[{"id":"22a5","elType":"section","settings":{"background_background":"gradient","margin":{"unit":"px","top":"0","right":0,"bottom":"0","left":0,"isLinked":true},"padding":{"unit":"px","top":"0","right":"0","bottom":"0","left":"0","isLinked":true}},"elements":[{"id":"46cc","elType":"column","settings":{"_column_size":100},"elements":[{"id":"1a9a","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"<p>Heating<span style=\"font-family: &quot;Open Sans&quot;, sans-serif; font-size: 48px; font-weight: normal; background-color: transparent;\"><\/span><\/p>","align":"center","title_color":"#217094","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_family":"Open Sans","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":48},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":36},"typography_font_weight":"normal","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":60},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":46},"_background_color":"#217094","_background_color_b":"#217094","_background_gradient_angle":{"unit":"deg","size":190}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"}],"isInner":false}],"isInner":false},{"id":"3878","elType":"section","settings":[],"elements":[{"id":"52b4","elType":"column","settings":{"_column_size":100,"color_text":"#333333","color_link":"#217094","color_link_hover":"#7a7a7a","text_align":"left"},"elements":[{"id":"7ebf","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"<a href=\"#anchor01\">Efficiency Losses in a Heating System<\/a>\n\n<a href=\"#anchor02\">Duct Sealing<\/a>\n\n<a href=\"#anchor03\">Furnaces<\/a>\n\n<a href=\"#anchor04\">Heat Pumps<\/a>\n\n<a href=\"#anchor05\">Electric-Resistance Heat<\/a>\n\n<a href=\"#anchor06\">Hot-Water and Steam Boilers<\/a>\n\n<a href=\"#anchor07\">Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment<\/a>","text_color":"#217094","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":20},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":30},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":28},"custom_css":"#anchor01\n#anchor02\n#anchor03\n#anchor04\n#anchor05\n"},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"}],"isInner":false}],"isInner":false},{"id":"5a1","elType":"section","settings":[],"elements":[{"id":"6edc","elType":"column","settings":{"_column_size":100,"_inline_size":null},"elements":[{"id":"52ef","elType":"widget","settings":{"color":"#7a7a7a"},"elements":[],"widgetType":"divider"},{"id":"e34","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Efficiency Losses in a Heating System","header_size":"h1","title_color":"#217094","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":24},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":34},"_element_id":"anchor01"},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"329c","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"Not all the energy in the fuel you buy contributes to heating your house. Your heating system\u2019s efficiency is the amount of useful heat you get as a percentage of purchased energy. Anything less than 100 percent represents waste, or lost efficiency. There are three kinds of heating system losses: combustion loss, cycling loss, and distribution loss. Combustion loss is simply the heat that goes up the chimney; it varies from about 30 percent to as little as 3 percent. That leaves a combustion efficiency between 70 percent and 97 percent; that is, the percentage of the fuel you buy that is converted to heat in the equipment. Combustion efficiency is mostly affected by equipment design; unless the burners are badly out of tune, it can\u2019t be improved much unless you buy a new unit.\n\n Cycling losses occur when the heating equipment starts and stops. Each time the unit shuts off, some heat remains inside; some of that heat goes up the chimney. Cycling losses are affected by the equipment design, location, and controls; some efficiency improvements can be made if the controls are set poorly to begin with. Distribution losses occur when heat generated in the equipment gets out of the house before it reaches its destination. Distribution losses include duct air leaks and conductive losses through uninsulated ducts or pipes. Distribution losses can be significant: 5 percent to 30 percent, so in many homes a large improvement can be made.\n","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":24},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"}],"isInner":false}],"isInner":false},{"id":"6f08","elType":"section","settings":[],"elements":[{"id":"5a85","elType":"column","settings":{"_column_size":100,"_inline_size":null},"elements":[{"id":"1dfb","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Comfort and energy use","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"4f60","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"Another fairly simple factor that affects heating-system performance is system balancing. Balancing refers to the temperature consistency from one room to the next. If one or more rooms are consistently too cold, people tend to set the thermostat high enough to be comfortable in those rooms. The rest of the house then overheats, using more energy. Balancing problems can be caused by thermal defects in the building, by problems in the distribution system, or by the thermostat location. Rooms that have air leaks, drafts, or missing insulation may lose heat faster than neighboring rooms, or they may just be uncomfortable. Thermal problems should be fixed before addressing the heating system. Once the building enclosure is properly treated, the distribution system can usually be adjusted for better balance.","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"}],"isInner":false}],"isInner":false},{"id":"6d24","elType":"section","settings":[],"elements":[{"id":"2bf0","elType":"column","settings":{"_column_size":100,"_inline_size":null},"elements":[{"id":"13d5","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Duct-Sealing","header_size":"h1","title_color":"#217094","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":24},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":34},"_element_id":"anchor02"},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"31dc","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"<p>Air leaks in a duct system can have an enormous effect on your house. Duct leaks rob a furnace, heat pump, or central air system of energy\u2014 sometimes close to half. Leaks can cause comfort problems, drive moisture flows, and sometimes even lead to dangerous back drafting of combustion equipment. Leaky basement ducts don\u2019t usually waste much energy; sealing them is pretty easy, but there\u2019s not much value to it. But ducts located in attics, garages, or vented crawlspaces can be a big energy problem. Sealing them can be the biggest opportunity for energy savings in many homes. Leaky ducts do more than let heat out. They also increase the air exchange in a house by 30 percent to 300 percent whenever the air handler is running. That is why furnaces have the reputation for drying out houses. Return leaks in a mechanical room or basement can backdraft a nearby water heater or even the furnace itself. Return leaks can also draw in radon gas, water vapor, subsoil pesticides, or airborne mold spores, distributing them throughout the house.<\/p><p>Supply air leaking into an attic or enclosed cathedral ceiling cavity can deliver moisture at an accelerated rate to cold roof sheathing, causing condensation. If the ducts also carry central air-conditioning, return leaks can bring in outdoor humidity in the summer, reducing cooling efficiency, and leaks can draw outside air into building cavities, where moisture can lead to mold inside the house. Duct leaks are even more important than shell air leaks: Each hole and crack is under pressure from the furnace fan and leaks the hot air from your furnace (or cold air from your air conditioner).<\/p>","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"582f","elType":"widget","settings":{"image":{"url":"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Heating_Pic1.png","id":2076},"image_size":"custom","align":"center","image_custom_dimension":{"width":"700","height":""},"caption":"It\u2019s important to peel back the insulation and vapor jacket to seal the duct connections. The black stains are from the air leaks."},"elements":[],"widgetType":"image"},{"id":"4896792","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"Return ducts can be a bigger challenge. Return systems are frequently patched together using a combination of plywood, sheet metal, joist or wall cavities, and a lot of wishful thinking. Many HVAC installers don\u2019t pay much attention to returns, focusing mostly on supplies that get the air to where it\u2019s supposed to go. But well-sealed returns are important for furnace efficiency, occupant health and safety, and building durability. Fortunately, it\u2019s not typically necessary to seal ducts that are buried inside interior wall and floor cavities. However, you do want to ensure that those cavities don\u2019t leak to outside spaces; if they do, seal those leaks at the thermal boundary to keep the ducts and the indoor air inside.","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"cab","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Duct insulation","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"7ee","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"<p>Ductwork that runs through unconditioned space should be insulated, if it is not already. Typically, supply ducts are insulated but often have weak spots at register boots and other major connections. Often, return ductwork is left uninsulated.<\/p><p>Ducts should be insulated with vinyl-faced fiberglass wrap; R-6 is the minimum allowed by current residential codes; R-8 is required for supply ducts in attics. If possible, attic ducts should have higher R-values. Think about it: In winter, attic temperatures are nearly as cold as outdoors; in summer (for air-conditioning ducts), they are often much hotter than outdoors. If the ducts are close to the attic floor, cover them completely with loose-fill insulation. If that is not possible, try to find R-10 or higher duct wrap. Of course, seal all the duct connections tightly before insulating.<\/p>","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"6e76","elType":"widget","settings":[],"elements":[],"widgetType":"spacer"}],"isInner":false}],"isInner":false},{"id":"6100","elType":"section","settings":[],"elements":[{"id":"686f","elType":"column","settings":{"_column_size":100,"_inline_size":null},"elements":[{"id":"474f","elType":"widget","settings":{"color":"#7a7a7a"},"elements":[],"widgetType":"divider"},{"id":"7f67","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Furnaces","header_size":"h1","title_color":"#217094","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":24},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":34},"_element_id":"anchor03"},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"6380","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"The furnace is by far the most common type of heating system in the country. In fact, it\u2019s so common that many people use the word furnace to describe any type of heating equipment. Furnaces create heat by burning fuel, usually natural gas. Oil and liquefied petroleum (LP, or propane) gas are also used in areas where piped gas is unavailable. By contrast, heat pumps and electric furnaces use electricity to heat the air; they also use a duct system to deliver heat, but they are not furnaces and do not have a fuel supply, chimney, or vent pipe. Boilers burn gas or oil but create hot water or steam instead of warm air. Furnace efficiency can be improved by performing regular maintenance, improving airflow, adjusting control settings, and sealing leaky ductwork.","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"a91f30b","elType":"widget","settings":{"image":{"url":"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Heating_Pic2.jpg","id":2077},"image_size":"custom","align":"center","image_custom_dimension":{"width":"700","height":""}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"image"},{"id":"3182","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Regular maintenance","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"3a47","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"<p>Regular furnace maintenance is important to keep things running well, just as with any machine, but tune-ups and filter replacements don\u2019t really save energy. Be sure to change the filter once or twice a year; more frequently is not much benefit because filters actually work better once some dust has built up on them. If the filter never gets dirty, however, then you may have a duct leak that is causing a loss of efficiency. Keeping registers open and free of obstructions may help your comfort, but this also won\u2019t affect your energy bills noticeably.<\/p><p>\u00a0<\/p><p>If you have a gas furnace, you should have it cleaned and tuned every two to four years. An oil burner should be tuned every year. Don\u2019t wait until cold weather hits\u2014that\u2019s when the service companies are busy. You may get a better price if you get the tune-up in the spring.<\/p>","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"628b","elType":"widget","settings":{"image":{"url":"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Heating_Pic3.png","id":2078},"image_size":"custom","align":"center","image_custom_dimension":{"width":"700","height":""},"caption":"Air filters should be replaced occasionally for best furnace performance. This pleated filter is more effective than the standard cheap fiberglass filter, and it doesn\u2019t cost much more."},"elements":[],"widgetType":"image"},{"id":"1138","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Low airflow","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"135","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"<p>Low airflow can also reduce furnace efficiency. It can be caused by clogged air-conditioning coils, low fan speed settings, loose fan drive belts, undersized ductwork, or duct obstructions. Sometimes airflow is low to one room or section of the house, causing discomfort. Diagnosing low airflow is complex, but once identified, the fixes are usually fairly easy and inexpensive. These improvements are probably better left to a professional, but it\u2019s good to be informed, because many technicians don\u2019t bother checking airflow. If a service person is unable to explain in sensible terms what is happening in your system, you may want to get an opinion from another technician.<\/p>","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"25e6","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Furnace Tune-Up","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"5fc9","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"A professional tune-up for a gas furnace includes cleaning the burner and heat exchanger, checking the adjustment of air and fuel flow, cleaning and checking the heat exchanger for leaks, and testing draft pressure and carbon monoxide levels. The air-handler fan should be cleaned and lubricated as needed, once every two or three tune-ups. In addition, internal controls may be checked and adjusted if necessary. Don\u2019t expect any real energy savings from a gas furnace tune-up; every two to four years is often enough. Oil burners are more finicky than gas burners. Most oil furnaces benefit from annual professional service; fuel filters, burner nozzles, electrodes, combustion chamber, heat exchanger, and flue pipe all need regular cleaning and adjustment. Checking heat exchangers and testing combustion efficiency are also useful. Try to find a technician who is knowledgeable, methodical, and thorough. If you have an oil furnace, the service technician might also recommend installing a smaller oil nozzle. This can reduce the heat output of the furnace, better matching it to the house and increasing operating efficiency slightly.","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"9578043","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Furnace control settings","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"9ea347a","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"<p>The furnace controls can also have an impact on efficiency. The blower control, located above the heat exchanger, turns on the blower when it senses heat from the burner. The fan-on temperature should be set so the blower comes on between 90\u00b0F and 105\u00b0F; if it\u2019s set too high, the burner will fire for a long time before the fan comes on, letting excess heat go up the chimney. If it\u2019s set too low, the circulating air may feel uncomfortably cool.<\/p><p>\u00a0<\/p><p>The fan-off temperature must be slightly lower than the fan-on temperature: between 85\u00b0F and 100\u00b0F. The lower it is set, the longer the fan will run at the end of the cycle when the thermostat turns off the burners, moving residual heat from the heat exchanger to your house. If your fan-on and fan-off temperatures are fixed (rather than adjustable) and set too high, the control can be replaced. Note that the temperature markings on adjustable controls are often poorly calibrated. Verify the actual fan-on and fan-off temperatures with a thermometer in the supply plenum.<\/p>","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"5fdc","elType":"widget","settings":[],"elements":[],"widgetType":"spacer"}],"isInner":false}],"isInner":false},{"id":"2ddf","elType":"section","settings":[],"elements":[{"id":"20d1","elType":"column","settings":{"_column_size":100,"_inline_size":null},"elements":[{"id":"7e09","elType":"widget","settings":{"color":"#7a7a7a","gap_tablet":{"unit":"px","size":40}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"divider"},{"id":"6857","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Heat Pumps","header_size":"h1","title_color":"#217094","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":24},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":34},"_element_id":"anchor04"},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"2ae9","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"Air-source heat pumps, popular in some parts of the country, are basically air conditioners that can work in reverse to deliver heat into the house in winter. Heat pumps provide heating and cooling in one machine, with one duct system and no combustion. Heat pumps are not subject to backdrafting, combustion air requirements, or some of the offcycle losses to which furnaces are prone. Because they use ducts to deliver warm air to the house, heat pump ducts in attics, garages, and crawlspaces must be sealed thoroughly and insulated well. Heat pumps are more prone to airflow problems than furnaces are, and improper refrigerant charging can have a negative impact on both heating and cooling efficiency. ","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"17ee","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Operating efficiency and resistance heating","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"4720","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"Heat pumps are rated using Heating System Performance Factor, or HSPF. An HSPF of 6.8 corresponds to an efficiency of 200 percent. Most new heat pumps vary from 7.3 to about 10 HSPF; the larger the number, the more efficient the unit. An HSPF of 10 is approximately equal to 290-percent efficient\u2014for every kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity you buy, you get almost 3 kWh of heat delivered to your house. How can a heat pump generate more energy than it consumes? The difference is made up by heat energy absorbed from the outdoor air. That energy goes into the system; because it\u2019s free, it\u2019s not counted in the measurement of efficiency. Most heat pumps, by themselves, operate at reasonable efficiencies until outside air temperatures drop to about 35\u00b0F to 40\u00b0F. As the outdoor air gets colder, less heat is available, and the heat pump output drops off, even as the house needs more heat. So cold-weather performance is typically supplemented with electric-resistance backup heaters. This auxiliary heat costs about three times more per unit of heat than the compressor heating cycle. That may be fine in regions with long summers, mild winters, and relatively low electric rates, but it\u2019s not in much of the North, where electricity is expensive and winters are cold. One fairly inexpensive way to reduce the use of electric-resistance heating is to install an outdoor cutout thermostat. For about $100 to $150 installed, this device locks out the supplemental electric heat when the outdoor air temperature is above 30\u00b0F or 35\u00b0F.","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"5977","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Airflow","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"7a9c","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"Heat pumps are even more sensitive to airflow than furnaces are. Heat pumps need to move a larger volume of air, but installers who are used to working with furnaces sometimes skimp on duct sizing, leading to low-airflow problems. Unfortunately, checking the airflow of a heat pump is not as easy as checking that of a furnace. It can be done with special instruments or with a version of the temperature-rise method used with the electric-resistance backup heat. Don\u2019t attempt to take these measurements unless you understand exactly what you are doing\u2014if you aren\u2019t sure, get a service technician to do it for you. For best efficiency, heat pump airflow should be 375 CFM to 425 CFM per ton of heating capacity. It should never be below 300 CFM per ton. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour, and equipment is typically rated in increments of 1\u20442 ton, such as \u201c24\u201d (\u00d71,000 Btu, or 2 tons), \u201c30\u201d (21\u20442 tons), \u201c36\u201d (3 tons), etc.","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"a563a01","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Refrigerant charge","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"1d32d86","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"Older heat pumps are also finicky about refrigerant charge. Many heat pumps, even when serviced regularly, are either over- or undercharged, which has a negative impact on efficiency. Unfortunately, many service technicians don\u2019t take the time to diagnose or correct those problems; they typically get the system working and move on to the next service call. To measure charge correctly, airflow must be in the recommended range, and few technicians test airflow as a matter of course. There are very specific ways to measure refrigerant charge during unit operation. Depending on the type of unit, the superheat or subcooling must be measured carefully, as it is for an air conditioner. There are also several automated systems on the market today that trained technicians can use to analyze heat pump operation. Newer high-efficiency models should also be properly charged, but they are more forgiving of varying charge conditions and their efficiency doesn\u2019t suffer as much.","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"10b1fd1","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Heat pump service","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"e514960","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"Like furnaces, heat pumps should be serviced regularly. Basic service can be done by anyone. Air filters should be replaced once or twice a year, as needed, and the outdoor coil should be kept free of snow and debris. Regular service calls\u2014 typically every two to three years\u2014should include testing the controls, cleaning the blower and both the indoor and the outdoor coils as needed, and checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines. To service your heat pump, try to find a contractor whose technicians are certified by North American Technician Excellence (NATE, see www.hvacradvice.com), or who demonstrates a commitment to attending manufacturers\u2019 programs frequently. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing airflow problems, then carefully measuring and correcting refrigerant charge. Once that has been done, service technicians generally should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless the system performance drops off or there is other evidence that something is wrong. Refrigerant does not escape unless there is a leak.","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"de2ded1","elType":"widget","settings":{"image":{"url":"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Heating_Pic4.png","id":2079},"image_size":"custom","align":"center","image_custom_dimension":{"width":"350","height":""}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"image"},{"id":"26e4","elType":"widget","settings":{"image":{"url":"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Heatin_Pic5.png","id":2080},"image_size":"custom","align":"center","image_custom_dimension":{"width":"350","height":""}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"image"},{"id":"06769f8","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Ductless Heat Pumps","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"5e85b4a","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"Ductless heat pumps, often called minisplit heat pumps, are available in higher heating (and cooling) efficiencies than just about any other heat pumps on the market. The most efficient ones use an inverter-driven compressor, and variable speed fans that run continuously at a low speed to match the load in the house and minimize noise. One outdoor unit may be used with one or more indoor units that deliver heat and cooling to the house. Each indoor unit connects to the outdoor unit with a small bundle of pipes and wires that carry refrigerant and electricity, so there are no duct losses. Some models are designed for cold climate operation and maintain a high heating capacity and decent efficiency near 0\u00b0F. A single mini-split makes a great heating and cooling system for a single-room addition or a deep energy remodel, or to offset electric resistance, oil, or LP gas heat.","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"74415b8","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Ground-source heat pumps","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"b12d517","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"Ground-source heat pumps (or GSHPs; often called geothermal heat pumps) extract heat from the earth or from underground water, rather than from outdoor air. Because temperatures are more stable underground, GSHP systems theoretically have much higher heating efficiencies than air-source heat pumps; rated Coefficient of Performance (COPs) range from about 3 to 5 (300 percent to 500 percent). There are two basic types of GSHP systems. Closed-loop (ground-loop) systems are usually more efficient but can be more expensive to install. Open-loop (groundwater or water source) systems usually cost less to install but can cost more to run, due to the power consumption of a large well pump that\u2019s often required for these systems. A third type of GSHP, called direct exchange (DX), uses a copper pipe ground loop to circulate refrigerant underground. Their long-term reliability is less clear than that of closed loop water-based systems. Like air-source heat pumps, ground-source heat pumps can be cost-effective in regions with mild or hot climates and moderate electric rates, especially in areas where installation costs are modest. However, in regions with cold climates and high electric rates, they generally do not provide enough savings to justify the high installation cost. Ground-source heat pumps can also have very high cooling efficiencies. The heating capacity of GSHPs is much better in cold weather than that of conventional air-source heat pumps, so there is typically little or no need for supplemental electric heat. Closed-loop systems need little or no maintenance, but open-loop systems may have water-quality issues, filters that need replacing, and well pumps with shortened life expectancies.","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"ad52eba","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Ground-Source Heat Pump Efficiency","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"ccb4742","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"Efficiency ratings for GSHPs come in three flavors: water loop, ground loop, and ground water. \u201cWater loop\u201d is used for commercial systems; \u201cground loop\u201d is used for closed loops; and \u201cground water\u201d for open loops. All of them rate the heating efficiency using a Coefficient of Performance, which is the ratio of heat out to electricity in: A COP of 3 represents a heating efficiency of 300 percent. There\u2019s a trick to the GSHP performance ratings: You can\u2019t achieve them in a real installation. The rating applies only to \u201cthe box\u201d itself and does not include most of the energy required to pump water or move air through the system. Depending on the installation, this can increase real operating costs between 20 percent and 100 percent (bringing a rated COP of 5 down to somewhere between 4 and 2.5). Despite marketing claims that GSHPs are \u201crenewable\u201d and \u201cgreen,\u201d they still run on electricity. Because electric generation and power lines are inefficient, a GSHP may actually be more expensive to run and generate more emissions than a high-efficiency natural gas furnace and AC system. GSHPs are, however, typically cheaper and cleaner than oil or LP gas heat. They are also quite expensive to install; my preference is to invest in a more efficient building enclosure.","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"6a56","elType":"widget","settings":[],"elements":[],"widgetType":"spacer"}],"isInner":false}],"isInner":false},{"id":"dbf320a","elType":"section","settings":[],"elements":[{"id":"9d22846","elType":"column","settings":{"_column_size":100,"_inline_size":null},"elements":[{"id":"e535b22","elType":"widget","settings":{"color":"#7a7a7a","gap_tablet":{"unit":"px","size":40}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"divider"},{"id":"871c427","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Electric-Resistance Heat","header_size":"h1","title_color":"#217094","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":24},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":34},"_element_id":"anchor05"},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"b3e88de","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"Most electric-resistance heating systems are simple electric baseboard heaters. There are also various types of radiant-heat systems (usually panels mounted on ceiling or walls, built into valances, or built into ceiling or wall-finish systems). Cheap to install but expensive to operate, electric-resistance heat operates on the same principle as that of a toaster or hot plate. An electric current passes through a wire element, heating it. Air passes through and is heated by fins in the baseboard. Electric-resistance heat is always 100-percent efficient; every kilowatt-hour of electricity that you pay for is converted to heat. The reason electric baseboards are expensive to operate is that electricity costs two to four times as much as natural gas. One advantage of electric heat is the ease with which rooms can be zoned. But with the high fuel cost and hidden emissions, it\u2019s difficult to justify except in special situations, such as isolated rooms, or extremely mild climates like southern Florida or Hawaii. Because these systems are so simple, there is very little that can be done to improve their efficiency. Short of supplementing or completely replacing them, the best approach (as always) is to insulate and thoroughly seal the building to reduce heating loads.","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"25bca46","elType":"widget","settings":{"image":{"url":"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Heating_Pic6.png","id":2085},"image_size":"custom","align":"center","image_custom_dimension":{"width":"350","height":""},"caption":"An electric baseboard heater is its own distribution system and is usually precisely in the area where heat is desired, so there are no distribution losses like those found in ductwork."},"elements":[],"widgetType":"image"},{"id":"16865fd","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Supplementing Electric Heat","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"3574f96","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"<p>A great way to reduce the cost of electric, LP or oil heat for a reasonable cost is with the installation of a variable speed ductless heat pump. The best systems are rated with an HSPF of 10 to 12, which means they use 65 percent to 70 percent less electricity per unit of delivered heat. Installing a single mini-split to heat a main living area can save 30 percent to 50 percent of a home\u2019s heating bill (leaving the existing heat for remote rooms in cold weather), at an installed cost of $3,000 to $4,000. Ductless heat pumps also provide air-conditioning much more efficiently than do window units.<\/p>","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"a34b211","elType":"widget","settings":[],"elements":[],"widgetType":"spacer"}],"isInner":false}],"isInner":false},{"id":"7c98","elType":"section","settings":[],"elements":[{"id":"1456","elType":"column","settings":{"_column_size":100,"_inline_size":null},"elements":[{"id":"1c64","elType":"widget","settings":{"color":"#7a7a7a"},"elements":[],"widgetType":"divider"},{"id":"5a38","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Hot-Water and Steam Boilers","header_size":"h1","title_color":"#217094","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":24},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":34},"_element_id":"anchor06"},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"654a","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"Boilers, an old standby in the Northeast, are becoming more popular around the country with the advent of radiant, hydro-air, and hybrid systems. Instead of heating air, a boiler heats water. The classic boiler system uses hydronic distribution. Water is heated by the boiler and pumped through pipes to hot-water radiators or baseboard fin-tube convectors to heat the house. Some older systems use a boiler to make steam, which expands to fill steam radiators without the need for a circulator pump. ","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"10abfe8","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Basic maintenance","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"387842d","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"Boiler maintenance is similar to that of a gas or oil furnace, but there is no blower fan to clean. Oil boilers should be serviced once a year, whereas gas boilers should be serviced every two to four years. Any swishing or gurgling sounds that you hear in the radiators indicate air trapped in the system, which reduces heat-exchange efficiency. A service technician can bleed out the air and show you how to do it if it is needed frequently. Occasionally, bleed valves may need to be installed or replaced. The technician should check the hydronic system pressure and expansion tank; the smallest leak anywhere in the system should be repaired immediately to prevent corrosion-causing oxygen from being brought in via makeup water connections.","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"a3b52bd","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Boiler controls and upgrades","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"8d5ab32","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"A typical hot-water boiler operates throughout the winter with a water temperature determined by the low-limit setting, a thermostatic switch that senses the water temperature inside the boiler and shuts off the burner when the water is hot enough. Standard boiler controls maintain full boiler temperature throughout the year, which is inefficient but necessary if a tankless coil water heater heats the domestic hot water. In the absence of a tankless coil, efficient boiler controls have a \u201ccold start\u201d feature that heats the boiler water only when it\u2019s needed, and a \u201cpurge\u201d control that runs the circulating pump for a few minutes after the boiler shuts off, to extract any heat that remains inside. These controls, often standard or optional on new, high-efficiency models, can also be retrofitted to existing boilers\u2014but you have to be careful. Cold-start boilers must be protected from condensing on start-up, which may take some extra piping and a thermic valve (made by DanfossR or Termovar) to maintain adequate return-water temperature. Many newer boilers designed for cold starting have this protection built in.\n\nAnother improvement for older boilers that don\u2019t have good controls is a mechanical vent damper. This device closes off the flue pipe after the burner shuts off, stopping the flow of heat through the heat exchanger and up the chimney. It costs $125 to $350 installed. Don\u2019t use a gravity-actuated vent damper that depends on the heat from the burner to stay open; they are much more likely to malfunction.\n","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"c6c041c","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Steam boilers","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"14ff0fc","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"Steam boilers are very different from hot water boilers. Steam systems were popular in the early 20th century, and many of them are still in service in older homes. Instead of relying on pumps to circulate hot water, steam boilers boil water to create steam. The steam naturally expands to fill all the pipes and radiators in the system, distributing heat throughout the house. Although steam-heat distribution is simple and reliable, steam boilers have a number of unique maintenance and efficiency issues. Most residential steam systems are one-pipe systems. When the thermostat calls for heat, the boiler fires and steam begins expanding to fill the system. As the steam expands, it displaces air contained in the pipes and radiators, and that air must be allowed to escape through air vents typically located on the side of each radiator. Once the steam reaches the radiator, the air vent senses the heat and closes, keeping the steam inside. As the steam emits heat through the radiator, it condenses to water and flows back via gravity through the same pipes to the boiler.\n\nAir-venting systems that aren\u2019t working properly can lead to uneven heating, large temperature fluctuations, and discomfort. A tune-up can increase energy efficiency and comfort dramatically. If the air vents are too small, if there are not enough of them, or if they are clogged with mineral deposits, air gets trapped in the system, and the steam cannot reach its destination. Having a professional replace malfunctioning air vents, add extra vents to radiators, or add special high-volume air vents to large central supply pipes can improve steam-system efficiency by quickly getting the heat where it is needed. Thermostatically controlled vents can reduce the rate of steam delivery to some rooms, reducing overheating and improving overall comfort.\n\nA common problem with steam systems is too much pressure. The boiler pressure controls should be set just high enough so that the boiler shuts down just as each radiator fills with steam. Too much steam pressure increases the boiler\u2019s cycling losses and leads to overheating. That can particularly be a problem if the building envelope\u2019s efficiency is improved dramatically and\/or some radiators are removed during remodeling. Timed-cycle controllers vary the boiler cycle length to match the outdoor temperature, further improving the system\u2019s efficiency.\n","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"705f6bb","elType":"widget","settings":[],"elements":[],"widgetType":"spacer"}],"isInner":false}],"isInner":false},{"id":"a5d58e6","elType":"section","settings":[],"elements":[{"id":"962cc36","elType":"column","settings":{"_column_size":100,"_inline_size":null},"elements":[{"id":"4f84b4b","elType":"widget","settings":{"color":"#7a7a7a"},"elements":[],"widgetType":"divider"},{"id":"b626660","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment","header_size":"h1","title_color":"#217094","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":24},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":34},"_element_id":"anchor07"},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"cade1ab","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"Replacing a heating system with a newer, more efficient system is expensive, so it will typically have a long payback. However, if you have to replace a broken furnace or boiler, it is almost always cost-effective to select a high-efficiency system. However efficient (or inefficient) a house shell is, replacing a furnace from the mid-1980s or earlier with a 95-percent-efficient unit will save between 20 percent and 25 percent of the heating bill. Replacing an old boiler can save even more. On the other hand, if you have a 15-year-old unit that\u2019s rated between 80-percent and 85-percent efficient, the savings will be much smaller. It\u2019s probably better to spend your money on other efficiency projects. Finally, if you are planning a series of efficiency improvements to the house, it can be a good idea to complete them before upgrading equipment\u2014you may be able to save some money by installing a smaller unit. If your existing heating system is functional but appears to be on its last legs, replacing it early can help avoid a big surprise. Deciding, rather than being forced, to replace a system reduces the panic factor and allows for a more reasoned choice. It may even reduce the cost a bit, because it won\u2019t be an emergency call.","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"7861759","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Efficiency ratings","header_size":"p","title_color":"#333333","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":18},"typography_font_weight":"600","typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":28}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"heading"},{"id":"9f83449","elType":"widget","settings":{"editor":"<p>All new boilers and furnaces have standardized efficiency ratings, just like the gas-mileage ratings on automobiles. When selecting equipment, look for the highest efficiency ratings. Furnaces and boilers use Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE), which accounts for burner efficiency, pilot fuel, and off-cycle losses. New gas furnaces and boilers have AFUEs of 80 per-cent to 97 percent. AFUE ratings are available from manufacturers or at <a href=\"http:\/\/www.ahridirectory.org\">www.ahridirectory.org<\/a>. Air-source heat pumps are rated using HSPF; GSHPs are rated using COP. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and Department of Energy (DOE) maintain a listing of high-efficiency equipment on their Energy Star website (<a href=\"http:\/\/www.energystar.gov\/\">www.energystar.gov\/<\/a> products); always look for the Energy Star label, which indicates that the equipment meets certain above-minimum efficiency standards set by the government. Remember that the ratings apply to only the equipment. Installation problems, improper maintenance, and distribution problems (such as duct leakage) can reduce performance dramatically. Also remember that there are many products that exceed the Energy Star minimum standards; it\u2019s still worth shopping for the highest-efficiency unit you can find.<\/p>","typography_typography":"custom","typography_font_size":{"unit":"px","size":16},"typography_font_size_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":14},"typography_line_height":{"unit":"px","size":26},"typography_line_height_mobile":{"unit":"px","size":24}},"elements":[],"widgetType":"text-editor"},{"id":"432bc52","elType":"widget","settings":{"image":{"url":"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Heating_Pic7.png","id":2089},"image_size":"custom","align":"center","image_custom_dimension":{"width":"350","height":""},"caption":"The yellow Energy Guide label indicates the efficiency rating of new equipment and provides a comparison among similar models."},"elements":[],"widgetType":"image"}],"isInner":false}],"isInner":false},{"id":"555a","elType":"section","settings":[],"elements":[{"id":"238a","elType":"column","settings":{"_column_size":100},"elements":[{"id":"7114","elType":"widget","settings":[],"elements":[],"widgetType":"spacer"}],"isInner":false}],"isInner":false},{"id":"4a5e","elType":"section","settings":{"structure":"30","background_background":"classic","background_color":"#333333","background_color_b":"#333333","margin":{"unit":"px","top":"","right":0,"bottom":"","left":0,"isLinked":true},"padding":{"unit":"px","top":"30","right":"30","bottom":"30","left":"30","isLinked":true}},"elements":[{"id":"7de3","elType":"column","settings":{"_column_size":33,"_inline_size":40,"_inline_size_tablet":45,"space_between_widgets":10},"elements":[{"id":"3981","elType":"widget","settings":{"title":"Energy New 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