(11501,1981,'_elementor_data','[{\"id\":\"19c1\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"background_background\":\"gradient\",\"margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":0,\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":0,\"isLinked\":true},\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3f08\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7e70\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"<p>Air-Sealing Priorities<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1093\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home\\u2019s energy efficiency. You\\u2019ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6f8e\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"65fd\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"593e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Air-Sealing Priorities<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Attic Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Sidewall Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3fba\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5ddd\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4f1e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"5897\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Air-Sealing Priorities\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2ce3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"624b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities.png\",\"id\":1505},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2d7\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2309\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6497\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Seal the high and low leaks\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7e15\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.<\\/p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.<\\/p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab\\u2014the home\\u2019s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"10ff\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"426\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4e9a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Attic Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"643e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>When walking around your house, you\\u2019re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don\\u2019t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don\\u2019t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can\\u2019t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible\\u2014from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that\\u2019s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"493b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"3674\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><b>Attic Bypasses<\\/b><\\/p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:<\\/p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).<\\/li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.<\\/li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).<\\/li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).<\\/li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.<\\/li><\\/ol>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3069\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Through-framing into attics\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7b19\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks.\\u00a0<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"390e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"e11\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Recessed lights\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6799\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Recessed \\u201ccan\\u201d light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn\\u2019t get too hot. Also, an older unit can\\u2019t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big \\u201chole\\u201d for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or \\u201cIC.\\u201d The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1bb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Other special situations\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6dd2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don\\u2019t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can\\u2019t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<\\/p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It\\u2019s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.<\\/p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<\\/p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2e07\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"633\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"35d2\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"285\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"54b6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5d09\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2dcd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement walls\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"aff\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill\\/band joist area.<\\/p><p><b>Service penetrations<\\/b>\\u00a0Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).<\\/p><p><b>Stepped foundation<\\/b>\\u00a0walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.<\\/p><p><b>Bulkhead doors\\u00a0<\\/b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.<\\/p><p><b>Sills and band joists<\\/b>\\u00a0The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1edf\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5308\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"509b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"d6c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Safety First\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6b4f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas\\u2014 including radon\\u2014that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov\\/radon<\\/u> for more information.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"60f6\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"gap\":\"no\",\"custom_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":800},\"content_position\":\"middle\",\"structure\":\"21\",\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"25\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"20\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"20\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"21be\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":33,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"10\",\"isLinked\":true},\"content_position\":\"top\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2fff\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":1521,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/blower-door-test.jpg\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6ee5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":66,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"50\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7f4b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blower-door testing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"db7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5cf3\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4fdb\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5925\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"17e3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. 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Water Heaters<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3e9\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2a4a\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3c10\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Maintenance and Efficiency Upgrades<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Replacing Hot Water Systems<\\/a>\\n\\n\\n\\n\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5349\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"65dc\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3798\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"129c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Maintenance and Efficiency Upgrades\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"384a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The vast majority of homes in the United States have stand-alone water heaters. These are independent hot-water storage tanks with their own heat source, with the sole function of providing domestic hot water. A home that is heated by a boiler is likely to have a tankless coil or an indirect-fired storage tank. Standard gas water heaters are cheap and inefficient. They are typically expected to last only 5 to 15 years, so most people do not invest much money in them. Replacing a water heater tends to be an emergency event, full of stress because the old water heater has suddenly failed. Proper maintenance can extend the life of a water heater, and some efficiency improvements can be made to existing tanks with minimal investment; but if you have a standard water heater made before 2005, it may make more sense to upgrade to a very high-efficiency unit and not try to make the old one last longer. If your present water heater appears to be near the end of its useful life, now is the time to do research on the right type of replacement unit. Then you will be well prepared, whether you decide to wait until the old one goes or to replace the tank at your convenience.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3bd8\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4fc6\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6c17\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Two types of tanks: Gas and electric\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1298\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Stand-alone water heaters come in two basic types: gas and electric. Gas water heaters, fired with piped natural or LP gas, are the most common. Gas water heaters are usually smaller than electric water heaters, because their burners produce more heat than an electric heating element. A capacity of 40 to 50 gal. is typical for most houses.\\n\\nElectric water heaters in single-family homes often hold 50 to 80 gal. Electric water heaters don\\u2019t require a fuel supply in the house, so they are a common choice for homes where piped natural gas is unavailable and where a heat pump provides the space heating.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4221\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"36c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"183d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Hot-Water_heaters_Pic1.png\",\"id\":2061},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true},\"caption\":\"Typically, gas water heaters don\\u2019t have degree markings, but the recommended target temperature of 120\\u00b0F is usually between \\u201cWarm\\u201d and \\u201cMedium.\\u201d It may take some trial and error to find a setting that\\u2019s just right.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"6402\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Setting the temperature\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9e1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The temperature of many hot-water heaters can be lowered without any noticeable reduction in the hot-water supply. Lowering the temperature of stored hot water saves energy by reducing conductive heat loss through the tank surfaces, called standby loss. Standby losses depend on the location of the tank (how cold it is outside the tank), how well the tank is insulated, and where the tank is located (in a cold climate, most losses in the winter just contribute to heating the house). The better insulated the tank and the greater your hot-water use, the less savings a temperature setback will provide.\\n\\nReducing the temperature setting by 10\\u00b0F may save 2 percent to 5 percent of your water heating costs. The investment is $0, and it\\u2019s easy to readjust if you turn it down too much. In addition to energy savings, a lower tank temperature reduces scaling and corrosion and increases the life of the tank. The thermostat knob on a gas water heater is usually located at the front of the gas valve. Look carefully at the markings; on many gas water heaters, counterclockwise rotation increases the temperature setting. Electric tanks have two thermostats\\u2014one for each element\\u2014located behind metal covers near the bottom and the top of the tank. Because there is exposed wiring inside, shut off the circuit breaker before unscrewing the covers. Set both elements to about the same temperature, or set the top element just slightly cooler so the bottom element activates first.\\n\\nHot water stored below 120\\u00b0F may increase the risk of Legionella pneumophili bacteria, which can cause pneumonia. But Legionella infections in single-family homes are quite rare compared to the risk of scalding, which increases rapidly at tank temperatures over 120\\u00b0F. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission recommends all home water heaters be set at 120\\u00b0F, and even at that temperature third degree burns can occur with exposures of five minutes or more. Antiscald mixing valves can help keep children and elders, who are at higher risk for burns, safe.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7a0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Insulating hot-water pipes\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7fd6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Hot-water pipes lose energy in two ways: through conductive losses in pipe walls while hot water is running and through thermosiphon effects.  Pipe insulation is readily available at most home centers and hardware stores and is easy to install. The biggest benefit from pipe insulation occurs within the first 10 ft. of the tank. Be sure to use the right diameter of insulation; most homes have a mixture of 1\\u20442-in. and 3\\u20444-in. pipes, so it\\u2019s a good idea to measure how much of each you will need.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5d4c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Hot-Water_Heaters_Pic2.png\",\"id\":2064},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"The most common pipe insulation is made from polyethylene and is widely available at hardware stores and home centers.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"42cd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Maintenance\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"390\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"There are two basic maintenance operations that can increase a tank\\u2019s lifespan. One is to regularly flush out debris and scale, which can also improve the efficiency of your tank by improving heat transfer. Annually flushing water through the drain valve at the bottom can help wash away the crud. Don\\u2019t try to drain the tank; the force of the cold-water pressure helps stir up the material. But you might want to shut off the heater overnight before doing this, to avoid wasting gallons of hot water. Unfortunately, most drain valves that are installed at the factory don\\u2019t allow much sediment to pass through, so it\\u2019s better to replace it with a full-flow ball valve. Flushing is also more effective if the tank has a dip tube with a curve at the bottom that swirls incoming water around the base of the tank.\\n\\nThe other thing that can be done to extend the life of a water heater is to replace the anode rod periodically. The anode rod, typically made of magnesium formed around steel wire, is designed to corrode before the steel tank does. Once the magnesium material has decomposed or is covered with scale, the anode stops working and the tank will start to deteriorate. Anode rods are designed to last for about 5 years, depending, of course, on the water: typically, just a little longer than the tank\\u2019s warranty. You will probably need a heavy-duty socket wrench with a breaker bar to unthread the anode rod. Don\\u2019t try to remove it until you have a new replacement rod handy. And be very careful not to damage the tank or the water fittings when removing the rod. Replacement anode rods are available at plumbing supply houses for $20 to $40. Of course, you will need to shut off the tank and the incoming water supply, and partially empty the tank before replacing an anode rod.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3f01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"42d8\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7fd4\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5194\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"3238\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Replacing Hot-Water Systems\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4e42\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"When it is time to buy a new hot-water heater, it makes sense to install the most efficient replacement system possible. But choosing a water heater can be confusing; there are many different styles of high-efficiency units with competing claims of superiority. Which type will work best for you depends on the type of hot water and heating systems already in your house. If you have a furnace, then you will need some type of independent, stand-alone water heater. If you have a hot-water boiler, it usually makes sense to use it for water heating, especially if the boiler is a newer, efficient model. Stand-alone, standard LP-gas, or oil-fired water heaters are the most expensive to operate; if you have one of these, or if you heat your house with electric resistance or a heat pump, you might benefit from either a super-high-efficiency condensing water heater, a heat pump water heater (HPWH; or a solar water-heating system).\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3f72\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Water-heater efficiency\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5e68\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"There are three basic types of replacement water heaters that work on their own (without a boiler): storage tanks, on-demand units (sometimes called tankless water heaters), and heat pump water heaters. Any of these types except the heat pump are available in either gas or electric models. Most have high-efficiency versions, and all have pros and cons. Every new water heater has an efficiency rating (called an energy\\nfactor, or EF) listed with AHRI. Today\\u2019s water heaters have EFs that range from about 0.50 to 0.97 (except for heat pumps); try to get a water heater with the highest EF rating for the type of application you need.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"488b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Tank-type water heaters\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3d37\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Most standard gas water heaters have EF ratings in the high 50s\\u2014that means over 40 percent of the energy is wasted. Until recently, the highest efficiency tank-type units you could buy were in the low 60s; most had efficient burners, electronic pilots, and high insulation levels. There is a new generation of high-efficiency tank-type water heaters emerging that have higher energy factors. For example, the KenmoreR Elite uses a special air intake and other features to achieve an EF of 0.7. Both the Kenmore and the RheemR Fury (0.67 EF) use electronic vent dampers. Although not the highest efficiency available, these products provide a sizable performance boost at a modest price increase over a standard gas water heater.\\n\\nThe most efficient units on the market are condensing gas water heaters; they typically have EF ratings of 0.90 or higher. The best ones have stainless-steel tanks and high firing rates\\u2014typically around 90,000 to 120,000 Btu per hour, two to three times that of a typical tank. Because of their high cost\\u2014roughly $1,500 to $2,500\\u2014condensing water heaters may be more appropriate for supplying whole-house heating as well as hot water. Their high heat output makes them well suited for supplying a hydro-air system. A hydro-air handler used in conjunction with a condensing gas water heater is probably one of the most efficient replacements for an old, inefficient gas furnace and a standard electric or gas water-heating tank, especially if you have piped natural gas and live in a cold or mixed climate. Standard electric tank-type water heaters appear to be more efficient than gas units, with EFs ranging from about 0.86 to 0.95. \\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"22a3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Hot-Water_Heaters_Pic3.png\",\"id\":2065},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"All new water heaters are required to have an Energy Guide label, which compares the energy use of this model to that of similar models. Buyers beware: \\u201cEnergy Saver\\u201d is a common name found on water heaters, but it can be almost meaningless. Few water heaters have their EF rating listed on the tank, but you can look it up in the AHRI directory online.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"2a4a814\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The energy factor, or EF rating, is based on a standardized test that takes into account burner efficiency, pilot usage, and standby losses for \\u201ctypical\\u201d hot-water usage. EF ratings for gas, oil, and electric water\\nheaters can be found at www.ahridirectory.org under \\u201cresidential water heaters.\\u201d The directory\\nalso shows first-hour ratings and the burner efficiency, which is called \\u201crecovery efficiency.\\u201d\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"317c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Tankless water heaters\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"d84\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"At the other end of the spectrum is the tankless or on-demand water heater. The premise of a tankless water heater is to save energy by eliminating the storage tank and its associated standby losses, using a large gas burner to heat water only when you need it. (Don\\u2019t confuse this with a tankless water-heating coil that\\u2019s run from a boiler; these waste far more energy by keeping the boiler hot all year.)\\n\\nOn-demand water heaters have higher EF ratings than conventional water heaters. Gas on-demand water heaters fall into two groups: those with standard gas burners and EF ratings in the low 80s, and those with condensing burners and EFs in the 90s. Savings will be lower than the EF ratings (and marketing literature) indicate, about $80 to $100 per year (assuming national average of $1.20\\/therm). The modest savings make it hard to recoup your investment in a reasonable time: Tankless water heaters cost between $800 and $1,500. Installation cost is also likely to be high; larger gas lines are typically needed, and in many cases new electrical service. Other advantages of tankless water heaters are their small size and their ability to provide hot water continuously, but there are some drawbacks as well. The burner starts when a hot-water tap is opened, by sensing the drop in pressure, so some cold water always flows into the heat exchanger at first. If you use hot water intermittently, or take a shower right after another family member, you may end up with surprise \\u201cslug\\u201d of cold water each time. The total flow of hot water in GPM is also limited by the burner capacity, so sizing these units is less forgiving than water heaters with some storage. Some tankless units have small storage tanks built in to reduce these troubles, or an external tank can be added.\\n\\nFinally, on-demand water heaters are sensitive to minerals\\u2014if you have hard water, the annual service that\\u2019s needed will cut into the savings. I don\\u2019t generally recommend on-demand units for most existing-tank replacements, but these heaters can make sense in a major renovation. Electric tankless heaters are also available, but they are not typically suitable for whole-house service\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6e6cbf3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Indirect-fired tank (with boiler)\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2144536\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you heat your house with a hot-water boiler, an indirect-fired water heater can generate hot water more efficiently than a tankless coil or most stand-alone units. The storage tank contains a thermostat that requests heat from the boiler, just like a separate heating zone. To get the best efficiency from an indirect storage tank, the boiler has to have the right controls: It needs to be set up for \\u201ccold start\\u201d and should also include a purge cycle. Generally, the control should also include a 30-minute hot-water priority. This ensures that you always have hot water, even on a cold morning when the boiler is needed for space heating.\\n\\nMany indirect-fired tanks have a built-in heat exchanger. Boiler water is pumped through the heat exchanger, heating water in the tank without mixing boiler water with the potable water supply. Alternatively, almost any type of insulated storage tank can be combined with an external heat exchanger to produce hot water from a boiler. An external heat exchanger requires two circulating pumps, adding a small electrical load. But when the unit is properly sized, the heat transfer is very efficient. All piping between the boiler and the storage tank must be thoroughly insulated to minimize heat loss, including any external heat exchanger (don\\u2019t insulate pump bodies). Indirect tanks have AHRI efficiency ratings, but they don\\u2019t have EF ratings like other water heaters. This is because any boiler can provide the heat\\nsource with a wide range of efficiencies. Indirect tanks are rated for \\u201cstandby loss\\u201d in a range from 0.4 to over 1.0; try to aim for 0.8 or less. Smaller tanks tend to have higher losses per hour, but they are cheaper and take up less space. Look for the lowest standby loss available with a first-hour rating that suits your needs.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"c0e7171\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat pump water heaters\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"371bd92\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The heat pump water heater is based on a great concept: Use electricity to extract heat from the air and deliver it to the hot water at a higher temperature. The heat extracted from the air is free, and theoretically the net efficiency could be 300 percent or more. Early models had trouble with reliability, service, and price, but a new generation of HPWHs has emerged that seems to offer better efficiency and reliability at a price range of about $1,300 to $2,000. HPWHs have EFs in the range of 2.0 to 2.5, which means that more than half the heat comes from the environment around the heater. There are a number of factors that affect the real installed efficiency. First, controls in most units allow for resistance heat to turn on when demand is high or surrounding air temperatures are low; this can really cut into the overall efficiency, depending on how the control is set and how you use hot water. The most efficient units have smaller electric backup heaters (less than 2,500 watts) and run the heat pump even while the resistance heat is on. Larger tanks also tend to run more efficiently than small tanks. Also, the heat comes from the air around the tank. If you live in a cold climate, that heat may not be free: If the tank is in a conditioned space, you\\u2019ve already paid to heat it up. If it\\u2019s in an unconditioned basement, the air may get cold and efficiency will suffer. At the same time, air that is exhausted from the heat pump is cool and dry, so running an HPWH in a basement may reduce dehumidification needs. Some units allow for a duct to divert the chilled air output outdoors in cold weather. Of course, in a warm climate a HPWH will help cool your house, saving even more on your electric bills. The bottom line is this: If you are looking to replace an existing electric or LP-gas water heater, consider getting a HPWH if you live in a mixed or hot climate. Average savings should be around $300 per year, so payback on the $1,000 to $1,500 increased cost is fairly reasonable. Savings may be higher where electric rates are higher than average, even in colder climates. Savings will tend to be largest when hot-water use is high.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6462\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":2068,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Hot_Water_Heater_Pic4.png\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"This \\u201chybrid\\u201d heat pump water heater produces hot water at a savings of about 50 percent when compared to conventional electric water heaters. 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Priorities<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4a47\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home\\u2019s energy efficiency. You\\u2019ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3e9\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2a4a\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3c10\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Air-Sealing Priorities<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Attic Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Sidewall Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5349\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"65dc\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3798\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"129c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Air-Sealing Priorities\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"384a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"183d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities.png\",\"id\":1505},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3bd8\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4fc6\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6c17\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Seal the high and low leaks\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1298\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.<\\/p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.<\\/p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab\\u2014the home\\u2019s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4221\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"36c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2bc2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Attic Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"22d6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>When walking around your house, you\\u2019re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don\\u2019t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don\\u2019t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can\\u2019t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible\\u2014from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that\\u2019s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7f93\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"2025\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><b>Attic Bypasses<\\/b><\\/p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:<\\/p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).<\\/li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.<\\/li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).<\\/li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).<\\/li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.<\\/li><\\/ol>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6402\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Through-framing into attics\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9e1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks.\\u00a0<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5d4c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"7a0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Recessed lights\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7fd6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Recessed \\u201ccan\\u201d light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn\\u2019t get too hot. Also, an older unit can\\u2019t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big \\u201chole\\u201d for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or \\u201cIC.\\u201d The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"42cd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Other special situations\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"390\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don\\u2019t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can\\u2019t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<\\/p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It\\u2019s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.<\\/p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<\\/p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3f01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"42d8\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7fd4\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5194\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"3238\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4e42\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3f72\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement walls\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5e68\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill\\/band joist area.<\\/p><p><b>Service penetrations<\\/b>\\u00a0Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).<\\/p><p><b>Stepped foundation<\\/b>\\u00a0walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.<\\/p><p><b>Bulkhead doors\\u00a0<\\/b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.<\\/p><p><b>Sills and band joists<\\/b>\\u00a0The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"22a3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"488b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3d37\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"317c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Safety First\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"d84\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas\\u2014 including radon\\u2014that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov\\/radon<\\/u> for more information.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"b8f\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"gap\":\"no\",\"custom_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":800},\"content_position\":\"middle\",\"structure\":\"21\",\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"25\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"20\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"20\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"56b2\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":33,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"10\",\"isLinked\":true},\"content_position\":\"top\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6462\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":1521,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/blower-door-test.jpg\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"11d5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":66,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"50\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"76e7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blower-door testing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7d08\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4e0c\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5905\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2cf0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3855\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it\\u2019s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"35fb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Crawlspaces\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5239\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1fde\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Slab-on-grade\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"69fd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"63e7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"73d4\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"45fc\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3b04\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7462\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sidewall Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5a29\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7b21\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Service penetrations\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4983\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"11eb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Transitions in exterior wall framing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7b8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. 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Priorities<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1093\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home\\u2019s energy efficiency. You\\u2019ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6f8e\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"65fd\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"593e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Air-Sealing Priorities<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Attic Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Sidewall Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3fba\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5ddd\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4f1e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"5897\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Air-Sealing Priorities\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2ce3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"624b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities.png\",\"id\":1505},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2d7\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2309\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6497\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Seal the high and low leaks\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7e15\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.<\\/p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.<\\/p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab\\u2014the home\\u2019s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"10ff\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"426\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4e9a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Attic Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"643e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>When walking around your house, you\\u2019re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don\\u2019t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don\\u2019t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can\\u2019t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible\\u2014from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that\\u2019s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"493b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"3674\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><b>Attic Bypasses<\\/b><\\/p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:<\\/p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).<\\/li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.<\\/li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).<\\/li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).<\\/li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.<\\/li><\\/ol>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3069\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Through-framing into attics\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7b19\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks.\\u00a0<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"390e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"e11\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Recessed lights\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6799\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Recessed \\u201ccan\\u201d light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn\\u2019t get too hot. Also, an older unit can\\u2019t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big \\u201chole\\u201d for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or \\u201cIC.\\u201d The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1bb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Other special situations\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6dd2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don\\u2019t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can\\u2019t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<\\/p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It\\u2019s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.<\\/p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<\\/p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2e07\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"633\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"35d2\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"285\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"54b6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5d09\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2dcd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement walls\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"aff\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill\\/band joist area.<\\/p><p><b>Service penetrations<\\/b>\\u00a0Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).<\\/p><p><b>Stepped foundation<\\/b>\\u00a0walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.<\\/p><p><b>Bulkhead doors\\u00a0<\\/b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.<\\/p><p><b>Sills and band joists<\\/b>\\u00a0The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1edf\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5308\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"509b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"d6c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Safety First\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6b4f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas\\u2014 including radon\\u2014that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov\\/radon<\\/u> for more information.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"60f6\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"gap\":\"no\",\"custom_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":800},\"content_position\":\"middle\",\"structure\":\"21\",\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"25\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"20\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"20\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"21be\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":33,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"10\",\"isLinked\":true},\"content_position\":\"top\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2fff\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":1521,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/blower-door-test.jpg\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6ee5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":66,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"50\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7f4b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blower-door testing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"db7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5cf3\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4fdb\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5925\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"17e3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it\\u2019s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6e78\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Crawlspaces\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5838\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"20b0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Slab-on-grade\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b93\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3db6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3576\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2955\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7385\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"1cf1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sidewall Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2536\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5afb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Service penetrations\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"795f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1cc7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Transitions in exterior wall framing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3dc0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6473\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"11f4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"ea0\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4c7d\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4475\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"3ec3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor05\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"55a8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don\\u2019t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal 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Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.<\\/p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.<\\/p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab\\u2014the home\\u2019s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4221\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"36c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2bc2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Attic Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"22d6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>When walking around your house, you\\u2019re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don\\u2019t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don\\u2019t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can\\u2019t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible\\u2014from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that\\u2019s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7f93\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"2025\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><b>Attic Bypasses<\\/b><\\/p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:<\\/p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).<\\/li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.<\\/li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).<\\/li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).<\\/li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.<\\/li><\\/ol>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6402\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Through-framing into attics\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9e1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks.\\u00a0<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5d4c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"7a0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Recessed lights\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7fd6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Recessed \\u201ccan\\u201d light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn\\u2019t get too hot. Also, an older unit can\\u2019t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big \\u201chole\\u201d for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or \\u201cIC.\\u201d The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"42cd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Other special situations\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"390\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don\\u2019t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can\\u2019t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<\\/p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It\\u2019s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.<\\/p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<\\/p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3f01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"42d8\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7fd4\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5194\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"3238\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4e42\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3f72\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement walls\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5e68\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill\\/band joist area.<\\/p><p><b>Service penetrations<\\/b>\\u00a0Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).<\\/p><p><b>Stepped foundation<\\/b>\\u00a0walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.<\\/p><p><b>Bulkhead doors\\u00a0<\\/b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.<\\/p><p><b>Sills and band joists<\\/b>\\u00a0The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"22a3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"488b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3d37\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"317c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Safety First\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"d84\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas\\u2014 including radon\\u2014that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov\\/radon<\\/u> for more information.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"b8f\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"gap\":\"no\",\"custom_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":800},\"content_position\":\"middle\",\"structure\":\"21\",\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"25\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"20\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"20\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"56b2\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":33,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"10\",\"isLinked\":true},\"content_position\":\"top\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6462\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":1521,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/blower-door-test.jpg\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"11d5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":66,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"50\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"76e7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blower-door testing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7d08\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4e0c\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5905\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2cf0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3855\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it\\u2019s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"35fb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Crawlspaces\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5239\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1fde\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Slab-on-grade\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"69fd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"63e7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"73d4\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"45fc\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3b04\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7462\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sidewall Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5a29\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7b21\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Service penetrations\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4983\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"11eb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Transitions in exterior wall framing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7b8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. 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Priorities<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1093\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home\\u2019s energy efficiency. You\\u2019ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6f8e\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"65fd\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"593e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Air-Sealing Priorities<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Attic Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Sidewall Air-Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3fba\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5ddd\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4f1e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"5897\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Air-Sealing Priorities\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2ce3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"624b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities.png\",\"id\":1505},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2d7\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2309\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6497\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Seal the high and low leaks\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7e15\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.<\\/p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.<\\/p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab\\u2014the home\\u2019s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"10ff\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"426\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4e9a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Attic Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"643e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>When walking around your house, you\\u2019re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don\\u2019t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don\\u2019t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can\\u2019t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible\\u2014from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that\\u2019s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"493b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"3674\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><b>Attic Bypasses<\\/b><\\/p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:<\\/p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).<\\/li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.<\\/li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).<\\/li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).<\\/li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.<\\/li><\\/ol>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3069\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Through-framing into attics\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7b19\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks.\\u00a0<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"390e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"e11\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Recessed lights\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6799\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Recessed \\u201ccan\\u201d light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn\\u2019t get too hot. Also, an older unit can\\u2019t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big \\u201chole\\u201d for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or \\u201cIC.\\u201d The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1bb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Other special situations\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6dd2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don\\u2019t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can\\u2019t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<\\/p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It\\u2019s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.<\\/p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<\\/p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2e07\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"633\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"35d2\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"285\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"54b6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5d09\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2dcd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement walls\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"aff\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill\\/band joist area.<\\/p><p><b>Service penetrations<\\/b>\\u00a0Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).<\\/p><p><b>Stepped foundation<\\/b>\\u00a0walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.<\\/p><p><b>Bulkhead doors\\u00a0<\\/b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.<\\/p><p><b>Sills and band joists<\\/b>\\u00a0The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1edf\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5308\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"509b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"d6c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Safety First\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6b4f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas\\u2014 including radon\\u2014that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov\\/radon<\\/u> for more information.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"60f6\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"gap\":\"no\",\"custom_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":800},\"content_position\":\"middle\",\"structure\":\"21\",\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"25\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"20\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"20\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"21be\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":33,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"10\",\"isLinked\":true},\"content_position\":\"top\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2fff\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":1521,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/blower-door-test.jpg\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6ee5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":66,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"50\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7f4b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blower-door testing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"db7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5cf3\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4fdb\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5925\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"17e3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it\\u2019s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6e78\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Crawlspaces\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5838\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"20b0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Slab-on-grade\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b93\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3db6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3576\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2955\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7385\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"1cf1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sidewall Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2536\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5afb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Service penetrations\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"795f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1cc7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Transitions in exterior wall framing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3dc0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6473\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"11f4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"ea0\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4c7d\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4475\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"3ec3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor05\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"55a8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don\\u2019t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal 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& Lighting<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances\\u2019 energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3198\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"c75\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"19323f4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Reducing Run Time<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Improving Efficiency<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Smart Shopping for New Appliances<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Lighting<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"24d0\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"17d5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"28bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6c51\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing Run Time\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"507f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don\\u2019t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It\\u2019s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back when temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more\\u2014provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don\\u2019t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative humidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\\n\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"e78bebe\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5236\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"31c9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"0d42bd8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Improving efficiency\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"182f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>It\\u2019s also possible to improve the efficiency of some appliances. Efficiency can often be increased by simple maintenance or by choosing the proper settings when using appliances.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"e23d211\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Refrigeration \",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"c6e4ba7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The refrigerator is typically the biggest electricity user in the kitchen and is often the largest in the house. If your refrigerator is getting old, it\\u2019s probably worth replacing it with a new Energy Star model. New, efficient refrigerators use less than half the energy of standard models before 1993. If you are lucky enough to have a refrigerator that dates back to the 1970s or early 1980s and it still runs, take it to the recycle center. Even if it\\u2019s the spare in the basement or garage, the energy savings will pay for a brand-new unit in just a few years. And buy the smallest, simplest fridge that will meet your needs; large Energy Star models use more electricity than smaller ones; through-door ice and water also use energy.\\n\\nTo keep any refrigerator running right, ensure adequate air circulation around the unit. Keep it a few inches away from the wall, and don\\u2019t box it in with cabinets. It\\u2019s a good idea to vacuum the grill periodically, but there is no evidence that vacuuming dust off the coils inside actually saves electricity. Make sure the door seals are tight, keep the unit away from heat sources (don\\u2019t put it next to the stove or dishwasher) and check the temperature setting. The refrigerator compartments should stay between 38\\u00b0F and 42\\u00b0F, and the freezer between 0\\u00b0F and 5\\u00b0F. If you have a power-saving switch, use it. Typically, the switch disables internal heaters that fight condensation; turn it off only if condensation occurs. Finally, keep refrigerators and freezers reasonably full; they are less efficient when they are nearly empty. Even more important, avoid the temptation to keep the old fridge in the garage or basement for overflow (or the odd six-pack). Buying a new, highly efficient refrigerator won\\u2019t save any energy if you keep the old one running!\\n\\nIt\\u2019s a common mistake to assume that if the fridge is only keeping a few items cold it\\u2019s not working very hard. A refrigerator uses most of its energy keeping the inside of the box cold\\u2014even if it\\u2019s completely empty. If you can\\u2019t do without it, unplug the spare until you need it to stock up for that holiday gathering. One more buying tip: A manual-defrost chest freezer uses far less energy than an upright, auto-defrost unit. Modern, airtight chest freezers rarely need defrosting, and are less likely to damage food with freezer burn.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"0ee8b16\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Laundry\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"068c9e0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Washing clothes uses energy in three ways: Washers and dryers have motors that move clothes and water; washers use hot water, which is heated with gas or electricity; and dryers heat clothes to dry them out. 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