(1738,2,'2018-06-27 02:09:07','2018-06-27 02:09:07','<h2>Hudson Light & Power Department</h2>		\n			<h5>SERVING THE TOWN OF HUDSON, STOW, BERLIN, BOLTON, AND MARLBOROUGH</h5>		\n		<p>Hudson Light and Power Department (HLPD) is a not-for-profit municipal electric utility serving Hudson, Stow, and parts of surrounding communities. HLPD is proud of its reputation for providing high quality service at the most economical price possible. HLPD’s motto - \"We\'re here to serve you!\" - describes how it conducts business every day.</p>		\n			<a href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/\" role=\"button\">\n						VISIT HLPD\'S WEBSITE\n					</a>\n										<img width=\"200\" height=\"200\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/hudson2.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/hudson2.png 200w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/hudson2-150x150.png 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 200px) 100vw, 200px\" />											\n			<h3>Rebates</h3>		\n		<table width=\"630\"><tbody><tr><td width=\"219\"><b>INCENTIVE OFFERINGS</b></td><td width=\"189\"><b>RESIDENTIAL</b></td><td width=\"222\"><b>COMMERCIAL</b></td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Home Energy Assessment</td><td width=\"189\">Free</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Air Purifier*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Room Air Conditioner*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric Clothes Dryer*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Clothes Washer*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Dehumidifier*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Dishwasher*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Freezer*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Refrigerator*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Residential Online Lighting Store</td><td width=\"189\">✓</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Central A/C</td><td width=\"189\">50% up to $500 ($500 max per year)</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Ductless Electric Heat Pumps</td><td width=\"189\">$500 max</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric/Air Source/Geo-Thermal Pumps</td><td width=\"189\">$500 max</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric Car Battery Charger Rebate*</td><td width=\"189\">50% up to $250</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Solar - Range 1 Panel Orientation</td><td width=\"189\">$1.00/W - $5,000 max</td><td width=\"222\">$1.00/W - $5,000 max</td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Solar - Range 2 Panel Orientation</td><td width=\"189\">$1.25/W - $6,000 max</td><td width=\"222\">$1.25/W - $6,000 max</td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric Heat Pump Water Heater**</td><td width=\"189\">50% up to $750</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Commercial Energy Assessment</td><td width=\"189\"> </td><td width=\"222\">50%</td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Energy Efficiency Rebate</td><td width=\"189\"> </td><td width=\"222\">50% of total improvement cost, max varies by customer grouping</td></tr></tbody></table><p>*<i>$250 max per customer per calendar year</i><br /><i>**$750 max per customer per calendar year</i></p>		\n			<h4>Energy Saving Rebates and Programs</h4>		\n												ENERGY STAR® APPLIANCE REBATES					\n					<p>Residents who purchase an ENERGY STAR clothes washer, electric clothes dryer, dish washer, refrigerator, freezer, dehumidifier, room air conditioner, or air purifier may apply for the <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_Residential_Appliance_Rebate%20Program.pdf\"><u>ENERGY STAR Appliance Rebate</u>.</a></p>\n												HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Energy New England (ENE) provides conservation services for the residential customers of its partnering utilities. ENE’s highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">Home Energy Assessment</u></a> or <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/danvers-electric-division-ded/?elementor-preview=1305&amp;ver=1529971295#\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">SIGNUP</u></a> today.<br />For more information on how ENE can help you, please call 508-698-1208 or email <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">solutions@ene.org</u></a>.</p>\n												ONLINE LIGHTING STORE					\n					<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">HLPD has partnered with the Energy Federation to bring residential customers discounted CFL and LED bulbs. Visit HLPD’s <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.energyfederation.org/hudson/\">Online Store</a> for further information.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">CENTRAL AIR CONDITIONING AND HEAT PUMP REBATE</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Residents who have a qualified contractor install ENERGY STAR central air conditioning or an electric heat pump may apply for a <a style=\"font-size: 16px;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_Residential_Heating_Cooling_Rebate_Program.pdf\">Rebate Credit</a> of up to $500. For ENERGY STAR qualification ratings see below:</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\"><a style=\"font-size: 16px;\" href=\"https://www.energystar.gov/products/heating_cooling/heat_pumps_air_source/key_product_criteria\">Air Source Heat Pumps and Central Air Conditioners</a></p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\"><a style=\"font-size: 16px;\" href=\"https://www.energystar.gov/products/heating_cooling/heat_pumps_geothermal/key_product_criteria\">Geo-Thermal Heat Pumps</a></p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">HEAT PUMP WATER HEATER REBATE</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Residents who purchase and install a qualified ENERGY STAR electric fuel source heat pump water heater may apply for a <a style=\"font-size: 16px;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_Residential_Heat_Pump_Water_%20Heater_Rebate.pdf\">Rebate Credit</a> of up to $750.  </p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">For further information on ENERGY STAR certified electric fuel source heat pump water heaters visit <a style=\"font-size: 16px;\" href=\"https://www.energystar.gov/productfinder/product/certified-water-heaters\">ENERGY STAR</a>.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Filter for the following:</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">&#8220;Fuel Source&#8221; = Electric       &#8220;Type&#8221; = Heat Pump</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Look for pumps with a Uniformed Energy Factor of 2.3 or greater.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">ELECTRIC CAR BATTERY CHARGER REBATE</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Residents who purchase an ENERGY STAR qualified electric car battery charger may apply for a <a style=\"font-size: 16px;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_Residential_Electric_Car_Charger_Rebate_Program.pdf\">Rebate Credit</a> of up to $250.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">PHOTOVOLTAIC (PV) INCENTIVE PROGRAM</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">For photovoltaic (PV) installations, HLPD offers a rebate of $1 or $1.25 per watt of installed capacity depending upon orientation. For further information, please see the <a style=\"font-size: 16px;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_PV_Rebate.pdf\">Terms and Conditions within the PV Incentive Program Application</a> and <a style=\"font-size: 16px;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/DG_Installation_Requirements.pdf\">Distributed General Installation Requirements</a>.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">HLPD purchases excess generation from customers with Distributed Generation (DG), such as solar, wind turbines, etc., at a tariff based upon the monthly <a style=\"font-size: 16px;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/Rates.pdf\">Power Adjustment Charge</a>.  </p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">COMMERCIAL AND INDUSTRIAL ENERGY EFFICIENCY REBATES</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">HLPD offers business and municipal customers financial incentives to replace inefficient lighting and to update across-the-line starters with variable-frequency drives on existing motors. For further information, please see the <a style=\"font-size: 16px;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD%20Commercial%20Energy%20Efficiency%20Rebate%20Program.pdf\">Commercial &amp; Industrial Energy Efficiency Rebate Application</a>.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">COMMERCIAL AND INDUSTRIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENTS</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Business and municipal customers interested in improving their energy efficiency can contact Energy New England (ENE) at 888-772-4242 to schedule an <a style=\"font-size: 16px;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_Commercial_Energy_Audit.pdf\">Energy or Lighting Assessment</a>. The assessment will be partially subsidized by HLPD.</p>\n												SOLAR REBATE					\n					<p>HMLP will offer a rebate in the form of a credit on the bills of customers who install and own a photovoltaic system at their home in Hingham. The amount of the rebate will vary according to the capacity of the photovoltaic system. There is a cap of $5,000 per account. The HMLP will rebate $1,000/kW x the rated output of the system or $5,000, whichever is less. For example, an HMLP customer who installs a photovoltaic system at their home in Hingham and whose system has a rated output of 2.5kW will receive a rebate credit on their bill of $2,500. If that same customer installed a system with a rated output of 10kW, they would receive a rebate credit on their bill of $5,000. If they installed a system with a rated output of 5kW they will receive a rebate of $5,000.</p><p><a href=\"http://hmlp.com/RatesBilling/NetMeteringRates.asp\"><u>Information About Net Metering</u></a></p>\n												WEATHERIZATION REBATE					\n					<p>HMLP will offer a rebate of 50% with a cap of $500 per account in the form of a credit on the bills of customers who make certain energy efficiency improvements to their existing Hingham home and are an electric heat customer or a customer who has central air. Weatherization as a part of new construction is not eligible for a rebate. Additions on existing homes are considered new construction. To apply for a rebate, HMLP residential customers should arrange and energy assessment through HMLP. Eligible improvements must come recommended in the assessment and have a payback of less than 10 years. Eligible improvements include:</p><ul><li>Insulation of the attic, wall, floor, crawlspace, or rim joist</li><li>Air sealing measures such as weatherstripping, caulking, or the installation of interior storm windows</li></ul><p>All receipts for materials associated with the energy efficiency improvements should be saved if the homeowner uses self-labor. A dollar value for self-labor is not eligible for a rebate.</p>\n												COMMERCIAL ENERGY/LIGHTING/HVAC ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>Commercial properties can now receive Energy Assessments that cover lighting and HVAC equipment. To schedule an assessment please call Energy New England (ENE) at <b>1-888-772-4242</b>.</p><p>HMLP has contracted with certified commercial and industrial specialists (ENE) to provide energy management studies and to develop a plan of action for each energy conservation measure identified. The assessments cover such end-uses as lighting, heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC). The specialist develops energy conservation measures that are end-use specific based upon standard engineering analysis as well as cost estimates derived from experience or other similar projects. HMLP has structured the program so that the customer pays one third (1/3) of the cost of the assessment. The remaining two thirds (2/3) of the cost of the assessment will be paid for by HMLP. HMLP’s portion will range from $500 to $3,750.</p>\n												COMMERCIAL LIGHTING RETROFIT REBATES					\n					<p>HMLP offers a Commercial Lighting Retrofit Rebate Program to its commercial, industrial, and municipal customers that retrofit inefficient interior lighting systems, or convert outdoor lighting to Light Emitting Diode (LED). The lighting rebate applies to the retrofitting of existing: </p><ul><li>T12 fluorescent lamps with magnetic ballast to T5 or T8 lamps with electronic ballasts</li><li>T12 high output or high intensity discharge (HID) fixtures to T5 or T8 high output with electronic ballasts</li><li>Compact fluorescent lamp (CFL) exit signs with new Light Emitting Diode (LED), Electroluminescent, or Photo luminescent exit signs</li><li>High pressure sodium, mercury vapor, or incandescent outdoor lighting to LED</li><li>The installation of occupancy sensors &#8211; passive infrared and/or ultrasonic detectors only with no manual ON or override switches </li></ul><p>HMLP caps the rebate amount at 50% of the project with a maximum of $4,000 per account. The rebate amount is credited to the customer account</p>\n												HVAC SYSTEM REBATES					\n					<p>Industry studies indicate that facility HVAC equipment represents approximately 31% of potential electric savings and 33% (over 2,000 kW) of potential Peak kW Demand reduction. An HVAC program has been developed by a Consortium for Energy Efficiency. HMLP’s HVAC program will be geared toward commercial/industrial customers who utilize roof top units (RTUs). The program will encourage customers to purchase high efficiency units for new applications or when replacing failed units. Rebates will be developed based on the tonnage of the unit as well as the efficiency. HMLP intends to develop a program similar to the Consortium’s “Cool Choice” program (details to be provided). Due to the technical nature of motors and HVAC systems, HMLP envisions creating the specifics of this program with the ENE specialists.</p><p><i>The HMLP reserves the right to change any portion of this program or end the program at any time without notice.</i></p>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Hudson Light & Power Department (HLPD)','','inherit','closed','closed','','1382-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 02:09:07','2018-06-27 02:09:07','',1382,'http://ee.ene.org/1382-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0);
INSERT INTO `wp_posts` VALUES (1739,2,'2018-06-27 02:10:25','2018-06-27 02:10:25','<h2>Hudson Light & Power Department</h2>		\n			<h5>SERVING THE TOWN OF HUDSON, STOW, BERLIN, BOLTON, AND MARLBOROUGH</h5>		\n		<p>Hudson Light and Power Department (HLPD) is a not-for-profit municipal electric utility serving Hudson, Stow, and parts of surrounding communities. HLPD is proud of its reputation for providing high quality service at the most economical price possible. HLPD’s motto - \"We\'re here to serve you!\" - describes how it conducts business every day.</p>		\n			<a href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/\" role=\"button\">\n						VISIT HLPD\'S WEBSITE\n					</a>\n										<img width=\"200\" height=\"200\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/hudson2.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/hudson2.png 200w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/hudson2-150x150.png 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 200px) 100vw, 200px\" />											\n			<h3>Rebates</h3>		\n		<table width=\"630\"><tbody><tr><td width=\"219\"><b>INCENTIVE OFFERINGS</b></td><td width=\"189\"><b>RESIDENTIAL</b></td><td width=\"222\"><b>COMMERCIAL</b></td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Home Energy Assessment</td><td width=\"189\">Free</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Air Purifier*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Room Air Conditioner*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric Clothes Dryer*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Clothes Washer*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Dehumidifier*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Dishwasher*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Freezer*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Refrigerator*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Residential Online Lighting Store</td><td width=\"189\">✓</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Central A/C</td><td width=\"189\">50% up to $500 ($500 max per year)</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Ductless Electric Heat Pumps</td><td width=\"189\">$500 max</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric/Air Source/Geo-Thermal Pumps</td><td width=\"189\">$500 max</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric Car Battery Charger Rebate*</td><td width=\"189\">50% up to $250</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Solar - Range 1 Panel Orientation</td><td width=\"189\">$1.00/W - $5,000 max</td><td width=\"222\">$1.00/W - $5,000 max</td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Solar - Range 2 Panel Orientation</td><td width=\"189\">$1.25/W - $6,000 max</td><td width=\"222\">$1.25/W - $6,000 max</td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric Heat Pump Water Heater**</td><td width=\"189\">50% up to $750</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Commercial Energy Assessment</td><td width=\"189\"> </td><td width=\"222\">50%</td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Energy Efficiency Rebate</td><td width=\"189\"> </td><td width=\"222\">50% of total improvement cost, max varies by customer grouping</td></tr></tbody></table><p>*<i>$250 max per customer per calendar year</i><br /><i>**$750 max per customer per calendar year</i></p>		\n			<h4>Energy Saving Rebates and Programs</h4>		\n												ENERGY STAR® APPLIANCE REBATES					\n					<p>Residents who purchase an ENERGY STAR clothes washer, electric clothes dryer, dish washer, refrigerator, freezer, dehumidifier, room air conditioner, or air purifier may apply for the <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_Residential_Appliance_Rebate%20Program.pdf\"><u>ENERGY STAR Appliance Rebate</u>.</a></p>\n												HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Energy New England (ENE) provides conservation services for the residential customers of its partnering utilities. ENE’s highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">Home Energy Assessment</u></a> or <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/danvers-electric-division-ded/?elementor-preview=1305&amp;ver=1529971295#\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">SIGNUP</u></a> today.<br />For more information on how ENE can help you, please call 508-698-1208 or email <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">solutions@ene.org</u></a>.</p>\n												ONLINE LIGHTING STORE					\n					<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">HLPD has partnered with the Energy Federation to bring residential customers discounted CFL and LED bulbs. Visit HLPD’s <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.energyfederation.org/hudson/\"><u>Online Store</u></a> for further information.</p>\n												CENTRAL AIR CONDITIONING AND HEAT PUMP REBATE					\n					<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Residents who have a qualified contractor install ENERGY STAR central air conditioning or an electric heat pump may apply for a <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_Residential_Heating_Cooling_Rebate_Program.pdf\">Rebate Credit</a> of up to $500. For ENERGY STAR qualification ratings see below:</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\"><a style=\"font-size: 16px;\" href=\"https://www.energystar.gov/products/heating_cooling/heat_pumps_air_source/key_product_criteria\">Air Source Heat Pumps and Central Air Conditioners</a></p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\"><a style=\"font-size: 16px;\" href=\"https://www.energystar.gov/products/heating_cooling/heat_pumps_geothermal/key_product_criteria\">Geo-Thermal Heat Pumps</a></p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\"> </p>\n												WEATHERIZATION REBATE					\n					<p>HMLP will offer a rebate of 50% with a cap of $500 per account in the form of a credit on the bills of customers who make certain energy efficiency improvements to their existing Hingham home and are an electric heat customer or a customer who has central air. Weatherization as a part of new construction is not eligible for a rebate. Additions on existing homes are considered new construction. To apply for a rebate, HMLP residential customers should arrange and energy assessment through HMLP. Eligible improvements must come recommended in the assessment and have a payback of less than 10 years. Eligible improvements include:</p><ul><li>Insulation of the attic, wall, floor, crawlspace, or rim joist</li><li>Air sealing measures such as weatherstripping, caulking, or the installation of interior storm windows</li></ul><p>All receipts for materials associated with the energy efficiency improvements should be saved if the homeowner uses self-labor. A dollar value for self-labor is not eligible for a rebate.</p>\n												COMMERCIAL ENERGY/LIGHTING/HVAC ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>Commercial properties can now receive Energy Assessments that cover lighting and HVAC equipment. To schedule an assessment please call Energy New England (ENE) at <b>1-888-772-4242</b>.</p><p>HMLP has contracted with certified commercial and industrial specialists (ENE) to provide energy management studies and to develop a plan of action for each energy conservation measure identified. The assessments cover such end-uses as lighting, heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC). The specialist develops energy conservation measures that are end-use specific based upon standard engineering analysis as well as cost estimates derived from experience or other similar projects. HMLP has structured the program so that the customer pays one third (1/3) of the cost of the assessment. The remaining two thirds (2/3) of the cost of the assessment will be paid for by HMLP. HMLP’s portion will range from $500 to $3,750.</p>\n												COMMERCIAL LIGHTING RETROFIT REBATES					\n					<p>HMLP offers a Commercial Lighting Retrofit Rebate Program to its commercial, industrial, and municipal customers that retrofit inefficient interior lighting systems, or convert outdoor lighting to Light Emitting Diode (LED). The lighting rebate applies to the retrofitting of existing: </p><ul><li>T12 fluorescent lamps with magnetic ballast to T5 or T8 lamps with electronic ballasts</li><li>T12 high output or high intensity discharge (HID) fixtures to T5 or T8 high output with electronic ballasts</li><li>Compact fluorescent lamp (CFL) exit signs with new Light Emitting Diode (LED), Electroluminescent, or Photo luminescent exit signs</li><li>High pressure sodium, mercury vapor, or incandescent outdoor lighting to LED</li><li>The installation of occupancy sensors &#8211; passive infrared and/or ultrasonic detectors only with no manual ON or override switches </li></ul><p>HMLP caps the rebate amount at 50% of the project with a maximum of $4,000 per account. The rebate amount is credited to the customer account</p>\n												HVAC SYSTEM REBATES					\n					<p>Industry studies indicate that facility HVAC equipment represents approximately 31% of potential electric savings and 33% (over 2,000 kW) of potential Peak kW Demand reduction. An HVAC program has been developed by a Consortium for Energy Efficiency. HMLP’s HVAC program will be geared toward commercial/industrial customers who utilize roof top units (RTUs). The program will encourage customers to purchase high efficiency units for new applications or when replacing failed units. Rebates will be developed based on the tonnage of the unit as well as the efficiency. HMLP intends to develop a program similar to the Consortium’s “Cool Choice” program (details to be provided). Due to the technical nature of motors and HVAC systems, HMLP envisions creating the specifics of this program with the ENE specialists.</p><p><i>The HMLP reserves the right to change any portion of this program or end the program at any time without notice.</i></p>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Hudson Light & Power Department (HLPD)','','inherit','closed','closed','','1382-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 02:10:25','2018-06-27 02:10:25','',1382,'http://ee.ene.org/1382-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1740,2,'2018-06-27 02:12:40','2018-06-27 02:12:40','<h2>Hudson Light & Power Department</h2>		\n			<h5>SERVING THE TOWN OF HUDSON, STOW, BERLIN, BOLTON, AND MARLBOROUGH</h5>		\n		<p>Hudson Light and Power Department (HLPD) is a not-for-profit municipal electric utility serving Hudson, Stow, and parts of surrounding communities. HLPD is proud of its reputation for providing high quality service at the most economical price possible. HLPD’s motto - \"We\'re here to serve you!\" - describes how it conducts business every day.</p>		\n			<a href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/\" role=\"button\">\n						VISIT HLPD\'S WEBSITE\n					</a>\n										<img width=\"200\" height=\"200\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/hudson2.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/hudson2.png 200w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/hudson2-150x150.png 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 200px) 100vw, 200px\" />											\n			<h3>Rebates</h3>		\n		<table width=\"630\"><tbody><tr><td width=\"219\"><b>INCENTIVE OFFERINGS</b></td><td width=\"189\"><b>RESIDENTIAL</b></td><td width=\"222\"><b>COMMERCIAL</b></td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Home Energy Assessment</td><td width=\"189\">Free</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Air Purifier*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Room Air Conditioner*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric Clothes Dryer*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Clothes Washer*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Dehumidifier*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Dishwasher*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Freezer*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Refrigerator*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Residential Online Lighting Store</td><td width=\"189\">✓</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Central A/C</td><td width=\"189\">50% up to $500 ($500 max per year)</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Ductless Electric Heat Pumps</td><td width=\"189\">$500 max</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric/Air Source/Geo-Thermal Pumps</td><td width=\"189\">$500 max</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric Car Battery Charger Rebate*</td><td width=\"189\">50% up to $250</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Solar - Range 1 Panel Orientation</td><td width=\"189\">$1.00/W - $5,000 max</td><td width=\"222\">$1.00/W - $5,000 max</td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Solar - Range 2 Panel Orientation</td><td width=\"189\">$1.25/W - $6,000 max</td><td width=\"222\">$1.25/W - $6,000 max</td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric Heat Pump Water Heater**</td><td width=\"189\">50% up to $750</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Commercial Energy Assessment</td><td width=\"189\"> </td><td width=\"222\">50%</td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Energy Efficiency Rebate</td><td width=\"189\"> </td><td width=\"222\">50% of total improvement cost, max varies by customer grouping</td></tr></tbody></table><p>*<i>$250 max per customer per calendar year</i><br /><i>**$750 max per customer per calendar year</i></p>		\n			<h4>Energy Saving Rebates and Programs</h4>		\n												ENERGY STAR® APPLIANCE REBATES					\n					<p>Residents who purchase an ENERGY STAR clothes washer, electric clothes dryer, dish washer, refrigerator, freezer, dehumidifier, room air conditioner, or air purifier may apply for the <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_Residential_Appliance_Rebate%20Program.pdf\"><u>ENERGY STAR Appliance Rebate</u>.</a></p>\n												HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Energy New England (ENE) provides conservation services for the residential customers of its partnering utilities. ENE’s highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">Home Energy Assessment</u></a> or <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/danvers-electric-division-ded/?elementor-preview=1305&amp;ver=1529971295#\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">SIGNUP</u></a> today.<br />For more information on how ENE can help you, please call 508-698-1208 or email <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">solutions@ene.org</u></a>.</p>\n												ONLINE LIGHTING STORE					\n					<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">HLPD has partnered with the Energy Federation to bring residential customers discounted CFL and LED bulbs. Visit HLPD’s <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.energyfederation.org/hudson/\"><u>Online Store</u></a> for further information.</p>\n												HEAT PUMP WATER HEATER REBATE					\n					<p>Residents who purchase and install a qualified ENERGY STAR electric fuel source heat pump water heater may apply for a <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_Residential_Heat_Pump_Water_%20Heater_Rebate.pdf\">Rebate Credit</a> of up to $750.  </p><p>For further information on ENERGY STAR certified electric fuel source heat pump water heaters visit <a href=\"https://www.energystar.gov/productfinder/product/certified-water-heaters\">ENERGY STAR</a>.</p><p>Filter for the following:</p><p>&#8220;Fuel Source&#8221; = Electric       &#8220;Type&#8221; = Heat Pump</p><p>Look for pumps with a Uniformed Energy Factor of 2.3 or greater.</p>\n												ELECTRIC CAR BATTERY CHARGER REBATE					\n					<p>Residents who purchase an ENERGY STAR qualified electric car battery charger may apply for a <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_Residential_Electric_Car_Charger_Rebate_Program.pdf\"><u>Rebate Credit</u></a> of up to $250.</p>\n												PHOTOVOLTAIC (PV) INCENTIVE PROGRAM					\n					<p>For photovoltaic (PV) installations, HLPD offers a rebate of $1 or $1.25 per watt of installed capacity depending upon orientation. For further information, please see the <a href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_PV_Rebate.pdf\">Terms and Conditions within the PV Incentive Program Application</a> and <a href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/DG_Installation_Requirements.pdf\">Distributed General Installation Requirements</a>.</p><p>HLPD purchases excess generation from customers with Distributed Generation (DG), such as solar, wind turbines, etc., at a tariff based upon the monthly <a href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/Rates.pdf\">Power Adjustment Charge</a>.  </p><p>COMMERCIAL AND INDUSTRIAL ENERGY EFFICIENCY REBATES</p><p>HLPD offers business and municipal customers financial incentives to replace inefficient lighting and to update across-the-line starters with variable-frequency drives on existing motors. For further information, please see the <a href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD%20Commercial%20Energy%20Efficiency%20Rebate%20Program.pdf\">Commercial &amp; Industrial Energy Efficiency Rebate Application</a>.</p><p>COMMERCIAL AND INDUSTRIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENTS</p><p>Business and municipal customers interested in improving their energy efficiency can contact Energy New England (ENE) at 888-772-4242 to schedule an <a href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_Commercial_Energy_Audit.pdf\">Energy or Lighting Assessment</a>. The assessment will be partially subsidized by HLPD.</p>\n												COMMERCIAL LIGHTING RETROFIT REBATES					\n					<p>HMLP offers a Commercial Lighting Retrofit Rebate Program to its commercial, industrial, and municipal customers that retrofit inefficient interior lighting systems, or convert outdoor lighting to Light Emitting Diode (LED). The lighting rebate applies to the retrofitting of existing: </p><ul><li>T12 fluorescent lamps with magnetic ballast to T5 or T8 lamps with electronic ballasts</li><li>T12 high output or high intensity discharge (HID) fixtures to T5 or T8 high output with electronic ballasts</li><li>Compact fluorescent lamp (CFL) exit signs with new Light Emitting Diode (LED), Electroluminescent, or Photo luminescent exit signs</li><li>High pressure sodium, mercury vapor, or incandescent outdoor lighting to LED</li><li>The installation of occupancy sensors &#8211; passive infrared and/or ultrasonic detectors only with no manual ON or override switches </li></ul><p>HMLP caps the rebate amount at 50% of the project with a maximum of $4,000 per account. The rebate amount is credited to the customer account</p>\n												HVAC SYSTEM REBATES					\n					<p>Industry studies indicate that facility HVAC equipment represents approximately 31% of potential electric savings and 33% (over 2,000 kW) of potential Peak kW Demand reduction. An HVAC program has been developed by a Consortium for Energy Efficiency. HMLP’s HVAC program will be geared toward commercial/industrial customers who utilize roof top units (RTUs). The program will encourage customers to purchase high efficiency units for new applications or when replacing failed units. Rebates will be developed based on the tonnage of the unit as well as the efficiency. HMLP intends to develop a program similar to the Consortium’s “Cool Choice” program (details to be provided). Due to the technical nature of motors and HVAC systems, HMLP envisions creating the specifics of this program with the ENE specialists.</p><p><i>The HMLP reserves the right to change any portion of this program or end the program at any time without notice.</i></p>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Hudson Light & Power Department (HLPD)','','inherit','closed','closed','','1382-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 02:12:40','2018-06-27 02:12:40','',1382,'http://ee.ene.org/1382-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1741,2,'2018-06-27 02:14:50','2018-06-27 02:14:50','<h2>Hudson Light & Power Department</h2>		\n			<h5>SERVING THE TOWN OF HUDSON, STOW, BERLIN, BOLTON, AND MARLBOROUGH</h5>		\n		<p>Hudson Light and Power Department (HLPD) is a not-for-profit municipal electric utility serving Hudson, Stow, and parts of surrounding communities. HLPD is proud of its reputation for providing high quality service at the most economical price possible. HLPD’s motto - \"We\'re here to serve you!\" - describes how it conducts business every day.</p>		\n			<a href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/\" role=\"button\">\n						VISIT HLPD\'S WEBSITE\n					</a>\n										<img width=\"200\" height=\"200\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/hudson2.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/hudson2.png 200w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/hudson2-150x150.png 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 200px) 100vw, 200px\" />											\n			<h3>Rebates</h3>		\n		<table width=\"630\"><tbody><tr><td width=\"219\"><b>INCENTIVE OFFERINGS</b></td><td width=\"189\"><b>RESIDENTIAL</b></td><td width=\"222\"><b>COMMERCIAL</b></td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Home Energy Assessment</td><td width=\"189\">Free</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Air Purifier*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Room Air Conditioner*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric Clothes Dryer*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Clothes Washer*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Dehumidifier*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Dishwasher*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Freezer*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Refrigerator*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Residential Online Lighting Store</td><td width=\"189\">✓</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Central A/C</td><td width=\"189\">50% up to $500 ($500 max per year)</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Ductless Electric Heat Pumps</td><td width=\"189\">$500 max</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric/Air Source/Geo-Thermal Pumps</td><td width=\"189\">$500 max</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric Car Battery Charger Rebate*</td><td width=\"189\">50% up to $250</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Solar - Range 1 Panel Orientation</td><td width=\"189\">$1.00/W - $5,000 max</td><td width=\"222\">$1.00/W - $5,000 max</td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Solar - Range 2 Panel Orientation</td><td width=\"189\">$1.25/W - $6,000 max</td><td width=\"222\">$1.25/W - $6,000 max</td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric Heat Pump Water Heater**</td><td width=\"189\">50% up to $750</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Commercial Energy Assessment</td><td width=\"189\"> </td><td width=\"222\">50%</td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Energy Efficiency Rebate</td><td width=\"189\"> </td><td width=\"222\">50% of total improvement cost, max varies by customer grouping</td></tr></tbody></table><p>*<i>$250 max per customer per calendar year</i><br /><i>**$750 max per customer per calendar year</i></p>		\n			<h4>Energy Saving Rebates and Programs</h4>		\n												ENERGY STAR® APPLIANCE REBATES					\n					<p>Residents who purchase an ENERGY STAR clothes washer, electric clothes dryer, dish washer, refrigerator, freezer, dehumidifier, room air conditioner, or air purifier may apply for the <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_Residential_Appliance_Rebate%20Program.pdf\"><u>ENERGY STAR Appliance Rebate</u>.</a></p>\n												HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Energy New England (ENE) provides conservation services for the residential customers of its partnering utilities. ENE’s highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">Home Energy Assessment</u></a> or <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/danvers-electric-division-ded/?elementor-preview=1305&amp;ver=1529971295#\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">SIGNUP</u></a> today.<br />For more information on how ENE can help you, please call 508-698-1208 or email <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">solutions@ene.org</u></a>.</p>\n												ONLINE LIGHTING STORE					\n					<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">HLPD has partnered with the Energy Federation to bring residential customers discounted CFL and LED bulbs. Visit HLPD’s <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.energyfederation.org/hudson/\"><u>Online Store</u></a> for further information.</p>\n												HEAT PUMP WATER HEATER REBATE					\n					<p>Residents who purchase and install a qualified ENERGY STAR electric fuel source heat pump water heater may apply for a <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_Residential_Heat_Pump_Water_%20Heater_Rebate.pdf\">Rebate Credit</a> of up to $750.  </p><p>For further information on ENERGY STAR certified electric fuel source heat pump water heaters visit <a href=\"https://www.energystar.gov/productfinder/product/certified-water-heaters\">ENERGY STAR</a>.</p><p>Filter for the following:</p><p>&#8220;Fuel Source&#8221; = Electric       &#8220;Type&#8221; = Heat Pump</p><p>Look for pumps with a Uniformed Energy Factor of 2.3 or greater.</p>\n												ELECTRIC CAR BATTERY CHARGER REBATE					\n					<p>Residents who purchase an ENERGY STAR qualified electric car battery charger may apply for a <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_Residential_Electric_Car_Charger_Rebate_Program.pdf\"><u>Rebate Credit</u></a> of up to $250.</p>\n												PHOTOVOLTAIC (PV) INCENTIVE PROGRAM					\n					<p>For photovoltaic (PV) installations, HLPD offers a rebate of $1 or $1.25 per watt of installed capacity depending upon orientation. For further information, please see the <a href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_PV_Rebate.pdf\">Terms and Conditions within the PV Incentive Program Application</a> and <a href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/DG_Installation_Requirements.pdf\">Distributed General Installation Requirements</a>.</p><p>HLPD purchases excess generation from customers with Distributed Generation (DG), such as solar, wind turbines, etc., at a tariff based upon the monthly <a href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/Rates.pdf\">Power Adjustment Charge</a>.  </p>\n												COMMERCIAL AND INDUSTRIAL ENERGY EFFICIENCY REBATES					\n					<p>HLPD offers business and municipal customers financial incentives to replace inefficient lighting and to update across-the-line starters with variable-frequency drives on existing motors. For further information, please see the <a href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD%20Commercial%20Energy%20Efficiency%20Rebate%20Program.pdf\"><u>Commercial &amp; Industrial Energy Efficiency Rebate Application</u></a>.</p>\n												COMMERCIAL AND INDUSTRIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENTS					\n					<p>Business and municipal customers interested in improving their energy efficiency can contact Energy New England (ENE) at <b>888-772-4242</b> to schedule an <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_Commercial_Energy_Audit.pdf\"><u>Energy or Lighting Assessment</u></a>. The assessment will be partially subsidized by HLPD.</p>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Hudson Light & Power Department (HLPD)','','inherit','closed','closed','','1382-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 02:14:50','2018-06-27 02:14:50','',1382,'http://ee.ene.org/1382-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1742,2,'2018-06-27 02:16:19','2018-06-27 02:16:19','<h2>Hudson Light & Power Department</h2>		\n			<h5>SERVING THE TOWN OF HUDSON, STOW, BERLIN, BOLTON, AND MARLBOROUGH</h5>		\n		<p>Hudson Light and Power Department (HLPD) is a not-for-profit municipal electric utility serving Hudson, Stow, and parts of surrounding communities. HLPD is proud of its reputation for providing high quality service at the most economical price possible. HLPD’s motto - \"We\'re here to serve you!\" - describes how it conducts business every day.</p>		\n			<a href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/\" role=\"button\">\n						VISIT HLPD\'S WEBSITE\n					</a>\n										<img width=\"200\" height=\"200\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/hudson2.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/hudson2.png 200w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/hudson2-150x150.png 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 200px) 100vw, 200px\" />											\n			<h3>Rebates</h3>		\n		<table width=\"630\"><tbody><tr><td width=\"219\"><b>INCENTIVE OFFERINGS</b></td><td width=\"189\"><b>RESIDENTIAL</b></td><td width=\"222\"><b>COMMERCIAL</b></td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Home Energy Assessment</td><td width=\"189\">Free</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Air Purifier*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Room Air Conditioner*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric Clothes Dryer*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Clothes Washer*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Dehumidifier*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Dishwasher*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Freezer*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Refrigerator*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Residential Online Lighting Store</td><td width=\"189\">✓</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Central A/C</td><td width=\"189\">50% up to $500 ($500 max per year)</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Ductless Electric Heat Pumps</td><td width=\"189\">$500 max</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric/Air Source/Geo-Thermal Pumps</td><td width=\"189\">$500 max</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric Car Battery Charger Rebate*</td><td width=\"189\">50% up to $250</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Solar - Range 1 Panel Orientation</td><td width=\"189\">$1.00/W - $5,000 max</td><td width=\"222\">$1.00/W - $5,000 max</td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Solar - Range 2 Panel Orientation</td><td width=\"189\">$1.25/W - $6,000 max</td><td width=\"222\">$1.25/W - $6,000 max</td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric Heat Pump Water Heater**</td><td width=\"189\">50% up to $750</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Commercial Energy Assessment</td><td width=\"189\"> </td><td width=\"222\">50%</td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Energy Efficiency Rebate</td><td width=\"189\"> </td><td width=\"222\">50% of total improvement cost, max varies by customer grouping</td></tr></tbody></table><p>*<i>$250 max per customer per calendar year</i><br /><i>**$750 max per customer per calendar year</i></p>		\n			<h4>Energy Saving Rebates and Programs</h4>		\n												ENERGY STAR® APPLIANCE REBATES					\n					<p>Residents who purchase an ENERGY STAR clothes washer, electric clothes dryer, dish washer, refrigerator, freezer, dehumidifier, room air conditioner, or air purifier may apply for the <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_Residential_Appliance_Rebate%20Program.pdf\"><u>ENERGY STAR Appliance Rebate</u>.</a></p>\n												HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Energy New England (ENE) provides conservation services for the residential customers of its partnering utilities. ENE’s highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">Home Energy Assessment</u></a> or <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/danvers-electric-division-ded/?elementor-preview=1305&amp;ver=1529971295#\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">SIGNUP</u></a> today.<br />For more information on how ENE can help you, please call 508-698-1208 or email <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">solutions@ene.org</u></a>.</p>\n												ONLINE LIGHTING STORE					\n					<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">HLPD has partnered with the Energy Federation to bring residential customers discounted CFL and LED bulbs. Visit HLPD’s <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.energyfederation.org/hudson/\"><u>Online Store</u></a> for further information.</p>\n												HEAT PUMP WATER HEATER REBATE					\n					<p>Residents who purchase and install a qualified ENERGY STAR electric fuel source heat pump water heater may apply for a <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_Residential_Heat_Pump_Water_%20Heater_Rebate.pdf\"><u>Rebate Credit</u></a> of up to $750.  </p><p>For further information on ENERGY STAR certified electric fuel source heat pump water heaters visit <a href=\"https://www.energystar.gov/productfinder/product/certified-water-heaters\"><u>ENERGY STAR</u></a>.</p><p>Filter for the following:</p><p>&#8220;Fuel Source&#8221; = Electric       &#8220;Type&#8221; = Heat Pump</p><p>Look for pumps with a Uniformed Energy Factor of 2.3 or greater.</p>\n												ELECTRIC CAR BATTERY CHARGER REBATE					\n					<p>Residents who purchase an ENERGY STAR qualified electric car battery charger may apply for a <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_Residential_Electric_Car_Charger_Rebate_Program.pdf\"><u>Rebate Credit</u></a> of up to $250.</p>\n												PHOTOVOLTAIC (PV) INCENTIVE PROGRAM					\n					<p>For photovoltaic (PV) installations, HLPD offers a rebate of $1 or $1.25 per watt of installed capacity depending upon orientation. For further information, please see the <a href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_PV_Rebate.pdf\"><u>Terms and Conditions within the PV Incentive Program Application</u></a> and <a href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/DG_Installation_Requirements.pdf\"><u>Distributed General Installation Requirements</u></a>.</p><p>HLPD purchases excess generation from customers with Distributed Generation (DG), such as solar, wind turbines, etc., at a tariff based upon the monthly <a href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/Rates.pdf\"><u>Power Adjustment Charge</u></a>.  </p>\n												COMMERCIAL AND INDUSTRIAL ENERGY EFFICIENCY REBATES					\n					<p>HLPD offers business and municipal customers financial incentives to replace inefficient lighting and to update across-the-line starters with variable-frequency drives on existing motors. For further information, please see the <a href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD%20Commercial%20Energy%20Efficiency%20Rebate%20Program.pdf\"><u>Commercial &amp; Industrial Energy Efficiency Rebate Application</u></a>.</p>\n												COMMERCIAL AND INDUSTRIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENTS					\n					<p>Business and municipal customers interested in improving their energy efficiency can contact Energy New England (ENE) at <b>888-772-4242</b> to schedule an <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_Commercial_Energy_Audit.pdf\"><u>Energy or Lighting Assessment</u></a>. The assessment will be partially subsidized by HLPD.</p>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Hudson Light & Power Department (HLPD)','','inherit','closed','closed','','1382-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 02:16:19','2018-06-27 02:16:19','',1382,'http://ee.ene.org/1382-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1744,2,'2018-06-27 02:26:12','2018-06-27 02:26:12','<h2>Belmont Municipal Light Department</h2>		\n			<h5>SERVING THE TOWN OF BELMONT</h5>		\n		The mission of Belmont Municipal Light Department (BMLD)​​ is to deliver safe, reliable electric power service to the community of Belmont by embracing new technology and providing superior customer service.		\n			<a href=\"http://www.belmontlight.com/\" role=\"button\">\n						VISIT BMLD\'S WEBSITE\n					</a>\n										<img width=\"200\" height=\"200\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/belmont2.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/belmont2.png 200w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/belmont2-150x150.png 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 200px) 100vw, 200px\" />											\n			<h3>Rebates</h3>		\n		<table style=\"font-size: 16px;\" width=\"693\"><tbody><tr><td width=\"275\"><strong>INCENTIVE OFFERINGS</strong></td><td width=\"232\"><strong>RESIDENTIAL</strong></td><td width=\"187\"><strong>COMMERCIAL</strong></td></tr><tr><td width=\"275\">Home energy assessment</td><td width=\"232\">Free</td><td width=\"187\"><strong> </strong></td></tr><tr><td width=\"275\">Appliance</td><td width=\"232\">$150 max per household per calendar year</td><td width=\"187\"><strong> </strong></td></tr><tr><td width=\"275\">Central AC - SEER  ≥14</td><td width=\"232\">$100</td><td width=\"187\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"275\">Clothes washer</td><td width=\"232\">$50</td><td width=\"187\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"275\">Dehumidifier</td><td width=\"232\">$75</td><td width=\"187\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"275\">Dishwasher</td><td width=\"232\">$50</td><td width=\"187\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"275\">Refrigerator ≥15 cu.ft w/DPU or vendor disposal</td><td width=\"232\">$100</td><td width=\"187\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"275\">Unit AC w/disposal</td><td width=\"232\">$100</td><td width=\"187\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"275\">Unit AC without/disposal</td><td width=\"232\">$25</td><td width=\"187\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"275\">Electric vehicles (EVs)</td><td width=\"232\">$250 and $8 per month for charging smart</td><td width=\"187\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"275\">Heat pump and hybrid heat pump dryers*</td><td width=\"232\">$100</td><td width=\"187\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"275\">Heat pump/cooling systems</td><td width=\"232\">$500-$1500</td><td width=\"187\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"275\">CFL recycling</td><td width=\"232\">✓</td><td width=\"187\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"275\">Solar</td><td width=\"232\">Credit for excess generation</td><td width=\"187\">Credit for excess generation</td></tr><tr><td width=\"275\">Green Choice Program-Renewable Energy Certificates</td><td width=\"232\">$6 per month / block</td><td width=\"187\">$6 per month / block</td></tr></tbody></table><p><em>*Standard dryers, even those with ENERGY STAR labels do not qualify</em></p>		\n			<h4>Energy Saving Rebates and Programs</h4>		\n												ENERGY STAR<sup>®</sup> APPLIANCE REBATE PROGRAM					\n					<p>Purchasing a new appliance this year? Choose an ENERGY STAR qualified appliance and receive a rebate on your electric bill!</p><p><b>2018 APPLIANCE REBATE PROGRAM</b></p><p>The 2018 ENERGY STAR Appliance Rebate Program features rebates for ENERGY STAR qualified dehumidifiers and room air conditioner replacements. BMLD offers rebates for the addition of central air conditioners, refrigerators, and room air conditioner as well. The 2018 Appliance Rebate Program is designed to help you save even more energy and money in 2018 and beyond. Download the <strong><u><a href=\"http://www.belmontlight.com/tinymce/js/tinymce/plugins/moxiemanager/data/files/2018_Appliance%20Rebate%20Brochure.pdf\">2018 Appliance Rebate Application and Brochure</a></u></strong><strong> </strong>and return it with your sales receipt, proof of the ENERGY STAR qualification, and proof of removal* to the address below. </p><p><b>Energy New England</b><br />Belmont Light Appliance Rebate Program<br />100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110<br />Foxborough, MA 02035</p><p><strong>Please do not include your applications with your electric bill payments.</strong></p><p>*Please note that proof of proper removal of your old appliance is required for all refrigerator and full-room air conditioner rebates. Rebates are limited to $200 per household per calendar year. See the ENERGY STAR Appliance Rebate Application and Brochure for more information or call <strong>1-888-772-4242</strong>. For information on ENERGY STAR qualified products, vendors, and potential savings visit <u><a href=\"http://www.energystar.gov/\">ENERGY STAR</a></u>.</p><p><u><a href=\"http://www.belmontlight.com/tinymce/js/tinymce/plugins/moxiemanager/data/files/2018_Appliance%20Rebate%20Brochure.pdf\">2018 Appliance Rebate Application and Brochure</a></u></p>\n												ELECTRIC VEHICLE REBATES & PROGRAMS					\n					<p><b>$250 CHARGING EQUIPMENT REBATE</b></p><p><strong>Through June 30, 2018</strong>, Belmont Light is offering a $250 rebate for wifi-enabled level 2 charging equipment. The following model is currently eligible:</p><ul><li><a href=\"https://emotorwerks.com/store-juicebox-ev-charging-stations/202-juicebox-pro-40-smart-40-amp-evse-with-24-foot-cable/category_pathway-23%22\"><u>eMotorWerks JuiceBox</u> </a></li></ul><p>Please inform us (<a href=\"mailto:EV@Sagewell.com\"><u>EV@Sagewell.com</u></a>) of your plan to acquire an EV or charger before June 30th in order to reserve your rebate.</p><p><b>BRING YOUR OWN CHARGER PROGRAM</b></p><p>Belmont residents with a Level 2 electric vehicle charger (240V) may enroll in the Bring Your Own Charger Program and earn $8/month when they “charge smart.” To enroll:</p><ul><li>After you install your charger, send an email to <a href=\"mailto:EV@Sagewell.com\"><u>EV@Sagewell.com</u></a> to request an enrollment form.</li><li>When you return the signed form, include a screenshot of your car set to charge between the hours of 10 P.M. and 1 P.M. during weekdays, and anytime during the weekend (10 P.M. Friday to 1 P.M. Monday).</li><li>You are able to charge during the daytime (weekdays, 1 P.M. to 10 P.M.) up to 3 times each month, in case of emergency.</li><li><strong>Participants earn $8/month &#8211; That’s the equivalent of about 1,600 FREE miles per year.</strong></li></ul><p><strong>Note: In February 2018, </strong>Belmont Light updated its Load-Controlled Smart Charging Program to replace the 15% rebate with a more predictable $8/month rebate. Participants currently enrolled in the 15% program may elect to remain in this program through 2018. All new participants will be enrolled in the Bring Your Own Charger (BYOC) program.</p><p><b>BELMONT DRIVES ELECTRIC</b></p><p>Belmont Light is partnering with Belmont Drives Electric (BDE) to promote the use of smart chargers for electric vehicles.  Find out more information about the <a href=\"http://www.belmontdriveselectric.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Belmont Drives Electric</u></a>.</p><p>BDE will help you find a certified electrician to connect the charger to your electrical panel and complete the installation. Email them at <a href=\"mailto:BelmontDrivesElectric@gmail.com\"><u>BelmontDrivesElectric@gmail.com</u></a> or <a href=\"mailto:EV@Sagewell.com\"><u>EV@Sagewell.com</u></a> if you have any questions about this process.</p><p>Make sure to drop by an upcoming BDE event to drive an electric car, talk with Belmont residents who own electric vehicles, and learn about our Smart Charger Program.</p>\n												HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>BMLD offers no-cost, comprehensive energy assessments to all of its residential customers. As part of the assessment a professional energy advisor will conduct a thorough analysis of your home&#8217;s energy use, offer tips on appliance usage, and provide a report detailing recommendations and payback times for any suggested improvements. Participants are under no obligation to proceed with project work suggested during assessments. The advisor will also install up to $30 of energy savings materials during the assessment. If requested, the 2018 energy assessment program includes a free thermal imaging scan and blower door test.</p><p>To schedule your assessment or receive advice about saving energy in general, call BMLD’s Energy Hotline hosted by Energy New England at <strong>1-888-772-4242</strong>.</p><p><b>BELMONT LIGHT ENERGY HOTLINE</b><strong><br /></strong>Energy New England<br /><b>1-888-772-4242</b></p><p>Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your <a style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">Home Energy Assessment</u></a> or <a style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/danvers-electric-division-ded/?elementor-preview=1305&amp;ver=1529971295#\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">SIGNUP</u></a> today.<br style=\"color: #54595f;\" />For more information on how ENE can help you, please call 508-698-1208 or email <a style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">solutions@ene.org</u></a>.<b><br /></b></p>\n												DISCOUNTS ON HIGH EFFICIENCY HEATING/COOLING SYSTEMS					\n					<p>Highly efficient electric heat pump systems can help residents reduce energy bills and carbon footprints by up to 50%. For this reason, BMLD set a goal of reaching 50 residential heat pumps in town through its Energy Grant Program.</p><p>BMLD offers discounts between $500 and $1,500 for heat pumps depending on the size of the system. These discounts are available to homes currently heated with any fuel type. To learn more, please visit <a href=\"http://www.belmontlightenergygrant.com/\"><u>Belmont Light’s Heat Pump Grant</u></a>. </p>\n												CFL RECYCLING					\n					<p>It is important to BMLD that all CFLs are safely recycled. Spent CFLs can be dropped off at BMLD’s 40 Prince Street office during normal business hours (M-F 8 AM to 4 PM), or at other recycling centers in and around Belmont, including:</p><ul><li>Belmont Department of Public Works (DPW) Main Office, Homer Building, 19 Moore St. (M-F 8 AM to 4 PM)</li><li>Hillside Gardens, 280 Blanchard Rd. (M-Sat. 8 AM to 6 PM)</li><li>Home Depot, 615 Arsenal St., Watertown, MA 02472</li></ul><p>For more information on CFLs, LEDs, or efficient light fixtures please visit <u><a href=\"http://www.energystar.gov/\">ENERGY STAR</a></u>. For information on CFL mercury content, proper usage, recycling, and clean up please visit the <a style=\"text-decoration-line: underline;\" href=\"http://www.epa.gov/cfl/\">Environmental Protection Agency</a>.</p>\n												GREEN CHOICE PROGRAM					\n					<p>BMLD is committed to supporting clean and renewable energy resources. Every BMLD customer has the option of further supporting renewable energy resources through BMLD’s voluntary Green Choice Program. By electing to participate in Green Choice, you can help sustain and support renewable energy resources for as little as $6 per month added to your electric bill.</p><p>Each $6 “block” represents the production of 100 kilowatt-hours of electricity from renewable resources. Customers may elect to purchase as many 100 kilowatt-hour blocks per month as they wish, and may cancel their participation at any time with a 30 day notice.</p><p>To participate in the Green Choice Program, download the <a href=\"http://www.belmontlight.com/energy-solutions/pdf/Green%20Choice%20Program.pdf\"><u>Green Choice Program Application</u></a> and return it to BMLD’s office at:</p><p><b>Belmont Light Green Choice Program</b><br />40 Prince Street<br />Belmont, MA 02478</p><p>Funds from the Green Choice Program will be used to purchase Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs) from Class I qualified renewable energy resources. For each megawatt-hour of electricity produced by a qualified renewable resource, 1 REC is created on the New England Power Pool Generation Information System (NEPOOL GIS). Since it is physically impossible to determine where a unit of electricity comes from or flows to on the grid, the RECs market helps ensure that renewable resources remain competitive in New England by capturing its environmental value or “attributes” as a second product. As a Green Choice participant, you choose to contribute to a more sustainable power supply for New England.</p>\n												LOW INCOME HOME ENERGY ASSISTANCE PROGRAM (LIHEAP)					\n					<p>Heating assistance is available for low income Belmont residents. Please visit <a href=\"http://www.belmontlight.com/energy-solutions/financial-assistance.php?id=24\"><u>BMLD</u></a> for more information on the Low Income Home Energy Assistance Program (LIHEAP).</p>\n												GOOD NEIGHBOR ENERGY FUND					\n					<p>To learn more about the Good Neighbor Energy Fund please visit <a href=\"http://www.belmontlight.com/energy-solutions/financial-assistance.php?id=24\">BMLD</a>.</p>\n												HEATING EMERGENCY ASSISTANCE RETROFIT TASK WEATHERIZATION ASSISTANCE PROGRAM (HEARTWAP)					\n					<p>Belmont residents who are eligible for the LIHEAP fuel assistance and own their own home can get help with heating system repairs or replacement through the Heating Energy Assistance Retrofit Task Weatherization Assistance Program (HEARTWAP).</p><p>During the heating season, eligible homeowners whose heating systems are not working can get free emergency repairs. In some cases, homeowners can have their heating systems replaced. Priority for HEARTWAP services is given to those clients in an emergency no-heat or unsafe heating situation.</p><p>For more information on HEARTWAP please visit <a href=\"http://www.belmontlight.com/energy-solutions/financial-assistance.php?id=24\">BMLD</a>.</p>\n												EMISSION-FREE RENEWABLE DISTRIBUTED GENERATION					\n					<p>BMLD shares its customers’ commitment to emission-free renewable energy. If you are considering installing solar panels or a wind turbine to supply energy to your home or business, please review BMLD’s <a href=\"http://www.belmontlight.com/tinymce/js/tinymce/plugins/moxiemanager/data/files/pdf%20-%20Energy%20Solutions/EFR_Policy_Effective_12.01.15%20FINAL.pdf\"><u>Policy on Emission Free Renewable Generation Facilities</u></a> effective December 1, 2015.</p><p>Before beginning installation, distributed generation host customers planning to install installations sized 20kW or smaller are required to submit an <a href=\"http://www.belmontlight.com/tinymce/js/tinymce/plugins/moxiemanager/data/files/pdf%20-%20Energy%20Solutions/2015_Belmont_Light_Interconnection_Application.pdf\"><u>Interconnection and Service Agreement Application</u></a> together with the application processing fee and a copy of the signed electrical permit. To apply for interconnection for a system larger than 20kW, please contact BMLD’s Engineering Department at <a href=\"mailto:interconnections@belmontlight.com\"><u>interconnections@belmontlight.com</u></a> or 617-993-2800. </p><p>BMLD recognizes that the decision to host an emission-free renewable distributed generation facility requires careful consideration of many economic and physical factors. BMLD’s distributed generation policy is designed to provide customers with flexibility of contract and fuel options while maintaining low rates for all customers and the reliability and safety of its system. If you have questions regarding the <a href=\"http://www.belmontlight.com/tinymce/js/tinymce/plugins/moxiemanager/data/files/pdf%20-%20Energy%20Solutions/EFR_Policy_Effective_12.01.15%20FINAL.pdf\"><u>policy</u></a>, <a href=\"http://www.belmontlight.com/tinymce/js/tinymce/plugins/moxiemanager/data/files/pdf%20-%20Energy%20Solutions/Rate_EFR_Tariff_Effective%2012.01.15.pdf\"><u>rate</u></a>, or interconnection process for solar PV, please do not hesitate to <a href=\"http://www.belmontlight.com/customer-service/contact-info.php?id=8\"><u>contact BMLD</u></a>.</p><p><a href=\"http://www.belmontlight.com/tinymce/js/tinymce/plugins/moxiemanager/data/files/pdf%20-%20Energy%20Solutions/2015_Belmont_Light_Interconnection_Application.pdf\"><u>Interconnection and Service Agreement Application</u></a></p><p><a href=\"http://www.belmontlight.com/tinymce/js/tinymce/plugins/moxiemanager/data/files/pdf%20-%20Energy%20Solutions/EFR_Policy_Effective_12.01.15%20FINAL.pdf\">2015 Policy on Emission Free Renewable Energy Facilities</a></p><p><a href=\"http://www.belmontlight.com/tinymce/js/tinymce/plugins/moxiemanager/data/files/pdf%20-%20Energy%20Solutions/Rate_EFR_Tariff_Effective%2012.01.15.pdf\">Rate EFR for solar and wind customers</a></p>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Belmont Municipal Light Department (BMLD)','','inherit','closed','closed','','40-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 02:26:12','2018-06-27 02:26:12','',40,'http://ee.ene.org/40-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1745,2,'2018-06-27 02:27:53','2018-06-27 02:27:53','<a href=\"#\" role=\"button\">\n						HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT\n					</a>','BTN - HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT','','inherit','closed','closed','','1613-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 02:27:53','2018-06-27 02:27:53','',1613,'http://ee.ene.org/1613-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1746,2,'2018-06-27 02:27:54','2018-06-27 02:27:54','<h2>Chester Municipal Electric Light Department</h2>		\n			<h5>SERVING THE TOWN OF CHESTER</h5>		\n		<p>Chester is a town in Hampden County, Massachusetts situated in the western part of the state. It is part of the Springfield, Massachusetts metropolitan statistical area. The town includes the Chester Factory Village Historic District. The total population was 1,337 in the 2010 census.</p>		\n			<a href=\"http://townofchester.net/municipal-electric-light/\" role=\"button\">\n						VISIT CMELD\'S WEBSITE\n					</a>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/chester-1-nr9bl885qnws8383mgv2p8y78r8es89s6k00ktccik.png\" title=\"chester\" alt=\"chester\" />											\n			<h3>Rebates</h3>		\n		<table width=\"600\"><tbody><tr><td width=\"192\"><p><strong>INCENTIVE OFFERINGS</strong></p></td><td width=\"180\"><p><strong>RESIDENTIAL</strong></p></td><td width=\"228\"><p><strong>COMMERCIAL</strong></p></td></tr><tr><td width=\"192\"><p>Home Energy Assessment</p></td><td width=\"180\"><p>Free</p></td><td width=\"228\"> </td></tr></tbody></table>		\n			<h3>Energy Savings Rebates and Programs</h3>		\n		HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT<p>Energy New England (ENE) provides conservation services for the residential customers of its partnering utilities. ENE’s highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.</p><p>Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your <a style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">Home Energy Assessment</u></a> or <a style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/danvers-electric-division-ded/?elementor-preview=1305&amp;ver=1529971295#\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">SIGNUP</u></a> today.<br style=\"color: #54595f;\" />For more information on how ENE can help you, please call 508-698-1208 or email <a style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">solutions@ene.org</u></a>.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Chester Municipal Electric Department (CMELD)','','inherit','closed','closed','','324-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 02:27:54','2018-06-27 02:27:54','',324,'http://ee.ene.org/324-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1747,2,'2018-06-27 02:30:39','2018-06-27 02:30:39','<h2>Georgetown Municipal Light Department</h2>		\n			<h5>SERVING THE TOWN OF GEORGETOWN</h5>		\n		<p>Georgetown Municipal Light Department (GMLD) is a municipal electric utility that has been serving the ratepayers of the Town of Georgetown since December of 1912. Customers can come into the office during working hours to sign on for service, pay bills, or conduct general Light Plant business.</p>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.georgetownma.gov/georgetown-municipal-light-department \" role=\"button\">\n						VISIT GMLD\'S WEBSITE\n					</a>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/georgetown-nr8pgy8647v6w5v2brtrxopqwtzh2y3r1ch3t7zplo.png\" title=\"georgetown\" alt=\"georgetown\" />											\n			<h3>Rebates</h3>		\n		<table width=\"547\">\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"199\"><strong>INCENTIVE OFFERINGS</strong></td>\n<td width=\"161\"><strong>RESIDENTIAL</strong></td>\n<td width=\"187\"><strong>COMMERCIAL</strong></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"199\">Home Energy Assessment</td>\n<td width=\"161\">Free</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"199\">Clothes Washer*</td>\n<td width=\"161\">$50</td>\n<td width=\"187\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"199\">Dishwasher*</td>\n<td width=\"161\">$50</td>\n<td width=\"187\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"199\">Programmable Thermostat*</td>\n<td width=\"161\">$25</td>\n<td width=\"187\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"199\">Refrigerator*</td>\n<td width=\"161\">$50</td>\n<td width=\"187\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"199\">Window A/C With EER &gt; 10*</td>\n<td width=\"161\">$25</td>\n<td width=\"187\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"199\">Solar Interconnect</td>\n<td width=\"161\">✓</td>\n<td width=\"187\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"199\">Commercial Energy Assessment</td>\n<td width=\"161\"></td>\n<td width=\"187\">100%</td>\n</tr>\n</tbody>\n</table><p>*<i>One rebate allowed in each category per year.</i></p>		\n			<h4>Energy Saving Rebates and Programs</h4>		\n												ENERGY STAR® APPLIANCE REBATES					\n					<p><b>Requirements:</b></p><ul><li>Select Energy Star* appliance(s) must have been purchased within the last 90 days</li><li>Customer must reside and own the address for which they have had an active residential account with GMLD for a period of 6 months or greater</li><li>Proof of purchase in the form of a legible copy of sales receipt dated within 90 days of the submission of application and sold to the account of the applicant</li><li>Eligible appliance(s) must be a replacement for the Non-Energy Star* item in which it’s replacing</li><li>Appliances already included in the purchase of a residence are not eligible</li></ul><p>This offer is brought to you by the Georgetown Municipal Light Department. GMLD reserves the right to change any portion of this program or end the program at any time without notice.</p><p><a href=\"https://www.georgetownma.gov/sites/georgetownma/files/uploads/appliance_rebate_2017.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>APPLIANCE REBATE PROGRAM &amp; APPLICATION</u></a></p>\n												HOME & COMMERCIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENTS					\n					<p>Energy New England (ENE) provides conservation services for the customers of its partnering utilities. ENE’s highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.</p><p>Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">Home Energy Assessment</u></a> or <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/danvers-electric-division-ded/?elementor-preview=1305&amp;ver=1529971295#\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">SIGNUP</u></a> today.<br />For more information on how ENE can help you, please call 508-698-1208 or email <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">solutions@ene.org</u></a>.</p>\n												SOLAR INTERCONNECT					\n					<p>To learn more about solar interconnection visit GMLD’s <a href=\"https://www.georgetownma.gov/sites/georgetownma/files/uploads/solar_interconnect.pdf\"><u>Standards for Interconnecting Distributed Generation</u></a>.</p>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Georgetown Municipal Light Department (GMLD)','','inherit','closed','closed','','1366-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 02:30:39','2018-06-27 02:30:39','',1366,'http://ee.ene.org/1366-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1749,2,'2018-06-27 18:54:48','2018-06-27 18:54:48','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/build-like-a-pro-insulate-and-weatherize-bruce-harley-070649.html#collateral-tabs\" role=\"button\">\n						Buy on amazon\n					</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<p>Paperback – October 18, 2012\nby Bruce Harley  (Author)</p>		\n		The appliances we use…the lights we turn on…these two items alone in our homes can account for upward of 40% of total energy dollars spent. For those who want to save money (and who doesn’t?) by becoming more energy efficient―and for those who want to go a step further and embrace the latest strategies in renewable and alternative energy systems―Insulate and Weatherize is about to lead the way.<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is an engineer who has been involved in energy efficiency for the 28 years. His field experience includes testing, diagnosis, and remediation of air leakage, duct leakage, airflow, combustion safety, and indoor air quality in residential buildings, as well as efficiency testing and troubleshooting of geothermal heat pumps. He has conducted training in energy-efficient residential construction, building science, mechanical systems, diagnostic techniques, and energy codes for designers, builders, building officials, and tradespeople. He currently lives in Stamford, Vermont, in an energy-efficient solar/electric house, which he designed and built.</p><p> </p><p style=\"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; caret-color: #000000; color: #000000; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal; text-size-adjust: auto;\"><a style=\"color: #954f72; text-decoration-line: underline;\" href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/cut-your-energy-bills-bruce-harley-071230.html\">https://www.tauntonstore.com/cut-your-energy-bills-bruce-harley-071230.html</a></p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RECOMMENDATIONS','','inherit','closed','closed','','16-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 18:54:48','2018-06-27 18:54:48','',16,'http://ee.ene.org/16-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1750,2,'2018-06-27 18:55:54','2018-06-27 18:55:54','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/cut-your-energy-bills-bruce-harley-071230.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/build-like-a-pro-insulate-and-weatherize-bruce-harley-070649.html#collateral-tabs\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<p>Paperback – October 18, 2012\nby Bruce Harley  (Author)</p>		\n		The appliances we use…the lights we turn on…these two items alone in our homes can account for upward of 40% of total energy dollars spent. For those who want to save money (and who doesn’t?) by becoming more energy efficient―and for those who want to go a step further and embrace the latest strategies in renewable and alternative energy systems―Insulate and Weatherize is about to lead the way.<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is an engineer who has been involved in energy efficiency for the 28 years. His field experience includes testing, diagnosis, and remediation of air leakage, duct leakage, airflow, combustion safety, and indoor air quality in residential buildings, as well as efficiency testing and troubleshooting of geothermal heat pumps. He has conducted training in energy-efficient residential construction, building science, mechanical systems, diagnostic techniques, and energy codes for designers, builders, building officials, and tradespeople. He currently lives in Stamford, Vermont, in an energy-efficient solar/electric house, which he designed and built.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RECOMMENDATIONS','','inherit','closed','closed','','16-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 18:55:54','2018-06-27 18:55:54','',16,'http://ee.ene.org/16-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1752,2,'2018-06-27 19:03:11','2018-06-27 19:03:11','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n		<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is an engineer who has been involved in energy efficiency for the 28 years. His field experience includes testing, diagnosis, and remediation of air leakage, duct leakage, airflow, combustion safety, and indoor air quality in residential buildings, as well as efficiency testing and troubleshooting of geothermal heat pumps. He has conducted training in energy-efficient residential construction, building science, mechanical systems, diagnostic techniques, and energy codes for designers, builders, building officials, and tradespeople. He currently lives in Stamford, Vermont, in an energy-efficient solar/electric house, which he designed and built.</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Cut Your Energy Bills</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/cut-your-energy-bills-bruce-harley-071230.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/build-like-a-pro-insulate-and-weatherize-bruce-harley-070649.html#collateral-tabs\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RECOMMENDATIONS','','inherit','closed','closed','','16-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 19:03:11','2018-06-27 19:03:11','',16,'http://ee.ene.org/16-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1755,2,'2018-06-27 19:05:31','2018-06-27 19:05:31','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n		<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is an engineer who has been involved in energy efficiency for the 28 years. His field experience includes testing, diagnosis, and remediation of air leakage, duct leakage, airflow, combustion safety, and indoor air quality in residential buildings, as well as efficiency testing and troubleshooting of geothermal heat pumps. He has conducted training in energy-efficient residential construction, building science, mechanical systems, diagnostic techniques, and energy codes for designers, builders, building officials, and tradespeople. He currently lives in Stamford, Vermont, in an energy-efficient solar/electric house, which he designed and built.</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Cut Your Energy Bills</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/cut-your-energy-bills-bruce-harley-071230.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/build-like-a-pro-insulate-and-weatherize-bruce-harley-070649.html#collateral-tabs\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RECOMMENDATIONS','','inherit','closed','closed','','16-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 19:05:31','2018-06-27 19:05:31','',16,'http://ee.ene.org/16-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1761,2,'2018-06-27 19:15:12','2018-06-27 19:15:12','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n		<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is an engineer who has been involved in energy efficiency for the 28 years. His field experience includes testing, diagnosis, and remediation of air leakage, duct leakage, airflow, combustion safety, and indoor air quality in residential buildings, as well as efficiency testing and troubleshooting of geothermal heat pumps. He has conducted training in energy-efficient residential construction, building science, mechanical systems, diagnostic techniques, and energy codes for designers, builders, building officials, and tradespeople. He currently lives in Stamford, Vermont, in an energy-efficient solar/electric house, which he designed and built.</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"1026\" height=\"1336\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover_Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover_Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​.png 1026w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover_Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​-230x300.png 230w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover_Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​-768x1000.png 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover_Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​-786x1024.png 786w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1026px) 100vw, 1026px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Cut Your Energy Bills</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/cut-your-energy-bills-bruce-harley-071230.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/build-like-a-pro-insulate-and-weatherize-bruce-harley-070649.html#collateral-tabs\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RECOMMENDATIONS','','inherit','closed','closed','','16-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 19:15:12','2018-06-27 19:15:12','',16,'http://ee.ene.org/16-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1765,2,'2018-06-27 19:18:30','2018-06-27 19:18:30','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n		<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is an engineer who has been involved in energy efficiency for the 28 years. His field experience includes testing, diagnosis, and remediation of air leakage, duct leakage, airflow, combustion safety, and indoor air quality in residential buildings, as well as efficiency testing and troubleshooting of geothermal heat pumps. He has conducted training in energy-efficient residential construction, building science, mechanical systems, diagnostic techniques, and energy codes for designers, builders, building officials, and tradespeople. He currently lives in Stamford, Vermont, in an energy-efficient solar/electric house, which he designed and built.</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"1026\" height=\"1336\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover_Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​-1.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover_Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​-1.png 1026w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover_Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​-1-230x300.png 230w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover_Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​-1-768x1000.png 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover_Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​-1-786x1024.png 786w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1026px) 100vw, 1026px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Cut Your Energy Bills</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/cut-your-energy-bills-bruce-harley-071230.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/build-like-a-pro-insulate-and-weatherize-bruce-harley-070649.html#collateral-tabs\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RECOMMENDATIONS','','inherit','closed','closed','','16-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 19:18:30','2018-06-27 19:18:30','',16,'http://ee.ene.org/16-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1766,2,'2018-06-27 19:22:09','2018-06-27 19:22:09','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n		<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is an engineer who has been involved in energy efficiency for the 28 years. His field experience includes testing, diagnosis, and remediation of air leakage, duct leakage, airflow, combustion safety, and indoor air quality in residential buildings, as well as efficiency testing and troubleshooting of geothermal heat pumps. He has conducted training in energy-efficient residential construction, building science, mechanical systems, diagnostic techniques, and energy codes for designers, builders, building officials, and tradespeople. He currently lives in Stamford, Vermont, in an energy-efficient solar/electric house, which he designed and built.</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"1026\" height=\"1336\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover_Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​-1.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover_Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​-1.png 1026w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover_Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​-1-230x300.png 230w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover_Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​-1-768x1000.png 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover_Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​-1-786x1024.png 786w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1026px) 100vw, 1026px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Cut Your Energy Bills</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/cut-your-energy-bills-bruce-harley-071230.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase at amazon\n					</a>\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/build-like-a-pro-insulate-and-weatherize-bruce-harley-070649.html#collateral-tabs\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RECOMMENDATIONS','','inherit','closed','closed','','16-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 19:22:09','2018-06-27 19:22:09','',16,'http://ee.ene.org/16-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1767,2,'2018-06-27 19:36:45','2018-06-27 19:36:45','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n		<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is an engineer who has been involved in energy efficiency for the 28 years. His field experience includes testing, diagnosis, and remediation of air leakage, duct leakage, airflow, combustion safety, and indoor air quality in residential buildings, as well as efficiency testing and troubleshooting of geothermal heat pumps. He has conducted training in energy-efficient residential construction, building science, mechanical systems, diagnostic techniques, and energy codes for designers, builders, building officials, and tradespeople. He currently lives in Stamford, Vermont, in an energy-efficient solar/electric house, which he designed and built.</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"1026\" height=\"1336\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover_Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​-1.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover_Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​-1.png 1026w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover_Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​-1-230x300.png 230w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover_Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​-1-768x1000.png 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover_Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​-1-786x1024.png 786w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1026px) 100vw, 1026px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Cut Your Energy Bills</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/cut-your-energy-bills-bruce-harley-071230.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase at amazon\n					</a>\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/build-like-a-pro-insulate-and-weatherize-bruce-harley-070649.html#collateral-tabs\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RECOMMENDATIONS','','inherit','closed','closed','','16-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 19:36:45','2018-06-27 19:36:45','',16,'http://ee.ene.org/16-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1768,2,'2018-06-27 19:40:31','2018-06-27 19:40:31','<h1>Towns We Serve</h1>		\n		<p>Something about towns served here.</p>		\n			<h2>Interactive Map</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/belmont-municipal-light-department-bmld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Belmont\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/braintree-electric-light-department-beld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Braintree\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/chester-municipal-electric-department-cmeld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Chester\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/concord-municipal-light-plant-cmlp/\" role=\"button\">\n						Concord\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/danvers-electric-division-ded/\" role=\"button\">\n						Danvers\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/chester-municipal-electric-department-cmeld/\" role=\"button\">\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/chester-municipal-electric-department-cmeld/\" role=\"button\">\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/chester-municipal-electric-department-cmeld/\" role=\"button\">\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/chester-municipal-electric-department-cmeld/\" role=\"button\">\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/chester-municipal-electric-department-cmeld/\" role=\"button\">\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/chester-municipal-electric-department-cmeld/\" role=\"button\">\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/chester-municipal-electric-department-cmeld/\" role=\"button\">\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/chester-municipal-electric-department-cmeld/\" role=\"button\">\n					</a>\n		<p>Concord Concord Municipal Light Plant (CMLP) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/concord-municipal-light-plant-cmlp/</p><p>Danvers Danvers Electric Division (DED) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/danvers-electric-division-ded/</p><p>Georgetown Georgetown Municipal Light Department (GMLD) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/georgetown-municipal-light-department-gmld/<br />Groveland Groveland Municipal Electric Department (GMED) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/groveland-municipal-electric-department-gmed/<br />Hingham Hingham Municipal Lighting Plant (HMLP) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/hingham-municipal-lighting-plant-hmlp/<br />Berlin | Bolton | Boxborough Hudson Light &amp; Power Department (HLPD) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/hudson-light-power-department-hlpd/<br />Hudson | Marlborough | Stow Hudson Municipal Light Department (HLPD) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/hudson-municipal-light-department-hlpd/<br />Littleton | Boxborough Littleton Electric Light &amp; Water Department (LELWD) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/littleton-electric-light-and-water-department-lelwd/<br />Mansfield Mansfield Municipal Electric Dept. (MMED) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/mansfield-municipal-electric-deptartment-mmed/<br />Merrimac Merrimac Municipal Light Department (MMLD) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/merrimac-municipal-light-department-mmld/<br />Middleborough | Lakeville Middleborough Gas &amp; Electric Department (MGED) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/middleborough-gas-electric-department-mged/<br />Middleton Middleton Municipal Electric Department (MMED) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/middleton-municipal-electric-department-mmed/<br />North Attleborough North Attleborough Electric Department (NAED) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/north-attleborough-electric-department-naed/<br />Norwood Norwood Municipal Light Department (NMLD) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/norwood-municipal-light-department-nmld/<br />Harrisville | Pascoag Pascoag Utility District (PUD) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/pascoag-utility-district-pud/<br />Reading | Lynnfield | North Reading | Wilmington Reading Municipal Light Department (RMLD) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/reading-municipal-light-department-rmld/<br />Rowley Rowley Municipal Light Plant (RMLP) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/rowley-municipal-light-plant-rmlp/<br />North Dighton | Taunton | Raynham | Berkley Taunton Municipal Lighting Plant (TMLP) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/taunton-municipal-lighting-plant-tmlp/<br />Needham | Wellesley Wellesley Municipal Light Plant (WMLP) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/wellesley-municipal-light-plant-wmlp/ </p><p> </p><p>Belmont Belmont Municipal Light Department (BMLD) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/belmont-municipal-light-department-bmld/</p><p>Braintree Braintree Electric Light Department (BELD) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/braintree-electric-light-department-beld/</p><p>Chester Chester Municipal Electric Department (CMELD) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/chester-municipal-electric-department-cmeld/</p><p>Concord Concord Municipal Light Plant (CMLP) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/concord-municipal-light-plant-cmlp/</p><p>Danvers Danvers Electric Division (DED) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/danvers-electric-division-ded/</p><p>Georgetown Georgetown Municipal Light Department (GMLD) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/georgetown-municipal-light-department-gmld/<br />Groveland Groveland Municipal Electric Department (GMED) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/groveland-municipal-electric-department-gmed/<br />Hingham Hingham Municipal Lighting Plant (HMLP) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/hingham-municipal-lighting-plant-hmlp/<br />Berlin | Bolton | Boxborough Hudson Light &amp; Power Department (HLPD) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/hudson-light-power-department-hlpd/<br />Hudson | Marlborough | Stow Hudson Municipal Light Department (HLPD) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/hudson-municipal-light-department-hlpd/<br />Littleton | Boxborough Littleton Electric Light &amp; Water Department (LELWD) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/littleton-electric-light-and-water-department-lelwd/<br />Mansfield Mansfield Municipal Electric Dept. (MMED) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/mansfield-municipal-electric-deptartment-mmed/<br />Merrimac Merrimac Municipal Light Department (MMLD) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/merrimac-municipal-light-department-mmld/<br />Middleborough | Lakeville Middleborough Gas &amp; Electric Department (MGED) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/middleborough-gas-electric-department-mged/<br />Middleton Middleton Municipal Electric Department (MMED) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/middleton-municipal-electric-department-mmed/<br />North Attleborough North Attleborough Electric Department (NAED) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/north-attleborough-electric-department-naed/<br />Norwood Norwood Municipal Light Department (NMLD) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/norwood-municipal-light-department-nmld/<br />Harrisville | Pascoag Pascoag Utility District (PUD) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/pascoag-utility-district-pud/<br />Reading | Lynnfield | North Reading | Wilmington Reading Municipal Light Department (RMLD) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/reading-municipal-light-department-rmld/<br />Rowley Rowley Municipal Light Plant (RMLP) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/rowley-municipal-light-plant-rmlp/<br />North Dighton | Taunton | Raynham | Berkley Taunton Municipal Lighting Plant (TMLP) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/taunton-municipal-lighting-plant-tmlp/<br />Needham | Wellesley Wellesley Municipal Light Plant (WMLP) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/wellesley-municipal-light-plant-wmlp/ </p><p> </p><p>Belmont Belmont Municipal Light Department (BMLD) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/belmont-municipal-light-department-bmld/<br />Braintree Braintree Electric Light Department (BELD) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/braintree-electric-light-department-beld/<br />Chester Chester Municipal Electric Department (CMELD) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/chester-municipal-electric-department-cmeld/</p><p>Concord Concord Municipal Light Plant (CMLP) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/concord-municipal-light-plant-cmlp/</p><p>Danvers Danvers Electric Division (DED) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/danvers-electric-division-ded/</p><p>Georgetown Georgetown Municipal Light Department (GMLD) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/georgetown-municipal-light-department-gmld/<br />Groveland Groveland Municipal Electric Department (GMED) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/groveland-municipal-electric-department-gmed/<br />Hingham Hingham Municipal Lighting Plant (HMLP) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/hingham-municipal-lighting-plant-hmlp/<br />Berlin | Bolton | Boxborough Hudson Light &amp; Power Department (HLPD) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/hudson-light-power-department-hlpd/<br />Hudson | Marlborough | Stow Hudson Municipal Light Department (HLPD) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/hudson-municipal-light-department-hlpd/<br />Littleton | Boxborough Littleton Electric Light &amp; Water Department (LELWD) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/littleton-electric-light-and-water-department-lelwd/<br />Mansfield Mansfield Municipal Electric Dept. (MMED) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/mansfield-municipal-electric-deptartment-mmed/<br />Merrimac Merrimac Municipal Light Department (MMLD) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/merrimac-municipal-light-department-mmld/<br />Middleborough | Lakeville Middleborough Gas &amp; Electric Department (MGED) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/middleborough-gas-electric-department-mged/<br />Middleton Middleton Municipal Electric Department (MMED) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/middleton-municipal-electric-department-mmed/<br />North Attleborough North Attleborough Electric Department (NAED) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/north-attleborough-electric-department-naed/<br />Norwood Norwood Municipal Light Department (NMLD) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/norwood-municipal-light-department-nmld/<br />Harrisville | Pascoag Pascoag Utility District (PUD) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/pascoag-utility-district-pud/<br />Reading | Lynnfield | North Reading | Wilmington Reading Municipal Light Department (RMLD) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/reading-municipal-light-department-rmld/<br />Rowley Rowley Municipal Light Plant (RMLP) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/rowley-municipal-light-plant-rmlp/<br />North Dighton | Taunton | Raynham | Berkley Taunton Municipal Lighting Plant (TMLP) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/taunton-municipal-lighting-plant-tmlp/<br />Needham | Wellesley Wellesley Municipal Light Plant (WMLP) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/wellesley-municipal-light-plant-wmlp/ </p><p> </p><p>Belmont Belmont Municipal Light Department (BMLD) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/belmont-municipal-light-department-bmld/<br />Braintree Braintree Electric Light Department (BELD) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/braintree-electric-light-department-beld/<br />Chester Chester Municipal Electric Department (CMELD) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/chester-municipal-electric-department-cmeld/</p><p>Concord Concord Municipal Light Plant (CMLP) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/concord-municipal-light-plant-cmlp/</p><p>Danvers Danvers Electric Division (DED) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/danvers-electric-division-ded/</p><p>Georgetown Georgetown Municipal Light Department (GMLD) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/georgetown-municipal-light-department-gmld/<br />Groveland Groveland Municipal Electric Department (GMED) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/groveland-municipal-electric-department-gmed/<br />Hingham Hingham Municipal Lighting Plant (HMLP) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/hingham-municipal-lighting-plant-hmlp/<br />Berlin | Bolton | Boxborough Hudson Light &amp; Power Department (HLPD) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/hudson-light-power-department-hlpd/<br />Hudson | Marlborough | Stow Hudson Municipal Light Department (HLPD) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/hudson-municipal-light-department-hlpd/<br />Littleton | Boxborough Littleton Electric Light &amp; Water Department (LELWD) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/littleton-electric-light-and-water-department-lelwd/<br />Mansfield Mansfield Municipal Electric Dept. (MMED) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/mansfield-municipal-electric-deptartment-mmed/<br />Merrimac Merrimac Municipal Light Department (MMLD) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/merrimac-municipal-light-department-mmld/<br />Middleborough | Lakeville Middleborough Gas &amp; Electric Department (MGED) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/middleborough-gas-electric-department-mged/<br />Middleton Middleton Municipal Electric Department (MMED) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/middleton-municipal-electric-department-mmed/<br />North Attleborough North Attleborough Electric Department (NAED) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/north-attleborough-electric-department-naed/<br />Norwood Norwood Municipal Light Department (NMLD) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/norwood-municipal-light-department-nmld/<br />Harrisville | Pascoag Pascoag Utility District (PUD) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/pascoag-utility-district-pud/<br />Reading | Lynnfield | North Reading | Wilmington Reading Municipal Light Department (RMLD) https://ee.ene.org/utilities/reading-municipal-light-department-rmld/<br />Rowley Rowley Municipal Light Plant (RMLP) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/rowley-municipal-light-plant-rmlp/<br />North Dighton | Taunton | Raynham | Berkley Taunton Municipal Lighting Plant (TMLP) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/taunton-municipal-lighting-plant-tmlp/<br />Needham | Wellesley Wellesley Municipal Light Plant (WMLP) http://ee.ene.org/utilities/wellesley-municipal-light-plant-wmlp/ </p><p> </p>		\n			<h2>More Information...if there is any</h2>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Make a list of concerns you have about your home, such as drafty rooms, old heating equipment, or high bills.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Also, please provide 12 Months of Heating Fuel usage (Oil, Propane, Gas, Wood, etc.) information to the Energy Advisor. If you do not have fuel usage information, please make our Advisor aware of this at the time of your assessment.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										If you have pets, kindly secure them. Please ensure full access to the home with clear access to the attic and basement, and if available a stable ladder.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Should you have any questions or concerns, please call the Energy New England Hotline at: <b>888-772-4242</b> or if you prefer email, <u>solutions@ene.org</u>.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','YOUR LOCAL UTILITY','','inherit','closed','closed','','18-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 19:40:31','2018-06-27 19:40:31','',18,'http://ee.ene.org/18-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1769,2,'2018-06-27 19:52:59','2018-06-27 19:52:59','<h2>Learn to make the most of your energy investment.</h2>		\n		Schedule your home energy assessment today.		\n			<a href=\"#\" role=\"button\">\n						GET STARTED\n					</a>\n			<h2>Let us help you navigate your energy future.</h2>		\n										<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />											\n			<h3>HOME  ENERGY ASSESSMENT</h3>		\n		Schedule a home energy assessment with one of our experienced advisors. You will  get expert advice and learn more about the energy efficiency improvements you can make to your home. Understand the common sources of energy waste in your home that have a negative impact on both the comfort of your living space and your wallet. 		\n										<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />											\n			<h3>RECOMMENDATIONS</h3>		\n		Want to learn more about recommendations made in your Home Energy Assessment? Your path to energy efficiency starts here. Find out what options you have and where to begin the process of making your home more efficient.		\n										<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />											\n			<h3>TOWNS WE SERVE</h3>		\n		Energy New England is proud to provide Energy Efficiency services for 20 municipal light plants in Massachusetts and Rhode Island. Many local utilities offer rebates on Energy Star<sup>®</sup> appliances, thermostats and weatherization. Discover the incentives available meant to assist you in your energy efficiency upgrades. In addition, see if your local utility offers other savings programs that may be right for you.		\n			<h4>Our Partners</h4>		\n			<h5>Helping to ensure an energy efficient future. </h5>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','HOME','','inherit','closed','closed','','10-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 19:52:59','2018-06-27 19:52:59','',10,'http://ee.ene.org/10-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1770,2,'2018-06-27 19:53:39','2018-06-27 19:53:39','<h2>Learn to make the most of your energy investment.</h2>		\n		Schedule your home energy assessment today.		\n			<a href=\"#\" role=\"button\">\n						GET STARTED\n					</a>\n			<h2>Let us help you navigate your energy future.</h2>		\n										<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />											\n			<h3>HOME  ENERGY ASSESSMENT</h3>		\n		Schedule a home energy assessment with one of our experienced advisors. You will  get expert advice and learn more about the energy efficiency improvements you can make to your home. Understand the common sources of energy waste in your home that have a negative impact on both the comfort of your living space and your wallet. 		\n										<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />											\n			<h3>RECOMMENDATIONS</h3>		\n		Want to learn more about recommendations made in your Home Energy Assessment? Your path to energy efficiency starts here. Find out what options you have and where to begin the process of making your home more efficient.		\n										<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />											\n			<h3>TOWNS WE SERVE</h3>		\n		Energy New England is proud to provide Energy Efficiency services for 20 municipal light plants in Massachusetts and Rhode Island. Many local utilities offer rebates on Energy Star<sup>®</sup> appliances, thermostats and weatherization. Discover the incentives available meant to assist you in your energy efficiency upgrades. In addition, see if your local utility offers other savings programs that may be right for you.		\n			<h4>Our Partners</h4>		\n			<h5>Helping to ensure an energy efficient future. </h5>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','HOME','','inherit','closed','closed','','10-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 19:53:39','2018-06-27 19:53:39','',10,'http://ee.ene.org/10-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1772,2,'2018-06-27 20:03:09','2018-06-27 20:03:09','<h2>Learn to make the most of your energy investment.</h2>		\n		Schedule your home energy assessment today.		\n			<a href=\"#\" role=\"button\">\n						GET STARTED\n					</a>\n			<h2>Let us help you navigate your energy future.</h2>		\n										<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />											\n			<h3>HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT</h3>		\n		Schedule a home energy assessment with one of our experienced advisors. You will  get expert advice and learn more about the energy efficiency improvements you can make to your home. Understand the common sources of energy waste in your home that have a negative impact on both the comfort of your living space and your wallet. 		\n										<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />											\n			<h3>RECOMMENDATIONS</h3>		\n		Want to learn more about recommendations made in your Home Energy Assessment? Your path to energy efficiency starts here. Find out what options you have and where to begin the process of making your home more efficient.		\n										<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />											\n			<h3>TOWNS WE SERVE</h3>		\n		Energy New England is proud to provide Energy Efficiency services for 20 municipal light plants in Massachusetts and Rhode Island. Many local utilities offer rebates on Energy Star<sup>®</sup> appliances, thermostats and weatherization. Discover the incentives available meant to assist you in your energy efficiency upgrades. In addition, see if your local utility offers other savings programs that may be right for you.		\n			<h4>Our Partners</h4>		\n			<h5>Helping to ensure an energy efficient future. </h5>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','HOME','','inherit','closed','closed','','10-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 20:03:09','2018-06-27 20:03:09','',10,'http://ee.ene.org/10-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1783,2,'2018-06-27 21:05:19','2018-06-27 21:05:19','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p>A small sentence about Recommendations.</p>		\n			<h2>Recommendations content</h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n		<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is an engineer who has been involved in energy efficiency for the 28 years. His field experience includes testing, diagnosis, and remediation of air leakage, duct leakage, airflow, combustion safety, and indoor air quality in residential buildings, as well as efficiency testing and troubleshooting of geothermal heat pumps. He has conducted training in energy-efficient residential construction, building science, mechanical systems, diagnostic techniques, and energy codes for designers, builders, building officials, and tradespeople. He currently lives in Stamford, Vermont, in an energy-efficient solar/electric house, which he designed and built.</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover-Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​-01.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover-Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​-01.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover-Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​-01-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover-Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​-01-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/Cover-Cut-Your-Energy-Bills​-01-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Cut Your Energy Bills</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/cut-your-energy-bills-bruce-harley-071230.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase at amazon\n					</a>\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/build-like-a-pro-insulate-and-weatherize-bruce-harley-070649.html#collateral-tabs\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RECOMMENDATIONS','','inherit','closed','closed','','16-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 21:05:19','2018-06-27 21:05:19','',16,'http://ee.ene.org/16-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1785,2,'2018-06-27 22:38:41','2018-06-27 22:38:41','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><a href=\"#anchor01>Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Attic Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance\nprofessional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 22:38:41','2018-06-27 22:38:41','',44,'http://ee.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1786,2,'2018-06-27 22:39:06','2018-06-27 22:39:06','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"><a href=\"anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Attic Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance\nprofessional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 22:39:06','2018-06-27 22:39:06','',44,'http://ee.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1788,2,'2018-06-27 22:42:41','2018-06-27 22:42:41','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<a href id=\"anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Attic Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance\nprofessional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 22:42:41','2018-06-27 22:42:41','',44,'http://ee.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1789,2,'2018-06-27 22:44:33','2018-06-27 22:44:33','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<a href id=\"anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Attic Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</p>\n<p style=\"font-size: 20px;\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance\nprofessional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 22:44:33','2018-06-27 22:44:33','',44,'http://ee.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1791,2,'2018-06-27 22:52:45','2018-06-27 22:52:45','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<h2><a id=\"anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></h2>\n<h2><a id=\"anchor01\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></h2>\n<h2><a id=\"anchor01\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></h2>\n<h2><a id=\"anchor01\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</h2>\n<h2><a id=\"anchor01\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h2>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance\nprofessional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 22:52:45','2018-06-27 22:52:45','',44,'http://ee.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1792,2,'2018-06-27 22:53:01','2018-06-27 22:53:01','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<h2><a id=\"anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></h2>\n<h2><a id=\"anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></h2>\n<h2><a id=\"anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></h2>\n<h2><a id=\"anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</h2>\n<h2><a id=\"anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h2>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance\nprofessional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 22:53:01','2018-06-27 22:53:01','',44,'http://ee.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1793,2,'2018-06-27 22:54:19','2018-06-27 22:54:19','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<h2><a href id=\"anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></h2>\n<h2><a href id=\"anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></h2>\n<h2><a href id=\"anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></h2>\n<h2><a href id=\"anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</h2>\n<h2><a href id=\"anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h2>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance\nprofessional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 22:54:19','2018-06-27 22:54:19','',44,'http://ee.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1794,2,'2018-06-27 22:56:01','2018-06-27 22:56:01','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<h2><a href id=\"anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></h2>\n<h2><a href=\"#anchor01\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></h2>\n<h2><a href id=\"anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></h2>\n<h2><a href id=\"anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</h2>\n<h2><a href id=\"anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h2>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance\nprofessional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 22:56:01','2018-06-27 22:56:01','',44,'http://ee.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1795,2,'2018-06-27 22:58:10','2018-06-27 22:58:10','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<h2><a href=\"#anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></h2><h2><a href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></h2><h2><a href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></h2><h2><a href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></h2><h2><a href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></h2>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance\nprofessional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 22:58:10','2018-06-27 22:58:10','',44,'http://ee.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1796,2,'2018-06-27 23:00:05','2018-06-27 23:00:05','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<h2><a href=\"#anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a>\n</h2>\n<h2><a href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></h2>\n<h2><a href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></h2>\n<h2><a href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></h2>\n<h2><a href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></h2>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance\nprofessional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 23:00:05','2018-06-27 23:00:05','',44,'http://ee.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1797,2,'2018-06-27 23:00:19','2018-06-27 23:00:19','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<h2><a href=\"#anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a>\n</h2>\n<h2><a href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></h2>\n<h2><a href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></h2>\n<h2><a href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></h2>\n<h2><a href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></h2>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance\nprofessional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 23:00:19','2018-06-27 23:00:19','',44,'http://ee.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1798,2,'2018-06-27 23:00:31','2018-06-27 23:00:31','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<h2><a href=\"#anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a>\n</h2>\n<h2><a href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></h2>\n<h2><a href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></h2>\n<h2><a href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></h2>\n<h2><a href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></h2>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance\nprofessional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 23:00:31','2018-06-27 23:00:31','',44,'http://ee.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1799,2,'2018-06-27 23:03:52','2018-06-27 23:03:52','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<h2><a href=\"#anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></h2>\n<h2><a href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></h2>\n<h2><a href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></h2>\n<h2><a href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></h2>\n<h2><a href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></h2>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance\nprofessional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 23:03:52','2018-06-27 23:03:52','',44,'http://ee.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1801,2,'2018-06-27 23:18:55','2018-06-27 23:18:55','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\">Ai</a><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\">r-</a><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\">Sealing</a><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\"> Priorities</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance\nprofessional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 23:18:55','2018-06-27 23:18:55','',44,'http://ee.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1802,2,'2018-06-27 23:19:40','2018-06-27 23:19:40','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\">Ai</a><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\">r-</a><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\">Sealing</a><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\"> Priorities</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance\nprofessional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 23:19:40','2018-06-27 23:19:40','',44,'http://ee.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1803,2,'2018-06-27 23:27:29','2018-06-27 23:27:29','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\">Ai</a><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\">r-</a><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\">Sealing</a><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\"> Priorities</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance\nprofessional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 23:27:29','2018-06-27 23:27:29','',44,'http://ee.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1805,2,'2018-06-27 23:29:29','2018-06-27 23:29:29','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\">Ai</a><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\">r-</a><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\">Sealing</a><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\"> Priorities</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance\nprofessional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 23:29:29','2018-06-27 23:29:29','',44,'http://ee.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1807,2,'2018-06-27 23:40:11','2018-06-27 23:40:11','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\">Ai</a><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\">r-</a><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\">Sealing</a><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\"> Priorities</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance\nprofessional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 23:40:11','2018-06-27 23:40:11','',44,'http://ee.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1811,2,'2018-06-27 23:58:45','2018-06-27 23:58:45','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\">Ai</a><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\">r-</a><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\">Sealing</a><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor01\"> Priorities</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></p><p><a style=\"color: #217094;\" href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A buildingperformance\nprofessional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-06-27 23:58:45','2018-06-27 23:58:45','',44,'http://ee.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),