[{"id":"1d0a","elType":"section","settings":{"background_background":"gradient","margin":{"unit":"px","top":"0","right":0,"bottom":"0","left":0,"isLinked":true},"padding":{"unit":"px","top":"0","right":"0","bottom":"0","left":"0","isLinked":true}},"elements":[{"id":"6ffa","elType":"column","settings":{"_column_size":100},"elements":[{"id":"6ad0","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"<p>Hot Water Heaters<span style=\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\"><\/span><\/p>","align":"center","title_color":"#217094","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_family":"Open Sans","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":48},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":36},"typography_font_weight":"normal","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":60},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":46},"_background_color":"#217094","_background_color_b":"#217094","_background_gradient_angle":{"unit":"deg","size":190}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"}],"isInner":false}],"isInner":false},{"id":"3e9","elType":"section","settings":[],"elements":[{"id":"2a4a","elType":"column","settings":{"_column_size":100,"color_text":"#333333","color_link":"#217094","color_link_hover":"#7a7a7a","text_align":"left"},"elements":[{"id":"3c10","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Maintenance and Efficiency Upgrades<\/a><\/p>\n\n<a href=\"#anchor02\">Replacing Hot Water Systems<\/a>\n\n\n\n","text_color":"#217094","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":20},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":30},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":28},"custom_css":"#anchor01\n#anchor02\n#anchor03\n#anchor04\n#anchor05\n"},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"}],"isInner":false}],"isInner":false},{"id":"5349","elType":"section","settings":[],"elements":[{"id":"65dc","elType":"column","settings":{"_column_size":100,"_inline_size":null},"elements":[{"id":"3798","elType":"widget","settings":{"color":"#7a7a7a"},"elements":[],"widgetType":"divider"},{"id":"129c","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Maintenance and Efficiency Upgrades","header_size":"h1","title_color":"#217094","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":24},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":34},"_element_id":"anchor01"},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"384a","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"The vast majority of homes in the United States have stand-alone water heaters. These are independent hot-water storage tanks with their own heat source, with the sole function of providing domestic hot water. A home that is heated by a boiler is likely to have a tankless coil or an indirect-fired storage tank. Standard gas water heaters are cheap and inefficient. They are typically expected to last only 5 to 15 years, so most people do not invest much money in them. Replacing a water heater tends to be an emergency event, full of stress because the old water heater has suddenly failed. Proper maintenance can extend the life of a water heater, and some efficiency improvements can be made to existing tanks with minimal investment; but if you have a standard water heater made before 2005, it may make more sense to upgrade to a very high-efficiency unit and not try to make the old one last longer. If your present water heater appears to be near the end of its useful life, now is the time to do research on the right type of replacement unit. Then you will be well prepared, whether you decide to wait until the old one goes or to replace the tank at your convenience.","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":24},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"}],"isInner":false}],"isInner":false},{"id":"3bd8","elType":"section","settings":[],"elements":[{"id":"4fc6","elType":"column","settings":{"_column_size":100,"_inline_size":null},"elements":[{"id":"6c17","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Two types of tanks: Gas and electric","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"1298","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"Stand-alone water heaters come in two basic types: gas and electric. Gas water heaters, fired with piped natural or LP gas, are the most common. Gas water heaters are usually smaller than electric water heaters, because their burners produce more heat than an electric heating element. A capacity of 40 to 50 gal. is typical for most houses.\n\nElectric water heaters in single-family homes often hold 50 to 80 gal. Electric water heaters don\u2019t require a fuel supply in the house, so they are a common choice for homes where piped natural gas is unavailable and where a heat pump provides the space heating.\n","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"}],"isInner":false}],"isInner":false},{"id":"4221","elType":"section","settings":[],"elements":[{"id":"36c","elType":"column","settings":{"_column_size":100,"_inline_size":null},"elements":[{"id":"183d","elType":"widget","settings":{"image":{"url":"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Hot-Water_heaters_Pic1.png","id":2061},"image_size":"custom","align":"center","image_custom_dimension":{"width":"700","height":""},"_margin_mobile":{"unit":"px","top":"0","right":"0","bottom":"0","left":"0","isLinked":true},"caption":"Typically, gas water heaters don\u2019t have degree markings, but the recommended target temperature of 120\u00b0F is usually between \u201cWarm\u201d and \u201cMedium.\u201d It may take some trial and error to find a setting that\u2019s just right."},"elements":[],"widgetType":"image"},{"id":"6402","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Setting the temperature","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"9e1","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"The temperature of many hot-water heaters can be lowered without any noticeable reduction in the hot-water supply. Lowering the temperature of stored hot water saves energy by reducing conductive heat loss through the tank surfaces, called standby loss. Standby losses depend on the location of the tank (how cold it is outside the tank), how well the tank is insulated, and where the tank is located (in a cold climate, most losses in the winter just contribute to heating the house). The better insulated the tank and the greater your hot-water use, the less savings a temperature setback will provide.\n\nReducing the temperature setting by 10\u00b0F may save 2 percent to 5 percent of your water heating costs. The investment is $0, and it\u2019s easy to readjust if you turn it down too much. In addition to energy savings, a lower tank temperature reduces scaling and corrosion and increases the life of the tank. The thermostat knob on a gas water heater is usually located at the front of the gas valve. Look carefully at the markings; on many gas water heaters, counterclockwise rotation increases the temperature setting. Electric tanks have two thermostats\u2014one for each element\u2014located behind metal covers near the bottom and the top of the tank. Because there is exposed wiring inside, shut off the circuit breaker before unscrewing the covers. Set both elements to about the same temperature, or set the top element just slightly cooler so the bottom element activates first.\n\nHot water stored below 120\u00b0F may increase the risk of Legionella pneumophili bacteria, which can cause pneumonia. But Legionella infections in single-family homes are quite rare compared to the risk of scalding, which increases rapidly at tank temperatures over 120\u00b0F. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission recommends all home water heaters be set at 120\u00b0F, and even at that temperature third degree burns can occur with exposures of five minutes or more. Antiscald mixing valves can help keep children and elders, who are at higher risk for burns, safe.\n","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"7a0","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Insulating hot-water pipes","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"7fd6","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"Hot-water pipes lose energy in two ways: through conductive losses in pipe walls while hot water is running and through thermosiphon effects.  Pipe insulation is readily available at most home centers and hardware stores and is easy to install. The biggest benefit from pipe insulation occurs within the first 10 ft. of the tank. Be sure to use the right diameter of insulation; most homes have a mixture of 1\u20442-in. and 3\u20444-in. pipes, so it\u2019s a good idea to measure how much of each you will need.","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"5d4c","elType":"widget","settings":{"image":{"url":"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Hot-Water_Heaters_Pic2.png","id":2064},"image_size":"custom","align":"center","image_custom_dimension":{"width":"700","height":""},"caption":"The most common pipe insulation is made from polyethylene and is widely available at hardware stores and home centers."},"elements":[],"widgetType":"image"},{"id":"42cd","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Maintenance\n","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"390","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"There are two basic maintenance operations that can increase a tank\u2019s lifespan. One is to regularly flush out debris and scale, which can also improve the efficiency of your tank by improving heat transfer. Annually flushing water through the drain valve at the bottom can help wash away the crud. Don\u2019t try to drain the tank; the force of the cold-water pressure helps stir up the material. But you might want to shut off the heater overnight before doing this, to avoid wasting gallons of hot water. Unfortunately, most drain valves that are installed at the factory don\u2019t allow much sediment to pass through, so it\u2019s better to replace it with a full-flow ball valve. Flushing is also more effective if the tank has a dip tube with a curve at the bottom that swirls incoming water around the base of the tank.\n\nThe other thing that can be done to extend the life of a water heater is to replace the anode rod periodically. The anode rod, typically made of magnesium formed around steel wire, is designed to corrode before the steel tank does. Once the magnesium material has decomposed or is covered with scale, the anode stops working and the tank will start to deteriorate. Anode rods are designed to last for about 5 years, depending, of course, on the water: typically, just a little longer than the tank\u2019s warranty. You will probably need a heavy-duty socket wrench with a breaker bar to unthread the anode rod. Don\u2019t try to remove it until you have a new replacement rod handy. And be very careful not to damage the tank or the water fittings when removing the rod. Replacement anode rods are available at plumbing supply houses for $20 to $40. Of course, you will need to shut off the tank and the incoming water supply, and partially empty the tank before replacing an anode rod.\n","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"3f01","elType":"widget","settings":[],"elements":[],"widgetType":"spacer"}],"isInner":false}],"isInner":false},{"id":"42d8","elType":"section","settings":[],"elements":[{"id":"7fd4","elType":"column","settings":{"_column_size":100,"_inline_size":null},"elements":[{"id":"5194","elType":"widget","settings":{"color":"#7a7a7a"},"elements":[],"widgetType":"divider"},{"id":"3238","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Replacing Hot-Water Systems","header_size":"h1","title_color":"#217094","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":24},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":34},"_element_id":"anchor03"},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"4e42","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"When it is time to buy a new hot-water heater, it makes sense to install the most efficient replacement system possible. But choosing a water heater can be confusing; there are many different styles of high-efficiency units with competing claims of superiority. Which type will work best for you depends on the type of hot water and heating systems already in your house. If you have a furnace, then you will need some type of independent, stand-alone water heater. If you have a hot-water boiler, it usually makes sense to use it for water heating, especially if the boiler is a newer, efficient model. Stand-alone, standard LP-gas, or oil-fired water heaters are the most expensive to operate; if you have one of these, or if you heat your house with electric resistance or a heat pump, you might benefit from either a super-high-efficiency condensing water heater, a heat pump water heater (HPWH; or a solar water-heating system).\n","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"3f72","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Water-heater efficiency","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"5e68","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"There are three basic types of replacement water heaters that work on their own (without a boiler): storage tanks, on-demand units (sometimes called tankless water heaters), and heat pump water heaters. Any of these types except the heat pump are available in either gas or electric models. Most have high-efficiency versions, and all have pros and cons. Every new water heater has an efficiency rating (called an energy\nfactor, or EF) listed with AHRI. Today\u2019s water heaters have EFs that range from about 0.50 to 0.97 (except for heat pumps); try to get a water heater with the highest EF rating for the type of application you need.\n","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"488b","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Tank-type water heaters","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"3d37","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"Most standard gas water heaters have EF ratings in the high 50s\u2014that means over 40 percent of the energy is wasted. Until recently, the highest efficiency tank-type units you could buy were in the low 60s; most had efficient burners, electronic pilots, and high insulation levels. There is a new generation of high-efficiency tank-type water heaters emerging that have higher energy factors. For example, the KenmoreR Elite uses a special air intake and other features to achieve an EF of 0.7. Both the Kenmore and the RheemR Fury (0.67 EF) use electronic vent dampers. Although not the highest efficiency available, these products provide a sizable performance boost at a modest price increase over a standard gas water heater.\n\nThe most efficient units on the market are condensing gas water heaters; they typically have EF ratings of 0.90 or higher. The best ones have stainless-steel tanks and high firing rates\u2014typically around 90,000 to 120,000 Btu per hour, two to three times that of a typical tank. Because of their high cost\u2014roughly $1,500 to $2,500\u2014condensing water heaters may be more appropriate for supplying whole-house heating as well as hot water. Their high heat output makes them well suited for supplying a hydro-air system. A hydro-air handler used in conjunction with a condensing gas water heater is probably one of the most efficient replacements for an old, inefficient gas furnace and a standard electric or gas water-heating tank, especially if you have piped natural gas and live in a cold or mixed climate. Standard electric tank-type water heaters appear to be more efficient than gas units, with EFs ranging from about 0.86 to 0.95. \n","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"22a3","elType":"widget","settings":{"image":{"url":"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Hot-Water_Heaters_Pic3.png","id":2065},"image_size":"custom","align":"center","image_custom_dimension":{"width":"700","height":""},"caption":"All new water heaters are required to have an Energy Guide label, which compares the energy use of this model to that of similar models. Buyers beware: \u201cEnergy Saver\u201d is a common name found on water heaters, but it can be almost meaningless. Few water heaters have their EF rating listed on the tank, but you can look it up in the AHRI directory online."},"elements":[],"widgetType":"image"},{"id":"2a4a814","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"The energy factor, or EF rating, is based on a standardized test that takes into account burner efficiency, pilot usage, and standby losses for \u201ctypical\u201d hot-water usage. EF ratings for gas, oil, and electric water\nheaters can be found at www.ahridirectory.org under \u201cresidential water heaters.\u201d The directory\nalso shows first-hour ratings and the burner efficiency, which is called \u201crecovery efficiency.\u201d\n","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"317c","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Tankless water heaters","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"d84","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"At the other end of the spectrum is the tankless or on-demand water heater. The premise of a tankless water heater is to save energy by eliminating the storage tank and its associated standby losses, using a large gas burner to heat water only when you need it. (Don\u2019t confuse this with a tankless water-heating coil that\u2019s run from a boiler; these waste far more energy by keeping the boiler hot all year.)\n\nOn-demand water heaters have higher EF ratings than conventional water heaters. Gas on-demand water heaters fall into two groups: those with standard gas burners and EF ratings in the low 80s, and those with condensing burners and EFs in the 90s. Savings will be lower than the EF ratings (and marketing literature) indicate, about $80 to $100 per year (assuming national average of $1.20\/therm). The modest savings make it hard to recoup your investment in a reasonable time: Tankless water heaters cost between $800 and $1,500. Installation cost is also likely to be high; larger gas lines are typically needed, and in many cases new electrical service. Other advantages of tankless water heaters are their small size and their ability to provide hot water continuously, but there are some drawbacks as well. The burner starts when a hot-water tap is opened, by sensing the drop in pressure, so some cold water always flows into the heat exchanger at first. If you use hot water intermittently, or take a shower right after another family member, you may end up with surprise \u201cslug\u201d of cold water each time. The total flow of hot water in GPM is also limited by the burner capacity, so sizing these units is less forgiving than water heaters with some storage. Some tankless units have small storage tanks built in to reduce these troubles, or an external tank can be added.\n\nFinally, on-demand water heaters are sensitive to minerals\u2014if you have hard water, the annual service that\u2019s needed will cut into the savings. I don\u2019t generally recommend on-demand units for most existing-tank replacements, but these heaters can make sense in a major renovation. Electric tankless heaters are also available, but they are not typically suitable for whole-house service\n","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"6e6cbf3","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Indirect-fired tank (with boiler)","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"2144536","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"If you heat your house with a hot-water boiler, an indirect-fired water heater can generate hot water more efficiently than a tankless coil or most stand-alone units. The storage tank contains a thermostat that requests heat from the boiler, just like a separate heating zone. To get the best efficiency from an indirect storage tank, the boiler has to have the right controls: It needs to be set up for \u201ccold start\u201d and should also include a purge cycle. Generally, the control should also include a 30-minute hot-water priority. This ensures that you always have hot water, even on a cold morning when the boiler is needed for space heating.\n\nMany indirect-fired tanks have a built-in heat exchanger. Boiler water is pumped through the heat exchanger, heating water in the tank without mixing boiler water with the potable water supply. Alternatively, almost any type of insulated storage tank can be combined with an external heat exchanger to produce hot water from a boiler. An external heat exchanger requires two circulating pumps, adding a small electrical load. But when the unit is properly sized, the heat transfer is very efficient. All piping between the boiler and the storage tank must be thoroughly insulated to minimize heat loss, including any external heat exchanger (don\u2019t insulate pump bodies). Indirect tanks have AHRI efficiency ratings, but they don\u2019t have EF ratings like other water heaters. This is because any boiler can provide the heat\nsource with a wide range of efficiencies. Indirect tanks are rated for \u201cstandby loss\u201d in a range from 0.4 to over 1.0; try to aim for 0.8 or less. Smaller tanks tend to have higher losses per hour, but they are cheaper and take up less space. Look for the lowest standby loss available with a first-hour rating that suits your needs.\n","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"c0e7171","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Heat pump water heaters","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"371bd92","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"The heat pump water heater is based on a great concept: Use electricity to extract heat from the air and deliver it to the hot water at a higher temperature. The heat extracted from the air is free, and theoretically the net efficiency could be 300 percent or more. Early models had trouble with reliability, service, and price, but a new generation of HPWHs has emerged that seems to offer better efficiency and reliability at a price range of about $1,300 to $2,000. HPWHs have EFs in the range of 2.0 to 2.5, which means that more than half the heat comes from the environment around the heater. There are a number of factors that affect the real installed efficiency. First, controls in most units allow for resistance heat to turn on when demand is high or surrounding air temperatures are low; this can really cut into the overall efficiency, depending on how the control is set and how you use hot water. The most efficient units have smaller electric backup heaters (less than 2,500 watts) and run the heat pump even while the resistance heat is on. Larger tanks also tend to run more efficiently than small tanks. Also, the heat comes from the air around the tank. If you live in a cold climate, that heat may not be free: If the tank is in a conditioned space, you\u2019ve already paid to heat it up. If it\u2019s in an unconditioned basement, the air may get cold and efficiency will suffer. At the same time, air that is exhausted from the heat pump is cool and dry, so running an HPWH in a basement may reduce dehumidification needs. Some units allow for a duct to divert the chilled air output outdoors in cold weather. Of course, in a warm climate a HPWH will help cool your house, saving even more on your electric bills. The bottom line is this: If you are looking to replace an existing electric or LP-gas water heater, consider getting a HPWH if you live in a mixed or hot climate. Average savings should be around $300 per year, so payback on the $1,000 to $1,500 increased cost is fairly reasonable. Savings may be higher where electric rates are higher than average, even in colder climates. Savings will tend to be largest when hot-water use is high.","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"6462","elType":"widget","settings":{"image":{"id":2068,"url":"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Hot_Water_Heater_Pic4.png"},"image_size":"full","caption":"This \u201chybrid\u201d heat pump water heater produces hot water at a savings of about 50 percent when compared to conventional electric water heaters. Alternately, some units are designed as an add-on retrofit to an existing 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