(12135,2093,'_elementor_data','[{\"id\":\"22a5\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"background_background\":\"gradient\",\"margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":0,\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":0,\"isLinked\":true},\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"46cc\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1a9a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"<p>Heating<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3878\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"52b4\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7ebf\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Efficiency Losses in a Heating System<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Duct Sealing<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Furnaces<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Heat Pumps<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Electric-Resistance Heat<\\/a>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Hot-Water and Steam Boilers<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5a1\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6edc\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"52ef\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"e34\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Efficiency Losses in a Heating System\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"329c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Not all the energy in the fuel you buy contributes to heating your house. Your heating system\\u2019s efficiency is the amount of useful heat you get as a percentage of purchased energy. Anything less than 100 percent represents waste, or lost efficiency. There are three kinds of heating system losses: combustion loss, cycling loss, and distribution loss. Combustion loss is simply the heat that goes up the chimney; it varies from about 30 percent to as little as 3 percent. That leaves a combustion efficiency between 70 percent and 97 percent; that is, the percentage of the fuel you buy that is converted to heat in the equipment. Combustion efficiency is mostly affected by equipment design; unless the burners are badly out of tune, it can\\u2019t be improved much unless you buy a new unit.\\n\\n Cycling losses occur when the heating equipment starts and stops. Each time the unit shuts off, some heat remains inside; some of that heat goes up the chimney. Cycling losses are affected by the equipment design, location, and controls; some efficiency improvements can be made if the controls are set poorly to begin with. Distribution losses occur when heat generated in the equipment gets out of the house before it reaches its destination. Distribution losses include duct air leaks and conductive losses through uninsulated ducts or pipes. Distribution losses can be significant: 5 percent to 30 percent, so in many homes a large improvement can be made.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6f08\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5a85\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1dfb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Comfort and energy use\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4f60\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Another fairly simple factor that affects heating-system performance is system balancing. Balancing refers to the temperature consistency from one room to the next. If one or more rooms are consistently too cold, people tend to set the thermostat high enough to be comfortable in those rooms. The rest of the house then overheats, using more energy. Balancing problems can be caused by thermal defects in the building, by problems in the distribution system, or by the thermostat location. Rooms that have air leaks, drafts, or missing insulation may lose heat faster than neighboring rooms, or they may just be uncomfortable. Thermal problems should be fixed before addressing the heating system. Once the building enclosure is properly treated, the distribution system can usually be adjusted for better balance.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6d24\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2bf0\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"13d5\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"31dc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air leaks in a duct system can have an enormous effect on your house. Duct leaks rob a furnace, heat pump, or central air system of energy\\u2014 sometimes close to half. Leaks can cause comfort problems, drive moisture flows, and sometimes even lead to dangerous back drafting of combustion equipment. Leaky basement ducts don\\u2019t usually waste much energy; sealing them is pretty easy, but there\\u2019s not much value to it. But ducts located in attics, garages, or vented crawlspaces can be a big energy problem. Sealing them can be the biggest opportunity for energy savings in many homes. Leaky ducts do more than let heat out. They also increase the air exchange in a house by 30 percent to 300 percent whenever the air handler is running. That is why furnaces have the reputation for drying out houses. Return leaks in a mechanical room or basement can backdraft a nearby water heater or even the furnace itself. Return leaks can also draw in radon gas, water vapor, subsoil pesticides, or airborne mold spores, distributing them throughout the house.<\\/p><p>Supply air leaking into an attic or enclosed cathedral ceiling cavity can deliver moisture at an accelerated rate to cold roof sheathing, causing condensation. If the ducts also carry central air-conditioning, return leaks can bring in outdoor humidity in the summer, reducing cooling efficiency, and leaks can draw outside air into building cavities, where moisture can lead to mold inside the house. Duct leaks are even more important than shell air leaks: Each hole and crack is under pressure from the furnace fan and leaks the hot air from your furnace (or cold air from your air conditioner).<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"582f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic1.png\",\"id\":2076},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"It\\u2019s important to peel back the insulation and vapor jacket to seal the duct connections. The black stains are from the air leaks.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"4896792\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Return ducts can be a bigger challenge. Return systems are frequently patched together using a combination of plywood, sheet metal, joist or wall cavities, and a lot of wishful thinking. Many HVAC installers don\\u2019t pay much attention to returns, focusing mostly on supplies that get the air to where it\\u2019s supposed to go. But well-sealed returns are important for furnace efficiency, occupant health and safety, and building durability. Fortunately, it\\u2019s not typically necessary to seal ducts that are buried inside interior wall and floor cavities. However, you do want to ensure that those cavities don\\u2019t leak to outside spaces; if they do, seal those leaks at the thermal boundary to keep the ducts and the indoor air inside.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"cab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct insulation\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7ee\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Ductwork that runs through unconditioned space should be insulated, if it is not already. Typically, supply ducts are insulated but often have weak spots at register boots and other major connections. Often, return ductwork is left uninsulated.<\\/p><p>Ducts should be insulated with vinyl-faced fiberglass wrap; R-6 is the minimum allowed by current residential codes; R-8 is required for supply ducts in attics. If possible, attic ducts should have higher R-values. Think about it: In winter, attic temperatures are nearly as cold as outdoors; in summer (for air-conditioning ducts), they are often much hotter than outdoors. If the ducts are close to the attic floor, cover them completely with loose-fill insulation. If that is not possible, try to find R-10 or higher duct wrap. Of course, seal all the duct connections tightly before insulating.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6e76\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6100\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"686f\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"474f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7f67\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnaces\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6380\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The furnace is by far the most common type of heating system in the country. In fact, it\\u2019s so common that many people use the word furnace to describe any type of heating equipment. Furnaces create heat by burning fuel, usually natural gas. Oil and liquefied petroleum (LP, or propane) gas are also used in areas where piped gas is unavailable. By contrast, heat pumps and electric furnaces use electricity to heat the air; they also use a duct system to deliver heat, but they are not furnaces and do not have a fuel supply, chimney, or vent pipe. Boilers burn gas or oil but create hot water or steam instead of warm air. Furnace efficiency can be improved by performing regular maintenance, improving airflow, adjusting control settings, and sealing leaky ductwork.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a91f30b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic2.jpg\",\"id\":2077},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"3182\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Regular maintenance\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a47\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Regular furnace maintenance is important to keep things running well, just as with any machine, but tune-ups and filter replacements don\\u2019t really save energy. Be sure to change the filter once or twice a year; more frequently is not much benefit because filters actually work better once some dust has built up on them. If the filter never gets dirty, however, then you may have a duct leak that is causing a loss of efficiency. Keeping registers open and free of obstructions may help your comfort, but this also won\\u2019t affect your energy bills noticeably.<\\/p><p>\\u00a0<\\/p><p>If you have a gas furnace, you should have it cleaned and tuned every two to four years. An oil burner should be tuned every year. Don\\u2019t wait until cold weather hits\\u2014that\\u2019s when the service companies are busy. You may get a better price if you get the tune-up in the spring.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"628b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic3.png\",\"id\":2078},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"Air filters should be replaced occasionally for best furnace performance. This pleated filter is more effective than the standard cheap fiberglass filter, and it doesn\\u2019t cost much more.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"1138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Low airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"135\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Low airflow can also reduce furnace efficiency. It can be caused by clogged air-conditioning coils, low fan speed settings, loose fan drive belts, undersized ductwork, or duct obstructions. Sometimes airflow is low to one room or section of the house, causing discomfort. Diagnosing low airflow is complex, but once identified, the fixes are usually fairly easy and inexpensive. These improvements are probably better left to a professional, but it\\u2019s good to be informed, because many technicians don\\u2019t bother checking airflow. If a service person is unable to explain in sensible terms what is happening in your system, you may want to get an opinion from another technician.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25e6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnace Tune-Up\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5fc9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"A professional tune-up for a gas furnace includes cleaning the burner and heat exchanger, checking the adjustment of air and fuel flow, cleaning and checking the heat exchanger for leaks, and testing draft pressure and carbon monoxide levels. The air-handler fan should be cleaned and lubricated as needed, once every two or three tune-ups. In addition, internal controls may be checked and adjusted if necessary. Don\\u2019t expect any real energy savings from a gas furnace tune-up; every two to four years is often enough. Oil burners are more finicky than gas burners. Most oil furnaces benefit from annual professional service; fuel filters, burner nozzles, electrodes, combustion chamber, heat exchanger, and flue pipe all need regular cleaning and adjustment. Checking heat exchangers and testing combustion efficiency are also useful. Try to find a technician who is knowledgeable, methodical, and thorough. If you have an oil furnace, the service technician might also recommend installing a smaller oil nozzle. This can reduce the heat output of the furnace, better matching it to the house and increasing operating efficiency slightly.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"9578043\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnace control settings\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9ea347a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The furnace controls can also have an impact on efficiency. The blower control, located above the heat exchanger, turns on the blower when it senses heat from the burner. The fan-on temperature should be set so the blower comes on between 90\\u00b0F and 105\\u00b0F; if it\\u2019s set too high, the burner will fire for a long time before the fan comes on, letting excess heat go up the chimney. If it\\u2019s set too low, the circulating air may feel uncomfortably cool.<\\/p><p>\\u00a0<\\/p><p>The fan-off temperature must be slightly lower than the fan-on temperature: between 85\\u00b0F and 100\\u00b0F. The lower it is set, the longer the fan will run at the end of the cycle when the thermostat turns off the burners, moving residual heat from the heat exchanger to your house. If your fan-on and fan-off temperatures are fixed (rather than adjustable) and set too high, the control can be replaced. Note that the temperature markings on adjustable controls are often poorly calibrated. Verify the actual fan-on and fan-off temperatures with a thermometer in the supply plenum.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5fdc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2ddf\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"20d1\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7e09\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6857\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat Pumps\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2ae9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Air-source heat pumps, popular in some parts of the country, are basically air conditioners that can work in reverse to deliver heat into the house in winter. Heat pumps provide heating and cooling in one machine, with one duct system and no combustion. Heat pumps are not subject to backdrafting, combustion air requirements, or some of the offcycle losses to which furnaces are prone. Because they use ducts to deliver warm air to the house, heat pump ducts in attics, garages, and crawlspaces must be sealed thoroughly and insulated well. Heat pumps are more prone to airflow problems than furnaces are, and improper refrigerant charging can have a negative impact on both heating and cooling efficiency. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"17ee\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Operating efficiency and resistance heating\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4720\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat pumps are rated using Heating System Performance Factor, or HSPF. An HSPF of 6.8 corresponds to an efficiency of 200 percent. Most new heat pumps vary from 7.3 to about 10 HSPF; the larger the number, the more efficient the unit. An HSPF of 10 is approximately equal to 290-percent efficient\\u2014for every kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity you buy, you get almost 3 kWh of heat delivered to your house. How can a heat pump generate more energy than it consumes? The difference is made up by heat energy absorbed from the outdoor air. That energy goes into the system; because it\\u2019s free, it\\u2019s not counted in the measurement of efficiency. Most heat pumps, by themselves, operate at reasonable efficiencies until outside air temperatures drop to about 35\\u00b0F to 40\\u00b0F. As the outdoor air gets colder, less heat is available, and the heat pump output drops off, even as the house needs more heat. So cold-weather performance is typically supplemented with electric-resistance backup heaters. This auxiliary heat costs about three times more per unit of heat than the compressor heating cycle. That may be fine in regions with long summers, mild winters, and relatively low electric rates, but it\\u2019s not in much of the North, where electricity is expensive and winters are cold. One fairly inexpensive way to reduce the use of electric-resistance heating is to install an outdoor cutout thermostat. For about $100 to $150 installed, this device locks out the supplemental electric heat when the outdoor air temperature is above 30\\u00b0F or 35\\u00b0F.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5977\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7a9c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat pumps are even more sensitive to airflow than furnaces are. Heat pumps need to move a larger volume of air, but installers who are used to working with furnaces sometimes skimp on duct sizing, leading to low-airflow problems. Unfortunately, checking the airflow of a heat pump is not as easy as checking that of a furnace. It can be done with special instruments or with a version of the temperature-rise method used with the electric-resistance backup heat. Don\\u2019t attempt to take these measurements unless you understand exactly what you are doing\\u2014if you aren\\u2019t sure, get a service technician to do it for you. For best efficiency, heat pump airflow should be 375 CFM to 425 CFM per ton of heating capacity. It should never be below 300 CFM per ton. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour, and equipment is typically rated in increments of 1\\u20442 ton, such as \\u201c24\\u201d (\\u00d71,000 Btu, or 2 tons), \\u201c30\\u201d (21\\u20442 tons), \\u201c36\\u201d (3 tons), etc.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a563a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Refrigerant charge\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1d32d86\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Older heat pumps are also finicky about refrigerant charge. Many heat pumps, even when serviced regularly, are either over- or undercharged, which has a negative impact on efficiency. Unfortunately, many service technicians don\\u2019t take the time to diagnose or correct those problems; they typically get the system working and move on to the next service call. To measure charge correctly, airflow must be in the recommended range, and few technicians test airflow as a matter of course. There are very specific ways to measure refrigerant charge during unit operation. Depending on the type of unit, the superheat or subcooling must be measured carefully, as it is for an air conditioner. There are also several automated systems on the market today that trained technicians can use to analyze heat pump operation. Newer high-efficiency models should also be properly charged, but they are more forgiving of varying charge conditions and their efficiency doesn\\u2019t suffer as much.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"10b1fd1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat pump service\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"e514960\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Like furnaces, heat pumps should be serviced regularly. Basic service can be done by anyone. Air filters should be replaced once or twice a year, as needed, and the outdoor coil should be kept free of snow and debris. Regular service calls\\u2014 typically every two to three years\\u2014should include testing the controls, cleaning the blower and both the indoor and the outdoor coils as needed, and checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines. To service your heat pump, try to find a contractor whose technicians are certified by North American Technician Excellence (NATE, see www.hvacradvice.com), or who demonstrates a commitment to attending manufacturers\\u2019 programs frequently. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing airflow problems, then carefully measuring and correcting refrigerant charge. Once that has been done, service technicians generally should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless the system performance drops off or there is other evidence that something is wrong. Refrigerant does not escape unless there is a leak.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"de2ded1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic4.png\",\"id\":2079},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"26e4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heatin_Pic5.png\",\"id\":2080},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"06769f8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ductless Heat Pumps\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5e85b4a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ductless heat pumps, often called minisplit heat pumps, are available in higher heating (and cooling) efficiencies than just about any other heat pumps on the market. The most efficient ones use an inverter-driven compressor, and variable speed fans that run continuously at a low speed to match the load in the house and minimize noise. One outdoor unit may be used with one or more indoor units that deliver heat and cooling to the house. Each indoor unit connects to the outdoor unit with a small bundle of pipes and wires that carry refrigerant and electricity, so there are no duct losses. Some models are designed for cold climate operation and maintain a high heating capacity and decent efficiency near 0\\u00b0F. A single mini-split makes a great heating and cooling system for a single-room addition or a deep energy remodel, or to offset electric resistance, oil, or LP gas heat.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"74415b8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ground-source heat pumps\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b12d517\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ground-source heat pumps (or GSHPs; often called geothermal heat pumps) extract heat from the earth or from underground water, rather than from outdoor air. Because temperatures are more stable underground, GSHP systems theoretically have much higher heating efficiencies than air-source heat pumps; rated Coefficient of Performance (COPs) range from about 3 to 5 (300 percent to 500 percent). There are two basic types of GSHP systems. Closed-loop (ground-loop) systems are usually more efficient but can be more expensive to install. Open-loop (groundwater or water source) systems usually cost less to install but can cost more to run, due to the power consumption of a large well pump that\\u2019s often required for these systems. A third type of GSHP, called direct exchange (DX), uses a copper pipe ground loop to circulate refrigerant underground. Their long-term reliability is less clear than that of closed loop water-based systems. Like air-source heat pumps, ground-source heat pumps can be cost-effective in regions with mild or hot climates and moderate electric rates, especially in areas where installation costs are modest. However, in regions with cold climates and high electric rates, they generally do not provide enough savings to justify the high installation cost. Ground-source heat pumps can also have very high cooling efficiencies. The heating capacity of GSHPs is much better in cold weather than that of conventional air-source heat pumps, so there is typically little or no need for supplemental electric heat. Closed-loop systems need little or no maintenance, but open-loop systems may have water-quality issues, filters that need replacing, and well pumps with shortened life expectancies.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"ad52eba\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ground-Source Heat Pump Efficiency\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"ccb4742\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Efficiency ratings for GSHPs come in three flavors: water loop, ground loop, and ground water. \\u201cWater loop\\u201d is used for commercial systems; \\u201cground loop\\u201d is used for closed loops; and \\u201cground water\\u201d for open loops. All of them rate the heating efficiency using a Coefficient of Performance, which is the ratio of heat out to electricity in: A COP of 3 represents a heating efficiency of 300 percent. There\\u2019s a trick to the GSHP performance ratings: You can\\u2019t achieve them in a real installation. The rating applies only to \\u201cthe box\\u201d itself and does not include most of the energy required to pump water or move air through the system. Depending on the installation, this can increase real operating costs between 20 percent and 100 percent (bringing a rated COP of 5 down to somewhere between 4 and 2.5). Despite marketing claims that GSHPs are \\u201crenewable\\u201d and \\u201cgreen,\\u201d they still run on electricity. Because electric generation and power lines are inefficient, a GSHP may actually be more expensive to run and generate more emissions than a high-efficiency natural gas furnace and AC system. GSHPs are, however, typically cheaper and cleaner than oil or LP gas heat. They are also quite expensive to install; my preference is to invest in a more efficient building enclosure.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6a56\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"dbf320a\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"9d22846\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"e535b22\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"871c427\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Electric-Resistance Heat\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor05\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b3e88de\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Most electric-resistance heating systems are simple electric baseboard heaters. There are also various types of radiant-heat systems (usually panels mounted on ceiling or walls, built into valances, or built into ceiling or wall-finish systems). Cheap to install but expensive to operate, electric-resistance heat operates on the same principle as that of a toaster or hot plate. An electric current passes through a wire element, heating it. Air passes through and is heated by fins in the baseboard. Electric-resistance heat is always 100-percent efficient; every kilowatt-hour of electricity that you pay for is converted to heat. The reason electric baseboards are expensive to operate is that electricity costs two to four times as much as natural gas. One advantage of electric heat is the ease with which rooms can be zoned. But with the high fuel cost and hidden emissions, it\\u2019s difficult to justify except in special situations, such as isolated rooms, or extremely mild climates like southern Florida or Hawaii. Because these systems are so simple, there is very little that can be done to improve their efficiency. Short of supplementing or completely replacing them, the best approach (as always) is to insulate and thoroughly seal the building to reduce heating loads.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25bca46\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic6.png\",\"id\":2085},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"An electric baseboard heater is its own distribution system and is usually precisely in the area where heat is desired, so there are no distribution losses like those found in ductwork.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"16865fd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Supplementing Electric Heat\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3574f96\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>A great way to reduce the cost of electric, LP or oil heat for a reasonable cost is with the installation of a variable speed ductless heat pump. The best systems are rated with an HSPF of 10 to 12, which means they use 65 percent to 70 percent less electricity per unit of delivered heat. Installing a single mini-split to heat a main living area can save 30 percent to 50 percent of a home\\u2019s heating bill (leaving the existing heat for remote rooms in cold weather), at an installed cost of $3,000 to $4,000. Ductless heat pumps also provide air-conditioning much more efficiently than do window units.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a34b211\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7c98\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1456\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1c64\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"5a38\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Hot-Water and Steam Boilers\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor06\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"654a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Boilers, an old standby in the Northeast, are becoming more popular around the country with the advent of radiant, hydro-air, and hybrid systems. Instead of heating air, a boiler heats water. The classic boiler system uses hydronic distribution. Water is heated by the boiler and pumped through pipes to hot-water radiators or baseboard fin-tube convectors to heat the house. Some older systems use a boiler to make steam, which expands to fill steam radiators without the need for a circulator pump. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"10abfe8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basic maintenance\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"387842d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Boiler maintenance is similar to that of a gas or oil furnace, but there is no blower fan to clean. Oil boilers should be serviced once a year, whereas gas boilers should be serviced every two to four years. Any swishing or gurgling sounds that you hear in the radiators indicate air trapped in the system, which reduces heat-exchange efficiency. A service technician can bleed out the air and show you how to do it if it is needed frequently. Occasionally, bleed valves may need to be installed or replaced. The technician should check the hydronic system pressure and expansion tank; the smallest leak anywhere in the system should be repaired immediately to prevent corrosion-causing oxygen from being brought in via makeup water connections.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a3b52bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Boiler controls and upgrades\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"8d5ab32\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"A typical hot-water boiler operates throughout the winter with a water temperature determined by the low-limit setting, a thermostatic switch that senses the water temperature inside the boiler and shuts off the burner when the water is hot enough. Standard boiler controls maintain full boiler temperature throughout the year, which is inefficient but necessary if a tankless coil water heater heats the domestic hot water. In the absence of a tankless coil, efficient boiler controls have a \\u201ccold start\\u201d feature that heats the boiler water only when it\\u2019s needed, and a \\u201cpurge\\u201d control that runs the circulating pump for a few minutes after the boiler shuts off, to extract any heat that remains inside. These controls, often standard or optional on new, high-efficiency models, can also be retrofitted to existing boilers\\u2014but you have to be careful. Cold-start boilers must be protected from condensing on start-up, which may take some extra piping and a thermic valve (made by DanfossR or Termovar) to maintain adequate return-water temperature. Many newer boilers designed for cold starting have this protection built in.\\n\\nAnother improvement for older boilers that don\\u2019t have good controls is a mechanical vent damper. This device closes off the flue pipe after the burner shuts off, stopping the flow of heat through the heat exchanger and up the chimney. It costs $125 to $350 installed. Don\\u2019t use a gravity-actuated vent damper that depends on the heat from the burner to stay open; they are much more likely to malfunction.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"c6c041c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Steam boilers\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"14ff0fc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Steam boilers are very different from hot water boilers. Steam systems were popular in the early 20th century, and many of them are still in service in older homes. Instead of relying on pumps to circulate hot water, steam boilers boil water to create steam. The steam naturally expands to fill all the pipes and radiators in the system, distributing heat throughout the house. Although steam-heat distribution is simple and reliable, steam boilers have a number of unique maintenance and efficiency issues. Most residential steam systems are one-pipe systems. When the thermostat calls for heat, the boiler fires and steam begins expanding to fill the system. As the steam expands, it displaces air contained in the pipes and radiators, and that air must be allowed to escape through air vents typically located on the side of each radiator. Once the steam reaches the radiator, the air vent senses the heat and closes, keeping the steam inside. As the steam emits heat through the radiator, it condenses to water and flows back via gravity through the same pipes to the boiler.\\n\\nAir-venting systems that aren\\u2019t working properly can lead to uneven heating, large temperature fluctuations, and discomfort. A tune-up can increase energy efficiency and comfort dramatically. If the air vents are too small, if there are not enough of them, or if they are clogged with mineral deposits, air gets trapped in the system, and the steam cannot reach its destination. Having a professional replace malfunctioning air vents, add extra vents to radiators, or add special high-volume air vents to large central supply pipes can improve steam-system efficiency by quickly getting the heat where it is needed. Thermostatically controlled vents can reduce the rate of steam delivery to some rooms, reducing overheating and improving overall comfort.\\n\\nA common problem with steam systems is too much pressure. The boiler pressure controls should be set just high enough so that the boiler shuts down just as each radiator fills with steam. Too much steam pressure increases the boiler\\u2019s cycling losses and leads to overheating. That can particularly be a problem if the building envelope\\u2019s efficiency is improved dramatically and\\/or some radiators are removed during remodeling. Timed-cycle controllers vary the boiler cycle length to match the outdoor temperature, further improving the system\\u2019s efficiency.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"705f6bb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"a5d58e6\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"962cc36\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4f84b4b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"b626660\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor07\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"cade1ab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Replacing a heating system with a newer, more efficient system is expensive, so it will typically have a long payback. However, if you have to replace a broken furnace or boiler, it is almost always cost-effective to select a high-efficiency system. However efficient (or inefficient) a house shell is, replacing a furnace from the mid-1980s or earlier with a 95-percent-efficient unit will save between 20 percent and 25 percent of the heating bill. Replacing an old boiler can save even more. On the other hand, if you have a 15-year-old unit that\\u2019s rated between 80-percent and 85-percent efficient, the savings will be much smaller. It\\u2019s probably better to spend your money on other efficiency projects. Finally, if you are planning a series of efficiency improvements to the house, it can be a good idea to complete them before upgrading equipment\\u2014you may be able to save some money by installing a smaller unit. If your existing heating system is functional but appears to be on its last legs, replacing it early can help avoid a big surprise. Deciding, rather than being forced, to replace a system reduces the panic factor and allows for a more reasoned choice. It may even reduce the cost a bit, because it won\\u2019t be an emergency call.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7861759\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Efficiency ratings\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9f83449\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>All new boilers and furnaces have standardized efficiency ratings, just like the gas-mileage ratings on automobiles. When selecting equipment, look for the highest efficiency ratings. Furnaces and boilers use Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE), which accounts for burner efficiency, pilot fuel, and off-cycle losses. New gas furnaces and boilers have AFUEs of 80 per-cent to 97 percent. AFUE ratings are available from manufacturers or at <a href=\\\"http:\\/\\/www.ahridirectory.org\\\">www.ahridirectory.org<\\/a>. Air-source heat pumps are rated using HSPF; GSHPs are rated using COP. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and Department of Energy (DOE) maintain a listing of high-efficiency equipment on their Energy Star website (<a href=\\\"http:\\/\\/www.energystar.gov\\/\\\">www.energystar.gov\\/<\\/a> products); always look for the Energy Star label, which indicates that the equipment meets certain above-minimum efficiency standards set by the government. Remember that the ratings apply to only the equipment. Installation problems, improper maintenance, and distribution problems (such as duct leakage) can reduce performance dramatically. Also remember that there are many products that exceed the Energy Star minimum standards; it\\u2019s still worth shopping for the highest-efficiency unit you can find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"432bc52\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic7.png\",\"id\":2089},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"The yellow Energy Guide label indicates the efficiency rating of new equipment and provides a comparison among similar 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style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3878\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"52b4\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7ebf\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Efficiency Losses in a Heating System<\\/a>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Duct Sealing<\\/a>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Furnaces<\\/a>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Heat Pumps<\\/a>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Electric-Resistance Heat<\\/a>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor06\\\">Hot-Water and Steam Boilers<\\/a>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor07\\\">Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment<\\/a>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5a1\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6edc\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"52ef\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"e34\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Efficiency Losses in a Heating System\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"329c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Not all the energy in the fuel you buy contributes to heating your house. Your heating system\\u2019s efficiency is the amount of useful heat you get as a percentage of purchased energy. Anything less than 100 percent represents waste, or lost efficiency. There are three kinds of heating system losses: combustion loss, cycling loss, and distribution loss. Combustion loss is simply the heat that goes up the chimney; it varies from about 30 percent to as little as 3 percent. That leaves a combustion efficiency between 70 percent and 97 percent; that is, the percentage of the fuel you buy that is converted to heat in the equipment. Combustion efficiency is mostly affected by equipment design; unless the burners are badly out of tune, it can\\u2019t be improved much unless you buy a new unit.\\n\\n Cycling losses occur when the heating equipment starts and stops. Each time the unit shuts off, some heat remains inside; some of that heat goes up the chimney. Cycling losses are affected by the equipment design, location, and controls; some efficiency improvements can be made if the controls are set poorly to begin with. Distribution losses occur when heat generated in the equipment gets out of the house before it reaches its destination. Distribution losses include duct air leaks and conductive losses through uninsulated ducts or pipes. Distribution losses can be significant: 5 percent to 30 percent, so in many homes a large improvement can be made.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6f08\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5a85\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1dfb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Comfort and energy use\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4f60\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Another fairly simple factor that affects heating-system performance is system balancing. Balancing refers to the temperature consistency from one room to the next. If one or more rooms are consistently too cold, people tend to set the thermostat high enough to be comfortable in those rooms. The rest of the house then overheats, using more energy. Balancing problems can be caused by thermal defects in the building, by problems in the distribution system, or by the thermostat location. Rooms that have air leaks, drafts, or missing insulation may lose heat faster than neighboring rooms, or they may just be uncomfortable. Thermal problems should be fixed before addressing the heating system. Once the building enclosure is properly treated, the distribution system can usually be adjusted for better balance.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6d24\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2bf0\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"13d5\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct-Sealing\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"31dc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Air leaks in a duct system can have an enormous effect on your house. Duct leaks rob a furnace, heat pump, or central air system of energy\\u2014 sometimes close to half. Leaks can cause comfort problems, drive moisture flows, and sometimes even lead to dangerous back drafting of combustion equipment. Leaky basement ducts don\\u2019t usually waste much energy; sealing them is pretty easy, but there\\u2019s not much value to it. But ducts located in attics, garages, or vented crawlspaces can be a big energy problem. Sealing them can be the biggest opportunity for energy savings in many homes. Leaky ducts do more than let heat out. They also increase the air exchange in a house by 30 percent to 300 percent whenever the air handler is running. That is why furnaces have the reputation for drying out houses. Return leaks in a mechanical room or basement can backdraft a nearby water heater or even the furnace itself. Return leaks can also draw in radon gas, water vapor, subsoil pesticides, or airborne mold spores, distributing them throughout the house.<\\/p><p>Supply air leaking into an attic or enclosed cathedral ceiling cavity can deliver moisture at an accelerated rate to cold roof sheathing, causing condensation. If the ducts also carry central air-conditioning, return leaks can bring in outdoor humidity in the summer, reducing cooling efficiency, and leaks can draw outside air into building cavities, where moisture can lead to mold inside the house. Duct leaks are even more important than shell air leaks: Each hole and crack is under pressure from the furnace fan and leaks the hot air from your furnace (or cold air from your air conditioner).<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"582f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic1.png\",\"id\":2076},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"It\\u2019s important to peel back the insulation and vapor jacket to seal the duct connections. The black stains are from the air leaks.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"4896792\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Return ducts can be a bigger challenge. Return systems are frequently patched together using a combination of plywood, sheet metal, joist or wall cavities, and a lot of wishful thinking. Many HVAC installers don\\u2019t pay much attention to returns, focusing mostly on supplies that get the air to where it\\u2019s supposed to go. But well-sealed returns are important for furnace efficiency, occupant health and safety, and building durability. Fortunately, it\\u2019s not typically necessary to seal ducts that are buried inside interior wall and floor cavities. However, you do want to ensure that those cavities don\\u2019t leak to outside spaces; if they do, seal those leaks at the thermal boundary to keep the ducts and the indoor air inside.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"cab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct insulation\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7ee\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Ductwork that runs through unconditioned space should be insulated, if it is not already. Typically, supply ducts are insulated but often have weak spots at register boots and other major connections. Often, return ductwork is left uninsulated.<\\/p><p>Ducts should be insulated with vinyl-faced fiberglass wrap; R-6 is the minimum allowed by current residential codes; R-8 is required for supply ducts in attics. If possible, attic ducts should have higher R-values. Think about it: In winter, attic temperatures are nearly as cold as outdoors; in summer (for air-conditioning ducts), they are often much hotter than outdoors. If the ducts are close to the attic floor, cover them completely with loose-fill insulation. If that is not possible, try to find R-10 or higher duct wrap. Of course, seal all the duct connections tightly before insulating.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6e76\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6100\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"686f\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"474f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7f67\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnaces\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6380\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The furnace is by far the most common type of heating system in the country. In fact, it\\u2019s so common that many people use the word furnace to describe any type of heating equipment. Furnaces create heat by burning fuel, usually natural gas. Oil and liquefied petroleum (LP, or propane) gas are also used in areas where piped gas is unavailable. By contrast, heat pumps and electric furnaces use electricity to heat the air; they also use a duct system to deliver heat, but they are not furnaces and do not have a fuel supply, chimney, or vent pipe. Boilers burn gas or oil but create hot water or steam instead of warm air. Furnace efficiency can be improved by performing regular maintenance, improving airflow, adjusting control settings, and sealing leaky ductwork.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a91f30b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic2.jpg\",\"id\":2077},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"3182\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Regular maintenance\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3a47\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Regular furnace maintenance is important to keep things running well, just as with any machine, but tune-ups and filter replacements don\\u2019t really save energy. Be sure to change the filter once or twice a year; more frequently is not much benefit because filters actually work better once some dust has built up on them. If the filter never gets dirty, however, then you may have a duct leak that is causing a loss of efficiency. Keeping registers open and free of obstructions may help your comfort, but this also won\\u2019t affect your energy bills noticeably.<\\/p><p>\\u00a0<\\/p><p>If you have a gas furnace, you should have it cleaned and tuned every two to four years. An oil burner should be tuned every year. Don\\u2019t wait until cold weather hits\\u2014that\\u2019s when the service companies are busy. You may get a better price if you get the tune-up in the spring.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"628b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic3.png\",\"id\":2078},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"Air filters should be replaced occasionally for best furnace performance. This pleated filter is more effective than the standard cheap fiberglass filter, and it doesn\\u2019t cost much more.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"1138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Low airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"135\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Low airflow can also reduce furnace efficiency. It can be caused by clogged air-conditioning coils, low fan speed settings, loose fan drive belts, undersized ductwork, or duct obstructions. Sometimes airflow is low to one room or section of the house, causing discomfort. Diagnosing low airflow is complex, but once identified, the fixes are usually fairly easy and inexpensive. These improvements are probably better left to a professional, but it\\u2019s good to be informed, because many technicians don\\u2019t bother checking airflow. If a service person is unable to explain in sensible terms what is happening in your system, you may want to get an opinion from another technician.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25e6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnace Tune-Up\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5fc9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"A professional tune-up for a gas furnace includes cleaning the burner and heat exchanger, checking the adjustment of air and fuel flow, cleaning and checking the heat exchanger for leaks, and testing draft pressure and carbon monoxide levels. The air-handler fan should be cleaned and lubricated as needed, once every two or three tune-ups. In addition, internal controls may be checked and adjusted if necessary. Don\\u2019t expect any real energy savings from a gas furnace tune-up; every two to four years is often enough. Oil burners are more finicky than gas burners. Most oil furnaces benefit from annual professional service; fuel filters, burner nozzles, electrodes, combustion chamber, heat exchanger, and flue pipe all need regular cleaning and adjustment. Checking heat exchangers and testing combustion efficiency are also useful. Try to find a technician who is knowledgeable, methodical, and thorough. If you have an oil furnace, the service technician might also recommend installing a smaller oil nozzle. This can reduce the heat output of the furnace, better matching it to the house and increasing operating efficiency slightly.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"9578043\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Furnace control settings\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9ea347a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>The furnace controls can also have an impact on efficiency. The blower control, located above the heat exchanger, turns on the blower when it senses heat from the burner. The fan-on temperature should be set so the blower comes on between 90\\u00b0F and 105\\u00b0F; if it\\u2019s set too high, the burner will fire for a long time before the fan comes on, letting excess heat go up the chimney. If it\\u2019s set too low, the circulating air may feel uncomfortably cool.<\\/p><p>\\u00a0<\\/p><p>The fan-off temperature must be slightly lower than the fan-on temperature: between 85\\u00b0F and 100\\u00b0F. The lower it is set, the longer the fan will run at the end of the cycle when the thermostat turns off the burners, moving residual heat from the heat exchanger to your house. If your fan-on and fan-off temperatures are fixed (rather than adjustable) and set too high, the control can be replaced. Note that the temperature markings on adjustable controls are often poorly calibrated. Verify the actual fan-on and fan-off temperatures with a thermometer in the supply plenum.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5fdc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2ddf\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"20d1\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7e09\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6857\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat Pumps\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2ae9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Air-source heat pumps, popular in some parts of the country, are basically air conditioners that can work in reverse to deliver heat into the house in winter. Heat pumps provide heating and cooling in one machine, with one duct system and no combustion. Heat pumps are not subject to backdrafting, combustion air requirements, or some of the offcycle losses to which furnaces are prone. Because they use ducts to deliver warm air to the house, heat pump ducts in attics, garages, and crawlspaces must be sealed thoroughly and insulated well. Heat pumps are more prone to airflow problems than furnaces are, and improper refrigerant charging can have a negative impact on both heating and cooling efficiency. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"17ee\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Operating efficiency and resistance heating\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4720\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat pumps are rated using Heating System Performance Factor, or HSPF. An HSPF of 6.8 corresponds to an efficiency of 200 percent. Most new heat pumps vary from 7.3 to about 10 HSPF; the larger the number, the more efficient the unit. An HSPF of 10 is approximately equal to 290-percent efficient\\u2014for every kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity you buy, you get almost 3 kWh of heat delivered to your house. How can a heat pump generate more energy than it consumes? The difference is made up by heat energy absorbed from the outdoor air. That energy goes into the system; because it\\u2019s free, it\\u2019s not counted in the measurement of efficiency. Most heat pumps, by themselves, operate at reasonable efficiencies until outside air temperatures drop to about 35\\u00b0F to 40\\u00b0F. As the outdoor air gets colder, less heat is available, and the heat pump output drops off, even as the house needs more heat. So cold-weather performance is typically supplemented with electric-resistance backup heaters. This auxiliary heat costs about three times more per unit of heat than the compressor heating cycle. That may be fine in regions with long summers, mild winters, and relatively low electric rates, but it\\u2019s not in much of the North, where electricity is expensive and winters are cold. One fairly inexpensive way to reduce the use of electric-resistance heating is to install an outdoor cutout thermostat. For about $100 to $150 installed, this device locks out the supplemental electric heat when the outdoor air temperature is above 30\\u00b0F or 35\\u00b0F.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5977\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7a9c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat pumps are even more sensitive to airflow than furnaces are. Heat pumps need to move a larger volume of air, but installers who are used to working with furnaces sometimes skimp on duct sizing, leading to low-airflow problems. Unfortunately, checking the airflow of a heat pump is not as easy as checking that of a furnace. It can be done with special instruments or with a version of the temperature-rise method used with the electric-resistance backup heat. Don\\u2019t attempt to take these measurements unless you understand exactly what you are doing\\u2014if you aren\\u2019t sure, get a service technician to do it for you. For best efficiency, heat pump airflow should be 375 CFM to 425 CFM per ton of heating capacity. It should never be below 300 CFM per ton. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour, and equipment is typically rated in increments of 1\\u20442 ton, such as \\u201c24\\u201d (\\u00d71,000 Btu, or 2 tons), \\u201c30\\u201d (21\\u20442 tons), \\u201c36\\u201d (3 tons), etc.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a563a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Refrigerant charge\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1d32d86\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Older heat pumps are also finicky about refrigerant charge. Many heat pumps, even when serviced regularly, are either over- or undercharged, which has a negative impact on efficiency. Unfortunately, many service technicians don\\u2019t take the time to diagnose or correct those problems; they typically get the system working and move on to the next service call. To measure charge correctly, airflow must be in the recommended range, and few technicians test airflow as a matter of course. There are very specific ways to measure refrigerant charge during unit operation. Depending on the type of unit, the superheat or subcooling must be measured carefully, as it is for an air conditioner. There are also several automated systems on the market today that trained technicians can use to analyze heat pump operation. Newer high-efficiency models should also be properly charged, but they are more forgiving of varying charge conditions and their efficiency doesn\\u2019t suffer as much.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"10b1fd1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat pump service\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"e514960\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Like furnaces, heat pumps should be serviced regularly. Basic service can be done by anyone. Air filters should be replaced once or twice a year, as needed, and the outdoor coil should be kept free of snow and debris. Regular service calls\\u2014 typically every two to three years\\u2014should include testing the controls, cleaning the blower and both the indoor and the outdoor coils as needed, and checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines. To service your heat pump, try to find a contractor whose technicians are certified by North American Technician Excellence (NATE, see www.hvacradvice.com), or who demonstrates a commitment to attending manufacturers\\u2019 programs frequently. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing airflow problems, then carefully measuring and correcting refrigerant charge. Once that has been done, service technicians generally should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless the system performance drops off or there is other evidence that something is wrong. Refrigerant does not escape unless there is a leak.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"de2ded1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic4.png\",\"id\":2079},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"26e4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heatin_Pic5.png\",\"id\":2080},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"06769f8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ductless Heat Pumps\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5e85b4a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ductless heat pumps, often called minisplit heat pumps, are available in higher heating (and cooling) efficiencies than just about any other heat pumps on the market. The most efficient ones use an inverter-driven compressor, and variable speed fans that run continuously at a low speed to match the load in the house and minimize noise. One outdoor unit may be used with one or more indoor units that deliver heat and cooling to the house. Each indoor unit connects to the outdoor unit with a small bundle of pipes and wires that carry refrigerant and electricity, so there are no duct losses. Some models are designed for cold climate operation and maintain a high heating capacity and decent efficiency near 0\\u00b0F. A single mini-split makes a great heating and cooling system for a single-room addition or a deep energy remodel, or to offset electric resistance, oil, or LP gas heat.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"74415b8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ground-source heat pumps\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b12d517\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ground-source heat pumps (or GSHPs; often called geothermal heat pumps) extract heat from the earth or from underground water, rather than from outdoor air. Because temperatures are more stable underground, GSHP systems theoretically have much higher heating efficiencies than air-source heat pumps; rated Coefficient of Performance (COPs) range from about 3 to 5 (300 percent to 500 percent). There are two basic types of GSHP systems. Closed-loop (ground-loop) systems are usually more efficient but can be more expensive to install. Open-loop (groundwater or water source) systems usually cost less to install but can cost more to run, due to the power consumption of a large well pump that\\u2019s often required for these systems. A third type of GSHP, called direct exchange (DX), uses a copper pipe ground loop to circulate refrigerant underground. Their long-term reliability is less clear than that of closed loop water-based systems. Like air-source heat pumps, ground-source heat pumps can be cost-effective in regions with mild or hot climates and moderate electric rates, especially in areas where installation costs are modest. However, in regions with cold climates and high electric rates, they generally do not provide enough savings to justify the high installation cost. Ground-source heat pumps can also have very high cooling efficiencies. The heating capacity of GSHPs is much better in cold weather than that of conventional air-source heat pumps, so there is typically little or no need for supplemental electric heat. Closed-loop systems need little or no maintenance, but open-loop systems may have water-quality issues, filters that need replacing, and well pumps with shortened life expectancies.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"ad52eba\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Ground-Source Heat Pump Efficiency\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"ccb4742\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Efficiency ratings for GSHPs come in three flavors: water loop, ground loop, and ground water. \\u201cWater loop\\u201d is used for commercial systems; \\u201cground loop\\u201d is used for closed loops; and \\u201cground water\\u201d for open loops. All of them rate the heating efficiency using a Coefficient of Performance, which is the ratio of heat out to electricity in: A COP of 3 represents a heating efficiency of 300 percent. There\\u2019s a trick to the GSHP performance ratings: You can\\u2019t achieve them in a real installation. The rating applies only to \\u201cthe box\\u201d itself and does not include most of the energy required to pump water or move air through the system. Depending on the installation, this can increase real operating costs between 20 percent and 100 percent (bringing a rated COP of 5 down to somewhere between 4 and 2.5). Despite marketing claims that GSHPs are \\u201crenewable\\u201d and \\u201cgreen,\\u201d they still run on electricity. Because electric generation and power lines are inefficient, a GSHP may actually be more expensive to run and generate more emissions than a high-efficiency natural gas furnace and AC system. GSHPs are, however, typically cheaper and cleaner than oil or LP gas heat. They are also quite expensive to install; my preference is to invest in a more efficient building enclosure.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6a56\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"dbf320a\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"9d22846\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"e535b22\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"871c427\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Electric-Resistance Heat\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor05\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b3e88de\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Most electric-resistance heating systems are simple electric baseboard heaters. There are also various types of radiant-heat systems (usually panels mounted on ceiling or walls, built into valances, or built into ceiling or wall-finish systems). Cheap to install but expensive to operate, electric-resistance heat operates on the same principle as that of a toaster or hot plate. An electric current passes through a wire element, heating it. Air passes through and is heated by fins in the baseboard. Electric-resistance heat is always 100-percent efficient; every kilowatt-hour of electricity that you pay for is converted to heat. The reason electric baseboards are expensive to operate is that electricity costs two to four times as much as natural gas. One advantage of electric heat is the ease with which rooms can be zoned. But with the high fuel cost and hidden emissions, it\\u2019s difficult to justify except in special situations, such as isolated rooms, or extremely mild climates like southern Florida or Hawaii. Because these systems are so simple, there is very little that can be done to improve their efficiency. Short of supplementing or completely replacing them, the best approach (as always) is to insulate and thoroughly seal the building to reduce heating loads.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"25bca46\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic6.png\",\"id\":2085},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"An electric baseboard heater is its own distribution system and is usually precisely in the area where heat is desired, so there are no distribution losses like those found in ductwork.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"16865fd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Supplementing Electric Heat\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3574f96\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>A great way to reduce the cost of electric, LP or oil heat for a reasonable cost is with the installation of a variable speed ductless heat pump. The best systems are rated with an HSPF of 10 to 12, which means they use 65 percent to 70 percent less electricity per unit of delivered heat. Installing a single mini-split to heat a main living area can save 30 percent to 50 percent of a home\\u2019s heating bill (leaving the existing heat for remote rooms in cold weather), at an installed cost of $3,000 to $4,000. Ductless heat pumps also provide air-conditioning much more efficiently than do window units.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a34b211\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7c98\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1456\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1c64\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"5a38\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Hot-Water and Steam Boilers\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor06\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"654a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Boilers, an old standby in the Northeast, are becoming more popular around the country with the advent of radiant, hydro-air, and hybrid systems. Instead of heating air, a boiler heats water. The classic boiler system uses hydronic distribution. Water is heated by the boiler and pumped through pipes to hot-water radiators or baseboard fin-tube convectors to heat the house. Some older systems use a boiler to make steam, which expands to fill steam radiators without the need for a circulator pump. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"10abfe8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Basic maintenance\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"387842d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Boiler maintenance is similar to that of a gas or oil furnace, but there is no blower fan to clean. Oil boilers should be serviced once a year, whereas gas boilers should be serviced every two to four years. Any swishing or gurgling sounds that you hear in the radiators indicate air trapped in the system, which reduces heat-exchange efficiency. A service technician can bleed out the air and show you how to do it if it is needed frequently. Occasionally, bleed valves may need to be installed or replaced. The technician should check the hydronic system pressure and expansion tank; the smallest leak anywhere in the system should be repaired immediately to prevent corrosion-causing oxygen from being brought in via makeup water connections.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"a3b52bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Boiler controls and upgrades\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"8d5ab32\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"A typical hot-water boiler operates throughout the winter with a water temperature determined by the low-limit setting, a thermostatic switch that senses the water temperature inside the boiler and shuts off the burner when the water is hot enough. Standard boiler controls maintain full boiler temperature throughout the year, which is inefficient but necessary if a tankless coil water heater heats the domestic hot water. In the absence of a tankless coil, efficient boiler controls have a \\u201ccold start\\u201d feature that heats the boiler water only when it\\u2019s needed, and a \\u201cpurge\\u201d control that runs the circulating pump for a few minutes after the boiler shuts off, to extract any heat that remains inside. These controls, often standard or optional on new, high-efficiency models, can also be retrofitted to existing boilers\\u2014but you have to be careful. Cold-start boilers must be protected from condensing on start-up, which may take some extra piping and a thermic valve (made by DanfossR or Termovar) to maintain adequate return-water temperature. Many newer boilers designed for cold starting have this protection built in.\\n\\nAnother improvement for older boilers that don\\u2019t have good controls is a mechanical vent damper. This device closes off the flue pipe after the burner shuts off, stopping the flow of heat through the heat exchanger and up the chimney. It costs $125 to $350 installed. Don\\u2019t use a gravity-actuated vent damper that depends on the heat from the burner to stay open; they are much more likely to malfunction.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"c6c041c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Steam boilers\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"14ff0fc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Steam boilers are very different from hot water boilers. Steam systems were popular in the early 20th century, and many of them are still in service in older homes. Instead of relying on pumps to circulate hot water, steam boilers boil water to create steam. The steam naturally expands to fill all the pipes and radiators in the system, distributing heat throughout the house. Although steam-heat distribution is simple and reliable, steam boilers have a number of unique maintenance and efficiency issues. Most residential steam systems are one-pipe systems. When the thermostat calls for heat, the boiler fires and steam begins expanding to fill the system. As the steam expands, it displaces air contained in the pipes and radiators, and that air must be allowed to escape through air vents typically located on the side of each radiator. Once the steam reaches the radiator, the air vent senses the heat and closes, keeping the steam inside. As the steam emits heat through the radiator, it condenses to water and flows back via gravity through the same pipes to the boiler.\\n\\nAir-venting systems that aren\\u2019t working properly can lead to uneven heating, large temperature fluctuations, and discomfort. A tune-up can increase energy efficiency and comfort dramatically. If the air vents are too small, if there are not enough of them, or if they are clogged with mineral deposits, air gets trapped in the system, and the steam cannot reach its destination. Having a professional replace malfunctioning air vents, add extra vents to radiators, or add special high-volume air vents to large central supply pipes can improve steam-system efficiency by quickly getting the heat where it is needed. Thermostatically controlled vents can reduce the rate of steam delivery to some rooms, reducing overheating and improving overall comfort.\\n\\nA common problem with steam systems is too much pressure. The boiler pressure controls should be set just high enough so that the boiler shuts down just as each radiator fills with steam. Too much steam pressure increases the boiler\\u2019s cycling losses and leads to overheating. That can particularly be a problem if the building envelope\\u2019s efficiency is improved dramatically and\\/or some radiators are removed during remodeling. Timed-cycle controllers vary the boiler cycle length to match the outdoor temperature, further improving the system\\u2019s efficiency.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"705f6bb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"a5d58e6\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"962cc36\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4f84b4b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"b626660\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor07\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"cade1ab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Replacing a heating system with a newer, more efficient system is expensive, so it will typically have a long payback. However, if you have to replace a broken furnace or boiler, it is almost always cost-effective to select a high-efficiency system. However efficient (or inefficient) a house shell is, replacing a furnace from the mid-1980s or earlier with a 95-percent-efficient unit will save between 20 percent and 25 percent of the heating bill. Replacing an old boiler can save even more. On the other hand, if you have a 15-year-old unit that\\u2019s rated between 80-percent and 85-percent efficient, the savings will be much smaller. It\\u2019s probably better to spend your money on other efficiency projects. Finally, if you are planning a series of efficiency improvements to the house, it can be a good idea to complete them before upgrading equipment\\u2014you may be able to save some money by installing a smaller unit. If your existing heating system is functional but appears to be on its last legs, replacing it early can help avoid a big surprise. Deciding, rather than being forced, to replace a system reduces the panic factor and allows for a more reasoned choice. It may even reduce the cost a bit, because it won\\u2019t be an emergency call.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7861759\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Efficiency ratings\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9f83449\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>All new boilers and furnaces have standardized efficiency ratings, just like the gas-mileage ratings on automobiles. When selecting equipment, look for the highest efficiency ratings. Furnaces and boilers use Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE), which accounts for burner efficiency, pilot fuel, and off-cycle losses. New gas furnaces and boilers have AFUEs of 80 per-cent to 97 percent. AFUE ratings are available from manufacturers or at <a href=\\\"http:\\/\\/www.ahridirectory.org\\\">www.ahridirectory.org<\\/a>. Air-source heat pumps are rated using HSPF; GSHPs are rated using COP. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and Department of Energy (DOE) maintain a listing of high-efficiency equipment on their Energy Star website (<a href=\\\"http:\\/\\/www.energystar.gov\\/\\\">www.energystar.gov\\/<\\/a> products); always look for the Energy Star label, which indicates that the equipment meets certain above-minimum efficiency standards set by the government. Remember that the ratings apply to only the equipment. Installation problems, improper maintenance, and distribution problems (such as duct leakage) can reduce performance dramatically. Also remember that there are many products that exceed the Energy Star minimum standards; it\\u2019s still worth shopping for the highest-efficiency unit you can find.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"432bc52\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Heating_Pic7.png\",\"id\":2089},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"350\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"The yellow Energy Guide label indicates the efficiency rating of new equipment and provides a comparison among similar 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style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open 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And Upgrades<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">New Air-Conditioning Systems<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"44bc\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1f54\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"d8c4e61\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7ef8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Cooling Basics\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5721\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads\\u2014and bills\\u2014benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"14ad\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"110c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"16ab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Where does the heat come from?\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"c99\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it\\u2019s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \\n\\nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it\\u2019s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"eaea1d5\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4f5bb73\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3141f9a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"How air conditioners work\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b90e1e9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Virtually all residential air-conditioning systems use a compressor-driven refrigerant vapor cycle to cool house air. The compressor cycle controls refrigerant temperatures in the condenser and evaporator coils, which absorb heat from indoor air at a low temperature, then reject it outdoors at a higher temperature. Air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators all use the refrigerant vapor cycle to essentially push heat uphill, from a cooler place to a warmer place. An air conditioner pushes heat from the cool indoors to the hot outdoors, cooling the interior. In addition to sending indoor heat outdoors, an air conditioner must also reject the heat generated by the compressor and fan motors.\\n\\nAnother aspect of air conditioners is their ability to dehumidify, as well as cool, indoor air. This happens when water condenses on the cold fins of the evaporator coil as humid air passes across them. Dehumidification is an important component in maintaining healthy indoor air quality and comfort. Water that is evaporated in air contains quite a bit of heat energy, which must be accounted for in the system\\u2019s design. The energy required to remove excess humidity is called latent load, and it comes from moisture sources within the home and, in humid climates, outdoor air leaking indoors.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2ede\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"417a\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7f8a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"4bd1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing Loads\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4181\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"With cooling, just as with heating, as the loads are reduced you spend less to stay comfortable. Think of the air conditioner as removing heat that builds up, rather than \\u201ccooling down\\u201d the house. The better you are at preventing heat from building up, the less heat your air conditioner must remove and the less time it will have to run\\u2014saving you money. There are two approaches to reducing cooling loads: reducing\\nyour need for cooling and reducing heat gains in your house.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"78db\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reduce the need for cooling\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"769\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"One surefire way to cut cooling costs is to use your air conditioner less. A house with more insulation, better windows, and less air leakage is comfortable with no air-conditioning for more of the summer. Setting the thermostat higher, particularly when the house is empty, reduces the system\\u2019s run time and saves energy. \\n\\nFans can also help raise the temperature at which you feel comfortable. By installing an efficient ceiling fan and keeping the air moving in occupied rooms, most people can comfort- ably increase the temperature setting of their thermostat by 4\\u00b0F to 6\\u00b0F, saving 20 percent to 35 percent on their cooling bills. Fan flow\\nshould point downward to maximize the feeling of air movement in the room. Oscillating and box fans can also provide portable comfort. When using any type of indoor fan, remember that it will keep people cool only while they are in the room. Turn off fans when you are not using them, because they generate heat.\\n\\nCeiling-mounted whole-house fans that exhaust into the attic are another popular method to reduce the need for cooling, but they must be used properly to be effective. Air leaks between the attic and house must be sealed, and the attic must be well vented to the exterior, to ensure that the fan exhaust goes outdoors rather than back into the house.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1d03\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5a17\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct insulation and sealing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2423\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Air-conditioning ducts have the same leakage and insulation issues as those of heating ducts. In fact, leaks and missing insulation in attic ductwork hurt air-conditioning systems more than heating systems, because during peak cooling times attics are usually much hotter than outdoor ambient temperatures. All air conditioning ducts in attics, crawlspaces, and garages should be thoroughly sealed and insulated\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"36b9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"66a\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"65ff\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"532c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"207e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Maintenance and Upgrades\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4ac7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Like most other equipment, air conditioners need regular maintenance and service. Some things you can probably do yourself, whereas others require a professional technician.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1263\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3099\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Like heat pumps and furnaces, air-conditioning systems depend on adequate airflow to remove heat efficiently from your house. Whether you have a central air conditioner or individual room units, check the filters regularly and clean or replace them when they are dirty\\u2014 once or twice a season should be adequate. Because airflow is important, do not shut off any of the supply registers in the system\\u2014\\nespecially if the ducts are located in an attic, garage, or crawlspace.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4bf1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Cleaning air coils\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3d3e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"When filters don\\u2019t work properly or air gets around them, the evaporator coil can become clogged with dirt and dust. Depending on the system, you may need a service technician to access the coil. If you can reach it yourself, lift the dirt from behind with a stiff brush. Be careful not to drive dirt further in or bend the fins. The outdoor condenser coil should also be kept clean and free of dirt and debris. Don\\u2019t spray water directly at the coil, which may drive dirt deeper into the space between the fins. Instead, using a long-bristle brush with flexible bristles, carefully insert the bristles between the fins, and lift the dirt from behind. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1f3b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Regular service\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5549\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Regular service calls\\u2014typically every two to three years\\u2014should include testing the controls, checking and cleaning the blower, condenser, and evaporator coils as needed, checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines, and checking the condensate drain. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing any airflow problems, and then carefully measuring and correcting the refrigerant charge. Like a heat pump, once that has been done, service technicians should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless there is evidence that something is wrong. Like a heat pump, an over- or undercharged air conditioner is less efficient (particularly older models), and systems are often improperly charged. Airflow must be in the recommended range of 400 CFM to 425 CFM per ton before the refrigerant charge can be measured. \\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2bf4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":\"\",\"url\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It\\u2019s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"d1fe686\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5975\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2b34\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"788\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"4b23\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"New Air-Conditioning Systems\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"637a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you live in a hot climate and have central air conditioning that is 20 years old or more, replacing your system with a new, energy-efficient model should pay for itself in a reasonable time. High-efficiency systems on the market today are more than twice as efficient as systems from the 1980s. But before running out and replacing your system, you will first need to do two other things: Finish any upgrades on the building enclosure, and become familiar with air conditioning products and installation criteria. Of course, if you have a fairly new system (less than 10 years old), it is probably more cost effective to maintain it and keep it running as efficiently as possible until it wears out. As always, energy-efficient upgrades always cost the least when you are fixing or replacing something anyway. If your old air conditioner is on its last legs or not operating, replace it with the most efficient unit you can find.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6ef2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"High-efficiency air-conditioning\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1545\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"New central air conditioners are rated for energy performance with a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER). SEER ratings are measurements under standardized test conditions of Btu per hour of cooling output, divided by input watts. The higher the SEER, the more efficient the system. New central air conditioners are required to have a SEER rating of at least 13; the most efficient units have SEER ratings from 16 to 23. Some of the best high efficiency systems have two-speed compressors; the lower speed provides better, more efficient cooling and dehumidification under mild, part load conditions. When you are replacing a central air conditioning unit with a more efficient one, it\\u2019s very important to match the new outdoor unit and the indoor evaporator coil. You may be able to save some money on the installation by keeping your old coil but be careful: you\\u2019re unlikely to get the full efficiency ratings of the new unit. If you get a proposal to replace only the outdoor unit, the contractor should be able to demonstrate that the existing indoor coil is listed for use with the new outdoor unit; don\\u2019t accept \\u201cdon\\u2019t worry, it\\u2019s fine the way it is\\u201d as an answer.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3586\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sizing a system\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"12c6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Proper sizing has been emphasized as a key efficiency issue for years in the energy-efficiency world, but there\\u2019s little evidence that it affects operating costs very much. Duct leakage and insulation in unconditioned spaces are far more important, especially with modern, high efficiency equipment. \\n\\nOversized air conditioners do cost more to buy and maintain and require more airflow and larger ductwork. Dehumidification, which depends on air flowing through the evaporator coil for enough time to extract condensed moisture, is one important reason to carefully size an air conditioning system in humid climates. When an oversized system runs for only a few minutes, the moisture may just start to collect on the coils before the thermostat is satisfied. Once the unit shuts down, the moisture re-evaporates into the house. An air conditioner that is too large by 50 percent to 100 percent will be unable to control humidity effectively, so people may tend to set the thermostat lower to compensate. Many new, efficient air conditioners have multiple speeds or special dehumidification modes that can effectively compensate for oversizing; if you are in a humid climate, consider one of these features, or get a stand-alone dehumidifier.\\n\\nCorrect load calculations are based on your home\\u2019s window size, the glass type, and the size and R-values of the walls and roof. The proper size also varies with the direction the home faces: Sometimes a 90-degree rotation can cut the cooling load in half. If a contractor gives you a price for an air conditioner on the phone, or simply offers to replace the existing unit with a new one of the same size, get a bid from someone else, especially if you have already made energy improvements in your house. The money\\nyou save by buying a smaller unit may pay for an efficiency upgrade.\\n\\nWhen installing a new air conditioner, shop for value, not just for price. Other things to look for when assessing bids on new air-conditioning equipment include the warranties (from both the manufacturer and the installer), service contracts, longevity of the business, customer references, and technician knowledge. Try to find a contractor who is an Energy Star partner and\\/or NATE certified, or regularly attends manufacturer\\u2019s trainings.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"19ef\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"830f179\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ductless mini-split air conditioners are a great alternative to window units. They are more efficient and quieter, and they don\\u2019t use up a window (or allow air leakage). The most efficient units on the market are\\nalso heat pumps that can save money on your heating bills, too. A mini-split costs about 10 times as much as a decent window unit, but may cost a third to a half as much as retrofitting central air into an existing 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& Lighting<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances\\u2019 energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3198\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"c75\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"19323f4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Reducing Run Time<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Improving Efficiency<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Buying Appliances<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Smart Shopping for New Appliances<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Lighting<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"24d0\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"17d5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"28bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6c51\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing Run Time\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"507f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don\\u2019t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It\\u2019s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back\\nwhen temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more\\u2014provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don\\u2019t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative\\nhumidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5965\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"e78bebe\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4225\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7543\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2fae\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"3426\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Improving Efficiency\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b2e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"It\\u2019s also possible to improve the efficiency of some appliances. Efficiency can often be increased by simple maintenance or by choosing the proper settings when using appliances.\\nRefrigeration The refrigerator is typically the biggest electricity user in the kitchen and is often the largest in the house. If your refrigerator is getting old, it\\u2019s probably worth replacing it with a new Energy Star model. New, efficient refrigerators use less than half the energy of standard models before 1993. If you are lucky enough to have a refrigerator that dates back to the 1970s or early 1980s and it still runs, take it\\nto the recycle center. Even if it\\u2019s the spare in the basement or garage, the energy savings will pay\\nfor a brand-new unit in just a few years. And buy the smallest, simplest fridge that will meet your\\nneeds; large Energy Star models use more electricity than smaller ones; through-door ice and\\nwater also use energy.\\n\\n To keep any refrigerator running right, ensure adequate air circulation around the unit. Keep it a few inches away from the wall, and don\\u2019t box it in with cabinets. It\\u2019s a good idea to vacuum the grill periodically, but there is no evidence that vacuuming dust off the coils inside actually saves electricity. Make sure the door seals are tight, keep the unit away from heat sources (don\\u2019t put it next\\nto the stove or dishwasher) and check the temperature setting. The refrigerator compartments\\nshould stay between 38\\u00b0F and 42\\u00b0F, and the freezer between 0\\u00b0F and 5\\u00b0F. If you have a power-saving switch, use it. Typically, the switch disables internal heaters that fight condensation; turn it off only if condensation occurs. Finally, keep refrigerators and freezers reasonably full; they are less efficient when they are nearly empty. Even more important, avoid the temptation to keep the old fridge in the garage\\nor basement for overflow (or the odd six-pack). Buying a new, highly efficient refrigerator won\\u2019t save any energy if you keep the old one running!\\n\\nIt\\u2019s a common mistake to assume that if the fridge is only keeping a few items cold it\\u2019s not working very hard. A refrigerator uses most of its energy keeping the inside of the box cold\\u2014even if it\\u2019s completely empty. If you can\\u2019t do without it, unplug the spare until you need it to stock up for that holiday gathering. One more buying tip: A manual-defrost chest freezer uses far less energy than an upright, auto-defrost\\nunit. Modern, airtight chest freezers rarely need defrosting, and are less likely to damage food\\nwith freezer burn.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4cbe\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5c5\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2664\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"23c0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5236\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"31c9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"0d42bd8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Buying Appliances\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"e23d211\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Laundry\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"182f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Washing clothes uses energy in three ways: Washers and dryers have motors that move clothes and water; washers use hot water, which is heated with gas or electricity; and dryers heat clothes to dry them out. When you do a load of laundry, pay attention to the washer settings. Always use a cold-water rinse, and use a warm or cold wash for loads when you can. A warm\\/ cold cycle uses about half as much total energy as a hot\\/cold cycle. Also, pay attention to the size of the load; fill, but don\\u2019t overload, the machine for best efficiency. If you do run a smaller load, set the wash level appropriately. The settings on your washer also affect drying time. Use the fastest spin setting whenever you can, to remove the most water.\\n\\n For dryer efficiency, keep the lint filter clean, and check the outlet periodically for lint that may be clogging the vent. If your dryer hose is kinked, twisted, or too long, replace it with as short and direct a run as possible, preferably with a straight sheet-metal duct instead of a flexible vinyl or aluminum duct. Try to run several loads in succession to take advantage of retained heat, and fill, but don\\u2019t overload, the machine. Of course, if the weather\\u2019s good, you can also dry clothes outside on a line. \\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"0ee8b16\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Dishwasher\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"068c9e0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"You can minimize dishwasher energy by paying attention to the settings. Don\\u2019t use the \\u201cHeavy\\u201d or \\u201cPots and Pans\\u201d cycle unless you really need to. A fast scraping or rinsing of dishes (especially starchy stuff) does help the dishwasher do a better job, so you can use the \\u201cLight\\u201d setting. But always use cold water for pre-rinsing. Use a premium dishwasher detergent, and let the dishwasher do the job it\\u2019s designed for: cutting grease. Wait until the machine is full before using it: It uses the same amount of energy whether you wash one dish or thirty. Many new dishwashers have sensors that stop the machine as particulates in the water clear (indicating that the dishes are clean). If you don\\u2019t have to take the dishes out right away, you can run the machine with the \\u201cAir-Dry\\u201d setting (sometimes called \\u201cEnergy Saver\\u201d).\\nIt\\u2019s okay to use the dishwasher: In fact, research shows that even careful hand washing uses more hot water and soap than a modern dishwasher. And today\\u2019s very efficient dishwashers are reasonably priced\\u2014there are Energy Star\\u2013rated dishwashers at every point in the price spectrum.\\nsize of the load; fill, but don\\u2019t overload, the machine for best efficiency. If you do run a smaller load, set the wash level appropriately. The settings on your washer also affect drying time. Use the fastest spin setting whenever you can, to remove the most water.\\n\\nFor dryer efficiency, keep the lint filter clean, and check the outlet periodically for lint that may be clogging the vent. If your dryer hose is kinked, twisted, or too long, replace it with as short and direct a run as possible, preferably with a straight sheet-metal duct instead of a flexible vinyl or aluminum duct. Try to run several loads in succession to take advantage of retained heat, and fill, but don\\u2019t overload, the machine. Of course, if the weather\\u2019s good, you can also dry clothes outside on a line.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"660b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"7de4065\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7505\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2de8\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"29\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6944\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Smart Shopping for New Appliances\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"649\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Minimum efficiency regulations for new appliances have increased over the years, so even the least-efficient new models typically use much less energy than appliances that are 10 or more years old.<br \\/>In most cases, it\\u2019s not cost-effective to go out and buy new, energy-efficient products just to save energy. Two exceptions to this rule are older refrigerators and dehumidifiers. For other appliances, look for the most efficient products available when you do go shopping\\u2014and always choose an Energy Star\\u2013labeled appliance at a minimum. It\\u2019s worth some research in advance; even within the Energy Star labeling program, there can be a wide range of efficiency. For example, to get an Energy Star label, refrigerators<br \\/>must save at least 20 percent over federal standards, but some models save over 50 percent. Also, minimum requirements vary with features: A side-by-side model with through-door ice can use almost 50 percent more than a top-freezer model without ice\\u2014even though both are Energy Star rated. 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Many of us heard the message \\u201cturn off lights when you\\u2019re not using them\\u201d while we were growing up. Of course, how much light you need is a matter of eyesight and personal taste. Turning off a light isn\\u2019t always a practical solution, except when you leave the\\nroom\\u2014then there\\u2019s no excuse. One of the best ways to eliminate unnecessary light usage is with controls. Regularly used indoor lights can be put on timers or occupancy sensors so they aren\\u2019t left on for hours when no one is using them. Exterior walkway and security lighting can be put on a combination of\\ntimers, motion sensors, or photocell controls to minimize their use while ensuring that they are\\non whenever needed.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1330\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"LED Lighting\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"a0d19fc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>LED lighting technology is developing rapidly. In just a few years, a number of good-quality LEDs have become available (though they are still expensive). The products will keep getting better, and prices will continue to drop, over the next few years at least. LEDs are fundamentally different than other light sources. An LED is a semiconductor\\u2014basically, a tiny computer chip\\u2014that generates light. LEDs have been around for decades in electronic equipment displays and status lights, but by nature a single LED generates a focused point-source of light in a single, saturated color such as red, yellow, or blue. Getting an LED to look like an incandescent bulb is a challenge; most manufacturers combine many LEDs of different colors to approximate warm, yellow-white light and to disperse the light in a useful 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fa-linkedin\",\"_id\":\"dc10550\",\"link\":{\"is_external\":\"true\",\"url\":\"https:\\/\\/www.linkedin.com\\/company\\/energy-new-england\\/\",\"stylepress_template\":\"\",\"stylepress_display\":\"\",\"stylepress_width\":\"500\",\"nofollow\":\"\"}}],\"align\":\"\",\"icon_color\":\"custom\",\"icon_primary_color\":\"rgba(0,0,0,0)\",\"icon_secondary_color\":\"rgba(255,255,255,0.45)\",\"icon_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":15},\"icon_padding\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":0},\"icon_spacing\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"hover_secondary_color\":\"#f49ac3\",\"align_mobile\":\"left\",\"align_tablet\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"social-icons\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false}]'),(12169,2098,'_elementor_version','0.4'),(12170,2098,'_elementor_template_type','post'),(12172,2099,'_wp_page_template','default'),(12173,2099,'_elementor_edit_mode','builder'),(12174,2099,'_elementor_page_settings','a:1:{s:21:\"background_background\";s:7:\"classic\";}'),(12175,2099,'_elementor_data','[{\"id\":\"1d0a\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"background_background\":\"gradient\",\"margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":0,\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":0,\"isLinked\":true},\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6ffa\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6ad0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"<p>Hot Water Heaters<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3e9\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2a4a\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3c10\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Maintenance and Efficiency Upgrades<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Replacing Hot Water Systems<\\/a>\\n\\n\\n\\n\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5349\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"65dc\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3798\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"129c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Maintenance and Efficiency Upgrades\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"384a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The vast majority of homes in the United States have stand-alone water heaters. These are independent hot-water storage tanks with their own heat source, with the sole function of providing domestic hot water. A home that is heated by a boiler is likely to have a tankless coil or an indirect-fired storage tank. Standard gas water heaters are cheap and inefficient. They are typically expected to last only 5 to 15 years, so most people do not invest much money in them. Replacing a water heater tends to be an emergency event, full of stress because the old water heater has suddenly failed. Proper maintenance can extend the life of a water heater, and some efficiency improvements can be made to existing tanks with minimal investment; but if you have a standard water heater made before 2005, it may make more sense to upgrade to a very high-efficiency unit and not try to make the old one last longer. If your present water heater appears to be near the end of its useful life, now is the time to do research on the right type of replacement unit. Then you will be well prepared, whether you decide to wait until the old one goes or to replace the tank at your convenience.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3bd8\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4fc6\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6c17\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Two types of tanks: Gas and electric\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1298\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Stand-alone water heaters come in two basic types: gas and electric. Gas water heaters, fired with piped natural or LP gas, are the most common. Gas water heaters are usually smaller than electric water heaters, because their burners produce more heat than an electric heating element. A capacity of 40 to 50 gal. is typical for most houses.\\n\\nElectric water heaters in single-family homes often hold 50 to 80 gal. Electric water heaters don\\u2019t require a fuel supply in the house, so they are a common choice for homes where piped natural gas is unavailable and where a heat pump provides the space heating.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4221\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"36c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"183d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Hot-Water_heaters_Pic1.png\",\"id\":2061},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true},\"caption\":\"Typically, gas water heaters don\\u2019t have degree markings, but the recommended target temperature of 120\\u00b0F is usually between \\u201cWarm\\u201d and \\u201cMedium.\\u201d It may take some trial and error to find a setting that\\u2019s just right.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"6402\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Setting the temperature\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9e1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The temperature of many hot-water heaters can be lowered without any noticeable reduction in the hot-water supply. Lowering the temperature of stored hot water saves energy by reducing conductive heat loss through the tank surfaces, called standby loss. Standby losses depend on the location of the tank (how cold it is outside the tank), how well the tank is insulated, and where the tank is located (in a cold climate, most losses in the winter just contribute to heating the house). The better insulated the tank and the greater your hot-water use, the less savings a temperature setback will provide.\\n\\nReducing the temperature setting by 10\\u00b0F may save 2 percent to 5 percent of your water heating costs. The investment is $0, and it\\u2019s easy to readjust if you turn it down too much. In addition to energy savings, a lower tank temperature reduces scaling and corrosion and increases the life of the tank. The thermostat knob on a gas water heater is usually located at the front of the gas valve. Look carefully at the markings; on many gas water heaters, counterclockwise rotation increases the temperature setting. Electric tanks have two thermostats\\u2014one for each element\\u2014located behind metal covers near the bottom and the top of the tank. Because there is exposed wiring inside, shut off the circuit breaker before unscrewing the covers. Set both elements to about the same temperature, or set the top element just slightly cooler so the bottom element activates first.\\n\\nHot water stored below 120\\u00b0F may increase the risk of Legionella pneumophili bacteria, which can cause pneumonia. But Legionella infections in single-family homes are quite rare compared to the risk of scalding, which increases rapidly at tank temperatures over 120\\u00b0F. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission recommends all home water heaters be set at 120\\u00b0F, and even at that temperature third degree burns can occur with exposures of five minutes or more. Antiscald mixing valves can help keep children and elders, who are at higher risk for burns, safe.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"7a0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Insulating hot-water pipes\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7fd6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Hot-water pipes lose energy in two ways: through conductive losses in pipe walls while hot water is running and through thermosiphon effects.  Pipe insulation is readily available at most home centers and hardware stores and is easy to install. The biggest benefit from pipe insulation occurs within the first 10 ft. of the tank. Be sure to use the right diameter of insulation; most homes have a mixture of 1\\u20442-in. and 3\\u20444-in. pipes, so it\\u2019s a good idea to measure how much of each you will need.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5d4c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Hot-Water_Heaters_Pic2.png\",\"id\":2064},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"The most common pipe insulation is made from polyethylene and is widely available at hardware stores and home centers.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"42cd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Maintenance\\n\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"390\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"There are two basic maintenance operations that can increase a tank\\u2019s lifespan. One is to regularly flush out debris and scale, which can also improve the efficiency of your tank by improving heat transfer. Annually flushing water through the drain valve at the bottom can help wash away the crud. Don\\u2019t try to drain the tank; the force of the cold-water pressure helps stir up the material. But you might want to shut off the heater overnight before doing this, to avoid wasting gallons of hot water. Unfortunately, most drain valves that are installed at the factory don\\u2019t allow much sediment to pass through, so it\\u2019s better to replace it with a full-flow ball valve. Flushing is also more effective if the tank has a dip tube with a curve at the bottom that swirls incoming water around the base of the tank.\\n\\nThe other thing that can be done to extend the life of a water heater is to replace the anode rod periodically. The anode rod, typically made of magnesium formed around steel wire, is designed to corrode before the steel tank does. Once the magnesium material has decomposed or is covered with scale, the anode stops working and the tank will start to deteriorate. Anode rods are designed to last for about 5 years, depending, of course, on the water: typically, just a little longer than the tank\\u2019s warranty. You will probably need a heavy-duty socket wrench with a breaker bar to unthread the anode rod. Don\\u2019t try to remove it until you have a new replacement rod handy. And be very careful not to damage the tank or the water fittings when removing the rod. Replacement anode rods are available at plumbing supply houses for $20 to $40. Of course, you will need to shut off the tank and the incoming water supply, and partially empty the tank before replacing an anode rod.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3f01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"42d8\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7fd4\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5194\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"3238\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Replacing Hot-Water Systems\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4e42\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"When it is time to buy a new hot-water heater, it makes sense to install the most efficient replacement system possible. But choosing a water heater can be confusing; there are many different styles of high-efficiency units with competing claims of superiority. Which type will work best for you depends on the type of hot water and heating systems already in your house. If you have a furnace, then you will need some type of independent, stand-alone water heater. If you have a hot-water boiler, it usually makes sense to use it for water heating, especially if the boiler is a newer, efficient model. Stand-alone, standard LP-gas, or oil-fired water heaters are the most expensive to operate; if you have one of these, or if you heat your house with electric resistance or a heat pump, you might benefit from either a super-high-efficiency condensing water heater, a heat pump water heater (HPWH; or a solar water-heating system).\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3f72\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Water-heater efficiency\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5e68\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"There are three basic types of replacement water heaters that work on their own (without a boiler): storage tanks, on-demand units (sometimes called tankless water heaters), and heat pump water heaters. Any of these types except the heat pump are available in either gas or electric models. Most have high-efficiency versions, and all have pros and cons. Every new water heater has an efficiency rating (called an energy\\nfactor, or EF) listed with AHRI. Today\\u2019s water heaters have EFs that range from about 0.50 to 0.97 (except for heat pumps); try to get a water heater with the highest EF rating for the type of application you need.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"488b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Tank-type water heaters\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3d37\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Most standard gas water heaters have EF ratings in the high 50s\\u2014that means over 40 percent of the energy is wasted. Until recently, the highest efficiency tank-type units you could buy were in the low 60s; most had efficient burners, electronic pilots, and high insulation levels. There is a new generation of high-efficiency tank-type water heaters emerging that have higher energy factors. For example, the KenmoreR Elite uses a special air intake and other features to achieve an EF of 0.7. Both the Kenmore and the RheemR Fury (0.67 EF) use electronic vent dampers. Although not the highest efficiency available, these products provide a sizable performance boost at a modest price increase over a standard gas water heater.\\n\\nThe most efficient units on the market are condensing gas water heaters; they typically have EF ratings of 0.90 or higher. The best ones have stainless-steel tanks and high firing rates\\u2014typically around 90,000 to 120,000 Btu per hour, two to three times that of a typical tank. Because of their high cost\\u2014roughly $1,500 to $2,500\\u2014condensing water heaters may be more appropriate for supplying whole-house heating as well as hot water. Their high heat output makes them well suited for supplying a hydro-air system. A hydro-air handler used in conjunction with a condensing gas water heater is probably one of the most efficient replacements for an old, inefficient gas furnace and a standard electric or gas water-heating tank, especially if you have piped natural gas and live in a cold or mixed climate. Standard electric tank-type water heaters appear to be more efficient than gas units, with EFs ranging from about 0.86 to 0.95. \\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"22a3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Hot-Water_Heaters_Pic3.png\",\"id\":2065},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"All new water heaters are required to have an Energy Guide label, which compares the energy use of this model to that of similar models. Buyers beware: \\u201cEnergy Saver\\u201d is a common name found on water heaters, but it can be almost meaningless. Few water heaters have their EF rating listed on the tank, but you can look it up in the AHRI directory online.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"2a4a814\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The energy factor, or EF rating, is based on a standardized test that takes into account burner efficiency, pilot usage, and standby losses for \\u201ctypical\\u201d hot-water usage. EF ratings for gas, oil, and electric water\\nheaters can be found at www.ahridirectory.org under \\u201cresidential water heaters.\\u201d The directory\\nalso shows first-hour ratings and the burner efficiency, which is called \\u201crecovery efficiency.\\u201d\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"317c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Tankless water heaters\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"d84\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"At the other end of the spectrum is the tankless or on-demand water heater. The premise of a tankless water heater is to save energy by eliminating the storage tank and its associated standby losses, using a large gas burner to heat water only when you need it. (Don\\u2019t confuse this with a tankless water-heating coil that\\u2019s run from a boiler; these waste far more energy by keeping the boiler hot all year.)\\n\\nOn-demand water heaters have higher EF ratings than conventional water heaters. Gas on-demand water heaters fall into two groups: those with standard gas burners and EF ratings in the low 80s, and those with condensing burners and EFs in the 90s. Savings will be lower than the EF ratings (and marketing literature) indicate, about $80 to $100 per year (assuming national average of $1.20\\/therm). The modest savings make it hard to recoup your investment in a reasonable time: Tankless water heaters cost between $800 and $1,500. Installation cost is also likely to be high; larger gas lines are typically needed, and in many cases new electrical service. Other advantages of tankless water heaters are their small size and their ability to provide hot water continuously, but there are some drawbacks as well. The burner starts when a hot-water tap is opened, by sensing the drop in pressure, so some cold water always flows into the heat exchanger at first. If you use hot water intermittently, or take a shower right after another family member, you may end up with surprise \\u201cslug\\u201d of cold water each time. The total flow of hot water in GPM is also limited by the burner capacity, so sizing these units is less forgiving than water heaters with some storage. Some tankless units have small storage tanks built in to reduce these troubles, or an external tank can be added.\\n\\nFinally, on-demand water heaters are sensitive to minerals\\u2014if you have hard water, the annual service that\\u2019s needed will cut into the savings. I don\\u2019t generally recommend on-demand units for most existing-tank replacements, but these heaters can make sense in a major renovation. Electric tankless heaters are also available, but they are not typically suitable for whole-house service\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6e6cbf3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Indirect-fired tank (with boiler)\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2144536\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you heat your house with a hot-water boiler, an indirect-fired water heater can generate hot water more efficiently than a tankless coil or most stand-alone units. The storage tank contains a thermostat that requests heat from the boiler, just like a separate heating zone. To get the best efficiency from an indirect storage tank, the boiler has to have the right controls: It needs to be set up for \\u201ccold start\\u201d and should also include a purge cycle. Generally, the control should also include a 30-minute hot-water priority. This ensures that you always have hot water, even on a cold morning when the boiler is needed for space heating.\\n\\nMany indirect-fired tanks have a built-in heat exchanger. Boiler water is pumped through the heat exchanger, heating water in the tank without mixing boiler water with the potable water supply. Alternatively, almost any type of insulated storage tank can be combined with an external heat exchanger to produce hot water from a boiler. An external heat exchanger requires two circulating pumps, adding a small electrical load. But when the unit is properly sized, the heat transfer is very efficient. All piping between the boiler and the storage tank must be thoroughly insulated to minimize heat loss, including any external heat exchanger (don\\u2019t insulate pump bodies). Indirect tanks have AHRI efficiency ratings, but they don\\u2019t have EF ratings like other water heaters. This is because any boiler can provide the heat\\nsource with a wide range of efficiencies. Indirect tanks are rated for \\u201cstandby loss\\u201d in a range from 0.4 to over 1.0; try to aim for 0.8 or less. Smaller tanks tend to have higher losses per hour, but they are cheaper and take up less space. Look for the lowest standby loss available with a first-hour rating that suits your needs.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"c0e7171\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Heat pump water heaters\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"371bd92\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The heat pump water heater is based on a great concept: Use electricity to extract heat from the air and deliver it to the hot water at a higher temperature. The heat extracted from the air is free, and theoretically the net efficiency could be 300 percent or more. Early models had trouble with reliability, service, and price, but a new generation of HPWHs has emerged that seems to offer better efficiency and reliability at a price range of about $1,300 to $2,000. HPWHs have EFs in the range of 2.0 to 2.5, which means that more than half the heat comes from the environment around the heater. There are a number of factors that affect the real installed efficiency. First, controls in most units allow for resistance heat to turn on when demand is high or surrounding air temperatures are low; this can really cut into the overall efficiency, depending on how the control is set and how you use hot water. The most efficient units have smaller electric backup heaters (less than 2,500 watts) and run the heat pump even while the resistance heat is on. Larger tanks also tend to run more efficiently than small tanks. Also, the heat comes from the air around the tank. If you live in a cold climate, that heat may not be free: If the tank is in a conditioned space, you\\u2019ve already paid to heat it up. If it\\u2019s in an unconditioned basement, the air may get cold and efficiency will suffer. At the same time, air that is exhausted from the heat pump is cool and dry, so running an HPWH in a basement may reduce dehumidification needs. Some units allow for a duct to divert the chilled air output outdoors in cold weather. Of course, in a warm climate a HPWH will help cool your house, saving even more on your electric bills. The bottom line is this: If you are looking to replace an existing electric or LP-gas water heater, consider getting a HPWH if you live in a mixed or hot climate. Average savings should be around $300 per year, so payback on the $1,000 to $1,500 increased cost is fairly reasonable. Savings may be higher where electric rates are higher than average, even in colder climates. Savings will tend to be largest when hot-water use is high.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6462\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":2068,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Hot_Water_Heater_Pic4.png\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"This \\u201chybrid\\u201d heat pump water heater produces hot water at a savings of about 50 percent when compared to conventional electric water heaters. 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fa-linkedin\",\"_id\":\"dc10550\",\"link\":{\"is_external\":\"true\",\"url\":\"https:\\/\\/www.linkedin.com\\/company\\/energy-new-england\\/\",\"stylepress_template\":\"\",\"stylepress_display\":\"\",\"stylepress_width\":\"500\",\"nofollow\":\"\"}}],\"align\":\"\",\"icon_color\":\"custom\",\"icon_primary_color\":\"rgba(0,0,0,0)\",\"icon_secondary_color\":\"rgba(255,255,255,0.45)\",\"icon_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":15},\"icon_padding\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":0},\"icon_spacing\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"hover_secondary_color\":\"#f49ac3\",\"align_mobile\":\"left\",\"align_tablet\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"social-icons\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false}]'),(12176,2099,'_elementor_version','0.4'),(12177,2099,'_elementor_template_type','post'),(12179,2100,'_wp_page_template','default'),(12180,2100,'_elementor_edit_mode','builder'),(12181,2100,'_elementor_template_type','post'),(12182,2100,'_elementor_page_settings','a:1:{s:21:\"background_background\";s:7:\"classic\";}'),(12183,2100,'_elementor_data','[{\"id\":\"19c1\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"background_background\":\"gradient\",\"margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":0,\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":0,\"isLinked\":true},\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3f08\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7e70\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"<p>Insulation<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1093\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"From the attic to the basement, insulation is like a down jacket around your house that keeps you warm in the winter (and, like a thermos, cool in the summer). In many houses, it is probably easier to insulate than it is to seal air leaks, though it\\u2019s a big job if you need to insulate exterior walls. Attics are relatively easy to insulate, and most houses can benefit from some added insulation. Regardless of the age of your house, don\\u2019t be fooled just because there\\u2019s some insulation in the attic\\u2014even if it looks like a lot. Some homes have a thin layer that does little good; others have insulation that was installed in only the areas that were easy to reach. Even newer homes that have a lot of insulation can still have significant gaps and installation problems that are worth fixing\\u2014by someone who cares enough about the details to do it right.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"6f8e\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"65fd\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"593e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Attic Insulation<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Sloped Ceilings<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Insulating Walls<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Insulating Floors<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Insulating Foundation Walls<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3fba\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"5ddd\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4f1e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"5897\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Attic Insulation\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2ce3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Attics are typically insulated first, and they usually receive the most insulation. People usually assume that attics are insulated because \\u201cheat rises,\\u201d but heat doesn\\u2019t actually rise at all. The reason attics tend to get more insulation is much less glamorous: The attic is simply the cheapest and easiest place to add insulation, in both old and new houses. In fact, in a moderately insulated two-story house, there may be two to four times as much conductive heat loss (not including air leakage or windows) through the exterior walls as through the attic. Perform air-sealing before you insulate, unless you plan to insulate with sprayed foam and complete the air sealing at the same time. Also, if you intend to vent a bath fan, install a ventilation system, change any electrical wiring, or do any other work in the attic, now is the time.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2d7\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2309\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"6497\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"How much insulation?\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7e15\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Insulation is measured in R-value; the higher the R-value, the less heat loss. To some extent, there is an effect of diminishing returns in that the first 6 in. of insulation will save you more money than the next 6 in. But it doesn\\u2019t pay to skimp, either. Once you\\u2019re up in the attic installing insulation, you may as well do it right. Generally, the minimum recommended R-value for an attic is R-38. In cold northern climates, aim for between R-50 and R-60; in hot climates, R-30 may be adequate. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3984345\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"64295dd\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4cde704\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Fiberglass Batts\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4acf754\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Fiberglass batts are typically the insulation of choice for do-it-yourselfers. The material is easy to transport and install by yourself. It\\u2019s ideal for an attic where you may want to add living space later (or make other changes), because it is easy to remove and replace. But there is a price to pay for convenience.  No matter how carefully you detail fiberglass batts, they rarely work as well as the factory ratings suggest.  Because of the annoying, itchy quality of fiberglass, several manufacturers market encapsulated batts that are surrounded by plastic. Steer clear of these products; they\\u2019re more of a marketing gimmick than a worthwhile innovation. Encapsulated batts are more expensive and harder to install properly. Although the coverings may make the material more comfortable to work with, they also increase the difficulty of detailing the batts properly.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2a0589e\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"c72cad9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"eb1d68a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Blowing attic insulation\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"db16c97\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If your roof is made with trusses, or the attic has flooring with little or no insulation under it, it\\u2019s hard to get good results with fiberglass. In those cases, your best bet is to use a loose-fill material, such as cellulose. One big advantage of blown cellulose is that it is fast and easy to install. You don\\u2019t have to worry about cutting, fitting, fluffing, or most of the other details that concern fiberglass batts. You can also cover the top of existing insulation with cellulose, which will settle into all the gaps and spaces between the batts. This improves what\\u2019s already there and adds R-value.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6cad54e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Pro Tip\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"69c97ac\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The flame-retardant chemicals used to treat cellulose tend to discourage insects and rodents from nesting in it.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"ee743ed\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7ef8df3\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"83ab221\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Storage areas\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"79c3c90\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"People often use attics for storage. Eliminate attic storage, if possible. There are plenty of good reasons to get rid of stuff (both thermal and psychological). Still, many homes lack storage space, and the attic is a natural place for those boxes of holiday decorations. If you have a partially or fully floored attic, you can set aside an area near the access hatch or stairs by making a dam out of 12-in.-thick fiberglass batts. Insulate the rest of the attic, making sure there is insulation under the floorboards as well. Once the dust has settled, you should be able to move stuff in and out without disturbing the insulation.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"95780a3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"10ff\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"426\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"bc449ad\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"4e9a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sloped Ceilings\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"643e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Many homes have sloped ceiling areas\\u2014places where plaster or drywall is applied directly to the underside of the roof rafters. Examples include Cape-style houses, which usually have sloped ceilings between the knee wall and the flat ceiling above or rooms with partial or full cathedral ceilings. Some homes just have a narrow-sloped area for a few feet near the eaves. These enclosed cavities present more of a challenge than an open attic. Some, like the typical Cape, have fairly easy access from an attic space either above or below. Others, like a full cathedral ceiling, are more difficult. The biggest distinction between dense-packed and open-blown cellulose is that dense-pack is installed in an enclosed cavity. But it\\u2019s not enough just to be enclosed\\u2014to dense-pack, by definition, means using enough air pressure to compress the material more densely than it could ever compress from settling.\\n\\nRoof-shingle warranties are another concern. Unvented cathedral ceilings experience hotter roof temperatures\\u2014typically by 2 percent to 4 percent\\u2014than vented roofs. Because those higher temperatures may accelerate degradation (venting is assumed to reduce roof temperatures), some roofing manufacturers won\\u2019t honor warranty claims on unvented, or hot, roofs. But research has shown that shingle color actually has a much larger impact (about 10 percent) on roof temperature than venting does, and several manufacturers do provide warranty service for unvented roofs. Choose one of those, or vent the roof first if shingle-warranty service is important to you.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3069\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing moisture risk\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"7b19\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>There are serious concerns relating to venting a cathedral- or flat-roof ceiling space. Good air sealing (which dense-packing helps) and indoor humidity control via mechanical ventilation help reduce condensation and moisture buildup. But even an excellent dense-pack job can allow some air movement. In an unvented cathedral ceiling or flat roof, this can deposit moisture at the roof deck, especially in a home with high humidity. There are two basic strategies to avoid increasing the risk of condensation and potential damage to the roof deck: using foam insulation to control condensing temperatures, and ensuring an opening from the unvented cavities into a larger, vented space. The first approach\\u2014using continuous foam insulation\\u2014is the only proven, code-approved method for an unvented roof. It can take two basic forms: rigid foam insulation added above and in contact with the roof deck, or sprayed foam added directly to the underside of the roof deck. Rigid foam is typically added during a re-roof, but usually a new sheathing surface (with a furred, vented space in heavy snow areas) is needed on top of the foam. This approach is expensive, but it\\u2019s a practical way to address a house with full cathedral ceilings if the roof is close to needing replacement. Consider interior sprayed foam insulation if you are planning extensive interior renovations (see \\u201cRenovations\\u201d for more discussion). With either foam method, once the roof deck is protected from condensation by a high enough R-value of foam, the remainder of the cavity may be insulated with blown insulation or batt (called \\u201cflash and batt\\u201d). The R-value of foam insulation depends on climate (see the table on the facing page and the map below). Both of these methods are explicitly allowed by code; both are energy efficient and low risk in any climate. The second approach is to provide a partial venting path for the closed dense-pack area. This can be achieved in homes that have sections of sloped ceilings (such as Cape-style homes) that may be difficult or impossible to vent properly. If one end of the dense-packed area is open to a vented attic space (preferably the top), any wetting effects appear to be balanced by drying toward the vented space. This approach can also be used under low-slope roofs (for example, a row house or shed dormer), where access near the low side is impossible. Experience has shown that up to one-third of the total attic area can be dense-packed without venting, provided that the remaining attic space is vented normally. Note that this method does not conform to standard code requirements but has been accepted by many local building officials. And I would consider this approach much riskier in climate zones 6 to 8. Of course, just as with an open attic floor, you have to be careful to avoid chimneys and non-IC-rated recessed lights. If you have a chimney in a key leak area, you may want to consider using a high-performance fiberglass. You could also open up the ceiling in that area to air-seal the chase with sheet metal.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"c76b352\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"High Performance Fiberglass\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"29201d7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"A new breed of blown-in fiberglass materials is now on the market. High performance fiberglass (such as Johns-Manville Spider\\u00ae and Knauf Perimeter PlusTM) can be dense packed to reduce air movement as effectively as cellulose in closed cavities. These products have slightly higher R-values than cellulose, but at much lower densities\\u2014and lower risk of plaster blow-out. The Building Performance Institute is developing a standard (Standard BPI-3202-T) to qualify other insulation products based on air-leakage control. Because these products are noncombustible, they are also safe to use in cavities adjacent to a chimney or fireplace.\\n\\nIf you insulate a roof with spray foam and there\\u2019s a furnace in the attic, you need to pay attention to combustion air requirements. You should be okay if the furnace is a modern powervented or condensing unit. But if it\\u2019s an older atmospheric-vented unit, you may need to add some transfer grilles from the attic into the living space. Better yet, replace the furnace with a high efficiency direct-vent unit.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"e11\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Existing Insulation in Older Homes\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"6799\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Most homes built before the 1930s had no insulation at all, so if your home is from that era, you will be looking for insulation that was added later. It may be blown-in cellulose or urea-formaldehyde foam. If the walls are already insulated, it is rarely worth adding more, unless you find large areas that were never done at all, or if the walls were not insulated properly. If the installed insulation has settled and each wall bay has a large empty space at the top, it may be worth filling them in. Also look out for \\u201cback-plastering.\\u201d Although unusual, backplastered walls are built with an extra layer of lath and plaster in the middle of the stud space, to add an extra airspace and reduce heat loss through the wall. Those walls are difficult to insulate due to the narrow space, and it\\u2019s probably better to leave them alone unless you do major remodeling or re-siding. Homes that were built prior to 1960 may have minimal insulation; some have insulation that is sandwiched between layers of paper. It is possible to add cellulose insulation to walls with those thin insulation layers, but only with a fill tube. If the wall has thicker batts, it will probably be almost impossible to get the fill tube into the wall cavity without bunching the insulation; in that case, it won\\u2019t be worth trying to add more.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2e07\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"633\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"35d2\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"285\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"54b6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Insulating Walls\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5d09\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>If you have little or no insulation in your walls, you will definitely benefit from installing some. Conductive heat loss through uninsulated walls represents a significant heating and cooling load, and it\\u2019s usually cost-effective to add insulation. Exterior walls are fairly difficult to insulate, unless you are remodeling, installing new drywall, or re-siding the house. Retrofitting insulation almost always means blowing in insulation; the process is very much like that for sloped ceiling dense-pack outlined above. The type of siding has a big impact on how easy it is to get into the wall, and it may help you decide whether to tackle the job yourself or hire an insulation contractor.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2dcd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"What\\u2019s in there now?\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"aff\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"How do you know what\\u2019s in the walls already? If you have done any remodeling on the house, you may already know. If not, there are a several ways to find out. It\\u2019s important to know what is in there, because that will have a big impact on how easy\\u2014or useful\\u2014it will be to insulate the walls. Remember that there may be different types of insulation (or none at all) in different parts of the house. If some rooms have been remodeled, or built at a different time, they will likely be insulated differently. Sometimes people start to insulate a house and don\\u2019t finish, so look in several places to be fairly certain of what is there. If the insulation is spotty or inconsistent, an infrared camera can identify all the areas that are uninsulated.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"ed0c7c0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3576\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2955\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7385\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"1cf1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Insulating Floors\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2536\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Some floors need insulation, and some do not. A basement with a furnace or boiler is typically warm enough that insulating the floor won\\u2019t save you much, if anything. Seal and insulate foundation walls to help keep that heat in the house. Most people want their basements to be at least moderately warm, at least to reduce the risk of pipes freezing and dry things out a bit. If you don\\u2019t mind having a very cold basement, you can combine floor insulation with insulating and sealing the ducts (or insulating heating pipes) to help keep the heat in the upper floors. Some floors that should be insulated are cantilevers; floors over garages, on stilts, or on piers; and slab-on-grade floors in cold climates. The open side of a conditioned walkout basement is also a slab-on-grade floor.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5afb\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Insulating an enclosed-cavity floor with cellulose\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"795f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Any floor that is exposed to outdoor conditions or unconditioned space and has solid sheathing on the underside can be insulated with blown-in cellulose. Examples include garage ceilings, exposed heated porches, cantilevered overhangs, and sheathed floors built on piers. The process is the same as that for filling cavities in cathedral ceilings or walls. You must drill holes in each bay, and then patch the holes when you are done.\\n\\nIn termite-prone areas, exterior rigid foam is not recommended, because insects can hide behind the insulation on their way into the house. Some manufacturers make insect-resistant polystyrene-foam products. Typically, those products do not have insect-repelling qualities that will protect your home; they only prevent critters from nesting in the material. Check your local building code to see whether those products are acceptable for such applications in your area.\\n\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1cc7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Insulating a slab floor\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3dc0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"An uninsulated slab floor can lose a lot of heat if the edges are close to or above grade level. It can be cold and uncomfortable in the winter, and cool and damp in the summer. If the floor is unfinished, or you are planning to remodel anyway, a layer of extruded polyethylene, with 1\\u00d73 furring as a nail base, makes a good foundation for a plywood subfloor.\\n\\nSlab floors that are more than a few feet below grade don\\u2019t cause much heat loss, but they stay cool in the summer due to ground contact. These surfaces become magnets for condensation in humid weather. For this reason alone, a slab floor may well be worth insulating.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"11f4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"ea0\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4c7d\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4475\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"3ec3\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Insulating Foundation Walls\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor05\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"55a8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you have a basement or a crawlspace, chances are pretty good that the walls are not insulated. If you have heating equipment in the space, it is probably not very cold in the winter, either\\u2014the thermal boundary is ambiguous. If you use it for anything besides storage, or if you are planning to finish all or part of the basement later, insulating the foundation walls rather than the floor above. I also recommend insulating the crawlspace walls instead of the floor joists. Remember that if you do insulate overhead, you will also need to insulate the furnace ducts or the heating pipes in the basement Most of the heat loss in a foundation wall occurs near the top of the wall, where it\\u2019s exposed to outdoor temperatures, but I recommend insulating the entire wall. The cost to insulate the entire wall is not much more than doing just the upper half. Also, if you insulate and finish the entire wall, you will have a much nicer finished space in the basement. 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And Upgrades<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">New Air-Conditioning Systems<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"44bc\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1f54\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"d8c4e61\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7ef8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Cooling 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In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads\\u2014and bills\\u2014benefit by reductions in heat gain. 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Some things you can probably do yourself, whereas others require a professional technician.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1263\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3099\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Like heat pumps and furnaces, air-conditioning systems depend on adequate airflow to remove heat efficiently from your house. Whether you have a central air conditioner or individual room units, check the filters regularly and clean or replace them when they are dirty\\u2014 once or twice a season should be adequate. Because airflow is important, do not shut off any of the supply registers in the system\\u2014\\nespecially if the ducts are located in an attic, garage, or crawlspace.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4bf1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Cleaning air coils\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3d3e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"When filters don\\u2019t work properly or air gets around them, the evaporator coil can become clogged with dirt and dust. Depending on the system, you may need a service technician to access the coil. If you can reach it yourself, lift the dirt from behind with a stiff brush. Be careful not to drive dirt further in or bend the fins. The outdoor condenser coil should also be kept clean and free of dirt and debris. Don\\u2019t spray water directly at the coil, which may drive dirt deeper into the space between the fins. Instead, using a long-bristle brush with flexible bristles, carefully insert the bristles between the fins, and lift the dirt from behind. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1f3b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Regular service\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5549\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Regular service calls\\u2014typically every two to three years\\u2014should include testing the controls, checking and cleaning the blower, condenser, and evaporator coils as needed, checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines, and checking the condensate drain. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing any airflow problems, and then carefully measuring and correcting the refrigerant charge. Like a heat pump, once that has been done, service technicians should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless there is evidence that something is wrong. Like a heat pump, an over- or undercharged air conditioner is less efficient (particularly older models), and systems are often improperly charged. Airflow must be in the recommended range of 400 CFM to 425 CFM per ton before the refrigerant charge can be measured. \\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2bf4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":\"\",\"url\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. 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If you get a proposal to replace only the outdoor unit, the contractor should be able to demonstrate that the existing indoor coil is listed for use with the new outdoor unit; don\\u2019t accept \\u201cdon\\u2019t worry, it\\u2019s fine the way it is\\u201d as an answer.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3586\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sizing a system\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"12c6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Proper sizing has been emphasized as a key efficiency issue for years in the energy-efficiency world, but there\\u2019s little evidence that it affects operating costs very much. 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style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"202f\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"50d6\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1c64\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Cooling Basics<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Reducing Loads<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Maintenance And Upgrades<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">New Air-Conditioning Systems<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"44bc\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1f54\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"d8c4e61\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7ef8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Cooling Basics\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5721\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads\\u2014and bills\\u2014benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"14ad\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"110c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"16ab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Where does the heat come from?\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"c99\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it\\u2019s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \\n\\nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it\\u2019s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"eaea1d5\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4f5bb73\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3141f9a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"How air conditioners work\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b90e1e9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Virtually all residential air-conditioning systems use a compressor-driven refrigerant vapor cycle to cool house air. The compressor cycle controls refrigerant temperatures in the condenser and evaporator coils, which absorb heat from indoor air at a low temperature, then reject it outdoors at a higher temperature. Air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators all use the refrigerant vapor cycle to essentially push heat uphill, from a cooler place to a warmer place. An air conditioner pushes heat from the cool indoors to the hot outdoors, cooling the interior. In addition to sending indoor heat outdoors, an air conditioner must also reject the heat generated by the compressor and fan motors.\\n\\nAnother aspect of air conditioners is their ability to dehumidify, as well as cool, indoor air. This happens when water condenses on the cold fins of the evaporator coil as humid air passes across them. Dehumidification is an important component in maintaining healthy indoor air quality and comfort. Water that is evaporated in air contains quite a bit of heat energy, which must be accounted for in the system\\u2019s design. The energy required to remove excess humidity is called latent load, and it comes from moisture sources within the home and, in humid climates, outdoor air leaking indoors.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2ede\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"417a\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7f8a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"4bd1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing Loads\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4181\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"With cooling, just as with heating, as the loads are reduced you spend less to stay comfortable. Think of the air conditioner as removing heat that builds up, rather than \\u201ccooling down\\u201d the house. The better you are at preventing heat from building up, the less heat your air conditioner must remove and the less time it will have to run\\u2014saving you money. There are two approaches to reducing cooling loads: reducing\\nyour need for cooling and reducing heat gains in your house.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"78db\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reduce the need for cooling\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"769\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"One surefire way to cut cooling costs is to use your air conditioner less. A house with more insulation, better windows, and less air leakage is comfortable with no air-conditioning for more of the summer. Setting the thermostat higher, particularly when the house is empty, reduces the system\\u2019s run time and saves energy. \\n\\nFans can also help raise the temperature at which you feel comfortable. By installing an efficient ceiling fan and keeping the air moving in occupied rooms, most people can comfort- ably increase the temperature setting of their thermostat by 4\\u00b0F to 6\\u00b0F, saving 20 percent to 35 percent on their cooling bills. Fan flow\\nshould point downward to maximize the feeling of air movement in the room. Oscillating and box fans can also provide portable comfort. When using any type of indoor fan, remember that it will keep people cool only while they are in the room. Turn off fans when you are not using them, because they generate heat.\\n\\nCeiling-mounted whole-house fans that exhaust into the attic are another popular method to reduce the need for cooling, but they must be used properly to be effective. Air leaks between the attic and house must be sealed, and the attic must be well vented to the exterior, to ensure that the fan exhaust goes outdoors rather than back into the house.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1d03\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Air_Cond_Pic1.png\",\"id\":2102},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"When you buy a ceiling fan, always choose an Energy Star model. Hundreds are available, with or without built-in efficient lights, for $75 to $225 each.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5a17\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct insulation and sealing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2423\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Air-conditioning ducts have the same leakage and insulation issues as those of heating ducts. In fact, leaks and missing insulation in attic ductwork hurt air-conditioning systems more than heating systems, because during peak cooling times attics are usually much hotter than outdoor ambient temperatures. All air conditioning ducts in attics, crawlspaces, and garages should be thoroughly sealed and insulated\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"36b9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"66a\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"65ff\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"532c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"207e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Maintenance and Upgrades\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4ac7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Like most other equipment, air conditioners need regular maintenance and service. Some things you can probably do yourself, whereas others require a professional technician.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1263\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3099\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Like heat pumps and furnaces, air-conditioning systems depend on adequate airflow to remove heat efficiently from your house. Whether you have a central air conditioner or individual room units, check the filters regularly and clean or replace them when they are dirty\\u2014 once or twice a season should be adequate. Because airflow is important, do not shut off any of the supply registers in the system\\u2014\\nespecially if the ducts are located in an attic, garage, or crawlspace.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4bf1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Cleaning air coils\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3d3e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"When filters don\\u2019t work properly or air gets around them, the evaporator coil can become clogged with dirt and dust. Depending on the system, you may need a service technician to access the coil. If you can reach it yourself, lift the dirt from behind with a stiff brush. Be careful not to drive dirt further in or bend the fins. The outdoor condenser coil should also be kept clean and free of dirt and debris. Don\\u2019t spray water directly at the coil, which may drive dirt deeper into the space between the fins. Instead, using a long-bristle brush with flexible bristles, carefully insert the bristles between the fins, and lift the dirt from behind. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1f3b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Regular service\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5549\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Regular service calls\\u2014typically every two to three years\\u2014should include testing the controls, checking and cleaning the blower, condenser, and evaporator coils as needed, checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines, and checking the condensate drain. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing any airflow problems, and then carefully measuring and correcting the refrigerant charge. Like a heat pump, once that has been done, service technicians should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless there is evidence that something is wrong. Like a heat pump, an over- or undercharged air conditioner is less efficient (particularly older models), and systems are often improperly charged. Airflow must be in the recommended range of 400 CFM to 425 CFM per ton before the refrigerant charge can be measured. \\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2bf4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":2103,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Air_conditioning_Pic2.png\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"Window- or wall-mounted air conditioners have lower efficiency ratings than central systems, but there are no ducts to waste the cold air. And cooling only one or two rooms can use much less energy than cooling an entire house.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"d1fe686\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5975\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2b34\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"788\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"4b23\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"New Air-Conditioning Systems\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"637a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you live in a hot climate and have central air conditioning that is 20 years old or more, replacing your system with a new, energy-efficient model should pay for itself in a reasonable time. High-efficiency systems on the market today are more than twice as efficient as systems from the 1980s. But before running out and replacing your system, you will first need to do two other things: Finish any upgrades on the building enclosure, and become familiar with air conditioning products and installation criteria. Of course, if you have a fairly new system (less than 10 years old), it is probably more cost effective to maintain it and keep it running as efficiently as possible until it wears out. As always, energy-efficient upgrades always cost the least when you are fixing or replacing something anyway. If your old air conditioner is on its last legs or not operating, replace it with the most efficient unit you can find.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6ef2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"High-efficiency air-conditioning\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1545\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"New central air conditioners are rated for energy performance with a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER). SEER ratings are measurements under standardized test conditions of Btu per hour of cooling output, divided by input watts. The higher the SEER, the more efficient the system. New central air conditioners are required to have a SEER rating of at least 13; the most efficient units have SEER ratings from 16 to 23. Some of the best high efficiency systems have two-speed compressors; the lower speed provides better, more efficient cooling and dehumidification under mild, part load conditions. When you are replacing a central air conditioning unit with a more efficient one, it\\u2019s very important to match the new outdoor unit and the indoor evaporator coil. You may be able to save some money on the installation by keeping your old coil but be careful: you\\u2019re unlikely to get the full efficiency ratings of the new unit. If you get a proposal to replace only the outdoor unit, the contractor should be able to demonstrate that the existing indoor coil is listed for use with the new outdoor unit; don\\u2019t accept \\u201cdon\\u2019t worry, it\\u2019s fine the way it is\\u201d as an answer.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3586\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sizing a system\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"12c6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Proper sizing has been emphasized as a key efficiency issue for years in the energy-efficiency world, but there\\u2019s little evidence that it affects operating costs very much. Duct leakage and insulation in unconditioned spaces are far more important, especially with modern, high efficiency equipment. \\n\\nOversized air conditioners do cost more to buy and maintain and require more airflow and larger ductwork. Dehumidification, which depends on air flowing through the evaporator coil for enough time to extract condensed moisture, is one important reason to carefully size an air conditioning system in humid climates. When an oversized system runs for only a few minutes, the moisture may just start to collect on the coils before the thermostat is satisfied. Once the unit shuts down, the moisture re-evaporates into the house. An air conditioner that is too large by 50 percent to 100 percent will be unable to control humidity effectively, so people may tend to set the thermostat lower to compensate. Many new, efficient air conditioners have multiple speeds or special dehumidification modes that can effectively compensate for oversizing; if you are in a humid climate, consider one of these features, or get a stand-alone dehumidifier.\\n\\nCorrect load calculations are based on your home\\u2019s window size, the glass type, and the size and R-values of the walls and roof. The proper size also varies with the direction the home faces: Sometimes a 90-degree rotation can cut the cooling load in half. If a contractor gives you a price for an air conditioner on the phone, or simply offers to replace the existing unit with a new one of the same size, get a bid from someone else, especially if you have already made energy improvements in your house. The money\\nyou save by buying a smaller unit may pay for an efficiency upgrade.\\n\\nWhen installing a new air conditioner, shop for value, not just for price. Other things to look for when assessing bids on new air-conditioning equipment include the warranties (from both the manufacturer and the installer), service contracts, longevity of the business, customer references, and technician knowledge. Try to find a contractor who is an Energy Star partner and\\/or NATE certified, or regularly attends manufacturer\\u2019s trainings.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"19ef\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Air_Conditioning_Pic3.png\",\"id\":2104},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"All new air conditioners have an Energy Guide label that shows its efficiency rating, as well as a comparison with the ratings of other units of the same type. Room units have an EER, while central systems have a SEER.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"830f179\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Ductless mini-split air conditioners are a great alternative to window units. They are more efficient and quieter, and they don\\u2019t use up a window (or allow air leakage). The most efficient units on the market are\\nalso heat pumps that can save money on your heating bills, too. A mini-split costs about 10 times as much as a decent window unit, but may cost a third to a half as much as retrofitting central air into an existing home.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"04b5abf\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/air_Conditioning_Pic4.png\",\"id\":2105},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"All new air conditioners have an Energy Guide label that shows its efficiency rating, as well as a comparison with the ratings of other units of the same type. Room units have an EER, while central systems have a 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style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open 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And Upgrades<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">New Air-Conditioning Systems<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"44bc\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1f54\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"d8c4e61\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"7ef8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Cooling Basics\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5721\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads\\u2014and bills\\u2014benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"14ad\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"110c\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"16ab\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Where does the heat come from?\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"c99\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it\\u2019s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \\n\\nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it\\u2019s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"eaea1d5\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"4f5bb73\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"3141f9a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"How air conditioners work\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b90e1e9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Virtually all residential air-conditioning systems use a compressor-driven refrigerant vapor cycle to cool house air. The compressor cycle controls refrigerant temperatures in the condenser and evaporator coils, which absorb heat from indoor air at a low temperature, then reject it outdoors at a higher temperature. Air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators all use the refrigerant vapor cycle to essentially push heat uphill, from a cooler place to a warmer place. An air conditioner pushes heat from the cool indoors to the hot outdoors, cooling the interior. In addition to sending indoor heat outdoors, an air conditioner must also reject the heat generated by the compressor and fan motors.\\n\\nAnother aspect of air conditioners is their ability to dehumidify, as well as cool, indoor air. This happens when water condenses on the cold fins of the evaporator coil as humid air passes across them. Dehumidification is an important component in maintaining healthy indoor air quality and comfort. Water that is evaporated in air contains quite a bit of heat energy, which must be accounted for in the system\\u2019s design. The energy required to remove excess humidity is called latent load, and it comes from moisture sources within the home and, in humid climates, outdoor air leaking indoors.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"2ede\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"417a\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7f8a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"4bd1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing Loads\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"4181\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"With cooling, just as with heating, as the loads are reduced you spend less to stay comfortable. Think of the air conditioner as removing heat that builds up, rather than \\u201ccooling down\\u201d the house. The better you are at preventing heat from building up, the less heat your air conditioner must remove and the less time it will have to run\\u2014saving you money. There are two approaches to reducing cooling loads: reducing\\nyour need for cooling and reducing heat gains in your house.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"78db\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reduce the need for cooling\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"769\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"One surefire way to cut cooling costs is to use your air conditioner less. A house with more insulation, better windows, and less air leakage is comfortable with no air-conditioning for more of the summer. Setting the thermostat higher, particularly when the house is empty, reduces the system\\u2019s run time and saves energy. \\n\\nFans can also help raise the temperature at which you feel comfortable. By installing an efficient ceiling fan and keeping the air moving in occupied rooms, most people can comfort- ably increase the temperature setting of their thermostat by 4\\u00b0F to 6\\u00b0F, saving 20 percent to 35 percent on their cooling bills. Fan flow\\nshould point downward to maximize the feeling of air movement in the room. Oscillating and box fans can also provide portable comfort. When using any type of indoor fan, remember that it will keep people cool only while they are in the room. Turn off fans when you are not using them, because they generate heat.\\n\\nCeiling-mounted whole-house fans that exhaust into the attic are another popular method to reduce the need for cooling, but they must be used properly to be effective. Air leaks between the attic and house must be sealed, and the attic must be well vented to the exterior, to ensure that the fan exhaust goes outdoors rather than back into the house.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1d03\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Air_Cond_Pic1.png\",\"id\":2102},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"When you buy a ceiling fan, always choose an Energy Star model. Hundreds are available, with or without built-in efficient lights, for $75 to $225 each.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5a17\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Duct insulation and sealing\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2423\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Air-conditioning ducts have the same leakage and insulation issues as those of heating ducts. In fact, leaks and missing insulation in attic ductwork hurt air-conditioning systems more than heating systems, because during peak cooling times attics are usually much hotter than outdoor ambient temperatures. 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Some things you can probably do yourself, whereas others require a professional technician.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1263\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Airflow\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3099\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Like heat pumps and furnaces, air-conditioning systems depend on adequate airflow to remove heat efficiently from your house. Whether you have a central air conditioner or individual room units, check the filters regularly and clean or replace them when they are dirty\\u2014 once or twice a season should be adequate. Because airflow is important, do not shut off any of the supply registers in the system\\u2014\\nespecially if the ducts are located in an attic, garage, or crawlspace.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4bf1\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Cleaning air coils\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"3d3e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"When filters don\\u2019t work properly or air gets around them, the evaporator coil can become clogged with dirt and dust. 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Instead, using a long-bristle brush with flexible bristles, carefully insert the bristles between the fins, and lift the dirt from behind. \",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1f3b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Regular service\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"5549\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Regular service calls\\u2014typically every two to three years\\u2014should include testing the controls, checking and cleaning the blower, condenser, and evaporator coils as needed, checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines, and checking the condensate drain. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing any airflow problems, and then carefully measuring and correcting the refrigerant charge. Like a heat pump, once that has been done, service technicians should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless there is evidence that something is wrong. Like a heat pump, an over- or undercharged air conditioner is less efficient (particularly older models), and systems are often improperly charged. Airflow must be in the recommended range of 400 CFM to 425 CFM per ton before the refrigerant charge can be measured. \\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2bf4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"id\":2103,\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Air_conditioning_Pic2.png\"},\"image_size\":\"full\",\"caption\":\"Window- or wall-mounted air conditioners have lower efficiency ratings than central systems, but there are no ducts to waste the cold air. And cooling only one or two rooms can use much less energy than cooling an entire house.\",\"_padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"d1fe686\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5975\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2b34\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"788\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"4b23\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"New Air-Conditioning Systems\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"637a\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"If you live in a hot climate and have central air conditioning that is 20 years old or more, replacing your system with a new, energy-efficient model should pay for itself in a reasonable time. High-efficiency systems on the market today are more than twice as efficient as systems from the 1980s. But before running out and replacing your system, you will first need to do two other things: Finish any upgrades on the building enclosure, and become familiar with air conditioning products and installation criteria. Of course, if you have a fairly new system (less than 10 years old), it is probably more cost effective to maintain it and keep it running as efficiently as possible until it wears out. As always, energy-efficient upgrades always cost the least when you are fixing or replacing something anyway. If your old air conditioner is on its last legs or not operating, replace it with the most efficient unit you can find.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"6ef2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"High-efficiency air-conditioning\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1545\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"New central air conditioners are rated for energy performance with a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER). SEER ratings are measurements under standardized test conditions of Btu per hour of cooling output, divided by input watts. The higher the SEER, the more efficient the system. New central air conditioners are required to have a SEER rating of at least 13; the most efficient units have SEER ratings from 16 to 23. Some of the best high efficiency systems have two-speed compressors; the lower speed provides better, more efficient cooling and dehumidification under mild, part load conditions. When you are replacing a central air conditioning unit with a more efficient one, it\\u2019s very important to match the new outdoor unit and the indoor evaporator coil. You may be able to save some money on the installation by keeping your old coil but be careful: you\\u2019re unlikely to get the full efficiency ratings of the new unit. If you get a proposal to replace only the outdoor unit, the contractor should be able to demonstrate that the existing indoor coil is listed for use with the new outdoor unit; don\\u2019t accept \\u201cdon\\u2019t worry, it\\u2019s fine the way it is\\u201d as an answer.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"3586\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Sizing a system\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"12c6\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Proper sizing has been emphasized as a key efficiency issue for years in the energy-efficiency world, but there\\u2019s little evidence that it affects operating costs very much. Duct leakage and insulation in unconditioned spaces are far more important, especially with modern, high efficiency equipment. \\n\\nOversized air conditioners do cost more to buy and maintain and require more airflow and larger ductwork. Dehumidification, which depends on air flowing through the evaporator coil for enough time to extract condensed moisture, is one important reason to carefully size an air conditioning system in humid climates. When an oversized system runs for only a few minutes, the moisture may just start to collect on the coils before the thermostat is satisfied. Once the unit shuts down, the moisture re-evaporates into the house. An air conditioner that is too large by 50 percent to 100 percent will be unable to control humidity effectively, so people may tend to set the thermostat lower to compensate. Many new, efficient air conditioners have multiple speeds or special dehumidification modes that can effectively compensate for oversizing; if you are in a humid climate, consider one of these features, or get a stand-alone dehumidifier.\\n\\nCorrect load calculations are based on your home\\u2019s window size, the glass type, and the size and R-values of the walls and roof. The proper size also varies with the direction the home faces: Sometimes a 90-degree rotation can cut the cooling load in half. If a contractor gives you a price for an air conditioner on the phone, or simply offers to replace the existing unit with a new one of the same size, get a bid from someone else, especially if you have already made energy improvements in your house. The money\\nyou save by buying a smaller unit may pay for an efficiency upgrade.\\n\\nWhen installing a new air conditioner, shop for value, not just for price. Other things to look for when assessing bids on new air-conditioning equipment include the warranties (from both the manufacturer and the installer), service contracts, longevity of the business, customer references, and technician knowledge. Try to find a contractor who is an Energy Star partner and\\/or NATE certified, or regularly attends manufacturer\\u2019s trainings.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"19ef\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Air_Conditioning_Pic3.png\",\"id\":2104},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"All new air conditioners have an Energy Guide label that shows its efficiency rating, as well as a comparison with the ratings of other units of the same type. 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A mini-split costs about 10 times as much as a decent window unit, but may cost a third to a half as much as retrofitting central air into an existing home.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"04b5abf\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/air_Conditioning_Pic4.png\",\"id\":2105},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"All new air conditioners have an Energy Guide label that shows its efficiency rating, as well as a comparison with the ratings of other units of the same type. 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& Lighting<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances\\u2019 energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3198\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"c75\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"19323f4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Reducing Run Time<\\/a>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Improving Efficiency<\\/a>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Buying New Appliances<\\/a>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Smart Shopping for New Appliances<\\/a>\\n\\n<a href=\\\"#anchor05\\\">Lighting<\\/a>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"24d0\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"17d5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"28bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6c51\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing Run Time\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"507f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don\\u2019t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It\\u2019s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back\\nwhen temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more\\u2014provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don\\u2019t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative\\nhumidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"5965\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"_margin_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"e78bebe\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"4225\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7543\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2fae\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"3426\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Improving Efficiency\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor02\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"b2e\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"It\\u2019s also possible to improve the efficiency of some appliances. Efficiency can often be increased by simple maintenance or by choosing the proper settings when using appliances.\\nRefrigeration The refrigerator is typically the biggest electricity user in the kitchen and is often the largest in the house. If your refrigerator is getting old, it\\u2019s probably worth replacing it with a new Energy Star model. New, efficient refrigerators use less than half the energy of standard models before 1993. If you are lucky enough to have a refrigerator that dates back to the 1970s or early 1980s and it still runs, take it\\nto the recycle center. Even if it\\u2019s the spare in the basement or garage, the energy savings will pay\\nfor a brand-new unit in just a few years. And buy the smallest, simplest fridge that will meet your\\nneeds; large Energy Star models use more electricity than smaller ones; through-door ice and\\nwater also use energy.\\n\\n To keep any refrigerator running right, ensure adequate air circulation around the unit. Keep it a few inches away from the wall, and don\\u2019t box it in with cabinets. It\\u2019s a good idea to vacuum the grill periodically, but there is no evidence that vacuuming dust off the coils inside actually saves electricity. Make sure the door seals are tight, keep the unit away from heat sources (don\\u2019t put it next\\nto the stove or dishwasher) and check the temperature setting. The refrigerator compartments\\nshould stay between 38\\u00b0F and 42\\u00b0F, and the freezer between 0\\u00b0F and 5\\u00b0F. If you have a power-saving switch, use it. Typically, the switch disables internal heaters that fight condensation; turn it off only if condensation occurs. Finally, keep refrigerators and freezers reasonably full; they are less efficient when they are nearly empty. Even more important, avoid the temptation to keep the old fridge in the garage\\nor basement for overflow (or the odd six-pack). Buying a new, highly efficient refrigerator won\\u2019t save any energy if you keep the old one running!\\n\\nIt\\u2019s a common mistake to assume that if the fridge is only keeping a few items cold it\\u2019s not working very hard. A refrigerator uses most of its energy keeping the inside of the box cold\\u2014even if it\\u2019s completely empty. If you can\\u2019t do without it, unplug the spare until you need it to stock up for that holiday gathering. One more buying tip: A manual-defrost chest freezer uses far less energy than an upright, auto-defrost\\nunit. Modern, airtight chest freezers rarely need defrosting, and are less likely to damage food\\nwith freezer burn.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4cbe\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"5c5\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2664\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"23c0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5236\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"31c9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"0d42bd8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Buying Appliances\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"e23d211\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Laundry\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"182f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Washing clothes uses energy in three ways: Washers and dryers have motors that move clothes and water; washers use hot water, which is heated with gas or electricity; and dryers heat clothes to dry them out. When you do a load of laundry, pay attention to the washer settings. Always use a cold-water rinse, and use a warm or cold wash for loads when you can. A warm\\/ cold cycle uses about half as much total energy as a hot\\/cold cycle. Also, pay attention to the size of the load; fill, but don\\u2019t overload, the machine for best efficiency. If you do run a smaller load, set the wash level appropriately. The settings on your washer also affect drying time. Use the fastest spin setting whenever you can, to remove the most water.\\n\\n For dryer efficiency, keep the lint filter clean, and check the outlet periodically for lint that may be clogging the vent. If your dryer hose is kinked, twisted, or too long, replace it with as short and direct a run as possible, preferably with a straight sheet-metal duct instead of a flexible vinyl or aluminum duct. Try to run several loads in succession to take advantage of retained heat, and fill, but don\\u2019t overload, the machine. Of course, if the weather\\u2019s good, you can also dry clothes outside on a line. \\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"0ee8b16\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Dishwasher\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"068c9e0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"You can minimize dishwasher energy by paying attention to the settings. Don\\u2019t use the \\u201cHeavy\\u201d or \\u201cPots and Pans\\u201d cycle unless you really need to. A fast scraping or rinsing of dishes (especially starchy stuff) does help the dishwasher do a better job, so you can use the \\u201cLight\\u201d setting. But always use cold water for pre-rinsing. Use a premium dishwasher detergent, and let the dishwasher do the job it\\u2019s designed for: cutting grease. Wait until the machine is full before using it: It uses the same amount of energy whether you wash one dish or thirty. Many new dishwashers have sensors that stop the machine as particulates in the water clear (indicating that the dishes are clean). If you don\\u2019t have to take the dishes out right away, you can run the machine with the \\u201cAir-Dry\\u201d setting (sometimes called \\u201cEnergy Saver\\u201d).\\nIt\\u2019s okay to use the dishwasher: In fact, research shows that even careful hand washing uses more hot water and soap than a modern dishwasher. And today\\u2019s very efficient dishwashers are reasonably priced\\u2014there are Energy Star\\u2013rated dishwashers at every point in the price spectrum.\\nsize of the load; fill, but don\\u2019t overload, the machine for best efficiency. If you do run a smaller load, set the wash level appropriately. The settings on your washer also affect drying time. Use the fastest spin setting whenever you can, to remove the most water.\\n\\nFor dryer efficiency, keep the lint filter clean, and check the outlet periodically for lint that may be clogging the vent. If your dryer hose is kinked, twisted, or too long, replace it with as short and direct a run as possible, preferably with a straight sheet-metal duct instead of a flexible vinyl or aluminum duct. Try to run several loads in succession to take advantage of retained heat, and fill, but don\\u2019t overload, the machine. Of course, if the weather\\u2019s good, you can also dry clothes outside on a line.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"660b\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"7de4065\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"7505\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"2de8\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"29\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6944\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Smart Shopping for New Appliances\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor04\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"649\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>Minimum efficiency regulations for new appliances have increased over the years, so even the least-efficient new models typically use much less energy than appliances that are 10 or more years old.<br \\/>In most cases, it\\u2019s not cost-effective to go out and buy new, energy-efficient products just to save energy. Two exceptions to this rule are older refrigerators and dehumidifiers. For other appliances, look for the most efficient products available when you do go shopping\\u2014and always choose an Energy Star\\u2013labeled appliance at a minimum. It\\u2019s worth some research in advance; even within the Energy Star labeling program, there can be a wide range of efficiency. For example, to get an Energy Star label, refrigerators<br \\/>must save at least 20 percent over federal standards, but some models save over 50 percent. Also, minimum requirements vary with features: A side-by-side model with through-door ice can use almost 50 percent more than a top-freezer model without ice\\u2014even though both are Energy Star rated. Listings of efficiency levels by model number for most Energy Star products are available at www.energystar.gov\\/products.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"4909\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\",\"id\":\"\"},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"697d\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"d397254\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"c62fa31\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"b97adb9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"79b5071\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Lighting\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor05\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"be18440\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"There are two basic approaches to making the lights in your home more efficient: eliminate unnecessary usage and use the most efficient products available. Many of us heard the message \\u201cturn off lights when you\\u2019re not using them\\u201d while we were growing up. Of course, how much light you need is a matter of eyesight and personal taste. Turning off a light isn\\u2019t always a practical solution, except when you leave the\\nroom\\u2014then there\\u2019s no excuse. One of the best ways to eliminate unnecessary light usage is with controls. Regularly used indoor lights can be put on timers or occupancy sensors so they aren\\u2019t left on for hours when no one is using them. Exterior walkway and security lighting can be put on a combination of\\ntimers, motion sensors, or photocell controls to minimize their use while ensuring that they are\\non whenever needed.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1330\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"LED Lighting\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"a0d19fc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>LED lighting technology is developing rapidly. In just a few years, a number of good-quality LEDs have become available (though they are still expensive). The products will keep getting better, and prices will continue to drop, over the next few years at least. LEDs are fundamentally different than other light sources. An LED is a semiconductor\\u2014basically, a tiny computer chip\\u2014that generates light. LEDs have been around for decades in electronic equipment displays and status lights, but by nature a single LED generates a focused point-source of light in a single, saturated color such as red, yellow, or blue. Getting an LED to look like an incandescent bulb is a challenge; most manufacturers combine many LEDs of different colors to approximate warm, yellow-white light and to disperse the light in a useful 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& Lighting<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances\\u2019 energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3198\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"c75\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"19323f4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Reducing Run Time<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Improving Efficiency<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Smart Shopping for New Appliances<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Lighting<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"24d0\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"17d5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"28bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6c51\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing Run Time\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"507f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don\\u2019t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It\\u2019s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back when temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more\\u2014provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don\\u2019t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative humidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\\n\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"e78bebe\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5236\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"31c9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"0d42bd8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Improving efficiency\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"e23d211\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Refrigeration \",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"182f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The refrigerator is typically the biggest electricity user in the kitchen and is often the largest in the house. If your refrigerator is getting old, it\\u2019s probably worth replacing it with a new Energy Star model. New, efficient refrigerators use less than half the energy of standard models before 1993. If you are lucky enough to have a refrigerator that dates back to the 1970s or early 1980s and it still runs, take it to the recycle center. Even if it\\u2019s the spare in the basement or garage, the energy savings will pay for a brand-new unit in just a few years. And buy the smallest, simplest fridge that will meet your needs; large Energy Star models use more electricity than smaller ones; through-door ice and water also use energy.\\n\\nTo keep any refrigerator running right, ensure adequate air circulation around the unit. Keep it a few inches away from the wall, and don\\u2019t box it in with cabinets. It\\u2019s a good idea to vacuum the grill periodically, but there is no evidence that vacuuming dust off the coils inside actually saves electricity. Make sure the door seals are tight, keep the unit away from heat sources (don\\u2019t put it next to the stove or dishwasher) and check the temperature setting. The refrigerator compartments should stay between 38\\u00b0F and 42\\u00b0F, and the freezer between 0\\u00b0F and 5\\u00b0F. If you have a power-saving switch, use it. Typically, the switch disables internal heaters that fight condensation; turn it off only if condensation occurs. Finally, keep refrigerators and freezers reasonably full; they are less efficient when they are nearly empty. Even more important, avoid the temptation to keep the old fridge in the garage or basement for overflow (or the odd six-pack). Buying a new, highly efficient refrigerator won\\u2019t save any energy if you keep the old one running!\\n\\nIt\\u2019s a common mistake to assume that if the fridge is only keeping a few items cold it\\u2019s not working very hard. A refrigerator uses most of its energy keeping the inside of the box cold\\u2014even if it\\u2019s completely empty. If you can\\u2019t do without it, unplug the spare until you need it to stock up for that holiday gathering. One more buying tip: A manual-defrost chest freezer uses far less energy than an upright, auto-defrost unit. Modern, airtight chest freezers rarely need defrosting, and are less likely to damage food with freezer burn.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"0ee8b16\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Laundry\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"068c9e0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Washing clothes uses energy in three ways: Washers and dryers have motors that move clothes and water; washers use hot water, which is heated with gas or electricity; and dryers heat clothes to dry them out. When you do a load of laundry, pay attention to the washer settings. Always use a cold-water rinse, and use a warm or cold wash for loads when you can. A warm\\/ cold cycle uses about half as much total energy as a hot\\/cold cycle. Also, pay attention to the size of the load; fill, but don\\u2019t overload, the machine for best efficiency. If you do run a smaller load, set the wash level appropriately. The settings on your washer also affect drying time. Use the fastest spin setting whenever you can, to remove the most water.\\n\\nFor dryer efficiency, keep the lint filter clean, and check the outlet periodically for lint that may be clogging the vent. If your dryer hose is kinked, twisted, or too long, replace it with as short and direct a run as possible, preferably with a straight sheet-metal duct instead of a flexible vinyl or aluminum duct. Try to run several loads in succession to take advantage of retained heat, and fill, but don\\u2019t overload, the machine. Of course, if the weather\\u2019s good, you can also dry clothes outside on a line. \\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"e44f044\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Dishwasher\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9924843\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"You can minimize dishwasher energy by paying attention to the settings. Don\\u2019t use the \\u201cHeavy\\u201d or \\u201cPots and Pans\\u201d cycle unless you really need to. A fast scraping or rinsing of dishes (especially starchy stuff) does help the dishwasher do a better job, so you can use the \\u201cLight\\u201d setting. But always use cold water for pre-rinsing. Use a premium dishwasher detergent, and let the dishwasher do the job it\\u2019s designed for: cutting grease. Wait until the machine is full before using it: It uses the same amount of energy whether you wash one dish or thirty. Many new dishwashers have sensors that stop the machine as particulates in the water clear (indicating that the dishes are clean). If you don\\u2019t have to take the dishes out right away, you can run the machine with the \\u201cAir-Dry\\u201d setting (sometimes called \\u201cEnergy Saver\\u201d).\\n\\nIt\\u2019s okay to use the dishwasher: In fact, research shows that even careful hand washing uses more hot water and soap than a modern dishwasher. And today\\u2019s very efficient dishwashers are reasonably priced\\u2014there are Energy Star\\u2013rated dishwashers at every point in the price spectrum.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2378809\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Appliances_Pic1.png\",\"id\":2113},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"Front-loading clothes washers use less water and less energy and are easier on your clothes.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"7de4065\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"701bbf2\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"8f8383a\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"eb17735\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"49d29d2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Smart shopping for new appliances\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"302636f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Minimum efficiency regulations for new appliances have increased over the years, so even the least-efficient new models typically use much less energy than appliances that are 10 or more years old. In most cases, it\\u2019s not cost-effective to go out and buy new, energy-efficient products just to save energy. Two exceptions to this rule are older refrigerators and dehumidifiers. For other appliances, look for the most efficient products available when you do go shopping\\u2014and always choose an Energy Star\\u2013labeled appliance at a minimum. It\\u2019s worth some research in advance; even within the Energy Star labeling program, there can be a wide range of efficiency. For example, to get an Energy Star label, refrigerators must save at least 20 percent over federal standards, but some models save over 50 percent. Also, minimum requirements vary with features: A side-by-side model with through-door ice can use almost 50 percent more than a top-freezer model without ice\\u2014even though both are Energy Star rated. Listings of efficiency levels by model number for most Energy Star products are available at www.energystar.gov\\/products.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"c602803\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"d397254\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"c62fa31\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"b97adb9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"79b5071\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Lighting\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor05\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"be18440\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"There are two basic approaches to making the lights in your home more efficient: eliminate unnecessary usage and use the most efficient products available. Many of us heard the message \\u201cturn off lights when you\\u2019re not using them\\u201d while we were growing up. Of course, how much light you need is a matter of eyesight and personal taste. Turning off a light isn\\u2019t always a practical solution, except when you leave the room\\u2014then there\\u2019s no excuse. One of the best ways to eliminate unnecessary light usage is with controls. Regularly used indoor lights can be put on timers or occupancy sensors so they aren\\u2019t left on for hours when no one is using them. 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In just a few years, a number of good-quality LEDs have become available (though they are still expensive). The products will keep getting better, and prices will continue to drop, over the next few years at least. LEDs are fundamentally different than other light sources. An LED is a semiconductor\\u2014basically, a tiny computer chip\\u2014that generates light. LEDs have been around for decades in electronic equipment displays and status lights, but by nature a single LED generates a focused point-source of light in a single, saturated color such as red, yellow, or blue. 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fa-linkedin\",\"_id\":\"dc10550\",\"link\":{\"is_external\":\"true\",\"url\":\"https:\\/\\/www.linkedin.com\\/company\\/energy-new-england\\/\",\"stylepress_template\":\"\",\"stylepress_display\":\"\",\"stylepress_width\":\"500\",\"nofollow\":\"\"}}],\"align\":\"\",\"icon_color\":\"custom\",\"icon_primary_color\":\"rgba(0,0,0,0)\",\"icon_secondary_color\":\"rgba(255,255,255,0.45)\",\"icon_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":15},\"icon_padding\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":0},\"icon_spacing\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"hover_secondary_color\":\"#f49ac3\",\"align_mobile\":\"left\",\"align_tablet\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"social-icons\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false}]'),(12245,2114,'_elementor_version','0.4'),(12246,2114,'_elementor_template_type','post'),(12247,2115,'_elementor_edit_mode','builder'),(12248,2115,'_wp_page_template','default'),(12249,2115,'_elementor_page_settings','a:1:{s:21:\"background_background\";s:7:\"classic\";}'),(12250,2115,'_elementor_data','[{\"id\":\"ca8\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"background_background\":\"gradient\",\"margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":0,\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":0,\"isLinked\":true},\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7f93\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1b3c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"<p>Appliances & Lighting<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances\\u2019 energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3198\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"c75\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"19323f4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Reducing Run Time<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Improving Efficiency<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Smart Shopping for New Appliances<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Lighting<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"24d0\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"17d5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"28bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6c51\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing Run Time\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"507f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don\\u2019t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It\\u2019s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back when temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more\\u2014provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don\\u2019t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative humidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\\n\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"e78bebe\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5236\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"31c9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"0d42bd8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Improving efficiency\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"182f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>It\\u2019s also possible to improve the efficiency of some appliances. Efficiency can often be increased by simple maintenance or by choosing the proper settings when using appliances.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"e23d211\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Refrigeration \",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"c6e4ba7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The refrigerator is typically the biggest electricity user in the kitchen and is often the largest in the house. If your refrigerator is getting old, it\\u2019s probably worth replacing it with a new Energy Star model. New, efficient refrigerators use less than half the energy of standard models before 1993. If you are lucky enough to have a refrigerator that dates back to the 1970s or early 1980s and it still runs, take it to the recycle center. Even if it\\u2019s the spare in the basement or garage, the energy savings will pay for a brand-new unit in just a few years. And buy the smallest, simplest fridge that will meet your needs; large Energy Star models use more electricity than smaller ones; through-door ice and water also use energy.\\n\\nTo keep any refrigerator running right, ensure adequate air circulation around the unit. Keep it a few inches away from the wall, and don\\u2019t box it in with cabinets. It\\u2019s a good idea to vacuum the grill periodically, but there is no evidence that vacuuming dust off the coils inside actually saves electricity. Make sure the door seals are tight, keep the unit away from heat sources (don\\u2019t put it next to the stove or dishwasher) and check the temperature setting. The refrigerator compartments should stay between 38\\u00b0F and 42\\u00b0F, and the freezer between 0\\u00b0F and 5\\u00b0F. If you have a power-saving switch, use it. Typically, the switch disables internal heaters that fight condensation; turn it off only if condensation occurs. Finally, keep refrigerators and freezers reasonably full; they are less efficient when they are nearly empty. Even more important, avoid the temptation to keep the old fridge in the garage or basement for overflow (or the odd six-pack). Buying a new, highly efficient refrigerator won\\u2019t save any energy if you keep the old one running!\\n\\nIt\\u2019s a common mistake to assume that if the fridge is only keeping a few items cold it\\u2019s not working very hard. A refrigerator uses most of its energy keeping the inside of the box cold\\u2014even if it\\u2019s completely empty. If you can\\u2019t do without it, unplug the spare until you need it to stock up for that holiday gathering. One more buying tip: A manual-defrost chest freezer uses far less energy than an upright, auto-defrost unit. Modern, airtight chest freezers rarely need defrosting, and are less likely to damage food with freezer burn.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"0ee8b16\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Laundry\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"068c9e0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Washing clothes uses energy in three ways: Washers and dryers have motors that move clothes and water; washers use hot water, which is heated with gas or electricity; and dryers heat clothes to dry them out. When you do a load of laundry, pay attention to the washer settings. Always use a cold-water rinse, and use a warm or cold wash for loads when you can. A warm\\/ cold cycle uses about half as much total energy as a hot\\/cold cycle. Also, pay attention to the size of the load; fill, but don\\u2019t overload, the machine for best efficiency. If you do run a smaller load, set the wash level appropriately. The settings on your washer also affect drying time. Use the fastest spin setting whenever you can, to remove the most water.\\n\\nFor dryer efficiency, keep the lint filter clean, and check the outlet periodically for lint that may be clogging the vent. If your dryer hose is kinked, twisted, or too long, replace it with as short and direct a run as possible, preferably with a straight sheet-metal duct instead of a flexible vinyl or aluminum duct. Try to run several loads in succession to take advantage of retained heat, and fill, but don\\u2019t overload, the machine. Of course, if the weather\\u2019s good, you can also dry clothes outside on a line. \\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"e44f044\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Dishwasher\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9924843\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"You can minimize dishwasher energy by paying attention to the settings. Don\\u2019t use the \\u201cHeavy\\u201d or \\u201cPots and Pans\\u201d cycle unless you really need to. A fast scraping or rinsing of dishes (especially starchy stuff) does help the dishwasher do a better job, so you can use the \\u201cLight\\u201d setting. But always use cold water for pre-rinsing. Use a premium dishwasher detergent, and let the dishwasher do the job it\\u2019s designed for: cutting grease. Wait until the machine is full before using it: It uses the same amount of energy whether you wash one dish or thirty. Many new dishwashers have sensors that stop the machine as particulates in the water clear (indicating that the dishes are clean). If you don\\u2019t have to take the dishes out right away, you can run the machine with the \\u201cAir-Dry\\u201d setting (sometimes called \\u201cEnergy Saver\\u201d).\\n\\nIt\\u2019s okay to use the dishwasher: In fact, research shows that even careful hand washing uses more hot water and soap than a modern dishwasher. And today\\u2019s very efficient dishwashers are reasonably priced\\u2014there are Energy Star\\u2013rated dishwashers at every point in the price spectrum.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"2378809\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"image\":{\"url\":\"\\/wp-content\\/uploads\\/2018\\/07\\/Appliances_Pic1.png\",\"id\":2113},\"image_size\":\"custom\",\"align\":\"center\",\"image_custom_dimension\":{\"width\":\"700\",\"height\":\"\"},\"caption\":\"Front-loading clothes washers use less water and less energy and are easier on your clothes.\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"image\"},{\"id\":\"7de4065\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"701bbf2\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"8f8383a\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"eb17735\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"49d29d2\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Smart shopping for new appliances\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"302636f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Minimum efficiency regulations for new appliances have increased over the years, so even the least-efficient new models typically use much less energy than appliances that are 10 or more years old. In most cases, it\\u2019s not cost-effective to go out and buy new, energy-efficient products just to save energy. Two exceptions to this rule are older refrigerators and dehumidifiers. For other appliances, look for the most efficient products available when you do go shopping\\u2014and always choose an Energy Star\\u2013labeled appliance at a minimum. It\\u2019s worth some research in advance; even within the Energy Star labeling program, there can be a wide range of efficiency. For example, to get an Energy Star label, refrigerators must save at least 20 percent over federal standards, but some models save over 50 percent. Also, minimum requirements vary with features: A side-by-side model with through-door ice can use almost 50 percent more than a top-freezer model without ice\\u2014even though both are Energy Star rated. Listings of efficiency levels by model number for most Energy Star products are available at www.energystar.gov\\/products.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"c602803\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"d397254\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"c62fa31\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"b97adb9\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"gap_tablet\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":40}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"79b5071\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Lighting\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor05\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"be18440\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"There are two basic approaches to making the lights in your home more efficient: eliminate unnecessary usage and use the most efficient products available. Many of us heard the message \\u201cturn off lights when you\\u2019re not using them\\u201d while we were growing up. Of course, how much light you need is a matter of eyesight and personal taste. Turning off a light isn\\u2019t always a practical solution, except when you leave the room\\u2014then there\\u2019s no excuse. One of the best ways to eliminate unnecessary light usage is with controls. Regularly used indoor lights can be put on timers or occupancy sensors so they aren\\u2019t left on for hours when no one is using them. Exterior walkway and security lighting can be put on a combination of timers, motion sensors, or photocell controls to minimize their use while ensuring that they are on whenever needed.\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"1330\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"LED Lighting\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"a0d19fc\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>LED lighting technology is developing rapidly. In just a few years, a number of good-quality LEDs have become available (though they are still expensive). The products will keep getting better, and prices will continue to drop, over the next few years at least. LEDs are fundamentally different than other light sources. An LED is a semiconductor\\u2014basically, a tiny computer chip\\u2014that generates light. LEDs have been around for decades in electronic equipment displays and status lights, but by nature a single LED generates a focused point-source of light in a single, saturated color such as red, yellow, or blue. Getting an LED to look like an incandescent bulb is a challenge; most manufacturers combine many LEDs of different colors to approximate warm, yellow-white light and to disperse the light in a useful 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media\",\"title_color\":\"#ffffff\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":15},\"typography_font_weight\":\"400\",\"typography_text_transform\":\"uppercase\",\"header_size\":\"h4\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"2e57\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"social_icon_list\":[{\"social\":\"fa fa-linkedin\",\"_id\":\"dc10550\",\"link\":{\"is_external\":\"true\",\"url\":\"https:\\/\\/www.linkedin.com\\/company\\/energy-new-england\\/\",\"stylepress_template\":\"\",\"stylepress_display\":\"\",\"stylepress_width\":\"500\",\"nofollow\":\"\"}}],\"align\":\"\",\"icon_color\":\"custom\",\"icon_primary_color\":\"rgba(0,0,0,0)\",\"icon_secondary_color\":\"rgba(255,255,255,0.45)\",\"icon_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":15},\"icon_padding\":{\"unit\":\"em\",\"size\":0},\"icon_spacing\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"hover_secondary_color\":\"#f49ac3\",\"align_mobile\":\"left\",\"align_tablet\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"social-icons\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false}]'),(12251,2115,'_elementor_version','0.4'),(12252,2115,'_elementor_template_type','post'),(12253,2116,'_elementor_edit_mode','builder'),(12254,2116,'_wp_page_template','default'),(12255,2116,'_elementor_page_settings','a:1:{s:21:\"background_background\";s:7:\"classic\";}'),(12256,2116,'_elementor_data','[{\"id\":\"ca8\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":{\"background_background\":\"gradient\",\"margin\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":0,\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":0,\"isLinked\":true},\"padding\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"top\":\"0\",\"right\":\"0\",\"bottom\":\"0\",\"left\":\"0\",\"isLinked\":true}},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"7f93\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"1b3c\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"<p>Appliances & Lighting<span style=\\\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\\\"><\\/span><\\/p>\",\"align\":\"center\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_family\":\"Open Sans\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":48},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":36},\"typography_font_weight\":\"normal\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":60},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":46},\"_background_color\":\"#217094\",\"_background_color_b\":\"#217094\",\"_background_gradient_angle\":{\"unit\":\"deg\",\"size\":190}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"1a01\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances\\u2019 energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"3198\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"c75\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"color_text\":\"#333333\",\"color_link\":\"#217094\",\"color_link_hover\":\"#7a7a7a\",\"text_align\":\"left\"},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"19323f4\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p><a href=\\\"#anchor01\\\">Reducing Run Time<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor02\\\">Improving Efficiency<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor03\\\">Smart Shopping for New Appliances<\\/a><\\/p>\\n\\n<p><a href=\\\"#anchor04\\\">Lighting<\\/a><\\/p>\",\"text_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":20},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":30},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28},\"custom_css\":\"#anchor01\\n#anchor02\\n#anchor03\\n#anchor04\\n#anchor05\\n\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"24d0\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"17d5\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"28bd\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6c51\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Reducing Run Time\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor01\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"507f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don\\u2019t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It\\u2019s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back when temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more\\u2014provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don\\u2019t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative humidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\\n\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"e78bebe\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"spacer\"}],\"isInner\":false}],\"isInner\":false},{\"id\":\"5236\",\"elType\":\"section\",\"settings\":[],\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"31c9\",\"elType\":\"column\",\"settings\":{\"_column_size\":100,\"_inline_size\":null},\"elements\":[{\"id\":\"0d42bd8\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"color\":\"#7a7a7a\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"divider\"},{\"id\":\"6138\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Improving efficiency\",\"header_size\":\"h1\",\"title_color\":\"#217094\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":34},\"_element_id\":\"anchor03\"},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"182f\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"<p>It\\u2019s also possible to improve the efficiency of some appliances. Efficiency can often be increased by simple maintenance or by choosing the proper settings when using appliances.<\\/p>\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"e23d211\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Refrigeration \",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"c6e4ba7\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"The refrigerator is typically the biggest electricity user in the kitchen and is often the largest in the house. If your refrigerator is getting old, it\\u2019s probably worth replacing it with a new Energy Star model. New, efficient refrigerators use less than half the energy of standard models before 1993. If you are lucky enough to have a refrigerator that dates back to the 1970s or early 1980s and it still runs, take it to the recycle center. Even if it\\u2019s the spare in the basement or garage, the energy savings will pay for a brand-new unit in just a few years. And buy the smallest, simplest fridge that will meet your needs; large Energy Star models use more electricity than smaller ones; through-door ice and water also use energy.\\n\\nTo keep any refrigerator running right, ensure adequate air circulation around the unit. Keep it a few inches away from the wall, and don\\u2019t box it in with cabinets. It\\u2019s a good idea to vacuum the grill periodically, but there is no evidence that vacuuming dust off the coils inside actually saves electricity. Make sure the door seals are tight, keep the unit away from heat sources (don\\u2019t put it next to the stove or dishwasher) and check the temperature setting. The refrigerator compartments should stay between 38\\u00b0F and 42\\u00b0F, and the freezer between 0\\u00b0F and 5\\u00b0F. If you have a power-saving switch, use it. Typically, the switch disables internal heaters that fight condensation; turn it off only if condensation occurs. Finally, keep refrigerators and freezers reasonably full; they are less efficient when they are nearly empty. Even more important, avoid the temptation to keep the old fridge in the garage or basement for overflow (or the odd six-pack). Buying a new, highly efficient refrigerator won\\u2019t save any energy if you keep the old one running!\\n\\nIt\\u2019s a common mistake to assume that if the fridge is only keeping a few items cold it\\u2019s not working very hard. A refrigerator uses most of its energy keeping the inside of the box cold\\u2014even if it\\u2019s completely empty. If you can\\u2019t do without it, unplug the spare until you need it to stock up for that holiday gathering. One more buying tip: A manual-defrost chest freezer uses far less energy than an upright, auto-defrost unit. Modern, airtight chest freezers rarely need defrosting, and are less likely to damage food with freezer burn.\\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"0ee8b16\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Laundry\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"068c9e0\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"Washing clothes uses energy in three ways: Washers and dryers have motors that move clothes and water; washers use hot water, which is heated with gas or electricity; and dryers heat clothes to dry them out. When you do a load of laundry, pay attention to the washer settings. Always use a cold-water rinse, and use a warm or cold wash for loads when you can. A warm\\/ cold cycle uses about half as much total energy as a hot\\/cold cycle. Also, pay attention to the size of the load; fill, but don\\u2019t overload, the machine for best efficiency. If you do run a smaller load, set the wash level appropriately. The settings on your washer also affect drying time. Use the fastest spin setting whenever you can, to remove the most water.\\n\\nFor dryer efficiency, keep the lint filter clean, and check the outlet periodically for lint that may be clogging the vent. If your dryer hose is kinked, twisted, or too long, replace it with as short and direct a run as possible, preferably with a straight sheet-metal duct instead of a flexible vinyl or aluminum duct. Try to run several loads in succession to take advantage of retained heat, and fill, but don\\u2019t overload, the machine. Of course, if the weather\\u2019s good, you can also dry clothes outside on a line. \\n\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":16},\"typography_font_size_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":14},\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":26},\"typography_line_height_mobile\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":24}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"text-editor\"},{\"id\":\"e44f044\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"title\":\"Dishwasher\",\"header_size\":\"p\",\"title_color\":\"#333333\",\"typography_typography\":\"custom\",\"typography_font_size\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":18},\"typography_font_weight\":\"600\",\"typography_line_height\":{\"unit\":\"px\",\"size\":28}},\"elements\":[],\"widgetType\":\"heading\"},{\"id\":\"9924843\",\"elType\":\"widget\",\"settings\":{\"editor\":\"You can minimize dishwasher energy by paying attention to the settings. 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