and leaks can draw outside air into building cavities, where moisture can lead to mold inside the house. Duct leaks are even more important than shell air leaks: Each hole and crack is under pressure from the furnace fan and leaks the hot air from your furnace (or cold air from your air conditioner).<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"582f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic1.png\",\"id\":2076},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"It\\u2019s important to peel back the insulation and vapor jacket to seal the duct connections. The black stains are from the air leaks.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"4896792\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Return ducts can be a bigger challenge. Return systems are frequently patched together using a combination of plywood, sheet metal, joist or wall cavities, and a lot of wishful thinking. Many HVAC installers don\\u2019t pay much attention to returns, focusing mostly on supplies that get the air to where it\\u2019s supposed to go. But well-sealed returns are important for furnace efficiency, occupant health and safety, and building durability. Fortunately, it\\u2019s not typically necessary to seal ducts that are buried inside interior wall and floor cavities. However, you do want to ensure that those cavities don\\u2019t leak to outside spaces; if they do, seal those leaks at the thermal boundary to keep the ducts and the indoor air inside.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"cab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct insulation\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7ee\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Ductwork that runs through unconditioned space should be insulated, if it is not already. Typically, supply ducts are insulated but often have weak spots at register boots and other major connections. Often, return ductwork is left uninsulated.<\\/p><p>Ducts should be insulated with vinyl-faced fiberglass wrap; R-6 is the minimum allowed by current residential codes; R-8 is required for supply ducts in attics. If possible, attic ducts should have higher R-values. Think about it: In winter, attic temperatures are nearly as cold as outdoors; in summer (for air-conditioning ducts), they are often much hotter than outdoors. If the ducts are close to the attic floor, cover them completely with loose-fill insulation. If that is not possible, try to find R-10 or higher duct wrap. Of course, seal all the duct connections tightly before insulating.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6e76\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6100\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"686f\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"474f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7f67\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnaces\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6380\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The furnace is by far the most common type of heating system in the country. In fact, it\\u2019s so common that many people use the word furnace to describe any type of heating equipment. Furnaces create heat by burning fuel, usually natural gas. Oil and liquefied petroleum (LP, or propane) gas are also used in areas where piped gas is unavailable. By contrast, heat pumps and electric furnaces use electricity to heat the air; they also use a duct system to deliver heat, but they are not furnaces and do not have a fuel supply, chimney, or vent pipe. Boilers burn gas or oil but create hot water or steam instead of warm air. Furnace efficiency can be improved by performing regular maintenance, improving airflow, adjusting control settings, and sealing leaky ductwork.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a91f30b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic2.jpg\",\"id\":2077},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"3182\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Regular maintenance\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a47\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Regular furnace maintenance is important to keep things running well, just as with any machine, but tune-ups and filter replacements don\\u2019t really save energy. Be sure to change the filter once or twice a year; more frequently is not much benefit because filters actually work better once some dust has built up on them. If the filter never gets dirty, however, then you may have a duct leak that is causing a loss of efficiency. Keeping registers open and free of obstructions may help your comfort, but this also won\\u2019t affect your energy bills noticeably.<\\/p><p>\\u00a0<\\/p><p>If you have a gas furnace, you should have it cleaned and tuned every two to four years. An oil burner should be tuned every year. Don\\u2019t wait until cold weather hits\\u2014that\\u2019s when the service companies are busy. You may get a better price if you get the tune-up in the spring.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"628b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic3.png\",\"id\":2078},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"Air filters should be replaced occasionally for best furnace performance. This pleated filter is more effective than the standard cheap fiberglass filter, and it doesn\\u2019t cost much more.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"1138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Low airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"135\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Low airflow can also reduce furnace efficiency. It can be caused by clogged air-conditioning coils, low fan speed settings, loose fan drive belts, undersized ductwork, or duct obstructions. Sometimes airflow is low to one room or section of the house, causing discomfort. Diagnosing low airflow is complex, but once identified, the fixes are usually fairly easy and inexpensive. These improvements are probably better left to a professional, but it\\u2019s good to be informed, because many technicians don\\u2019t bother checking airflow. If a service person is unable to explain in sensible terms what is happening in your system, you may want to get an opinion from another technician.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25e6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnace Tune-Up\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5fc9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"A professional tune-up for a gas furnace includes cleaning the burner and heat exchanger, checking the adjustment of air and fuel flow, cleaning and checking the heat exchanger for leaks, and testing draft pressure and carbon monoxide levels. The air-handler fan should be cleaned and lubricated as needed, once every two or three tune-ups. In addition, internal controls may be checked and adjusted if necessary. Don\\u2019t expect any real energy savings from a gas furnace tune-up; every two to four years is often enough. Oil burners are more finicky than gas burners. Most oil furnaces benefit from annual professional service; fuel filters, burner nozzles, electrodes, combustion chamber, heat exchanger, and flue pipe all need regular cleaning and adjustment. Checking heat exchangers and testing combustion efficiency are also useful. Try to find a technician who is knowledgeable, methodical, and thorough. If you have an oil furnace, the service technician might also recommend installing a smaller oil nozzle. This can reduce the heat output of the furnace, better matching it to the house and increasing operating efficiency slightly.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"9578043\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnace control settings\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9ea347a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The furnace controls can also have an impact on efficiency. The blower control, located above the heat exchanger, turns on the blower when it senses heat from the burner. The fan-on temperature should be set so the blower comes on between 90\\u00b0F and 105\\u00b0F; if it\\u2019s set too high, the burner will fire for a long time before the fan comes on, letting excess heat go up the chimney. If it\\u2019s set too low, the circulating air may feel uncomfortably cool.<\\/p><p>\\u00a0<\\/p><p>The fan-off temperature must be slightly lower than the fan-on temperature: between 85\\u00b0F and 100\\u00b0F. The lower it is set, the longer the fan will run at the end of the cycle when the thermostat turns off the burners, moving residual heat from the heat exchanger to your house. If your fan-on and fan-off temperatures are fixed (rather than adjustable) and set too high, the control can be replaced. Note that the temperature markings on adjustable controls are often poorly calibrated. Verify the actual fan-on and fan-off temperatures with a thermometer in the supply plenum.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5fdc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2ddf\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"20d1\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7e09\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6857\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat Pumps\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2ae9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Air-source heat pumps, popular in some parts of the country, are basically air conditioners that can work in reverse to deliver heat into the house in winter. Heat pumps provide heating and cooling in one machine, with one duct system and no combustion. Heat pumps are not subject to backdrafting, combustion air requirements, or some of the offcycle losses to which furnaces are prone. Because they use ducts to deliver warm air to the house, heat pump ducts in attics, garages, and crawlspaces must be sealed thoroughly and insulated well. Heat pumps are more prone to airflow problems than furnaces are, and improper refrigerant charging can have a negative impact on both heating and cooling efficiency. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"17ee\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Operating efficiency and resistance heating\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4720\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat pumps are rated using Heating System Performance Factor, or HSPF. An HSPF of 6.8 corresponds to an efficiency of 200 percent. Most new heat pumps vary from 7.3 to about 10 HSPF; the larger the number, the more efficient the unit. An HSPF of 10 is approximately equal to 290-percent efficient\\u2014for every kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity you buy, you get almost 3 kWh of heat delivered to your house. How can a heat pump generate more energy than it consumes? The difference is made up by heat energy absorbed from the outdoor air. That energy goes into the system; because it\\u2019s free, it\\u2019s not counted in the measurement of efficiency. Most heat pumps, by themselves, operate at reasonable efficiencies until outside air temperatures drop to about 35\\u00b0F to 40\\u00b0F. As the outdoor air gets colder, less heat is available, and the heat pump output drops off, even as the house needs more heat. So cold-weather performance is typically supplemented with electric-resistance backup heaters. This auxiliary heat costs about three times more per unit of heat than the compressor heating cycle. That may be fine in regions with long summers, mild winters, and relatively low electric rates, but it\\u2019s not in much of the North, where electricity is expensive and winters are cold. One fairly inexpensive way to reduce the use of electric-resistance heating is to install an outdoor cutout thermostat. For about $100 to $150 installed, this device locks out the supplemental electric heat when the outdoor air temperature is above 30\\u00b0F or 35\\u00b0F.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5977\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7a9c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat pumps are even more sensitive to airflow than furnaces are. Heat pumps need to move a larger volume of air, but installers who are used to working with furnaces sometimes skimp on duct sizing, leading to low-airflow problems. Unfortunately, checking the airflow of a heat pump is not as easy as checking that of a furnace. It can be done with special instruments or with a version of the temperature-rise method used with the electric-resistance backup heat. Don\\u2019t attempt to take these measurements unless you understand exactly what you are doing\\u2014if you aren\\u2019t sure, get a service technician to do it for you. For best efficiency, heat pump airflow should be 375 CFM to 425 CFM per ton of heating capacity. It should never be below 300 CFM per ton. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour, and equipment is typically rated in increments of 1\\u20442 ton, such as \\u201c24\\u201d (\\u00d71,000 Btu, or 2 tons), \\u201c30\\u201d (21\\u20442 tons), \\u201c36\\u201d (3 tons), etc.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a563a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Refrigerant charge\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1d32d86\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Older heat pumps are also finicky about refrigerant charge. Many heat pumps, even when serviced regularly, are either over- or undercharged, which has a negative impact on efficiency. Unfortunately, many service technicians don\\u2019t take the time to diagnose or correct those problems; they typically get the system working and move on to the next service call. To measure charge correctly, airflow must be in the recommended range, and few technicians test airflow as a matter of course. There are very specific ways to measure refrigerant charge during unit operation. Depending on the type of unit, the superheat or subcooling must be measured carefully, as it is for an air conditioner. There are also several automated systems on the market today that trained technicians can use to analyze heat pump operation. Newer high-efficiency models should also be properly charged, but they are more forgiving of varying charge conditions and their efficiency doesn\\u2019t suffer as much.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"10b1fd1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat pump service\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"e514960\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Like furnaces, heat pumps should be serviced regularly. Basic service can be done by anyone. Air filters should be replaced once or twice a year, as needed, and the outdoor coil should be kept free of snow and debris. Regular service calls\\u2014 typically every two to three years\\u2014should include testing the controls, cleaning the blower and both the indoor and the outdoor coils as needed, and checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines. To service your heat pump, try to find a contractor whose technicians are certified by North American Technician Excellence (NATE, see www.hvacradvice.com), or who demonstrates a commitment to attending manufacturers\\u2019 programs frequently. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing airflow problems, then carefully measuring and correcting refrigerant charge. Once that has been done, service technicians generally should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless the system performance drops off or there is other evidence that something is wrong. Refrigerant does not escape unless there is a leak.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"de2ded1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic4.png\",\"id\":2079},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"26e4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heatin_Pic5.png\",\"id\":2080},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"06769f8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ductless Heat Pumps\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5e85b4a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ductless heat pumps, often called minisplit heat pumps, are available in higher heating (and cooling) efficiencies than just about any other heat pumps on the market. The most efficient ones use an inverter-driven compressor, and variable speed fans that run continuously at a low speed to match the load in the house and minimize noise. One outdoor unit may be used with one or more indoor units that deliver heat and cooling to the house. Each indoor unit connects to the outdoor unit with a small bundle of pipes and wires that carry refrigerant and electricity, so there are no duct losses. Some models are designed for cold climate operation and maintain a high heating capacity and decent efficiency near 0\\u00b0F. A single mini-split makes a great heating and cooling system for a single-room addition or a deep energy remodel, or to offset electric resistance, oil, or LP gas heat.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"74415b8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ground-source heat pumps\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b12d517\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ground-source heat pumps (or GSHPs; often called geothermal heat pumps) extract heat from the earth or from underground water, rather than from outdoor air. Because temperatures are more stable underground, GSHP systems theoretically have much higher heating efficiencies than air-source heat pumps; rated Coefficient of Performance (COPs) range from about 3 to 5 (300 percent to 500 percent). There are two basic types of GSHP systems. Closed-loop (ground-loop) systems are usually more efficient but can be more expensive to install. Open-loop (groundwater or water source) systems usually cost less to install but can cost more to run, due to the power consumption of a large well pump that\\u2019s often required for these systems. A third type of GSHP, called direct exchange (DX), uses a copper pipe ground loop to circulate refrigerant underground. Their long-term reliability is less clear than that of closed loop water-based systems. Like air-source heat pumps, ground-source heat pumps can be cost-effective in regions with mild or hot climates and moderate electric rates, especially in areas where installation costs are modest. However, in regions with cold climates and high electric rates, they generally do not provide enough savings to justify the high installation cost. Ground-source heat pumps can also have very high cooling efficiencies. The heating capacity of GSHPs is much better in cold weather than that of conventional air-source heat pumps, so there is typically little or no need for supplemental electric heat. Closed-loop systems need little or no maintenance, but open-loop systems may have water-quality issues, filters that need replacing, and well pumps with shortened life expectancies.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"ad52eba\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ground-Source Heat Pump Efficiency\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"ccb4742\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Efficiency ratings for GSHPs come in three flavors: water loop, ground loop, and ground water. \\u201cWater loop\\u201d is used for commercial systems; \\u201cground loop\\u201d is used for closed loops; and \\u201cground water\\u201d for open loops. All of them rate the heating efficiency using a Coefficient of Performance, which is the ratio of heat out to electricity in: A COP of 3 represents a heating efficiency of 300 percent. There\\u2019s a trick to the GSHP performance ratings: You can\\u2019t achieve them in a real installation. The rating applies only to \\u201cthe box\\u201d itself and does not include most of the energy required to pump water or move air through the system. Depending on the installation, this can increase real operating costs between 20 percent and 100 percent (bringing a rated COP of 5 down to somewhere between 4 and 2.5). Despite marketing claims that GSHPs are \\u201crenewable\\u201d and \\u201cgreen,\\u201d they still run on electricity. Because electric generation and power lines are inefficient, a GSHP may actually be more expensive to run and generate more emissions than a high-efficiency natural gas furnace and AC system. GSHPs are, however, typically cheaper and cleaner than oil or LP gas heat. They are also quite expensive to install; my preference is to invest in a more efficient building enclosure.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6a56\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"dbf320a\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"9d22846\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"e535b22\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"871c427\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Electric-Resistance Heat\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor05\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b3e88de\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Most electric-resistance heating systems are simple electric baseboard heaters. There are also various types of radiant-heat systems (usually panels mounted on ceiling or walls, built into valances, or built into ceiling or wall-finish systems). Cheap to install but expensive to operate, electric-resistance heat operates on the same principle as that of a toaster or hot plate. An electric current passes through a wire element, heating it. Air passes through and is heated by fins in the baseboard. Electric-resistance heat is always 100-percent efficient; every kilowatt-hour of electricity that you pay for is converted to heat. The reason electric baseboards are expensive to operate is that electricity costs two to four times as much as natural gas. One advantage of electric heat is the ease with which rooms can be zoned. But with the high fuel cost and hidden emissions, it\\u2019s difficult to justify except in special situations, such as isolated rooms, or extremely mild climates like southern Florida or Hawaii. Because these systems are so simple, there is very little that can be done to improve their efficiency. Short of supplementing or completely replacing them, the best approach (as always) is to insulate and thoroughly seal the building to reduce heating loads.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25bca46\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic6.png\",\"id\":2085},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"An electric baseboard heater is its own distribution system and is usually precisely in the area where heat is desired, so there are no distribution losses like those found in ductwork.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"16865fd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Supplementing Electric Heat\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3574f96\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>A great way to reduce the cost of electric, LP or oil heat for a reasonable cost is with the installation of a variable speed ductless heat pump. The best systems are rated with an HSPF of 10 to 12, which means they use 65 percent to 70 percent less electricity per unit of delivered heat. Installing a single mini-split to heat a main living area can save 30 percent to 50 percent of a home\\u2019s heating bill (leaving the existing heat for remote rooms in cold weather), at an installed cost of $3,000 to $4,000. Ductless heat pumps also provide air-conditioning much more efficiently than do window units.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a34b211\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7c98\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1456\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1c64\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"5a38\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Hot-Water and Steam Boilers\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor06\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"654a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Boilers, an old standby in the Northeast, are becoming more popular around the country with the advent of radiant, hydro-air, and hybrid systems. Instead of heating air, a boiler heats water. The classic boiler system uses hydronic distribution. Water is heated by the boiler and pumped through pipes to hot-water radiators or baseboard fin-tube convectors to heat the house. Some older systems use a boiler to make steam, which expands to fill steam radiators without the need for a circulator pump. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"10abfe8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basic maintenance\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"387842d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Boiler maintenance is similar to that of a gas or oil furnace, but there is no blower fan to clean. Oil boilers should be serviced once a year, whereas gas boilers should be serviced every two to four years. Any swishing or gurgling sounds that you hear in the radiators indicate air trapped in the system, which reduces heat-exchange efficiency. A service technician can bleed out the air and show you how to do it if it is needed frequently. Occasionally, bleed valves may need to be installed or replaced. The technician should check the hydronic system pressure and expansion tank; the smallest leak anywhere in the system should be repaired immediately to prevent corrosion-causing oxygen from being brought in via makeup water connections.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a3b52bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Boiler controls and upgrades\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"8d5ab32\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"A typical hot-water boiler operates throughout the winter with a water temperature determined by the low-limit setting, a thermostatic switch that senses the water temperature inside the boiler and shuts off the burner when the water is hot enough. Standard boiler controls maintain full boiler temperature throughout the year, which is inefficient but necessary if a tankless coil water heater heats the domestic hot water. In the absence of a tankless coil, efficient boiler controls have a \\u201ccold start\\u201d feature that heats the boiler water only when it\\u2019s needed, and a \\u201cpurge\\u201d control that runs the circulating pump for a few minutes after the boiler shuts off, to extract any heat that remains inside. These controls, often standard or optional on new, high-efficiency models, can also be retrofitted to existing boilers\\u2014but you have to be careful. Cold-start boilers must be protected from condensing on start-up, which may take some extra piping and a thermic valve (made by DanfossR or Termovar) to maintain adequate return-water temperature. Many newer boilers designed for cold starting have this protection built in.\\n\\nAnother improvement for older boilers that don\\u2019t have good controls is a mechanical vent damper. This device closes off the flue pipe after the burner shuts off, stopping the flow of heat through the heat exchanger and up the chimney. It costs $125 to $350 installed. Don\\u2019t use a gravity-actuated vent damper that depends on the heat from the burner to stay open; they are much more likely to malfunction.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"c6c041c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Steam boilers\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"14ff0fc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Steam boilers are very different from hot water boilers. Steam systems were popular in the early 20th century, and many of them are still in service in older homes. Instead of relying on pumps to circulate hot water, steam boilers boil water to create steam. The steam naturally expands to fill all the pipes and radiators in the system, distributing heat throughout the house. Although steam-heat distribution is simple and reliable, steam boilers have a number of unique maintenance and efficiency issues. Most residential steam systems are one-pipe systems. When the thermostat calls for heat, the boiler fires and steam begins expanding to fill the system. As the steam expands, it displaces air contained in the pipes and radiators, and that air must be allowed to escape through air vents typically located on the side of each radiator. Once the steam reaches the radiator, the air vent senses the heat and closes, keeping the steam inside. As the steam emits heat through the radiator, it condenses to water and flows back via gravity through the same pipes to the boiler.\\n\\nAir-venting systems that aren\\u2019t working properly can lead to uneven heating, large temperature fluctuations, and discomfort. A tune-up can increase energy efficiency and comfort dramatically. If the air vents are too small, if there are not enough of them, or if they are clogged with mineral deposits, air gets trapped in the system, and the steam cannot reach its destination. Having a professional replace malfunctioning air vents, add extra vents to radiators, or add special high-volume air vents to large central supply pipes can improve steam-system efficiency by quickly getting the heat where it is needed. Thermostatically controlled vents can reduce the rate of steam delivery to some rooms, reducing overheating and improving overall comfort.\\n\\nA common problem with steam systems is too much pressure. The boiler pressure controls should be set just high enough so that the boiler shuts down just as each radiator fills with steam. Too much steam pressure increases the boiler\\u2019s cycling losses and leads to overheating. That can particularly be a problem if the building envelope\\u2019s efficiency is improved dramatically and\\/or some radiators are removed during remodeling. Timed-cycle controllers vary the boiler cycle length to match the outdoor temperature, further improving the system\\u2019s efficiency.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"705f6bb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"a5d58e6\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"962cc36\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4f84b4b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"b626660\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor07\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"cade1ab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Replacing a heating system with a newer, more efficient system is expensive, so it will typically have a long payback. However, if you have to replace a broken furnace or boiler, it is almost always cost-effective to select a high-efficiency system. However efficient (or inefficient) a house shell is, replacing a furnace from the mid-1980s or earlier with a 95-percent-efficient unit will save between 20 percent and 25 percent of the heating bill. Replacing an old boiler can save even more. On the other hand, if you have a 15-year-old unit that\\u2019s rated between 80-percent and 85-percent efficient, the savings will be much smaller. It\\u2019s probably better to spend your money on other efficiency projects. Finally, if you are planning a series of efficiency improvements to the house, it can be a good idea to complete them before upgrading equipment\\u2014you may be able to save some money by installing a smaller unit. If your existing heating system is functional but appears to be on its last legs, replacing it early can help avoid a big surprise. Deciding, rather than being forced, to replace a system reduces the panic factor and allows for a more reasoned choice. It may even reduce the cost a bit, because it won\\u2019t be an emergency call.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7861759\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Efficiency ratings\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9f83449\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>All new boilers and furnaces have standardized efficiency ratings, just like the gas-mileage ratings on automobiles. When selecting equipment, look for the highest efficiency ratings. Furnaces and boilers use Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE), which accounts for burner efficiency, pilot fuel, and off-cycle losses. New gas furnaces and boilers have AFUEs of 80 per-cent to 97 percent. AFUE ratings are available from manufacturers or at <a href=\\\"http:\\/\\/www.ahridirectory.org\\\">www.ahridirectory.org<\\/a>. Air-source heat pumps are rated using HSPF; GSHPs are rated using COP. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and Department of Energy (DOE) maintain a listing of high-efficiency equipment on their Energy Star website (<a href=\\\"http:\\/\\/www.energystar.gov\\/\\\">www.energystar.gov\\/<\\/a> products); always look for the Energy Star label, which indicates that the equipment meets certain above-minimum efficiency standards set by the government. Remember that the ratings apply to only the equipment. Installation problems, improper maintenance, and distribution problems (such as duct leakage) can reduce performance dramatically. Also remember that there are many products that exceed the Energy Star minimum standards; it\\u2019s still worth shopping for the highest-efficiency unit you can find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"432bc52\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic7.png\",\"id\":2089},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"The yellow Energy Guide label indicates the efficiency rating of new equipment and provides a comparison among similar 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