(1945,2,'2018-07-10 20:20:27','2018-07-10 20:20:27','<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h2 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Taunton Municipal Lighting Plant</h2>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h5 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">SERVING TAUNTON, RAYNHAM, BERKLEY, AND NORTH DIGHTON</h5>		\n		<p>Taunton Municipal Lighting Plant (TMLP) has been an integral part of the City of Taunton for more than a century because it has successfully managed its customers’ investments, responded to and anticipated evolving energy needs, and remained focused on community values. TMLP’s ultimate goal is to provide information that allows its customer-owners to make informed decisions.</p>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/#&amp;panel1-1\" role=\"button\">\n						VISIT TMLP\'S WEBSITE\n					</a>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n										<img width=\"200\" height=\"200\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/taunton2.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/taunton2.png 200w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/taunton2-150x150.png 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 200px) 100vw, 200px\" />											\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h3 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Rebates</h3>		\n		<table width=\"552\">\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"198\"><strong>INCENTIVE OFFERINGS</strong></td>\n<td width=\"144\"><strong>RESIDENTIAL</strong></td>\n<td width=\"210\"><strong>COMMERCIAL</strong></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"198\">Home Energy Assessment</td>\n<td width=\"144\">Free</td>\n<td width=\"210\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"198\">Electric Peak Savings Program</td>\n<td width=\"144\">Enter to win prize packages</td>\n<td width=\"210\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"198\">Heat Pump w/ SEER ≥ 14 or HSPF ≥ 8</td>\n<td width=\"144\">$100 per $1,000 (up to $600)</td>\n<td width=\"210\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"198\">Refrigerator</td>\n<td width=\"144\">$115</td>\n<td width=\"210\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"198\">Unit AC w/ SEER ≥ 12</td>\n<td width=\"144\">$35</td>\n<td width=\"210\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"198\">Central AC SEER ≥ 15</td>\n<td width=\"144\">$115</td>\n<td width=\"210\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"198\">Clothes Washer - DPW</td>\n<td width=\"144\">$200</td>\n<td width=\"210\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"198\">Commercial Energy Assessments</td>\n<td width=\"144\"></td>\n<td width=\"210\">100%</td>\n</tr>\n</tbody>\n</table>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Energy Saving Rebates and Programs</h4>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n												ENERGY STAR® APPLIANCE REBATES					\n					<p>TMLP is pleased to offer rebates to customers that purchase selected energy efficient ENERGY STAR appliances. This offer includes refrigerators, clothes washing machines, room air conditioners, and dishwashers. ENERGY STAR appliances have been identified as being significantly more energy efficient than the average comparable model. Such appliances have the ENERGY STAR logo attached to the appliance on the yellow Energy Guide label. Eligible appliances can be found at <a href=\"http://www.energystar.gov/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>ENERGY STAR</u></a>.</p><p>In order for a customer to be eligible for TMLP’s Energy Efficient Appliance Rebate Incentive, the following conditions must exist:</p><ul><li>Customer is an active residential electric account with the TMLP for at least 6 months, has a zero balance, and has not received a previous rebate in the same calendar year.</li><li>Customer purchased an ENERGY STAR appliance (e.g. refrigerators, clothes washing machines, room AC units, dishwashers) between January 1st and December 31 in the calendar year of the initiative.</li><li>Customer has submitted a completed <a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/Appliance_Rebate_Fillable.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Appliance Rebate Form</u></a> along with original copies of all sales receipts.</li><li>Appliance must be installed at the account location of the customer of record.</li><li>TMLP reserves the right to inspect the installation on premises.</li></ul><p><i>This offer is available for a limited time and is only valid while funds last.</i></p>\n												HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>TMLP is pleased to offer its residential customers who own or rent a dwelling within its territory a free Home Energy Assessment. Consisting of two levels, this service enables TMLP customers to achieve energy savings in the home through receiving phone support from a qualified energy advisor and/or completing a comprehensive home energy assessment. Questions regarding energy efficiency may be answered by calling Energy New England (ENE) at <b>1-888-772-4242</b>. The customer can obtain valuable information via the phone and through literature sent to their address by having a discussion with an energy expert.</p><p>If necessary, customers can have a certified home energy professional perform a comprehensive energy assessment of their home’s energy use, free of charge. After the assessment, the customer will receive a summary report of all energy usage as well as recommendations on how to conserve energy. The customer will also receive up to $30 of free energy saving materials installed on the premises by the advisor as an educational tool.</p><p>Please view the <a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/Energy_Assessment_Flyer.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Home Energy Assessment Flyer</u></a> for more information.</p>\n												HOUSE N HOME THERMAL PROGRAM					\n					<p>The &#8216;House N Home&#8217; Thermal Rebate Program provides financial incentives to TMLP’s residential and non-profit customers to make buildings more energy efficient. The customer can be eligible to receive 50% of the total cost of materials and professional labor, up to a maximum rebate level of $500.</p><p>In order for a customer to be eligible for TMLP’s House N Home Thermal Program Incentive, the following conditions must exist:</p><ul><li>Customer is an active residential or non-profit electric account with the TMLP for at least 6 months, has a zero balance, and has not received a previous rebate in the same calendar year.</li><li>Customer must first participate in a free Home Energy Assessment.</li><li>Customer purchased eligible recommended measures from the assessment (e.g. attic insulation, wall insulation, rim joist insulation, air-sealing measures, window treatments, pipe and duct insulation) between January 1st and December 31st in the calendar year of the initiative.</li><li>Customer must complete a <a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/HHApplication_Fillable.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>House N Home Rebate Application form</u></a> as well as provide original copies of all receipts for materials and labor.</li><li>Electric heat customers take precedence from January to June. All other customers take precedence from July to December.</li></ul><p>Where applicable, the contractor must be licensed for the work performed. Each customer will be eligible for one rebate per the three year project window.</p><p><i>This form can be filled out on your computer, but it must be printed out in order to be submitted as the application requires both your signature and original copies of your receipts to be included. You can either bring it to the <a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/page.php?content=directions\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>TMLP Customer Care Office</u></a> at 33 Weir Street, Taunton MA or mail it to:</i></p><p><b>Taunton Municipal Lighting Plant</b><br />Attn: Customer Care Administrator<br />PO Box 870 <br />Taunton, MA 02780-0870</p>\n												SOLAR REBATE PROGRAM					\n					<p>The Solar Rebate Program offers financial incentives to TMLP’s residential customers intending to install a photovoltaic (solar) array on the property they own. The rebate incentive for a submitted project will be $1.50 per watt installed, up to a maximum rebate level of $4,500.<br />In order for a customer to be eligible for TMLP’s Solar Rebate Program Incentive, the following conditions must exist:</p><ul><li>Customer is an active residential or non-profit electric account with the TMLP for at least 6 months, has a zero balance, and has not received a previous rebate in the same calendar year.</li><li>Proposed photovoltaic arrays may be any size (pending TMLP approval), but the rebate will be calculated at $1.50 per watt, up to 3 KW or a maximum of $4,500.</li><li>Projects must be approved by TMLP prior to installation.</li><li>Projects must be completed by licensed electricians and professional, licensed contractors.</li><li>Customer must sign a net metering agreement and an interconnection agreement.</li><li>If customer intends to install a battery backup system alongside the solar installation, then the Battery Backup Verification form must be filled out as well.</li></ul><p>Necessary forms for residential customers interested in the Solar Rebate Program:</p><ul><li><u><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NM_SR_FAQ.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Net Metering &amp; Solar Rebate FAQ</a><br /></u></li><li><u><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/SolarRebateApplication_Fillable.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Solar Rebate Application Form</a><br /></u></li><li><u><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NMA.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Net Metering Agreement</a><br /></u></li><li><u><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NM-IA.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Net Metering Interconnection Agreement</a><br /></u></li><li><u><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NMIS.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Net Metering Interconnection Standards</a><br /></u></li><li><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/Battery_Backup_Verification.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Battery Backup Verification</u></a></li></ul><p><i>Please Note: While most of the forms can be filled out on your computer, they must be printed out in order to be submitted as original signatures from both the customer and the solar installer are required. Email scanned applications to </i><a href=\"mailto:sonjabritland@tmlp.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u><i>Sonja Britland</i></u></a><i>, or mail completed applications to:</i></p><p><b>TMLP Solar Rebate Program</b><br />PO Box 870<br />Taunton, MA 02780-870</p>\n												NET METERING (SOLAR)					\n					<p>Net Metering is available to residential, commercial, and industrial customers owning and operating renewable generating facilities for the purpose of offsetting all or part of the customer’s electric needs.</p><p>TMLP currently has two net metering categories – customers with generating systems of 60kW or less, and customers with generating systems between 60kW and 2,000kW. In order to qualify for net metering, the size of the total system may not exceed the customer’s highest peak demand for the preceding 12 months. The availability of net metering to customers is subject to the terms and conditions contained in the Net Metering Agreement and/or Tariff. TMLP may limit the cumulative generating capacity of all such facilities in its service territory and the availability of this service.</p><p>Individuals interested in building renewable generating facilities within the TMLP service territory that do not fit this description should contact TMLP to discuss the possibility of a Purchase Power Agreement. Please contact <a href=\"mailto:jamesirving@tmlp.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>TMLP’s Senior Resource Analyst</u></a> at <b>508-824-3129</b>.</p><p>Customers who intend to install a battery backup system alongside a solar installation should fill out the Battery Backup Verification form as well.<br />Application Forms and Additional Information:</p><ul><li><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NM_SR_FAQ.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Net Metering &amp; Solar Rebate FAQ</u></a></li><li><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NMA.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Net Metering Application</u></a></li><li><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NM-IA.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Net Metering Interconnection Agreement</u></a></li><li><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NMIS.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Net Metering Interconnection Standards</u></a></li><li><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NMT-60PLUS.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Net Metering Tariff For 60kW &#8211; 2000kW</u></a></li><li><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/Battery_Backup_Verification.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Battery Backup Verification Form</u></a></li></ul>\n												COMMERCIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>Maintaining energy efficiency is of paramount importance for commercial and industrial facilities in this world of tight budget constraints and skyrocketing costs. TMLP&#8217;s desire is to make businesses as profitable as possible by offering its commercial, industrial, municipal, and institutional customers an opportunity to identify and evaluate energy savings opportunities.</p><p>In partnership with <a href=\"https://www.ene.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Energy New England (ENE)</u></a>, a leader in energy resource evaluations, TMLP is offering an initial &#8220;walk through&#8221; audit to identify energy savings opportunities, free of charge. If the customer requests a more comprehensive &#8220;investment grade&#8221; engineering audit, then TMLP may reimburse the customer for 50% or more of the audit cost, provided certain recommended measures have been implemented.<br />The industrial energy conservation evaluations shall be performed on-site and shall identify major energy uses, such as lighting, HVAC, and other electrical systems. A summary report outlining the potential energy (kWh) savings, economic savings, and payback on investment will be presented to the customer.</p><p>To schedule an Energy Audit, call ENE at <b>1-888-772-4242</b>. Email <a href=\"mailto:sonjabritland@tmlp.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Sonja Britland</u></a> or call <b>508-824-3177</b> for more information.</p>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Energy New England</h4>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">Website</h4>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n			<h4 data-elementor-setting-key=\"title\">social media</h4>		\n			<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Taunton Municipal Lighting Plant','','inherit','closed','closed','','1943-revision-v1','','','2018-07-10 20:20:27','2018-07-10 20:20:27','',1943,'http://ee.ene.org/1943-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1946,2,'2018-07-10 20:23:49','2018-07-10 20:23:49','<h2>Taunton Municipal Lighting Plant</h2>		\n			<h5>SERVING TAUNTON, RAYNHAM, BERKLEY, AND NORTH DIGHTON</h5>		\n		<p>Taunton Municipal Lighting Plant (TMLP) has been an integral part of the City of Taunton for more than a century because it has successfully managed its customers’ investments, responded to and anticipated evolving energy needs, and remained focused on community values. TMLP’s ultimate goal is to provide information that allows its customer-owners to make informed decisions.</p>		\n			<a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/#&amp;panel1-1\" role=\"button\">\n						VISIT TMLP\'S WEBSITE\n					</a>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/taunton2-nr8phcbqyqehqbal1fx6h35ntm1zaenq3a9e0det0c.png\" title=\"taunton2\" alt=\"taunton2\" />											\n			<h3>Rebates</h3>		\n		<table width=\"588\">\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"191\"><strong>INCENTIVE OFFERINGS</strong></td>\n<td width=\"205\"><strong>RESIDENTIAL</strong></td>\n<td width=\"192\"><strong>COMMERCIAL</strong></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"191\">Energy Assessment</td>\n<td width=\"205\">Free</td>\n<td width=\"192\">Free initial walk-through, 50% or more of cost of investment grade audit</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"191\">Unit AC</td>\n<td width=\"205\">$25</td>\n<td width=\"192\">&nbsp;</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"191\">Clothes Washer</td>\n<td width=\"205\">$50</td>\n<td width=\"192\">&nbsp;</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"191\">Dishwasher</td>\n<td width=\"205\">$25</td>\n<td width=\"192\">&nbsp;</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"191\">Refrigerator</td>\n<td width=\"205\">$75</td>\n<td width=\"192\">&nbsp;</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"191\">House N Home Thermal Program</td>\n<td width=\"205\">50% up to $500</td>\n<td width=\"192\">&nbsp;</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"191\">Solar Rebate Program</td>\n<td width=\"205\">$1.50 per watt up to $4,500</td>\n<td width=\"192\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"191\">Net Metering (Solar)</td>\n<td width=\"205\">Yes</td>\n<td width=\"192\">Yes</td>\n</tr>\n</tbody>\n</table>		\n			<h4>Energy Saving Rebates and Programs</h4>		\n												ENERGY STAR® APPLIANCE REBATES					\n					<p>If you’re in the market for a new appliance, RMLP offers rebates of $25 to $75 on certain ENERGY STAR-rated refrigerators, dishwashers, washing machines, dehumidifiers, room air conditioners, and programmable thermostats.</p><p>Buying an ENERGY STAR appliance makes sense for three reasons—you will qualify for a rebate, save money in energy costs over the entire life of the appliance, and help the environment by decreasing pollution from fossil fuels used to generate electricity. If you buy a high-efficiency washing machine, you’ll save on water costs and help preserve water resources as well.</p><p>Before you buy a new appliance, download the Rebate Application Form or call or visit the RMLP office. The application form includes specific program requirements for the RMLP rebate.</p><p>For more details about the program, call Energy New England (ENE) at <b>1-888-772-4242</b>.</p>\n												HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>Energy New England (ENE) provides conservation services for the residential customers of its partnering utilities. ENE’s highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.</p><p>Call <b>888-772-4242</b> to schedule your <a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Home Energy Assessment</u></a> or <a href=\"#\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>SIGNUP</u></a> today.<br />For more information on how ENE can help you, please call <b>508-698-1208</b> or email <a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">solutions@ene.org</a>.</p>\n												VOLUNTARY PEAK MANAGEMENT PROGRAM					\n					<p>RMLP’s Voluntary Peak Demand Reduction Program provides RMLP industrial, commercial, and institutional customers with the opportunity to reduce costs by adjusting demand during critical peak hours. The program is 100% voluntary and can provide noteworthy cost savings.</p><p>Savings achieved by the customer action taken during peak demand hours will be calculated as actual savings realized, and will be applied as a credit to the customer’s invoice two billing periods after the called peak event. The credit typically equates to 3%-10% of the total utility bill. Load drop performance is displayed real-time and historically via the Tangent Amp web portal. No penalty is applied if no demand reductions are realized.</p><p>Please view the <a href=\"http://www.rowleylight.com/pdf/RMLP_Peak_Mgmt_Flyer.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Voluntary Peak Management Program Flyer</u></a> for more information about the program and how to apply.</p>\n												COMMERCIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>Assistance for Commercial Energy Audits is available to RMLP’s commercial and industrial customers that intend to invest in energy conservation measures.</p><p>Energy Audits cover such end-uses as lighting, HVAC, and motors. The cost of an audit can vary from several hundred dollars to several thousand dollars depending on the audit type and square footage of the building.</p><p>RMLP will fund up to $300 toward the cost of an audit that is performed through the professional auditing services of Energy New England (ENE). MLP will fund up to 75% of the installed cost of recommended measures, not to exceed $1,500 per customer audit.</p><p>RMLP reserves the right to fund commercial audits on a case-by-case basis.</p><p>For more information, contact RMLP’s office or ENE at <b>1-888-772-4242</b>.</p>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Taunton Municipal Lighting Plant (TMLP)','','inherit','closed','closed','','1422-revision-v1','','','2018-07-10 20:23:49','2018-07-10 20:23:49','',1422,'http://ee.ene.org/1422-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1947,2,'2018-07-10 20:27:38','2018-07-10 20:27:38','<h2>Wellesley Municipal Light Plant</h2>		\n			<h5>SERVING THE TOWNS OF WELLESLEY AND NEEDHAM</h5>		\n		<p>The Wellesley Municipal Light Plant (WMLP) implements best business practices to protect the safety of its employees and the public, and conducts its affairs in a socially responsible and ethical manner with respect for its many stakeholders. WMLP delivers environmentally sustainable and highly reliable electricity and telecommunication services at competitive rates.</p>		\n			<a href=\"https://wellesleyma.gov/228/Municipal-Light-Plant\" role=\"button\">\n						VISIT WMLP\'S WEBSITE\n					</a>\n										<img width=\"300\" height=\"67\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/wellseley-300x67.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/wellseley-300x67.png 300w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/wellseley.png 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" />											\n			<h3>Rebates</h3>		\n		<table width=\"582\">\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\"><strong>INCENTIVE OFFERINGS</strong></td>\n<td width=\"214\"><strong>RESIDENTIAL</strong></td>\n<td width=\"186\"><strong>COMMERCIAL</strong></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Home Energy Assessment</td>\n<td width=\"214\">Free</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Refrigerator</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$50</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Clothes Washer</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$25</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Programmable Thermostat</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$50</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Wireless Thermostat</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$100</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Central AC</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$100</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Unit AC</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$25</td>\n<td width=\"186\">&nbsp;</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Dehumidifier</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$50</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Dishwasher</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$25</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pump (SEER &lt;20)</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$150</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pump (SEER ≥20)</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$300</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Voluntary Renewable Energy Program</td>\n<td width=\"214\">Monthly surcharge</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n</tbody>\n</table>		\n			<h4>Energy Saving Rebates and Programs</h4>		\n												ENERGY STAR® APPLIANCE REBATES					\n					<p>TMLP is pleased to offer rebates to customers that purchase selected energy efficient ENERGY STAR appliances. This offer includes refrigerators, clothes washing machines, room air conditioners, and dishwashers. ENERGY STAR appliances have been identified as being significantly more energy efficient than the average comparable model. Such appliances have the ENERGY STAR logo attached to the appliance on the yellow Energy Guide label. Eligible appliances can be found at <a href=\"http://www.energystar.gov/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>ENERGY STAR</u></a>.</p><p>In order for a customer to be eligible for TMLP’s Energy Efficient Appliance Rebate Incentive, the following conditions must exist:</p><ul><li>Customer is an active residential electric account with the TMLP for at least 6 months, has a zero balance, and has not received a previous rebate in the same calendar year.</li><li>Customer purchased an ENERGY STAR appliance (e.g. refrigerators, clothes washing machines, room AC units, dishwashers) between January 1st and December 31 in the calendar year of the initiative.</li><li>Customer has submitted a completed <a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/Appliance_Rebate_Fillable.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Appliance Rebate Form</u></a> along with original copies of all sales receipts.</li><li>Appliance must be installed at the account location of the customer of record.</li><li>TMLP reserves the right to inspect the installation on premises.</li></ul><p><i>This offer is available for a limited time and is only valid while funds last.</i></p>\n												HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>TMLP is pleased to offer its residential customers who own or rent a dwelling within its territory a free Home Energy Assessment. Consisting of two levels, this service enables TMLP customers to achieve energy savings in the home through receiving phone support from a qualified energy advisor and/or completing a comprehensive home energy assessment. Questions regarding energy efficiency may be answered by calling Energy New England (ENE) at <b>1-888-772-4242</b>. The customer can obtain valuable information via the phone and through literature sent to their address by having a discussion with an energy expert.</p><p>If necessary, customers can have a certified home energy professional perform a comprehensive energy assessment of their home’s energy use, free of charge. After the assessment, the customer will receive a summary report of all energy usage as well as recommendations on how to conserve energy. The customer will also receive up to $30 of free energy saving materials installed on the premises by the advisor as an educational tool.</p><p>Please view the <a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/Energy_Assessment_Flyer.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Home Energy Assessment Flyer</u></a> for more information.</p>\n												HOUSE N HOME THERMAL PROGRAM					\n					<p>The &#8216;House N Home&#8217; Thermal Rebate Program provides financial incentives to TMLP’s residential and non-profit customers to make buildings more energy efficient. The customer can be eligible to receive 50% of the total cost of materials and professional labor, up to a maximum rebate level of $500.</p><p>In order for a customer to be eligible for TMLP’s House N Home Thermal Program Incentive, the following conditions must exist:</p><ul><li>Customer is an active residential or non-profit electric account with the TMLP for at least 6 months, has a zero balance, and has not received a previous rebate in the same calendar year.</li><li>Customer must first participate in a free Home Energy Assessment.</li><li>Customer purchased eligible recommended measures from the assessment (e.g. attic insulation, wall insulation, rim joist insulation, air-sealing measures, window treatments, pipe and duct insulation) between January 1st and December 31st in the calendar year of the initiative.</li><li>Customer must complete a <a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/HHApplication_Fillable.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>House N Home Rebate Application form</u></a> as well as provide original copies of all receipts for materials and labor.</li><li>Electric heat customers take precedence from January to June. All other customers take precedence from July to December.</li></ul><p>Where applicable, the contractor must be licensed for the work performed. Each customer will be eligible for one rebate per the three year project window.</p><p><i>This form can be filled out on your computer, but it must be printed out in order to be submitted as the application requires both your signature and original copies of your receipts to be included. You can either bring it to the <a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/page.php?content=directions\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>TMLP Customer Care Office</u></a> at 33 Weir Street, Taunton MA or mail it to:</i></p><p><b>Taunton Municipal Lighting Plant</b><br />Attn: Customer Care Administrator<br />PO Box 870 <br />Taunton, MA 02780-0870</p>\n												SOLAR REBATE PROGRAM					\n					<p>The Solar Rebate Program offers financial incentives to TMLP’s residential customers intending to install a photovoltaic (solar) array on the property they own. The rebate incentive for a submitted project will be $1.50 per watt installed, up to a maximum rebate level of $4,500.<br />In order for a customer to be eligible for TMLP’s Solar Rebate Program Incentive, the following conditions must exist:</p><ul><li>Customer is an active residential or non-profit electric account with the TMLP for at least 6 months, has a zero balance, and has not received a previous rebate in the same calendar year.</li><li>Proposed photovoltaic arrays may be any size (pending TMLP approval), but the rebate will be calculated at $1.50 per watt, up to 3 KW or a maximum of $4,500.</li><li>Projects must be approved by TMLP prior to installation.</li><li>Projects must be completed by licensed electricians and professional, licensed contractors.</li><li>Customer must sign a net metering agreement and an interconnection agreement.</li><li>If customer intends to install a battery backup system alongside the solar installation, then the Battery Backup Verification form must be filled out as well.</li></ul><p>Necessary forms for residential customers interested in the Solar Rebate Program:</p><ul><li><u><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NM_SR_FAQ.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Net Metering &amp; Solar Rebate FAQ</a><br /></u></li><li><u><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/SolarRebateApplication_Fillable.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Solar Rebate Application Form</a><br /></u></li><li><u><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NMA.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Net Metering Agreement</a><br /></u></li><li><u><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NM-IA.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Net Metering Interconnection Agreement</a><br /></u></li><li><u><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NMIS.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Net Metering Interconnection Standards</a><br /></u></li><li><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/Battery_Backup_Verification.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Battery Backup Verification</u></a></li></ul><p><i>Please Note: While most of the forms can be filled out on your computer, they must be printed out in order to be submitted as original signatures from both the customer and the solar installer are required. Email scanned applications to </i><a href=\"mailto:sonjabritland@tmlp.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u><i>Sonja Britland</i></u></a><i>, or mail completed applications to:</i></p><p><b>TMLP Solar Rebate Program</b><br />PO Box 870<br />Taunton, MA 02780-870</p>\n												NET METERING (SOLAR)					\n					<p>Net Metering is available to residential, commercial, and industrial customers owning and operating renewable generating facilities for the purpose of offsetting all or part of the customer’s electric needs.</p><p>TMLP currently has two net metering categories – customers with generating systems of 60kW or less, and customers with generating systems between 60kW and 2,000kW. In order to qualify for net metering, the size of the total system may not exceed the customer’s highest peak demand for the preceding 12 months. The availability of net metering to customers is subject to the terms and conditions contained in the Net Metering Agreement and/or Tariff. TMLP may limit the cumulative generating capacity of all such facilities in its service territory and the availability of this service.</p><p>Individuals interested in building renewable generating facilities within the TMLP service territory that do not fit this description should contact TMLP to discuss the possibility of a Purchase Power Agreement. Please contact <a href=\"mailto:jamesirving@tmlp.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>TMLP’s Senior Resource Analyst</u></a> at <b>508-824-3129</b>.</p><p>Customers who intend to install a battery backup system alongside a solar installation should fill out the Battery Backup Verification form as well.<br />Application Forms and Additional Information:</p><ul><li><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NM_SR_FAQ.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Net Metering &amp; Solar Rebate FAQ</u></a></li><li><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NMA.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Net Metering Application</u></a></li><li><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NM-IA.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Net Metering Interconnection Agreement</u></a></li><li><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NMIS.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Net Metering Interconnection Standards</u></a></li><li><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NMT-60PLUS.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Net Metering Tariff For 60kW &#8211; 2000kW</u></a></li><li><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/Battery_Backup_Verification.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Battery Backup Verification Form</u></a></li></ul>\n												COMMERCIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>Maintaining energy efficiency is of paramount importance for commercial and industrial facilities in this world of tight budget constraints and skyrocketing costs. TMLP&#8217;s desire is to make businesses as profitable as possible by offering its commercial, industrial, municipal, and institutional customers an opportunity to identify and evaluate energy savings opportunities.</p><p>In partnership with <a href=\"https://www.ene.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Energy New England (ENE)</u></a>, a leader in energy resource evaluations, TMLP is offering an initial &#8220;walk through&#8221; audit to identify energy savings opportunities, free of charge. If the customer requests a more comprehensive &#8220;investment grade&#8221; engineering audit, then TMLP may reimburse the customer for 50% or more of the audit cost, provided certain recommended measures have been implemented.<br />The industrial energy conservation evaluations shall be performed on-site and shall identify major energy uses, such as lighting, HVAC, and other electrical systems. A summary report outlining the potential energy (kWh) savings, economic savings, and payback on investment will be presented to the customer.</p><p>To schedule an Energy Audit, call ENE at <b>1-888-772-4242</b>. Email <a href=\"mailto:sonjabritland@tmlp.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Sonja Britland</u></a> or call <b>508-824-3177</b> for more information.</p>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Wellesley Municipal Light Plant (WMLP)','','inherit','closed','closed','','1424-revision-v1','','','2018-07-10 20:27:38','2018-07-10 20:27:38','',1424,'http://ee.ene.org/1424-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1948,2,'2018-07-10 20:31:06','2018-07-10 20:31:06','<h2>Wellesley Municipal Light Plant</h2>		\n			<h5>SERVING THE TOWNS OF WELLESLEY AND NEEDHAM</h5>		\n		<p>The Wellesley Municipal Light Plant (WMLP) implements best business practices to protect the safety of its employees and the public, and conducts its affairs in a socially responsible and ethical manner with respect for its many stakeholders. WMLP delivers environmentally sustainable and highly reliable electricity and telecommunication services at competitive rates.</p>		\n			<a href=\"https://wellesleyma.gov/228/Municipal-Light-Plant\" role=\"button\">\n						VISIT WMLP\'S WEBSITE\n					</a>\n										<img width=\"300\" height=\"67\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/wellseley-300x67.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/wellseley-300x67.png 300w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/wellseley.png 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" />											\n			<h3>Rebates</h3>		\n		<table width=\"582\">\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\"><strong>INCENTIVE OFFERINGS</strong></td>\n<td width=\"214\"><strong>RESIDENTIAL</strong></td>\n<td width=\"186\"><strong>COMMERCIAL</strong></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Home Energy Assessment</td>\n<td width=\"214\">Free</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Refrigerator</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$50</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Clothes Washer</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$25</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Programmable Thermostat</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$50</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Wireless Thermostat</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$100</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Central AC</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$100</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Unit AC</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$25</td>\n<td width=\"186\">&nbsp;</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Dehumidifier</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$50</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Dishwasher</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$25</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pump (SEER &lt;20)</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$150</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pump (SEER ≥20)</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$300</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Voluntary Renewable Energy Program</td>\n<td width=\"214\">Monthly surcharge</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n</tbody>\n</table>		\n			<h4>Energy Saving Rebates and Programs</h4>		\n												ENERGY EFFICIENT APPLIANCE REBATES					\n					<p>WMLP offers rebates on specific heating/cooling systems, ENERGY STAR qualified appliances, and programmable thermostats. Rebates are offered for window, ductless, and central air conditioners, dehumidifiers, refrigerators, clothes washers, and dishwashers that meet or exceed ENERGY STAR ratings. These items all reduce electricity usage during peak times. Limit is two items per account per calendar year.<br />For items purchased in 2018, the 2018 Application must be submitted by January 30, 2019.</p><p>A photo of your receipt and the yellow Energy Guide (which shows the ENERGY STAR logo) must be attached along with the application. Both are required to receive the rebate. The application may be submitted online, or it may be printed out and mailed to:</p><p>WMLP<br />Attn: Appliance Rebate Application<br />4 Municipal Way<br />Wellesley, MA 02481<br />Please allow 4 to 6 weeks for processing.<br /><br /></p><p>VOLUNTARY RENEWABLE ENERGY PROGRAM<br />It is a great time to choose renewable energy. WMLP makes it easy and affordable to reduce dependence on fossil fuels, increase energy stability in NE, and provide a healthier planet for future generations. WMLP’s Renewable Energy Program is a way to reduce your carbon footprint and support the Town of Wellesley’s goal of reducing emissions by 25% by the year 2020. Currently, WMLP offers local sources of wind, water, solar, and biomass power that are all clean, reliable, and affordable.</p><p>Bringing 100% renewable energy into your home is the equivalent of taking your car off the road for nine months. That&#8217;s how much CO2 you’ll save! By signing up, you are also helping Wellesley improve its ranking in the overall percentage of customers who choose to purchase renewable energy sources. Wellesley is currently 4th in the country for percentage of enrollees.<br />Aside from the obvious benefits renewable energy has on the environment, New England&#8217;s economy is boosted by utilizing local sources of renewable power as well. Local renewable energy also reduces dependence on foreign and finite sources of energy.</p><p>You can choose the percentage of energy you would like to come from local renewable sources at 4 cents per kWh more than WMLP&#8217;s already low rate.<br />Participation Level Monthly Surcharge:<br />• 10% renewable: $3 per month<br />• 25% renewable: $7.50 per month<br />• 50% renewable: $15.00 per month<br />• 100% renewable: $30 per month<br />Note: This is the approximate monthly surcharge for a typical Wellesley home using 750 kWh per month.<br />You may cancel at any time by calling the Customer Service Department at 781-235-7600, extension 3364 or 3365.</p>\n												HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>Energy New England (ENE) provides conservation services for the residential customers of its partnering utilities. ENE’s highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.</p><p>Call <b>888-772-4242</b> to schedule your <a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Home Energy Assessment</u></a> or <a href=\"#\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>SIGNUP</u></a> today.<br />For more information on how ENE can help you, please call <b>508-698-1208</b> or email <a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>solutions@ene.org</u></a>.</p>\n												HOUSE N HOME THERMAL PROGRAM					\n					<p>The &#8216;House N Home&#8217; Thermal Rebate Program provides financial incentives to TMLP’s residential and non-profit customers to make buildings more energy efficient. The customer can be eligible to receive 50% of the total cost of materials and professional labor, up to a maximum rebate level of $500.</p><p>In order for a customer to be eligible for TMLP’s House N Home Thermal Program Incentive, the following conditions must exist:</p><ul><li>Customer is an active residential or non-profit electric account with the TMLP for at least 6 months, has a zero balance, and has not received a previous rebate in the same calendar year.</li><li>Customer must first participate in a free Home Energy Assessment.</li><li>Customer purchased eligible recommended measures from the assessment (e.g. attic insulation, wall insulation, rim joist insulation, air-sealing measures, window treatments, pipe and duct insulation) between January 1st and December 31st in the calendar year of the initiative.</li><li>Customer must complete a <a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/HHApplication_Fillable.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>House N Home Rebate Application form</u></a> as well as provide original copies of all receipts for materials and labor.</li><li>Electric heat customers take precedence from January to June. All other customers take precedence from July to December.</li></ul><p>Where applicable, the contractor must be licensed for the work performed. Each customer will be eligible for one rebate per the three year project window.</p><p><i>This form can be filled out on your computer, but it must be printed out in order to be submitted as the application requires both your signature and original copies of your receipts to be included. You can either bring it to the <a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/page.php?content=directions\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>TMLP Customer Care Office</u></a> at 33 Weir Street, Taunton MA or mail it to:</i></p><p><b>Taunton Municipal Lighting Plant</b><br />Attn: Customer Care Administrator<br />PO Box 870 <br />Taunton, MA 02780-0870</p>\n												SOLAR REBATE PROGRAM					\n					<p>The Solar Rebate Program offers financial incentives to TMLP’s residential customers intending to install a photovoltaic (solar) array on the property they own. The rebate incentive for a submitted project will be $1.50 per watt installed, up to a maximum rebate level of $4,500.<br />In order for a customer to be eligible for TMLP’s Solar Rebate Program Incentive, the following conditions must exist:</p><ul><li>Customer is an active residential or non-profit electric account with the TMLP for at least 6 months, has a zero balance, and has not received a previous rebate in the same calendar year.</li><li>Proposed photovoltaic arrays may be any size (pending TMLP approval), but the rebate will be calculated at $1.50 per watt, up to 3 KW or a maximum of $4,500.</li><li>Projects must be approved by TMLP prior to installation.</li><li>Projects must be completed by licensed electricians and professional, licensed contractors.</li><li>Customer must sign a net metering agreement and an interconnection agreement.</li><li>If customer intends to install a battery backup system alongside the solar installation, then the Battery Backup Verification form must be filled out as well.</li></ul><p>Necessary forms for residential customers interested in the Solar Rebate Program:</p><ul><li><u><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NM_SR_FAQ.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Net Metering &amp; Solar Rebate FAQ</a><br /></u></li><li><u><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/SolarRebateApplication_Fillable.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Solar Rebate Application Form</a><br /></u></li><li><u><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NMA.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Net Metering Agreement</a><br /></u></li><li><u><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NM-IA.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Net Metering Interconnection Agreement</a><br /></u></li><li><u><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NMIS.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Net Metering Interconnection Standards</a><br /></u></li><li><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/Battery_Backup_Verification.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Battery Backup Verification</u></a></li></ul><p><i>Please Note: While most of the forms can be filled out on your computer, they must be printed out in order to be submitted as original signatures from both the customer and the solar installer are required. Email scanned applications to </i><a href=\"mailto:sonjabritland@tmlp.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u><i>Sonja Britland</i></u></a><i>, or mail completed applications to:</i></p><p><b>TMLP Solar Rebate Program</b><br />PO Box 870<br />Taunton, MA 02780-870</p>\n												NET METERING (SOLAR)					\n					<p>Net Metering is available to residential, commercial, and industrial customers owning and operating renewable generating facilities for the purpose of offsetting all or part of the customer’s electric needs.</p><p>TMLP currently has two net metering categories – customers with generating systems of 60kW or less, and customers with generating systems between 60kW and 2,000kW. In order to qualify for net metering, the size of the total system may not exceed the customer’s highest peak demand for the preceding 12 months. The availability of net metering to customers is subject to the terms and conditions contained in the Net Metering Agreement and/or Tariff. TMLP may limit the cumulative generating capacity of all such facilities in its service territory and the availability of this service.</p><p>Individuals interested in building renewable generating facilities within the TMLP service territory that do not fit this description should contact TMLP to discuss the possibility of a Purchase Power Agreement. Please contact <a href=\"mailto:jamesirving@tmlp.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>TMLP’s Senior Resource Analyst</u></a> at <b>508-824-3129</b>.</p><p>Customers who intend to install a battery backup system alongside a solar installation should fill out the Battery Backup Verification form as well.<br />Application Forms and Additional Information:</p><ul><li><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NM_SR_FAQ.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Net Metering &amp; Solar Rebate FAQ</u></a></li><li><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NMA.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Net Metering Application</u></a></li><li><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NM-IA.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Net Metering Interconnection Agreement</u></a></li><li><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NMIS.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Net Metering Interconnection Standards</u></a></li><li><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/NMT-60PLUS.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Net Metering Tariff For 60kW &#8211; 2000kW</u></a></li><li><a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/pdf/Battery_Backup_Verification.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Battery Backup Verification Form</u></a></li></ul>\n												COMMERCIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>Maintaining energy efficiency is of paramount importance for commercial and industrial facilities in this world of tight budget constraints and skyrocketing costs. TMLP&#8217;s desire is to make businesses as profitable as possible by offering its commercial, industrial, municipal, and institutional customers an opportunity to identify and evaluate energy savings opportunities.</p><p>In partnership with <a href=\"https://www.ene.org/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Energy New England (ENE)</u></a>, a leader in energy resource evaluations, TMLP is offering an initial &#8220;walk through&#8221; audit to identify energy savings opportunities, free of charge. If the customer requests a more comprehensive &#8220;investment grade&#8221; engineering audit, then TMLP may reimburse the customer for 50% or more of the audit cost, provided certain recommended measures have been implemented.<br />The industrial energy conservation evaluations shall be performed on-site and shall identify major energy uses, such as lighting, HVAC, and other electrical systems. A summary report outlining the potential energy (kWh) savings, economic savings, and payback on investment will be presented to the customer.</p><p>To schedule an Energy Audit, call ENE at <b>1-888-772-4242</b>. Email <a href=\"mailto:sonjabritland@tmlp.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Sonja Britland</u></a> or call <b>508-824-3177</b> for more information.</p>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Wellesley Municipal Light Plant (WMLP)','','inherit','closed','closed','','1424-revision-v1','','','2018-07-10 20:31:06','2018-07-10 20:31:06','',1424,'http://ee.ene.org/1424-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1950,2,'2018-07-10 20:36:09','2018-07-10 20:36:09','<h2>Wellesley Municipal Light Plant</h2>		\n			<h5>SERVING THE TOWNS OF WELLESLEY AND NEEDHAM</h5>		\n		<p>The Wellesley Municipal Light Plant (WMLP) implements best business practices to protect the safety of its employees and the public, and conducts its affairs in a socially responsible and ethical manner with respect for its many stakeholders. WMLP delivers environmentally sustainable and highly reliable electricity and telecommunication services at competitive rates.</p>		\n			<a href=\"https://wellesleyma.gov/228/Municipal-Light-Plant\" role=\"button\">\n						VISIT WMLP\'S WEBSITE\n					</a>\n										<img width=\"300\" height=\"67\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/wellseley-300x67.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/wellseley-300x67.png 300w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/wellseley.png 320w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" />											\n			<h3>Rebates</h3>		\n		<table width=\"582\">\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\"><strong>INCENTIVE OFFERINGS</strong></td>\n<td width=\"214\"><strong>RESIDENTIAL</strong></td>\n<td width=\"186\"><strong>COMMERCIAL</strong></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Home Energy Assessment</td>\n<td width=\"214\">Free</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Refrigerator</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$50</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Clothes Washer</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$25</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Programmable Thermostat</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$50</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Wireless Thermostat</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$100</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Central AC</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$100</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Unit AC</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$25</td>\n<td width=\"186\">&nbsp;</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Dehumidifier</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$50</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Dishwasher</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$25</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pump (SEER &lt;20)</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$150</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Ductless Mini-Split Heat Pump (SEER ≥20)</td>\n<td width=\"214\">$300</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"181\">Voluntary Renewable Energy Program</td>\n<td width=\"214\">Monthly surcharge</td>\n<td width=\"186\"></td>\n</tr>\n</tbody>\n</table>		\n			<h4>Energy Saving Rebates and Programs</h4>		\n												ENERGY EFFICIENT APPLIANCE REBATES					\n					<p>WMLP offers rebates on specific heating/cooling systems, ENERGY STAR qualified appliances, and programmable thermostats. Rebates are offered for window, ductless, and central air conditioners, dehumidifiers, refrigerators, clothes washers, and dishwashers that meet or exceed ENERGY STAR ratings. These items all reduce electricity usage during peak times. Limit is two items per account per calendar year.<br />For items purchased in 2018, the <a href=\"https://wellesleyma.gov/FormCenter/Municipal-Light-Plant-5/2018-Energy-Product-Rebates-75\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>2018 Application</u></a> must be submitted by January 30, 2019.</p><p>A photo of your receipt and the yellow Energy Guide (which shows the ENERGY STAR logo) must be attached along with the application. Both are required to receive the rebate. The application may be submitted online, or it may be printed out and mailed to:</p><p><b>WMLP</b><br />Attn: Appliance Rebate Application<br />4 Municipal Way<br />Wellesley, MA 02481</p><p><i>Please allow 4 to 6 weeks for processing.</i></p>\n												HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>Energy New England (ENE) provides conservation services for the residential customers of its partnering utilities. ENE’s highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.</p><p>Call <b>888-772-4242</b> to schedule your <a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Home Energy Assessment</u></a> or <a href=\"#\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>SIGNUP</u></a> today.<br />For more information on how ENE can help you, please call <b>508-698-1208</b> or email <a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>solutions@ene.org</u></a>.</p>\n												VOLUNTARY RENEWABLE ENERGY PROGRAM					\n					<p>It is a great time to choose renewable energy. WMLP makes it easy and affordable to reduce dependence on fossil fuels, increase energy stability in NE, and provide a healthier planet for future generations. WMLP’s Renewable Energy Program is a way to reduce your carbon footprint and support the Town of Wellesley’s goal of reducing emissions by 25% by the year 2020. Currently, WMLP offers local sources of wind, water, solar, and biomass power that are all clean, reliable, and affordable.</p><p>Bringing 100% renewable energy into your home is the equivalent of taking your car off the road for nine months. That&#8217;s how much CO2 you’ll save! By signing up, you are also helping Wellesley improve its ranking in the overall percentage of customers who choose to purchase renewable energy sources. Wellesley is currently 4th in the country for percentage of enrollees.<br />Aside from the obvious benefits renewable energy has on the environment, New England&#8217;s economy is boosted by utilizing local sources of renewable power as well. Local renewable energy also reduces dependence on foreign and finite sources of energy.</p><p>You can choose the percentage of energy you would like to come from local renewable sources at 4 cents per kWh more than WMLP&#8217;s already low rate.</p><p>Participation Level Monthly Surcharge:</p><ul><li>10% renewable: $3 per month</li><li>25% renewable: $7.50 per month</li><li>50% renewable: $15.00 per month</li><li>100% renewable: $30 per month</li></ul><p><i>Note: This is the approximate monthly surcharge for a typical Wellesley home using 750 kWh per month.</i></p><p>You may cancel at any time by calling the Customer Service Department at <b>781-235-7600</b>, extension <b>3364</b> or <b>3365</b></p>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Wellesley Municipal Light Plant (WMLP)','','inherit','closed','closed','','1424-revision-v1','','','2018-07-10 20:36:09','2018-07-10 20:36:09','',1424,'http://ee.ene.org/1424-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1952,2,'2018-07-10 20:43:07','2018-07-10 20:43:07','<h2>Rowley Municipal Lighting Plant</h2>		\n			<h5>SERVING THE TOWN OF ROWLEY</h5>		\n		<p>The mission of the Rowley Municipal Lighting Plant (RMLP) is to meet the needs of its current and future customers by providing reliable and cost effective energy services in a responsible, courteous, and efficient manner.</p>		\n			<a href=\"http://www.townofrowley.net/common/index.php?com=rowl&amp;div=FF&amp;nav=FF&amp;page=F05\" role=\"button\">\n						VISIT HMLP\'S WEBSITE\n					</a>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/rowley-nr8phbdwrwd7epby6xijwle7886m2pjzr5lwj3g76k.png\" title=\"rowley\" alt=\"rowley\" />											\n			<h3>Rebates</h3>		\n		&nbsp;\n<table width=\"594\">\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"204\"><strong>INCENTIVE OFFERINGS</strong></td>\n<td width=\"180\"><strong>RESIDENTIAL</strong></td>\n<td width=\"210\"><strong>COMMERCIAL</strong></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"204\">Energy Assessment*</td>\n<td width=\"180\">Free</td>\n<td width=\"210\">Up to $300 toward cost of audit, up to 75% of installed cost of recommended measures (not to exceed $1,500 per audit)</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"204\">Refrigerator</td>\n<td width=\"180\">$75</td>\n<td width=\"210\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"204\">Unit AC</td>\n<td width=\"180\">$25</td>\n<td width=\"210\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"204\">Clothes Washer</td>\n<td width=\"180\">$50</td>\n<td width=\"210\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"204\">Dehumidifier</td>\n<td width=\"180\">$25</td>\n<td width=\"210\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"204\">Dishwasher</td>\n<td width=\"180\">$25</td>\n<td width=\"210\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"204\">Programmable Thermostat</td>\n<td width=\"180\">$25</td>\n<td width=\"210\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"204\">Hybrid Hot Water Heater</td>\n<td width=\"180\">$250</td>\n<td width=\"210\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"204\">Voluntary Peak Management Program</td>\n<td width=\"180\"></td>\n<td width=\"210\">Bill credit</td>\n</tr>\n</tbody>\n</table>\n<em>*RMLP reserves the right to fund commercial audits on a case-by-case basis.</em>		\n			<h4>Energy Saving Rebates and Programs</h4>		\n												ENERGY STAR® APPLIANCE REBATES					\n					<p>If you’re in the market for a new appliance, RMLP offers rebates of $25 to $75 on certain ENERGY STAR-rated refrigerators, dishwashers, washing machines, dehumidifiers, room air conditioners, and programmable thermostats.</p><p>Buying an ENERGY STAR appliance makes sense for three reasons—you will qualify for a rebate, save money in energy costs over the entire life of the appliance, and help the environment by decreasing pollution from fossil fuels used to generate electricity. If you buy a high-efficiency washing machine, you’ll save on water costs and help preserve water resources as well.</p><p>Before you buy a new appliance, download the Rebate Application Form or call or visit the RMLP office. The application form includes specific program requirements for the RMLP rebate.</p><p>For more details about the program, call Energy New England (ENE) at <b>1-888-772-4242</b>.</p>\n												HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>Energy New England (ENE) provides conservation services for the residential customers of its partnering utilities. ENE’s highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.</p><p>Call <b>888-772-4242</b> to schedule your <a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Home Energy Assessment</u></a> or <a href=\"#\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>SIGNUP</u></a> today.<br />For more information on how ENE can help you, please call <b>508-698-1208</b> or email <a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">solutions@ene.org</a>.</p>\n												VOLUNTARY PEAK MANAGEMENT PROGRAM					\n					<p>RMLP’s Voluntary Peak Demand Reduction Program provides RMLP industrial, commercial, and institutional customers with the opportunity to reduce costs by adjusting demand during critical peak hours. The program is 100% voluntary and can provide noteworthy cost savings.</p><p>Savings achieved by the customer action taken during peak demand hours will be calculated as actual savings realized, and will be applied as a credit to the customer’s invoice two billing periods after the called peak event. The credit typically equates to 3%-10% of the total utility bill. Load drop performance is displayed real-time and historically via the Tangent Amp web portal. No penalty is applied if no demand reductions are realized.</p><p>Please view the <a href=\"http://www.rowleylight.com/pdf/RMLP_Peak_Mgmt_Flyer.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Voluntary Peak Management Program Flyer</u></a> for more information about the program and how to apply.</p>\n												COMMERCIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>Assistance for Commercial Energy Audits is available to RMLP’s commercial and industrial customers that intend to invest in energy conservation measures.</p><p>Energy Audits cover such end-uses as lighting, HVAC, and motors. The cost of an audit can vary from several hundred dollars to several thousand dollars depending on the audit type and square footage of the building.</p><p>RMLP will fund up to $300 toward the cost of an audit that is performed through the professional auditing services of Energy New England (ENE). MLP will fund up to 75% of the installed cost of recommended measures, not to exceed $1,500 per customer audit.</p><p>RMLP reserves the right to fund commercial audits on a case-by-case basis.</p><p>For more information, contact RMLP’s office or ENE at <b>1-888-772-4242</b>.</p>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Rowley Municipal Light Plant (RMLP)','','inherit','closed','closed','','1420-revision-v1','','','2018-07-10 20:43:07','2018-07-10 20:43:07','',1420,'http://ee.ene.org/1420-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1953,2,'2018-07-10 20:46:15','2018-07-10 20:46:15','<h2>Concord Municipal Light Plant</h2>		\n			<h5>SERVING THE TOWN OF CONCORD</h5>		\n		Concord Municipal Light Plant (CMLP) is proud to be a part of the Concord community. When creating this municipal utility, the founders believed that local control would mean better utility service. CMLP strives to provide its customers with an excellent customer service experience.		\n			<a href=\"http://www.concordnet.org/464/Municipal-Light-Plant\" role=\"button\">\n						VISIT CMLP\'S WEBSITE\n					</a>\n										<img width=\"200\" height=\"200\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/concord_logos_Centered.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/concord_logos_Centered.png 200w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/concord_logos_Centered-150x150.png 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 200px) 100vw, 200px\" />											\n			<h3>Rebates</h3>		\n		<table width=\"570\"><tbody><tr><td width=\"220\"><strong>INCENTIVE OFFERINGS</strong></td><td width=\"176\"><strong>RESIDENTIAL</strong></td><td width=\"174\"><strong>COMMERCIAL</strong></td></tr><tr><td width=\"220\">Home Energy Assessment</td><td width=\"176\">Free plus LED bulb replacement</td><td width=\"174\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"220\">Refrigerator</td><td width=\"176\">$200</td><td width=\"174\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"220\">Clothes washer</td><td width=\"176\">$400</td><td width=\"174\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"220\">Clothesline/dry rack</td><td width=\"176\">$50</td><td width=\"174\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"220\">Standalone programmable thermostat</td><td width=\"176\">$50</td><td width=\"174\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"220\">Weatherization (electric, oil, or propane customers)</td><td width=\"176\">$1,000 cap per calendar year</td><td width=\"174\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"220\">Save on oil prices (People\'s Power and Light)</td><td width=\"176\">✓</td><td width=\"174\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"220\">Reduce summer peak demand</td><td width=\"176\">✓</td><td width=\"174\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"220\">Controlled water heating program</td><td width=\"176\">✓</td><td width=\"174\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"220\">EV-Drive Green (People\'s Power and Light)</td><td width=\"176\">✓</td><td width=\"174\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"220\">Air Source Heat Pump</td><td width=\"176\">Up to $6000</td><td width=\"174\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"220\">Heat Pump Water Heater</td><td width=\"176\">$750</td><td width=\"174\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"220\">AC &amp; Heat Pump - Residential Property Developers &amp; Managers</td><td width=\"176\">$25,000 per year</td><td width=\"174\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"220\">Solar PV</td><td width=\"176\">$3,125 cap per customer</td><td width=\"174\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"220\">LED credit (up to 50 bulbs)</td><td width=\"176\">$3 max purchase price</td><td width=\"174\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"220\">Ground Sourced Heat Pumps</td><td width=\"176\">Up to $7500</td><td width=\"174\">Up to $7,500</td></tr><tr><td width=\"220\">Commercial Energy Assessment</td><td width=\"176\"> </td><td width=\"174\">50%</td></tr><tr><td width=\"220\">HVAC and HP equipment (through Mass Save\'s Upstream HVAC/HP Program)</td><td width=\"176\"> </td><td width=\"174\">Discounted pricing</td></tr></tbody></table>		\n			<h4>Energy Saving Rebates and Programs</h4>		\n												ENERGY STAR® APPLIANCE REBATES					\n					<p>CMLP offers an <a href=\"https://www.concordma.gov/DocumentCenter/View/13587/Energy-Star-Appliances-Rebate-Application-4-9-18?bidId=\">Energy Star Appliance Rebate</a> for two types of appliances &#8211; Refrigerators &amp; Clothes Washing Machines</p>\n												HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>A free, on-site home energy assessment will identify the sources of energy waste driving up your heating and electricity bills. CMLP&#8217;s energy auditor, Energy New England, will examine your home&#8217;s heating system, lighting, and weatherization needs. New in 2017: All of your incandescent bulbs will be replaced with LEDs for free by the auditor, plus you will receive a free smart power strip. Call <b>888-772-4242</b> to schedule your appointment now.</p><p>The Energy Hotline &#8211; Ever wish there were an objective, knowledgeable, and free source of advice at the other end of a phone line when you have a question about making your home or your habits more energy efficient? Energy New England&#8217;s technical advisors are available to respond by phone to specific questions you&#8217;re grappling with as you change your energy consumption habits and carry out your energy efficient projects in your home. Call <b>888-772-4242</b>. Energy New England provides a variety of services to municipal electric utilities. They do not sell products or services directly to consumers.</p><p>For CMLP residential customers who heat with natural gas, the Mass Save Program offers you:</p><ol><li>Home energy assessments, weatherization rebates, and pre-qualified contractors who can complete the weatherization work that you need;</li><li>Advice on upgrading to a more efficient heating system, along with financial incentives for doing so.</li></ol><p>Visit the Mass Save Program or call <b>1-800-632-8300</b> for more information.</p>\n												WEATHERIZATION REBATES					\n					<p>If electricity, oil, propane, or wood is your primary source of heat, CMLP or the Town provides a rebate of 50% of the cost of eligible weatherization measures, up to $1,000. For more information view the <a href=\"http://concordma.gov/DocumentCenter/View/14373/Weatherization-Rebate-Application-5-18-18?bidId=\"><u>Weatherization Rebate Application</u>.</a></p><p>Natural gas-heating households may be eligible for weatherization rebates through Mass Save. Visit the <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.masssave.com/\"><u>Mass Save Home Energy Services Program</u></a>, or call <b style=\"font-size: 16px;\">1-800-632-8300</b> for more information.</p>\n												LED BULB REBATES					\n					<p>CMLP encourages the use of energy efficient products and offers rebates for light-emitting diode (LED) light bulbs. Residential customers may receive rebates for up to 50 bulbs per year. Don&#8217;t forget to recycle all your used bulbs (incandescent, fluorescent, and LED) at the Concord Public Works Department (please call <b>978-318-3240</b> first). To learn more view the <a href=\"http://concordma.gov/DocumentCenter/View/13586/LED-Bulb-Rebate-Application-4-9-18\"><u>LED Bulb Rebate Application</u></a>.</p>\n												SOLAR PV REBATES					\n					<p>For Solar Photovoltaic (PV) installations, CMLP offers a <a href=\"http://concordma.gov/DocumentCenter/View/13588/Solar-PV-Rebate-Application-4-10-18?bidId=\"><u>Solar Photovoltaic Rebate</u></a> of $625 per kW AC of installed, capacity, capped at $3,125. The following forms will need to be signed and forwarded to CMLP with the rebate application:</p><p><b>For Residential Solar PV installations:</b></p><p><a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://concordma.gov/DocumentCenter/View/13642/Solar-PV-Rebate---Terms-and-Conditions-5-8-17?bidId=\"><u>Rebate Terms and Conditions</u></a><br /><a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.concordma.gov/DocumentCenter/View/10906\"><u>Residential Interconnection Application</u></a><br /><a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://concordma.gov/DocumentCenter/View/13641/Net-Metering-Policy-Acknowledgement-2017---Final?bidId=\"><u>Residential Net Metering Policy Acknowledgement</u></a></p><p><b>Documents required for Residential Solar PV Panel Installation Approval Request:</b></p><ol><li>Residential Interconnection Application</li><li>Residential Interconnection Application Signature Page</li><li>Interconnection Service Agreement</li><li>CMLP Solar PV Rebate Application (if requesting rebate)</li><li>CMLP Solar PV Rebate Terms &amp; Conditions (If requesting rebate)</li><li>Residential Net Metering Policy Acknowledgement</li><li>Copy of portions of Contract Between Resident &amp; System Installer (if requesting rebate) showing: installer contact information, system size, cost &amp; signatures</li><li>Wiring diagram</li><li>Specification Sheets for All Equipment (i.e. Solar PV Panels &amp; Inverters)</li></ol><p>Please return documentation to: <a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\"><u>solutions@ene.org</u></a> OR</p><p><b>Concord Rebates</b><br />c/o Energy New  England<br />100 Foxborough Blvd. Suite 110<br />Foxboro MA 02035</p><p>For questions, please contact: <br /><b>Concord Municipal Light Plant</b><br />PO Box 1029<br />1175 Elm Street<br />Concord MA 01742<br />ATTN: Pamela Cady &#8211; <a href=\"mailto:pcady@concordma.gov\"><u>pcady@concordma.gov</u></a><br />(978) 318-3149</p><p><strong>Net Metering Rate </strong><br />For further information on CMLP&#8217;s residential net metering rate, please review the <a href=\"http://www.concordma.gov/DocumentCenter/View/3163\"><u>Residential Net Metering with Banking Rate Schedule</u></a>. For further information on CMLP&#8217;s commercial net metering rate, review the <a href=\"http://www.concordma.gov/DocumentCenter/View/13235\"><u>General Service Net Metering Rate Schedule</u></a>.</p><p><strong>Solar Net Metering Credit</strong><br />The <a href=\"http://www.concordma.gov/536/Solar-Net-Metering-Credit\"><u>Solar Net Metering Credit</u></a> for energy generated that exceeds a customer&#8217;s purchases from CMLP is a variable amount as described in the Residential Net Metering with Banking rate. The net metering credit is based on the average Day Ahead Independent System Operation-New England (ISO-NE) price for all hours in the month prior to the current billing month between 9 a.m. &#8211; 4 p.m. </p>\n												HEAT PUMP REBATES					\n					<p><b>Air-Source Heat Pumps</b><br />Residential customers who install new air-source heat pumps are eligible for <a href=\"http://www.concordma.gov/1873/Air-Source-Heat-Pump-Rebates\" target=\"_self\"><u>Air-Source Heat Pump Rebates</u></a> of up to $6,000 per household.  If you have a conventional electric resistance or propane-fueled heating system, you can save up to 70% on energy costs by heating with an air-source heat pump instead.</p><p><b>Ground-Source Heat Pumps</b><br />Both residential and commercial customers who install a new ground-source heat pump are eligible for <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.concordma.gov/1975/Ground-Source-Heat-Pumps\" target=\"_self\"><u>Ground-Source Heat Pump Rebates</u></a> of up to $7,500.  This technology can save up to 75% on heating compared to conventional electric resistance or propane-fueled systems.</p><p><b>Heat Pump Water Heaters<br /></b>Concord residents who install a new Heat Pump Water Heater (HPWH, also called a Hybrid Water Heater) are eligible for <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://concordma.gov/DocumentCenter/View/13833/HPWH-Rebate-Application-4-20-18?bidId=\" target=\"_self\"><u>Heat Pump Water Heater Rebates</u></a> ranging from $185 to $750 depending on the type of water heater being replaced.</p><p><a id=\"_anchor_1\" href=\"#_msocom_1\" name=\"_msoanchor_1\"></a></p>\n												PROGRAMMABLE THERMOSTAT & CLOTHESLINE/DRY RACK REBATES					\n					<p><b>Retrofit Program</b><br />The Retrofit Program makes it easy and affordable to replace aging and inefficient lighting with energy efficient equipment. View <a href=\"http://concordma.gov/2003/Commercial-Lighting-Rebates---HELP\"><u>HELP</u></a> for additional details on light incentives (indoor and outdoor lighting and controls are eligible). Make sure to take advantage of CMLP rebates and the option of using pre-qualified lighting contractors. For a program overview, view the High Efficiency Lighting Program Brochure.</p><p><b>New Construction and Major Renovations</b><br />Take advantage of rebates when you install lighting that uses even less power per square foot than the code-mandated Lighting Power Density in new buildings or build-outs of existing space. View <a href=\"http://concordma.gov/2003/Commercial-Lighting-Rebates---HELP\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Commercial Lighting New Construction</u></a> for more information.</p>\n												HIGH EFFICIENCY LIGHTING PROGRAM (HELP)					\n					<p><strong>Retrofit Program</strong><br />The Retrofit Program makes it easy and affordable to replace aging, inefficient lighting with energy efficient equipment. View the <a href=\"http://www.concordma.gov/869/Commercial-Lighting\">Commercial Lighting page</a> for additional details on light incentives. Indoor and outdoor lighting and controls are eligible. Take advantage of our rebates and the option of using our pre-qualified lighting contractors. For a quick program overview, view the <a href=\"http://www.concordma.gov/DocumentCenter/View/3169\">High Efficiency Lighting Program brochure (PDF)</a>.</p><p><strong>New Construction and Major Renovations</strong><br />Take advantage of rebates when you install lighting that uses even less power per square foot than the code-mandated Lighting Power Density in new buildings or build-outs of existing space.Learn more from the <a href=\"http://www.concordma.gov/870/Commercial-Lighting-New-Construction\">Commercial Lighting New Construction page</a>.</p>\n												BRIGHT OPPORTUNITIES PROGRAM					\n					<p>Concord businesses are eligible for discounted pricing on LED lamps, reduced wattage fluorescent lamps and select types of LED fixtures through Mass Save&#8217;s Bright Opportunities Program. Just purchase approved lighting from a participating distributor. Visit the <a href=\"http://www.masssave.com/en/professionals/incentives/upstream-lighting\">Bright Opportunities Program website</a> for details regarding approved lighting, incentive levels and participating distributors. <br /><br />You may purchase discounted lighting through the Bright Opportunities Program and request a rebate for that same lighting through CMLP&#8217;s High Efficiency Lighting Program.</p>\n												HEATING, VENTILATION, AIR CONDITIONING (HVAC) AND HEAT PUMP (HP) PROGRAM					\n					<p>Concord businesses are eligible for discounted pricing on high efficiency HVAC/HP equipment through Mass Save&#8217;s Upstream HVAC/HP Program. This program pays incentives directly to equipment distributors to buy down the cost of equipment at point of sale. As a result, you can purchase high efficiency equipment that is priced competitively with standard efficiency equipment.</p>\n												COMMERCIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>CMLP covers 50% of the cost of a full-scale energy assessment with our energy assessment provider, Energy New England. Please call <b>978-318-3149</b> for details.</p>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Concord Municipal Light Plant (CMLP)','','inherit','closed','closed','','328-revision-v1','','','2018-07-10 20:46:15','2018-07-10 20:46:15','',328,'http://ee.ene.org/328-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1954,2,'2018-07-10 20:48:50','2018-07-10 20:48:50','<h2>Hudson Light & Power Department</h2>		\n			<h5>SERVING THE TOWN OF HUDSON, STOW, BERLIN, BOLTON, AND MARLBOROUGH</h5>		\n		<p>Hudson Light and Power Department (HLPD) is a not-for-profit municipal electric utility serving Hudson, Stow, and parts of surrounding communities. HLPD is proud of its reputation for providing high quality service at the most economical price possible. HLPD’s motto - \"We\'re here to serve you!\" - describes how it conducts business every day.</p>		\n			<a href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/\" role=\"button\">\n						VISIT HLPD\'S WEBSITE\n					</a>\n										<img width=\"200\" height=\"200\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/hudson2.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/hudson2.png 200w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/hudson2-150x150.png 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 200px) 100vw, 200px\" />											\n			<h3>Rebates</h3>		\n		<table width=\"630\"><tbody><tr><td width=\"219\"><b>INCENTIVE OFFERINGS</b></td><td width=\"189\"><b>RESIDENTIAL</b></td><td width=\"222\"><b>COMMERCIAL</b></td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Home Energy Assessment</td><td width=\"189\">Free</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Air Purifier*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Room Air Conditioner*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric Clothes Dryer*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Clothes Washer*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Dehumidifier*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Dishwasher*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Freezer*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Refrigerator*</td><td width=\"189\">10% up to $50</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Residential Online Lighting Store</td><td width=\"189\">✓</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Central A/C</td><td width=\"189\">50% up to $500 ($500 max per year)</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Ductless Electric Heat Pumps</td><td width=\"189\">$500 max</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric/Air Source/Geo-Thermal Pumps</td><td width=\"189\">$500 max</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric Car Battery Charger Rebate*</td><td width=\"189\">50% up to $250</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Solar - Range 1 Panel Orientation</td><td width=\"189\">$1.00/W - $5,000 max</td><td width=\"222\">$1.00/W - $5,000 max</td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Solar - Range 2 Panel Orientation</td><td width=\"189\">$1.25/W - $6,000 max</td><td width=\"222\">$1.25/W - $6,000 max</td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Electric Heat Pump Water Heater**</td><td width=\"189\">50% up to $750</td><td width=\"222\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Commercial Energy Assessment</td><td width=\"189\"> </td><td width=\"222\">50%</td></tr><tr><td width=\"219\">Energy Efficiency Rebate</td><td width=\"189\"> </td><td width=\"222\">50% of total improvement cost, max varies by customer grouping</td></tr></tbody></table><p><i>*$250 max per customer per calendar year<br />**$750 max per customer per calendar year</i></p>		\n			<h4>Energy Saving Rebates and Programs</h4>		\n												ENERGY STAR® APPLIANCE REBATES					\n					<p>Residents who purchase an ENERGY STAR clothes washer, electric clothes dryer, dish washer, refrigerator, freezer, dehumidifier, room air conditioner, or air purifier may apply for the <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_Residential_Appliance_Rebate%20Program.pdf\"><u>ENERGY STAR Appliance Rebate</u>.</a></p>\n												HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Energy New England (ENE) provides conservation services for the residential customers of its partnering utilities. ENE’s highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">Home Energy Assessment</u></a> or <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/danvers-electric-division-ded/?elementor-preview=1305&amp;ver=1529971295#\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">SIGNUP</u></a> today.<br />For more information on how ENE can help you, please call 508-698-1208 or email <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">solutions@ene.org</u></a>.</p>\n												ONLINE LIGHTING STORE					\n					<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">HLPD has partnered with the Energy Federation to bring residential customers discounted CFL and LED bulbs. Visit HLPD’s <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.energyfederation.org/hudson/\"><u>Online Store</u></a> for further information.</p>\n												HEAT PUMP WATER HEATER REBATE					\n					<p>Residents who purchase and install a qualified ENERGY STAR electric fuel source heat pump water heater may apply for a <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_Residential_Heat_Pump_Water_%20Heater_Rebate.pdf\"><u>Rebate Credit</u></a> of up to $750.  </p><p>For further information on ENERGY STAR certified electric fuel source heat pump water heaters visit <a href=\"https://www.energystar.gov/productfinder/product/certified-water-heaters\"><u>ENERGY STAR</u></a>.</p><p>Filter for the following:</p><p>&#8220;Fuel Source&#8221; = Electric       &#8220;Type&#8221; = Heat Pump</p><p>Look for pumps with a Uniformed Energy Factor of 2.3 or greater.</p>\n												ELECTRIC CAR BATTERY CHARGER REBATE					\n					<p>Residents who purchase an ENERGY STAR qualified electric car battery charger may apply for a <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_Residential_Electric_Car_Charger_Rebate_Program.pdf\"><u>Rebate Credit</u></a> of up to $250.</p>\n												PHOTOVOLTAIC (PV) INCENTIVE PROGRAM					\n					<p>For photovoltaic (PV) installations, HLPD offers a rebate of $1 or $1.25 per watt of installed capacity depending upon orientation. For further information, please see the <a href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_PV_Rebate.pdf\"><u>Terms and Conditions within the PV Incentive Program Application</u></a> and <a href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/DG_Installation_Requirements.pdf\"><u>Distributed General Installation Requirements</u></a>.</p><p>HLPD purchases excess generation from customers with Distributed Generation (DG), such as solar, wind turbines, etc., at a tariff based upon the monthly <a href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/Rates.pdf\"><u>Power Adjustment Charge</u></a>.  </p>\n												COMMERCIAL AND INDUSTRIAL ENERGY EFFICIENCY REBATES					\n					<p>HLPD offers business and municipal customers financial incentives to replace inefficient lighting and to update across-the-line starters with variable-frequency drives on existing motors. For further information, please see the <a href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD%20Commercial%20Energy%20Efficiency%20Rebate%20Program.pdf\"><u>Commercial &amp; Industrial Energy Efficiency Rebate Application</u></a>.</p>\n												COMMERCIAL AND INDUSTRIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENTS					\n					<p>Business and municipal customers interested in improving their energy efficiency can contact Energy New England (ENE) at <b>888-772-4242</b> to schedule an <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.hudsonlight.com/Library/HLPD_Commercial_Energy_Audit.pdf\"><u>Energy or Lighting Assessment</u></a>. The assessment will be partially subsidized by HLPD.</p>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Hudson Light & Power Department (HLPD)','','inherit','closed','closed','','1382-revision-v1','','','2018-07-10 20:48:50','2018-07-10 20:48:50','',1382,'http://ee.ene.org/1382-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1956,2,'2018-07-10 20:59:07','2018-07-10 20:59:07','<h2>Mansfield Municipal Electric Department</h2>		\n			<h5>SERVING THE TOWN OF MANSFIELD</h5>		\n		Mansfield Municipal Electric Department’s (MMED) mission for over a century has been to deliver reliable, affordable, and safe public power to its ratepayers while maintaining a tradition of dependable service town wide.		\n			<a href=\"https://www.mansfieldelectric.com/\" role=\"button\">\n						VISIT MMED\'S WEBSITE\n					</a>\n										<img width=\"200\" height=\"200\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/MansfieldLogo2.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/MansfieldLogo2.png 200w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/MansfieldLogo2-150x150.png 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 200px) 100vw, 200px\" />											\n			<h3>Rebates</h3>		\n		<table width=\"582\">\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"192\"><strong>INCENTIVE OFFERINGS</strong></td>\n<td width=\"210\"><strong>RESIDENTIAL</strong></td>\n<td width=\"180\"><strong>COMMERCIAL</strong></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"192\">Home Energy Assessment</td>\n<td width=\"210\">Free</td>\n<td width=\"180\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"192\">Refrigerators</td>\n<td width=\"210\">$100</td>\n<td width=\"180\">&nbsp;</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"192\">Dehumidifiers</td>\n<td width=\"210\">$50</td>\n<td width=\"180\">&nbsp;</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"192\">Dishwashers</td>\n<td width=\"210\">$75</td>\n<td width=\"180\">&nbsp;</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"192\">Electric Clothes Dryers</td>\n<td width=\"210\">$100</td>\n<td width=\"180\">&nbsp;</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"192\">Clothes Washing Machines</td>\n<td width=\"210\">$100</td>\n<td width=\"180\">&nbsp;</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"192\">Unit AC</td>\n<td width=\"210\">$50</td>\n<td width=\"180\">&nbsp;</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"192\">Central Air Conditioners</td>\n<td width=\"210\">$100</td>\n<td width=\"180\">&nbsp;</td>\n</tr>\n</tbody>\n</table>		\n			<h4>Energy Saving Rebates and Programs</h4>		\n												ENERGY STAR® APPLIANCE REBATE INCENTIVE					\n					MMED is pleased to offer rebates to customers purchasing selected energy efficient ENERGY STAR central air conditioners, refrigerators, clothes washing machines, clothes dryers, dishwashers, dehumidifiers, and window air conditioners. ENERGY STAR appliances have been defined by the Department of Energy (DOE) as being significantly more energy efficient than the average comparable model. The advantages of purchasing ENERGY STAR appliances include:\n<ul>\n 	<li>Potential savings in energy costs between 15 and 50%</li>\n 	<li>Reduction of global energy consumption and need for additional generation</li>\n 	<li>Decrease in pollution from fossil fuels used to generate electricity</li>\n</ul>\nThis offer is available for a limited time only. ENERGY STAR appliances must be purchased between the dates of January 1, 2018 and December 31, 2020 in order to qualify for a rebate. Please see complete Rebate Eligibility Requirements contained in the <a href=\"https://www.mansfieldelectric.com/files/documents/mainarticles/EnergyStarRebateApp2018.pdf\"><u>Application Brochure</u></a>.\n												HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>MMED customers can call Energy New England (ENE) at <b>888-772-4242</b> to make an appointment for a free Home Energy Assessment. During the assessment, a professional energy advisor will visit your home and perform a complete analysis of its energy use. You’ll get a written report you can keep that includes recommended measures, estimated payback periods, and other information to help you choose the best ways to make your home more energy efficient</p><p>Call <b style=\"font-size: 16px;\">888-772-4242</b> to schedule your <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Home Energy Assessment</u></a> or <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/danvers-electric-division-ded/?elementor-preview=1305&amp;ver=1529971295#\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>SIGNUP</u></a> today.<br />For more information on how ENE can help you, please call <b>508-698-1208</b> or email <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>solutions@ene.org</u></a>.</p>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Mansfield Municipal Electric Department (MMED)','','inherit','closed','closed','','1395-revision-v1','','','2018-07-10 20:59:07','2018-07-10 20:59:07','',1395,'http://ee.ene.org/1395-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1957,2,'2018-07-10 21:01:53','2018-07-10 21:01:53','<p><i>*Must be disposed of<br />**Suspended to date</i></p>','Footnote','','inherit','closed','closed','','668-revision-v1','','','2018-07-10 21:01:53','2018-07-10 21:01:53','',668,'http://ee.ene.org/668-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1958,2,'2018-07-10 21:01:53','2018-07-10 21:01:53','<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>','footer - website','','inherit','closed','closed','','1056-revision-v1','','','2018-07-10 21:01:53','2018-07-10 21:01:53','',1056,'http://ee.ene.org/1056-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1959,2,'2018-07-10 21:01:53','2018-07-10 21:01:53','<h2>Middleborough Gas & Electric Department</h2>		\n			<h5>SERVING THE TOWN OF MIDDLEBOROUGH AND LAKEVILLE</h5>		\n		<p>Middleborough Gas &amp; Electric Department (MGED) has been providing electric and natural gas services for more than 120 years in Middleborough and neighboring Lakeville. As a publicly-owned utility, MGED focuses on serving its community by keeping costs low and keeping service safe, local, and reliable.</p>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.mged.com/ \" role=\"button\">\n						VISIT MGED\'S WEBSITE\n					</a>\n										<img width=\"200\" height=\"200\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/middleborough-logo.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/middleborough-logo.png 200w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/middleborough-logo-150x150.png 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 200px) 100vw, 200px\" />											\n			<h3>Rebates</h3>		\n		<table width=\"568\"><tbody><tr><td width=\"209\"><strong>INCENTIVE OFFERINGS</strong></td><td width=\"177\"><strong>RESIDENTIAL</strong></td><td width=\"181\"><strong>COMMERCIAL</strong></td></tr><tr><td width=\"209\">Home Energy Assessment</td><td width=\"177\">Free</td><td width=\"181\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"209\">Refrigerator*</td><td width=\"177\">$100</td><td width=\"181\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"209\">Clothes Dryer</td><td width=\"177\">$50</td><td width=\"181\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"209\">Clothes Washer</td><td width=\"177\">$100</td><td width=\"181\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"209\">Water Heater</td><td width=\"177\">$100</td><td width=\"181\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"209\">Room Air Conditioner</td><td width=\"177\">$40</td><td width=\"181\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"209\">Programmable Only Thermostat</td><td width=\"177\">$25</td><td width=\"181\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"209\">Wi-Fi Enabled Thermostat</td><td width=\"177\">$50</td><td width=\"181\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"209\">Dehumidifier</td><td width=\"177\">$30</td><td width=\"181\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"209\">Insulation</td><td width=\"177\">50% up to $1,000</td><td width=\"181\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"209\">Air Sealing</td><td width=\"177\">50% up to $500</td><td width=\"181\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"209\">Heating System Pipe and Duct Insulation</td><td width=\"177\">50% up to $500</td><td width=\"181\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"209\">Solar Community</td><td width=\"177\">✓</td><td width=\"181\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"209\">Net-Metering (Solar)</td><td width=\"177\">✓</td><td width=\"181\">% buyback of power generated at market costs as a billing credit for systems sized over 10 kilowatts (DC)</td></tr><tr><td width=\"209\">Commercial Energy Assessment</td><td width=\"177\"> </td><td width=\"181\">Free</td></tr><tr><td width=\"209\">Commercial Lighting Assessment</td><td width=\"177\"> </td><td width=\"181\">Free</td></tr><tr><td width=\"209\">Commercial Lighting Rebates**</td><td width=\"177\"> </td><td width=\"181\">Up to 50% of installed costs, max varies depending on customer class</td></tr></tbody></table><p><i>*Must be disposed of<br />**Suspended to date</i></p>		\n			<h4>Energy Saving Rebates and Programs</h4>		\n												ENERGY STAR® APPLIANCE REBATES					\n					<p>MGED is pleased to offer rebates to customers purchasing selected energy efficient ENERGY STAR appliances. ENERGY STAR appliances have been identified as being significantly more energy efficient than the average comparable model.</p><ul><li><a href=\"https://www.mged.com/sites/mge/files/uploads/refrigeratorrebateformfill.pdf\"><u>Refrigerator Appliance Rebate</u></a></li><li><a href=\"https://www.mged.com/sites/mge/files/uploads/laundryrebateformfill_0.pdf\"><u>Laundry Appliance Rebate</u></a> (Clothes Washer, Clothes Dryer)</li><li><a href=\"https://www.mged.com/sites/mge/files/uploads/heatingcoolingrebateformfill.pdf\"><u>Heating/Cooling Device Rebates</u></a> (Water Heater, Room AC, Dehumidifier, Programmable Only Thermostat, Wi-Fi Enabled Thermostat)</li></ul>\n												HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>Energy New England (ENE) provides conservation services for the residential customers of its partnering utilities. ENE’s highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.</p><p>Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your <a style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Home Energy Assessment</u></a> or <a style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/danvers-electric-division-ded/?elementor-preview=1305&amp;ver=1529971295#\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>SIGNUP</u></a> today.<br />For more information on how ENE can help you, please call 508-698-1208 or email <a style=\"font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">solutions@ene.org</u></a>.</p>\n												WEATHERIZATION REBATES					\n					<p>MGED is pleased to assist customers making energy efficiency improvements to their home. Learn what measures make sense for your home by calling Energy New England (ENE) at <b style=\"font-size: 16px;\">888‐772‐4242</b>. Schedule a free Home Energy Assessment, and after it’s done you’ll be provided with a list of energy saving recommendations. Complete any of the qualifying recommendations, and you’ll receive a bill credit for half of the cost. The credit is up to $500 for most measures and up to $1,000 for insulation! To be eligible for the <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://www.mged.com/sites/mge/files/uploads/weatherizationrebateformfill.pdf\"><u>MGED Weatherization Rebates</u></a> incentive:</p><ul><li>All qualifying measures must be recommended by a recent MGED/ENE Energy Assessment before installation.</li><li>Work must be started and completed between Jan. 1 and Dec. 31, 2018 for this rebate cycle. Work completed in the following year will be eligible for that year’s rebate offering if available.</li><li><strong>Qualifying measures</strong> must be listed on the assessment report and include:<ul><li>Insulation (attic, ventilation, wall, basement, and rim joist)</li><li>Air sealing measures (caulking, weatherstripping, gaskets, etc.)</li><li>Heating system pipe and duct insulation</li></ul></li><li>Work can be done by the homeowner, a contractor, or a combination of the two. Where applicable, the contractor must be licensed for the work performed.</li><li>The rebate will be a credit on your bill of up to 50% of the total job cost (including materials and labor) or $500 – whichever is less. Please allow 6-8 weeks for processing. Limit one home-efficiency rebate per customer per calendar year. Multi-family homeowners may apply per unit, up to 4 units.</li><li>Each application must include the original sales receipt, product information, and/or the final invoice from any contracted work with detailed specifications of the work performed. Proof of payment is also required.</li></ul><p>All work will be inspected by a qualified technician to verify correct installation for maximum energy savings. MGED reserves the right to have department personnel inspect installations.</p>\n												SOLAR COMMUNITY PROJECT					\n					<p>MGED&#8217;s community shared solar program, Solar Community, allows customers to support locally produced clean energy regardless of if they aren’t able or don’t want to install solar panels on their home or business. Solar Community gives MGED’s customers the opportunity to share in the benefits of a large solar system installed within MGED’s service territory. </p><p>Participating customers share in both the costs and the benefits associated with Solar Community. MGED customers enrolled in the program pay a monthly fee for costs associated with the program. Starting in the second year, participating customers are expected to begin receiving credits on their bill.</p><p>To learn more about or enroll in available programs please visit <a href=\"https://www.mged.com/smart-energy-community-projects\"><u>MGED Solar Community</u></a>.</p>\n												NET-METERING (SOLAR)					\n					<p><b>Residential<br /></b>For customers who generate their own electricity using small-scale solar energy systems known as solar arrays, net metering measures both the electricity you buy from MGED and the excess electricity you produce using your own energy system that is sent back through the department’s meter. Net metering means that MGED’s meter will record both amounts, and you will be billed for the “net” amount or the difference between what was delivered by and sent to MGED. <em style=\"font-size: 16px;\">MGED will not meter the total amount produced by your energy system, most of which will be used inside your home.</em></p><p>For example, if a customer with a 2,000 Watt solar array generates 300 kWh in July but only uses 200 kWh during those solar production hours, then 100 kWh will be sent backward through the meter to MGED lines. If that customer also uses 600 kWh from MGED (forward through the meter) in their home that month when more power was needed (i.e. in the evening), then the bill will show charges for 600 kWh and a credit for the excess 100 kWh at the wholesale energy value.</p><p>To learn more about or apply for net metering as an MGED customer, download <a href=\"https://www.mged.com/sites/mge/files/uploads/mged_guide_solarnetmeteringfinal.pdf\"><u>MGED&#8217;s Guide to Solar Generation &amp; Net Metering</u></a>.</p><p><strong>Com</strong><b>mercial<br /></b>MGED currently offers commercial customer interconnection of renewable generation systems as a 100% buyback of power generated at market costs. The buyback, in the form of a billing credit, is for systems sized over 10 kilowatts (DC).</p><p>For those customers requesting interconnection for medium-sized (10 kW &lt; 100 kW) systems, please read <a href=\"https://www.mged.com/sites/mge/files/file/file/rdg_infopack.pdf\"><u>MGED’s Guide for Renewable Distributed Generation</u></a>.</p><p>Any proposals for larger systems must be presented to MGED management in order to determine appropriate production credit. For more information, call Sandy Richter at <b>508-946-3702</b> or email <a href=\"mailto:srichter@mged.com\"><u>srichter@mged.com</u></a>.</p>\n												COMMERCIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">MGED business customers can request a walk-through, on-site evaluation of energy use, free-of-charge. This base-level technical report will help identify the highest level priority measures that should be addressed by your businesses’ energy reduction plan.</p><p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal;\">MGED incentives can and will change from year to year, but your businesses’ energy use and measures to reduce that use should be a part of your ongoing facilities management. Call MGED’s energy partner, Energy New England, at <b>888-772-4242</b> to request an energy evaluation of your business location. MGED will review the request, and ENE will call directly to schedule the evaluation.</p>\n												COMMERCIAL LIGHTING ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>Energy New England (ENE) provides conservation services for the customers of its partnering utilities. Call <b>888-772-4242</b> to schedule your Commercial Lighting Assessment today.</p><p>For more information on how ENE can help you, please call <b>508-698-1208</b> or email <a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\"><u>solutions@ene.org</u></a>.</p>\n												COMMERCIAL LIGHTING REBATES					\n					<p><b>Commercial Lighting Rebates are currently suspended due to the high number of applications already in review. New rebate offerings may be presented in 2019.</b></p>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Middleborough Gas & Electric Department (MGED)','','inherit','closed','closed','','1406-revision-v1','','','2018-07-10 21:01:53','2018-07-10 21:01:53','',1406,'http://ee.ene.org/1406-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1960,2,'2018-07-10 21:01:54','2018-07-10 21:01:54','<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>','footer - website','','inherit','closed','closed','','1056-revision-v1','','','2018-07-10 21:01:54','2018-07-10 21:01:54','',1056,'http://ee.ene.org/1056-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1961,2,'2018-07-10 21:01:54','2018-07-10 21:01:54','<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>','footer - website','','inherit','closed','closed','','1056-revision-v1','','','2018-07-10 21:01:54','2018-07-10 21:01:54','',1056,'http://ee.ene.org/1056-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1962,2,'2018-07-10 21:03:13','2018-07-10 21:03:13','<h2>Middleton Electric Light Department</h2>		\n			<h5>SERVING THE TOWN OF MIDDLETON</h5>		\n		<p>The mission of the Middleton Electric Light Department (MELD) is to provide its ratepayers, subject to applicable laws and regulations, with reliable and efficient electrical power at a fair, reasonable, and competitive rate while maintaining a safe working environment for MELD employees and the Town of Middleton.</p>		\n			<a href=\"http://www.middletonlight.org/index.html\" role=\"button\">\n						VISIT MELD\'S WEBSITE\n					</a>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/middleton-nr8ph4t1g2475fli9co5x51z2j31kttve91i65pye4.png\" title=\"middleton\" alt=\"middleton\" />											\n			<h3>Rebates</h3>		\n		<table width=\"594\"><tbody><tr><td width=\"210\"><p><strong>INCENTIVE OFFERINGS</strong></p></td><td width=\"222\"><p><strong>RESIDENTIAL</strong></p></td><td width=\"162\"><p><strong>COMMERCIAL</strong></p></td></tr><tr><td width=\"210\"><p>Home Energy Assessment</p></td><td width=\"222\"><p>Free</p></td><td width=\"162\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"210\"><p>Community Solar</p></td><td width=\"222\"><p>✓</p></td><td width=\"162\"><p>✓</p></td></tr></tbody></table>		\n			<h4>Energy Saving Rebates and Programs</h4>		\n												HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>Energy New England (ENE) provides conservation services for the residential customers of its partnering utilities. ENE’s highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.</p><p>Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your <a style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">Home Energy Assessment</u></a> or <a style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/danvers-electric-division-ded/?elementor-preview=1305&amp;ver=1529971295#\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">SIGNUP</u></a> today.<br />For more information on how ENE can help you, please call 508-698-1208 or email <a style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">solutions@ene.org</u></a>.</p>\n												COMMUNITY SOLAR					\n					<p>MELD is partnering with an innovative, large-scale developer to build a utility scale solar generation facility in Middleton. MELD is offering the solar project’s generation to its customers who opt-in to the program.</p><p>There is no cost to you. All you need to do is simply sign up using one of the enrollment forms.</p><p>All of MELD’s customers are potentially eligible to participate until the portfolio is fully subscribed to. Please join other members of your community, and make your Community Solar Project a success by enrolling quickly.</p><ul><li>Support a solar project locatedin your community.</li><li>Have a positive impacton the environment.</li><li>Receive an annual bill credit to reduce your electric energy costs.</li><li>Keep overall energy rates stable.</li><li>Participate in a solar project that is free and easy.</li><li>Assist social/community groupsof your choice.</li></ul><p><b>RESIDENTIAL DETAILS &amp; ENROLLMENT FORM<br /></b>In addition to all of the great benefits of this project, the solar developer has set aside a one-time budget to benefit a number of Middleton’s non-profit community-based organizations! By simply checking one of the boxes on your Residential Enrollment Form, MELD will contribute $5.00/election to that organization (up to the first 400 applications received). Choose which community organization you&#8217;d like to support by downloading your form now.</p><p><a href=\"http://www.middletonlight.org/docs/solar/Residential-Community-Solar-Program-Enrollment-Form-Final_1.pdf\"><u>Community Solar Residential Enrollment Form</u></a></p><p><b>COMMERCIAL DETAILS &amp; ENROLLMENT FORM<br /></b>Businesses can participate in MELD&#8217;s Community Solar Project too! Download and submit your application right away. This is a limited portfolio so act soon.</p><p><a href=\"http://www.middletonlight.org/docs/solar/Commercial-Community-Solar-Program-Enrollment-Form-Final_1.pdf\"><u>Community Solar Commercial Enrollment Form</u></a></p>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Middleton Municipal Electric Department (MMED)','','inherit','closed','closed','','1408-revision-v1','','','2018-07-10 21:03:13','2018-07-10 21:03:13','',1408,'http://ee.ene.org/1408-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1963,2,'2018-07-10 21:04:23','2018-07-10 21:04:23','<h2>North Attleborough Electric Department</h2>		\n			<h5>SERVING THE TOWN OF NORTH ATTLEBOROUGH</h5>		\n		North Attleborough Electric Department (NAED) is a public power utility owned by the people of North Attleborough that provides reliable service at economical rates through the use of teamwork, technology, and innovation. NAED is committed to safe operations and excellent customer service to the community it serves.		\n			<a href=\"http://www.naelectric.com/\" role=\"button\">\n						VISIT NAED\'S WEBSITE\n					</a>\n										<img width=\"200\" height=\"200\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/north-attleboro2.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/north-attleboro2.png 200w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/north-attleboro2-150x150.png 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 200px) 100vw, 200px\" />											\n			<h3>Rebates</h3>		\n		<table width=\"624\">\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"228\"><strong>INCENTIVE OFFERINGS</strong></td>\n<td width=\"190\"><strong>RESIDENTIAL</strong></td>\n<td width=\"206\"><strong>COMMERCIAL</strong></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"228\">Home Energy Assessment</td>\n<td width=\"190\">Free</td>\n<td width=\"206\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"228\">Clothes Dryer</td>\n<td width=\"190\">$200</td>\n<td width=\"206\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"228\">Unit AC</td>\n<td width=\"190\">$50</td>\n<td width=\"206\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"228\">Clothes Washer</td>\n<td width=\"190\">$75</td>\n<td width=\"206\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"228\">Dehumidifier</td>\n<td width=\"190\">$30</td>\n<td width=\"206\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"228\">Dishwasher</td>\n<td width=\"190\">$30</td>\n<td width=\"206\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"228\">Thermostat</td>\n<td width=\"190\">$25</td>\n<td width=\"206\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"228\">Refrigerator</td>\n<td width=\"190\">$75 or $100 with proof of disposal of old refrigerator</td>\n<td width=\"206\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"228\">LED Lightbulbs</td>\n<td width=\"190\">50% up to $100</td>\n<td width=\"206\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"228\">Home Improvement Incentive</td>\n<td width=\"190\">Total cost of project ≤ $3,000: 50% up to $300,\nTotal cost of project &gt; $3,000: $500</td>\n<td width=\"206\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"228\">Commercial Energy Assessment</td>\n<td width=\"190\"></td>\n<td width=\"206\">Free</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"228\">Post Inspection (Lighting)</td>\n<td width=\"190\"></td>\n<td width=\"206\">Free</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"228\">Power Saver Rebate Program</td>\n<td width=\"190\">&nbsp;</td>\n<td width=\"206\">Up to $2,000 per calendar year for Small General Service (Cl-6),\nUp to $5,000 per calendar year for Large General Service (Cl-7)</td>\n</tr>\n</tbody>\n</table>		\n			<h4>Energy Saving Rebates and Programs</h4>		\n												ENERGY STAR® APPLIANCE REBATES					\n					<p>NAED offers its residential customers big savings on eligible appliance purchases. NAED encourages you to purchase and become eligible for rebates on energy efficient, ENERGY STAR labeled washers, refrigerators, dishwashers, and air conditioners. When you purchase an ENERGY STAR labeled appliance you can receive rebates, reduce energy consumption, and lower your electric bill. View the <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.naelectric.com/images/2018_Appliance_rebate.pdf\"><u>Rebate Application</u></a> for more information.</p>\n												HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>Energy New England (ENE) provides conservation services for the residential customers of its partnering utilities. ENE’s highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.</p><p>Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your <a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Home Energy Assessment</u></a> or <a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/danvers-electric-division-ded/?elementor-preview=1305&amp;ver=1529971295#\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>SIGNUP</u></a> today.<br />For more information on how ENE can help you, please call 508-698-1208 or email <a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>solutions@ene.org</u></a>.</p>\n												HOME IMPROVEMENT INCENTIVE					\n					<p>NAED offers residential customers big incentives on eligible home insulation upgrades and ENERGY STAR window replacements. NAED encourages you to start saving energy in your home and become eligible for incentives by arranging for a Home Energy Assessment. For more information on the incentives offered by NAED, view the <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.naelectric.com/images/2018_Home_Improvement_Rebate.pdf\"><u>Home Improvement Incentive Application</u></a>. By taking advantage of a free Home Energy Assessment and completing an insulation or window upgrade in your home, you can receive incentives, reduce energy consumption, and lower your electric bill. The Appliance Rebate and Home Improvement Incentive Program are offered to NAED residential customers only. The programs run from January 1<sup>st</sup> through December 31<sup>st</sup> of each year or when annual funds are expended. Limit: Up to $200 in Appliance Rebates and one Home Improvement Incentive payment (up to $500) per NAED customer of record per calendar year. Applications for rebates and incentives are available to pick up at NAED or by calling <b>508-643-6300</b>. Rebate forms along with receipts can be emailed to <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"mailto:mdobson@naelectric.com\"><u>mdobson@naelectric.com</u></a>. Visit <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.energystar.gov/\"><u>ENERGY STAR</u></a> for more information on energy efficiency in your home.</p>\n												COMMERCIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>Energy New England (ENE) provides conservation services for the customers of its partnering utilities. Call <b style=\"font-size: 16px;\">888-772-4242</b> to schedule your Commercial Energy Assessment today.</p><p>For more information on how ENE can help you, please call <b>508-698-1208</b> or email <a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\"><u>solutions@ene.org</u></a>.</p>\n												COMMERCIAL LIGHTING ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>Energy New England (ENE) provides conservation services for the customers of its partnering utilities. Call <b>888-772-4242</b> to schedule your Commercial Lighting Assessment today.</p><p>For more information on how ENE can help you, please call <b>508-698-1208</b> or email <a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\"><u>solutions@ene.org</u></a>.</p>\n												POWER SAVER REBATE PROGRAM					\n					<p>NAED offers financial incentives to its commercial customers for replacing inefficient bulbs and lighting fixtures with more energy efficient models. To learn more about how Power Saver can save you money view the <a href=\"http://www.naelectric.com/images/documents/2018_Power_Saver_Light_rebate.pdf\"><u>Power Saver Fact Sheet and Application</u></a>.</p><p>By taking advantage of NAED&#8217;s Power Saver Rebate Program you&#8217;ll add value to your business or property by having better lighting, which results in improved cash flows due to lower energy costs, and reduced load on your HVAC system because less heat is produced by new lighting applications.</p>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','North Attleborough Electric Department (NAED)','','inherit','closed','closed','','1410-revision-v1','','','2018-07-10 21:04:23','2018-07-10 21:04:23','',1410,'http://ee.ene.org/1410-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1964,2,'2018-07-10 21:06:07','2018-07-10 21:06:07','<h2>Norwood Municipal Light Department</h2>		\n			<h5>SERVING THE TOWN OF NORWOOD</h5>		\n		<p>Norwood Municipal Light Department (NLD) provides electric service to over 15,000 business and residential customers in the Town of Norwood. NLD takes a great deal of pride in offering exemplary service by offering rates that are the envy of its neighbors, and oftentimes resolving outages in a fraction of the time that nearby towns experience.</p>		\n			<a href=\"http://www.norwoodlight.com/electric\" role=\"button\">\n						VISIT NMLD\'S WEBSITE\n					</a>\n										<img width=\"200\" height=\"200\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/norwood2.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/norwood2.png 200w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/norwood2-150x150.png 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 200px) 100vw, 200px\" />											\n			<h3>Rebates</h3>		\n		<table width=\"511\"><tbody><tr><td width=\"189\"><strong>INCENTIVE OFFERINGS</strong></td><td width=\"147\"><strong>RESIDENTIAL</strong></td><td width=\"175\"><strong>COMMERCIAL</strong></td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Home Energy Assessment</td><td width=\"147\">Free</td><td width=\"175\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Refrigerator</td><td width=\"147\">$100</td><td width=\"175\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Washing Machine</td><td width=\"147\">$50</td><td width=\"175\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Dishwasher</td><td width=\"147\">$50</td><td width=\"175\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Unit AC</td><td width=\"147\">$25</td><td width=\"175\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Central AC</td><td width=\"147\">$100</td><td width=\"175\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Computer*</td><td width=\"147\">$25</td><td width=\"175\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Monitor*</td><td width=\"147\">$25</td><td width=\"175\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Television*</td><td width=\"147\">$25</td><td width=\"175\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Residential Uncontrolled Electric Water Heater Program</td><td width=\"147\">$4 bill credit per month</td><td width=\"175\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Residential Controlled Electric Water Heater Program</td><td width=\"147\">Billed at lower off-peak rate</td><td width=\"175\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Commercial/Industrial Lighting Retrofit Program</td><td width=\"147\"> </td><td width=\"175\">50% up to specified limit for customer group</td></tr></tbody></table><p>*<i>Additional $25 for Norwood Light Broadband Customers</i></p>		\n			<h4>Energy Saving Rebates and Programs</h4>		\n												ENERGY STAR® APPLIANCE REBATES					\n					<p>ENERGY STAR APPLIANCE REBATE PROGRAM</p><p>NLD is pleased to offer rebates to its customers when they purchase selected energy efficient ENERGY STAR refrigerators, central air conditioners, washing machines, dishwashers, unit air conditioners, computers, monitors, or televisions. ENERGY STAR appliances have been defined by the Department of Energy (DOE) as being significantly more energy efficient than the average comparable model. If you would like an application you can pick one up at our offices located at 206 Central Street, or view the <a href=\"http://www.norwoodlight.com/sites/default/files/pdf/2010%20Incentive%20Application%20final.pdf\"><u>ENERGY STAR Appliance Rebate Application</u></a>.</p>\n												HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Energy New England (ENE) provides conservation services for the residential customers of its partnering utilities. ENE’s highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.</p><p>Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your <a style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">Home Energy Assessment</u></a> or <a style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/danvers-electric-division-ded/?elementor-preview=1305&amp;ver=1529971295#\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">SIGNUP</u></a> today.<br />For more information on how ENE can help you, please call 508-698-1208 or email <a style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">solutions@ene.org</u></a>.</p>\n												RESIDENTIAL UNCONTROLLED ELECTRIC WATER HEATER PROGRAM					\n					<p>The Residential Uncontrolled Water Heater Program is for NLD customers who have electric water heaters that are metered through their regular electric meter. These customers are able to have a switch installed on their electric hot water tank (at no cost) that allows the town to control their water heater during the town’s peak electric usage hours. The switches are installed by the NLD licensed electrician and remotely controlled by NLD at its Central Street office. Participating customers receive a credit of $4 dollars per month ($48 per year) on their electric bill. Please call the NLD billing office at <b>781-948-1150</b> if you would like to sign up for this program.</p>\n												RESIDENTIAL CONTROLLED ELECTRIC WATER HEATER PROGRAM					\n					<p>The Residential Controlled Water Heater Program is designed for customers who have a separate electric meter for their electric water heater. The electric hot water heater is now directly controlled by NLD rather than by time clocks as it previously was. This method allows NLD to shut off electric water heaters during the town&#8217;s peak demand periods. Participating customers are billed at a lower off-peak rate for allowing NLD to control their electric water heaters.  Previously, the water heaters were shut-off for a period of 4 to 6 hours per day by time clocks. Under the new system, the hot water heaters are shut-off for less time (normally 2 to 3 hours on weekdays) and only as the town approaches its peak (usually between 11 am and 4 pm). The improved system is more convenient for the customer and allows the town to have better control of its peak demand.</p><p>Over 600 meters have been replaced. The program is monitored and maintained to ensure that the water heaters are shut-off as the town approaches its peak demand.</p>\n												COMMERCIAL/INDUSTRIAL LIGHTING RETROFIT PROGRAM					\n					The Commercial/Industrial Lighting Retrofit Program is designed to help NLD’s business customers use energy efficient lighting to meet their lighting needs. The objective of this program is to help overcome the current market barriers (primarily higher cost) for the installation of energy efficient lighting technologies. Through NLD, The Town of Norwood assists businesses in determining the most effective way to accomplish the goal of this program. NLD will contribute a maximum of 50% of a project’s cost, provided the grant is less than the specified maximum amount for the group the project falls within. In other words, if the total project cost is $12,000, then NLD will grant a maximum of $6,000. If the total project cost is $50,000, then NLD’s grant will not exceed $15,000.\nNLD is pleased to continue its Commercial/Industrial Lighting Retrofit Program. By participating in this program NLD’s commercial customers will not only be reducing their own electric bills, but they will also be assisting the Town of Norwood and its Electric Department in its goals of conserving energy and saving money.\nThis program has been divided into four groups: municipal, small commercial, medium commercial, and large commercial/industrial. The Town of Norwood will contribute a percentage (maximum of 50%) of the project cost, or up to the certain specified maximum depending upon the size and grouping of the customer. The breakdown is as follows:\n<table width=\"515\">\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"72\"><strong>Group #</strong></td>\n<td width=\"153\"><strong>Group Name</strong></td>\n<td width=\"135\"><strong>Customer Size</strong></td>\n<td width=\"155\"><strong>NLD Max Contribution</strong></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"72\">Group 1</td>\n<td width=\"153\">Municipal</td>\n<td width=\"135\">All sizes</td>\n<td width=\"155\">$15,000</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"72\">Group 2</td>\n<td width=\"153\">Small Commercial</td>\n<td width=\"135\">&lt; 11 KVA</td>\n<td width=\"155\">$4,000</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"72\">Group 3</td>\n<td width=\"153\">Medium Commercial</td>\n<td width=\"135\">100 &lt; 500 KVA</td>\n<td width=\"155\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"72\">Group 4</td>\n<td width=\"153\">Large Commercial/ Industrial</td>\n<td width=\"135\">&gt; 500 KVA</td>\n<td width=\"155\">$15,000</td>\n</tr>\n</tbody>\n</table>\n<a href=\"http://www.norwoodlight.com/lighting-retrofit-application-forms\"><u>Lighting Retrofit Application Forms</u></a>\nNLD would like to see all of its business customers take advantage of this worthwhile program in order to reduce their energy demand and electric bills. However, budgetary limitations only allow a certain number of projects to be undertaken this year. Proposals will be judged according to which projects provide the greatest kilowatt reduction during peak periods per cost of the project (NLD’s contribution). Applications will be reviewed on a first-come-first-served basis. NLD will determine whether it deems a project worthwhile. Determination as to whether a project is worthwhile is final and not subject to review. All work done must be completed and inspected to qualify for this program.\nNLD hopes this program will continue for several years and would like all of its business customers to participate in it.  Many customers may be surprised to find that up to 33% of their electrical consumption is from lighting. Customers can realize substantial and ongoing savings by retrofitting existing lighting. Any further questions concerning this program can be directed to Daniel Morrissey at <b>781-948-1131</b> or <a href=\"mailto:dmorrissey@norwoodlight.com\"><u>dmorrissey@norwoodlight.com</u></a>.\n<a href=\"http://www.norwoodlight.com/lighting-retrofit-application-forms\"><u>Lighting Retrofit Application Forms</u></a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Norwood Municipal Light Department (NMLD)','','inherit','closed','closed','','1412-revision-v1','','','2018-07-10 21:06:07','2018-07-10 21:06:07','',1412,'http://ee.ene.org/1412-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1965,2,'2018-07-10 21:06:24','2018-07-10 21:06:24','<h2>Norwood Municipal Light Department</h2>		\n			<h5>SERVING THE TOWN OF NORWOOD</h5>		\n		<p>Norwood Municipal Light Department (NLD) provides electric service to over 15,000 business and residential customers in the Town of Norwood. NLD takes a great deal of pride in offering exemplary service by offering rates that are the envy of its neighbors, and oftentimes resolving outages in a fraction of the time that nearby towns experience.</p>		\n			<a href=\"http://www.norwoodlight.com/electric\" role=\"button\">\n						VISIT NMLD\'S WEBSITE\n					</a>\n										<img width=\"200\" height=\"200\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/norwood2.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/norwood2.png 200w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/norwood2-150x150.png 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 200px) 100vw, 200px\" />											\n			<h3>Rebates</h3>		\n		<table width=\"511\"><tbody><tr><td width=\"189\"><strong>INCENTIVE OFFERINGS</strong></td><td width=\"147\"><strong>RESIDENTIAL</strong></td><td width=\"175\"><strong>COMMERCIAL</strong></td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Home Energy Assessment</td><td width=\"147\">Free</td><td width=\"175\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Refrigerator</td><td width=\"147\">$100</td><td width=\"175\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Washing Machine</td><td width=\"147\">$50</td><td width=\"175\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Dishwasher</td><td width=\"147\">$50</td><td width=\"175\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Unit AC</td><td width=\"147\">$25</td><td width=\"175\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Central AC</td><td width=\"147\">$100</td><td width=\"175\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Computer*</td><td width=\"147\">$25</td><td width=\"175\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Monitor*</td><td width=\"147\">$25</td><td width=\"175\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Television*</td><td width=\"147\">$25</td><td width=\"175\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Residential Uncontrolled Electric Water Heater Program</td><td width=\"147\">$4 bill credit per month</td><td width=\"175\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Residential Controlled Electric Water Heater Program</td><td width=\"147\">Billed at lower off-peak rate</td><td width=\"175\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"189\">Commercial/Industrial Lighting Retrofit Program</td><td width=\"147\"> </td><td width=\"175\">50% up to specified limit for customer group</td></tr></tbody></table><p>*<i>Additional $25 for Norwood Light Broadband Customers</i></p>		\n			<h4>Energy Saving Rebates and Programs</h4>		\n												ENERGY STAR® APPLIANCE REBATES					\n					<p>NLD is pleased to offer rebates to its customers when they purchase selected energy efficient ENERGY STAR refrigerators, central air conditioners, washing machines, dishwashers, unit air conditioners, computers, monitors, or televisions. ENERGY STAR appliances have been defined by the Department of Energy (DOE) as being significantly more energy efficient than the average comparable model. If you would like an application you can pick one up at our offices located at 206 Central Street, or view the <a style=\"font-size: 16px; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"http://www.norwoodlight.com/sites/default/files/pdf/2010%20Incentive%20Application%20final.pdf\"><u>ENERGY STAR Appliance Rebate Application</u></a>.</p>\n												HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400;\">Energy New England (ENE) provides conservation services for the residential customers of its partnering utilities. ENE’s highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.</p><p>Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your <a style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">Home Energy Assessment</u></a> or <a style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/danvers-electric-division-ded/?elementor-preview=1305&amp;ver=1529971295#\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">SIGNUP</u></a> today.<br />For more information on how ENE can help you, please call 508-698-1208 or email <a style=\"font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-family: \'Open Sans\', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; background-color: #ffffff;\" href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u style=\"font-size: 16px;\">solutions@ene.org</u></a>.</p>\n												RESIDENTIAL UNCONTROLLED ELECTRIC WATER HEATER PROGRAM					\n					<p>The Residential Uncontrolled Water Heater Program is for NLD customers who have electric water heaters that are metered through their regular electric meter. These customers are able to have a switch installed on their electric hot water tank (at no cost) that allows the town to control their water heater during the town’s peak electric usage hours. The switches are installed by the NLD licensed electrician and remotely controlled by NLD at its Central Street office. Participating customers receive a credit of $4 dollars per month ($48 per year) on their electric bill. Please call the NLD billing office at <b>781-948-1150</b> if you would like to sign up for this program.</p>\n												RESIDENTIAL CONTROLLED ELECTRIC WATER HEATER PROGRAM					\n					<p>The Residential Controlled Water Heater Program is designed for customers who have a separate electric meter for their electric water heater. The electric hot water heater is now directly controlled by NLD rather than by time clocks as it previously was. This method allows NLD to shut off electric water heaters during the town&#8217;s peak demand periods. Participating customers are billed at a lower off-peak rate for allowing NLD to control their electric water heaters.  Previously, the water heaters were shut-off for a period of 4 to 6 hours per day by time clocks. Under the new system, the hot water heaters are shut-off for less time (normally 2 to 3 hours on weekdays) and only as the town approaches its peak (usually between 11 am and 4 pm). The improved system is more convenient for the customer and allows the town to have better control of its peak demand.</p><p>Over 600 meters have been replaced. The program is monitored and maintained to ensure that the water heaters are shut-off as the town approaches its peak demand.</p>\n												COMMERCIAL/INDUSTRIAL LIGHTING RETROFIT PROGRAM					\n					The Commercial/Industrial Lighting Retrofit Program is designed to help NLD’s business customers use energy efficient lighting to meet their lighting needs. The objective of this program is to help overcome the current market barriers (primarily higher cost) for the installation of energy efficient lighting technologies. Through NLD, The Town of Norwood assists businesses in determining the most effective way to accomplish the goal of this program. NLD will contribute a maximum of 50% of a project’s cost, provided the grant is less than the specified maximum amount for the group the project falls within. In other words, if the total project cost is $12,000, then NLD will grant a maximum of $6,000. If the total project cost is $50,000, then NLD’s grant will not exceed $15,000.\nNLD is pleased to continue its Commercial/Industrial Lighting Retrofit Program. By participating in this program NLD’s commercial customers will not only be reducing their own electric bills, but they will also be assisting the Town of Norwood and its Electric Department in its goals of conserving energy and saving money.\nThis program has been divided into four groups: municipal, small commercial, medium commercial, and large commercial/industrial. The Town of Norwood will contribute a percentage (maximum of 50%) of the project cost, or up to the certain specified maximum depending upon the size and grouping of the customer. The breakdown is as follows:\n<table width=\"515\">\n<tbody>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"72\"><strong>Group #</strong></td>\n<td width=\"153\"><strong>Group Name</strong></td>\n<td width=\"135\"><strong>Customer Size</strong></td>\n<td width=\"155\"><strong>NLD Max Contribution</strong></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"72\">Group 1</td>\n<td width=\"153\">Municipal</td>\n<td width=\"135\">All sizes</td>\n<td width=\"155\">$15,000</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"72\">Group 2</td>\n<td width=\"153\">Small Commercial</td>\n<td width=\"135\">&lt; 11 KVA</td>\n<td width=\"155\">$4,000</td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"72\">Group 3</td>\n<td width=\"153\">Medium Commercial</td>\n<td width=\"135\">100 &lt; 500 KVA</td>\n<td width=\"155\"></td>\n</tr>\n<tr>\n<td width=\"72\">Group 4</td>\n<td width=\"153\">Large Commercial/ Industrial</td>\n<td width=\"135\">&gt; 500 KVA</td>\n<td width=\"155\">$15,000</td>\n</tr>\n</tbody>\n</table>\n<a href=\"http://www.norwoodlight.com/lighting-retrofit-application-forms\"><u>Lighting Retrofit Application Forms</u></a>\nNLD would like to see all of its business customers take advantage of this worthwhile program in order to reduce their energy demand and electric bills. However, budgetary limitations only allow a certain number of projects to be undertaken this year. Proposals will be judged according to which projects provide the greatest kilowatt reduction during peak periods per cost of the project (NLD’s contribution). Applications will be reviewed on a first-come-first-served basis. NLD will determine whether it deems a project worthwhile. Determination as to whether a project is worthwhile is final and not subject to review. All work done must be completed and inspected to qualify for this program.\nNLD hopes this program will continue for several years and would like all of its business customers to participate in it.  Many customers may be surprised to find that up to 33% of their electrical consumption is from lighting. Customers can realize substantial and ongoing savings by retrofitting existing lighting. Any further questions concerning this program can be directed to Daniel Morrissey at <b>781-948-1131</b> or <a href=\"mailto:dmorrissey@norwoodlight.com\"><u>dmorrissey@norwoodlight.com</u></a>.\n<a href=\"http://www.norwoodlight.com/lighting-retrofit-application-forms\"><u>Lighting Retrofit Application Forms</u></a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Norwood Municipal Light Department (NMLD)','','inherit','closed','closed','','1412-revision-v1','','','2018-07-10 21:06:24','2018-07-10 21:06:24','',1412,'http://ee.ene.org/1412-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1966,2,'2018-07-10 21:09:17','2018-07-10 21:09:17','<h2>Taunton Municipal Lighting Plant</h2>		\n			<h5>SERVING TAUNTON, RAYNHAM, BERKLEY, AND NORTH DIGHTON</h5>		\n		<p>Taunton Municipal Lighting Plant (TMLP) has been an integral part of the City of Taunton for more than a century because it has successfully managed its customers’ investments, responded to and anticipated evolving energy needs, and remained focused on community values. TMLP’s ultimate goal is to provide information that allows its customer-owners to make informed decisions.</p>		\n			<a href=\"http://www.tmlp.com/#&amp;panel1-1\" role=\"button\">\n						VISIT TMLP\'S WEBSITE\n					</a>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/taunton2-nr8phcbqyqehqbal1fx6h35ntm1zaenq3a9e0det0c.png\" title=\"taunton2\" alt=\"taunton2\" />											\n			<h3>Rebates</h3>		\n		<table width=\"588\"><tbody><tr><td width=\"191\"><strong>INCENTIVE OFFERINGS</strong></td><td width=\"205\"><strong>RESIDENTIAL</strong></td><td width=\"192\"><strong>COMMERCIAL</strong></td></tr><tr><td width=\"191\">Energy Assessment</td><td width=\"205\">Free</td><td width=\"192\">Free initial walk-through, 50% or more of cost of investment grade audit</td></tr><tr><td width=\"191\">Unit AC</td><td width=\"205\">$25</td><td width=\"192\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"191\">Clothes Washer</td><td width=\"205\">$50</td><td width=\"192\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"191\">Dishwasher</td><td width=\"205\">$25</td><td width=\"192\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"191\">Refrigerator</td><td width=\"205\">$75</td><td width=\"192\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"191\">House N Home Thermal Program</td><td width=\"205\">50% up to $500</td><td width=\"192\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"191\">Solar Rebate Program</td><td width=\"205\">$1.50 per watt up to $4,500</td><td width=\"192\"> </td></tr><tr><td width=\"191\">Net Metering (Solar)</td><td width=\"205\">✓</td><td width=\"192\">✓</td></tr></tbody></table>		\n			<h4>Energy Saving Rebates and Programs</h4>		\n												ENERGY STAR® APPLIANCE REBATES					\n					<p>If you’re in the market for a new appliance, RMLP offers rebates of $25 to $75 on certain ENERGY STAR-rated refrigerators, dishwashers, washing machines, dehumidifiers, room air conditioners, and programmable thermostats.</p><p>Buying an ENERGY STAR appliance makes sense for three reasons—you will qualify for a rebate, save money in energy costs over the entire life of the appliance, and help the environment by decreasing pollution from fossil fuels used to generate electricity. If you buy a high-efficiency washing machine, you’ll save on water costs and help preserve water resources as well.</p><p>Before you buy a new appliance, download the Rebate Application Form or call or visit the RMLP office. The application form includes specific program requirements for the RMLP rebate.</p><p>For more details about the program, call Energy New England (ENE) at <b>1-888-772-4242</b>.</p>\n												HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>Energy New England (ENE) provides conservation services for the residential customers of its partnering utilities. ENE’s highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.</p><p>Call <b>888-772-4242</b> to schedule your <a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Home Energy Assessment</u></a> or <a href=\"#\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>SIGNUP</u></a> today.<br />For more information on how ENE can help you, please call <b>508-698-1208</b> or email <a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">solutions@ene.org</a>.</p>\n												VOLUNTARY PEAK MANAGEMENT PROGRAM					\n					<p>RMLP’s Voluntary Peak Demand Reduction Program provides RMLP industrial, commercial, and institutional customers with the opportunity to reduce costs by adjusting demand during critical peak hours. The program is 100% voluntary and can provide noteworthy cost savings.</p><p>Savings achieved by the customer action taken during peak demand hours will be calculated as actual savings realized, and will be applied as a credit to the customer’s invoice two billing periods after the called peak event. The credit typically equates to 3%-10% of the total utility bill. Load drop performance is displayed real-time and historically via the Tangent Amp web portal. No penalty is applied if no demand reductions are realized.</p><p>Please view the <a href=\"http://www.rowleylight.com/pdf/RMLP_Peak_Mgmt_Flyer.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><u>Voluntary Peak Management Program Flyer</u></a> for more information about the program and how to apply.</p>\n												COMMERCIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENT					\n					<p>Assistance for Commercial Energy Audits is available to RMLP’s commercial and industrial customers that intend to invest in energy conservation measures.</p><p>Energy Audits cover such end-uses as lighting, HVAC, and motors. The cost of an audit can vary from several hundred dollars to several thousand dollars depending on the audit type and square footage of the building.</p><p>RMLP will fund up to $300 toward the cost of an audit that is performed through the professional auditing services of Energy New England (ENE). MLP will fund up to 75% of the installed cost of recommended measures, not to exceed $1,500 per customer audit.</p><p>RMLP reserves the right to fund commercial audits on a case-by-case basis.</p><p>For more information, contact RMLP’s office or ENE at <b>1-888-772-4242</b>.</p>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Taunton Municipal Lighting Plant (TMLP)','','inherit','closed','closed','','1422-revision-v1','','','2018-07-10 21:09:17','2018-07-10 21:09:17','',1422,'http://ee.ene.org/1422-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1968,2,'2018-07-11 18:02:01','2018-07-11 18:02:01','<h2>Home Energy Assessment</h2>		\n		<p>Uncover savings by having a <strong>free</strong> assessment of your home\'s energy use.</p>		\n			<a href=\"#\" role=\"button\">\n						SIGN UP NOW\n					</a>\n		ENE provides conservation services for the residential customers of our partnering utilities. Our highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.<p>You’ll receive a report that outlines the best steps to take in order to improve your home’s energy usage along with how much each step could potentially save you on energy costs in the future. Complimentary energy saving materials, such as LED light bulbs and efficient power strips, will be provided during the course of the assessment as well.</p><p>Participating residential customers can request a Home Energy Assessment, or receive information about rebates and incentives offered by their utility by calling ENE’s energy hotline.</p>RESIDENTIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENT<p>The Energy Advisor will evaluate a broad range of energy saving opportunities in the home, including:</p>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Insulation\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Appliances\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Heating/cooling Windows and door weather-stripping \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Water heating Efficient lighting \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Window and door replacement\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h2>Preparing for Your Energy Assessment</h2>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Make a list of concerns you have about your home, such as drafty rooms, old heating equipment, or high bills.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Also, please provide 12 Months of Heating Fuel usage (Oil, Propane, Gas, Wood, etc.) information to the Energy Advisor. If you do not have fuel usage information, please make our Advisor aware of this at the time of your assessment.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										If you have pets, kindly secure them. Please ensure full access to the home with clear access to the attic and basement, and if available a stable ladder.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Should you have any questions or concerns, please call the Energy New England Hotline at: <b>888-772-4242</b> or if you prefer email, <u>solutions@ene.org</u>.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h2>Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your appointment today.​</h2>		\n		<p>For more information about how Energy New England can help you, please call <strong>508-698-1208 </strong>or email us at <strong>solutions@ene.org</strong>.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','ENERGY ASSESSMENT','','inherit','closed','closed','','14-revision-v1','','','2018-07-11 18:02:01','2018-07-11 18:02:01','',14,'http://ee.ene.org/14-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1969,2,'2018-07-11 18:05:14','2018-07-11 18:05:14','<h2>Learn to make the most of your energy investment.</h2>		\n		Schedule your home energy assessment today.		\n			<a href=\"#\" role=\"button\">\n						GET STARTED\n					</a>\n			<h2>Let us help you navigate your energy future.</h2>		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT</a></h3>		\n		Schedule a home energy assessment with one of our experienced advisors. You will  get expert advice and learn more about the energy efficiency improvements you can make to your home. Understand the common sources of energy waste in your home that have a negative impact on both the comfort of your living space and your wallet. 		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">RECOMMENDATIONS</a></h3>		\n		Want to learn more about recommendations made in your Home Energy Assessment? Your path to energy efficiency starts here. Find out what options you have and where to begin the process of making your home more efficient.		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">YOUR LOCAL UTILITY</a></h3>		\n		Energy New England is proud to provide Energy Efficiency services for 20 municipal light plants in Massachusetts and Rhode Island. Many local utilities offer rebates on Energy Star<sup>®</sup> appliances, thermostats and weatherization. Discover the incentives available meant to assist you in your energy efficiency upgrades. In addition, see if your local utility offers other savings programs that may be right for you.		\n			<h4>Our Partners</h4>		\n			<h5>Helping to ensure an energy efficient future. </h5>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','HOME','','inherit','closed','closed','','10-revision-v1','','','2018-07-11 18:05:14','2018-07-11 18:05:14','',10,'http://ee.ene.org/10-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1970,2,'2018-07-11 18:05:53','2018-07-11 18:05:53','<h2>Home Energy Assessment</h2>		\n		<p>Uncover savings by having a <strong>free</strong> assessment of your home\'s energy use.</p>		\n			<a href=\"#\" role=\"button\">\n						SIGN UP NOW\n					</a>\n		ENE provides conservation services for the residential customers of our partnering utilities. Our highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.<p>You’ll receive a report that outlines the best steps to take in order to improve your home’s energy usage along with how much each step could potentially save you on energy costs in the future. Complimentary energy saving materials, such as LED light bulbs and efficient power strips, will be provided during the course of the assessment as well.</p><p>Participating residential customers can request a Home Energy Assessment, or receive information about rebates and incentives offered by their utility by calling ENE’s energy hotline.</p>RESIDENTIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENT<p>The Energy Advisor will evaluate a broad range of energy saving opportunities in the home, including:</p>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Insulation\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Appliances\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Heating/cooling Windows and door weather-stripping \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Water heating Efficient lighting \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Window and door replacement\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h2>Preparing for Your Energy Assessment</h2>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Make a list of concerns you have about your home, such as drafty rooms, old heating equipment, or high bills.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Also, please provide 12 Months of Heating Fuel usage (Oil, Propane, Gas, Wood, etc.) information to the Energy Advisor. If you do not have fuel usage information, please make our Advisor aware of this at the time of your assessment.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										If you have pets, kindly secure them. Please ensure full access to the home with clear access to the attic and basement, and if available a stable ladder.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Should you have any questions or concerns, please call the Energy New England Hotline at: <b>888-772-4242</b> or if you prefer email, <u>solutions@ene.org</u>.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h2>Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your appointment today.​</h2>		\n		<p>For more information about how Energy New England can help you, please call <strong>508-698-1208 </strong>or email us at <strong>solutions@ene.org</strong>.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','ENERGY ASSESSMENT','','inherit','closed','closed','','14-revision-v1','','','2018-07-11 18:05:53','2018-07-11 18:05:53','',14,'http://ee.ene.org/14-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1971,2,'2018-07-11 18:06:26','2018-07-11 18:06:26','<h2>Home Energy Assessment</h2>		\n		<p>Uncover savings by having a <strong>free</strong> assessment of your home\'s energy use.</p>		\n			<a href=\"#\" role=\"button\">\n						SIGN UP NOW\n					</a>\n		ENE provides conservation services for the residential customers of our partnering utilities. Our highly trained and experienced Residential Energy Advisors can examine your home and identify heating, lighting, and weatherization opportunities to be more efficient and save money on your utility bills.<p>You’ll receive a report that outlines the best steps to take in order to improve your home’s energy usage along with how much each step could potentially save you on energy costs in the future. Complimentary energy saving materials, such as LED light bulbs and efficient power strips, will be provided during the course of the assessment as well.</p><p>Participating residential customers can request a Home Energy Assessment, or receive information about rebates and incentives offered by their utility by calling ENE’s energy hotline.</p>RESIDENTIAL ENERGY ASSESSMENT<p>The Energy Advisor will evaluate a broad range of energy saving opportunities in the home, including:</p>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Insulation\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Appliances\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										 Heating/cooling Windows and door weather-stripping \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Water heating Efficient lighting \n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Window and door replacement\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h2>Preparing for Your Energy Assessment</h2>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										Make a list of concerns you have about your home, such as drafty rooms, old heating equipment, or high bills.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Also, please provide 12 Months of Heating Fuel usage (Oil, Propane, Gas, Wood, etc.) information to the Energy Advisor. If you do not have fuel usage information, please make our Advisor aware of this at the time of your assessment.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										If you have pets, kindly secure them. Please ensure full access to the home with clear access to the attic and basement, and if available a stable ladder.\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										Should you have any questions or concerns, please call the Energy New England Hotline at: <b>888-772-4242</b> or if you prefer email, <u>solutions@ene.org</u>.\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h2>Call 888-772-4242 to schedule your appointment today.​</h2>		\n		<p>For more information about how Energy New England can help you, please call <strong>508-698-1208 </strong>or email us at <strong>solutions@ene.org</strong>.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','ENERGY ASSESSMENT','','inherit','closed','closed','','14-revision-v1','','','2018-07-11 18:06:26','2018-07-11 18:06:26','',14,'http://ee.ene.org/14-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1972,2,'2018-07-12 18:22:22','2018-07-12 18:22:22','<h2>Learn to make the most of your energy investment.</h2>		\n		Schedule your home energy assessment today.		\n			<a href=\"#\" role=\"button\">\n						GET STARTED\n					</a>\n			<h2>Let us help you navigate your energy future.</h2>		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT</a></h3>		\n		Schedule a home energy assessment with one of our experienced advisors. You will  get expert advice and learn more about the energy efficiency improvements you can make to your home. Understand the common sources of energy waste in your home that have a negative impact on both the comfort of your living space and your wallet. 		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">RECOMMENDATIONS</a></h3>		\n		Want to learn more about recommendations made in your Home Energy Assessment? Your path to energy efficiency starts here. Find out what options you have and where to begin the process of making your home more efficient.		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">YOUR LOCAL UTILITY</a></h3>		\n		Energy New England is proud to provide Energy Efficiency services for 20 municipal light plants in Massachusetts and Rhode Island. Many local utilities offer rebates on Energy Star<sup>®</sup> appliances, thermostats and weatherization. Discover the incentives available meant to assist you in your energy efficiency upgrades. In addition, see if your local utility offers other savings programs that may be right for you.		\n			<h4>Our Partners</h4>		\n			<h5>Helping to ensure an energy efficient future. </h5>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','HOME','','inherit','closed','closed','','10-revision-v1','','','2018-07-12 18:22:22','2018-07-12 18:22:22','',10,'http://ee.ene.org/10-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1975,4,'2018-07-16 19:24:10','2018-07-16 19:24:10','','Insulation','','inherit','closed','closed','','46-revision-v1','','','2018-07-16 19:24:10','2018-07-16 19:24:10','',46,'http://ee.ene.org/46-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1978,2,'2018-07-16 19:45:16','2018-07-16 19:45:16','<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>','footer - website','','inherit','closed','closed','','1056-revision-v1','','','2018-07-16 19:45:16','2018-07-16 19:45:16','',1056,'http://ee.ene.org/1056-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1979,2,'2018-07-16 19:45:18','2018-07-16 19:45:18','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>\n<p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Insulation','','inherit','closed','closed','','46-revision-v1','','','2018-07-16 19:45:18','2018-07-16 19:45:18','',46,'http://ee.ene.org/46-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1981,2,'2018-07-16 19:48:26','2018-07-16 19:48:26','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>\n<p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','Insulation','','inherit','closed','closed','','46-revision-v1','','','2018-07-16 19:48:26','2018-07-16 19:48:26','',46,'http://ee.ene.org/46-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1984,2,'2018-07-16 20:02:34','2018-07-16 20:02:34','<h2><p>Hot Water Heaters</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Maintenance and Efficiency Upgrades</a></p>\n<a href=\"#anchor02\">Replacing Hot Water Systems</a>\n			<h1>Maintenance and Efficiency Upgrades</h1>		\n		The vast majority of homes in the United States have stand-alone water heaters. These are independent hot-water storage tanks with their own heat source, with the sole function of providing domestic hot water. A home that is heated by a boiler is likely to have a tankless coil or an indirect-fired storage tank. Standard gas water heaters are cheap and inefficient. They are typically expected to last only 5 to 15 years, so most people do not invest much money in them. Replacing a water heater tends to be an emergency event, full of stress because the old water heater has suddenly failed. Proper maintenance can extend the life of a water heater, and some efficiency improvements can be made to existing tanks with minimal investment; but if you have a standard water heater made before 2005, it may make more sense to upgrade to a very high-efficiency unit and not try to make the old one last longer. If your present water heater appears to be near the end of its useful life, now is the time to do research on the right type of replacement unit. Then you will be well prepared, whether you decide to wait until the old one goes or to replace the tank at your convenience.		\n			<p>Two types of tanks: Gas and electric</p>		\n		Stand-alone water heaters come in two basic types: gas and electric. Gas water heaters, fired with piped natural or LP gas, are the most common. Gas water heaters are usually smaller than electric water heaters, because their burners produce more heat than an electric heating element. A capacity of 40 to 50 gal. is typical for most houses.\nElectric water heaters in single-family homes often hold 50 to 80 gal. Electric water heaters don’t require a fuel supply in the house, so they are a common choice for homes where piped natural gas is unavailable and where a heat pump provides the space heating.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Hot-Water_heaters_Pic1.png\" title=\"Hot-Water_heaters_Pic1\" alt=\"Hot-Water_heaters_Pic1\" />											<figcaption>Typically, gas water heaters don’t have degree markings, but the recommended target temperature of 120°F is usually between “Warm” and “Medium.” It may take some trial and error to find a setting that’s just right.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Setting the temperature</p>		\n		The temperature of many hot-water heaters can be lowered without any noticeable reduction in the hot-water supply. Lowering the temperature of stored hot water saves energy by reducing conductive heat loss through the tank surfaces, called standby loss. Standby losses depend on the location of the tank (how cold it is outside the tank), how well the tank is insulated, and where the tank is located (in a cold climate, most losses in the winter just contribute to heating the house). The better insulated the tank and the greater your hot-water use, the less savings a temperature setback will provide.\nReducing the temperature setting by 10°F may save 2 percent to 5 percent of your water heating costs. The investment is $0, and it’s easy to readjust if you turn it down too much. In addition to energy savings, a lower tank temperature reduces scaling and corrosion and increases the life of the tank. The thermostat knob on a gas water heater is usually located at the front of the gas valve. Look carefully at the markings; on many gas water heaters, counterclockwise rotation increases the temperature setting. Electric tanks have two thermostats—one for each element—located behind metal covers near the bottom and the top of the tank. Because there is exposed wiring inside, shut off the circuit breaker before unscrewing the covers. Set both elements to about the same temperature, or set the top element just slightly cooler so the bottom element activates first.\nHot water stored below 120°F may increase the risk of Legionella pneumophili bacteria, which can cause pneumonia. But Legionella infections in single-family homes are quite rare compared to the risk of scalding, which increases rapidly at tank temperatures over 120°F. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission recommends all home water heaters be set at 120°F, and even at that temperature third degree burns can occur with exposures of five minutes or more. Antiscald mixing valves can help keep children and elders, who are at higher risk for burns, safe.\n			<p>Insulating hot-water pipes</p>		\n		Hot-water pipes lose energy in two ways: through conductive losses in pipe walls while hot water is running and through thermosiphon effects.  Pipe insulation is readily available at most home centers and hardware stores and is easy to install. The biggest benefit from pipe insulation occurs within the first 10 ft. of the tank. Be sure to use the right diameter of insulation; most homes have a mixture of 1⁄2-in. and 3⁄4-in. pipes, so it’s a good idea to measure how much of each you will need.		\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Hot-Water_Heaters_Pic2.png\" title=\"Hot-Water_Heaters_Pic2\" alt=\"Hot-Water_Heaters_Pic2\" />											<figcaption>The most common pipe insulation is made from polyethylene and is widely available at hardware stores and home centers.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Maintenance\n</p>		\n		There are two basic maintenance operations that can increase a tank’s lifespan. One is to regularly flush out debris and scale, which can also improve the efficiency of your tank by improving heat transfer. Annually flushing water through the drain valve at the bottom can help wash away the crud. Don’t try to drain the tank; the force of the cold-water pressure helps stir up the material. But you might want to shut off the heater overnight before doing this, to avoid wasting gallons of hot water. Unfortunately, most drain valves that are installed at the factory don’t allow much sediment to pass through, so it’s better to replace it with a full-flow ball valve. Flushing is also more effective if the tank has a dip tube with a curve at the bottom that swirls incoming water around the base of the tank.\nThe other thing that can be done to extend the life of a water heater is to replace the anode rod periodically. The anode rod, typically made of magnesium formed around steel wire, is designed to corrode before the steel tank does. Once the magnesium material has decomposed or is covered with scale, the anode stops working and the tank will start to deteriorate. Anode rods are designed to last for about 5 years, depending, of course, on the water: typically, just a little longer than the tank’s warranty. You will probably need a heavy-duty socket wrench with a breaker bar to unthread the anode rod. Don’t try to remove it until you have a new replacement rod handy. And be very careful not to damage the tank or the water fittings when removing the rod. Replacement anode rods are available at plumbing supply houses for $20 to $40. Of course, you will need to shut off the tank and the incoming water supply, and partially empty the tank before replacing an anode rod.\n			<h1>Replacing Hot-Water Systems</h1>		\n		When it is time to buy a new hot-water heater, it makes sense to install the most efficient replacement system possible. But choosing a water heater can be confusing; there are many different styles of high-efficiency units with competing claims of superiority. Which type will work best for you depends on the type of hot water and heating systems already in your house. If you have a furnace, then you will need some type of independent, stand-alone water heater. If you have a hot-water boiler, it usually makes sense to use it for water heating, especially if the boiler is a newer, efficient model. Stand-alone, standard LP-gas, or oil-fired water heaters are the most expensive to operate; if you have one of these, or if you heat your house with electric resistance or a heat pump, you might benefit from either a super-high-efficiency condensing water heater, a heat pump water heater (HPWH; or a solar water-heating system).\n			<p>Water-heater efficiency</p>		\n		There are three basic types of replacement water heaters that work on their own (without a boiler): storage tanks, on-demand units (sometimes called tankless water heaters), and heat pump water heaters. Any of these types except the heat pump are available in either gas or electric models. Most have high-efficiency versions, and all have pros and cons. Every new water heater has an efficiency rating (called an energy\nfactor, or EF) listed with AHRI. Today’s water heaters have EFs that range from about 0.50 to 0.97 (except for heat pumps); try to get a water heater with the highest EF rating for the type of application you need.\n			<p>Tank-type water heaters</p>		\n		Most standard gas water heaters have EF ratings in the high 50s—that means over 40 percent of the energy is wasted. Until recently, the highest efficiency tank-type units you could buy were in the low 60s; most had efficient burners, electronic pilots, and high insulation levels. There is a new generation of high-efficiency tank-type water heaters emerging that have higher energy factors. For example, the KenmoreR Elite uses a special air intake and other features to achieve an EF of 0.7. Both the Kenmore and the RheemR Fury (0.67 EF) use electronic vent dampers. Although not the highest efficiency available, these products provide a sizable performance boost at a modest price increase over a standard gas water heater.\nThe most efficient units on the market are condensing gas water heaters; they typically have EF ratings of 0.90 or higher. The best ones have stainless-steel tanks and high firing rates—typically around 90,000 to 120,000 Btu per hour, two to three times that of a typical tank. Because of their high cost—roughly $1,500 to $2,500—condensing water heaters may be more appropriate for supplying whole-house heating as well as hot water. Their high heat output makes them well suited for supplying a hydro-air system. A hydro-air handler used in conjunction with a condensing gas water heater is probably one of the most efficient replacements for an old, inefficient gas furnace and a standard electric or gas water-heating tank, especially if you have piped natural gas and live in a cold or mixed climate. Standard electric tank-type water heaters appear to be more efficient than gas units, with EFs ranging from about 0.86 to 0.95. \n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Hot-Water_Heaters_Pic3.png\" title=\"Hot-Water_Heaters_Pic3\" alt=\"Hot-Water_Heaters_Pic3\" />											<figcaption>All new water heaters are required to have an Energy Guide label, which compares the energy use of this model to that of similar models. Buyers beware: “Energy Saver” is a common name found on water heaters, but it can be almost meaningless. Few water heaters have their EF rating listed on the tank, but you can look it up in the AHRI directory online.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n		The energy factor, or EF rating, is based on a standardized test that takes into account burner efficiency, pilot usage, and standby losses for “typical” hot-water usage. EF ratings for gas, oil, and electric water\nheaters can be found at www.ahridirectory.org under “residential water heaters.” The directory\nalso shows first-hour ratings and the burner efficiency, which is called “recovery efficiency.”\n			<p>Tankless water heaters</p>		\n		At the other end of the spectrum is the tankless or on-demand water heater. The premise of a tankless water heater is to save energy by eliminating the storage tank and its associated standby losses, using a large gas burner to heat water only when you need it. (Don’t confuse this with a tankless water-heating coil that’s run from a boiler; these waste far more energy by keeping the boiler hot all year.)\nOn-demand water heaters have higher EF ratings than conventional water heaters. Gas on-demand water heaters fall into two groups: those with standard gas burners and EF ratings in the low 80s, and those with condensing burners and EFs in the 90s. Savings will be lower than the EF ratings (and marketing literature) indicate, about $80 to $100 per year (assuming national average of $1.20/therm). The modest savings make it hard to recoup your investment in a reasonable time: Tankless water heaters cost between $800 and $1,500. Installation cost is also likely to be high; larger gas lines are typically needed, and in many cases new electrical service. Other advantages of tankless water heaters are their small size and their ability to provide hot water continuously, but there are some drawbacks as well. The burner starts when a hot-water tap is opened, by sensing the drop in pressure, so some cold water always flows into the heat exchanger at first. If you use hot water intermittently, or take a shower right after another family member, you may end up with surprise “slug” of cold water each time. The total flow of hot water in GPM is also limited by the burner capacity, so sizing these units is less forgiving than water heaters with some storage. Some tankless units have small storage tanks built in to reduce these troubles, or an external tank can be added.\nFinally, on-demand water heaters are sensitive to minerals—if you have hard water, the annual service that’s needed will cut into the savings. I don’t generally recommend on-demand units for most existing-tank replacements, but these heaters can make sense in a major renovation. Electric tankless heaters are also available, but they are not typically suitable for whole-house service\n			<p>Indirect-fired tank (with boiler)</p>		\n		If you heat your house with a hot-water boiler, an indirect-fired water heater can generate hot water more efficiently than a tankless coil or most stand-alone units. The storage tank contains a thermostat that requests heat from the boiler, just like a separate heating zone. To get the best efficiency from an indirect storage tank, the boiler has to have the right controls: It needs to be set up for “cold start” and should also include a purge cycle. Generally, the control should also include a 30-minute hot-water priority. This ensures that you always have hot water, even on a cold morning when the boiler is needed for space heating.\nMany indirect-fired tanks have a built-in heat exchanger. Boiler water is pumped through the heat exchanger, heating water in the tank without mixing boiler water with the potable water supply. Alternatively, almost any type of insulated storage tank can be combined with an external heat exchanger to produce hot water from a boiler. An external heat exchanger requires two circulating pumps, adding a small electrical load. But when the unit is properly sized, the heat transfer is very efficient. All piping between the boiler and the storage tank must be thoroughly insulated to minimize heat loss, including any external heat exchanger (don’t insulate pump bodies). Indirect tanks have AHRI efficiency ratings, but they don’t have EF ratings like other water heaters. This is because any boiler can provide the heat\nsource with a wide range of efficiencies. Indirect tanks are rated for “standby loss” in a range from 0.4 to over 1.0; try to aim for 0.8 or less. Smaller tanks tend to have higher losses per hour, but they are cheaper and take up less space. Look for the lowest standby loss available with a first-hour rating that suits your needs.\n			<p>Heat pump water heaters</p>		\n		The heat pump water heater is based on a great concept: Use electricity to extract heat from the air and deliver it to the hot water at a higher temperature. The heat extracted from the air is free, and theoretically the net efficiency could be 300 percent or more. Early models had trouble with reliability, service, and price, but a new generation of HPWHs has emerged that seems to offer better efficiency and reliability at a price range of about $1,300 to $2,000. HPWHs have EFs in the range of 2.0 to 2.5, which means that more than half the heat comes from the environment around the heater. There are a number of factors that affect the real installed efficiency. First, controls in most units allow for resistance heat to turn on when demand is high or surrounding air temperatures are low; this can really cut into the overall efficiency, depending on how the control is set and how you use hot water. The most efficient units have smaller electric backup heaters (less than 2,500 watts) and run the heat pump even while the resistance heat is on. Larger tanks also tend to run more efficiently than small tanks. Also, the heat comes from the air around the tank. If you live in a cold climate, that heat may not be free: If the tank is in a conditioned space, you’ve already paid to heat it up. If it’s in an unconditioned basement, the air may get cold and efficiency will suffer. At the same time, air that is exhausted from the heat pump is cool and dry, so running an HPWH in a basement may reduce dehumidification needs. Some units allow for a duct to divert the chilled air output outdoors in cold weather. Of course, in a warm climate a HPWH will help cool your house, saving even more on your electric bills. The bottom line is this: If you are looking to replace an existing electric or LP-gas water heater, consider getting a HPWH if you live in a mixed or hot climate. Average savings should be around $300 per year, so payback on the $1,000 to $1,500 increased cost is fairly reasonable. Savings may be higher where electric rates are higher than average, even in colder climates. Savings will tend to be largest when hot-water use is high.		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"160\" height=\"501\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Hot_Water_Heater_Pic4.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Hot_Water_Heater_Pic4.png 160w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Hot_Water_Heater_Pic4-96x300.png 96w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 160px) 100vw, 160px\" />											<figcaption>This “hybrid” heat pump water heater produces hot water at a savings of about 50 percent when compared to conventional electric water heaters. Alternately, some units are designed as an add-on retrofit to an existing tank.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Hot Water Heaters','','publish','closed','closed','','hot-water-heaters','','','2018-07-24 15:23:42','2018-07-24 15:23:42','',16,'http://ee.ene.org/?page_id=1984',0,'page','',0),(1985,2,'2018-07-16 20:02:34','2018-07-16 20:02:34','','Hot Water Heaters','','inherit','closed','closed','','1984-revision-v1','','','2018-07-16 20:02:34','2018-07-16 20:02:34','',1984,'http://ee.ene.org/1984-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1986,2,'2018-07-16 20:04:29','2018-07-16 20:04:29',' ','','','publish','closed','closed','','1986','','','2018-08-08 01:23:27','2018-08-08 01:23:27','',16,'http://ee.ene.org/?p=1986',8,'nav_menu_item','',0),(1987,2,'2018-07-16 20:07:21','2018-07-16 20:07:21','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>\n<p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Hot Water Heaters','','inherit','closed','closed','','1984-revision-v1','','','2018-07-16 20:07:21','2018-07-16 20:07:21','',1984,'http://ee.ene.org/1984-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1989,2,'2018-07-16 20:17:56','2018-07-16 20:17:56','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>\n<p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Insulation','','inherit','closed','closed','','46-revision-v1','','','2018-07-16 20:17:56','2018-07-16 20:17:56','',46,'http://ee.ene.org/46-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1991,2,'2018-07-16 20:46:49','2018-07-16 20:46:49','<h1>Your Local Utility</h1>		\n		<p>Learn more about your utility\'s energy saving rebates and programs.</p>		\n			<h2>List of Utilities</h2>		\n		<p>ENE has been serving communities in Massachusetts and Rhode Island since 1998. We partner with local, municipal utilities to provide energy efficiency programs and services to residential and commercial customers. Connect to your utility’s money-saving rebates and programs here.</p>		\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/belmont-municipal-light-department-bmld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Belmont Municipal Light Department \n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/braintree-electric-light-department-beld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Braintree Electric Light Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/chester-municipal-electric-department-cmeld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Chester Municipal Electric Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/concord-municipal-light-plant-cmlp/\" role=\"button\">\n						Concord Municipal Light Plant\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/danvers-electric-division-ded/\" role=\"button\">\n						Danvers Electric Division\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/georgetown-municipal-light-department-gmld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Georgetown Municipal Light Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"Groveland Municipal Electric Department\" role=\"button\">\n						Groveland Municipal Electric Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/hingham-municipal-lighting-plant-hmlp/\" role=\"button\">\n						Hingham Municipal Lighting Plant \n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/hudson-light-power-department-hlpd/\" role=\"button\">\n						Hudson Light & Power Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/hudson-municipal-light-department-hlpd/\" role=\"button\">\n						Hudson Municipal Light Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/littleton-electric-light-and-water-department-lelwd/\" role=\"button\">\n						Littleton Electric Light & Water Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/mansfield-municipal-electric-deptartment-mmed/\" role=\"button\">\n						Mansfield Municipal Electric Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/merrimac-municipal-light-department-mmld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Merrimac Municipal Light Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/middleborough-gas-electric-department-mged/\" role=\"button\">\n						Middleborough Gas & Electric Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/middleton-municipal-electric-department-mmed/\" role=\"button\">\n						Middleton Municipal Electric Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/north-attleborough-electric-department-naed/\" role=\"button\">\n						North Attleborough Electric Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/norwood-municipal-light-department-nmld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Norwood Municipal Light Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/pascoag-utility-district-pud/\" role=\"button\">\n						Pascoag Utility District\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/reading-municipal-light-department-rmld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Reading Municipal Light Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/rowley-municipal-light-plant-rmlp/\" role=\"button\">\n						Rowley Municipal Light Plant\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/taunton-municipal-lighting-plant-tmlp/\" role=\"button\">\n						Taunton Municipal Lighting Plant\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/wellesley-municipal-light-plant-wmlp/\" role=\"button\">\n						Wellesley Municipal Light Plant\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','YOUR LOCAL UTILITY','','inherit','closed','closed','','18-revision-v1','','','2018-07-16 20:46:49','2018-07-16 20:46:49','',18,'http://ee.ene.org/18-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1992,2,'2018-07-16 20:47:51','2018-07-16 20:47:51','<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>','footer - phone #s','','publish','closed','closed','','footer-phone-s','','','2018-08-28 18:23:48','2018-08-28 18:23:48','',0,'http://ee.ene.org/?elementor_library=footer-phone-s',0,'elementor_library','',0),(1993,2,'2018-07-16 20:47:52','2018-07-16 20:47:52','','footer - phone #s','','inherit','closed','closed','','1992-revision-v1','','','2018-07-16 20:47:52','2018-07-16 20:47:52','',1992,'http://ee.ene.org/1992-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1994,2,'2018-07-16 20:47:52','2018-07-16 20:47:52','<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>','footer - phone #s','','inherit','closed','closed','','1992-revision-v1','','','2018-07-16 20:47:52','2018-07-16 20:47:52','',1992,'http://ee.ene.org/1992-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(1999,2,'2018-07-16 20:49:47','2018-07-16 20:49:47','<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>','footer - phone #s','','inherit','closed','closed','','1992-revision-v1','','','2018-07-16 20:49:47','2018-07-16 20:49:47','',1992,'http://ee.ene.org/1992-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2000,2,'2018-07-16 20:49:49','2018-07-16 20:49:49','<h1>Your Local Utility</h1>		\n		<p>Learn more about your utility\'s energy saving rebates and programs.</p>		\n			<h2>List of Utilities</h2>		\n		<p>ENE has been serving communities in Massachusetts and Rhode Island since 1998. We partner with local, municipal utilities to provide energy efficiency programs and services to residential and commercial customers. Connect to your utility’s money-saving rebates and programs here.</p>		\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/belmont-municipal-light-department-bmld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Belmont Municipal Light Department \n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/braintree-electric-light-department-beld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Braintree Electric Light Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/chester-municipal-electric-department-cmeld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Chester Municipal Electric Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/concord-municipal-light-plant-cmlp/\" role=\"button\">\n						Concord Municipal Light Plant\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/danvers-electric-division-ded/\" role=\"button\">\n						Danvers Electric Division\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/georgetown-municipal-light-department-gmld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Georgetown Municipal Light Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"Groveland Municipal Electric Department\" role=\"button\">\n						Groveland Municipal Electric Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/hingham-municipal-lighting-plant-hmlp/\" role=\"button\">\n						Hingham Municipal Lighting Plant \n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/hudson-light-power-department-hlpd/\" role=\"button\">\n						Hudson Light & Power Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/hudson-municipal-light-department-hlpd/\" role=\"button\">\n						Hudson Municipal Light Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/littleton-electric-light-and-water-department-lelwd/\" role=\"button\">\n						Littleton Electric Light & Water Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/mansfield-municipal-electric-deptartment-mmed/\" role=\"button\">\n						Mansfield Municipal Electric Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/merrimac-municipal-light-department-mmld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Merrimac Municipal Light Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/middleborough-gas-electric-department-mged/\" role=\"button\">\n						Middleborough Gas & Electric Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/middleton-municipal-electric-department-mmed/\" role=\"button\">\n						Middleton Municipal Electric Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/north-attleborough-electric-department-naed/\" role=\"button\">\n						North Attleborough Electric Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/norwood-municipal-light-department-nmld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Norwood Municipal Light Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/pascoag-utility-district-pud/\" role=\"button\">\n						Pascoag Utility District\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/reading-municipal-light-department-rmld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Reading Municipal Light Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/rowley-municipal-light-plant-rmlp/\" role=\"button\">\n						Rowley Municipal Light Plant\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/taunton-municipal-lighting-plant-tmlp/\" role=\"button\">\n						Taunton Municipal Lighting Plant\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/wellesley-municipal-light-plant-wmlp/\" role=\"button\">\n						Wellesley Municipal Light Plant\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>\n							<a href=\"\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Pinterest\n				</a>','YOUR LOCAL UTILITY','','inherit','closed','closed','','18-revision-v1','','','2018-07-16 20:49:49','2018-07-16 20:49:49','',18,'http://ee.ene.org/18-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2001,2,'2018-07-16 20:50:36','2018-07-16 20:50:36','<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','footer - social media','','publish','closed','closed','','footer-social-media-2','','','2018-08-28 18:23:48','2018-08-28 18:23:48','',0,'http://ee.ene.org/?elementor_library=footer-social-media-2',0,'elementor_library','',0),(2002,2,'2018-07-16 20:50:36','2018-07-16 20:50:36','','footer - social media','','inherit','closed','closed','','2001-revision-v1','','','2018-07-16 20:50:36','2018-07-16 20:50:36','',2001,'http://ee.ene.org/2001-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2003,2,'2018-07-16 20:50:36','2018-07-16 20:50:36','<ul>\n				<li title=\"Edit Widget\">\n					Edit Widget\n				</li>\n									<li title=\"Duplicate Widget\">\n						Duplicate Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Save Widget\">\n						Save Widget\n					</li>\n									<li title=\"Remove Widget\">\n						Remove Widget\n					</li>\n							</ul>\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','footer - social media','','inherit','closed','closed','','2001-revision-v1','','','2018-07-16 20:50:36','2018-07-16 20:50:36','',2001,'http://ee.ene.org/2001-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2007,2,'2018-07-16 20:51:10','2018-07-16 20:51:10','<h1>Your Local Utility</h1>		\n		<p>Learn more about your utility\'s energy saving rebates and programs.</p>		\n			<h2>List of Utilities</h2>		\n		<p>ENE has been serving communities in Massachusetts and Rhode Island since 1998. We partner with local, municipal utilities to provide energy efficiency programs and services to residential and commercial customers. Connect to your utility’s money-saving rebates and programs here.</p>		\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/belmont-municipal-light-department-bmld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Belmont Municipal Light Department \n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/braintree-electric-light-department-beld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Braintree Electric Light Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/chester-municipal-electric-department-cmeld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Chester Municipal Electric Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/concord-municipal-light-plant-cmlp/\" role=\"button\">\n						Concord Municipal Light Plant\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/danvers-electric-division-ded/\" role=\"button\">\n						Danvers Electric Division\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/georgetown-municipal-light-department-gmld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Georgetown Municipal Light Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"Groveland Municipal Electric Department\" role=\"button\">\n						Groveland Municipal Electric Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/hingham-municipal-lighting-plant-hmlp/\" role=\"button\">\n						Hingham Municipal Lighting Plant \n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/hudson-light-power-department-hlpd/\" role=\"button\">\n						Hudson Light & Power Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/hudson-municipal-light-department-hlpd/\" role=\"button\">\n						Hudson Municipal Light Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/littleton-electric-light-and-water-department-lelwd/\" role=\"button\">\n						Littleton Electric Light & Water Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/mansfield-municipal-electric-deptartment-mmed/\" role=\"button\">\n						Mansfield Municipal Electric Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/merrimac-municipal-light-department-mmld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Merrimac Municipal Light Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/middleborough-gas-electric-department-mged/\" role=\"button\">\n						Middleborough Gas & Electric Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/middleton-municipal-electric-department-mmed/\" role=\"button\">\n						Middleton Municipal Electric Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/north-attleborough-electric-department-naed/\" role=\"button\">\n						North Attleborough Electric Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/norwood-municipal-light-department-nmld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Norwood Municipal Light Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/pascoag-utility-district-pud/\" role=\"button\">\n						Pascoag Utility District\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/utilities/reading-municipal-light-department-rmld/\" role=\"button\">\n						Reading Municipal Light Department\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/rowley-municipal-light-plant-rmlp/\" role=\"button\">\n						Rowley Municipal Light Plant\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/taunton-municipal-lighting-plant-tmlp/\" role=\"button\">\n						Taunton Municipal Lighting Plant\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"http://ee.ene.org/utilities/wellesley-municipal-light-plant-wmlp/\" role=\"button\">\n						Wellesley Municipal Light Plant\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','YOUR LOCAL UTILITY','','inherit','closed','closed','','18-revision-v1','','','2018-07-16 20:51:10','2018-07-16 20:51:10','',18,'http://ee.ene.org/18-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2008,2,'2018-07-16 20:51:12','2018-07-16 20:51:12','<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','footer - social media','','inherit','closed','closed','','2001-revision-v1','','','2018-07-16 20:51:12','2018-07-16 20:51:12','',2001,'http://ee.ene.org/2001-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2009,2,'2018-07-16 20:52:40','2018-07-16 20:52:40','Air-Sealing Priorities\r\n\r\nAlmost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a>\r\n<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>\r\nIdentify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.\r\n\r\n<img title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />\r\n\r\nSeal the high and low leaks\r\n\r\nThe greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.\r\n\r\nSealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.\r\n\r\nOnce you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.\r\n<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>\r\nWhen walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)\r\n\r\n<img title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />\r\n\r\n<b>Attic Bypasses</b>\r\n\r\nAlthough there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:\r\n<ol>\r\n 	<li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li>\r\n 	<li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li>\r\n 	<li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li>\r\n 	<li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li>\r\n 	<li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li>\r\n</ol>\r\nThrough-framing into attics\r\n\r\nNow that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks.\r\n\r\n<img title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />\r\n\r\nRecessed lights\r\n\r\nRecessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.\r\n\r\nOther special situations\r\n\r\nAttic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.\r\nSuspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.\r\n\r\nSometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.\r\n\r\nAnother potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.\r\n\r\nOccasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.\r\n<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>\r\nAfter the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\r\n\r\nBasement walls\r\n\r\nGenerally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.\r\n\r\n<b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).\r\n\r\n<b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.\r\n\r\n<b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.\r\n\r\n<b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.\r\n\r\nPro Tip\r\n\r\nIf you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\r\n\r\nSafety First\r\n\r\nAlthough air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.\r\n<figure><img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" alt=\"\" width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" /><figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption></figure>\r\nBlower-door testing\r\n\r\nAir-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\r\n\r\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.\r\n\r\nSealing the floor deck\r\n\r\nAlthough it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.\r\n\r\nCrawlspaces\r\n\r\nCrawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\r\n\r\nSlab-on-grade\r\n\r\nIf your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.\r\n<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>\r\nExterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.\r\n\r\nService penetrations\r\n\r\nSealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.\r\n\r\nTransitions in exterior wall framing\r\n\r\nOne common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.\r\n<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>\r\nMost modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.\r\n<h4>Energy New England</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li>100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 Foxborough, MA 02035</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-1200</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-0222</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">\r\nsolutions@ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ene.org/\">\r\nwww.ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>Website</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\"> Home\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\"> Energy Assessment\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\"> Recommendations\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\"> Town We Serve\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\"> Home Advisor\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"#\"> Shop\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\"> Contact\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>social media</h4>\r\n<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\r\nLinkedin\r\n</a>','Hot Water Heaters','','inherit','closed','closed','','1984-revision-v1','','','2018-07-16 20:52:40','2018-07-16 20:52:40','',1984,'http://ee.ene.org/1984-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2010,2,'2018-07-16 20:53:08','2018-07-16 20:53:08','Air-Sealing Priorities\r\n\r\nAlmost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a>\r\n<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>\r\nIdentify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.\r\n\r\n<img title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />\r\n\r\nSeal the high and low leaks\r\n\r\nThe greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.\r\n\r\nSealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.\r\n\r\nOnce you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.\r\n<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>\r\nWhen walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)\r\n\r\n<img title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />\r\n\r\n<b>Attic Bypasses</b>\r\n\r\nAlthough there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:\r\n<ol>\r\n 	<li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li>\r\n 	<li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li>\r\n 	<li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li>\r\n 	<li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li>\r\n 	<li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li>\r\n</ol>\r\nThrough-framing into attics\r\n\r\nNow that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks.\r\n\r\n<img title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />\r\n\r\nRecessed lights\r\n\r\nRecessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.\r\n\r\nOther special situations\r\n\r\nAttic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.\r\nSuspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.\r\n\r\nSometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.\r\n\r\nAnother potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.\r\n\r\nOccasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.\r\n<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>\r\nAfter the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.\r\n\r\nBasement walls\r\n\r\nGenerally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.\r\n\r\n<b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).\r\n\r\n<b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.\r\n\r\n<b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.\r\n\r\n<b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.\r\n\r\nPro Tip\r\n\r\nIf you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.\r\n\r\nSafety First\r\n\r\nAlthough air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.\r\n<figure><img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" alt=\"\" width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" /><figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption></figure>\r\nBlower-door testing\r\n\r\nAir-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.\r\n\r\nIt’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.\r\n\r\nSealing the floor deck\r\n\r\nAlthough it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.\r\n\r\nCrawlspaces\r\n\r\nCrawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.\r\n\r\nSlab-on-grade\r\n\r\nIf your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.\r\n<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>\r\nExterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.\r\n\r\nService penetrations\r\n\r\nSealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.\r\n\r\nTransitions in exterior wall framing\r\n\r\nOne common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.\r\n<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>\r\nMost modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.\r\n<h4>Energy New England</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li>100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 Foxborough, MA 02035</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-1200</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-0222</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">\r\nsolutions@ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ene.org/\">\r\nwww.ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>Website</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\"> Home\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\"> Energy Assessment\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\"> Recommendations\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\"> Town We Serve\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\"> Home Advisor\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"#\"> Shop\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\"> Contact\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>social media</h4>\r\n<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\r\nLinkedin\r\n</a>','Insulation','','inherit','closed','closed','','46-revision-v1','','','2018-07-16 20:53:08','2018-07-16 20:53:08','',46,'http://ee.ene.org/46-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2013,4,'2018-07-23 19:17:22','2018-07-23 19:17:22','Appliances &amp; Lighting\r\n\r\nYou can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances’ energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor01\">Reducing Run Time</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor02\">Improving Efficiency</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor03\">Smart Shopping for New Appliances</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor04\">Lighting</a>\r\n<h1>Reducing Run Time</h1>\r\nReducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don’t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It’s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back when temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more—provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don’t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative humidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\r\n<h1>Improving efficiency</h1>\r\nIt’s also possible to improve the efficiency of some appliances. Efficiency can often be increased by simple maintenance or by choosing the proper settings when using appliances.\r\n\r\nRefrigeration\r\n\r\nThe refrigerator is typically the biggest electricity user in the kitchen and is often the largest in the house. If your refrigerator is getting old, it’s probably worth replacing it with a new Energy Star model. New, efficient refrigerators use less than half the energy of standard models before 1993. If you are lucky enough to have a refrigerator that dates back to the 1970s or early 1980s and it still runs, take it to the recycle center. Even if it’s the spare in the basement or garage, the energy savings will pay for a brand-new unit in just a few years. And buy the smallest, simplest fridge that will meet your needs; large Energy Star models use more electricity than smaller ones; through-door ice and water also use energy.\r\nTo keep any refrigerator running right, ensure adequate air circulation around the unit. Keep it a few inches away from the wall, and don’t box it in with cabinets. It’s a good idea to vacuum the grill periodically, but there is no evidence that vacuuming dust off the coils inside actually saves electricity. Make sure the door seals are tight, keep the unit away from heat sources (don’t put it next to the stove or dishwasher) and check the temperature setting. The refrigerator compartments should stay between 38°F and 42°F, and the freezer between 0°F and 5°F. If you have a power-saving switch, use it. Typically, the switch disables internal heaters that fight condensation; turn it off only if condensation occurs. Finally, keep refrigerators and freezers reasonably full; they are less efficient when they are nearly empty. Even more important, avoid the temptation to keep the old fridge in the garage or basement for overflow (or the odd six-pack). Buying a new, highly efficient refrigerator won’t save any energy if you keep the old one running!\r\nIt’s a common mistake to assume that if the fridge is only keeping a few items cold it’s not working very hard. A refrigerator uses most of its energy keeping the inside of the box cold—even if it’s completely empty. If you can’t do without it, unplug the spare until you need it to stock up for that holiday gathering. One more buying tip: A manual-defrost chest freezer uses far less energy than an upright, auto-defrost unit. Modern, airtight chest freezers rarely need defrosting, and are less likely to damage food with freezer burn.\r\n\r\nLaundry\r\n\r\nWashing clothes uses energy in three ways: Washers and dryers have motors that move clothes and water; washers use hot water, which is heated with gas or electricity; and dryers heat clothes to dry them out. When you do a load of laundry, pay attention to the washer settings. Always use a cold-water rinse, and use a warm or cold wash for loads when you can. A warm/ cold cycle uses about half as much total energy as a hot/cold cycle. Also, pay attention to the size of the load; fill, but don’t overload, the machine for best efficiency. If you do run a smaller load, set the wash level appropriately. The settings on your washer also affect drying time. Use the fastest spin setting whenever you can, to remove the most water.\r\nFor dryer efficiency, keep the lint filter clean, and check the outlet periodically for lint that may be clogging the vent. If your dryer hose is kinked, twisted, or too long, replace it with as short and direct a run as possible, preferably with a straight sheet-metal duct instead of a flexible vinyl or aluminum duct. Try to run several loads in succession to take advantage of retained heat, and fill, but don’t overload, the machine. Of course, if the weather’s good, you can also dry clothes outside on a line.\r\n\r\nDishwasher\r\n\r\nYou can minimize dishwasher energy by paying attention to the settings. Don’t use the “Heavy” or “Pots and Pans” cycle unless you really need to. A fast scraping or rinsing of dishes (especially starchy stuff) does help the dishwasher do a better job, so you can use the “Light” setting. But always use cold water for pre-rinsing. Use a premium dishwasher detergent, and let the dishwasher do the job it’s designed for: cutting grease. Wait until the machine is full before using it: It uses the same amount of energy whether you wash one dish or thirty. Many new dishwashers have sensors that stop the machine as particulates in the water clear (indicating that the dishes are clean). If you don’t have to take the dishes out right away, you can run the machine with the “Air-Dry” setting (sometimes called “Energy Saver”).\r\nIt’s okay to use the dishwasher: In fact, research shows that even careful hand washing uses more hot water and soap than a modern dishwasher. And today’s very efficient dishwashers are reasonably priced—there are Energy Star–rated dishwashers at every point in the price spectrum.\r\n<figure><img title=\"Appliances_Pic1\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Appliances_Pic1.png\" alt=\"Appliances_Pic1\" /><figcaption>Front-loading clothes washers use less water and less energy and are easier on your clothes.</figcaption></figure>\r\n<h1>Smart shopping for new appliances</h1>\r\nMinimum efficiency regulations for new appliances have increased over the years, so even the least-efficient new models typically use much less energy than appliances that are 10 or more years old. In most cases, it’s not cost-effective to go out and buy new, energy-efficient products just to save energy. Two exceptions to this rule are older refrigerators and dehumidifiers. For other appliances, look for the most efficient products available when you do go shopping—and always choose an Energy Star–labeled appliance at a minimum. It’s worth some research in advance; even within the Energy Star labeling program, there can be a wide range of efficiency. For example, to get an Energy Star label, refrigerators must save at least 20 percent over federal standards, but some models save over 50 percent. Also, minimum requirements vary with features: A side-by-side model with through-door ice can use almost 50 percent more than a top-freezer model without ice—even though both are Energy Star rated. Listings of efficiency levels by model number for most Energy Star products are available at www.energystar.gov/products.\r\n<h1>Lighting</h1>\r\nThere are two basic approaches to making the lights in your home more efficient: eliminate unnecessary usage and use the most efficient products available. Many of us heard the message “turn off lights when you’re not using them” while we were growing up. Of course, how much light you need is a matter of eyesight and personal taste. Turning off a light isn’t always a practical solution, except when you leave the room—then there’s no excuse. One of the best ways to eliminate unnecessary light usage is with controls. Regularly used indoor lights can be put on timers or occupancy sensors so they aren’t left on for hours when no one is using them. Exterior walkway and security lighting can be put on a combination of timers, motion sensors, or photocell controls to minimize their use while ensuring that they are on whenever needed.\r\n\r\nLED Lighting\r\n\r\nLED lighting technology is developing rapidly. In just a few years, a number of good-quality LEDs have become available (though they are still expensive). The products will keep getting better, and prices will continue to drop, over the next few years at least. LEDs are fundamentally different than other light sources. An LED is a semiconductor—basically, a tiny computer chip—that generates light. LEDs have been around for decades in electronic equipment displays and status lights, but by nature a single LED generates a focused point-source of light in a single, saturated color such as red, yellow, or blue. Getting an LED to look like an incandescent bulb is a challenge; most manufacturers combine many LEDs of different colors to approximate warm, yellow-white light and to disperse the light in a useful pattern.\r\n<h4>Energy New England</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li>100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 Foxborough, MA 02035</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-1200</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-0222</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">\r\nsolutions@ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ene.org/\">\r\nwww.ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>Website</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\"> Home\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\"> Energy Assessment\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\"> Recommendations\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\"> Town We Serve\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\"> Home Advisor\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"#\"> Shop\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\"> Contact\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>social media</h4>\r\n<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\r\nLinkedin\r\n</a>','Appliances & Lighting','','publish','closed','closed','','appliances','','','2018-07-25 18:56:40','2018-07-25 18:56:40','',16,'http://ee.ene.org/?page_id=2013',0,'page','',0),(2014,2,'2018-07-17 20:19:11','2018-07-17 20:19:11','','HHE-logo','','inherit','open','closed','','hhe-logo','','','2018-07-17 20:19:11','2018-07-17 20:19:11','',10,'/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/HHE-logo.png',0,'attachment','image/png',0),(2015,2,'2018-07-17 20:19:43','2018-07-17 20:19:43','<h2>Learn to make the most of your energy investment.</h2>		\n		Schedule your home energy assessment today.		\n			<a href=\"#\" role=\"button\">\n						GET STARTED\n					</a>\n			<h2>Let us help you navigate your energy future.</h2>		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT</a></h3>		\n		Schedule a home energy assessment with one of our experienced advisors. You will  get expert advice and learn more about the energy efficiency improvements you can make to your home. Understand the common sources of energy waste in your home that have a negative impact on both the comfort of your living space and your wallet. 		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">RECOMMENDATIONS</a></h3>		\n		Want to learn more about recommendations made in your Home Energy Assessment? Your path to energy efficiency starts here. Find out what options you have and where to begin the process of making your home more efficient.		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">YOUR LOCAL UTILITY</a></h3>		\n		Energy New England is proud to provide Energy Efficiency services for 20 municipal light plants in Massachusetts and Rhode Island. Many local utilities offer rebates on Energy Star<sup>®</sup> appliances, thermostats and weatherization. Discover the incentives available meant to assist you in your energy efficiency upgrades. In addition, see if your local utility offers other savings programs that may be right for you.		\n			<h4>Our Partners</h4>		\n			<h5>Helping to ensure an energy efficient future. </h5>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','HOME','','inherit','closed','closed','','10-revision-v1','','','2018-07-17 20:19:43','2018-07-17 20:19:43','',10,'http://ee.ene.org/10-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2016,2,'2018-07-17 20:22:44','2018-07-17 20:22:44','<h2>Learn to make the most of your energy investment.</h2>		\n		Schedule your home energy assessment today.		\n			<a href=\"#\" role=\"button\">\n						GET STARTED\n					</a>\n			<h2>Let us help you navigate your energy future.</h2>		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT</a></h3>		\n		Schedule a home energy assessment with one of our experienced advisors. You will  get expert advice and learn more about the energy efficiency improvements you can make to your home. Understand the common sources of energy waste in your home that have a negative impact on both the comfort of your living space and your wallet. 		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">RECOMMENDATIONS</a></h3>		\n		Want to learn more about recommendations made in your Home Energy Assessment? Your path to energy efficiency starts here. Find out what options you have and where to begin the process of making your home more efficient.		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">YOUR LOCAL UTILITY</a></h3>		\n		Energy New England is proud to provide Energy Efficiency services for 20 municipal light plants in Massachusetts and Rhode Island. Many local utilities offer rebates on Energy Star<sup>®</sup> appliances, thermostats and weatherization. Discover the incentives available meant to assist you in your energy efficiency upgrades. In addition, see if your local utility offers other savings programs that may be right for you.		\n			<h4>Our Partners</h4>		\n			<h5>Helping to ensure an energy efficient future. </h5>		\n							<a href=\"https://snuggpro.com/\">		\n		</a>						\n							<a href=\"http://www.healthyhomesenergy.com/\">		\n		</a>						\n							<a href=\"https://www.flir.com/\">		\n		</a>						\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','HOME','','inherit','closed','closed','','10-revision-v1','','','2018-07-17 20:22:44','2018-07-17 20:22:44','',10,'http://ee.ene.org/10-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2017,2,'2018-07-17 20:27:18','2018-07-17 20:27:18','<h2>Learn to make the most of your energy investment.</h2>		\n		Schedule your home energy assessment today.		\n			<a href=\"#\" role=\"button\">\n						GET STARTED\n					</a>\n			<h2>Let us help you navigate your energy future.</h2>		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_hea-clipboard-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">HOME ENERGY ASSESSMENT</a></h3>		\n		Schedule a home energy assessment with one of our experienced advisors. You will  get expert advice and learn more about the energy efficiency improvements you can make to your home. Understand the common sources of energy waste in your home that have a negative impact on both the comfort of your living space and your wallet. 		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_-recommedations-like-1.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">RECOMMENDATIONS</a></h3>		\n		Want to learn more about recommendations made in your Home Energy Assessment? Your path to energy efficiency starts here. Find out what options you have and where to begin the process of making your home more efficient.		\n											<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map-150x150.png 150w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/ene-icons_towns-map.png 201w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" />								</a>\n			<h3><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">YOUR LOCAL UTILITY</a></h3>		\n		Energy New England is proud to provide Energy Efficiency services for 20 municipal light plants in Massachusetts and Rhode Island. Many local utilities offer rebates on Energy Star<sup>®</sup> appliances, thermostats and weatherization. Discover the incentives available meant to assist you in your energy efficiency upgrades. In addition, see if your local utility offers other savings programs that may be right for you.		\n			<h4>Our Partners</h4>		\n			<h5>Helping to ensure an energy efficient future. </h5>		\n							<a href=\"https://snuggpro.com/\">		\n		</a>						\n							<a href=\"http://www.healthyhomesenergy.com/\">		\n		</a>						\n							<a href=\"https://www.flir.com/\">		\n		</a>						\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','HOME','','inherit','closed','closed','','10-revision-v1','','','2018-07-17 20:27:18','2018-07-17 20:27:18','',10,'http://ee.ene.org/10-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2018,4,'2018-07-17 20:30:58','2018-07-17 20:30:58','<h2><p>Appliances</p></h2>		\n		<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances’ energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.</p><p>Reducing Run Time<br />Improving Efficiency<br />Laundry<br />Dishwasher<br />Smart Shopping for New Appliances</p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>\n<p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Appliances','','inherit','closed','closed','','2013-revision-v1','','','2018-07-17 20:30:58','2018-07-17 20:30:58','',2013,'http://ee.ene.org/2013-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2019,4,'2018-07-17 20:41:52','2018-07-17 20:41:52','<h2><p>Appliances</p></h2>		\n		<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances’ energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.</p><p>Reducing Run Time<br />Improving Efficiency<br />Buying Appliances<br />    Laundry<br />    Dishwasher<br />Smart Shopping for New Appliances</p>		\n			<h1>Reducing Run Time</h1>		\n		<p style=\"margin-bottom: .0001pt; line-height: normal; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;\">Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don’t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It’s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back</p><p style=\"margin-bottom: .0001pt; line-height: normal; mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;\">when temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more—provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don’t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative</p><p>humidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.</p>		\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>\n<p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Appliances','','inherit','closed','closed','','2013-revision-v1','','','2018-07-17 20:41:52','2018-07-17 20:41:52','',2013,'http://ee.ene.org/2013-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2020,4,'2018-07-17 20:41:53','2018-07-17 20:41:53','<h2><p>Appliances</p></h2>		\n		<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances’ energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.</p><p>Reducing Run Time<br />Improving Efficiency<br />Buying Appliances<br />    Laundry<br />    Dishwasher<br />Smart Shopping for New Appliances</p>		\n			<h1>Reducing Run Time</h1>		\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>\n<p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Appliances','','inherit','closed','closed','','2013-revision-v1','','','2018-07-17 20:41:53','2018-07-17 20:41:53','',2013,'http://ee.ene.org/2013-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2022,4,'2018-07-23 19:19:08','2018-07-23 19:19:08','<h2><p>Appliances</p></h2>		\n		<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances’ energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.</p><p>Reducing Run Time<br />Improving Efficiency<br />Buying Appliances<br />Smart Shopping for New Appliances</p>		\n			<h1>Reducing Run Time</h1>		\n		Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don’t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It’s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back\nwhen temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more—provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don’t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative\nhumidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>\n<p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Appliances','','inherit','closed','closed','','2013-revision-v1','','','2018-07-23 19:19:08','2018-07-23 19:19:08','',2013,'http://ee.ene.org/2013-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2023,4,'2018-07-23 19:19:09','2018-07-23 19:19:09','<h2><p>Appliances</p></h2>		\n		<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances’ energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.</p><p>Reducing Run Time<br />Improving Efficiency<br />Buying Appliances<br />Smart Shopping for New Appliances</p>		\n			<h1>Reducing Run Time</h1>		\n		Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don’t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It’s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back\nwhen temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more—provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don’t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative\nhumidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>\n<p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Appliances','','inherit','closed','closed','','2013-revision-v1','','','2018-07-23 19:19:09','2018-07-23 19:19:09','',2013,'http://ee.ene.org/2013-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2024,4,'2018-07-23 19:22:22','2018-07-23 19:22:22','<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></p>','Anchor Navigation','','publish','closed','closed','','anchor-navigation','','','2018-07-23 19:48:27','2018-07-23 19:48:27','',0,'http://ee.ene.org/?elementor_library=anchor-navigation',0,'elementor_library','',0),(2025,4,'2018-07-23 19:22:22','2018-07-23 19:22:22','','Anchor Navigation','','inherit','closed','closed','','2024-revision-v1','','','2018-07-23 19:22:22','2018-07-23 19:22:22','',2024,'http://ee.ene.org/2024-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2026,4,'2018-07-23 19:22:23','2018-07-23 19:22:23','<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></p>','Anchor Navigation','','inherit','closed','closed','','2024-revision-v1','','','2018-07-23 19:22:23','2018-07-23 19:22:23','',2024,'http://ee.ene.org/2024-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2027,4,'2018-07-23 19:24:27','2018-07-23 19:24:27','<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></p>','Anchor Navigation','','inherit','closed','closed','','2024-revision-v1','','','2018-07-23 19:24:27','2018-07-23 19:24:27','',2024,'http://ee.ene.org/2024-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2028,4,'2018-07-23 19:24:28','2018-07-23 19:24:28','<h2><p>Air-Sealing Priorities</p></h2>		\n		Almost every house has a large number of hidden air leaks that rob it of heating and cooling energy. Although sealing these leaks is not the easiest job, it is one of the most cost-effective things you can do to increase your home’s energy efficiency. You’ll want to do this before adding any insulation, as fixing the leaks is much more difficult once extra insulation is installed. In addition to saving energy and making your home more comfortable, sealing air leaks also reduces ice dams and freezing pipes, and helps control moisture movement that can contribute to mold and structural damage. People often think that windows and doors are the source of most air leakage in a house, but the largest leaks are almost always hidden in attics, basements, crawlspaces, and other unexpected places.<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></p>		\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>\n<p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','AIR SEALING','','inherit','closed','closed','','44-revision-v1','','','2018-07-23 19:24:28','2018-07-23 19:24:28','',44,'http://ee.ene.org/44-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2029,4,'2018-07-23 19:29:56','2018-07-23 19:29:56','<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Air-Sealing Priorities</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Attic Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Sidewall Air-Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a></p>','Anchor Navigation','','inherit','closed','closed','','2024-revision-v1','','','2018-07-23 19:29:56','2018-07-23 19:29:56','',2024,'http://ee.ene.org/2024-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2030,4,'2018-07-23 19:29:58','2018-07-23 19:29:58','<h2><p>Appliances</p></h2>		\n		<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances’ energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.</p><p>Reducing Run Time<br />Improving Efficiency<br />Buying Appliances<br />Smart Shopping for New Appliances</p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Reducing Run Time</a>\n<a href=\"#anchor02\">Improving Efficiency</a>\n<a href=\"#anchor03\">Buying Appliances</a>\n<a href=\"#anchor04\">Improving Efficiency</a>\n<a href=\"#anchor05\">Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</a>		\n			<h1>Reducing Run Time</h1>		\n		Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don’t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It’s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back\nwhen temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more—provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don’t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative\nhumidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>\n<p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Appliances','','inherit','closed','closed','','2013-revision-v1','','','2018-07-23 19:29:58','2018-07-23 19:29:58','',2013,'http://ee.ene.org/2013-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2031,4,'2018-07-23 19:30:35','2018-07-23 19:30:35','<h2><p>Appliances</p></h2>		\n		<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances’ energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.</p><p>Reducing Run Time<br />Improving Efficiency<br />Buying Appliances<br />Smart Shopping for New Appliances</p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Reducing Run Time</a>\n<a href=\"#anchor02\">Improving Efficiency</a>\n<a href=\"#anchor03\">Buying Appliances</a>\n<a href=\"#anchor04\">Smart Shopping for New Appliances</a>\n			<h1>Reducing Run Time</h1>		\n		Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don’t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It’s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back\nwhen temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more—provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don’t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative\nhumidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>\n<p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Appliances','','inherit','closed','closed','','2013-revision-v1','','','2018-07-23 19:30:35','2018-07-23 19:30:35','',2013,'http://ee.ene.org/2013-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),