(11916,2051,'_elementor_data','[{\"id\":\"426\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"background_background\":\"gradient\",\"margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":0,\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":0,\"isLinked\":true},\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6297\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5957\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"<p>Air-Conditioning<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"202f\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"50d6\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1c64\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Cooling Basics<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Reducing Loads<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Maintenance And Upgrades<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">New Air-Conditioning Systems<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"44bc\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1f54\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7f8a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7ef8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Air-Sealing Priorities\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5721\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7e7d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities.png\",\"id\":1505},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"14ad\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"110c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"16ab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Seal the high and low leaks\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"c99\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.<\\/p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.<\\/p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab\\u2014the home\\u2019s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2ede\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"417a\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4bd1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Attic Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4181\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>When walking around your house, you\\u2019re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don\\u2019t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don\\u2019t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can\\u2019t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible\\u2014from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that\\u2019s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2b8b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"76cc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><b>Attic Bypasses<\\/b><\\/p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:<\\/p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).<\\/li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.<\\/li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).<\\/li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).<\\/li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.<\\/li><\\/ol>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"78db\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Through-framing into attics\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"769\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks.\\u00a0<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1d03\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5a17\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Recessed lights\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2423\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Recessed \\u201ccan\\u201d light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn\\u2019t get too hot. Also, an older unit can\\u2019t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big \\u201chole\\u201d for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or \\u201cIC.\\u201d The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1152\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Other special situations\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a3f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don\\u2019t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can\\u2019t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<\\/p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It\\u2019s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.<\\/p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<\\/p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"36b9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"66a\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"65ff\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"532c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"207e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4ac7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1263\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement walls\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3099\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill\\/band joist area.<\\/p><p><b>Service penetrations<\\/b>\\u00a0Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).<\\/p><p><b>Stepped foundation<\\/b>\\u00a0walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.<\\/p><p><b>Bulkhead doors\\u00a0<\\/b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.<\\/p><p><b>Sills and band joists<\\/b>\\u00a0The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5d89\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"4bf1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3d3e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1f3b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Safety First\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5549\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas\\u2014 including radon\\u2014that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov\\/radon<\\/u> for more information.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"1c87\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"gap\":\"no\",\"custom_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":800},\"content_position\":\"middle\",\"structure\":\"21\",\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"25\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"20\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"20\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6ba9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":33,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"10\",\"isLinked\":true},\"content_position\":\"top\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2bf4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":1521,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/blower-door-test.jpg\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7554\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":66,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"50\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"d7e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blower-door testing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6f51\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"301e\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7b6a\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"823\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3ae1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it\\u2019s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3661\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Crawlspaces\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6b68\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. 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The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6db2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Slab-on-grade\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7ae3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. 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style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open 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And Upgrades<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">New Air-Conditioning Systems<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"44bc\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1f54\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7f8a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7ef8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Cooling Basics\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5721\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads\\u2014and bills\\u2014benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"14ad\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"110c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"16ab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Where does the heat come from?\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"c99\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it\\u2019s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \\n\\nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it\\u2019s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2ede\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"417a\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4bd1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Attic Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4181\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>When walking around your house, you\\u2019re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don\\u2019t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don\\u2019t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can\\u2019t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible\\u2014from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that\\u2019s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2b8b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"76cc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><b>Attic Bypasses<\\/b><\\/p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:<\\/p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).<\\/li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.<\\/li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).<\\/li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).<\\/li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.<\\/li><\\/ol>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"78db\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Through-framing into attics\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"769\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks.\\u00a0<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1d03\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5a17\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Recessed lights\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2423\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Recessed \\u201ccan\\u201d light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn\\u2019t get too hot. Also, an older unit can\\u2019t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big \\u201chole\\u201d for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or \\u201cIC.\\u201d The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1152\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Other special situations\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a3f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don\\u2019t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can\\u2019t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<\\/p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It\\u2019s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.<\\/p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<\\/p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"36b9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"66a\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"65ff\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"532c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"207e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4ac7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1263\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement walls\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3099\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill\\/band joist area.<\\/p><p><b>Service penetrations<\\/b>\\u00a0Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).<\\/p><p><b>Stepped foundation<\\/b>\\u00a0walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.<\\/p><p><b>Bulkhead doors\\u00a0<\\/b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.<\\/p><p><b>Sills and band joists<\\/b>\\u00a0The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5d89\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"4bf1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3d3e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1f3b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Safety First\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5549\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas\\u2014 including radon\\u2014that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov\\/radon<\\/u> for more information.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"1c87\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"gap\":\"no\",\"custom_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":800},\"content_position\":\"middle\",\"structure\":\"21\",\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"25\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"20\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"20\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6ba9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":33,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"10\",\"isLinked\":true},\"content_position\":\"top\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2bf4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":1521,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/blower-door-test.jpg\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7554\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":66,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"50\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"d7e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blower-door testing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6f51\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"301e\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7b6a\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"823\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3ae1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it\\u2019s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3661\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Crawlspaces\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6b68\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6db2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Slab-on-grade\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7ae3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6e93\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5975\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2b34\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"788\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"4b23\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sidewall Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"637a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6ef2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Service penetrations\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1545\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3586\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Transitions in exterior wall framing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"12c6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. 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style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"202f\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"50d6\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1c64\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Cooling Basics<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Reducing Loads<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Maintenance And Upgrades<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">New Air-Conditioning Systems<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"44bc\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1f54\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7f8a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7ef8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Cooling Basics\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5721\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads\\u2014and bills\\u2014benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"14ad\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"110c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"16ab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Where does the heat come from?\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"c99\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it\\u2019s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \\n\\nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it\\u2019s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"eaea1d5\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4f5bb73\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3141f9a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"How air conditioners work\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b90e1e9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Virtually all residential air-conditioning systems use a compressor-driven refrigerant vapor cycle to cool house air. The compressor cycle controls refrigerant temperatures in the condenser and evaporator coils, which absorb heat from indoor air at a low temperature, then reject it outdoors at a higher temperature. Air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators all use the refrigerant vapor cycle to essentially push heat uphill, from a cooler place to a warmer place. An air conditioner pushes heat from the cool indoors to the hot outdoors, cooling the interior. In addition to sending indoor heat outdoors, an air conditioner must also reject the heat generated by the compressor and fan motors.\\n\\nAnother aspect of air conditioners is their ability to dehumidify, as well as cool, indoor air. This happens when water condenses on the cold fins of the evaporator coil as humid air passes across them. Dehumidification is an important component in maintaining healthy indoor air quality and comfort. Water that is evaporated in air contains quite a bit of heat energy, which must be accounted for in the system\\u2019s design. The energy required to remove excess humidity is called latent load, and it comes from moisture sources within the home and, in humid climates, outdoor air leaking indoors.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2ede\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"417a\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4bd1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Attic Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4181\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>When walking around your house, you\\u2019re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don\\u2019t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don\\u2019t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can\\u2019t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible\\u2014from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that\\u2019s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2b8b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"76cc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><b>Attic Bypasses<\\/b><\\/p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:<\\/p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).<\\/li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.<\\/li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).<\\/li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).<\\/li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.<\\/li><\\/ol>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"78db\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Through-framing into attics\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"769\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks.\\u00a0<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1d03\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5a17\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Recessed lights\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2423\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Recessed \\u201ccan\\u201d light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn\\u2019t get too hot. Also, an older unit can\\u2019t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big \\u201chole\\u201d for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or \\u201cIC.\\u201d The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1152\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Other special situations\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a3f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don\\u2019t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can\\u2019t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<\\/p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It\\u2019s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.<\\/p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<\\/p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"36b9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"66a\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"65ff\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"532c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"207e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4ac7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1263\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement walls\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3099\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill\\/band joist area.<\\/p><p><b>Service penetrations<\\/b>\\u00a0Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).<\\/p><p><b>Stepped foundation<\\/b>\\u00a0walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.<\\/p><p><b>Bulkhead doors\\u00a0<\\/b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.<\\/p><p><b>Sills and band joists<\\/b>\\u00a0The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5d89\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"4bf1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3d3e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1f3b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Safety First\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5549\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas\\u2014 including radon\\u2014that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov\\/radon<\\/u> for more information.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"1c87\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"gap\":\"no\",\"custom_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":800},\"content_position\":\"middle\",\"structure\":\"21\",\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"25\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"20\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"20\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6ba9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":33,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"10\",\"isLinked\":true},\"content_position\":\"top\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2bf4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":1521,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/blower-door-test.jpg\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7554\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":66,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"50\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"d7e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blower-door testing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6f51\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"301e\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7b6a\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"823\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3ae1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it\\u2019s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3661\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Crawlspaces\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6b68\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6db2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Slab-on-grade\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7ae3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6e93\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5975\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2b34\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"788\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"4b23\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sidewall Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"637a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6ef2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Service penetrations\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1545\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3586\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Transitions in exterior wall framing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"12c6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"19ef\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5ce1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5f2a\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6996\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"26f7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"9cd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor05\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"42ad\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don\\u2019t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal 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style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"202f\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"50d6\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1c64\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Cooling Basics<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Reducing Loads<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Maintenance And Upgrades<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">New Air-Conditioning Systems<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"44bc\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1f54\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7f8a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7ef8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Cooling Basics\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5721\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads\\u2014and bills\\u2014benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"14ad\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"110c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"16ab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Where does the heat come from?\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"c99\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it\\u2019s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \\n\\nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it\\u2019s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"eaea1d5\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4f5bb73\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3141f9a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"How air conditioners work\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b90e1e9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Virtually all residential air-conditioning systems use a compressor-driven refrigerant vapor cycle to cool house air. The compressor cycle controls refrigerant temperatures in the condenser and evaporator coils, which absorb heat from indoor air at a low temperature, then reject it outdoors at a higher temperature. Air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators all use the refrigerant vapor cycle to essentially push heat uphill, from a cooler place to a warmer place. An air conditioner pushes heat from the cool indoors to the hot outdoors, cooling the interior. In addition to sending indoor heat outdoors, an air conditioner must also reject the heat generated by the compressor and fan motors.\\n\\nAnother aspect of air conditioners is their ability to dehumidify, as well as cool, indoor air. This happens when water condenses on the cold fins of the evaporator coil as humid air passes across them. Dehumidification is an important component in maintaining healthy indoor air quality and comfort. Water that is evaporated in air contains quite a bit of heat energy, which must be accounted for in the system\\u2019s design. The energy required to remove excess humidity is called latent load, and it comes from moisture sources within the home and, in humid climates, outdoor air leaking indoors.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2ede\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"417a\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4bd1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing Loads\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4181\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"With cooling, just as with heating, as the loads are reduced you spend less to stay comfortable. Think of the air conditioner as removing heat that builds up, rather than \\u201ccooling down\\u201d the house. The better you are at preventing heat from building up, the less heat your air conditioner must remove and the less time it will have to run\\u2014saving you money. There are two approaches to reducing cooling loads: reducing\\nyour need for cooling and reducing heat gains in your house.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"78db\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reduce the need for cooling\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"769\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"One surefire way to cut cooling costs is to use your air conditioner less. A house with more insulation, better windows, and less air leakage is comfortable with no air-conditioning for more of the summer. Setting the thermostat higher, particularly when the house is empty, reduces the system\\u2019s run time and saves energy. \\n\\nFans can also help raise the temperature at which you feel comfortable. By installing an efficient ceiling fan and keeping the air moving in occupied rooms, most people can comfort- ably increase the temperature setting of their thermostat by 4\\u00b0F to 6\\u00b0F, saving 20 percent to 35 percent on their cooling bills. Fan flow\\nshould point downward to maximize the feeling of air movement in the room. Oscillating and box fans can also provide portable comfort. When using any type of indoor fan, remember that it will keep people cool only while they are in the room. Turn off fans when you are not using them, because they generate heat.\\n\\nCeiling-mounted whole-house fans that exhaust into the attic are another popular method to reduce the need for cooling, but they must be used properly to be effective. Air leaks between the attic and house must be sealed, and the attic must be well vented to the exterior, to ensure that the fan exhaust goes outdoors rather than back into the house.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1d03\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5a17\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct insulation and sealing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2423\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Recessed \\u201ccan\\u201d light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn\\u2019t get too hot. Also, an older unit can\\u2019t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big \\u201chole\\u201d for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or \\u201cIC.\\u201d The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1152\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Other special situations\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a3f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don\\u2019t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can\\u2019t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<\\/p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It\\u2019s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.<\\/p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<\\/p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"36b9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"66a\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"65ff\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"532c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"207e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4ac7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1263\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement walls\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3099\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill\\/band joist area.<\\/p><p><b>Service penetrations<\\/b>\\u00a0Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).<\\/p><p><b>Stepped foundation<\\/b>\\u00a0walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.<\\/p><p><b>Bulkhead doors\\u00a0<\\/b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.<\\/p><p><b>Sills and band joists<\\/b>\\u00a0The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5d89\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"4bf1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3d3e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1f3b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Safety First\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5549\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas\\u2014 including radon\\u2014that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov\\/radon<\\/u> for more information.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"1c87\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"gap\":\"no\",\"custom_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":800},\"content_position\":\"middle\",\"structure\":\"21\",\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"25\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"20\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"20\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6ba9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":33,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"10\",\"isLinked\":true},\"content_position\":\"top\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2bf4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":1521,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/blower-door-test.jpg\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7554\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":66,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"50\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"d7e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blower-door testing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6f51\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"301e\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7b6a\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"823\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3ae1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it\\u2019s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3661\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Crawlspaces\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6b68\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6db2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Slab-on-grade\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7ae3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6e93\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5975\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2b34\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"788\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"4b23\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sidewall Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"637a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6ef2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Service penetrations\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1545\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3586\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Transitions in exterior wall framing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"12c6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. 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style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"202f\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"50d6\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1c64\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Cooling Basics<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Reducing Loads<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Maintenance And Upgrades<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">New Air-Conditioning Systems<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"44bc\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1f54\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"d8c4e61\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7ef8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Cooling Basics\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5721\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads\\u2014and bills\\u2014benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"14ad\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"110c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"16ab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Where does the heat come from?\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"c99\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it\\u2019s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \\n\\nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it\\u2019s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"eaea1d5\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4f5bb73\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3141f9a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"How air conditioners work\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b90e1e9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Virtually all residential air-conditioning systems use a compressor-driven refrigerant vapor cycle to cool house air. The compressor cycle controls refrigerant temperatures in the condenser and evaporator coils, which absorb heat from indoor air at a low temperature, then reject it outdoors at a higher temperature. Air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators all use the refrigerant vapor cycle to essentially push heat uphill, from a cooler place to a warmer place. An air conditioner pushes heat from the cool indoors to the hot outdoors, cooling the interior. In addition to sending indoor heat outdoors, an air conditioner must also reject the heat generated by the compressor and fan motors.\\n\\nAnother aspect of air conditioners is their ability to dehumidify, as well as cool, indoor air. This happens when water condenses on the cold fins of the evaporator coil as humid air passes across them. Dehumidification is an important component in maintaining healthy indoor air quality and comfort. Water that is evaporated in air contains quite a bit of heat energy, which must be accounted for in the system\\u2019s design. The energy required to remove excess humidity is called latent load, and it comes from moisture sources within the home and, in humid climates, outdoor air leaking indoors.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2ede\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"417a\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7f8a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"4bd1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing Loads\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4181\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"With cooling, just as with heating, as the loads are reduced you spend less to stay comfortable. Think of the air conditioner as removing heat that builds up, rather than \\u201ccooling down\\u201d the house. The better you are at preventing heat from building up, the less heat your air conditioner must remove and the less time it will have to run\\u2014saving you money. There are two approaches to reducing cooling loads: reducing\\nyour need for cooling and reducing heat gains in your house.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"78db\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reduce the need for cooling\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"769\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"One surefire way to cut cooling costs is to use your air conditioner less. A house with more insulation, better windows, and less air leakage is comfortable with no air-conditioning for more of the summer. Setting the thermostat higher, particularly when the house is empty, reduces the system\\u2019s run time and saves energy. \\n\\nFans can also help raise the temperature at which you feel comfortable. By installing an efficient ceiling fan and keeping the air moving in occupied rooms, most people can comfort- ably increase the temperature setting of their thermostat by 4\\u00b0F to 6\\u00b0F, saving 20 percent to 35 percent on their cooling bills. Fan flow\\nshould point downward to maximize the feeling of air movement in the room. Oscillating and box fans can also provide portable comfort. When using any type of indoor fan, remember that it will keep people cool only while they are in the room. Turn off fans when you are not using them, because they generate heat.\\n\\nCeiling-mounted whole-house fans that exhaust into the attic are another popular method to reduce the need for cooling, but they must be used properly to be effective. Air leaks between the attic and house must be sealed, and the attic must be well vented to the exterior, to ensure that the fan exhaust goes outdoors rather than back into the house.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1d03\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5a17\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct insulation and sealing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2423\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Air-conditioning ducts have the same leakage and insulation issues as those of heating ducts. In fact, leaks and missing insulation in attic ductwork hurt air-conditioning systems more than heating systems, because during peak cooling times attics are usually much hotter than outdoor ambient temperatures. All air conditioning ducts in attics, crawlspaces, and garages should be thoroughly sealed and insulated\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1152\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Other special situations\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a3f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don\\u2019t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can\\u2019t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<\\/p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It\\u2019s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.<\\/p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<\\/p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"36b9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"66a\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"65ff\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"532c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"207e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4ac7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1263\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement walls\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3099\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill\\/band joist area.<\\/p><p><b>Service penetrations<\\/b>\\u00a0Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).<\\/p><p><b>Stepped foundation<\\/b>\\u00a0walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.<\\/p><p><b>Bulkhead doors\\u00a0<\\/b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.<\\/p><p><b>Sills and band joists<\\/b>\\u00a0The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5d89\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"4bf1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3d3e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1f3b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Safety First\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5549\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas\\u2014 including radon\\u2014that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov\\/radon<\\/u> for more information.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"1c87\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"gap\":\"no\",\"custom_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":800},\"content_position\":\"middle\",\"structure\":\"21\",\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"25\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"20\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"20\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6ba9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":33,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"10\",\"isLinked\":true},\"content_position\":\"top\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2bf4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":1521,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/blower-door-test.jpg\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7554\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":66,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"50\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"d7e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blower-door testing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6f51\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"301e\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7b6a\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"823\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3ae1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it\\u2019s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3661\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Crawlspaces\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6b68\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6db2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Slab-on-grade\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7ae3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6e93\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5975\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2b34\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"788\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"4b23\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sidewall Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"637a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6ef2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Service penetrations\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1545\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. 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style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"202f\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"50d6\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1c64\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Cooling Basics<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Reducing Loads<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Maintenance And Upgrades<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">New Air-Conditioning Systems<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"44bc\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1f54\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"d8c4e61\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7ef8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Cooling Basics\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5721\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads\\u2014and bills\\u2014benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"14ad\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"110c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"16ab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Where does the heat come from?\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"c99\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it\\u2019s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \\n\\nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it\\u2019s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"eaea1d5\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4f5bb73\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3141f9a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"How air conditioners work\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b90e1e9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Virtually all residential air-conditioning systems use a compressor-driven refrigerant vapor cycle to cool house air. The compressor cycle controls refrigerant temperatures in the condenser and evaporator coils, which absorb heat from indoor air at a low temperature, then reject it outdoors at a higher temperature. Air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators all use the refrigerant vapor cycle to essentially push heat uphill, from a cooler place to a warmer place. An air conditioner pushes heat from the cool indoors to the hot outdoors, cooling the interior. In addition to sending indoor heat outdoors, an air conditioner must also reject the heat generated by the compressor and fan motors.\\n\\nAnother aspect of air conditioners is their ability to dehumidify, as well as cool, indoor air. This happens when water condenses on the cold fins of the evaporator coil as humid air passes across them. Dehumidification is an important component in maintaining healthy indoor air quality and comfort. Water that is evaporated in air contains quite a bit of heat energy, which must be accounted for in the system\\u2019s design. The energy required to remove excess humidity is called latent load, and it comes from moisture sources within the home and, in humid climates, outdoor air leaking indoors.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2ede\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"417a\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7f8a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"4bd1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing Loads\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4181\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"With cooling, just as with heating, as the loads are reduced you spend less to stay comfortable. Think of the air conditioner as removing heat that builds up, rather than \\u201ccooling down\\u201d the house. The better you are at preventing heat from building up, the less heat your air conditioner must remove and the less time it will have to run\\u2014saving you money. There are two approaches to reducing cooling loads: reducing\\nyour need for cooling and reducing heat gains in your house.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"78db\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reduce the need for cooling\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"769\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"One surefire way to cut cooling costs is to use your air conditioner less. A house with more insulation, better windows, and less air leakage is comfortable with no air-conditioning for more of the summer. Setting the thermostat higher, particularly when the house is empty, reduces the system\\u2019s run time and saves energy. \\n\\nFans can also help raise the temperature at which you feel comfortable. By installing an efficient ceiling fan and keeping the air moving in occupied rooms, most people can comfort- ably increase the temperature setting of their thermostat by 4\\u00b0F to 6\\u00b0F, saving 20 percent to 35 percent on their cooling bills. Fan flow\\nshould point downward to maximize the feeling of air movement in the room. Oscillating and box fans can also provide portable comfort. When using any type of indoor fan, remember that it will keep people cool only while they are in the room. Turn off fans when you are not using them, because they generate heat.\\n\\nCeiling-mounted whole-house fans that exhaust into the attic are another popular method to reduce the need for cooling, but they must be used properly to be effective. Air leaks between the attic and house must be sealed, and the attic must be well vented to the exterior, to ensure that the fan exhaust goes outdoors rather than back into the house.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1d03\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5a17\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct insulation and sealing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2423\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Air-conditioning ducts have the same leakage and insulation issues as those of heating ducts. In fact, leaks and missing insulation in attic ductwork hurt air-conditioning systems more than heating systems, because during peak cooling times attics are usually much hotter than outdoor ambient temperatures. All air conditioning ducts in attics, crawlspaces, and garages should be thoroughly sealed and insulated\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"36b9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"66a\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"65ff\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"532c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"207e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Maintenance and Upgrades\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4ac7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Like most other equipment, air conditioners need regular maintenance and service. Some things you can probably do yourself, whereas others require a professional technician.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1263\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3099\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Like heat pumps and furnaces, air-conditioning systems depend on adequate airflow to remove heat efficiently from your house. Whether you have a central air conditioner or individual room units, check the filters regularly and clean or replace them when they are dirty\\u2014 once or twice a season should be adequate. Because airflow is important, do not shut off any of the supply registers in the system\\u2014\\nespecially if the ducts are located in an attic, garage, or crawlspace.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4bf1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Cleaning air coils\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3d3e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"When filters don\\u2019t work properly or air gets around them, the evaporator coil can become clogged with dirt and dust. Depending on the system, you may need a service technician to access the coil. If you can reach it yourself, lift the dirt from behind with a stiff brush. Be careful not to drive dirt further in or bend the fins. The outdoor condenser coil should also be kept clean and free of dirt and debris. Don\\u2019t spray water directly at the coil, which may drive dirt deeper into the space between the fins. Instead, using a long-bristle brush with flexible bristles, carefully insert the bristles between the fins, and lift the dirt from behind. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1f3b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Regular service\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5549\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Regular service calls\\u2014typically every two to three years\\u2014should include testing the controls, checking and cleaning the blower, condenser, and evaporator coils as needed, checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines, and checking the condensate drain. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing any airflow problems, and then carefully measuring and correcting the refrigerant charge. Like a heat pump, once that has been done, service technicians should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless there is evidence that something is wrong. Like a heat pump, an over- or undercharged air conditioner is less efficient (particularly older models), and systems are often improperly charged. Airflow must be in the recommended range of 400 CFM to 425 CFM per ton before the refrigerant charge can be measured. \\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2bf4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":\"\",\"url\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"d1fe686\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5975\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2b34\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"788\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"4b23\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"New Air-Conditioning Systems\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"637a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you live in a hot climate and have central air conditioning that is 20 years old or more, replacing your system with a new, energy-efficient model should pay for itself in a reasonable time. High-efficiency systems on the market today are more than twice as efficient as systems from the 1980s. But before running out and replacing your system, you will first need to do two other things: Finish any upgrades on the building enclosure, and become familiar with air conditioning products and installation criteria. Of course, if you have a fairly new system (less than 10 years old), it is probably more cost effective to maintain it and keep it running as efficiently as possible until it wears out. As always, energy-efficient upgrades always cost the least when you are fixing or replacing something anyway. If your old air conditioner is on its last legs or not operating, replace it with the most efficient unit you can find.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6ef2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"High-efficiency air-conditioning\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1545\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"New central air conditioners are rated for energy performance with a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER). SEER ratings are measurements under standardized test conditions of Btu per hour of cooling output, divided by input watts. The higher the SEER, the more efficient the system. New central air conditioners are required to have a SEER rating of at least 13; the most efficient units have SEER ratings from 16 to 23. Some of the best high efficiency systems have two-speed compressors; the lower speed provides better, more efficient cooling and dehumidification under mild, part load conditions. When you are replacing a central air conditioning unit with a more efficient one, it\\u2019s very important to match the new outdoor unit and the indoor evaporator coil. You may be able to save some money on the installation by keeping your old coil but be careful: you\\u2019re unlikely to get the full efficiency ratings of the new unit. If you get a proposal to replace only the outdoor unit, the contractor should be able to demonstrate that the existing indoor coil is listed for use with the new outdoor unit; don\\u2019t accept \\u201cdon\\u2019t worry, it\\u2019s fine the way it is\\u201d as an answer.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3586\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sizing a system\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"12c6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Proper sizing has been emphasized as a key efficiency issue for years in the energy-efficiency world, but there\\u2019s little evidence that it affects operating costs very much. Duct leakage and insulation in unconditioned spaces are far more important, especially with modern, high efficiency equipment. \\n\\nOversized air conditioners do cost more to buy and maintain and require more airflow and larger ductwork. Dehumidification, which depends on air flowing through the evaporator coil for enough time to extract condensed moisture, is one important reason to carefully size an air conditioning system in humid climates. When an oversized system runs for only a few minutes, the moisture may just start to collect on the coils before the thermostat is satisfied. Once the unit shuts down, the moisture re-evaporates into the house. An air conditioner that is too large by 50 percent to 100 percent will be unable to control humidity effectively, so people may tend to set the thermostat lower to compensate. Many new, efficient air conditioners have multiple speeds or special dehumidification modes that can effectively compensate for oversizing; if you are in a humid climate, consider one of these features, or get a stand-alone dehumidifier.\\n\\nCorrect load calculations are based on your home\\u2019s window size, the glass type, and the size and R-values of the walls and roof. The proper size also varies with the direction the home faces: Sometimes a 90-degree rotation can cut the cooling load in half. If a contractor gives you a price for an air conditioner on the phone, or simply offers to replace the existing unit with a new one of the same size, get a bid from someone else, especially if you have already made energy improvements in your house. The money\\nyou save by buying a smaller unit may pay for an efficiency upgrade.\\n\\nWhen installing a new air conditioner, shop for value, not just for price. Other things to look for when assessing bids on new air-conditioning equipment include the warranties (from both the manufacturer and the installer), service contracts, longevity of the business, customer references, and technician knowledge. Try to find a contractor who is an Energy Star partner and\\/or NATE certified, or regularly attends manufacturer\\u2019s trainings.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"19ef\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"830f179\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ductless mini-split air conditioners are a great alternative to window units. They are more efficient and quieter, and they don\\u2019t use up a window (or allow air leakage). The most efficient units on the market are\\nalso heat pumps that can save money on your heating bills, too. A mini-split costs about 10 times as much as a decent window unit, but may cost a third to a half as much as retrofitting central air into an existing 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Systems<\\/a>\\n\\n\\n\\n\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5349\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"65dc\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3798\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"129c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Maintenance and Efficiency 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These are independent hot-water storage tanks with their own heat source, with the sole function of providing domestic hot water. A home that is heated by a boiler is likely to have a tankless coil or an indirect-fired storage tank. Standard gas water heaters are cheap and inefficient. They are typically expected to last only 5 to 15 years, so most people do not invest much money in them. Replacing a water heater tends to be an emergency event, full of stress because the old water heater has suddenly failed. Proper maintenance can extend the life of a water heater, and some efficiency improvements can be made to existing tanks with minimal investment; but if you have a standard water heater made before 2005, it may make more sense to upgrade to a very high-efficiency unit and not try to make the old one last longer. If your present water heater appears to be near the end of its useful life, now is the time to do research on the right type of replacement unit. 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Gas water heaters, fired with piped natural or LP gas, are the most common. Gas water heaters are usually smaller than electric water heaters, because their burners produce more heat than an electric heating element. A capacity of 40 to 50 gal. is typical for most houses.\\n\\nElectric water heaters in single-family homes often hold 50 to 80 gal. Electric water heaters don\\u2019t require a fuel supply in the house, so they are a common choice for homes where piped natural gas is unavailable and where a heat pump provides the space heating.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4221\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"36c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"183d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Hot-Water_heaters_Pic1.png\",\"id\":2061},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true},\"caption\":\"Typically, gas water heaters don\\u2019t have degree markings, but the recommended target temperature of 120\\u00b0F is usually between \\u201cWarm\\u201d and \\u201cMedium.\\u201d It may take some trial and error to find a setting that\\u2019s just right.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"7f93\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"2025\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><b>Attic Bypasses<\\/b><\\/p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:<\\/p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).<\\/li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.<\\/li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).<\\/li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).<\\/li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. 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Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn\\u2019t get too hot. Also, an older unit can\\u2019t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big \\u201chole\\u201d for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or \\u201cIC.\\u201d The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"42cd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Other special situations\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"390\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don\\u2019t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can\\u2019t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<\\/p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It\\u2019s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.<\\/p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<\\/p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3f01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"42d8\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7fd4\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5194\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"3238\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4e42\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3f72\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement walls\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5e68\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill\\/band joist area.<\\/p><p><b>Service penetrations<\\/b>\\u00a0Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).<\\/p><p><b>Stepped foundation<\\/b>\\u00a0walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.<\\/p><p><b>Bulkhead doors\\u00a0<\\/b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.<\\/p><p><b>Sills and band joists<\\/b>\\u00a0The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"22a3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"488b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3d37\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"317c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Safety First\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"d84\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas\\u2014 including radon\\u2014that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov\\/radon<\\/u> for more information.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"b8f\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"gap\":\"no\",\"custom_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":800},\"content_position\":\"middle\",\"structure\":\"21\",\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"25\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"20\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"20\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"56b2\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":33,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"10\",\"isLinked\":true},\"content_position\":\"top\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6462\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":1521,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/blower-door-test.jpg\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"11d5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":66,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"50\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"76e7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blower-door testing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7d08\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4e0c\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5905\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2cf0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3855\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it\\u2019s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"35fb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Crawlspaces\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5239\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1fde\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Slab-on-grade\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"69fd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"63e7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"73d4\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"45fc\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3b04\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7462\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sidewall Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5a29\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7b21\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Service penetrations\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4983\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"11eb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Transitions in exterior wall framing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7b8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. 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Systems<\\/a>\\n\\n\\n\\n\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5349\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"65dc\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3798\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"129c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Maintenance and Efficiency Upgrades\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"384a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The vast majority of homes in the United States have stand-alone water heaters. These are independent hot-water storage tanks with their own heat source, with the sole function of providing domestic hot water. A home that is heated by a boiler is likely to have a tankless coil or an indirect-fired storage tank. Standard gas water heaters are cheap and inefficient. They are typically expected to last only 5 to 15 years, so most people do not invest much money in them. Replacing a water heater tends to be an emergency event, full of stress because the old water heater has suddenly failed. Proper maintenance can extend the life of a water heater, and some efficiency improvements can be made to existing tanks with minimal investment; but if you have a standard water heater made before 2005, it may make more sense to upgrade to a very high-efficiency unit and not try to make the old one last longer. If your present water heater appears to be near the end of its useful life, now is the time to do research on the right type of replacement unit. Then you will be well prepared, whether you decide to wait until the old one goes or to replace the tank at your convenience.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3bd8\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4fc6\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6c17\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Two types of tanks: Gas and electric\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1298\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Stand-alone water heaters come in two basic types: gas and electric. Gas water heaters, fired with piped natural or LP gas, are the most common. Gas water heaters are usually smaller than electric water heaters, because their burners produce more heat than an electric heating element. A capacity of 40 to 50 gal. is typical for most houses.\\n\\nElectric water heaters in single-family homes often hold 50 to 80 gal. Electric water heaters don\\u2019t require a fuel supply in the house, so they are a common choice for homes where piped natural gas is unavailable and where a heat pump provides the space heating.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4221\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"36c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"183d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Hot-Water_heaters_Pic1.png\",\"id\":2061},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true},\"caption\":\"Typically, gas water heaters don\\u2019t have degree markings, but the recommended target temperature of 120\\u00b0F is usually between \\u201cWarm\\u201d and \\u201cMedium.\\u201d It may take some trial and error to find a setting that\\u2019s just right.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"6402\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Setting the temperature\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9e1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The temperature of many hot-water heaters can be lowered without any noticeable reduction in the hot-water supply. Lowering the temperature of stored hot water saves energy by reducing conductive heat loss through the tank surfaces, called standby loss. Standby losses depend on the location of the tank (how cold it is outside the tank), how well the tank is insulated, and where the tank is located (in a cold climate, most losses in the winter just contribute to heating the house). The better insulated the tank and the greater your hot-water use, the less savings a temperature setback will provide.\\n\\nReducing the temperature setting by 10\\u00b0F may save 2 percent to 5 percent of your water heating costs. The investment is $0, and it\\u2019s easy to readjust if you turn it down too much. In addition to energy savings, a lower tank temperature reduces scaling and corrosion and increases the life of the tank. The thermostat knob on a gas water heater is usually located at the front of the gas valve. Look carefully at the markings; on many gas water heaters, counterclockwise rotation increases the temperature setting. Electric tanks have two thermostats\\u2014one for each element\\u2014located behind metal covers near the bottom and the top of the tank. Because there is exposed wiring inside, shut off the circuit breaker before unscrewing the covers. Set both elements to about the same temperature, or set the top element just slightly cooler so the bottom element activates first.\\n\\nHot water stored below 120\\u00b0F may increase the risk of Legionella pneumophili bacteria, which can cause pneumonia. But Legionella infections in single-family homes are quite rare compared to the risk of scalding, which increases rapidly at tank temperatures over 120\\u00b0F. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission recommends all home water heaters be set at 120\\u00b0F, and even at that temperature third degree burns can occur with exposures of five minutes or more. Antiscald mixing valves can help keep children and elders, who are at higher risk for burns, safe.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7a0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Insulating hot-water pipes\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7fd6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Hot-water pipes lose energy in two ways: through conductive losses in pipe walls while hot water is running and through thermosiphon effects.  Pipe insulation is readily available at most home centers and hardware stores and is easy to install. The biggest benefit from pipe insulation occurs within the first 10 ft. of the tank. Be sure to use the right diameter of insulation; most homes have a mixture of 1\\u20442-in. and 3\\u20444-in. pipes, so it\\u2019s a good idea to measure how much of each you will need.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5d4c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Hot-Water_Heaters_Pic2.png\",\"id\":2064},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"The most common pipe insulation is made from polyethylene and is widely available at hardware stores and home centers.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"42cd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Maintenance\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"390\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"There are two basic maintenance operations that can increase a tank\\u2019s lifespan. One is to regularly flush out debris and scale, which can also improve the efficiency of your tank by improving heat transfer. Annually flushing water through the drain valve at the bottom can help wash away the crud. Don\\u2019t try to drain the tank; the force of the cold-water pressure helps stir up the material. But you might want to shut off the heater overnight before doing this, to avoid wasting gallons of hot water. Unfortunately, most drain valves that are installed at the factory don\\u2019t allow much sediment to pass through, so it\\u2019s better to replace it with a full-flow ball valve. Flushing is also more effective if the tank has a dip tube with a curve at the bottom that swirls incoming water around the base of the tank.\\n\\nThe other thing that can be done to extend the life of a water heater is to replace the anode rod periodically. The anode rod, typically made of magnesium formed around steel wire, is designed to corrode before the steel tank does. Once the magnesium material has decomposed or is covered with scale, the anode stops working and the tank will start to deteriorate. Anode rods are designed to last for about 5 years, depending, of course, on the water: typically, just a little longer than the tank\\u2019s warranty. You will probably need a heavy-duty socket wrench with a breaker bar to unthread the anode rod. Don\\u2019t try to remove it until you have a new replacement rod handy. And be very careful not to damage the tank or the water fittings when removing the rod. Replacement anode rods are available at plumbing supply houses for $20 to $40. Of course, you will need to shut off the tank and the incoming water supply, and partially empty the tank before replacing an anode rod.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3f01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"42d8\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7fd4\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5194\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"3238\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Replacing Hot-Water Systems\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4e42\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"When it is time to buy a new hot-water heater, it makes sense to install the most efficient replacement system possible. But choosing a water heater can be confusing; there are many different styles of high-efficiency units with competing claims of superiority. Which type will work best for you depends on the type of hot water and heating systems already in your house. If you have a furnace, then you will need some type of independent, stand-alone water heater. If you have a hot-water boiler, it usually makes sense to use it for water heating, especially if the boiler is a newer, efficient model. Stand-alone, standard LP-gas, or oil-fired water heaters are the most expensive to operate; if you have one of these, or if you heat your house with electric resistance or a heat pump, you might benefit from either a super-high-efficiency condensing water heater, a heat pump water heater (HPWH; or a solar water-heating system).\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3f72\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Water-heater efficiency\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5e68\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"There are three basic types of replacement water heaters that work on their own (without a boiler): storage tanks, on-demand units (sometimes called tankless water heaters), and heat pump water heaters. Any of these types except the heat pump are available in either gas or electric models. Most have high-efficiency versions, and all have pros and cons. Every new water heater has an efficiency rating (called an energy\\nfactor, or EF) listed with AHRI. Today\\u2019s water heaters have EFs that range from about 0.50 to 0.97 (except for heat pumps); try to get a water heater with the highest EF rating for the type of application you need.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"488b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Tank-type water heaters\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3d37\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Most standard gas water heaters have EF ratings in the high 50s\\u2014that means over 40 percent of the energy is wasted. Until recently, the highest efficiency tank-type units you could buy were in the low 60s; most had efficient burners, electronic pilots, and high insulation levels. There is a new generation of high-efficiency tank-type water heaters emerging that have higher energy factors. For example, the KenmoreR Elite uses a special air intake and other features to achieve an EF of 0.7. Both the Kenmore and the RheemR Fury (0.67 EF) use electronic vent dampers. Although not the highest efficiency available, these products provide a sizable performance boost at a modest price increase over a standard gas water heater.\\n\\nThe most efficient units on the market are condensing gas water heaters; they typically have EF ratings of 0.90 or higher. The best ones have stainless-steel tanks and high firing rates\\u2014typically around 90,000 to 120,000 Btu per hour, two to three times that of a typical tank. Because of their high cost\\u2014roughly $1,500 to $2,500\\u2014condensing water heaters may be more appropriate for supplying whole-house heating as well as hot water. Their high heat output makes them well suited for supplying a hydro-air system. A hydro-air handler used in conjunction with a condensing gas water heater is probably one of the most efficient replacements for an old, inefficient gas furnace and a standard electric or gas water-heating tank, especially if you have piped natural gas and live in a cold or mixed climate. Standard electric tank-type water heaters appear to be more efficient than gas units, with EFs ranging from about 0.86 to 0.95. \\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"22a3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Hot-Water_Heaters_Pic3.png\",\"id\":2065},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"All new water heaters are required to have an Energy Guide label, which compares the energy use of this model to that of similar models. Buyers beware: \\u201cEnergy Saver\\u201d is a common name found on water heaters, but it can be almost meaningless. Few water heaters have their EF rating listed on the tank, but you can look it up in the AHRI directory online.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"2a4a814\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The energy factor, or EF rating, is based on a standardized test that takes into account burner efficiency, pilot usage, and standby losses for \\u201ctypical\\u201d hot-water usage. EF ratings for gas, oil, and electric water\\nheaters can be found at www.ahridirectory.org under \\u201cresidential water heaters.\\u201d The directory\\nalso shows first-hour ratings and the burner efficiency, which is called \\u201crecovery efficiency.\\u201d\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"317c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Tankless water heaters\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"d84\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"At the other end of the spectrum is the tankless or on-demand water heater. The premise of a tankless water heater is to save energy by eliminating the storage tank and its associated standby losses, using a large gas burner to heat water only when you need it. (Don\\u2019t confuse this with a tankless water-heating coil that\\u2019s run from a boiler; these waste far more energy by keeping the boiler hot all year.)\\n\\nOn-demand water heaters have higher EF ratings than conventional water heaters. Gas on-demand water heaters fall into two groups: those with standard gas burners and EF ratings in the low 80s, and those with condensing burners and EFs in the 90s. Savings will be lower than the EF ratings (and marketing literature) indicate, about $80 to $100 per year (assuming national average of $1.20\\/therm). The modest savings make it hard to recoup your investment in a reasonable time: Tankless water heaters cost between $800 and $1,500. Installation cost is also likely to be high; larger gas lines are typically needed, and in many cases new electrical service. Other advantages of tankless water heaters are their small size and their ability to provide hot water continuously, but there are some drawbacks as well. The burner starts when a hot-water tap is opened, by sensing the drop in pressure, so some cold water always flows into the heat exchanger at first. If you use hot water intermittently, or take a shower right after another family member, you may end up with surprise \\u201cslug\\u201d of cold water each time. The total flow of hot water in GPM is also limited by the burner capacity, so sizing these units is less forgiving than water heaters with some storage. Some tankless units have small storage tanks built in to reduce these troubles, or an external tank can be added.\\n\\nFinally, on-demand water heaters are sensitive to minerals\\u2014if you have hard water, the annual service that\\u2019s needed will cut into the savings. I don\\u2019t generally recommend on-demand units for most existing-tank replacements, but these heaters can make sense in a major renovation. Electric tankless heaters are also available, but they are not typically suitable for whole-house service\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"b8f\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"gap\":\"no\",\"custom_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":800},\"content_position\":\"middle\",\"structure\":\"21\",\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"25\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"50\",\"right\":\"20\",\"bottom\":\"50\",\"left\":\"20\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"56b2\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":33,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"10\",\"isLinked\":true},\"content_position\":\"top\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6462\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":1521,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/blower-door-test.jpg\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"11d5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":66,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"50\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"76e7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blower-door testing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7d08\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4e0c\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5905\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2cf0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3855\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it\\u2019s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"35fb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Crawlspaces\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5239\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1fde\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Slab-on-grade\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"69fd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"63e7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"73d4\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"45fc\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3b04\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7462\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sidewall Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5a29\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7b21\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Service penetrations\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4983\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"11eb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Transitions in exterior wall framing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7b8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3c35\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"1443\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"188\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"491f\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"f35\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"448a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor05\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6b8f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don\\u2019t. 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Water Heaters<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3e9\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2a4a\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3c10\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Maintenance and Efficiency Upgrades<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Replacing Hot Water Systems<\\/a>\\n\\n\\n\\n\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5349\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"65dc\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3798\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"129c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Maintenance and Efficiency Upgrades\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"384a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The vast majority of homes in the United States have stand-alone water heaters. These are independent hot-water storage tanks with their own heat source, with the sole function of providing domestic hot water. A home that is heated by a boiler is likely to have a tankless coil or an indirect-fired storage tank. Standard gas water heaters are cheap and inefficient. They are typically expected to last only 5 to 15 years, so most people do not invest much money in them. Replacing a water heater tends to be an emergency event, full of stress because the old water heater has suddenly failed. Proper maintenance can extend the life of a water heater, and some efficiency improvements can be made to existing tanks with minimal investment; but if you have a standard water heater made before 2005, it may make more sense to upgrade to a very high-efficiency unit and not try to make the old one last longer. If your present water heater appears to be near the end of its useful life, now is the time to do research on the right type of replacement unit. Then you will be well prepared, whether you decide to wait until the old one goes or to replace the tank at your convenience.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3bd8\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4fc6\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6c17\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Two types of tanks: Gas and electric\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1298\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Stand-alone water heaters come in two basic types: gas and electric. Gas water heaters, fired with piped natural or LP gas, are the most common. Gas water heaters are usually smaller than electric water heaters, because their burners produce more heat than an electric heating element. A capacity of 40 to 50 gal. is typical for most houses.\\n\\nElectric water heaters in single-family homes often hold 50 to 80 gal. Electric water heaters don\\u2019t require a fuel supply in the house, so they are a common choice for homes where piped natural gas is unavailable and where a heat pump provides the space heating.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4221\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"36c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"183d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Hot-Water_heaters_Pic1.png\",\"id\":2061},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true},\"caption\":\"Typically, gas water heaters don\\u2019t have degree markings, but the recommended target temperature of 120\\u00b0F is usually between \\u201cWarm\\u201d and \\u201cMedium.\\u201d It may take some trial and error to find a setting that\\u2019s just right.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"6402\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Setting the temperature\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9e1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The temperature of many hot-water heaters can be lowered without any noticeable reduction in the hot-water supply. Lowering the temperature of stored hot water saves energy by reducing conductive heat loss through the tank surfaces, called standby loss. Standby losses depend on the location of the tank (how cold it is outside the tank), how well the tank is insulated, and where the tank is located (in a cold climate, most losses in the winter just contribute to heating the house). The better insulated the tank and the greater your hot-water use, the less savings a temperature setback will provide.\\n\\nReducing the temperature setting by 10\\u00b0F may save 2 percent to 5 percent of your water heating costs. The investment is $0, and it\\u2019s easy to readjust if you turn it down too much. In addition to energy savings, a lower tank temperature reduces scaling and corrosion and increases the life of the tank. The thermostat knob on a gas water heater is usually located at the front of the gas valve. Look carefully at the markings; on many gas water heaters, counterclockwise rotation increases the temperature setting. Electric tanks have two thermostats\\u2014one for each element\\u2014located behind metal covers near the bottom and the top of the tank. Because there is exposed wiring inside, shut off the circuit breaker before unscrewing the covers. Set both elements to about the same temperature, or set the top element just slightly cooler so the bottom element activates first.\\n\\nHot water stored below 120\\u00b0F may increase the risk of Legionella pneumophili bacteria, which can cause pneumonia. But Legionella infections in single-family homes are quite rare compared to the risk of scalding, which increases rapidly at tank temperatures over 120\\u00b0F. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission recommends all home water heaters be set at 120\\u00b0F, and even at that temperature third degree burns can occur with exposures of five minutes or more. Antiscald mixing valves can help keep children and elders, who are at higher risk for burns, safe.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7a0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Insulating hot-water pipes\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7fd6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Hot-water pipes lose energy in two ways: through conductive losses in pipe walls while hot water is running and through thermosiphon effects.  Pipe insulation is readily available at most home centers and hardware stores and is easy to install. The biggest benefit from pipe insulation occurs within the first 10 ft. of the tank. Be sure to use the right diameter of insulation; most homes have a mixture of 1\\u20442-in. and 3\\u20444-in. pipes, so it\\u2019s a good idea to measure how much of each you will need.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5d4c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Hot-Water_Heaters_Pic2.png\",\"id\":2064},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"The most common pipe insulation is made from polyethylene and is widely available at hardware stores and home centers.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"42cd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Maintenance\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"390\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"There are two basic maintenance operations that can increase a tank\\u2019s lifespan. One is to regularly flush out debris and scale, which can also improve the efficiency of your tank by improving heat transfer. Annually flushing water through the drain valve at the bottom can help wash away the crud. Don\\u2019t try to drain the tank; the force of the cold-water pressure helps stir up the material. But you might want to shut off the heater overnight before doing this, to avoid wasting gallons of hot water. Unfortunately, most drain valves that are installed at the factory don\\u2019t allow much sediment to pass through, so it\\u2019s better to replace it with a full-flow ball valve. Flushing is also more effective if the tank has a dip tube with a curve at the bottom that swirls incoming water around the base of the tank.\\n\\nThe other thing that can be done to extend the life of a water heater is to replace the anode rod periodically. The anode rod, typically made of magnesium formed around steel wire, is designed to corrode before the steel tank does. Once the magnesium material has decomposed or is covered with scale, the anode stops working and the tank will start to deteriorate. Anode rods are designed to last for about 5 years, depending, of course, on the water: typically, just a little longer than the tank\\u2019s warranty. You will probably need a heavy-duty socket wrench with a breaker bar to unthread the anode rod. Don\\u2019t try to remove it until you have a new replacement rod handy. And be very careful not to damage the tank or the water fittings when removing the rod. Replacement anode rods are available at plumbing supply houses for $20 to $40. Of course, you will need to shut off the tank and the incoming water supply, and partially empty the tank before replacing an anode rod.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3f01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"42d8\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7fd4\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5194\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"3238\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Replacing Hot-Water Systems\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4e42\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"When it is time to buy a new hot-water heater, it makes sense to install the most efficient replacement system possible. But choosing a water heater can be confusing; there are many different styles of high-efficiency units with competing claims of superiority. Which type will work best for you depends on the type of hot water and heating systems already in your house. If you have a furnace, then you will need some type of independent, stand-alone water heater. If you have a hot-water boiler, it usually makes sense to use it for water heating, especially if the boiler is a newer, efficient model. Stand-alone, standard LP-gas, or oil-fired water heaters are the most expensive to operate; if you have one of these, or if you heat your house with electric resistance or a heat pump, you might benefit from either a super-high-efficiency condensing water heater, a heat pump water heater (HPWH; or a solar water-heating system).\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3f72\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Water-heater efficiency\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5e68\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"There are three basic types of replacement water heaters that work on their own (without a boiler): storage tanks, on-demand units (sometimes called tankless water heaters), and heat pump water heaters. Any of these types except the heat pump are available in either gas or electric models. Most have high-efficiency versions, and all have pros and cons. Every new water heater has an efficiency rating (called an energy\\nfactor, or EF) listed with AHRI. Today\\u2019s water heaters have EFs that range from about 0.50 to 0.97 (except for heat pumps); try to get a water heater with the highest EF rating for the type of application you need.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"488b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Tank-type water heaters\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3d37\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Most standard gas water heaters have EF ratings in the high 50s\\u2014that means over 40 percent of the energy is wasted. Until recently, the highest efficiency tank-type units you could buy were in the low 60s; most had efficient burners, electronic pilots, and high insulation levels. There is a new generation of high-efficiency tank-type water heaters emerging that have higher energy factors. For example, the KenmoreR Elite uses a special air intake and other features to achieve an EF of 0.7. Both the Kenmore and the RheemR Fury (0.67 EF) use electronic vent dampers. Although not the highest efficiency available, these products provide a sizable performance boost at a modest price increase over a standard gas water heater.\\n\\nThe most efficient units on the market are condensing gas water heaters; they typically have EF ratings of 0.90 or higher. The best ones have stainless-steel tanks and high firing rates\\u2014typically around 90,000 to 120,000 Btu per hour, two to three times that of a typical tank. Because of their high cost\\u2014roughly $1,500 to $2,500\\u2014condensing water heaters may be more appropriate for supplying whole-house heating as well as hot water. Their high heat output makes them well suited for supplying a hydro-air system. A hydro-air handler used in conjunction with a condensing gas water heater is probably one of the most efficient replacements for an old, inefficient gas furnace and a standard electric or gas water-heating tank, especially if you have piped natural gas and live in a cold or mixed climate. Standard electric tank-type water heaters appear to be more efficient than gas units, with EFs ranging from about 0.86 to 0.95. \\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"22a3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Hot-Water_Heaters_Pic3.png\",\"id\":2065},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"All new water heaters are required to have an Energy Guide label, which compares the energy use of this model to that of similar models. Buyers beware: \\u201cEnergy Saver\\u201d is a common name found on water heaters, but it can be almost meaningless. Few water heaters have their EF rating listed on the tank, but you can look it up in the AHRI directory online.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"2a4a814\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The energy factor, or EF rating, is based on a standardized test that takes into account burner efficiency, pilot usage, and standby losses for \\u201ctypical\\u201d hot-water usage. EF ratings for gas, oil, and electric water\\nheaters can be found at www.ahridirectory.org under \\u201cresidential water heaters.\\u201d The directory\\nalso shows first-hour ratings and the burner efficiency, which is called \\u201crecovery efficiency.\\u201d\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"317c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Tankless water heaters\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"d84\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"At the other end of the spectrum is the tankless or on-demand water heater. The premise of a tankless water heater is to save energy by eliminating the storage tank and its associated standby losses, using a large gas burner to heat water only when you need it. (Don\\u2019t confuse this with a tankless water-heating coil that\\u2019s run from a boiler; these waste far more energy by keeping the boiler hot all year.)\\n\\nOn-demand water heaters have higher EF ratings than conventional water heaters. Gas on-demand water heaters fall into two groups: those with standard gas burners and EF ratings in the low 80s, and those with condensing burners and EFs in the 90s. Savings will be lower than the EF ratings (and marketing literature) indicate, about $80 to $100 per year (assuming national average of $1.20\\/therm). The modest savings make it hard to recoup your investment in a reasonable time: Tankless water heaters cost between $800 and $1,500. Installation cost is also likely to be high; larger gas lines are typically needed, and in many cases new electrical service. Other advantages of tankless water heaters are their small size and their ability to provide hot water continuously, but there are some drawbacks as well. The burner starts when a hot-water tap is opened, by sensing the drop in pressure, so some cold water always flows into the heat exchanger at first. If you use hot water intermittently, or take a shower right after another family member, you may end up with surprise \\u201cslug\\u201d of cold water each time. The total flow of hot water in GPM is also limited by the burner capacity, so sizing these units is less forgiving than water heaters with some storage. Some tankless units have small storage tanks built in to reduce these troubles, or an external tank can be added.\\n\\nFinally, on-demand water heaters are sensitive to minerals\\u2014if you have hard water, the annual service that\\u2019s needed will cut into the savings. I don\\u2019t generally recommend on-demand units for most existing-tank replacements, but these heaters can make sense in a major renovation. Electric tankless heaters are also available, but they are not typically suitable for whole-house service\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6e6cbf3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Indirect-fired tank (with boiler)\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2144536\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you heat your house with a hot-water boiler, an indirect-fired water heater can generate hot water more efficiently than a tankless coil or most stand-alone units. The storage tank contains a thermostat that requests heat from the boiler, just like a separate heating zone. To get the best efficiency from an indirect storage tank, the boiler has to have the right controls: It needs to be set up for \\u201ccold start\\u201d and should also include a purge cycle. Generally, the control should also include a 30-minute hot-water priority. This ensures that you always have hot water, even on a cold morning when the boiler is needed for space heating.\\n\\nMany indirect-fired tanks have a built-in heat exchanger. Boiler water is pumped through the heat exchanger, heating water in the tank without mixing boiler water with the potable water supply. Alternatively, almost any type of insulated storage tank can be combined with an external heat exchanger to produce hot water from a boiler. An external heat exchanger requires two circulating pumps, adding a small electrical load. But when the unit is properly sized, the heat transfer is very efficient. All piping between the boiler and the storage tank must be thoroughly insulated to minimize heat loss, including any external heat exchanger (don\\u2019t insulate pump bodies). Indirect tanks have AHRI efficiency ratings, but they don\\u2019t have EF ratings like other water heaters. This is because any boiler can provide the heat\\nsource with a wide range of efficiencies. Indirect tanks are rated for \\u201cstandby loss\\u201d in a range from 0.4 to over 1.0; try to aim for 0.8 or less. Smaller tanks tend to have higher losses per hour, but they are cheaper and take up less space. Look for the lowest standby loss available with a first-hour rating that suits your needs.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"c0e7171\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat pump water heaters\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"371bd92\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The heat pump water heater is based on a great concept: Use electricity to extract heat from the air and deliver it to the hot water at a higher temperature. The heat extracted from the air is free, and theoretically the net efficiency could be 300 percent or more. Early models had trouble with reliability, service, and price, but a new generation of HPWHs has emerged that seems to offer better efficiency and reliability at a price range of about $1,300 to $2,000. HPWHs have EFs in the range of 2.0 to 2.5, which means that more than half the heat comes from the environment around the heater. There are a number of factors that affect the real installed efficiency. First, controls in most units allow for resistance heat to turn on when demand is high or surrounding air temperatures are low; this can really cut into the overall efficiency, depending on how the control is set and how you use hot water. The most efficient units have smaller electric backup heaters (less than 2,500 watts) and run the heat pump even while the resistance heat is on. Larger tanks also tend to run more efficiently than small tanks. Also, the heat comes from the air around the tank. If you live in a cold climate, that heat may not be free: If the tank is in a conditioned space, you\\u2019ve already paid to heat it up. If it\\u2019s in an unconditioned basement, the air may get cold and efficiency will suffer. At the same time, air that is exhausted from the heat pump is cool and dry, so running an HPWH in a basement may reduce dehumidification needs. Some units allow for a duct to divert the chilled air output outdoors in cold weather. Of course, in a warm climate a HPWH will help cool your house, saving even more on your electric bills. The bottom line is this: If you are looking to replace an existing electric or LP-gas water heater, consider getting a HPWH if you live in a mixed or hot climate. Average savings should be around $300 per year, so payback on the $1,000 to $1,500 increased cost is fairly reasonable. Savings may be higher where electric rates are higher than average, even in colder climates. Savings will tend to be largest when hot-water use is high.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6462\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":2068,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Hot_Water_Heater_Pic4.png\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"This \\u201chybrid\\u201d heat pump water heater produces hot water at a savings of about 50 percent when compared to conventional electric water heaters. 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style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"202f\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"50d6\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1c64\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Cooling Basics<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Reducing Loads<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Maintenance And Upgrades<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">New Air-Conditioning Systems<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"44bc\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1f54\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"d8c4e61\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7ef8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Cooling Basics\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5721\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads\\u2014and bills\\u2014benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"14ad\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"110c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"16ab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Where does the heat come from?\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"c99\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it\\u2019s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \\n\\nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it\\u2019s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"eaea1d5\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4f5bb73\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3141f9a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"How air conditioners work\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b90e1e9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Virtually all residential air-conditioning systems use a compressor-driven refrigerant vapor cycle to cool house air. The compressor cycle controls refrigerant temperatures in the condenser and evaporator coils, which absorb heat from indoor air at a low temperature, then reject it outdoors at a higher temperature. Air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators all use the refrigerant vapor cycle to essentially push heat uphill, from a cooler place to a warmer place. An air conditioner pushes heat from the cool indoors to the hot outdoors, cooling the interior. In addition to sending indoor heat outdoors, an air conditioner must also reject the heat generated by the compressor and fan motors.\\n\\nAnother aspect of air conditioners is their ability to dehumidify, as well as cool, indoor air. This happens when water condenses on the cold fins of the evaporator coil as humid air passes across them. Dehumidification is an important component in maintaining healthy indoor air quality and comfort. Water that is evaporated in air contains quite a bit of heat energy, which must be accounted for in the system\\u2019s design. The energy required to remove excess humidity is called latent load, and it comes from moisture sources within the home and, in humid climates, outdoor air leaking indoors.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2ede\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"417a\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7f8a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"4bd1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing Loads\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4181\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"With cooling, just as with heating, as the loads are reduced you spend less to stay comfortable. Think of the air conditioner as removing heat that builds up, rather than \\u201ccooling down\\u201d the house. The better you are at preventing heat from building up, the less heat your air conditioner must remove and the less time it will have to run\\u2014saving you money. There are two approaches to reducing cooling loads: reducing\\nyour need for cooling and reducing heat gains in your house.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"78db\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reduce the need for cooling\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"769\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"One surefire way to cut cooling costs is to use your air conditioner less. A house with more insulation, better windows, and less air leakage is comfortable with no air-conditioning for more of the summer. Setting the thermostat higher, particularly when the house is empty, reduces the system\\u2019s run time and saves energy. \\n\\nFans can also help raise the temperature at which you feel comfortable. By installing an efficient ceiling fan and keeping the air moving in occupied rooms, most people can comfort- ably increase the temperature setting of their thermostat by 4\\u00b0F to 6\\u00b0F, saving 20 percent to 35 percent on their cooling bills. Fan flow\\nshould point downward to maximize the feeling of air movement in the room. Oscillating and box fans can also provide portable comfort. When using any type of indoor fan, remember that it will keep people cool only while they are in the room. Turn off fans when you are not using them, because they generate heat.\\n\\nCeiling-mounted whole-house fans that exhaust into the attic are another popular method to reduce the need for cooling, but they must be used properly to be effective. Air leaks between the attic and house must be sealed, and the attic must be well vented to the exterior, to ensure that the fan exhaust goes outdoors rather than back into the house.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1d03\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5a17\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct insulation and sealing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2423\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Air-conditioning ducts have the same leakage and insulation issues as those of heating ducts. In fact, leaks and missing insulation in attic ductwork hurt air-conditioning systems more than heating systems, because during peak cooling times attics are usually much hotter than outdoor ambient temperatures. All air conditioning ducts in attics, crawlspaces, and garages should be thoroughly sealed and insulated\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"36b9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"66a\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"65ff\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"532c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"207e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Maintenance and Upgrades\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4ac7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Like most other equipment, air conditioners need regular maintenance and service. Some things you can probably do yourself, whereas others require a professional technician.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1263\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3099\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Like heat pumps and furnaces, air-conditioning systems depend on adequate airflow to remove heat efficiently from your house. Whether you have a central air conditioner or individual room units, check the filters regularly and clean or replace them when they are dirty\\u2014 once or twice a season should be adequate. Because airflow is important, do not shut off any of the supply registers in the system\\u2014\\nespecially if the ducts are located in an attic, garage, or crawlspace.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4bf1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Cleaning air coils\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3d3e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"When filters don\\u2019t work properly or air gets around them, the evaporator coil can become clogged with dirt and dust. Depending on the system, you may need a service technician to access the coil. If you can reach it yourself, lift the dirt from behind with a stiff brush. Be careful not to drive dirt further in or bend the fins. The outdoor condenser coil should also be kept clean and free of dirt and debris. Don\\u2019t spray water directly at the coil, which may drive dirt deeper into the space between the fins. Instead, using a long-bristle brush with flexible bristles, carefully insert the bristles between the fins, and lift the dirt from behind. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1f3b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Regular service\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5549\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Regular service calls\\u2014typically every two to three years\\u2014should include testing the controls, checking and cleaning the blower, condenser, and evaporator coils as needed, checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines, and checking the condensate drain. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing any airflow problems, and then carefully measuring and correcting the refrigerant charge. Like a heat pump, once that has been done, service technicians should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless there is evidence that something is wrong. Like a heat pump, an over- or undercharged air conditioner is less efficient (particularly older models), and systems are often improperly charged. Airflow must be in the recommended range of 400 CFM to 425 CFM per ton before the refrigerant charge can be measured. \\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2bf4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":\"\",\"url\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"d1fe686\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5975\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2b34\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"788\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"4b23\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"New Air-Conditioning Systems\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"637a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you live in a hot climate and have central air conditioning that is 20 years old or more, replacing your system with a new, energy-efficient model should pay for itself in a reasonable time. High-efficiency systems on the market today are more than twice as efficient as systems from the 1980s. But before running out and replacing your system, you will first need to do two other things: Finish any upgrades on the building enclosure, and become familiar with air conditioning products and installation criteria. Of course, if you have a fairly new system (less than 10 years old), it is probably more cost effective to maintain it and keep it running as efficiently as possible until it wears out. As always, energy-efficient upgrades always cost the least when you are fixing or replacing something anyway. If your old air conditioner is on its last legs or not operating, replace it with the most efficient unit you can find.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6ef2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"High-efficiency air-conditioning\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1545\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"New central air conditioners are rated for energy performance with a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER). SEER ratings are measurements under standardized test conditions of Btu per hour of cooling output, divided by input watts. The higher the SEER, the more efficient the system. New central air conditioners are required to have a SEER rating of at least 13; the most efficient units have SEER ratings from 16 to 23. Some of the best high efficiency systems have two-speed compressors; the lower speed provides better, more efficient cooling and dehumidification under mild, part load conditions. When you are replacing a central air conditioning unit with a more efficient one, it\\u2019s very important to match the new outdoor unit and the indoor evaporator coil. You may be able to save some money on the installation by keeping your old coil but be careful: you\\u2019re unlikely to get the full efficiency ratings of the new unit. If you get a proposal to replace only the outdoor unit, the contractor should be able to demonstrate that the existing indoor coil is listed for use with the new outdoor unit; don\\u2019t accept \\u201cdon\\u2019t worry, it\\u2019s fine the way it is\\u201d as an answer.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3586\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sizing a system\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"12c6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Proper sizing has been emphasized as a key efficiency issue for years in the energy-efficiency world, but there\\u2019s little evidence that it affects operating costs very much. Duct leakage and insulation in unconditioned spaces are far more important, especially with modern, high efficiency equipment. \\n\\nOversized air conditioners do cost more to buy and maintain and require more airflow and larger ductwork. Dehumidification, which depends on air flowing through the evaporator coil for enough time to extract condensed moisture, is one important reason to carefully size an air conditioning system in humid climates. When an oversized system runs for only a few minutes, the moisture may just start to collect on the coils before the thermostat is satisfied. Once the unit shuts down, the moisture re-evaporates into the house. An air conditioner that is too large by 50 percent to 100 percent will be unable to control humidity effectively, so people may tend to set the thermostat lower to compensate. Many new, efficient air conditioners have multiple speeds or special dehumidification modes that can effectively compensate for oversizing; if you are in a humid climate, consider one of these features, or get a stand-alone dehumidifier.\\n\\nCorrect load calculations are based on your home\\u2019s window size, the glass type, and the size and R-values of the walls and roof. The proper size also varies with the direction the home faces: Sometimes a 90-degree rotation can cut the cooling load in half. If a contractor gives you a price for an air conditioner on the phone, or simply offers to replace the existing unit with a new one of the same size, get a bid from someone else, especially if you have already made energy improvements in your house. The money\\nyou save by buying a smaller unit may pay for an efficiency upgrade.\\n\\nWhen installing a new air conditioner, shop for value, not just for price. Other things to look for when assessing bids on new air-conditioning equipment include the warranties (from both the manufacturer and the installer), service contracts, longevity of the business, customer references, and technician knowledge. Try to find a contractor who is an Energy Star partner and\\/or NATE certified, or regularly attends manufacturer\\u2019s trainings.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"19ef\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"830f179\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ductless mini-split air conditioners are a great alternative to window units. They are more efficient and quieter, and they don\\u2019t use up a window (or allow air leakage). 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fa-linkedin\",\"_id\":\"dc10550\",\"link\":{\"is_external\":\"true\",\"url\":\"https:\\/\\/www.linkedin.com\\/company\\/energy-new-england\\/\",\"stylepress_template\":\"\",\"stylepress_display\":\"\",\"stylepress_width\":\"500\",\"nofollow\":\"\"}}],\"align\":\"\",\"icon_color\":\"custom\",\"icon_primary_color\":\"rgba(0,0,0,0)\",\"icon_secondary_color\":\"rgba(255,255,255,0.45)\",\"icon_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":15},\"icon_padding\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":0},\"icon_spacing\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"hover_secondary_color\":\"#f49ac3\",\"align_mobile\":\"left\",\"align_tablet\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"social-icons\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false}]'),(12012,2070,'_elementor_version','0.4'),(12013,2070,'_elementor_template_type','post'),(12015,2071,'_wp_page_template','default'),(12016,2071,'_elementor_edit_mode','builder'),(12017,2071,'_elementor_template_type','post'),(12018,2071,'_elementor_page_settings','a:1:{s:21:\"background_background\";s:7:\"classic\";}'),(12019,2071,'_elementor_data','[{\"id\":\"19c1\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"background_background\":\"gradient\",\"margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":0,\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":0,\"isLinked\":true},\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3f08\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7e70\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"<p>Insulation<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1093\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"From the attic to the basement, insulation is like a down jacket around your house that keeps you warm in the winter (and, like a thermos, cool in the summer). In many houses, it is probably easier to insulate than it is to seal air leaks, though it\\u2019s a big job if you need to insulate exterior walls. Attics are relatively easy to insulate, and most houses can benefit from some added insulation. Regardless of the age of your house, don\\u2019t be fooled just because there\\u2019s some insulation in the attic\\u2014even if it looks like a lot. Some homes have a thin layer that does little good; others have insulation that was installed in only the areas that were easy to reach. Even newer homes that have a lot of insulation can still have significant gaps and installation problems that are worth fixing\\u2014by someone who cares enough about the details to do it right.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6f8e\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"65fd\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"593e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Attic Insulation<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Sloped Ceilings<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Insulating Walls<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Insulating Floors<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Insulating Foundation Walls<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3fba\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5ddd\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4f1e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"5897\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Air-Sealing Priorities\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2ce3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"624b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities.png\",\"id\":1505},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2d7\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2309\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6497\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Seal the high and low leaks\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7e15\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.<\\/p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.<\\/p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab\\u2014the home\\u2019s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"10ff\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"426\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4e9a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Attic Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"643e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>When walking around your house, you\\u2019re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don\\u2019t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don\\u2019t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can\\u2019t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible\\u2014from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that\\u2019s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"493b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"3674\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><b>Attic Bypasses<\\/b><\\/p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:<\\/p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).<\\/li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.<\\/li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).<\\/li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).<\\/li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.<\\/li><\\/ol>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3069\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Through-framing into attics\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7b19\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks.\\u00a0<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"390e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/06\\/air-sealing_attic-details.png\",\"id\":1506},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"e11\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Recessed lights\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6799\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Recessed \\u201ccan\\u201d light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn\\u2019t get too hot. Also, an older unit can\\u2019t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big \\u201chole\\u201d for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or \\u201cIC.\\u201d The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1bb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Other special situations\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6dd2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don\\u2019t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can\\u2019t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.<\\/p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It\\u2019s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.<\\/p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.<\\/p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2e07\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"633\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"35d2\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"285\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"54b6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement\\/Crawlspace Air-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5d09\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2dcd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basement walls\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"aff\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill\\/band joist area.<\\/p><p><b>Service penetrations<\\/b>\\u00a0Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).<\\/p><p><b>Stepped foundation<\\/b>\\u00a0walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.<\\/p><p><b>Bulkhead doors\\u00a0<\\/b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.<\\/p><p><b>Sills and band joists<\\/b>\\u00a0The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1edf\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5308\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"509b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"d6c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Safety First\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6b4f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas\\u2014 including radon\\u2014that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. 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It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6ee5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":66,\"_inline_size\":null,\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"10\",\"right\":\"10\",\"bottom\":\"10\",\"left\":\"50\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"25\",\"isLinked\":false},\"padding_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"25\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":false}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7f4b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blower-door testing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"db7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don\\u2019t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.<\\/p>\\n<p>It\\u2019s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5cf3\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4fdb\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5925\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sealing the floor deck\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"bold\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"17e3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it\\u2019s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6e78\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Crawlspaces\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5838\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"20b0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Slab-on-grade\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b93\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. 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style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1093\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"From the attic to the basement, insulation is like a down jacket around your house that keeps you warm in the winter (and, like a thermos, cool in the summer). In many houses, it is probably easier to insulate than it is to seal air leaks, though it\\u2019s a big job if you need to insulate exterior walls. Attics are relatively easy to insulate, and most houses can benefit from some added insulation. Regardless of the age of your house, don\\u2019t be fooled just because there\\u2019s some insulation in the attic\\u2014even if it looks like a lot. Some homes have a thin layer that does little good; others have insulation that was installed in only the areas that were easy to reach. Even newer homes that have a lot of insulation can still have significant gaps and installation problems that are worth fixing\\u2014by someone who cares enough about the details to do it right.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6f8e\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"65fd\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"593e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Attic Insulation<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Sloped Ceilings<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Insulating Walls<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Insulating Floors<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Insulating Foundation Walls<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3fba\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5ddd\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4f1e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"5897\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Attic Insulation\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2ce3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attics are typically insulated first, and they usually receive the most insulation. People usually assume that attics are insulated because \\u201cheat rises,\\u201d but heat doesn\\u2019t actually rise at all. The reason attics tend to get more insulation is much less glamorous: The attic is simply the cheapest and easiest place to add insulation, in both old and new houses. In fact, in a moderately insulated two-story house, there may be two to four times as much conductive heat loss (not including air leakage or windows) through the exterior walls as through the attic. Perform air-sealing before you insulate, unless you plan to insulate with sprayed foam and complete the air sealing at the same time. Also, if you intend to vent a bath fan, install a ventilation system, change any electrical wiring, or do any other work in the attic, now is the time.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2d7\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2309\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6497\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"How much insulation?\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7e15\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Insulation is measured in R-value; the higher the R-value, the less heat loss. To some extent, there is an effect of diminishing returns in that the first 6 in. of insulation will save you more money than the next 6 in. But it doesn\\u2019t pay to skimp, either. Once you\\u2019re up in the attic installing insulation, you may as well do it right. Generally, the minimum recommended R-value for an attic is R-38. In cold northern climates, aim for between R-50 and R-60; in hot climates, R-30 may be adequate. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3984345\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"64295dd\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4cde704\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Fiberglass Batts\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4acf754\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Fiberglass batts are typically the insulation of choice for do-it-yourselfers. The material is easy to transport and install by yourself. It\\u2019s ideal for an attic where you may want to add living space later (or make other changes), because it is easy to remove and replace. But there is a price to pay for convenience.  No matter how carefully you detail fiberglass batts, they rarely work as well as the factory ratings suggest.  Because of the annoying, itchy quality of fiberglass, several manufacturers market encapsulated batts that are surrounded by plastic. Steer clear of these products; they\\u2019re more of a marketing gimmick than a worthwhile innovation. Encapsulated batts are more expensive and harder to install properly. Although the coverings may make the material more comfortable to work with, they also increase the difficulty of detailing the batts properly.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2a0589e\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"c72cad9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"eb1d68a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blowing attic insulation\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"db16c97\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If your roof is made with trusses, or the attic has flooring with little or no insulation under it, it\\u2019s hard to get good results with fiberglass. In those cases, your best bet is to use a loose-fill material, such as cellulose. One big advantage of blown cellulose is that it is fast and easy to install. You don\\u2019t have to worry about cutting, fitting, fluffing, or most of the other details that concern fiberglass batts. You can also cover the top of existing insulation with cellulose, which will settle into all the gaps and spaces between the batts. This improves what\\u2019s already there and adds R-value.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6cad54e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"69c97ac\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The flame-retardant chemicals used to treat cellulose tend to discourage insects and rodents from nesting in it.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"ee743ed\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7ef8df3\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"83ab221\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Storage areas\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"79c3c90\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"People often use attics for storage. Eliminate attic storage, if possible. There are plenty of good reasons to get rid of stuff (both thermal and psychological). Still, many homes lack storage space, and the attic is a natural place for those boxes of holiday decorations. If you have a partially or fully floored attic, you can set aside an area near the access hatch or stairs by making a dam out of 12-in.-thick fiberglass batts. Insulate the rest of the attic, making sure there is insulation under the floorboards as well. Once the dust has settled, you should be able to move stuff in and out without disturbing the insulation.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"95780a3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"10ff\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"426\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4e9a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sloped Ceilings\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"643e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Many homes have sloped ceiling areas\\u2014places where plaster or drywall is applied directly to the underside of the roof rafters. Examples include Cape-style houses, which usually have sloped ceilings between the knee wall and the flat ceiling above or rooms with partial or full cathedral ceilings. Some homes just have a narrow-sloped area for a few feet near the eaves. These enclosed cavities present more of a challenge than an open attic. Some, like the typical Cape, have fairly easy access from an attic space either above or below. Others, like a full cathedral ceiling, are more difficult. The biggest distinction between dense-packed and open-blown cellulose is that dense-pack is installed in an enclosed cavity. But it\\u2019s not enough just to be enclosed\\u2014to dense-pack, by definition, means using enough air pressure to compress the material more densely than it could ever compress from settling.\\n\\nRoof-shingle warranties are another concern. Unvented cathedral ceilings experience hotter roof temperatures\\u2014typically by 2 percent to 4 percent\\u2014than vented roofs. Because those higher temperatures may accelerate degradation (venting is assumed to reduce roof temperatures), some roofing manufacturers won\\u2019t honor warranty claims on unvented, or hot, roofs. But research has shown that shingle color actually has a much larger impact (about 10 percent) on roof temperature than venting does, and several manufacturers do provide warranty service for unvented roofs. Choose one of those, or vent the roof first if shingle-warranty service is important to you.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3069\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing moisture risk\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7b19\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>There are serious concerns relating to venting a cathedral- or flat-roof ceiling space. Good air sealing (which dense-packing helps) and indoor humidity control via mechanical ventilation help reduce condensation and moisture buildup. But even an excellent dense-pack job can allow some air movement. In an unvented cathedral ceiling or flat roof, this can deposit moisture at the roof deck, especially in a home with high humidity. There are two basic strategies to avoid increasing the risk of condensation and potential damage to the roof deck: using foam insulation to control condensing temperatures, and ensuring an opening from the unvented cavities into a larger, vented space. The first approach\\u2014using continuous foam insulation\\u2014is the only proven, code-approved method for an unvented roof. It can take two basic forms: rigid foam insulation added above and in contact with the roof deck, or sprayed foam added directly to the underside of the roof deck. Rigid foam is typically added during a re-roof, but usually a new sheathing surface (with a furred, vented space in heavy snow areas) is needed on top of the foam. This approach is expensive, but it\\u2019s a practical way to address a house with full cathedral ceilings if the roof is close to needing replacement. Consider interior sprayed foam insulation if you are planning extensive interior renovations (see \\u201cRenovations\\u201d for more discussion). With either foam method, once the roof deck is protected from condensation by a high enough R-value of foam, the remainder of the cavity may be insulated with blown insulation or batt (called \\u201cflash and batt\\u201d). The R-value of foam insulation depends on climate (see the table on the facing page and the map below). Both of these methods are explicitly allowed by code; both are energy efficient and low risk in any climate. The second approach is to provide a partial venting path for the closed dense-pack area. This can be achieved in homes that have sections of sloped ceilings (such as Cape-style homes) that may be difficult or impossible to vent properly. If one end of the dense-packed area is open to a vented attic space (preferably the top), any wetting effects appear to be balanced by drying toward the vented space. This approach can also be used under low-slope roofs (for example, a row house or shed dormer), where access near the low side is impossible. Experience has shown that up to one-third of the total attic area can be dense-packed without venting, provided that the remaining attic space is vented normally. Note that this method does not conform to standard code requirements but has been accepted by many local building officials. And I would consider this approach much riskier in climate zones 6 to 8. Of course, just as with an open attic floor, you have to be careful to avoid chimneys and non-IC-rated recessed lights. If you have a chimney in a key leak area, you may want to consider using a high-performance fiberglass. You could also open up the ceiling in that area to air-seal the chase with sheet metal.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"c76b352\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"High Performance Fiberglass\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"29201d7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"A new breed of blown-in fiberglass materials is now on the market. High performance fiberglass (such as Johns-Manville Spider\\u00ae and Knauf Perimeter PlusTM) can be dense packed to reduce air movement as effectively as cellulose in closed cavities. These products have slightly higher R-values than cellulose, but at much lower densities\\u2014and lower risk of plaster blow-out. The Building Performance Institute is developing a standard (Standard BPI-3202-T) to qualify other insulation products based on air-leakage control. Because these products are noncombustible, they are also safe to use in cavities adjacent to a chimney or fireplace.\\n\\nIf you insulate a roof with spray foam and there\\u2019s a furnace in the attic, you need to pay attention to combustion air requirements. You should be okay if the furnace is a modern powervented or condensing unit. But if it\\u2019s an older atmospheric-vented unit, you may need to add some transfer grilles from the attic into the living space. Better yet, replace the furnace with a high efficiency direct-vent unit.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"e11\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Existing Insulation in Older Homes\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6799\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Most homes built before the 1930s had no insulation at all, so if your home is from that era, you will be looking for insulation that was added later. It may be blown-in cellulose or urea-formaldehyde foam. If the walls are already insulated, it is rarely worth adding more, unless you find large areas that were never done at all, or if the walls were not insulated properly. If the installed insulation has settled and each wall bay has a large empty space at the top, it may be worth filling them in. Also look out for \\u201cback-plastering.\\u201d Although unusual, backplastered walls are built with an extra layer of lath and plaster in the middle of the stud space, to add an extra airspace and reduce heat loss through the wall. Those walls are difficult to insulate due to the narrow space, and it\\u2019s probably better to leave them alone unless you do major remodeling or re-siding. Homes that were built prior to 1960 may have minimal insulation; some have insulation that is sandwiched between layers of paper. It is possible to add cellulose insulation to walls with those thin insulation layers, but only with a fill tube. If the wall has thicker batts, it will probably be almost impossible to get the fill tube into the wall cavity without bunching the insulation; in that case, it won\\u2019t be worth trying to add more.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2e07\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"633\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"35d2\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"285\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"54b6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Insulating Walls\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5d09\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If you have little or no insulation in your walls, you will definitely benefit from installing some. Conductive heat loss through uninsulated walls represents a significant heating and cooling load, and it\\u2019s usually cost-effective to add insulation. Exterior walls are fairly difficult to insulate, unless you are remodeling, installing new drywall, or re-siding the house. Retrofitting insulation almost always means blowing in insulation; the process is very much like that for sloped ceiling dense-pack outlined above. The type of siding has a big impact on how easy it is to get into the wall, and it may help you decide whether to tackle the job yourself or hire an insulation contractor.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2dcd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"What\\u2019s in there now?\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"aff\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"How do you know what\\u2019s in the walls already? If you have done any remodeling on the house, you may already know. If not, there are a several ways to find out. It\\u2019s important to know what is in there, because that will have a big impact on how easy\\u2014or useful\\u2014it will be to insulate the walls. Remember that there may be different types of insulation (or none at all) in different parts of the house. If some rooms have been remodeled, or built at a different time, they will likely be insulated differently. Sometimes people start to insulate a house and don\\u2019t finish, so look in several places to be fairly certain of what is there. If the insulation is spotty or inconsistent, an infrared camera can identify all the areas that are uninsulated.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"ed0c7c0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3576\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2955\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7385\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"1cf1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Insulating Floors\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2536\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Some floors need insulation, and some do not. A basement with a furnace or boiler is typically warm enough that insulating the floor won\\u2019t save you much, if anything. Seal and insulate foundation walls to help keep that heat in the house. Most people want their basements to be at least moderately warm, at least to reduce the risk of pipes freezing and dry things out a bit. If you don\\u2019t mind having a very cold basement, you can combine floor insulation with insulating and sealing the ducts (or insulating heating pipes) to help keep the heat in the upper floors. Some floors that should be insulated are cantilevers; floors over garages, on stilts, or on piers; and slab-on-grade floors in cold climates. 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