(2082,4,'2018-07-24 14:18:44','2018-07-24 14:18:44','<h2><p>Heating and Cooling Systems</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Efficiency Losses in a Heating System</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Duct Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Furnaces</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Heat Pumps</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Electric-Resistance Heat</a>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Hot-Water and Steam Boilers</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment</a></p>		\n			<h1>Efficiency Losses in a Heating System</h1>		\n		Not all the energy in the fuel you buy contributes to heating your house. Your heating system’s efficiency is the amount of useful heat you get as a percentage of purchased energy. Anything less than 100 percent represents waste, or lost efficiency. There are three kinds of heating system losses: combustion loss, cycling loss, and distribution loss. Combustion loss is simply the heat that goes up the chimney; it varies from about 30 percent to as little as 3 percent. That leaves a combustion efficiency between 70 percent and 97 percent; that is, the percentage of the fuel you buy that is converted to heat in the equipment. Combustion efficiency is mostly affected by equipment design; unless the burners are badly out of tune, it can’t be improved much unless you buy a new unit.\n Cycling losses occur when the heating equipment starts and stops. Each time the unit shuts off, some heat remains inside; some of that heat goes up the chimney. Cycling losses are affected by the equipment design, location, and controls; some efficiency improvements can be made if the controls are set poorly to begin with. Distribution losses occur when heat generated in the equipment gets out of the house before it reaches its destination. Distribution losses include duct air leaks and conductive losses through uninsulated ducts or pipes. Distribution losses can be significant: 5 percent to 30 percent, so in many homes a large improvement can be made.\n			<p>Comfort and energy use</p>		\n		Another fairly simple factor that affects heating-system performance is system balancing. Balancing refers to the temperature consistency from one room to the next. If one or more rooms are consistently too cold, people tend to set the thermostat high enough to be comfortable in those rooms. The rest of the house then overheats, using more energy. Balancing problems can be caused by thermal defects in the building, by problems in the distribution system, or by the thermostat location. Rooms that have air leaks, drafts, or missing insulation may lose heat faster than neighboring rooms, or they may just be uncomfortable. Thermal problems should be fixed before addressing the heating system. Once the building enclosure is properly treated, the distribution system can usually be adjusted for better balance.		\n			<h1>Duct-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Air leaks in a duct system can have an enormous effect on your house. Duct leaks rob a furnace, heat pump, or central air system of energy— sometimes close to half. Leaks can cause comfort problems, drive moisture flows, and sometimes even lead to dangerous back drafting of combustion equipment. Leaky basement ducts don’t usually waste much energy; sealing them is pretty easy, but there’s not much value to it. But ducts located in attics, garages, or vented crawlspaces can be a big energy problem. Sealing them can be the biggest opportunity for energy savings in many homes. Leaky ducts do more than let heat out. They also increase the air exchange in a house by 30 percent to 300 percent whenever the air handler is running. That is why furnaces have the reputation for drying out houses. Return leaks in a mechanical room or basement can backdraft a nearby water heater or even the furnace itself. Return leaks can also draw in radon gas, water vapor, subsoil pesticides, or airborne mold spores, distributing them throughout the house.</p><p>Supply air leaking into an attic or enclosed cathedral ceiling cavity can deliver moisture at an accelerated rate to cold roof sheathing, causing condensation. If the ducts also carry central air-conditioning, return leaks can bring in outdoor humidity in the summer, reducing cooling efficiency, and leaks can draw outside air into building cavities, where moisture can lead to mold inside the house. Duct leaks are even more important than shell air leaks: Each hole and crack is under pressure from the furnace fan and leaks the hot air from your furnace (or cold air from your air conditioner).</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic1.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic1\" alt=\"Heating_Pic1\" />											<figcaption>It’s important to peel back the insulation and vapor jacket to seal the duct connections. The black stains are from the air leaks.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n		Return ducts can be a bigger challenge. Return systems are frequently patched together using a combination of plywood, sheet metal, joist or wall cavities, and a lot of wishful thinking. Many HVAC installers don’t pay much attention to returns, focusing mostly on supplies that get the air to where it’s supposed to go. But well-sealed returns are important for furnace efficiency, occupant health and safety, and building durability. Fortunately, it’s not typically necessary to seal ducts that are buried inside interior wall and floor cavities. However, you do want to ensure that those cavities don’t leak to outside spaces; if they do, seal those leaks at the thermal boundary to keep the ducts and the indoor air inside.		\n			<p>Duct insulation</p>		\n		<p>Ductwork that runs through unconditioned space should be insulated, if it is not already. Typically, supply ducts are insulated but often have weak spots at register boots and other major connections. Often, return ductwork is left uninsulated.</p><p>Ducts should be insulated with vinyl-faced fiberglass wrap; R-6 is the minimum allowed by current residential codes; R-8 is required for supply ducts in attics. If possible, attic ducts should have higher R-values. Think about it: In winter, attic temperatures are nearly as cold as outdoors; in summer (for air-conditioning ducts), they are often much hotter than outdoors. If the ducts are close to the attic floor, cover them completely with loose-fill insulation. If that is not possible, try to find R-10 or higher duct wrap. Of course, seal all the duct connections tightly before insulating.</p>		\n			<h1>Furnaces</h1>		\n		The furnace is by far the most common type of heating system in the country. In fact, it’s so common that many people use the word furnace to describe any type of heating equipment. Furnaces create heat by burning fuel, usually natural gas. Oil and liquefied petroleum (LP, or propane) gas are also used in areas where piped gas is unavailable. By contrast, heat pumps and electric furnaces use electricity to heat the air; they also use a duct system to deliver heat, but they are not furnaces and do not have a fuel supply, chimney, or vent pipe. Boilers burn gas or oil but create hot water or steam instead of warm air. Furnace efficiency can be improved by performing regular maintenance, improving airflow, adjusting control settings, and sealing leaky ductwork.		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic2.jpg\" title=\"Heating_Pic2\" alt=\"Heating_Pic2\" />											\n			<p>Regular maintenance</p>		\n		<p>Regular furnace maintenance is important to keep things running well, just as with any machine, but tune-ups and filter replacements don’t really save energy. Be sure to change the filter once or twice a year; more frequently is not much benefit because filters actually work better once some dust has built up on them. If the filter never gets dirty, however, then you may have a duct leak that is causing a loss of efficiency. Keeping registers open and free of obstructions may help your comfort, but this also won’t affect your energy bills noticeably.</p><p> </p><p>If you have a gas furnace, you should have it cleaned and tuned every two to four years. An oil burner should be tuned every year. Don’t wait until cold weather hits—that’s when the service companies are busy. You may get a better price if you get the tune-up in the spring.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic3.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic3\" alt=\"Heating_Pic3\" />											<figcaption>Air filters should be replaced occasionally for best furnace performance. This pleated filter is more effective than the standard cheap fiberglass filter, and it doesn’t cost much more.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Low airflow</p>		\n		<p>Low airflow can also reduce furnace efficiency. It can be caused by clogged air-conditioning coils, low fan speed settings, loose fan drive belts, undersized ductwork, or duct obstructions. Sometimes airflow is low to one room or section of the house, causing discomfort. Diagnosing low airflow is complex, but once identified, the fixes are usually fairly easy and inexpensive. These improvements are probably better left to a professional, but it’s good to be informed, because many technicians don’t bother checking airflow. If a service person is unable to explain in sensible terms what is happening in your system, you may want to get an opinion from another technician.</p>		\n			<p>Furnace Tune-Up</p>		\n		A professional tune-up for a gas furnace includes cleaning the burner and heat exchanger, checking the adjustment of air and fuel flow, cleaning and checking the heat exchanger for leaks, and testing draft pressure and carbon monoxide levels. The air-handler fan should be cleaned and lubricated as needed, once every two or three tune-ups. In addition, internal controls may be checked and adjusted if necessary. Don’t expect any real energy savings from a gas furnace tune-up; every two to four years is often enough. Oil burners are more finicky than gas burners. Most oil furnaces benefit from annual professional service; fuel filters, burner nozzles, electrodes, combustion chamber, heat exchanger, and flue pipe all need regular cleaning and adjustment. Checking heat exchangers and testing combustion efficiency are also useful. Try to find a technician who is knowledgeable, methodical, and thorough. If you have an oil furnace, the service technician might also recommend installing a smaller oil nozzle. This can reduce the heat output of the furnace, better matching it to the house and increasing operating efficiency slightly.		\n			<p>Furnace control settings</p>		\n		<p>The furnace controls can also have an impact on efficiency. The blower control, located above the heat exchanger, turns on the blower when it senses heat from the burner. The fan-on temperature should be set so the blower comes on between 90°F and 105°F; if it’s set too high, the burner will fire for a long time before the fan comes on, letting excess heat go up the chimney. If it’s set too low, the circulating air may feel uncomfortably cool.</p><p> </p><p>The fan-off temperature must be slightly lower than the fan-on temperature: between 85°F and 100°F. The lower it is set, the longer the fan will run at the end of the cycle when the thermostat turns off the burners, moving residual heat from the heat exchanger to your house. If your fan-on and fan-off temperatures are fixed (rather than adjustable) and set too high, the control can be replaced. Note that the temperature markings on adjustable controls are often poorly calibrated. Verify the actual fan-on and fan-off temperatures with a thermometer in the supply plenum.</p>		\n			<h1>Heat Pumps</h1>		\n		Air-source heat pumps, popular in some parts of the country, are basically air conditioners that can work in reverse to deliver heat into the house in winter. Heat pumps provide heating and cooling in one machine, with one duct system and no combustion. Heat pumps are not subject to backdrafting, combustion air requirements, or some of the offcycle losses to which furnaces are prone. Because they use ducts to deliver warm air to the house, heat pump ducts in attics, garages, and crawlspaces must be sealed thoroughly and insulated well. Heat pumps are more prone to airflow problems than furnaces are, and improper refrigerant charging can have a negative impact on both heating and cooling efficiency. 		\n			<p>Operating efficiency and resistance heating</p>		\n		Heat pumps are rated using Heating System Performance Factor, or HSPF. An HSPF of 6.8 corresponds to an efficiency of 200 percent. Most new heat pumps vary from 7.3 to about 10 HSPF; the larger the number, the more efficient the unit. An HSPF of 10 is approximately equal to 290-percent efficient—for every kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity you buy, you get almost 3 kWh of heat delivered to your house. How can a heat pump generate more energy than it consumes? The difference is made up by heat energy absorbed from the outdoor air. That energy goes into the system; because it’s free, it’s not counted in the measurement of efficiency. Most heat pumps, by themselves, operate at reasonable efficiencies until outside air temperatures drop to about 35°F to 40°F. As the outdoor air gets colder, less heat is available, and the heat pump output drops off, even as the house needs more heat. So cold-weather performance is typically supplemented with electric-resistance backup heaters. This auxiliary heat costs about three times more per unit of heat than the compressor heating cycle. That may be fine in regions with long summers, mild winters, and relatively low electric rates, but it’s not in much of the North, where electricity is expensive and winters are cold. One fairly inexpensive way to reduce the use of electric-resistance heating is to install an outdoor cutout thermostat. For about $100 to $150 installed, this device locks out the supplemental electric heat when the outdoor air temperature is above 30°F or 35°F.		\n			<p>Airflow</p>		\n		Heat pumps are even more sensitive to airflow than furnaces are. Heat pumps need to move a larger volume of air, but installers who are used to working with furnaces sometimes skimp on duct sizing, leading to low-airflow problems. Unfortunately, checking the airflow of a heat pump is not as easy as checking that of a furnace. It can be done with special instruments or with a version of the temperature-rise method used with the electric-resistance backup heat. Don’t attempt to take these measurements unless you understand exactly what you are doing—if you aren’t sure, get a service technician to do it for you. For best efficiency, heat pump airflow should be 375 CFM to 425 CFM per ton of heating capacity. It should never be below 300 CFM per ton. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour, and equipment is typically rated in increments of 1⁄2 ton, such as “24” (×1,000 Btu, or 2 tons), “30” (21⁄2 tons), “36” (3 tons), etc.		\n			<p>Refrigerant charge</p>		\n		Older heat pumps are also finicky about refrigerant charge. Many heat pumps, even when serviced regularly, are either over- or undercharged, which has a negative impact on efficiency. Unfortunately, many service technicians don’t take the time to diagnose or correct those problems; they typically get the system working and move on to the next service call. To measure charge correctly, airflow must be in the recommended range, and few technicians test airflow as a matter of course. There are very specific ways to measure refrigerant charge during unit operation. Depending on the type of unit, the superheat or subcooling must be measured carefully, as it is for an air conditioner. There are also several automated systems on the market today that trained technicians can use to analyze heat pump operation. Newer high-efficiency models should also be properly charged, but they are more forgiving of varying charge conditions and their efficiency doesn’t suffer as much.		\n			<p>Heat pump service</p>		\n		Like furnaces, heat pumps should be serviced regularly. Basic service can be done by anyone. Air filters should be replaced once or twice a year, as needed, and the outdoor coil should be kept free of snow and debris. Regular service calls— typically every two to three years—should include testing the controls, cleaning the blower and both the indoor and the outdoor coils as needed, and checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines. To service your heat pump, try to find a contractor whose technicians are certified by North American Technician Excellence (NATE, see www.hvacradvice.com), or who demonstrates a commitment to attending manufacturers’ programs frequently. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing airflow problems, then carefully measuring and correcting refrigerant charge. Once that has been done, service technicians generally should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless the system performance drops off or there is other evidence that something is wrong. Refrigerant does not escape unless there is a leak.		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic4.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic4\" alt=\"Heating_Pic4\" />											\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heatin_Pic5.png\" title=\"Heatin_Pic5\" alt=\"Heatin_Pic5\" />											\n			<p>Ductless Heat Pumps</p>		\n		Ductless heat pumps, often called minisplit heat pumps, are available in higher heating (and cooling) efficiencies than just about any other heat pumps on the market. The most efficient ones use an inverter-driven compressor, and variable speed fans that run continuously at a low speed to match the load in the house and minimize noise. One outdoor unit may be used with one or more indoor units that deliver heat and cooling to the house. Each indoor unit connects to the outdoor unit with a small bundle of pipes and wires that carry refrigerant and electricity, so there are no duct losses. Some models are designed for cold climate operation and maintain a high heating capacity and decent efficiency near 0°F. A single mini-split makes a great heating and cooling system for a single-room addition or a deep energy remodel, or to offset electric resistance, oil, or LP gas heat.		\n			<p>Ground-source heat pumps</p>		\n		Ground-source heat pumps (or GSHPs; often called geothermal heat pumps) extract heat from the earth or from underground water, rather than from outdoor air. Because temperatures are more stable underground, GSHP systems theoretically have much higher heating efficiencies than air-source heat pumps; rated Coefficient of Performance (COPs) range from about 3 to 5 (300 percent to 500 percent). There are two basic types of GSHP systems. Closed-loop (ground-loop) systems are usually more efficient but can be more expensive to install. Open-loop (groundwater or water source) systems usually cost less to install but can cost more to run, due to the power consumption of a large well pump that’s often required for these systems. A third type of GSHP, called direct exchange (DX), uses a copper pipe ground loop to circulate refrigerant underground. Their long-term reliability is less clear than that of closed loop water-based systems. Like air-source heat pumps, ground-source heat pumps can be cost-effective in regions with mild or hot climates and moderate electric rates, especially in areas where installation costs are modest. However, in regions with cold climates and high electric rates, they generally do not provide enough savings to justify the high installation cost. Ground-source heat pumps can also have very high cooling efficiencies. The heating capacity of GSHPs is much better in cold weather than that of conventional air-source heat pumps, so there is typically little or no need for supplemental electric heat. Closed-loop systems need little or no maintenance, but open-loop systems may have water-quality issues, filters that need replacing, and well pumps with shortened life expectancies.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Heating','','inherit','closed','closed','','2075-revision-v1','','','2018-07-24 14:18:44','2018-07-24 14:18:44','',2075,'http://ee.ene.org/2075-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2084,4,'2018-07-24 14:33:13','2018-07-24 14:33:13','<h2><p>Heating and Cooling Systems</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Efficiency Losses in a Heating System</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Duct Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Furnaces</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Heat Pumps</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Electric-Resistance Heat</a>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Hot-Water and Steam Boilers</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment</a></p>		\n			<h1>Efficiency Losses in a Heating System</h1>		\n		Not all the energy in the fuel you buy contributes to heating your house. Your heating system’s efficiency is the amount of useful heat you get as a percentage of purchased energy. Anything less than 100 percent represents waste, or lost efficiency. There are three kinds of heating system losses: combustion loss, cycling loss, and distribution loss. Combustion loss is simply the heat that goes up the chimney; it varies from about 30 percent to as little as 3 percent. That leaves a combustion efficiency between 70 percent and 97 percent; that is, the percentage of the fuel you buy that is converted to heat in the equipment. Combustion efficiency is mostly affected by equipment design; unless the burners are badly out of tune, it can’t be improved much unless you buy a new unit.\n Cycling losses occur when the heating equipment starts and stops. Each time the unit shuts off, some heat remains inside; some of that heat goes up the chimney. Cycling losses are affected by the equipment design, location, and controls; some efficiency improvements can be made if the controls are set poorly to begin with. Distribution losses occur when heat generated in the equipment gets out of the house before it reaches its destination. Distribution losses include duct air leaks and conductive losses through uninsulated ducts or pipes. Distribution losses can be significant: 5 percent to 30 percent, so in many homes a large improvement can be made.\n			<p>Comfort and energy use</p>		\n		Another fairly simple factor that affects heating-system performance is system balancing. Balancing refers to the temperature consistency from one room to the next. If one or more rooms are consistently too cold, people tend to set the thermostat high enough to be comfortable in those rooms. The rest of the house then overheats, using more energy. Balancing problems can be caused by thermal defects in the building, by problems in the distribution system, or by the thermostat location. Rooms that have air leaks, drafts, or missing insulation may lose heat faster than neighboring rooms, or they may just be uncomfortable. Thermal problems should be fixed before addressing the heating system. Once the building enclosure is properly treated, the distribution system can usually be adjusted for better balance.		\n			<h1>Duct-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Air leaks in a duct system can have an enormous effect on your house. Duct leaks rob a furnace, heat pump, or central air system of energy— sometimes close to half. Leaks can cause comfort problems, drive moisture flows, and sometimes even lead to dangerous back drafting of combustion equipment. Leaky basement ducts don’t usually waste much energy; sealing them is pretty easy, but there’s not much value to it. But ducts located in attics, garages, or vented crawlspaces can be a big energy problem. Sealing them can be the biggest opportunity for energy savings in many homes. Leaky ducts do more than let heat out. They also increase the air exchange in a house by 30 percent to 300 percent whenever the air handler is running. That is why furnaces have the reputation for drying out houses. Return leaks in a mechanical room or basement can backdraft a nearby water heater or even the furnace itself. Return leaks can also draw in radon gas, water vapor, subsoil pesticides, or airborne mold spores, distributing them throughout the house.</p><p>Supply air leaking into an attic or enclosed cathedral ceiling cavity can deliver moisture at an accelerated rate to cold roof sheathing, causing condensation. If the ducts also carry central air-conditioning, return leaks can bring in outdoor humidity in the summer, reducing cooling efficiency, and leaks can draw outside air into building cavities, where moisture can lead to mold inside the house. Duct leaks are even more important than shell air leaks: Each hole and crack is under pressure from the furnace fan and leaks the hot air from your furnace (or cold air from your air conditioner).</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic1.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic1\" alt=\"Heating_Pic1\" />											<figcaption>It’s important to peel back the insulation and vapor jacket to seal the duct connections. The black stains are from the air leaks.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n		Return ducts can be a bigger challenge. Return systems are frequently patched together using a combination of plywood, sheet metal, joist or wall cavities, and a lot of wishful thinking. Many HVAC installers don’t pay much attention to returns, focusing mostly on supplies that get the air to where it’s supposed to go. But well-sealed returns are important for furnace efficiency, occupant health and safety, and building durability. Fortunately, it’s not typically necessary to seal ducts that are buried inside interior wall and floor cavities. However, you do want to ensure that those cavities don’t leak to outside spaces; if they do, seal those leaks at the thermal boundary to keep the ducts and the indoor air inside.		\n			<p>Duct insulation</p>		\n		<p>Ductwork that runs through unconditioned space should be insulated, if it is not already. Typically, supply ducts are insulated but often have weak spots at register boots and other major connections. Often, return ductwork is left uninsulated.</p><p>Ducts should be insulated with vinyl-faced fiberglass wrap; R-6 is the minimum allowed by current residential codes; R-8 is required for supply ducts in attics. If possible, attic ducts should have higher R-values. Think about it: In winter, attic temperatures are nearly as cold as outdoors; in summer (for air-conditioning ducts), they are often much hotter than outdoors. If the ducts are close to the attic floor, cover them completely with loose-fill insulation. If that is not possible, try to find R-10 or higher duct wrap. Of course, seal all the duct connections tightly before insulating.</p>		\n			<h1>Furnaces</h1>		\n		The furnace is by far the most common type of heating system in the country. In fact, it’s so common that many people use the word furnace to describe any type of heating equipment. Furnaces create heat by burning fuel, usually natural gas. Oil and liquefied petroleum (LP, or propane) gas are also used in areas where piped gas is unavailable. By contrast, heat pumps and electric furnaces use electricity to heat the air; they also use a duct system to deliver heat, but they are not furnaces and do not have a fuel supply, chimney, or vent pipe. Boilers burn gas or oil but create hot water or steam instead of warm air. Furnace efficiency can be improved by performing regular maintenance, improving airflow, adjusting control settings, and sealing leaky ductwork.		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic2.jpg\" title=\"Heating_Pic2\" alt=\"Heating_Pic2\" />											\n			<p>Regular maintenance</p>		\n		<p>Regular furnace maintenance is important to keep things running well, just as with any machine, but tune-ups and filter replacements don’t really save energy. Be sure to change the filter once or twice a year; more frequently is not much benefit because filters actually work better once some dust has built up on them. If the filter never gets dirty, however, then you may have a duct leak that is causing a loss of efficiency. Keeping registers open and free of obstructions may help your comfort, but this also won’t affect your energy bills noticeably.</p><p> </p><p>If you have a gas furnace, you should have it cleaned and tuned every two to four years. An oil burner should be tuned every year. Don’t wait until cold weather hits—that’s when the service companies are busy. You may get a better price if you get the tune-up in the spring.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic3.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic3\" alt=\"Heating_Pic3\" />											<figcaption>Air filters should be replaced occasionally for best furnace performance. This pleated filter is more effective than the standard cheap fiberglass filter, and it doesn’t cost much more.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Low airflow</p>		\n		<p>Low airflow can also reduce furnace efficiency. It can be caused by clogged air-conditioning coils, low fan speed settings, loose fan drive belts, undersized ductwork, or duct obstructions. Sometimes airflow is low to one room or section of the house, causing discomfort. Diagnosing low airflow is complex, but once identified, the fixes are usually fairly easy and inexpensive. These improvements are probably better left to a professional, but it’s good to be informed, because many technicians don’t bother checking airflow. If a service person is unable to explain in sensible terms what is happening in your system, you may want to get an opinion from another technician.</p>		\n			<p>Furnace Tune-Up</p>		\n		A professional tune-up for a gas furnace includes cleaning the burner and heat exchanger, checking the adjustment of air and fuel flow, cleaning and checking the heat exchanger for leaks, and testing draft pressure and carbon monoxide levels. The air-handler fan should be cleaned and lubricated as needed, once every two or three tune-ups. In addition, internal controls may be checked and adjusted if necessary. Don’t expect any real energy savings from a gas furnace tune-up; every two to four years is often enough. Oil burners are more finicky than gas burners. Most oil furnaces benefit from annual professional service; fuel filters, burner nozzles, electrodes, combustion chamber, heat exchanger, and flue pipe all need regular cleaning and adjustment. Checking heat exchangers and testing combustion efficiency are also useful. Try to find a technician who is knowledgeable, methodical, and thorough. If you have an oil furnace, the service technician might also recommend installing a smaller oil nozzle. This can reduce the heat output of the furnace, better matching it to the house and increasing operating efficiency slightly.		\n			<p>Furnace control settings</p>		\n		<p>The furnace controls can also have an impact on efficiency. The blower control, located above the heat exchanger, turns on the blower when it senses heat from the burner. The fan-on temperature should be set so the blower comes on between 90°F and 105°F; if it’s set too high, the burner will fire for a long time before the fan comes on, letting excess heat go up the chimney. If it’s set too low, the circulating air may feel uncomfortably cool.</p><p> </p><p>The fan-off temperature must be slightly lower than the fan-on temperature: between 85°F and 100°F. The lower it is set, the longer the fan will run at the end of the cycle when the thermostat turns off the burners, moving residual heat from the heat exchanger to your house. If your fan-on and fan-off temperatures are fixed (rather than adjustable) and set too high, the control can be replaced. Note that the temperature markings on adjustable controls are often poorly calibrated. Verify the actual fan-on and fan-off temperatures with a thermometer in the supply plenum.</p>		\n			<h1>Heat Pumps</h1>		\n		Air-source heat pumps, popular in some parts of the country, are basically air conditioners that can work in reverse to deliver heat into the house in winter. Heat pumps provide heating and cooling in one machine, with one duct system and no combustion. Heat pumps are not subject to backdrafting, combustion air requirements, or some of the offcycle losses to which furnaces are prone. Because they use ducts to deliver warm air to the house, heat pump ducts in attics, garages, and crawlspaces must be sealed thoroughly and insulated well. Heat pumps are more prone to airflow problems than furnaces are, and improper refrigerant charging can have a negative impact on both heating and cooling efficiency. 		\n			<p>Operating efficiency and resistance heating</p>		\n		Heat pumps are rated using Heating System Performance Factor, or HSPF. An HSPF of 6.8 corresponds to an efficiency of 200 percent. Most new heat pumps vary from 7.3 to about 10 HSPF; the larger the number, the more efficient the unit. An HSPF of 10 is approximately equal to 290-percent efficient—for every kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity you buy, you get almost 3 kWh of heat delivered to your house. How can a heat pump generate more energy than it consumes? The difference is made up by heat energy absorbed from the outdoor air. That energy goes into the system; because it’s free, it’s not counted in the measurement of efficiency. Most heat pumps, by themselves, operate at reasonable efficiencies until outside air temperatures drop to about 35°F to 40°F. As the outdoor air gets colder, less heat is available, and the heat pump output drops off, even as the house needs more heat. So cold-weather performance is typically supplemented with electric-resistance backup heaters. This auxiliary heat costs about three times more per unit of heat than the compressor heating cycle. That may be fine in regions with long summers, mild winters, and relatively low electric rates, but it’s not in much of the North, where electricity is expensive and winters are cold. One fairly inexpensive way to reduce the use of electric-resistance heating is to install an outdoor cutout thermostat. For about $100 to $150 installed, this device locks out the supplemental electric heat when the outdoor air temperature is above 30°F or 35°F.		\n			<p>Airflow</p>		\n		Heat pumps are even more sensitive to airflow than furnaces are. Heat pumps need to move a larger volume of air, but installers who are used to working with furnaces sometimes skimp on duct sizing, leading to low-airflow problems. Unfortunately, checking the airflow of a heat pump is not as easy as checking that of a furnace. It can be done with special instruments or with a version of the temperature-rise method used with the electric-resistance backup heat. Don’t attempt to take these measurements unless you understand exactly what you are doing—if you aren’t sure, get a service technician to do it for you. For best efficiency, heat pump airflow should be 375 CFM to 425 CFM per ton of heating capacity. It should never be below 300 CFM per ton. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour, and equipment is typically rated in increments of 1⁄2 ton, such as “24” (×1,000 Btu, or 2 tons), “30” (21⁄2 tons), “36” (3 tons), etc.		\n			<p>Refrigerant charge</p>		\n		Older heat pumps are also finicky about refrigerant charge. Many heat pumps, even when serviced regularly, are either over- or undercharged, which has a negative impact on efficiency. Unfortunately, many service technicians don’t take the time to diagnose or correct those problems; they typically get the system working and move on to the next service call. To measure charge correctly, airflow must be in the recommended range, and few technicians test airflow as a matter of course. There are very specific ways to measure refrigerant charge during unit operation. Depending on the type of unit, the superheat or subcooling must be measured carefully, as it is for an air conditioner. There are also several automated systems on the market today that trained technicians can use to analyze heat pump operation. Newer high-efficiency models should also be properly charged, but they are more forgiving of varying charge conditions and their efficiency doesn’t suffer as much.		\n			<p>Heat pump service</p>		\n		Like furnaces, heat pumps should be serviced regularly. Basic service can be done by anyone. Air filters should be replaced once or twice a year, as needed, and the outdoor coil should be kept free of snow and debris. Regular service calls— typically every two to three years—should include testing the controls, cleaning the blower and both the indoor and the outdoor coils as needed, and checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines. To service your heat pump, try to find a contractor whose technicians are certified by North American Technician Excellence (NATE, see www.hvacradvice.com), or who demonstrates a commitment to attending manufacturers’ programs frequently. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing airflow problems, then carefully measuring and correcting refrigerant charge. Once that has been done, service technicians generally should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless the system performance drops off or there is other evidence that something is wrong. Refrigerant does not escape unless there is a leak.		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic4.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic4\" alt=\"Heating_Pic4\" />											\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heatin_Pic5.png\" title=\"Heatin_Pic5\" alt=\"Heatin_Pic5\" />											\n			<p>Ductless Heat Pumps</p>		\n		Ductless heat pumps, often called minisplit heat pumps, are available in higher heating (and cooling) efficiencies than just about any other heat pumps on the market. The most efficient ones use an inverter-driven compressor, and variable speed fans that run continuously at a low speed to match the load in the house and minimize noise. One outdoor unit may be used with one or more indoor units that deliver heat and cooling to the house. Each indoor unit connects to the outdoor unit with a small bundle of pipes and wires that carry refrigerant and electricity, so there are no duct losses. Some models are designed for cold climate operation and maintain a high heating capacity and decent efficiency near 0°F. A single mini-split makes a great heating and cooling system for a single-room addition or a deep energy remodel, or to offset electric resistance, oil, or LP gas heat.		\n			<p>Ground-source heat pumps</p>		\n		Ground-source heat pumps (or GSHPs; often called geothermal heat pumps) extract heat from the earth or from underground water, rather than from outdoor air. Because temperatures are more stable underground, GSHP systems theoretically have much higher heating efficiencies than air-source heat pumps; rated Coefficient of Performance (COPs) range from about 3 to 5 (300 percent to 500 percent). There are two basic types of GSHP systems. Closed-loop (ground-loop) systems are usually more efficient but can be more expensive to install. Open-loop (groundwater or water source) systems usually cost less to install but can cost more to run, due to the power consumption of a large well pump that’s often required for these systems. A third type of GSHP, called direct exchange (DX), uses a copper pipe ground loop to circulate refrigerant underground. Their long-term reliability is less clear than that of closed loop water-based systems. Like air-source heat pumps, ground-source heat pumps can be cost-effective in regions with mild or hot climates and moderate electric rates, especially in areas where installation costs are modest. However, in regions with cold climates and high electric rates, they generally do not provide enough savings to justify the high installation cost. Ground-source heat pumps can also have very high cooling efficiencies. The heating capacity of GSHPs is much better in cold weather than that of conventional air-source heat pumps, so there is typically little or no need for supplemental electric heat. Closed-loop systems need little or no maintenance, but open-loop systems may have water-quality issues, filters that need replacing, and well pumps with shortened life expectancies.		\n			<p>Ground-Source Heat Pump Efficiency</p>		\n		Efficiency ratings for GSHPs come in three flavors: water loop, ground loop, and ground water. “Water loop” is used for commercial systems; “ground loop” is used for closed loops; and “ground water” for open loops. All of them rate the heating efficiency using a Coefficient of Performance, which is the ratio of heat out to electricity in: A COP of 3 represents a heating efficiency of 300 percent. There’s a trick to the GSHP performance ratings: You can’t achieve them in a real installation. The rating applies only to “the box” itself and does not include most of the energy required to pump water or move air through the system. Depending on the installation, this can increase real operating costs between 20 percent and 100 percent (bringing a rated COP of 5 down to somewhere between 4 and 2.5). Despite marketing claims that GSHPs are “renewable” and “green,” they still run on electricity. Because electric generation and power lines are inefficient, a GSHP may actually be more expensive to run and generate more emissions than a high-efficiency natural gas furnace and AC system. GSHPs are, however, typically cheaper and cleaner than oil or LP gas heat. They are also quite expensive to install; my preference is to invest in a more efficient building enclosure.		\n			<h1>Electric-Resistance Heat</h1>		\n		Most electric-resistance heating systems are simple electric baseboard heaters. There are also various types of radiant-heat systems (usually panels mounted on ceiling or walls, built into valances, or built into ceiling or wall-finish systems). Cheap to install but expensive to operate, electric-resistance heat operates on the same principle as that of a toaster or hot plate. An electric current passes through a wire element, heating it. Air passes through and is heated by fins in the baseboard. Electric-resistance heat is always 100-percent efficient; every kilowatt-hour of electricity that you pay for is converted to heat. The reason electric baseboards are expensive to operate is that electricity costs two to four times as much as natural gas. One advantage of electric heat is the ease with which rooms can be zoned. But with the high fuel cost and hidden emissions, it’s difficult to justify except in special situations, such as isolated rooms, or extremely mild climates like southern Florida or Hawaii. Because these systems are so simple, there is very little that can be done to improve their efficiency. Short of supplementing or completely replacing them, the best approach (as always) is to insulate and thoroughly seal the building to reduce heating loads.		\n			<p>Operating efficiency and resistance heating</p>		\n		Heat pumps are rated using Heating System Performance Factor, or HSPF. An HSPF of 6.8 corresponds to an efficiency of 200 percent. Most new heat pumps vary from 7.3 to about 10 HSPF; the larger the number, the more efficient the unit. An HSPF of 10 is approximately equal to 290-percent efficient—for every kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity you buy, you get almost 3 kWh of heat delivered to your house. How can a heat pump generate more energy than it consumes? The difference is made up by heat energy absorbed from the outdoor air. That energy goes into the system; because it’s free, it’s not counted in the measurement of efficiency. Most heat pumps, by themselves, operate at reasonable efficiencies until outside air temperatures drop to about 35°F to 40°F. As the outdoor air gets colder, less heat is available, and the heat pump output drops off, even as the house needs more heat. So cold-weather performance is typically supplemented with electric-resistance backup heaters. This auxiliary heat costs about three times more per unit of heat than the compressor heating cycle. That may be fine in regions with long summers, mild winters, and relatively low electric rates, but it’s not in much of the North, where electricity is expensive and winters are cold. One fairly inexpensive way to reduce the use of electric-resistance heating is to install an outdoor cutout thermostat. For about $100 to $150 installed, this device locks out the supplemental electric heat when the outdoor air temperature is above 30°F or 35°F.		\n			<p>Airflow</p>		\n		Heat pumps are even more sensitive to airflow than furnaces are. Heat pumps need to move a larger volume of air, but installers who are used to working with furnaces sometimes skimp on duct sizing, leading to low-airflow problems. Unfortunately, checking the airflow of a heat pump is not as easy as checking that of a furnace. It can be done with special instruments or with a version of the temperature-rise method used with the electric-resistance backup heat. Don’t attempt to take these measurements unless you understand exactly what you are doing—if you aren’t sure, get a service technician to do it for you. For best efficiency, heat pump airflow should be 375 CFM to 425 CFM per ton of heating capacity. It should never be below 300 CFM per ton. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour, and equipment is typically rated in increments of 1⁄2 ton, such as “24” (×1,000 Btu, or 2 tons), “30” (21⁄2 tons), “36” (3 tons), etc.		\n			<p>Refrigerant charge</p>		\n		Older heat pumps are also finicky about refrigerant charge. Many heat pumps, even when serviced regularly, are either over- or undercharged, which has a negative impact on efficiency. Unfortunately, many service technicians don’t take the time to diagnose or correct those problems; they typically get the system working and move on to the next service call. To measure charge correctly, airflow must be in the recommended range, and few technicians test airflow as a matter of course. There are very specific ways to measure refrigerant charge during unit operation. Depending on the type of unit, the superheat or subcooling must be measured carefully, as it is for an air conditioner. There are also several automated systems on the market today that trained technicians can use to analyze heat pump operation. Newer high-efficiency models should also be properly charged, but they are more forgiving of varying charge conditions and their efficiency doesn’t suffer as much.		\n			<p>Heat pump service</p>		\n		Like furnaces, heat pumps should be serviced regularly. Basic service can be done by anyone. Air filters should be replaced once or twice a year, as needed, and the outdoor coil should be kept free of snow and debris. Regular service calls— typically every two to three years—should include testing the controls, cleaning the blower and both the indoor and the outdoor coils as needed, and checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines. To service your heat pump, try to find a contractor whose technicians are certified by North American Technician Excellence (NATE, see www.hvacradvice.com), or who demonstrates a commitment to attending manufacturers’ programs frequently. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing airflow problems, then carefully measuring and correcting refrigerant charge. Once that has been done, service technicians generally should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless the system performance drops off or there is other evidence that something is wrong. Refrigerant does not escape unless there is a leak.		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heatin_Pic5.png\" title=\"Heatin_Pic5\" alt=\"Heatin_Pic5\" />											\n			<p>Ductless Heat Pumps</p>		\n		Ductless heat pumps, often called minisplit heat pumps, are available in higher heating (and cooling) efficiencies than just about any other heat pumps on the market. The most efficient ones use an inverter-driven compressor, and variable speed fans that run continuously at a low speed to match the load in the house and minimize noise. One outdoor unit may be used with one or more indoor units that deliver heat and cooling to the house. Each indoor unit connects to the outdoor unit with a small bundle of pipes and wires that carry refrigerant and electricity, so there are no duct losses. Some models are designed for cold climate operation and maintain a high heating capacity and decent efficiency near 0°F. A single mini-split makes a great heating and cooling system for a single-room addition or a deep energy remodel, or to offset electric resistance, oil, or LP gas heat.		\n			<p>Ground-source heat pumps</p>		\n		Ground-source heat pumps (or GSHPs; often called geothermal heat pumps) extract heat from the earth or from underground water, rather than from outdoor air. Because temperatures are more stable underground, GSHP systems theoretically have much higher heating efficiencies than air-source heat pumps; rated Coefficient of Performance (COPs) range from about 3 to 5 (300 percent to 500 percent). There are two basic types of GSHP systems. Closed-loop (ground-loop) systems are usually more efficient but can be more expensive to install. Open-loop (groundwater or water source) systems usually cost less to install but can cost more to run, due to the power consumption of a large well pump that’s often required for these systems. A third type of GSHP, called direct exchange (DX), uses a copper pipe ground loop to circulate refrigerant underground. Their long-term reliability is less clear than that of closed loop water-based systems. Like air-source heat pumps, ground-source heat pumps can be cost-effective in regions with mild or hot climates and moderate electric rates, especially in areas where installation costs are modest. However, in regions with cold climates and high electric rates, they generally do not provide enough savings to justify the high installation cost. Ground-source heat pumps can also have very high cooling efficiencies. The heating capacity of GSHPs is much better in cold weather than that of conventional air-source heat pumps, so there is typically little or no need for supplemental electric heat. Closed-loop systems need little or no maintenance, but open-loop systems may have water-quality issues, filters that need replacing, and well pumps with shortened life expectancies.		\n			<p>Ground-Source Heat Pump Efficiency</p>		\n		Efficiency ratings for GSHPs come in three flavors: water loop, ground loop, and ground water. “Water loop” is used for commercial systems; “ground loop” is used for closed loops; and “ground water” for open loops. All of them rate the heating efficiency using a Coefficient of Performance, which is the ratio of heat out to electricity in: A COP of 3 represents a heating efficiency of 300 percent. There’s a trick to the GSHP performance ratings: You can’t achieve them in a real installation. The rating applies only to “the box” itself and does not include most of the energy required to pump water or move air through the system. Depending on the installation, this can increase real operating costs between 20 percent and 100 percent (bringing a rated COP of 5 down to somewhere between 4 and 2.5). Despite marketing claims that GSHPs are “renewable” and “green,” they still run on electricity. Because electric generation and power lines are inefficient, a GSHP may actually be more expensive to run and generate more emissions than a high-efficiency natural gas furnace and AC system. GSHPs are, however, typically cheaper and cleaner than oil or LP gas heat. They are also quite expensive to install; my preference is to invest in a more efficient building enclosure.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Heating','','inherit','closed','closed','','2075-revision-v1','','','2018-07-24 14:33:13','2018-07-24 14:33:13','',2075,'http://ee.ene.org/2075-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2085,4,'2018-07-24 14:34:09','2018-07-24 14:34:09','','Heating_Pic6','','inherit','open','closed','','heating_pic6','','','2018-07-24 14:34:09','2018-07-24 14:34:09','',2075,'/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic6.png',0,'attachment','image/png',0),(2087,4,'2018-07-24 14:44:29','2018-07-24 14:44:29','<h2><p>Heating and Cooling Systems</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Efficiency Losses in a Heating System</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Duct Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Furnaces</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Heat Pumps</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Electric-Resistance Heat</a>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Hot-Water and Steam Boilers</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment</a></p>		\n			<h1>Efficiency Losses in a Heating System</h1>		\n		Not all the energy in the fuel you buy contributes to heating your house. Your heating system’s efficiency is the amount of useful heat you get as a percentage of purchased energy. Anything less than 100 percent represents waste, or lost efficiency. There are three kinds of heating system losses: combustion loss, cycling loss, and distribution loss. Combustion loss is simply the heat that goes up the chimney; it varies from about 30 percent to as little as 3 percent. That leaves a combustion efficiency between 70 percent and 97 percent; that is, the percentage of the fuel you buy that is converted to heat in the equipment. Combustion efficiency is mostly affected by equipment design; unless the burners are badly out of tune, it can’t be improved much unless you buy a new unit.\n Cycling losses occur when the heating equipment starts and stops. Each time the unit shuts off, some heat remains inside; some of that heat goes up the chimney. Cycling losses are affected by the equipment design, location, and controls; some efficiency improvements can be made if the controls are set poorly to begin with. Distribution losses occur when heat generated in the equipment gets out of the house before it reaches its destination. Distribution losses include duct air leaks and conductive losses through uninsulated ducts or pipes. Distribution losses can be significant: 5 percent to 30 percent, so in many homes a large improvement can be made.\n			<p>Comfort and energy use</p>		\n		Another fairly simple factor that affects heating-system performance is system balancing. Balancing refers to the temperature consistency from one room to the next. If one or more rooms are consistently too cold, people tend to set the thermostat high enough to be comfortable in those rooms. The rest of the house then overheats, using more energy. Balancing problems can be caused by thermal defects in the building, by problems in the distribution system, or by the thermostat location. Rooms that have air leaks, drafts, or missing insulation may lose heat faster than neighboring rooms, or they may just be uncomfortable. Thermal problems should be fixed before addressing the heating system. Once the building enclosure is properly treated, the distribution system can usually be adjusted for better balance.		\n			<h1>Duct-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Air leaks in a duct system can have an enormous effect on your house. Duct leaks rob a furnace, heat pump, or central air system of energy— sometimes close to half. Leaks can cause comfort problems, drive moisture flows, and sometimes even lead to dangerous back drafting of combustion equipment. Leaky basement ducts don’t usually waste much energy; sealing them is pretty easy, but there’s not much value to it. But ducts located in attics, garages, or vented crawlspaces can be a big energy problem. Sealing them can be the biggest opportunity for energy savings in many homes. Leaky ducts do more than let heat out. They also increase the air exchange in a house by 30 percent to 300 percent whenever the air handler is running. That is why furnaces have the reputation for drying out houses. Return leaks in a mechanical room or basement can backdraft a nearby water heater or even the furnace itself. Return leaks can also draw in radon gas, water vapor, subsoil pesticides, or airborne mold spores, distributing them throughout the house.</p><p>Supply air leaking into an attic or enclosed cathedral ceiling cavity can deliver moisture at an accelerated rate to cold roof sheathing, causing condensation. If the ducts also carry central air-conditioning, return leaks can bring in outdoor humidity in the summer, reducing cooling efficiency, and leaks can draw outside air into building cavities, where moisture can lead to mold inside the house. Duct leaks are even more important than shell air leaks: Each hole and crack is under pressure from the furnace fan and leaks the hot air from your furnace (or cold air from your air conditioner).</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic1.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic1\" alt=\"Heating_Pic1\" />											<figcaption>It’s important to peel back the insulation and vapor jacket to seal the duct connections. The black stains are from the air leaks.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n		Return ducts can be a bigger challenge. Return systems are frequently patched together using a combination of plywood, sheet metal, joist or wall cavities, and a lot of wishful thinking. Many HVAC installers don’t pay much attention to returns, focusing mostly on supplies that get the air to where it’s supposed to go. But well-sealed returns are important for furnace efficiency, occupant health and safety, and building durability. Fortunately, it’s not typically necessary to seal ducts that are buried inside interior wall and floor cavities. However, you do want to ensure that those cavities don’t leak to outside spaces; if they do, seal those leaks at the thermal boundary to keep the ducts and the indoor air inside.		\n			<p>Duct insulation</p>		\n		<p>Ductwork that runs through unconditioned space should be insulated, if it is not already. Typically, supply ducts are insulated but often have weak spots at register boots and other major connections. Often, return ductwork is left uninsulated.</p><p>Ducts should be insulated with vinyl-faced fiberglass wrap; R-6 is the minimum allowed by current residential codes; R-8 is required for supply ducts in attics. If possible, attic ducts should have higher R-values. Think about it: In winter, attic temperatures are nearly as cold as outdoors; in summer (for air-conditioning ducts), they are often much hotter than outdoors. If the ducts are close to the attic floor, cover them completely with loose-fill insulation. If that is not possible, try to find R-10 or higher duct wrap. Of course, seal all the duct connections tightly before insulating.</p>		\n			<h1>Furnaces</h1>		\n		The furnace is by far the most common type of heating system in the country. In fact, it’s so common that many people use the word furnace to describe any type of heating equipment. Furnaces create heat by burning fuel, usually natural gas. Oil and liquefied petroleum (LP, or propane) gas are also used in areas where piped gas is unavailable. By contrast, heat pumps and electric furnaces use electricity to heat the air; they also use a duct system to deliver heat, but they are not furnaces and do not have a fuel supply, chimney, or vent pipe. Boilers burn gas or oil but create hot water or steam instead of warm air. Furnace efficiency can be improved by performing regular maintenance, improving airflow, adjusting control settings, and sealing leaky ductwork.		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic2.jpg\" title=\"Heating_Pic2\" alt=\"Heating_Pic2\" />											\n			<p>Regular maintenance</p>		\n		<p>Regular furnace maintenance is important to keep things running well, just as with any machine, but tune-ups and filter replacements don’t really save energy. Be sure to change the filter once or twice a year; more frequently is not much benefit because filters actually work better once some dust has built up on them. If the filter never gets dirty, however, then you may have a duct leak that is causing a loss of efficiency. Keeping registers open and free of obstructions may help your comfort, but this also won’t affect your energy bills noticeably.</p><p> </p><p>If you have a gas furnace, you should have it cleaned and tuned every two to four years. An oil burner should be tuned every year. Don’t wait until cold weather hits—that’s when the service companies are busy. You may get a better price if you get the tune-up in the spring.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic3.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic3\" alt=\"Heating_Pic3\" />											<figcaption>Air filters should be replaced occasionally for best furnace performance. This pleated filter is more effective than the standard cheap fiberglass filter, and it doesn’t cost much more.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Low airflow</p>		\n		<p>Low airflow can also reduce furnace efficiency. It can be caused by clogged air-conditioning coils, low fan speed settings, loose fan drive belts, undersized ductwork, or duct obstructions. Sometimes airflow is low to one room or section of the house, causing discomfort. Diagnosing low airflow is complex, but once identified, the fixes are usually fairly easy and inexpensive. These improvements are probably better left to a professional, but it’s good to be informed, because many technicians don’t bother checking airflow. If a service person is unable to explain in sensible terms what is happening in your system, you may want to get an opinion from another technician.</p>		\n			<p>Furnace Tune-Up</p>		\n		A professional tune-up for a gas furnace includes cleaning the burner and heat exchanger, checking the adjustment of air and fuel flow, cleaning and checking the heat exchanger for leaks, and testing draft pressure and carbon monoxide levels. The air-handler fan should be cleaned and lubricated as needed, once every two or three tune-ups. In addition, internal controls may be checked and adjusted if necessary. Don’t expect any real energy savings from a gas furnace tune-up; every two to four years is often enough. Oil burners are more finicky than gas burners. Most oil furnaces benefit from annual professional service; fuel filters, burner nozzles, electrodes, combustion chamber, heat exchanger, and flue pipe all need regular cleaning and adjustment. Checking heat exchangers and testing combustion efficiency are also useful. Try to find a technician who is knowledgeable, methodical, and thorough. If you have an oil furnace, the service technician might also recommend installing a smaller oil nozzle. This can reduce the heat output of the furnace, better matching it to the house and increasing operating efficiency slightly.		\n			<p>Furnace control settings</p>		\n		<p>The furnace controls can also have an impact on efficiency. The blower control, located above the heat exchanger, turns on the blower when it senses heat from the burner. The fan-on temperature should be set so the blower comes on between 90°F and 105°F; if it’s set too high, the burner will fire for a long time before the fan comes on, letting excess heat go up the chimney. If it’s set too low, the circulating air may feel uncomfortably cool.</p><p> </p><p>The fan-off temperature must be slightly lower than the fan-on temperature: between 85°F and 100°F. The lower it is set, the longer the fan will run at the end of the cycle when the thermostat turns off the burners, moving residual heat from the heat exchanger to your house. If your fan-on and fan-off temperatures are fixed (rather than adjustable) and set too high, the control can be replaced. Note that the temperature markings on adjustable controls are often poorly calibrated. Verify the actual fan-on and fan-off temperatures with a thermometer in the supply plenum.</p>		\n			<h1>Heat Pumps</h1>		\n		Air-source heat pumps, popular in some parts of the country, are basically air conditioners that can work in reverse to deliver heat into the house in winter. Heat pumps provide heating and cooling in one machine, with one duct system and no combustion. Heat pumps are not subject to backdrafting, combustion air requirements, or some of the offcycle losses to which furnaces are prone. Because they use ducts to deliver warm air to the house, heat pump ducts in attics, garages, and crawlspaces must be sealed thoroughly and insulated well. Heat pumps are more prone to airflow problems than furnaces are, and improper refrigerant charging can have a negative impact on both heating and cooling efficiency. 		\n			<p>Operating efficiency and resistance heating</p>		\n		Heat pumps are rated using Heating System Performance Factor, or HSPF. An HSPF of 6.8 corresponds to an efficiency of 200 percent. Most new heat pumps vary from 7.3 to about 10 HSPF; the larger the number, the more efficient the unit. An HSPF of 10 is approximately equal to 290-percent efficient—for every kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity you buy, you get almost 3 kWh of heat delivered to your house. How can a heat pump generate more energy than it consumes? The difference is made up by heat energy absorbed from the outdoor air. That energy goes into the system; because it’s free, it’s not counted in the measurement of efficiency. Most heat pumps, by themselves, operate at reasonable efficiencies until outside air temperatures drop to about 35°F to 40°F. As the outdoor air gets colder, less heat is available, and the heat pump output drops off, even as the house needs more heat. So cold-weather performance is typically supplemented with electric-resistance backup heaters. This auxiliary heat costs about three times more per unit of heat than the compressor heating cycle. That may be fine in regions with long summers, mild winters, and relatively low electric rates, but it’s not in much of the North, where electricity is expensive and winters are cold. One fairly inexpensive way to reduce the use of electric-resistance heating is to install an outdoor cutout thermostat. For about $100 to $150 installed, this device locks out the supplemental electric heat when the outdoor air temperature is above 30°F or 35°F.		\n			<p>Airflow</p>		\n		Heat pumps are even more sensitive to airflow than furnaces are. Heat pumps need to move a larger volume of air, but installers who are used to working with furnaces sometimes skimp on duct sizing, leading to low-airflow problems. Unfortunately, checking the airflow of a heat pump is not as easy as checking that of a furnace. It can be done with special instruments or with a version of the temperature-rise method used with the electric-resistance backup heat. Don’t attempt to take these measurements unless you understand exactly what you are doing—if you aren’t sure, get a service technician to do it for you. For best efficiency, heat pump airflow should be 375 CFM to 425 CFM per ton of heating capacity. It should never be below 300 CFM per ton. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour, and equipment is typically rated in increments of 1⁄2 ton, such as “24” (×1,000 Btu, or 2 tons), “30” (21⁄2 tons), “36” (3 tons), etc.		\n			<p>Refrigerant charge</p>		\n		Older heat pumps are also finicky about refrigerant charge. Many heat pumps, even when serviced regularly, are either over- or undercharged, which has a negative impact on efficiency. Unfortunately, many service technicians don’t take the time to diagnose or correct those problems; they typically get the system working and move on to the next service call. To measure charge correctly, airflow must be in the recommended range, and few technicians test airflow as a matter of course. There are very specific ways to measure refrigerant charge during unit operation. Depending on the type of unit, the superheat or subcooling must be measured carefully, as it is for an air conditioner. There are also several automated systems on the market today that trained technicians can use to analyze heat pump operation. Newer high-efficiency models should also be properly charged, but they are more forgiving of varying charge conditions and their efficiency doesn’t suffer as much.		\n			<p>Heat pump service</p>		\n		Like furnaces, heat pumps should be serviced regularly. Basic service can be done by anyone. Air filters should be replaced once or twice a year, as needed, and the outdoor coil should be kept free of snow and debris. Regular service calls— typically every two to three years—should include testing the controls, cleaning the blower and both the indoor and the outdoor coils as needed, and checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines. To service your heat pump, try to find a contractor whose technicians are certified by North American Technician Excellence (NATE, see www.hvacradvice.com), or who demonstrates a commitment to attending manufacturers’ programs frequently. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing airflow problems, then carefully measuring and correcting refrigerant charge. Once that has been done, service technicians generally should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless the system performance drops off or there is other evidence that something is wrong. Refrigerant does not escape unless there is a leak.		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic4.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic4\" alt=\"Heating_Pic4\" />											\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heatin_Pic5.png\" title=\"Heatin_Pic5\" alt=\"Heatin_Pic5\" />											\n			<p>Ductless Heat Pumps</p>		\n		Ductless heat pumps, often called minisplit heat pumps, are available in higher heating (and cooling) efficiencies than just about any other heat pumps on the market. The most efficient ones use an inverter-driven compressor, and variable speed fans that run continuously at a low speed to match the load in the house and minimize noise. One outdoor unit may be used with one or more indoor units that deliver heat and cooling to the house. Each indoor unit connects to the outdoor unit with a small bundle of pipes and wires that carry refrigerant and electricity, so there are no duct losses. Some models are designed for cold climate operation and maintain a high heating capacity and decent efficiency near 0°F. A single mini-split makes a great heating and cooling system for a single-room addition or a deep energy remodel, or to offset electric resistance, oil, or LP gas heat.		\n			<p>Ground-source heat pumps</p>		\n		Ground-source heat pumps (or GSHPs; often called geothermal heat pumps) extract heat from the earth or from underground water, rather than from outdoor air. Because temperatures are more stable underground, GSHP systems theoretically have much higher heating efficiencies than air-source heat pumps; rated Coefficient of Performance (COPs) range from about 3 to 5 (300 percent to 500 percent). There are two basic types of GSHP systems. Closed-loop (ground-loop) systems are usually more efficient but can be more expensive to install. Open-loop (groundwater or water source) systems usually cost less to install but can cost more to run, due to the power consumption of a large well pump that’s often required for these systems. A third type of GSHP, called direct exchange (DX), uses a copper pipe ground loop to circulate refrigerant underground. Their long-term reliability is less clear than that of closed loop water-based systems. Like air-source heat pumps, ground-source heat pumps can be cost-effective in regions with mild or hot climates and moderate electric rates, especially in areas where installation costs are modest. However, in regions with cold climates and high electric rates, they generally do not provide enough savings to justify the high installation cost. Ground-source heat pumps can also have very high cooling efficiencies. The heating capacity of GSHPs is much better in cold weather than that of conventional air-source heat pumps, so there is typically little or no need for supplemental electric heat. Closed-loop systems need little or no maintenance, but open-loop systems may have water-quality issues, filters that need replacing, and well pumps with shortened life expectancies.		\n			<p>Ground-Source Heat Pump Efficiency</p>		\n		Efficiency ratings for GSHPs come in three flavors: water loop, ground loop, and ground water. “Water loop” is used for commercial systems; “ground loop” is used for closed loops; and “ground water” for open loops. All of them rate the heating efficiency using a Coefficient of Performance, which is the ratio of heat out to electricity in: A COP of 3 represents a heating efficiency of 300 percent. There’s a trick to the GSHP performance ratings: You can’t achieve them in a real installation. The rating applies only to “the box” itself and does not include most of the energy required to pump water or move air through the system. Depending on the installation, this can increase real operating costs between 20 percent and 100 percent (bringing a rated COP of 5 down to somewhere between 4 and 2.5). Despite marketing claims that GSHPs are “renewable” and “green,” they still run on electricity. Because electric generation and power lines are inefficient, a GSHP may actually be more expensive to run and generate more emissions than a high-efficiency natural gas furnace and AC system. GSHPs are, however, typically cheaper and cleaner than oil or LP gas heat. They are also quite expensive to install; my preference is to invest in a more efficient building enclosure.		\n			<h1>Electric-Resistance Heat</h1>		\n		Most electric-resistance heating systems are simple electric baseboard heaters. There are also various types of radiant-heat systems (usually panels mounted on ceiling or walls, built into valances, or built into ceiling or wall-finish systems). Cheap to install but expensive to operate, electric-resistance heat operates on the same principle as that of a toaster or hot plate. An electric current passes through a wire element, heating it. Air passes through and is heated by fins in the baseboard. Electric-resistance heat is always 100-percent efficient; every kilowatt-hour of electricity that you pay for is converted to heat. The reason electric baseboards are expensive to operate is that electricity costs two to four times as much as natural gas. One advantage of electric heat is the ease with which rooms can be zoned. But with the high fuel cost and hidden emissions, it’s difficult to justify except in special situations, such as isolated rooms, or extremely mild climates like southern Florida or Hawaii. Because these systems are so simple, there is very little that can be done to improve their efficiency. Short of supplementing or completely replacing them, the best approach (as always) is to insulate and thoroughly seal the building to reduce heating loads.		\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic6.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic6\" alt=\"Heating_Pic6\" />											<figcaption>An electric baseboard heater is its own distribution system and is usually precisely in the area where heat is desired, so there are no distribution losses like those found in ductwork.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Supplementing Electric Heat</p>		\n		<p>A great way to reduce the cost of electric, LP or oil heat for a reasonable cost is with the installation of a variable speed ductless heat pump. The best systems are rated with an HSPF of 10 to 12, which means they use 65 percent to 70 percent less electricity per unit of delivered heat. Installing a single mini-split to heat a main living area can save 30 percent to 50 percent of a home’s heating bill (leaving the existing heat for remote rooms in cold weather), at an installed cost of $3,000 to $4,000. Ductless heat pumps also provide air-conditioning much more efficiently than do window units.</p>		\n			<p>Airflow</p>		\n		Heat pumps are even more sensitive to airflow than furnaces are. Heat pumps need to move a larger volume of air, but installers who are used to working with furnaces sometimes skimp on duct sizing, leading to low-airflow problems. Unfortunately, checking the airflow of a heat pump is not as easy as checking that of a furnace. It can be done with special instruments or with a version of the temperature-rise method used with the electric-resistance backup heat. Don’t attempt to take these measurements unless you understand exactly what you are doing—if you aren’t sure, get a service technician to do it for you. For best efficiency, heat pump airflow should be 375 CFM to 425 CFM per ton of heating capacity. It should never be below 300 CFM per ton. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour, and equipment is typically rated in increments of 1⁄2 ton, such as “24” (×1,000 Btu, or 2 tons), “30” (21⁄2 tons), “36” (3 tons), etc.		\n			<p>Refrigerant charge</p>		\n		Older heat pumps are also finicky about refrigerant charge. Many heat pumps, even when serviced regularly, are either over- or undercharged, which has a negative impact on efficiency. Unfortunately, many service technicians don’t take the time to diagnose or correct those problems; they typically get the system working and move on to the next service call. To measure charge correctly, airflow must be in the recommended range, and few technicians test airflow as a matter of course. There are very specific ways to measure refrigerant charge during unit operation. Depending on the type of unit, the superheat or subcooling must be measured carefully, as it is for an air conditioner. There are also several automated systems on the market today that trained technicians can use to analyze heat pump operation. Newer high-efficiency models should also be properly charged, but they are more forgiving of varying charge conditions and their efficiency doesn’t suffer as much.		\n			<p>Heat pump service</p>		\n		Like furnaces, heat pumps should be serviced regularly. Basic service can be done by anyone. Air filters should be replaced once or twice a year, as needed, and the outdoor coil should be kept free of snow and debris. Regular service calls— typically every two to three years—should include testing the controls, cleaning the blower and both the indoor and the outdoor coils as needed, and checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines. To service your heat pump, try to find a contractor whose technicians are certified by North American Technician Excellence (NATE, see www.hvacradvice.com), or who demonstrates a commitment to attending manufacturers’ programs frequently. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing airflow problems, then carefully measuring and correcting refrigerant charge. Once that has been done, service technicians generally should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless the system performance drops off or there is other evidence that something is wrong. Refrigerant does not escape unless there is a leak.		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heatin_Pic5.png\" title=\"Heatin_Pic5\" alt=\"Heatin_Pic5\" />											\n			<p>Ductless Heat Pumps</p>		\n		Ductless heat pumps, often called minisplit heat pumps, are available in higher heating (and cooling) efficiencies than just about any other heat pumps on the market. The most efficient ones use an inverter-driven compressor, and variable speed fans that run continuously at a low speed to match the load in the house and minimize noise. One outdoor unit may be used with one or more indoor units that deliver heat and cooling to the house. Each indoor unit connects to the outdoor unit with a small bundle of pipes and wires that carry refrigerant and electricity, so there are no duct losses. Some models are designed for cold climate operation and maintain a high heating capacity and decent efficiency near 0°F. A single mini-split makes a great heating and cooling system for a single-room addition or a deep energy remodel, or to offset electric resistance, oil, or LP gas heat.		\n			<p>Ground-source heat pumps</p>		\n		Ground-source heat pumps (or GSHPs; often called geothermal heat pumps) extract heat from the earth or from underground water, rather than from outdoor air. Because temperatures are more stable underground, GSHP systems theoretically have much higher heating efficiencies than air-source heat pumps; rated Coefficient of Performance (COPs) range from about 3 to 5 (300 percent to 500 percent). There are two basic types of GSHP systems. Closed-loop (ground-loop) systems are usually more efficient but can be more expensive to install. Open-loop (groundwater or water source) systems usually cost less to install but can cost more to run, due to the power consumption of a large well pump that’s often required for these systems. A third type of GSHP, called direct exchange (DX), uses a copper pipe ground loop to circulate refrigerant underground. Their long-term reliability is less clear than that of closed loop water-based systems. Like air-source heat pumps, ground-source heat pumps can be cost-effective in regions with mild or hot climates and moderate electric rates, especially in areas where installation costs are modest. However, in regions with cold climates and high electric rates, they generally do not provide enough savings to justify the high installation cost. Ground-source heat pumps can also have very high cooling efficiencies. The heating capacity of GSHPs is much better in cold weather than that of conventional air-source heat pumps, so there is typically little or no need for supplemental electric heat. Closed-loop systems need little or no maintenance, but open-loop systems may have water-quality issues, filters that need replacing, and well pumps with shortened life expectancies.		\n			<p>Ground-Source Heat Pump Efficiency</p>		\n		Efficiency ratings for GSHPs come in three flavors: water loop, ground loop, and ground water. “Water loop” is used for commercial systems; “ground loop” is used for closed loops; and “ground water” for open loops. All of them rate the heating efficiency using a Coefficient of Performance, which is the ratio of heat out to electricity in: A COP of 3 represents a heating efficiency of 300 percent. There’s a trick to the GSHP performance ratings: You can’t achieve them in a real installation. The rating applies only to “the box” itself and does not include most of the energy required to pump water or move air through the system. Depending on the installation, this can increase real operating costs between 20 percent and 100 percent (bringing a rated COP of 5 down to somewhere between 4 and 2.5). Despite marketing claims that GSHPs are “renewable” and “green,” they still run on electricity. Because electric generation and power lines are inefficient, a GSHP may actually be more expensive to run and generate more emissions than a high-efficiency natural gas furnace and AC system. GSHPs are, however, typically cheaper and cleaner than oil or LP gas heat. They are also quite expensive to install; my preference is to invest in a more efficient building enclosure.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Heating','','inherit','closed','closed','','2075-revision-v1','','','2018-07-24 14:44:29','2018-07-24 14:44:29','',2075,'http://ee.ene.org/2075-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2089,4,'2018-07-24 14:55:18','2018-07-24 14:55:18','','Heating_Pic7','','inherit','open','closed','','heating_pic7','','','2018-07-24 14:55:18','2018-07-24 14:55:18','',2075,'/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic7.png',0,'attachment','image/png',0),(2090,4,'2018-07-24 14:59:21','2018-07-24 14:59:21','<h2><p>Heating and Cooling Systems</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Efficiency Losses in a Heating System</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Duct Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Furnaces</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Heat Pumps</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Electric-Resistance Heat</a>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Hot-Water and Steam Boilers</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment</a></p>		\n			<h1>Efficiency Losses in a Heating System</h1>		\n		Not all the energy in the fuel you buy contributes to heating your house. Your heating system’s efficiency is the amount of useful heat you get as a percentage of purchased energy. Anything less than 100 percent represents waste, or lost efficiency. There are three kinds of heating system losses: combustion loss, cycling loss, and distribution loss. Combustion loss is simply the heat that goes up the chimney; it varies from about 30 percent to as little as 3 percent. That leaves a combustion efficiency between 70 percent and 97 percent; that is, the percentage of the fuel you buy that is converted to heat in the equipment. Combustion efficiency is mostly affected by equipment design; unless the burners are badly out of tune, it can’t be improved much unless you buy a new unit.\n Cycling losses occur when the heating equipment starts and stops. Each time the unit shuts off, some heat remains inside; some of that heat goes up the chimney. Cycling losses are affected by the equipment design, location, and controls; some efficiency improvements can be made if the controls are set poorly to begin with. Distribution losses occur when heat generated in the equipment gets out of the house before it reaches its destination. Distribution losses include duct air leaks and conductive losses through uninsulated ducts or pipes. Distribution losses can be significant: 5 percent to 30 percent, so in many homes a large improvement can be made.\n			<p>Comfort and energy use</p>		\n		Another fairly simple factor that affects heating-system performance is system balancing. Balancing refers to the temperature consistency from one room to the next. If one or more rooms are consistently too cold, people tend to set the thermostat high enough to be comfortable in those rooms. The rest of the house then overheats, using more energy. Balancing problems can be caused by thermal defects in the building, by problems in the distribution system, or by the thermostat location. Rooms that have air leaks, drafts, or missing insulation may lose heat faster than neighboring rooms, or they may just be uncomfortable. Thermal problems should be fixed before addressing the heating system. Once the building enclosure is properly treated, the distribution system can usually be adjusted for better balance.		\n			<h1>Duct-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Air leaks in a duct system can have an enormous effect on your house. Duct leaks rob a furnace, heat pump, or central air system of energy— sometimes close to half. Leaks can cause comfort problems, drive moisture flows, and sometimes even lead to dangerous back drafting of combustion equipment. Leaky basement ducts don’t usually waste much energy; sealing them is pretty easy, but there’s not much value to it. But ducts located in attics, garages, or vented crawlspaces can be a big energy problem. Sealing them can be the biggest opportunity for energy savings in many homes. Leaky ducts do more than let heat out. They also increase the air exchange in a house by 30 percent to 300 percent whenever the air handler is running. That is why furnaces have the reputation for drying out houses. Return leaks in a mechanical room or basement can backdraft a nearby water heater or even the furnace itself. Return leaks can also draw in radon gas, water vapor, subsoil pesticides, or airborne mold spores, distributing them throughout the house.</p><p>Supply air leaking into an attic or enclosed cathedral ceiling cavity can deliver moisture at an accelerated rate to cold roof sheathing, causing condensation. If the ducts also carry central air-conditioning, return leaks can bring in outdoor humidity in the summer, reducing cooling efficiency, and leaks can draw outside air into building cavities, where moisture can lead to mold inside the house. Duct leaks are even more important than shell air leaks: Each hole and crack is under pressure from the furnace fan and leaks the hot air from your furnace (or cold air from your air conditioner).</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic1.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic1\" alt=\"Heating_Pic1\" />											<figcaption>It’s important to peel back the insulation and vapor jacket to seal the duct connections. The black stains are from the air leaks.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n		Return ducts can be a bigger challenge. Return systems are frequently patched together using a combination of plywood, sheet metal, joist or wall cavities, and a lot of wishful thinking. Many HVAC installers don’t pay much attention to returns, focusing mostly on supplies that get the air to where it’s supposed to go. But well-sealed returns are important for furnace efficiency, occupant health and safety, and building durability. Fortunately, it’s not typically necessary to seal ducts that are buried inside interior wall and floor cavities. However, you do want to ensure that those cavities don’t leak to outside spaces; if they do, seal those leaks at the thermal boundary to keep the ducts and the indoor air inside.		\n			<p>Duct insulation</p>		\n		<p>Ductwork that runs through unconditioned space should be insulated, if it is not already. Typically, supply ducts are insulated but often have weak spots at register boots and other major connections. Often, return ductwork is left uninsulated.</p><p>Ducts should be insulated with vinyl-faced fiberglass wrap; R-6 is the minimum allowed by current residential codes; R-8 is required for supply ducts in attics. If possible, attic ducts should have higher R-values. Think about it: In winter, attic temperatures are nearly as cold as outdoors; in summer (for air-conditioning ducts), they are often much hotter than outdoors. If the ducts are close to the attic floor, cover them completely with loose-fill insulation. If that is not possible, try to find R-10 or higher duct wrap. Of course, seal all the duct connections tightly before insulating.</p>		\n			<h1>Furnaces</h1>		\n		The furnace is by far the most common type of heating system in the country. In fact, it’s so common that many people use the word furnace to describe any type of heating equipment. Furnaces create heat by burning fuel, usually natural gas. Oil and liquefied petroleum (LP, or propane) gas are also used in areas where piped gas is unavailable. By contrast, heat pumps and electric furnaces use electricity to heat the air; they also use a duct system to deliver heat, but they are not furnaces and do not have a fuel supply, chimney, or vent pipe. Boilers burn gas or oil but create hot water or steam instead of warm air. Furnace efficiency can be improved by performing regular maintenance, improving airflow, adjusting control settings, and sealing leaky ductwork.		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic2.jpg\" title=\"Heating_Pic2\" alt=\"Heating_Pic2\" />											\n			<p>Regular maintenance</p>		\n		<p>Regular furnace maintenance is important to keep things running well, just as with any machine, but tune-ups and filter replacements don’t really save energy. Be sure to change the filter once or twice a year; more frequently is not much benefit because filters actually work better once some dust has built up on them. If the filter never gets dirty, however, then you may have a duct leak that is causing a loss of efficiency. Keeping registers open and free of obstructions may help your comfort, but this also won’t affect your energy bills noticeably.</p><p> </p><p>If you have a gas furnace, you should have it cleaned and tuned every two to four years. An oil burner should be tuned every year. Don’t wait until cold weather hits—that’s when the service companies are busy. You may get a better price if you get the tune-up in the spring.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic3.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic3\" alt=\"Heating_Pic3\" />											<figcaption>Air filters should be replaced occasionally for best furnace performance. This pleated filter is more effective than the standard cheap fiberglass filter, and it doesn’t cost much more.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Low airflow</p>		\n		<p>Low airflow can also reduce furnace efficiency. It can be caused by clogged air-conditioning coils, low fan speed settings, loose fan drive belts, undersized ductwork, or duct obstructions. Sometimes airflow is low to one room or section of the house, causing discomfort. Diagnosing low airflow is complex, but once identified, the fixes are usually fairly easy and inexpensive. These improvements are probably better left to a professional, but it’s good to be informed, because many technicians don’t bother checking airflow. If a service person is unable to explain in sensible terms what is happening in your system, you may want to get an opinion from another technician.</p>		\n			<p>Furnace Tune-Up</p>		\n		A professional tune-up for a gas furnace includes cleaning the burner and heat exchanger, checking the adjustment of air and fuel flow, cleaning and checking the heat exchanger for leaks, and testing draft pressure and carbon monoxide levels. The air-handler fan should be cleaned and lubricated as needed, once every two or three tune-ups. In addition, internal controls may be checked and adjusted if necessary. Don’t expect any real energy savings from a gas furnace tune-up; every two to four years is often enough. Oil burners are more finicky than gas burners. Most oil furnaces benefit from annual professional service; fuel filters, burner nozzles, electrodes, combustion chamber, heat exchanger, and flue pipe all need regular cleaning and adjustment. Checking heat exchangers and testing combustion efficiency are also useful. Try to find a technician who is knowledgeable, methodical, and thorough. If you have an oil furnace, the service technician might also recommend installing a smaller oil nozzle. This can reduce the heat output of the furnace, better matching it to the house and increasing operating efficiency slightly.		\n			<p>Furnace control settings</p>		\n		<p>The furnace controls can also have an impact on efficiency. The blower control, located above the heat exchanger, turns on the blower when it senses heat from the burner. The fan-on temperature should be set so the blower comes on between 90°F and 105°F; if it’s set too high, the burner will fire for a long time before the fan comes on, letting excess heat go up the chimney. If it’s set too low, the circulating air may feel uncomfortably cool.</p><p> </p><p>The fan-off temperature must be slightly lower than the fan-on temperature: between 85°F and 100°F. The lower it is set, the longer the fan will run at the end of the cycle when the thermostat turns off the burners, moving residual heat from the heat exchanger to your house. If your fan-on and fan-off temperatures are fixed (rather than adjustable) and set too high, the control can be replaced. Note that the temperature markings on adjustable controls are often poorly calibrated. Verify the actual fan-on and fan-off temperatures with a thermometer in the supply plenum.</p>		\n			<h1>Heat Pumps</h1>		\n		Air-source heat pumps, popular in some parts of the country, are basically air conditioners that can work in reverse to deliver heat into the house in winter. Heat pumps provide heating and cooling in one machine, with one duct system and no combustion. Heat pumps are not subject to backdrafting, combustion air requirements, or some of the offcycle losses to which furnaces are prone. Because they use ducts to deliver warm air to the house, heat pump ducts in attics, garages, and crawlspaces must be sealed thoroughly and insulated well. Heat pumps are more prone to airflow problems than furnaces are, and improper refrigerant charging can have a negative impact on both heating and cooling efficiency. 		\n			<p>Operating efficiency and resistance heating</p>		\n		Heat pumps are rated using Heating System Performance Factor, or HSPF. An HSPF of 6.8 corresponds to an efficiency of 200 percent. Most new heat pumps vary from 7.3 to about 10 HSPF; the larger the number, the more efficient the unit. An HSPF of 10 is approximately equal to 290-percent efficient—for every kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity you buy, you get almost 3 kWh of heat delivered to your house. How can a heat pump generate more energy than it consumes? The difference is made up by heat energy absorbed from the outdoor air. That energy goes into the system; because it’s free, it’s not counted in the measurement of efficiency. Most heat pumps, by themselves, operate at reasonable efficiencies until outside air temperatures drop to about 35°F to 40°F. As the outdoor air gets colder, less heat is available, and the heat pump output drops off, even as the house needs more heat. So cold-weather performance is typically supplemented with electric-resistance backup heaters. This auxiliary heat costs about three times more per unit of heat than the compressor heating cycle. That may be fine in regions with long summers, mild winters, and relatively low electric rates, but it’s not in much of the North, where electricity is expensive and winters are cold. One fairly inexpensive way to reduce the use of electric-resistance heating is to install an outdoor cutout thermostat. For about $100 to $150 installed, this device locks out the supplemental electric heat when the outdoor air temperature is above 30°F or 35°F.		\n			<p>Airflow</p>		\n		Heat pumps are even more sensitive to airflow than furnaces are. Heat pumps need to move a larger volume of air, but installers who are used to working with furnaces sometimes skimp on duct sizing, leading to low-airflow problems. Unfortunately, checking the airflow of a heat pump is not as easy as checking that of a furnace. It can be done with special instruments or with a version of the temperature-rise method used with the electric-resistance backup heat. Don’t attempt to take these measurements unless you understand exactly what you are doing—if you aren’t sure, get a service technician to do it for you. For best efficiency, heat pump airflow should be 375 CFM to 425 CFM per ton of heating capacity. It should never be below 300 CFM per ton. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour, and equipment is typically rated in increments of 1⁄2 ton, such as “24” (×1,000 Btu, or 2 tons), “30” (21⁄2 tons), “36” (3 tons), etc.		\n			<p>Refrigerant charge</p>		\n		Older heat pumps are also finicky about refrigerant charge. Many heat pumps, even when serviced regularly, are either over- or undercharged, which has a negative impact on efficiency. Unfortunately, many service technicians don’t take the time to diagnose or correct those problems; they typically get the system working and move on to the next service call. To measure charge correctly, airflow must be in the recommended range, and few technicians test airflow as a matter of course. There are very specific ways to measure refrigerant charge during unit operation. Depending on the type of unit, the superheat or subcooling must be measured carefully, as it is for an air conditioner. There are also several automated systems on the market today that trained technicians can use to analyze heat pump operation. Newer high-efficiency models should also be properly charged, but they are more forgiving of varying charge conditions and their efficiency doesn’t suffer as much.		\n			<p>Heat pump service</p>		\n		Like furnaces, heat pumps should be serviced regularly. Basic service can be done by anyone. Air filters should be replaced once or twice a year, as needed, and the outdoor coil should be kept free of snow and debris. Regular service calls— typically every two to three years—should include testing the controls, cleaning the blower and both the indoor and the outdoor coils as needed, and checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines. To service your heat pump, try to find a contractor whose technicians are certified by North American Technician Excellence (NATE, see www.hvacradvice.com), or who demonstrates a commitment to attending manufacturers’ programs frequently. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing airflow problems, then carefully measuring and correcting refrigerant charge. Once that has been done, service technicians generally should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless the system performance drops off or there is other evidence that something is wrong. Refrigerant does not escape unless there is a leak.		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic4.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic4\" alt=\"Heating_Pic4\" />											\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heatin_Pic5.png\" title=\"Heatin_Pic5\" alt=\"Heatin_Pic5\" />											\n			<p>Ductless Heat Pumps</p>		\n		Ductless heat pumps, often called minisplit heat pumps, are available in higher heating (and cooling) efficiencies than just about any other heat pumps on the market. The most efficient ones use an inverter-driven compressor, and variable speed fans that run continuously at a low speed to match the load in the house and minimize noise. One outdoor unit may be used with one or more indoor units that deliver heat and cooling to the house. Each indoor unit connects to the outdoor unit with a small bundle of pipes and wires that carry refrigerant and electricity, so there are no duct losses. Some models are designed for cold climate operation and maintain a high heating capacity and decent efficiency near 0°F. A single mini-split makes a great heating and cooling system for a single-room addition or a deep energy remodel, or to offset electric resistance, oil, or LP gas heat.		\n			<p>Ground-source heat pumps</p>		\n		Ground-source heat pumps (or GSHPs; often called geothermal heat pumps) extract heat from the earth or from underground water, rather than from outdoor air. Because temperatures are more stable underground, GSHP systems theoretically have much higher heating efficiencies than air-source heat pumps; rated Coefficient of Performance (COPs) range from about 3 to 5 (300 percent to 500 percent). There are two basic types of GSHP systems. Closed-loop (ground-loop) systems are usually more efficient but can be more expensive to install. Open-loop (groundwater or water source) systems usually cost less to install but can cost more to run, due to the power consumption of a large well pump that’s often required for these systems. A third type of GSHP, called direct exchange (DX), uses a copper pipe ground loop to circulate refrigerant underground. Their long-term reliability is less clear than that of closed loop water-based systems. Like air-source heat pumps, ground-source heat pumps can be cost-effective in regions with mild or hot climates and moderate electric rates, especially in areas where installation costs are modest. However, in regions with cold climates and high electric rates, they generally do not provide enough savings to justify the high installation cost. Ground-source heat pumps can also have very high cooling efficiencies. The heating capacity of GSHPs is much better in cold weather than that of conventional air-source heat pumps, so there is typically little or no need for supplemental electric heat. Closed-loop systems need little or no maintenance, but open-loop systems may have water-quality issues, filters that need replacing, and well pumps with shortened life expectancies.		\n			<p>Ground-Source Heat Pump Efficiency</p>		\n		Efficiency ratings for GSHPs come in three flavors: water loop, ground loop, and ground water. “Water loop” is used for commercial systems; “ground loop” is used for closed loops; and “ground water” for open loops. All of them rate the heating efficiency using a Coefficient of Performance, which is the ratio of heat out to electricity in: A COP of 3 represents a heating efficiency of 300 percent. There’s a trick to the GSHP performance ratings: You can’t achieve them in a real installation. The rating applies only to “the box” itself and does not include most of the energy required to pump water or move air through the system. Depending on the installation, this can increase real operating costs between 20 percent and 100 percent (bringing a rated COP of 5 down to somewhere between 4 and 2.5). Despite marketing claims that GSHPs are “renewable” and “green,” they still run on electricity. Because electric generation and power lines are inefficient, a GSHP may actually be more expensive to run and generate more emissions than a high-efficiency natural gas furnace and AC system. GSHPs are, however, typically cheaper and cleaner than oil or LP gas heat. They are also quite expensive to install; my preference is to invest in a more efficient building enclosure.		\n			<h1>Electric-Resistance Heat</h1>		\n		Most electric-resistance heating systems are simple electric baseboard heaters. There are also various types of radiant-heat systems (usually panels mounted on ceiling or walls, built into valances, or built into ceiling or wall-finish systems). Cheap to install but expensive to operate, electric-resistance heat operates on the same principle as that of a toaster or hot plate. An electric current passes through a wire element, heating it. Air passes through and is heated by fins in the baseboard. Electric-resistance heat is always 100-percent efficient; every kilowatt-hour of electricity that you pay for is converted to heat. The reason electric baseboards are expensive to operate is that electricity costs two to four times as much as natural gas. One advantage of electric heat is the ease with which rooms can be zoned. But with the high fuel cost and hidden emissions, it’s difficult to justify except in special situations, such as isolated rooms, or extremely mild climates like southern Florida or Hawaii. Because these systems are so simple, there is very little that can be done to improve their efficiency. Short of supplementing or completely replacing them, the best approach (as always) is to insulate and thoroughly seal the building to reduce heating loads.		\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic6.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic6\" alt=\"Heating_Pic6\" />											<figcaption>An electric baseboard heater is its own distribution system and is usually precisely in the area where heat is desired, so there are no distribution losses like those found in ductwork.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Supplementing Electric Heat</p>		\n		<p>A great way to reduce the cost of electric, LP or oil heat for a reasonable cost is with the installation of a variable speed ductless heat pump. The best systems are rated with an HSPF of 10 to 12, which means they use 65 percent to 70 percent less electricity per unit of delivered heat. Installing a single mini-split to heat a main living area can save 30 percent to 50 percent of a home’s heating bill (leaving the existing heat for remote rooms in cold weather), at an installed cost of $3,000 to $4,000. Ductless heat pumps also provide air-conditioning much more efficiently than do window units.</p>		\n			<h1>Hot-Water and Steam Boilers</h1>		\n		Boilers, an old standby in the Northeast, are becoming more popular around the country with the advent of radiant, hydro-air, and hybrid systems. Instead of heating air, a boiler heats water. The classic boiler system uses hydronic distribution. Water is heated by the boiler and pumped through pipes to hot-water radiators or baseboard fin-tube convectors to heat the house. Some older systems use a boiler to make steam, which expands to fill steam radiators without the need for a circulator pump. 		\n			<p>Basic maintenance</p>		\n		Boiler maintenance is similar to that of a gas or oil furnace, but there is no blower fan to clean. Oil boilers should be serviced once a year, whereas gas boilers should be serviced every two to four years. Any swishing or gurgling sounds that you hear in the radiators indicate air trapped in the system, which reduces heat-exchange efficiency. A service technician can bleed out the air and show you how to do it if it is needed frequently. Occasionally, bleed valves may need to be installed or replaced. The technician should check the hydronic system pressure and expansion tank; the smallest leak anywhere in the system should be repaired immediately to prevent corrosion-causing oxygen from being brought in via makeup water connections.		\n			<p>Boiler controls and upgrades</p>		\n		A typical hot-water boiler operates throughout the winter with a water temperature determined by the low-limit setting, a thermostatic switch that senses the water temperature inside the boiler and shuts off the burner when the water is hot enough. Standard boiler controls maintain full boiler temperature throughout the year, which is inefficient but necessary if a tankless coil water heater heats the domestic hot water. In the absence of a tankless coil, efficient boiler controls have a “cold start” feature that heats the boiler water only when it’s needed, and a “purge” control that runs the circulating pump for a few minutes after the boiler shuts off, to extract any heat that remains inside. These controls, often standard or optional on new, high-efficiency models, can also be retrofitted to existing boilers—but you have to be careful. Cold-start boilers must be protected from condensing on start-up, which may take some extra piping and a thermic valve (made by DanfossR or Termovar) to maintain adequate return-water temperature. Many newer boilers designed for cold starting have this protection built in.\nAnother improvement for older boilers that don’t have good controls is a mechanical vent damper. This device closes off the flue pipe after the burner shuts off, stopping the flow of heat through the heat exchanger and up the chimney. It costs $125 to $350 installed. Don’t use a gravity-actuated vent damper that depends on the heat from the burner to stay open; they are much more likely to malfunction.\n			<p>Steam boilers</p>		\n		Steam boilers are very different from hot water boilers. Steam systems were popular in the early 20th century, and many of them are still in service in older homes. Instead of relying on pumps to circulate hot water, steam boilers boil water to create steam. The steam naturally expands to fill all the pipes and radiators in the system, distributing heat throughout the house. Although steam-heat distribution is simple and reliable, steam boilers have a number of unique maintenance and efficiency issues. Most residential steam systems are one-pipe systems. When the thermostat calls for heat, the boiler fires and steam begins expanding to fill the system. As the steam expands, it displaces air contained in the pipes and radiators, and that air must be allowed to escape through air vents typically located on the side of each radiator. Once the steam reaches the radiator, the air vent senses the heat and closes, keeping the steam inside. As the steam emits heat through the radiator, it condenses to water and flows back via gravity through the same pipes to the boiler.\nAir-venting systems that aren’t working properly can lead to uneven heating, large temperature fluctuations, and discomfort. A tune-up can increase energy efficiency and comfort dramatically. If the air vents are too small, if there are not enough of them, or if they are clogged with mineral deposits, air gets trapped in the system, and the steam cannot reach its destination. Having a professional replace malfunctioning air vents, add extra vents to radiators, or add special high-volume air vents to large central supply pipes can improve steam-system efficiency by quickly getting the heat where it is needed. Thermostatically controlled vents can reduce the rate of steam delivery to some rooms, reducing overheating and improving overall comfort.\nA common problem with steam systems is too much pressure. The boiler pressure controls should be set just high enough so that the boiler shuts down just as each radiator fills with steam. Too much steam pressure increases the boiler’s cycling losses and leads to overheating. That can particularly be a problem if the building envelope’s efficiency is improved dramatically and/or some radiators are removed during remodeling. Timed-cycle controllers vary the boiler cycle length to match the outdoor temperature, further improving the system’s efficiency.\n			<h1>Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment</h1>		\n		Replacing a heating system with a newer, more efficient system is expensive, so it will typically have a long payback. However, if you have to replace a broken furnace or boiler, it is almost always cost-effective to select a high-efficiency system. However efficient (or inefficient) a house shell is, replacing a furnace from the mid-1980s or earlier with a 95-percent-efficient unit will save between 20 percent and 25 percent of the heating bill. Replacing an old boiler can save even more. On the other hand, if you have a 15-year-old unit that’s rated between 80-percent and 85-percent efficient, the savings will be much smaller. It’s probably better to spend your money on other efficiency projects. Finally, if you are planning a series of efficiency improvements to the house, it can be a good idea to complete them before upgrading equipment—you may be able to save some money by installing a smaller unit. If your existing heating system is functional but appears to be on its last legs, replacing it early can help avoid a big surprise. Deciding, rather than being forced, to replace a system reduces the panic factor and allows for a more reasoned choice. It may even reduce the cost a bit, because it won’t be an emergency call.		\n			<p>Efficiency ratings</p>		\n		<p>All new boilers and furnaces have standardized efficiency ratings, just like the gas-mileage ratings on automobiles. When selecting equipment, look for the highest efficiency ratings. Furnaces and boilers use Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE), which accounts for burner efficiency, pilot fuel, and off-cycle losses. New gas furnaces and boilers have AFUEs of 80 per-cent to 97 percent. AFUE ratings are available from manufacturers or at <a href=\"http://www.ahridirectory.org\">www.ahridirectory.org</a>. Air-source heat pumps are rated using HSPF; GSHPs are rated using COP. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and Department of Energy (DOE) maintain a listing of high-efficiency equipment on their Energy Star website (<a href=\"http://www.energystar.gov/\">www.energystar.gov/</a> products); always look for the Energy Star label, which indicates that the equipment meets certain above-minimum efficiency standards set by the government. Remember that the ratings apply to only the equipment. Installation problems, improper maintenance, and distribution problems (such as duct leakage) can reduce performance dramatically. Also remember that there are many products that exceed the Energy Star minimum standards; it’s still worth shopping for the highest-efficiency unit you can find.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic7.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic7\" alt=\"Heating_Pic7\" />											<figcaption>The yellow Energy Guide label indicates the efficiency rating of new equipment and provides a comparison among similar models.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Heating','','inherit','closed','closed','','2075-revision-v1','','','2018-07-24 14:59:21','2018-07-24 14:59:21','',2075,'http://ee.ene.org/2075-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2091,4,'2018-07-24 15:00:05','2018-07-24 15:00:05','Heating and Cooling Systems\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor01\">Efficiency Losses in a Heating System</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor02\">Duct Sealing</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor03\">Furnaces</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor04\">Heat Pumps</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor05\">Electric-Resistance Heat</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor05\">Hot-Water and Steam Boilers</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor05\">Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment</a>\r\n<h1>Efficiency Losses in a Heating System</h1>\r\nNot all the energy in the fuel you buy contributes to heating your house. Your heating system’s efficiency is the amount of useful heat you get as a percentage of purchased energy. Anything less than 100 percent represents waste, or lost efficiency. There are three kinds of heating system losses: combustion loss, cycling loss, and distribution loss. Combustion loss is simply the heat that goes up the chimney; it varies from about 30 percent to as little as 3 percent. That leaves a combustion efficiency between 70 percent and 97 percent; that is, the percentage of the fuel you buy that is converted to heat in the equipment. Combustion efficiency is mostly affected by equipment design; unless the burners are badly out of tune, it can’t be improved much unless you buy a new unit.\r\nCycling losses occur when the heating equipment starts and stops. Each time the unit shuts off, some heat remains inside; some of that heat goes up the chimney. Cycling losses are affected by the equipment design, location, and controls; some efficiency improvements can be made if the controls are set poorly to begin with. Distribution losses occur when heat generated in the equipment gets out of the house before it reaches its destination. Distribution losses include duct air leaks and conductive losses through uninsulated ducts or pipes. Distribution losses can be significant: 5 percent to 30 percent, so in many homes a large improvement can be made.\r\n\r\nComfort and energy use\r\n\r\nAnother fairly simple factor that affects heating-system performance is system balancing. Balancing refers to the temperature consistency from one room to the next. If one or more rooms are consistently too cold, people tend to set the thermostat high enough to be comfortable in those rooms. The rest of the house then overheats, using more energy. Balancing problems can be caused by thermal defects in the building, by problems in the distribution system, or by the thermostat location. Rooms that have air leaks, drafts, or missing insulation may lose heat faster than neighboring rooms, or they may just be uncomfortable. Thermal problems should be fixed before addressing the heating system. Once the building enclosure is properly treated, the distribution system can usually be adjusted for better balance.\r\n<h1>Duct-Sealing</h1>\r\nAir leaks in a duct system can have an enormous effect on your house. Duct leaks rob a furnace, heat pump, or central air system of energy— sometimes close to half. Leaks can cause comfort problems, drive moisture flows, and sometimes even lead to dangerous back drafting of combustion equipment. Leaky basement ducts don’t usually waste much energy; sealing them is pretty easy, but there’s not much value to it. But ducts located in attics, garages, or vented crawlspaces can be a big energy problem. Sealing them can be the biggest opportunity for energy savings in many homes. Leaky ducts do more than let heat out. They also increase the air exchange in a house by 30 percent to 300 percent whenever the air handler is running. That is why furnaces have the reputation for drying out houses. Return leaks in a mechanical room or basement can backdraft a nearby water heater or even the furnace itself. Return leaks can also draw in radon gas, water vapor, subsoil pesticides, or airborne mold spores, distributing them throughout the house.\r\n\r\nSupply air leaking into an attic or enclosed cathedral ceiling cavity can deliver moisture at an accelerated rate to cold roof sheathing, causing condensation. If the ducts also carry central air-conditioning, return leaks can bring in outdoor humidity in the summer, reducing cooling efficiency, and leaks can draw outside air into building cavities, where moisture can lead to mold inside the house. Duct leaks are even more important than shell air leaks: Each hole and crack is under pressure from the furnace fan and leaks the hot air from your furnace (or cold air from your air conditioner).\r\n<figure><img title=\"Heating_Pic1\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic1.png\" alt=\"Heating_Pic1\" /><figcaption>It’s important to peel back the insulation and vapor jacket to seal the duct connections. The black stains are from the air leaks.</figcaption></figure>\r\nReturn ducts can be a bigger challenge. Return systems are frequently patched together using a combination of plywood, sheet metal, joist or wall cavities, and a lot of wishful thinking. Many HVAC installers don’t pay much attention to returns, focusing mostly on supplies that get the air to where it’s supposed to go. But well-sealed returns are important for furnace efficiency, occupant health and safety, and building durability. Fortunately, it’s not typically necessary to seal ducts that are buried inside interior wall and floor cavities. However, you do want to ensure that those cavities don’t leak to outside spaces; if they do, seal those leaks at the thermal boundary to keep the ducts and the indoor air inside.\r\n\r\nDuct insulation\r\n\r\nDuctwork that runs through unconditioned space should be insulated, if it is not already. Typically, supply ducts are insulated but often have weak spots at register boots and other major connections. Often, return ductwork is left uninsulated.\r\n\r\nDucts should be insulated with vinyl-faced fiberglass wrap; R-6 is the minimum allowed by current residential codes; R-8 is required for supply ducts in attics. If possible, attic ducts should have higher R-values. Think about it: In winter, attic temperatures are nearly as cold as outdoors; in summer (for air-conditioning ducts), they are often much hotter than outdoors. If the ducts are close to the attic floor, cover them completely with loose-fill insulation. If that is not possible, try to find R-10 or higher duct wrap. Of course, seal all the duct connections tightly before insulating.\r\n<h1>Furnaces</h1>\r\nThe furnace is by far the most common type of heating system in the country. In fact, it’s so common that many people use the word furnace to describe any type of heating equipment. Furnaces create heat by burning fuel, usually natural gas. Oil and liquefied petroleum (LP, or propane) gas are also used in areas where piped gas is unavailable. By contrast, heat pumps and electric furnaces use electricity to heat the air; they also use a duct system to deliver heat, but they are not furnaces and do not have a fuel supply, chimney, or vent pipe. Boilers burn gas or oil but create hot water or steam instead of warm air. Furnace efficiency can be improved by performing regular maintenance, improving airflow, adjusting control settings, and sealing leaky ductwork.\r\n<img title=\"Heating_Pic2\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic2.jpg\" alt=\"Heating_Pic2\" />\r\n\r\nRegular maintenance\r\n\r\nRegular furnace maintenance is important to keep things running well, just as with any machine, but tune-ups and filter replacements don’t really save energy. Be sure to change the filter once or twice a year; more frequently is not much benefit because filters actually work better once some dust has built up on them. If the filter never gets dirty, however, then you may have a duct leak that is causing a loss of efficiency. Keeping registers open and free of obstructions may help your comfort, but this also won’t affect your energy bills noticeably.\r\n\r\nIf you have a gas furnace, you should have it cleaned and tuned every two to four years. An oil burner should be tuned every year. Don’t wait until cold weather hits—that’s when the service companies are busy. You may get a better price if you get the tune-up in the spring.\r\n<figure><img title=\"Heating_Pic3\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic3.png\" alt=\"Heating_Pic3\" /><figcaption>Air filters should be replaced occasionally for best furnace performance. This pleated filter is more effective than the standard cheap fiberglass filter, and it doesn’t cost much more.</figcaption></figure>\r\nLow airflow\r\n\r\nLow airflow can also reduce furnace efficiency. It can be caused by clogged air-conditioning coils, low fan speed settings, loose fan drive belts, undersized ductwork, or duct obstructions. Sometimes airflow is low to one room or section of the house, causing discomfort. Diagnosing low airflow is complex, but once identified, the fixes are usually fairly easy and inexpensive. These improvements are probably better left to a professional, but it’s good to be informed, because many technicians don’t bother checking airflow. If a service person is unable to explain in sensible terms what is happening in your system, you may want to get an opinion from another technician.\r\n\r\nFurnace Tune-Up\r\n\r\nA professional tune-up for a gas furnace includes cleaning the burner and heat exchanger, checking the adjustment of air and fuel flow, cleaning and checking the heat exchanger for leaks, and testing draft pressure and carbon monoxide levels. The air-handler fan should be cleaned and lubricated as needed, once every two or three tune-ups. In addition, internal controls may be checked and adjusted if necessary. Don’t expect any real energy savings from a gas furnace tune-up; every two to four years is often enough. Oil burners are more finicky than gas burners. Most oil furnaces benefit from annual professional service; fuel filters, burner nozzles, electrodes, combustion chamber, heat exchanger, and flue pipe all need regular cleaning and adjustment. Checking heat exchangers and testing combustion efficiency are also useful. Try to find a technician who is knowledgeable, methodical, and thorough. If you have an oil furnace, the service technician might also recommend installing a smaller oil nozzle. This can reduce the heat output of the furnace, better matching it to the house and increasing operating efficiency slightly.\r\n\r\nFurnace control settings\r\n\r\nThe furnace controls can also have an impact on efficiency. The blower control, located above the heat exchanger, turns on the blower when it senses heat from the burner. The fan-on temperature should be set so the blower comes on between 90°F and 105°F; if it’s set too high, the burner will fire for a long time before the fan comes on, letting excess heat go up the chimney. If it’s set too low, the circulating air may feel uncomfortably cool.\r\n\r\nThe fan-off temperature must be slightly lower than the fan-on temperature: between 85°F and 100°F. The lower it is set, the longer the fan will run at the end of the cycle when the thermostat turns off the burners, moving residual heat from the heat exchanger to your house. If your fan-on and fan-off temperatures are fixed (rather than adjustable) and set too high, the control can be replaced. Note that the temperature markings on adjustable controls are often poorly calibrated. Verify the actual fan-on and fan-off temperatures with a thermometer in the supply plenum.\r\n<h1>Heat Pumps</h1>\r\nAir-source heat pumps, popular in some parts of the country, are basically air conditioners that can work in reverse to deliver heat into the house in winter. Heat pumps provide heating and cooling in one machine, with one duct system and no combustion. Heat pumps are not subject to backdrafting, combustion air requirements, or some of the offcycle losses to which furnaces are prone. Because they use ducts to deliver warm air to the house, heat pump ducts in attics, garages, and crawlspaces must be sealed thoroughly and insulated well. Heat pumps are more prone to airflow problems than furnaces are, and improper refrigerant charging can have a negative impact on both heating and cooling efficiency.\r\n\r\nOperating efficiency and resistance heating\r\n\r\nHeat pumps are rated using Heating System Performance Factor, or HSPF. An HSPF of 6.8 corresponds to an efficiency of 200 percent. Most new heat pumps vary from 7.3 to about 10 HSPF; the larger the number, the more efficient the unit. An HSPF of 10 is approximately equal to 290-percent efficient—for every kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity you buy, you get almost 3 kWh of heat delivered to your house. How can a heat pump generate more energy than it consumes? The difference is made up by heat energy absorbed from the outdoor air. That energy goes into the system; because it’s free, it’s not counted in the measurement of efficiency. Most heat pumps, by themselves, operate at reasonable efficiencies until outside air temperatures drop to about 35°F to 40°F. As the outdoor air gets colder, less heat is available, and the heat pump output drops off, even as the house needs more heat. So cold-weather performance is typically supplemented with electric-resistance backup heaters. This auxiliary heat costs about three times more per unit of heat than the compressor heating cycle. That may be fine in regions with long summers, mild winters, and relatively low electric rates, but it’s not in much of the North, where electricity is expensive and winters are cold. One fairly inexpensive way to reduce the use of electric-resistance heating is to install an outdoor cutout thermostat. For about $100 to $150 installed, this device locks out the supplemental electric heat when the outdoor air temperature is above 30°F or 35°F.\r\n\r\nAirflow\r\n\r\nHeat pumps are even more sensitive to airflow than furnaces are. Heat pumps need to move a larger volume of air, but installers who are used to working with furnaces sometimes skimp on duct sizing, leading to low-airflow problems. Unfortunately, checking the airflow of a heat pump is not as easy as checking that of a furnace. It can be done with special instruments or with a version of the temperature-rise method used with the electric-resistance backup heat. Don’t attempt to take these measurements unless you understand exactly what you are doing—if you aren’t sure, get a service technician to do it for you. For best efficiency, heat pump airflow should be 375 CFM to 425 CFM per ton of heating capacity. It should never be below 300 CFM per ton. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour, and equipment is typically rated in increments of 1⁄2 ton, such as “24” (×1,000 Btu, or 2 tons), “30” (21⁄2 tons), “36” (3 tons), etc.\r\n\r\nRefrigerant charge\r\n\r\nOlder heat pumps are also finicky about refrigerant charge. Many heat pumps, even when serviced regularly, are either over- or undercharged, which has a negative impact on efficiency. Unfortunately, many service technicians don’t take the time to diagnose or correct those problems; they typically get the system working and move on to the next service call. To measure charge correctly, airflow must be in the recommended range, and few technicians test airflow as a matter of course. There are very specific ways to measure refrigerant charge during unit operation. Depending on the type of unit, the superheat or subcooling must be measured carefully, as it is for an air conditioner. There are also several automated systems on the market today that trained technicians can use to analyze heat pump operation. Newer high-efficiency models should also be properly charged, but they are more forgiving of varying charge conditions and their efficiency doesn’t suffer as much.\r\n\r\nHeat pump service\r\n\r\nLike furnaces, heat pumps should be serviced regularly. Basic service can be done by anyone. Air filters should be replaced once or twice a year, as needed, and the outdoor coil should be kept free of snow and debris. Regular service calls— typically every two to three years—should include testing the controls, cleaning the blower and both the indoor and the outdoor coils as needed, and checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines. To service your heat pump, try to find a contractor whose technicians are certified by North American Technician Excellence (NATE, see www.hvacradvice.com), or who demonstrates a commitment to attending manufacturers’ programs frequently. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing airflow problems, then carefully measuring and correcting refrigerant charge. Once that has been done, service technicians generally should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless the system performance drops off or there is other evidence that something is wrong. Refrigerant does not escape unless there is a leak.\r\n<img title=\"Heating_Pic4\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic4.png\" alt=\"Heating_Pic4\" />\r\n<img title=\"Heatin_Pic5\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heatin_Pic5.png\" alt=\"Heatin_Pic5\" />\r\n\r\nDuctless Heat Pumps\r\n\r\nDuctless heat pumps, often called minisplit heat pumps, are available in higher heating (and cooling) efficiencies than just about any other heat pumps on the market. The most efficient ones use an inverter-driven compressor, and variable speed fans that run continuously at a low speed to match the load in the house and minimize noise. One outdoor unit may be used with one or more indoor units that deliver heat and cooling to the house. Each indoor unit connects to the outdoor unit with a small bundle of pipes and wires that carry refrigerant and electricity, so there are no duct losses. Some models are designed for cold climate operation and maintain a high heating capacity and decent efficiency near 0°F. A single mini-split makes a great heating and cooling system for a single-room addition or a deep energy remodel, or to offset electric resistance, oil, or LP gas heat.\r\n\r\nGround-source heat pumps\r\n\r\nGround-source heat pumps (or GSHPs; often called geothermal heat pumps) extract heat from the earth or from underground water, rather than from outdoor air. Because temperatures are more stable underground, GSHP systems theoretically have much higher heating efficiencies than air-source heat pumps; rated Coefficient of Performance (COPs) range from about 3 to 5 (300 percent to 500 percent). There are two basic types of GSHP systems. Closed-loop (ground-loop) systems are usually more efficient but can be more expensive to install. Open-loop (groundwater or water source) systems usually cost less to install but can cost more to run, due to the power consumption of a large well pump that’s often required for these systems. A third type of GSHP, called direct exchange (DX), uses a copper pipe ground loop to circulate refrigerant underground. Their long-term reliability is less clear than that of closed loop water-based systems. Like air-source heat pumps, ground-source heat pumps can be cost-effective in regions with mild or hot climates and moderate electric rates, especially in areas where installation costs are modest. However, in regions with cold climates and high electric rates, they generally do not provide enough savings to justify the high installation cost. Ground-source heat pumps can also have very high cooling efficiencies. The heating capacity of GSHPs is much better in cold weather than that of conventional air-source heat pumps, so there is typically little or no need for supplemental electric heat. Closed-loop systems need little or no maintenance, but open-loop systems may have water-quality issues, filters that need replacing, and well pumps with shortened life expectancies.\r\n\r\nGround-Source Heat Pump Efficiency\r\n\r\nEfficiency ratings for GSHPs come in three flavors: water loop, ground loop, and ground water. “Water loop” is used for commercial systems; “ground loop” is used for closed loops; and “ground water” for open loops. All of them rate the heating efficiency using a Coefficient of Performance, which is the ratio of heat out to electricity in: A COP of 3 represents a heating efficiency of 300 percent. There’s a trick to the GSHP performance ratings: You can’t achieve them in a real installation. The rating applies only to “the box” itself and does not include most of the energy required to pump water or move air through the system. Depending on the installation, this can increase real operating costs between 20 percent and 100 percent (bringing a rated COP of 5 down to somewhere between 4 and 2.5). Despite marketing claims that GSHPs are “renewable” and “green,” they still run on electricity. Because electric generation and power lines are inefficient, a GSHP may actually be more expensive to run and generate more emissions than a high-efficiency natural gas furnace and AC system. GSHPs are, however, typically cheaper and cleaner than oil or LP gas heat. They are also quite expensive to install; my preference is to invest in a more efficient building enclosure.\r\n<h1>Electric-Resistance Heat</h1>\r\nMost electric-resistance heating systems are simple electric baseboard heaters. There are also various types of radiant-heat systems (usually panels mounted on ceiling or walls, built into valances, or built into ceiling or wall-finish systems). Cheap to install but expensive to operate, electric-resistance heat operates on the same principle as that of a toaster or hot plate. An electric current passes through a wire element, heating it. Air passes through and is heated by fins in the baseboard. Electric-resistance heat is always 100-percent efficient; every kilowatt-hour of electricity that you pay for is converted to heat. The reason electric baseboards are expensive to operate is that electricity costs two to four times as much as natural gas. One advantage of electric heat is the ease with which rooms can be zoned. But with the high fuel cost and hidden emissions, it’s difficult to justify except in special situations, such as isolated rooms, or extremely mild climates like southern Florida or Hawaii. Because these systems are so simple, there is very little that can be done to improve their efficiency. Short of supplementing or completely replacing them, the best approach (as always) is to insulate and thoroughly seal the building to reduce heating loads.\r\n<figure><img title=\"Heating_Pic6\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic6.png\" alt=\"Heating_Pic6\" /><figcaption>An electric baseboard heater is its own distribution system and is usually precisely in the area where heat is desired, so there are no distribution losses like those found in ductwork.</figcaption></figure>\r\nSupplementing Electric Heat\r\n\r\nA great way to reduce the cost of electric, LP or oil heat for a reasonable cost is with the installation of a variable speed ductless heat pump. The best systems are rated with an HSPF of 10 to 12, which means they use 65 percent to 70 percent less electricity per unit of delivered heat. Installing a single mini-split to heat a main living area can save 30 percent to 50 percent of a home’s heating bill (leaving the existing heat for remote rooms in cold weather), at an installed cost of $3,000 to $4,000. Ductless heat pumps also provide air-conditioning much more efficiently than do window units.\r\n<h1>Hot-Water and Steam Boilers</h1>\r\nBoilers, an old standby in the Northeast, are becoming more popular around the country with the advent of radiant, hydro-air, and hybrid systems. Instead of heating air, a boiler heats water. The classic boiler system uses hydronic distribution. Water is heated by the boiler and pumped through pipes to hot-water radiators or baseboard fin-tube convectors to heat the house. Some older systems use a boiler to make steam, which expands to fill steam radiators without the need for a circulator pump.\r\n\r\nBasic maintenance\r\n\r\nBoiler maintenance is similar to that of a gas or oil furnace, but there is no blower fan to clean. Oil boilers should be serviced once a year, whereas gas boilers should be serviced every two to four years. Any swishing or gurgling sounds that you hear in the radiators indicate air trapped in the system, which reduces heat-exchange efficiency. A service technician can bleed out the air and show you how to do it if it is needed frequently. Occasionally, bleed valves may need to be installed or replaced. The technician should check the hydronic system pressure and expansion tank; the smallest leak anywhere in the system should be repaired immediately to prevent corrosion-causing oxygen from being brought in via makeup water connections.\r\n\r\nBoiler controls and upgrades\r\n\r\nA typical hot-water boiler operates throughout the winter with a water temperature determined by the low-limit setting, a thermostatic switch that senses the water temperature inside the boiler and shuts off the burner when the water is hot enough. Standard boiler controls maintain full boiler temperature throughout the year, which is inefficient but necessary if a tankless coil water heater heats the domestic hot water. In the absence of a tankless coil, efficient boiler controls have a “cold start” feature that heats the boiler water only when it’s needed, and a “purge” control that runs the circulating pump for a few minutes after the boiler shuts off, to extract any heat that remains inside. These controls, often standard or optional on new, high-efficiency models, can also be retrofitted to existing boilers—but you have to be careful. Cold-start boilers must be protected from condensing on start-up, which may take some extra piping and a thermic valve (made by DanfossR or Termovar) to maintain adequate return-water temperature. Many newer boilers designed for cold starting have this protection built in.\r\nAnother improvement for older boilers that don’t have good controls is a mechanical vent damper. This device closes off the flue pipe after the burner shuts off, stopping the flow of heat through the heat exchanger and up the chimney. It costs $125 to $350 installed. Don’t use a gravity-actuated vent damper that depends on the heat from the burner to stay open; they are much more likely to malfunction.\r\n\r\nSteam boilers\r\n\r\nSteam boilers are very different from hot water boilers. Steam systems were popular in the early 20th century, and many of them are still in service in older homes. Instead of relying on pumps to circulate hot water, steam boilers boil water to create steam. The steam naturally expands to fill all the pipes and radiators in the system, distributing heat throughout the house. Although steam-heat distribution is simple and reliable, steam boilers have a number of unique maintenance and efficiency issues. Most residential steam systems are one-pipe systems. When the thermostat calls for heat, the boiler fires and steam begins expanding to fill the system. As the steam expands, it displaces air contained in the pipes and radiators, and that air must be allowed to escape through air vents typically located on the side of each radiator. Once the steam reaches the radiator, the air vent senses the heat and closes, keeping the steam inside. As the steam emits heat through the radiator, it condenses to water and flows back via gravity through the same pipes to the boiler.\r\nAir-venting systems that aren’t working properly can lead to uneven heating, large temperature fluctuations, and discomfort. A tune-up can increase energy efficiency and comfort dramatically. If the air vents are too small, if there are not enough of them, or if they are clogged with mineral deposits, air gets trapped in the system, and the steam cannot reach its destination. Having a professional replace malfunctioning air vents, add extra vents to radiators, or add special high-volume air vents to large central supply pipes can improve steam-system efficiency by quickly getting the heat where it is needed. Thermostatically controlled vents can reduce the rate of steam delivery to some rooms, reducing overheating and improving overall comfort.\r\nA common problem with steam systems is too much pressure. The boiler pressure controls should be set just high enough so that the boiler shuts down just as each radiator fills with steam. Too much steam pressure increases the boiler’s cycling losses and leads to overheating. That can particularly be a problem if the building envelope’s efficiency is improved dramatically and/or some radiators are removed during remodeling. Timed-cycle controllers vary the boiler cycle length to match the outdoor temperature, further improving the system’s efficiency.\r\n<h1>Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment</h1>\r\nReplacing a heating system with a newer, more efficient system is expensive, so it will typically have a long payback. However, if you have to replace a broken furnace or boiler, it is almost always cost-effective to select a high-efficiency system. However efficient (or inefficient) a house shell is, replacing a furnace from the mid-1980s or earlier with a 95-percent-efficient unit will save between 20 percent and 25 percent of the heating bill. Replacing an old boiler can save even more. On the other hand, if you have a 15-year-old unit that’s rated between 80-percent and 85-percent efficient, the savings will be much smaller. It’s probably better to spend your money on other efficiency projects. Finally, if you are planning a series of efficiency improvements to the house, it can be a good idea to complete them before upgrading equipment—you may be able to save some money by installing a smaller unit. If your existing heating system is functional but appears to be on its last legs, replacing it early can help avoid a big surprise. Deciding, rather than being forced, to replace a system reduces the panic factor and allows for a more reasoned choice. It may even reduce the cost a bit, because it won’t be an emergency call.\r\n\r\nEfficiency ratings\r\n\r\nAll new boilers and furnaces have standardized efficiency ratings, just like the gas-mileage ratings on automobiles. When selecting equipment, look for the highest efficiency ratings. Furnaces and boilers use Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE), which accounts for burner efficiency, pilot fuel, and off-cycle losses. New gas furnaces and boilers have AFUEs of 80 per-cent to 97 percent. AFUE ratings are available from manufacturers or at <a href=\"http://www.ahridirectory.org\">www.ahridirectory.org</a>. Air-source heat pumps are rated using HSPF; GSHPs are rated using COP. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and Department of Energy (DOE) maintain a listing of high-efficiency equipment on their Energy Star website (<a href=\"http://www.energystar.gov/\">www.energystar.gov/</a> products); always look for the Energy Star label, which indicates that the equipment meets certain above-minimum efficiency standards set by the government. Remember that the ratings apply to only the equipment. Installation problems, improper maintenance, and distribution problems (such as duct leakage) can reduce performance dramatically. Also remember that there are many products that exceed the Energy Star minimum standards; it’s still worth shopping for the highest-efficiency unit you can find.\r\n<figure><img title=\"Heating_Pic7\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic7.png\" alt=\"Heating_Pic7\" /><figcaption>The yellow Energy Guide label indicates the efficiency rating of new equipment and provides a comparison among similar models.</figcaption></figure>\r\n<h4>Energy New England</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li>100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 Foxborough, MA 02035</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-1200</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-0222</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">\r\nsolutions@ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ene.org/\">\r\nwww.ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>Website</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\"> Home\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\"> Energy Assessment\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\"> Recommendations\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\"> Town We Serve\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\"> Home Advisor\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"#\"> Shop\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\"> Contact\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>social media</h4>\r\n<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\r\nLinkedin\r\n</a>','Heating and Cooling Systems','','inherit','closed','closed','','2075-revision-v1','','','2018-07-24 15:00:05','2018-07-24 15:00:05','',2075,'http://ee.ene.org/2075-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2092,4,'2018-07-24 15:06:33','2018-07-24 15:06:33','Heating and Cooling Systems\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor01\">Efficiency Losses in a Heating System</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor02\">Duct Sealing</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor03\">Furnaces</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor04\">Heat Pumps</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor05\">Electric-Resistance Heat</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor05\">Hot-Water and Steam Boilers</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor05\">Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment</a>\r\n<h1>Efficiency Losses in a Heating System</h1>\r\nNot all the energy in the fuel you buy contributes to heating your house. Your heating system’s efficiency is the amount of useful heat you get as a percentage of purchased energy. Anything less than 100 percent represents waste, or lost efficiency. There are three kinds of heating system losses: combustion loss, cycling loss, and distribution loss. Combustion loss is simply the heat that goes up the chimney; it varies from about 30 percent to as little as 3 percent. That leaves a combustion efficiency between 70 percent and 97 percent; that is, the percentage of the fuel you buy that is converted to heat in the equipment. Combustion efficiency is mostly affected by equipment design; unless the burners are badly out of tune, it can’t be improved much unless you buy a new unit.\r\nCycling losses occur when the heating equipment starts and stops. Each time the unit shuts off, some heat remains inside; some of that heat goes up the chimney. Cycling losses are affected by the equipment design, location, and controls; some efficiency improvements can be made if the controls are set poorly to begin with. Distribution losses occur when heat generated in the equipment gets out of the house before it reaches its destination. Distribution losses include duct air leaks and conductive losses through uninsulated ducts or pipes. Distribution losses can be significant: 5 percent to 30 percent, so in many homes a large improvement can be made.\r\n\r\nComfort and energy use\r\n\r\nAnother fairly simple factor that affects heating-system performance is system balancing. Balancing refers to the temperature consistency from one room to the next. If one or more rooms are consistently too cold, people tend to set the thermostat high enough to be comfortable in those rooms. The rest of the house then overheats, using more energy. Balancing problems can be caused by thermal defects in the building, by problems in the distribution system, or by the thermostat location. Rooms that have air leaks, drafts, or missing insulation may lose heat faster than neighboring rooms, or they may just be uncomfortable. Thermal problems should be fixed before addressing the heating system. Once the building enclosure is properly treated, the distribution system can usually be adjusted for better balance.\r\n<h1>Duct-Sealing</h1>\r\nAir leaks in a duct system can have an enormous effect on your house. Duct leaks rob a furnace, heat pump, or central air system of energy— sometimes close to half. Leaks can cause comfort problems, drive moisture flows, and sometimes even lead to dangerous back drafting of combustion equipment. Leaky basement ducts don’t usually waste much energy; sealing them is pretty easy, but there’s not much value to it. But ducts located in attics, garages, or vented crawlspaces can be a big energy problem. Sealing them can be the biggest opportunity for energy savings in many homes. Leaky ducts do more than let heat out. They also increase the air exchange in a house by 30 percent to 300 percent whenever the air handler is running. That is why furnaces have the reputation for drying out houses. Return leaks in a mechanical room or basement can backdraft a nearby water heater or even the furnace itself. Return leaks can also draw in radon gas, water vapor, subsoil pesticides, or airborne mold spores, distributing them throughout the house.\r\n\r\nSupply air leaking into an attic or enclosed cathedral ceiling cavity can deliver moisture at an accelerated rate to cold roof sheathing, causing condensation. If the ducts also carry central air-conditioning, return leaks can bring in outdoor humidity in the summer, reducing cooling efficiency, and leaks can draw outside air into building cavities, where moisture can lead to mold inside the house. Duct leaks are even more important than shell air leaks: Each hole and crack is under pressure from the furnace fan and leaks the hot air from your furnace (or cold air from your air conditioner).\r\n<figure><img title=\"Heating_Pic1\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic1.png\" alt=\"Heating_Pic1\" /><figcaption>It’s important to peel back the insulation and vapor jacket to seal the duct connections. The black stains are from the air leaks.</figcaption></figure>\r\nReturn ducts can be a bigger challenge. Return systems are frequently patched together using a combination of plywood, sheet metal, joist or wall cavities, and a lot of wishful thinking. Many HVAC installers don’t pay much attention to returns, focusing mostly on supplies that get the air to where it’s supposed to go. But well-sealed returns are important for furnace efficiency, occupant health and safety, and building durability. Fortunately, it’s not typically necessary to seal ducts that are buried inside interior wall and floor cavities. However, you do want to ensure that those cavities don’t leak to outside spaces; if they do, seal those leaks at the thermal boundary to keep the ducts and the indoor air inside.\r\n\r\nDuct insulation\r\n\r\nDuctwork that runs through unconditioned space should be insulated, if it is not already. Typically, supply ducts are insulated but often have weak spots at register boots and other major connections. Often, return ductwork is left uninsulated.\r\n\r\nDucts should be insulated with vinyl-faced fiberglass wrap; R-6 is the minimum allowed by current residential codes; R-8 is required for supply ducts in attics. If possible, attic ducts should have higher R-values. Think about it: In winter, attic temperatures are nearly as cold as outdoors; in summer (for air-conditioning ducts), they are often much hotter than outdoors. If the ducts are close to the attic floor, cover them completely with loose-fill insulation. If that is not possible, try to find R-10 or higher duct wrap. Of course, seal all the duct connections tightly before insulating.\r\n<h1>Furnaces</h1>\r\nThe furnace is by far the most common type of heating system in the country. In fact, it’s so common that many people use the word furnace to describe any type of heating equipment. Furnaces create heat by burning fuel, usually natural gas. Oil and liquefied petroleum (LP, or propane) gas are also used in areas where piped gas is unavailable. By contrast, heat pumps and electric furnaces use electricity to heat the air; they also use a duct system to deliver heat, but they are not furnaces and do not have a fuel supply, chimney, or vent pipe. Boilers burn gas or oil but create hot water or steam instead of warm air. Furnace efficiency can be improved by performing regular maintenance, improving airflow, adjusting control settings, and sealing leaky ductwork.\r\n<img title=\"Heating_Pic2\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic2.jpg\" alt=\"Heating_Pic2\" />\r\n\r\nRegular maintenance\r\n\r\nRegular furnace maintenance is important to keep things running well, just as with any machine, but tune-ups and filter replacements don’t really save energy. Be sure to change the filter once or twice a year; more frequently is not much benefit because filters actually work better once some dust has built up on them. If the filter never gets dirty, however, then you may have a duct leak that is causing a loss of efficiency. Keeping registers open and free of obstructions may help your comfort, but this also won’t affect your energy bills noticeably.\r\n\r\nIf you have a gas furnace, you should have it cleaned and tuned every two to four years. An oil burner should be tuned every year. Don’t wait until cold weather hits—that’s when the service companies are busy. You may get a better price if you get the tune-up in the spring.\r\n<figure><img title=\"Heating_Pic3\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic3.png\" alt=\"Heating_Pic3\" /><figcaption>Air filters should be replaced occasionally for best furnace performance. This pleated filter is more effective than the standard cheap fiberglass filter, and it doesn’t cost much more.</figcaption></figure>\r\nLow airflow\r\n\r\nLow airflow can also reduce furnace efficiency. It can be caused by clogged air-conditioning coils, low fan speed settings, loose fan drive belts, undersized ductwork, or duct obstructions. Sometimes airflow is low to one room or section of the house, causing discomfort. Diagnosing low airflow is complex, but once identified, the fixes are usually fairly easy and inexpensive. These improvements are probably better left to a professional, but it’s good to be informed, because many technicians don’t bother checking airflow. If a service person is unable to explain in sensible terms what is happening in your system, you may want to get an opinion from another technician.\r\n\r\nFurnace Tune-Up\r\n\r\nA professional tune-up for a gas furnace includes cleaning the burner and heat exchanger, checking the adjustment of air and fuel flow, cleaning and checking the heat exchanger for leaks, and testing draft pressure and carbon monoxide levels. The air-handler fan should be cleaned and lubricated as needed, once every two or three tune-ups. In addition, internal controls may be checked and adjusted if necessary. Don’t expect any real energy savings from a gas furnace tune-up; every two to four years is often enough. Oil burners are more finicky than gas burners. Most oil furnaces benefit from annual professional service; fuel filters, burner nozzles, electrodes, combustion chamber, heat exchanger, and flue pipe all need regular cleaning and adjustment. Checking heat exchangers and testing combustion efficiency are also useful. Try to find a technician who is knowledgeable, methodical, and thorough. If you have an oil furnace, the service technician might also recommend installing a smaller oil nozzle. This can reduce the heat output of the furnace, better matching it to the house and increasing operating efficiency slightly.\r\n\r\nFurnace control settings\r\n\r\nThe furnace controls can also have an impact on efficiency. The blower control, located above the heat exchanger, turns on the blower when it senses heat from the burner. The fan-on temperature should be set so the blower comes on between 90°F and 105°F; if it’s set too high, the burner will fire for a long time before the fan comes on, letting excess heat go up the chimney. If it’s set too low, the circulating air may feel uncomfortably cool.\r\n\r\nThe fan-off temperature must be slightly lower than the fan-on temperature: between 85°F and 100°F. The lower it is set, the longer the fan will run at the end of the cycle when the thermostat turns off the burners, moving residual heat from the heat exchanger to your house. If your fan-on and fan-off temperatures are fixed (rather than adjustable) and set too high, the control can be replaced. Note that the temperature markings on adjustable controls are often poorly calibrated. Verify the actual fan-on and fan-off temperatures with a thermometer in the supply plenum.\r\n<h1>Heat Pumps</h1>\r\nAir-source heat pumps, popular in some parts of the country, are basically air conditioners that can work in reverse to deliver heat into the house in winter. Heat pumps provide heating and cooling in one machine, with one duct system and no combustion. Heat pumps are not subject to backdrafting, combustion air requirements, or some of the offcycle losses to which furnaces are prone. Because they use ducts to deliver warm air to the house, heat pump ducts in attics, garages, and crawlspaces must be sealed thoroughly and insulated well. Heat pumps are more prone to airflow problems than furnaces are, and improper refrigerant charging can have a negative impact on both heating and cooling efficiency.\r\n\r\nOperating efficiency and resistance heating\r\n\r\nHeat pumps are rated using Heating System Performance Factor, or HSPF. An HSPF of 6.8 corresponds to an efficiency of 200 percent. Most new heat pumps vary from 7.3 to about 10 HSPF; the larger the number, the more efficient the unit. An HSPF of 10 is approximately equal to 290-percent efficient—for every kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity you buy, you get almost 3 kWh of heat delivered to your house. How can a heat pump generate more energy than it consumes? The difference is made up by heat energy absorbed from the outdoor air. That energy goes into the system; because it’s free, it’s not counted in the measurement of efficiency. Most heat pumps, by themselves, operate at reasonable efficiencies until outside air temperatures drop to about 35°F to 40°F. As the outdoor air gets colder, less heat is available, and the heat pump output drops off, even as the house needs more heat. So cold-weather performance is typically supplemented with electric-resistance backup heaters. This auxiliary heat costs about three times more per unit of heat than the compressor heating cycle. That may be fine in regions with long summers, mild winters, and relatively low electric rates, but it’s not in much of the North, where electricity is expensive and winters are cold. One fairly inexpensive way to reduce the use of electric-resistance heating is to install an outdoor cutout thermostat. For about $100 to $150 installed, this device locks out the supplemental electric heat when the outdoor air temperature is above 30°F or 35°F.\r\n\r\nAirflow\r\n\r\nHeat pumps are even more sensitive to airflow than furnaces are. Heat pumps need to move a larger volume of air, but installers who are used to working with furnaces sometimes skimp on duct sizing, leading to low-airflow problems. Unfortunately, checking the airflow of a heat pump is not as easy as checking that of a furnace. It can be done with special instruments or with a version of the temperature-rise method used with the electric-resistance backup heat. Don’t attempt to take these measurements unless you understand exactly what you are doing—if you aren’t sure, get a service technician to do it for you. For best efficiency, heat pump airflow should be 375 CFM to 425 CFM per ton of heating capacity. It should never be below 300 CFM per ton. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour, and equipment is typically rated in increments of 1⁄2 ton, such as “24” (×1,000 Btu, or 2 tons), “30” (21⁄2 tons), “36” (3 tons), etc.\r\n\r\nRefrigerant charge\r\n\r\nOlder heat pumps are also finicky about refrigerant charge. Many heat pumps, even when serviced regularly, are either over- or undercharged, which has a negative impact on efficiency. Unfortunately, many service technicians don’t take the time to diagnose or correct those problems; they typically get the system working and move on to the next service call. To measure charge correctly, airflow must be in the recommended range, and few technicians test airflow as a matter of course. There are very specific ways to measure refrigerant charge during unit operation. Depending on the type of unit, the superheat or subcooling must be measured carefully, as it is for an air conditioner. There are also several automated systems on the market today that trained technicians can use to analyze heat pump operation. Newer high-efficiency models should also be properly charged, but they are more forgiving of varying charge conditions and their efficiency doesn’t suffer as much.\r\n\r\nHeat pump service\r\n\r\nLike furnaces, heat pumps should be serviced regularly. Basic service can be done by anyone. Air filters should be replaced once or twice a year, as needed, and the outdoor coil should be kept free of snow and debris. Regular service calls— typically every two to three years—should include testing the controls, cleaning the blower and both the indoor and the outdoor coils as needed, and checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines. To service your heat pump, try to find a contractor whose technicians are certified by North American Technician Excellence (NATE, see www.hvacradvice.com), or who demonstrates a commitment to attending manufacturers’ programs frequently. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing airflow problems, then carefully measuring and correcting refrigerant charge. Once that has been done, service technicians generally should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless the system performance drops off or there is other evidence that something is wrong. Refrigerant does not escape unless there is a leak.\r\n<img title=\"Heating_Pic4\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic4.png\" alt=\"Heating_Pic4\" />\r\n<img title=\"Heatin_Pic5\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heatin_Pic5.png\" alt=\"Heatin_Pic5\" />\r\n\r\nDuctless Heat Pumps\r\n\r\nDuctless heat pumps, often called minisplit heat pumps, are available in higher heating (and cooling) efficiencies than just about any other heat pumps on the market. The most efficient ones use an inverter-driven compressor, and variable speed fans that run continuously at a low speed to match the load in the house and minimize noise. One outdoor unit may be used with one or more indoor units that deliver heat and cooling to the house. Each indoor unit connects to the outdoor unit with a small bundle of pipes and wires that carry refrigerant and electricity, so there are no duct losses. Some models are designed for cold climate operation and maintain a high heating capacity and decent efficiency near 0°F. A single mini-split makes a great heating and cooling system for a single-room addition or a deep energy remodel, or to offset electric resistance, oil, or LP gas heat.\r\n\r\nGround-source heat pumps\r\n\r\nGround-source heat pumps (or GSHPs; often called geothermal heat pumps) extract heat from the earth or from underground water, rather than from outdoor air. Because temperatures are more stable underground, GSHP systems theoretically have much higher heating efficiencies than air-source heat pumps; rated Coefficient of Performance (COPs) range from about 3 to 5 (300 percent to 500 percent). There are two basic types of GSHP systems. Closed-loop (ground-loop) systems are usually more efficient but can be more expensive to install. Open-loop (groundwater or water source) systems usually cost less to install but can cost more to run, due to the power consumption of a large well pump that’s often required for these systems. A third type of GSHP, called direct exchange (DX), uses a copper pipe ground loop to circulate refrigerant underground. Their long-term reliability is less clear than that of closed loop water-based systems. Like air-source heat pumps, ground-source heat pumps can be cost-effective in regions with mild or hot climates and moderate electric rates, especially in areas where installation costs are modest. However, in regions with cold climates and high electric rates, they generally do not provide enough savings to justify the high installation cost. Ground-source heat pumps can also have very high cooling efficiencies. The heating capacity of GSHPs is much better in cold weather than that of conventional air-source heat pumps, so there is typically little or no need for supplemental electric heat. Closed-loop systems need little or no maintenance, but open-loop systems may have water-quality issues, filters that need replacing, and well pumps with shortened life expectancies.\r\n\r\nGround-Source Heat Pump Efficiency\r\n\r\nEfficiency ratings for GSHPs come in three flavors: water loop, ground loop, and ground water. “Water loop” is used for commercial systems; “ground loop” is used for closed loops; and “ground water” for open loops. All of them rate the heating efficiency using a Coefficient of Performance, which is the ratio of heat out to electricity in: A COP of 3 represents a heating efficiency of 300 percent. There’s a trick to the GSHP performance ratings: You can’t achieve them in a real installation. The rating applies only to “the box” itself and does not include most of the energy required to pump water or move air through the system. Depending on the installation, this can increase real operating costs between 20 percent and 100 percent (bringing a rated COP of 5 down to somewhere between 4 and 2.5). Despite marketing claims that GSHPs are “renewable” and “green,” they still run on electricity. Because electric generation and power lines are inefficient, a GSHP may actually be more expensive to run and generate more emissions than a high-efficiency natural gas furnace and AC system. GSHPs are, however, typically cheaper and cleaner than oil or LP gas heat. They are also quite expensive to install; my preference is to invest in a more efficient building enclosure.\r\n<h1>Electric-Resistance Heat</h1>\r\nMost electric-resistance heating systems are simple electric baseboard heaters. There are also various types of radiant-heat systems (usually panels mounted on ceiling or walls, built into valances, or built into ceiling or wall-finish systems). Cheap to install but expensive to operate, electric-resistance heat operates on the same principle as that of a toaster or hot plate. An electric current passes through a wire element, heating it. Air passes through and is heated by fins in the baseboard. Electric-resistance heat is always 100-percent efficient; every kilowatt-hour of electricity that you pay for is converted to heat. The reason electric baseboards are expensive to operate is that electricity costs two to four times as much as natural gas. One advantage of electric heat is the ease with which rooms can be zoned. But with the high fuel cost and hidden emissions, it’s difficult to justify except in special situations, such as isolated rooms, or extremely mild climates like southern Florida or Hawaii. Because these systems are so simple, there is very little that can be done to improve their efficiency. Short of supplementing or completely replacing them, the best approach (as always) is to insulate and thoroughly seal the building to reduce heating loads.\r\n<figure><img title=\"Heating_Pic6\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic6.png\" alt=\"Heating_Pic6\" /><figcaption>An electric baseboard heater is its own distribution system and is usually precisely in the area where heat is desired, so there are no distribution losses like those found in ductwork.</figcaption></figure>\r\nSupplementing Electric Heat\r\n\r\nA great way to reduce the cost of electric, LP or oil heat for a reasonable cost is with the installation of a variable speed ductless heat pump. The best systems are rated with an HSPF of 10 to 12, which means they use 65 percent to 70 percent less electricity per unit of delivered heat. Installing a single mini-split to heat a main living area can save 30 percent to 50 percent of a home’s heating bill (leaving the existing heat for remote rooms in cold weather), at an installed cost of $3,000 to $4,000. Ductless heat pumps also provide air-conditioning much more efficiently than do window units.\r\n<h1>Hot-Water and Steam Boilers</h1>\r\nBoilers, an old standby in the Northeast, are becoming more popular around the country with the advent of radiant, hydro-air, and hybrid systems. Instead of heating air, a boiler heats water. The classic boiler system uses hydronic distribution. Water is heated by the boiler and pumped through pipes to hot-water radiators or baseboard fin-tube convectors to heat the house. Some older systems use a boiler to make steam, which expands to fill steam radiators without the need for a circulator pump.\r\n\r\nBasic maintenance\r\n\r\nBoiler maintenance is similar to that of a gas or oil furnace, but there is no blower fan to clean. Oil boilers should be serviced once a year, whereas gas boilers should be serviced every two to four years. Any swishing or gurgling sounds that you hear in the radiators indicate air trapped in the system, which reduces heat-exchange efficiency. A service technician can bleed out the air and show you how to do it if it is needed frequently. Occasionally, bleed valves may need to be installed or replaced. The technician should check the hydronic system pressure and expansion tank; the smallest leak anywhere in the system should be repaired immediately to prevent corrosion-causing oxygen from being brought in via makeup water connections.\r\n\r\nBoiler controls and upgrades\r\n\r\nA typical hot-water boiler operates throughout the winter with a water temperature determined by the low-limit setting, a thermostatic switch that senses the water temperature inside the boiler and shuts off the burner when the water is hot enough. Standard boiler controls maintain full boiler temperature throughout the year, which is inefficient but necessary if a tankless coil water heater heats the domestic hot water. In the absence of a tankless coil, efficient boiler controls have a “cold start” feature that heats the boiler water only when it’s needed, and a “purge” control that runs the circulating pump for a few minutes after the boiler shuts off, to extract any heat that remains inside. These controls, often standard or optional on new, high-efficiency models, can also be retrofitted to existing boilers—but you have to be careful. Cold-start boilers must be protected from condensing on start-up, which may take some extra piping and a thermic valve (made by DanfossR or Termovar) to maintain adequate return-water temperature. Many newer boilers designed for cold starting have this protection built in.\r\nAnother improvement for older boilers that don’t have good controls is a mechanical vent damper. This device closes off the flue pipe after the burner shuts off, stopping the flow of heat through the heat exchanger and up the chimney. It costs $125 to $350 installed. Don’t use a gravity-actuated vent damper that depends on the heat from the burner to stay open; they are much more likely to malfunction.\r\n\r\nSteam boilers\r\n\r\nSteam boilers are very different from hot water boilers. Steam systems were popular in the early 20th century, and many of them are still in service in older homes. Instead of relying on pumps to circulate hot water, steam boilers boil water to create steam. The steam naturally expands to fill all the pipes and radiators in the system, distributing heat throughout the house. Although steam-heat distribution is simple and reliable, steam boilers have a number of unique maintenance and efficiency issues. Most residential steam systems are one-pipe systems. When the thermostat calls for heat, the boiler fires and steam begins expanding to fill the system. As the steam expands, it displaces air contained in the pipes and radiators, and that air must be allowed to escape through air vents typically located on the side of each radiator. Once the steam reaches the radiator, the air vent senses the heat and closes, keeping the steam inside. As the steam emits heat through the radiator, it condenses to water and flows back via gravity through the same pipes to the boiler.\r\nAir-venting systems that aren’t working properly can lead to uneven heating, large temperature fluctuations, and discomfort. A tune-up can increase energy efficiency and comfort dramatically. If the air vents are too small, if there are not enough of them, or if they are clogged with mineral deposits, air gets trapped in the system, and the steam cannot reach its destination. Having a professional replace malfunctioning air vents, add extra vents to radiators, or add special high-volume air vents to large central supply pipes can improve steam-system efficiency by quickly getting the heat where it is needed. Thermostatically controlled vents can reduce the rate of steam delivery to some rooms, reducing overheating and improving overall comfort.\r\nA common problem with steam systems is too much pressure. The boiler pressure controls should be set just high enough so that the boiler shuts down just as each radiator fills with steam. Too much steam pressure increases the boiler’s cycling losses and leads to overheating. That can particularly be a problem if the building envelope’s efficiency is improved dramatically and/or some radiators are removed during remodeling. Timed-cycle controllers vary the boiler cycle length to match the outdoor temperature, further improving the system’s efficiency.\r\n<h1>Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment</h1>\r\nReplacing a heating system with a newer, more efficient system is expensive, so it will typically have a long payback. However, if you have to replace a broken furnace or boiler, it is almost always cost-effective to select a high-efficiency system. However efficient (or inefficient) a house shell is, replacing a furnace from the mid-1980s or earlier with a 95-percent-efficient unit will save between 20 percent and 25 percent of the heating bill. Replacing an old boiler can save even more. On the other hand, if you have a 15-year-old unit that’s rated between 80-percent and 85-percent efficient, the savings will be much smaller. It’s probably better to spend your money on other efficiency projects. Finally, if you are planning a series of efficiency improvements to the house, it can be a good idea to complete them before upgrading equipment—you may be able to save some money by installing a smaller unit. If your existing heating system is functional but appears to be on its last legs, replacing it early can help avoid a big surprise. Deciding, rather than being forced, to replace a system reduces the panic factor and allows for a more reasoned choice. It may even reduce the cost a bit, because it won’t be an emergency call.\r\n\r\nEfficiency ratings\r\n\r\nAll new boilers and furnaces have standardized efficiency ratings, just like the gas-mileage ratings on automobiles. When selecting equipment, look for the highest efficiency ratings. Furnaces and boilers use Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE), which accounts for burner efficiency, pilot fuel, and off-cycle losses. New gas furnaces and boilers have AFUEs of 80 per-cent to 97 percent. AFUE ratings are available from manufacturers or at <a href=\"http://www.ahridirectory.org\">www.ahridirectory.org</a>. Air-source heat pumps are rated using HSPF; GSHPs are rated using COP. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and Department of Energy (DOE) maintain a listing of high-efficiency equipment on their Energy Star website (<a href=\"http://www.energystar.gov/\">www.energystar.gov/</a> products); always look for the Energy Star label, which indicates that the equipment meets certain above-minimum efficiency standards set by the government. Remember that the ratings apply to only the equipment. Installation problems, improper maintenance, and distribution problems (such as duct leakage) can reduce performance dramatically. Also remember that there are many products that exceed the Energy Star minimum standards; it’s still worth shopping for the highest-efficiency unit you can find.\r\n<figure><img title=\"Heating_Pic7\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic7.png\" alt=\"Heating_Pic7\" /><figcaption>The yellow Energy Guide label indicates the efficiency rating of new equipment and provides a comparison among similar models.</figcaption></figure>\r\n<h4>Energy New England</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li>100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 Foxborough, MA 02035</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-1200</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-0222</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">\r\nsolutions@ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ene.org/\">\r\nwww.ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>Website</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\"> Home\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\"> Energy Assessment\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\"> Recommendations\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\"> Town We Serve\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\"> Home Advisor\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"#\"> Shop\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\"> Contact\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>social media</h4>\r\n<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\r\nLinkedin\r\n</a>','Heating','','inherit','closed','closed','','2075-revision-v1','','','2018-07-24 15:06:33','2018-07-24 15:06:33','',2075,'http://ee.ene.org/2075-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2093,4,'2018-07-24 15:07:06','2018-07-24 15:07:06','<h2><p>Heating</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Efficiency Losses in a Heating System</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Duct Sealing</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Furnaces</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Heat Pumps</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Electric-Resistance Heat</a>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Hot-Water and Steam Boilers</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment</a></p>		\n			<h1>Efficiency Losses in a Heating System</h1>		\n		Not all the energy in the fuel you buy contributes to heating your house. Your heating system’s efficiency is the amount of useful heat you get as a percentage of purchased energy. Anything less than 100 percent represents waste, or lost efficiency. There are three kinds of heating system losses: combustion loss, cycling loss, and distribution loss. Combustion loss is simply the heat that goes up the chimney; it varies from about 30 percent to as little as 3 percent. That leaves a combustion efficiency between 70 percent and 97 percent; that is, the percentage of the fuel you buy that is converted to heat in the equipment. Combustion efficiency is mostly affected by equipment design; unless the burners are badly out of tune, it can’t be improved much unless you buy a new unit.\n Cycling losses occur when the heating equipment starts and stops. Each time the unit shuts off, some heat remains inside; some of that heat goes up the chimney. Cycling losses are affected by the equipment design, location, and controls; some efficiency improvements can be made if the controls are set poorly to begin with. Distribution losses occur when heat generated in the equipment gets out of the house before it reaches its destination. Distribution losses include duct air leaks and conductive losses through uninsulated ducts or pipes. Distribution losses can be significant: 5 percent to 30 percent, so in many homes a large improvement can be made.\n			<p>Comfort and energy use</p>		\n		Another fairly simple factor that affects heating-system performance is system balancing. Balancing refers to the temperature consistency from one room to the next. If one or more rooms are consistently too cold, people tend to set the thermostat high enough to be comfortable in those rooms. The rest of the house then overheats, using more energy. Balancing problems can be caused by thermal defects in the building, by problems in the distribution system, or by the thermostat location. Rooms that have air leaks, drafts, or missing insulation may lose heat faster than neighboring rooms, or they may just be uncomfortable. Thermal problems should be fixed before addressing the heating system. Once the building enclosure is properly treated, the distribution system can usually be adjusted for better balance.		\n			<h1>Duct-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Air leaks in a duct system can have an enormous effect on your house. Duct leaks rob a furnace, heat pump, or central air system of energy— sometimes close to half. Leaks can cause comfort problems, drive moisture flows, and sometimes even lead to dangerous back drafting of combustion equipment. Leaky basement ducts don’t usually waste much energy; sealing them is pretty easy, but there’s not much value to it. But ducts located in attics, garages, or vented crawlspaces can be a big energy problem. Sealing them can be the biggest opportunity for energy savings in many homes. Leaky ducts do more than let heat out. They also increase the air exchange in a house by 30 percent to 300 percent whenever the air handler is running. That is why furnaces have the reputation for drying out houses. Return leaks in a mechanical room or basement can backdraft a nearby water heater or even the furnace itself. Return leaks can also draw in radon gas, water vapor, subsoil pesticides, or airborne mold spores, distributing them throughout the house.</p><p>Supply air leaking into an attic or enclosed cathedral ceiling cavity can deliver moisture at an accelerated rate to cold roof sheathing, causing condensation. If the ducts also carry central air-conditioning, return leaks can bring in outdoor humidity in the summer, reducing cooling efficiency, and leaks can draw outside air into building cavities, where moisture can lead to mold inside the house. Duct leaks are even more important than shell air leaks: Each hole and crack is under pressure from the furnace fan and leaks the hot air from your furnace (or cold air from your air conditioner).</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic1.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic1\" alt=\"Heating_Pic1\" />											<figcaption>It’s important to peel back the insulation and vapor jacket to seal the duct connections. The black stains are from the air leaks.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n		Return ducts can be a bigger challenge. Return systems are frequently patched together using a combination of plywood, sheet metal, joist or wall cavities, and a lot of wishful thinking. Many HVAC installers don’t pay much attention to returns, focusing mostly on supplies that get the air to where it’s supposed to go. But well-sealed returns are important for furnace efficiency, occupant health and safety, and building durability. Fortunately, it’s not typically necessary to seal ducts that are buried inside interior wall and floor cavities. However, you do want to ensure that those cavities don’t leak to outside spaces; if they do, seal those leaks at the thermal boundary to keep the ducts and the indoor air inside.		\n			<p>Duct insulation</p>		\n		<p>Ductwork that runs through unconditioned space should be insulated, if it is not already. Typically, supply ducts are insulated but often have weak spots at register boots and other major connections. Often, return ductwork is left uninsulated.</p><p>Ducts should be insulated with vinyl-faced fiberglass wrap; R-6 is the minimum allowed by current residential codes; R-8 is required for supply ducts in attics. If possible, attic ducts should have higher R-values. Think about it: In winter, attic temperatures are nearly as cold as outdoors; in summer (for air-conditioning ducts), they are often much hotter than outdoors. If the ducts are close to the attic floor, cover them completely with loose-fill insulation. If that is not possible, try to find R-10 or higher duct wrap. Of course, seal all the duct connections tightly before insulating.</p>		\n			<h1>Furnaces</h1>		\n		The furnace is by far the most common type of heating system in the country. In fact, it’s so common that many people use the word furnace to describe any type of heating equipment. Furnaces create heat by burning fuel, usually natural gas. Oil and liquefied petroleum (LP, or propane) gas are also used in areas where piped gas is unavailable. By contrast, heat pumps and electric furnaces use electricity to heat the air; they also use a duct system to deliver heat, but they are not furnaces and do not have a fuel supply, chimney, or vent pipe. Boilers burn gas or oil but create hot water or steam instead of warm air. Furnace efficiency can be improved by performing regular maintenance, improving airflow, adjusting control settings, and sealing leaky ductwork.		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic2.jpg\" title=\"Heating_Pic2\" alt=\"Heating_Pic2\" />											\n			<p>Regular maintenance</p>		\n		<p>Regular furnace maintenance is important to keep things running well, just as with any machine, but tune-ups and filter replacements don’t really save energy. Be sure to change the filter once or twice a year; more frequently is not much benefit because filters actually work better once some dust has built up on them. If the filter never gets dirty, however, then you may have a duct leak that is causing a loss of efficiency. Keeping registers open and free of obstructions may help your comfort, but this also won’t affect your energy bills noticeably.</p><p> </p><p>If you have a gas furnace, you should have it cleaned and tuned every two to four years. An oil burner should be tuned every year. Don’t wait until cold weather hits—that’s when the service companies are busy. You may get a better price if you get the tune-up in the spring.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic3.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic3\" alt=\"Heating_Pic3\" />											<figcaption>Air filters should be replaced occasionally for best furnace performance. This pleated filter is more effective than the standard cheap fiberglass filter, and it doesn’t cost much more.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Low airflow</p>		\n		<p>Low airflow can also reduce furnace efficiency. It can be caused by clogged air-conditioning coils, low fan speed settings, loose fan drive belts, undersized ductwork, or duct obstructions. Sometimes airflow is low to one room or section of the house, causing discomfort. Diagnosing low airflow is complex, but once identified, the fixes are usually fairly easy and inexpensive. These improvements are probably better left to a professional, but it’s good to be informed, because many technicians don’t bother checking airflow. If a service person is unable to explain in sensible terms what is happening in your system, you may want to get an opinion from another technician.</p>		\n			<p>Furnace Tune-Up</p>		\n		A professional tune-up for a gas furnace includes cleaning the burner and heat exchanger, checking the adjustment of air and fuel flow, cleaning and checking the heat exchanger for leaks, and testing draft pressure and carbon monoxide levels. The air-handler fan should be cleaned and lubricated as needed, once every two or three tune-ups. In addition, internal controls may be checked and adjusted if necessary. Don’t expect any real energy savings from a gas furnace tune-up; every two to four years is often enough. Oil burners are more finicky than gas burners. Most oil furnaces benefit from annual professional service; fuel filters, burner nozzles, electrodes, combustion chamber, heat exchanger, and flue pipe all need regular cleaning and adjustment. Checking heat exchangers and testing combustion efficiency are also useful. Try to find a technician who is knowledgeable, methodical, and thorough. If you have an oil furnace, the service technician might also recommend installing a smaller oil nozzle. This can reduce the heat output of the furnace, better matching it to the house and increasing operating efficiency slightly.		\n			<p>Furnace control settings</p>		\n		<p>The furnace controls can also have an impact on efficiency. The blower control, located above the heat exchanger, turns on the blower when it senses heat from the burner. The fan-on temperature should be set so the blower comes on between 90°F and 105°F; if it’s set too high, the burner will fire for a long time before the fan comes on, letting excess heat go up the chimney. If it’s set too low, the circulating air may feel uncomfortably cool.</p><p> </p><p>The fan-off temperature must be slightly lower than the fan-on temperature: between 85°F and 100°F. The lower it is set, the longer the fan will run at the end of the cycle when the thermostat turns off the burners, moving residual heat from the heat exchanger to your house. If your fan-on and fan-off temperatures are fixed (rather than adjustable) and set too high, the control can be replaced. Note that the temperature markings on adjustable controls are often poorly calibrated. Verify the actual fan-on and fan-off temperatures with a thermometer in the supply plenum.</p>		\n			<h1>Heat Pumps</h1>		\n		Air-source heat pumps, popular in some parts of the country, are basically air conditioners that can work in reverse to deliver heat into the house in winter. Heat pumps provide heating and cooling in one machine, with one duct system and no combustion. Heat pumps are not subject to backdrafting, combustion air requirements, or some of the offcycle losses to which furnaces are prone. Because they use ducts to deliver warm air to the house, heat pump ducts in attics, garages, and crawlspaces must be sealed thoroughly and insulated well. Heat pumps are more prone to airflow problems than furnaces are, and improper refrigerant charging can have a negative impact on both heating and cooling efficiency. 		\n			<p>Operating efficiency and resistance heating</p>		\n		Heat pumps are rated using Heating System Performance Factor, or HSPF. An HSPF of 6.8 corresponds to an efficiency of 200 percent. Most new heat pumps vary from 7.3 to about 10 HSPF; the larger the number, the more efficient the unit. An HSPF of 10 is approximately equal to 290-percent efficient—for every kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity you buy, you get almost 3 kWh of heat delivered to your house. How can a heat pump generate more energy than it consumes? The difference is made up by heat energy absorbed from the outdoor air. That energy goes into the system; because it’s free, it’s not counted in the measurement of efficiency. Most heat pumps, by themselves, operate at reasonable efficiencies until outside air temperatures drop to about 35°F to 40°F. As the outdoor air gets colder, less heat is available, and the heat pump output drops off, even as the house needs more heat. So cold-weather performance is typically supplemented with electric-resistance backup heaters. This auxiliary heat costs about three times more per unit of heat than the compressor heating cycle. That may be fine in regions with long summers, mild winters, and relatively low electric rates, but it’s not in much of the North, where electricity is expensive and winters are cold. One fairly inexpensive way to reduce the use of electric-resistance heating is to install an outdoor cutout thermostat. For about $100 to $150 installed, this device locks out the supplemental electric heat when the outdoor air temperature is above 30°F or 35°F.		\n			<p>Airflow</p>		\n		Heat pumps are even more sensitive to airflow than furnaces are. Heat pumps need to move a larger volume of air, but installers who are used to working with furnaces sometimes skimp on duct sizing, leading to low-airflow problems. Unfortunately, checking the airflow of a heat pump is not as easy as checking that of a furnace. It can be done with special instruments or with a version of the temperature-rise method used with the electric-resistance backup heat. Don’t attempt to take these measurements unless you understand exactly what you are doing—if you aren’t sure, get a service technician to do it for you. For best efficiency, heat pump airflow should be 375 CFM to 425 CFM per ton of heating capacity. It should never be below 300 CFM per ton. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour, and equipment is typically rated in increments of 1⁄2 ton, such as “24” (×1,000 Btu, or 2 tons), “30” (21⁄2 tons), “36” (3 tons), etc.		\n			<p>Refrigerant charge</p>		\n		Older heat pumps are also finicky about refrigerant charge. Many heat pumps, even when serviced regularly, are either over- or undercharged, which has a negative impact on efficiency. Unfortunately, many service technicians don’t take the time to diagnose or correct those problems; they typically get the system working and move on to the next service call. To measure charge correctly, airflow must be in the recommended range, and few technicians test airflow as a matter of course. There are very specific ways to measure refrigerant charge during unit operation. Depending on the type of unit, the superheat or subcooling must be measured carefully, as it is for an air conditioner. There are also several automated systems on the market today that trained technicians can use to analyze heat pump operation. Newer high-efficiency models should also be properly charged, but they are more forgiving of varying charge conditions and their efficiency doesn’t suffer as much.		\n			<p>Heat pump service</p>		\n		Like furnaces, heat pumps should be serviced regularly. Basic service can be done by anyone. Air filters should be replaced once or twice a year, as needed, and the outdoor coil should be kept free of snow and debris. Regular service calls— typically every two to three years—should include testing the controls, cleaning the blower and both the indoor and the outdoor coils as needed, and checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines. To service your heat pump, try to find a contractor whose technicians are certified by North American Technician Excellence (NATE, see www.hvacradvice.com), or who demonstrates a commitment to attending manufacturers’ programs frequently. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing airflow problems, then carefully measuring and correcting refrigerant charge. Once that has been done, service technicians generally should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless the system performance drops off or there is other evidence that something is wrong. Refrigerant does not escape unless there is a leak.		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic4.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic4\" alt=\"Heating_Pic4\" />											\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heatin_Pic5.png\" title=\"Heatin_Pic5\" alt=\"Heatin_Pic5\" />											\n			<p>Ductless Heat Pumps</p>		\n		Ductless heat pumps, often called minisplit heat pumps, are available in higher heating (and cooling) efficiencies than just about any other heat pumps on the market. The most efficient ones use an inverter-driven compressor, and variable speed fans that run continuously at a low speed to match the load in the house and minimize noise. One outdoor unit may be used with one or more indoor units that deliver heat and cooling to the house. Each indoor unit connects to the outdoor unit with a small bundle of pipes and wires that carry refrigerant and electricity, so there are no duct losses. Some models are designed for cold climate operation and maintain a high heating capacity and decent efficiency near 0°F. A single mini-split makes a great heating and cooling system for a single-room addition or a deep energy remodel, or to offset electric resistance, oil, or LP gas heat.		\n			<p>Ground-source heat pumps</p>		\n		Ground-source heat pumps (or GSHPs; often called geothermal heat pumps) extract heat from the earth or from underground water, rather than from outdoor air. Because temperatures are more stable underground, GSHP systems theoretically have much higher heating efficiencies than air-source heat pumps; rated Coefficient of Performance (COPs) range from about 3 to 5 (300 percent to 500 percent). There are two basic types of GSHP systems. Closed-loop (ground-loop) systems are usually more efficient but can be more expensive to install. Open-loop (groundwater or water source) systems usually cost less to install but can cost more to run, due to the power consumption of a large well pump that’s often required for these systems. A third type of GSHP, called direct exchange (DX), uses a copper pipe ground loop to circulate refrigerant underground. Their long-term reliability is less clear than that of closed loop water-based systems. Like air-source heat pumps, ground-source heat pumps can be cost-effective in regions with mild or hot climates and moderate electric rates, especially in areas where installation costs are modest. However, in regions with cold climates and high electric rates, they generally do not provide enough savings to justify the high installation cost. Ground-source heat pumps can also have very high cooling efficiencies. The heating capacity of GSHPs is much better in cold weather than that of conventional air-source heat pumps, so there is typically little or no need for supplemental electric heat. Closed-loop systems need little or no maintenance, but open-loop systems may have water-quality issues, filters that need replacing, and well pumps with shortened life expectancies.		\n			<p>Ground-Source Heat Pump Efficiency</p>		\n		Efficiency ratings for GSHPs come in three flavors: water loop, ground loop, and ground water. “Water loop” is used for commercial systems; “ground loop” is used for closed loops; and “ground water” for open loops. All of them rate the heating efficiency using a Coefficient of Performance, which is the ratio of heat out to electricity in: A COP of 3 represents a heating efficiency of 300 percent. There’s a trick to the GSHP performance ratings: You can’t achieve them in a real installation. The rating applies only to “the box” itself and does not include most of the energy required to pump water or move air through the system. Depending on the installation, this can increase real operating costs between 20 percent and 100 percent (bringing a rated COP of 5 down to somewhere between 4 and 2.5). Despite marketing claims that GSHPs are “renewable” and “green,” they still run on electricity. Because electric generation and power lines are inefficient, a GSHP may actually be more expensive to run and generate more emissions than a high-efficiency natural gas furnace and AC system. GSHPs are, however, typically cheaper and cleaner than oil or LP gas heat. They are also quite expensive to install; my preference is to invest in a more efficient building enclosure.		\n			<h1>Electric-Resistance Heat</h1>		\n		Most electric-resistance heating systems are simple electric baseboard heaters. There are also various types of radiant-heat systems (usually panels mounted on ceiling or walls, built into valances, or built into ceiling or wall-finish systems). Cheap to install but expensive to operate, electric-resistance heat operates on the same principle as that of a toaster or hot plate. An electric current passes through a wire element, heating it. Air passes through and is heated by fins in the baseboard. Electric-resistance heat is always 100-percent efficient; every kilowatt-hour of electricity that you pay for is converted to heat. The reason electric baseboards are expensive to operate is that electricity costs two to four times as much as natural gas. One advantage of electric heat is the ease with which rooms can be zoned. But with the high fuel cost and hidden emissions, it’s difficult to justify except in special situations, such as isolated rooms, or extremely mild climates like southern Florida or Hawaii. Because these systems are so simple, there is very little that can be done to improve their efficiency. Short of supplementing or completely replacing them, the best approach (as always) is to insulate and thoroughly seal the building to reduce heating loads.		\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic6.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic6\" alt=\"Heating_Pic6\" />											<figcaption>An electric baseboard heater is its own distribution system and is usually precisely in the area where heat is desired, so there are no distribution losses like those found in ductwork.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Supplementing Electric Heat</p>		\n		<p>A great way to reduce the cost of electric, LP or oil heat for a reasonable cost is with the installation of a variable speed ductless heat pump. The best systems are rated with an HSPF of 10 to 12, which means they use 65 percent to 70 percent less electricity per unit of delivered heat. Installing a single mini-split to heat a main living area can save 30 percent to 50 percent of a home’s heating bill (leaving the existing heat for remote rooms in cold weather), at an installed cost of $3,000 to $4,000. Ductless heat pumps also provide air-conditioning much more efficiently than do window units.</p>		\n			<h1>Hot-Water and Steam Boilers</h1>		\n		Boilers, an old standby in the Northeast, are becoming more popular around the country with the advent of radiant, hydro-air, and hybrid systems. Instead of heating air, a boiler heats water. The classic boiler system uses hydronic distribution. Water is heated by the boiler and pumped through pipes to hot-water radiators or baseboard fin-tube convectors to heat the house. Some older systems use a boiler to make steam, which expands to fill steam radiators without the need for a circulator pump. 		\n			<p>Basic maintenance</p>		\n		Boiler maintenance is similar to that of a gas or oil furnace, but there is no blower fan to clean. Oil boilers should be serviced once a year, whereas gas boilers should be serviced every two to four years. Any swishing or gurgling sounds that you hear in the radiators indicate air trapped in the system, which reduces heat-exchange efficiency. A service technician can bleed out the air and show you how to do it if it is needed frequently. Occasionally, bleed valves may need to be installed or replaced. The technician should check the hydronic system pressure and expansion tank; the smallest leak anywhere in the system should be repaired immediately to prevent corrosion-causing oxygen from being brought in via makeup water connections.		\n			<p>Boiler controls and upgrades</p>		\n		A typical hot-water boiler operates throughout the winter with a water temperature determined by the low-limit setting, a thermostatic switch that senses the water temperature inside the boiler and shuts off the burner when the water is hot enough. Standard boiler controls maintain full boiler temperature throughout the year, which is inefficient but necessary if a tankless coil water heater heats the domestic hot water. In the absence of a tankless coil, efficient boiler controls have a “cold start” feature that heats the boiler water only when it’s needed, and a “purge” control that runs the circulating pump for a few minutes after the boiler shuts off, to extract any heat that remains inside. These controls, often standard or optional on new, high-efficiency models, can also be retrofitted to existing boilers—but you have to be careful. Cold-start boilers must be protected from condensing on start-up, which may take some extra piping and a thermic valve (made by DanfossR or Termovar) to maintain adequate return-water temperature. Many newer boilers designed for cold starting have this protection built in.\nAnother improvement for older boilers that don’t have good controls is a mechanical vent damper. This device closes off the flue pipe after the burner shuts off, stopping the flow of heat through the heat exchanger and up the chimney. It costs $125 to $350 installed. Don’t use a gravity-actuated vent damper that depends on the heat from the burner to stay open; they are much more likely to malfunction.\n			<p>Steam boilers</p>		\n		Steam boilers are very different from hot water boilers. Steam systems were popular in the early 20th century, and many of them are still in service in older homes. Instead of relying on pumps to circulate hot water, steam boilers boil water to create steam. The steam naturally expands to fill all the pipes and radiators in the system, distributing heat throughout the house. Although steam-heat distribution is simple and reliable, steam boilers have a number of unique maintenance and efficiency issues. Most residential steam systems are one-pipe systems. When the thermostat calls for heat, the boiler fires and steam begins expanding to fill the system. As the steam expands, it displaces air contained in the pipes and radiators, and that air must be allowed to escape through air vents typically located on the side of each radiator. Once the steam reaches the radiator, the air vent senses the heat and closes, keeping the steam inside. As the steam emits heat through the radiator, it condenses to water and flows back via gravity through the same pipes to the boiler.\nAir-venting systems that aren’t working properly can lead to uneven heating, large temperature fluctuations, and discomfort. A tune-up can increase energy efficiency and comfort dramatically. If the air vents are too small, if there are not enough of them, or if they are clogged with mineral deposits, air gets trapped in the system, and the steam cannot reach its destination. Having a professional replace malfunctioning air vents, add extra vents to radiators, or add special high-volume air vents to large central supply pipes can improve steam-system efficiency by quickly getting the heat where it is needed. Thermostatically controlled vents can reduce the rate of steam delivery to some rooms, reducing overheating and improving overall comfort.\nA common problem with steam systems is too much pressure. The boiler pressure controls should be set just high enough so that the boiler shuts down just as each radiator fills with steam. Too much steam pressure increases the boiler’s cycling losses and leads to overheating. That can particularly be a problem if the building envelope’s efficiency is improved dramatically and/or some radiators are removed during remodeling. Timed-cycle controllers vary the boiler cycle length to match the outdoor temperature, further improving the system’s efficiency.\n			<h1>Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment</h1>		\n		Replacing a heating system with a newer, more efficient system is expensive, so it will typically have a long payback. However, if you have to replace a broken furnace or boiler, it is almost always cost-effective to select a high-efficiency system. However efficient (or inefficient) a house shell is, replacing a furnace from the mid-1980s or earlier with a 95-percent-efficient unit will save between 20 percent and 25 percent of the heating bill. Replacing an old boiler can save even more. On the other hand, if you have a 15-year-old unit that’s rated between 80-percent and 85-percent efficient, the savings will be much smaller. It’s probably better to spend your money on other efficiency projects. Finally, if you are planning a series of efficiency improvements to the house, it can be a good idea to complete them before upgrading equipment—you may be able to save some money by installing a smaller unit. If your existing heating system is functional but appears to be on its last legs, replacing it early can help avoid a big surprise. Deciding, rather than being forced, to replace a system reduces the panic factor and allows for a more reasoned choice. It may even reduce the cost a bit, because it won’t be an emergency call.		\n			<p>Efficiency ratings</p>		\n		<p>All new boilers and furnaces have standardized efficiency ratings, just like the gas-mileage ratings on automobiles. When selecting equipment, look for the highest efficiency ratings. Furnaces and boilers use Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE), which accounts for burner efficiency, pilot fuel, and off-cycle losses. New gas furnaces and boilers have AFUEs of 80 per-cent to 97 percent. AFUE ratings are available from manufacturers or at <a href=\"http://www.ahridirectory.org\">www.ahridirectory.org</a>. Air-source heat pumps are rated using HSPF; GSHPs are rated using COP. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and Department of Energy (DOE) maintain a listing of high-efficiency equipment on their Energy Star website (<a href=\"http://www.energystar.gov/\">www.energystar.gov/</a> products); always look for the Energy Star label, which indicates that the equipment meets certain above-minimum efficiency standards set by the government. Remember that the ratings apply to only the equipment. Installation problems, improper maintenance, and distribution problems (such as duct leakage) can reduce performance dramatically. Also remember that there are many products that exceed the Energy Star minimum standards; it’s still worth shopping for the highest-efficiency unit you can find.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic7.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic7\" alt=\"Heating_Pic7\" />											<figcaption>The yellow Energy Guide label indicates the efficiency rating of new equipment and provides a comparison among similar models.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Heating','','inherit','closed','closed','','2075-revision-v1','','','2018-07-24 15:07:06','2018-07-24 15:07:06','',2075,'http://ee.ene.org/2075-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2095,4,'2018-07-24 15:09:37','2018-07-24 15:09:37','<h2><p>Heating</p></h2>		\n		<a href=\"#anchor01\">Efficiency Losses in a Heating System</a>\n<a href=\"#anchor02\">Duct Sealing</a>\n<a href=\"#anchor03\">Furnaces</a>\n<a href=\"#anchor04\">Heat Pumps</a>\n<a href=\"#anchor05\">Electric-Resistance Heat</a>\n<a href=\"#anchor06\">Hot-Water and Steam Boilers</a>\n<a href=\"#anchor07\">Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment</a>		\n			<h1>Efficiency Losses in a Heating System</h1>		\n		Not all the energy in the fuel you buy contributes to heating your house. Your heating system’s efficiency is the amount of useful heat you get as a percentage of purchased energy. Anything less than 100 percent represents waste, or lost efficiency. There are three kinds of heating system losses: combustion loss, cycling loss, and distribution loss. Combustion loss is simply the heat that goes up the chimney; it varies from about 30 percent to as little as 3 percent. That leaves a combustion efficiency between 70 percent and 97 percent; that is, the percentage of the fuel you buy that is converted to heat in the equipment. Combustion efficiency is mostly affected by equipment design; unless the burners are badly out of tune, it can’t be improved much unless you buy a new unit.\n Cycling losses occur when the heating equipment starts and stops. Each time the unit shuts off, some heat remains inside; some of that heat goes up the chimney. Cycling losses are affected by the equipment design, location, and controls; some efficiency improvements can be made if the controls are set poorly to begin with. Distribution losses occur when heat generated in the equipment gets out of the house before it reaches its destination. Distribution losses include duct air leaks and conductive losses through uninsulated ducts or pipes. Distribution losses can be significant: 5 percent to 30 percent, so in many homes a large improvement can be made.\n			<p>Comfort and energy use</p>		\n		Another fairly simple factor that affects heating-system performance is system balancing. Balancing refers to the temperature consistency from one room to the next. If one or more rooms are consistently too cold, people tend to set the thermostat high enough to be comfortable in those rooms. The rest of the house then overheats, using more energy. Balancing problems can be caused by thermal defects in the building, by problems in the distribution system, or by the thermostat location. Rooms that have air leaks, drafts, or missing insulation may lose heat faster than neighboring rooms, or they may just be uncomfortable. Thermal problems should be fixed before addressing the heating system. Once the building enclosure is properly treated, the distribution system can usually be adjusted for better balance.		\n			<h1>Duct-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Air leaks in a duct system can have an enormous effect on your house. Duct leaks rob a furnace, heat pump, or central air system of energy— sometimes close to half. Leaks can cause comfort problems, drive moisture flows, and sometimes even lead to dangerous back drafting of combustion equipment. Leaky basement ducts don’t usually waste much energy; sealing them is pretty easy, but there’s not much value to it. But ducts located in attics, garages, or vented crawlspaces can be a big energy problem. Sealing them can be the biggest opportunity for energy savings in many homes. Leaky ducts do more than let heat out. They also increase the air exchange in a house by 30 percent to 300 percent whenever the air handler is running. That is why furnaces have the reputation for drying out houses. Return leaks in a mechanical room or basement can backdraft a nearby water heater or even the furnace itself. Return leaks can also draw in radon gas, water vapor, subsoil pesticides, or airborne mold spores, distributing them throughout the house.</p><p>Supply air leaking into an attic or enclosed cathedral ceiling cavity can deliver moisture at an accelerated rate to cold roof sheathing, causing condensation. If the ducts also carry central air-conditioning, return leaks can bring in outdoor humidity in the summer, reducing cooling efficiency, and leaks can draw outside air into building cavities, where moisture can lead to mold inside the house. Duct leaks are even more important than shell air leaks: Each hole and crack is under pressure from the furnace fan and leaks the hot air from your furnace (or cold air from your air conditioner).</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic1.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic1\" alt=\"Heating_Pic1\" />											<figcaption>It’s important to peel back the insulation and vapor jacket to seal the duct connections. The black stains are from the air leaks.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n		Return ducts can be a bigger challenge. Return systems are frequently patched together using a combination of plywood, sheet metal, joist or wall cavities, and a lot of wishful thinking. Many HVAC installers don’t pay much attention to returns, focusing mostly on supplies that get the air to where it’s supposed to go. But well-sealed returns are important for furnace efficiency, occupant health and safety, and building durability. Fortunately, it’s not typically necessary to seal ducts that are buried inside interior wall and floor cavities. However, you do want to ensure that those cavities don’t leak to outside spaces; if they do, seal those leaks at the thermal boundary to keep the ducts and the indoor air inside.		\n			<p>Duct insulation</p>		\n		<p>Ductwork that runs through unconditioned space should be insulated, if it is not already. Typically, supply ducts are insulated but often have weak spots at register boots and other major connections. Often, return ductwork is left uninsulated.</p><p>Ducts should be insulated with vinyl-faced fiberglass wrap; R-6 is the minimum allowed by current residential codes; R-8 is required for supply ducts in attics. If possible, attic ducts should have higher R-values. Think about it: In winter, attic temperatures are nearly as cold as outdoors; in summer (for air-conditioning ducts), they are often much hotter than outdoors. If the ducts are close to the attic floor, cover them completely with loose-fill insulation. If that is not possible, try to find R-10 or higher duct wrap. Of course, seal all the duct connections tightly before insulating.</p>		\n			<h1>Furnaces</h1>		\n		The furnace is by far the most common type of heating system in the country. In fact, it’s so common that many people use the word furnace to describe any type of heating equipment. Furnaces create heat by burning fuel, usually natural gas. Oil and liquefied petroleum (LP, or propane) gas are also used in areas where piped gas is unavailable. By contrast, heat pumps and electric furnaces use electricity to heat the air; they also use a duct system to deliver heat, but they are not furnaces and do not have a fuel supply, chimney, or vent pipe. Boilers burn gas or oil but create hot water or steam instead of warm air. Furnace efficiency can be improved by performing regular maintenance, improving airflow, adjusting control settings, and sealing leaky ductwork.		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic2.jpg\" title=\"Heating_Pic2\" alt=\"Heating_Pic2\" />											\n			<p>Regular maintenance</p>		\n		<p>Regular furnace maintenance is important to keep things running well, just as with any machine, but tune-ups and filter replacements don’t really save energy. Be sure to change the filter once or twice a year; more frequently is not much benefit because filters actually work better once some dust has built up on them. If the filter never gets dirty, however, then you may have a duct leak that is causing a loss of efficiency. Keeping registers open and free of obstructions may help your comfort, but this also won’t affect your energy bills noticeably.</p><p> </p><p>If you have a gas furnace, you should have it cleaned and tuned every two to four years. An oil burner should be tuned every year. Don’t wait until cold weather hits—that’s when the service companies are busy. You may get a better price if you get the tune-up in the spring.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic3.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic3\" alt=\"Heating_Pic3\" />											<figcaption>Air filters should be replaced occasionally for best furnace performance. This pleated filter is more effective than the standard cheap fiberglass filter, and it doesn’t cost much more.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Low airflow</p>		\n		<p>Low airflow can also reduce furnace efficiency. It can be caused by clogged air-conditioning coils, low fan speed settings, loose fan drive belts, undersized ductwork, or duct obstructions. Sometimes airflow is low to one room or section of the house, causing discomfort. Diagnosing low airflow is complex, but once identified, the fixes are usually fairly easy and inexpensive. These improvements are probably better left to a professional, but it’s good to be informed, because many technicians don’t bother checking airflow. If a service person is unable to explain in sensible terms what is happening in your system, you may want to get an opinion from another technician.</p>		\n			<p>Furnace Tune-Up</p>		\n		A professional tune-up for a gas furnace includes cleaning the burner and heat exchanger, checking the adjustment of air and fuel flow, cleaning and checking the heat exchanger for leaks, and testing draft pressure and carbon monoxide levels. The air-handler fan should be cleaned and lubricated as needed, once every two or three tune-ups. In addition, internal controls may be checked and adjusted if necessary. Don’t expect any real energy savings from a gas furnace tune-up; every two to four years is often enough. Oil burners are more finicky than gas burners. Most oil furnaces benefit from annual professional service; fuel filters, burner nozzles, electrodes, combustion chamber, heat exchanger, and flue pipe all need regular cleaning and adjustment. Checking heat exchangers and testing combustion efficiency are also useful. Try to find a technician who is knowledgeable, methodical, and thorough. If you have an oil furnace, the service technician might also recommend installing a smaller oil nozzle. This can reduce the heat output of the furnace, better matching it to the house and increasing operating efficiency slightly.		\n			<p>Furnace control settings</p>		\n		<p>The furnace controls can also have an impact on efficiency. The blower control, located above the heat exchanger, turns on the blower when it senses heat from the burner. The fan-on temperature should be set so the blower comes on between 90°F and 105°F; if it’s set too high, the burner will fire for a long time before the fan comes on, letting excess heat go up the chimney. If it’s set too low, the circulating air may feel uncomfortably cool.</p><p> </p><p>The fan-off temperature must be slightly lower than the fan-on temperature: between 85°F and 100°F. The lower it is set, the longer the fan will run at the end of the cycle when the thermostat turns off the burners, moving residual heat from the heat exchanger to your house. If your fan-on and fan-off temperatures are fixed (rather than adjustable) and set too high, the control can be replaced. Note that the temperature markings on adjustable controls are often poorly calibrated. Verify the actual fan-on and fan-off temperatures with a thermometer in the supply plenum.</p>		\n			<h1>Heat Pumps</h1>		\n		Air-source heat pumps, popular in some parts of the country, are basically air conditioners that can work in reverse to deliver heat into the house in winter. Heat pumps provide heating and cooling in one machine, with one duct system and no combustion. Heat pumps are not subject to backdrafting, combustion air requirements, or some of the offcycle losses to which furnaces are prone. Because they use ducts to deliver warm air to the house, heat pump ducts in attics, garages, and crawlspaces must be sealed thoroughly and insulated well. Heat pumps are more prone to airflow problems than furnaces are, and improper refrigerant charging can have a negative impact on both heating and cooling efficiency. 		\n			<p>Operating efficiency and resistance heating</p>		\n		Heat pumps are rated using Heating System Performance Factor, or HSPF. An HSPF of 6.8 corresponds to an efficiency of 200 percent. Most new heat pumps vary from 7.3 to about 10 HSPF; the larger the number, the more efficient the unit. An HSPF of 10 is approximately equal to 290-percent efficient—for every kilowatt-hour (kWh) of electricity you buy, you get almost 3 kWh of heat delivered to your house. How can a heat pump generate more energy than it consumes? The difference is made up by heat energy absorbed from the outdoor air. That energy goes into the system; because it’s free, it’s not counted in the measurement of efficiency. Most heat pumps, by themselves, operate at reasonable efficiencies until outside air temperatures drop to about 35°F to 40°F. As the outdoor air gets colder, less heat is available, and the heat pump output drops off, even as the house needs more heat. So cold-weather performance is typically supplemented with electric-resistance backup heaters. This auxiliary heat costs about three times more per unit of heat than the compressor heating cycle. That may be fine in regions with long summers, mild winters, and relatively low electric rates, but it’s not in much of the North, where electricity is expensive and winters are cold. One fairly inexpensive way to reduce the use of electric-resistance heating is to install an outdoor cutout thermostat. For about $100 to $150 installed, this device locks out the supplemental electric heat when the outdoor air temperature is above 30°F or 35°F.		\n			<p>Airflow</p>		\n		Heat pumps are even more sensitive to airflow than furnaces are. Heat pumps need to move a larger volume of air, but installers who are used to working with furnaces sometimes skimp on duct sizing, leading to low-airflow problems. Unfortunately, checking the airflow of a heat pump is not as easy as checking that of a furnace. It can be done with special instruments or with a version of the temperature-rise method used with the electric-resistance backup heat. Don’t attempt to take these measurements unless you understand exactly what you are doing—if you aren’t sure, get a service technician to do it for you. For best efficiency, heat pump airflow should be 375 CFM to 425 CFM per ton of heating capacity. It should never be below 300 CFM per ton. One ton equals 12,000 Btu per hour, and equipment is typically rated in increments of 1⁄2 ton, such as “24” (×1,000 Btu, or 2 tons), “30” (21⁄2 tons), “36” (3 tons), etc.		\n			<p>Refrigerant charge</p>		\n		Older heat pumps are also finicky about refrigerant charge. Many heat pumps, even when serviced regularly, are either over- or undercharged, which has a negative impact on efficiency. Unfortunately, many service technicians don’t take the time to diagnose or correct those problems; they typically get the system working and move on to the next service call. To measure charge correctly, airflow must be in the recommended range, and few technicians test airflow as a matter of course. There are very specific ways to measure refrigerant charge during unit operation. Depending on the type of unit, the superheat or subcooling must be measured carefully, as it is for an air conditioner. There are also several automated systems on the market today that trained technicians can use to analyze heat pump operation. Newer high-efficiency models should also be properly charged, but they are more forgiving of varying charge conditions and their efficiency doesn’t suffer as much.		\n			<p>Heat pump service</p>		\n		Like furnaces, heat pumps should be serviced regularly. Basic service can be done by anyone. Air filters should be replaced once or twice a year, as needed, and the outdoor coil should be kept free of snow and debris. Regular service calls— typically every two to three years—should include testing the controls, cleaning the blower and both the indoor and the outdoor coils as needed, and checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines. To service your heat pump, try to find a contractor whose technicians are certified by North American Technician Excellence (NATE, see www.hvacradvice.com), or who demonstrates a commitment to attending manufacturers’ programs frequently. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing airflow problems, then carefully measuring and correcting refrigerant charge. Once that has been done, service technicians generally should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless the system performance drops off or there is other evidence that something is wrong. Refrigerant does not escape unless there is a leak.		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic4.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic4\" alt=\"Heating_Pic4\" />											\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heatin_Pic5.png\" title=\"Heatin_Pic5\" alt=\"Heatin_Pic5\" />											\n			<p>Ductless Heat Pumps</p>		\n		Ductless heat pumps, often called minisplit heat pumps, are available in higher heating (and cooling) efficiencies than just about any other heat pumps on the market. The most efficient ones use an inverter-driven compressor, and variable speed fans that run continuously at a low speed to match the load in the house and minimize noise. One outdoor unit may be used with one or more indoor units that deliver heat and cooling to the house. Each indoor unit connects to the outdoor unit with a small bundle of pipes and wires that carry refrigerant and electricity, so there are no duct losses. Some models are designed for cold climate operation and maintain a high heating capacity and decent efficiency near 0°F. A single mini-split makes a great heating and cooling system for a single-room addition or a deep energy remodel, or to offset electric resistance, oil, or LP gas heat.		\n			<p>Ground-source heat pumps</p>		\n		Ground-source heat pumps (or GSHPs; often called geothermal heat pumps) extract heat from the earth or from underground water, rather than from outdoor air. Because temperatures are more stable underground, GSHP systems theoretically have much higher heating efficiencies than air-source heat pumps; rated Coefficient of Performance (COPs) range from about 3 to 5 (300 percent to 500 percent). There are two basic types of GSHP systems. Closed-loop (ground-loop) systems are usually more efficient but can be more expensive to install. Open-loop (groundwater or water source) systems usually cost less to install but can cost more to run, due to the power consumption of a large well pump that’s often required for these systems. A third type of GSHP, called direct exchange (DX), uses a copper pipe ground loop to circulate refrigerant underground. Their long-term reliability is less clear than that of closed loop water-based systems. Like air-source heat pumps, ground-source heat pumps can be cost-effective in regions with mild or hot climates and moderate electric rates, especially in areas where installation costs are modest. However, in regions with cold climates and high electric rates, they generally do not provide enough savings to justify the high installation cost. Ground-source heat pumps can also have very high cooling efficiencies. The heating capacity of GSHPs is much better in cold weather than that of conventional air-source heat pumps, so there is typically little or no need for supplemental electric heat. Closed-loop systems need little or no maintenance, but open-loop systems may have water-quality issues, filters that need replacing, and well pumps with shortened life expectancies.		\n			<p>Ground-Source Heat Pump Efficiency</p>		\n		Efficiency ratings for GSHPs come in three flavors: water loop, ground loop, and ground water. “Water loop” is used for commercial systems; “ground loop” is used for closed loops; and “ground water” for open loops. All of them rate the heating efficiency using a Coefficient of Performance, which is the ratio of heat out to electricity in: A COP of 3 represents a heating efficiency of 300 percent. There’s a trick to the GSHP performance ratings: You can’t achieve them in a real installation. The rating applies only to “the box” itself and does not include most of the energy required to pump water or move air through the system. Depending on the installation, this can increase real operating costs between 20 percent and 100 percent (bringing a rated COP of 5 down to somewhere between 4 and 2.5). Despite marketing claims that GSHPs are “renewable” and “green,” they still run on electricity. Because electric generation and power lines are inefficient, a GSHP may actually be more expensive to run and generate more emissions than a high-efficiency natural gas furnace and AC system. GSHPs are, however, typically cheaper and cleaner than oil or LP gas heat. They are also quite expensive to install; my preference is to invest in a more efficient building enclosure.		\n			<h1>Electric-Resistance Heat</h1>		\n		Most electric-resistance heating systems are simple electric baseboard heaters. There are also various types of radiant-heat systems (usually panels mounted on ceiling or walls, built into valances, or built into ceiling or wall-finish systems). Cheap to install but expensive to operate, electric-resistance heat operates on the same principle as that of a toaster or hot plate. An electric current passes through a wire element, heating it. Air passes through and is heated by fins in the baseboard. Electric-resistance heat is always 100-percent efficient; every kilowatt-hour of electricity that you pay for is converted to heat. The reason electric baseboards are expensive to operate is that electricity costs two to four times as much as natural gas. One advantage of electric heat is the ease with which rooms can be zoned. But with the high fuel cost and hidden emissions, it’s difficult to justify except in special situations, such as isolated rooms, or extremely mild climates like southern Florida or Hawaii. Because these systems are so simple, there is very little that can be done to improve their efficiency. Short of supplementing or completely replacing them, the best approach (as always) is to insulate and thoroughly seal the building to reduce heating loads.		\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic6.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic6\" alt=\"Heating_Pic6\" />											<figcaption>An electric baseboard heater is its own distribution system and is usually precisely in the area where heat is desired, so there are no distribution losses like those found in ductwork.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Supplementing Electric Heat</p>		\n		<p>A great way to reduce the cost of electric, LP or oil heat for a reasonable cost is with the installation of a variable speed ductless heat pump. The best systems are rated with an HSPF of 10 to 12, which means they use 65 percent to 70 percent less electricity per unit of delivered heat. Installing a single mini-split to heat a main living area can save 30 percent to 50 percent of a home’s heating bill (leaving the existing heat for remote rooms in cold weather), at an installed cost of $3,000 to $4,000. Ductless heat pumps also provide air-conditioning much more efficiently than do window units.</p>		\n			<h1>Hot-Water and Steam Boilers</h1>		\n		Boilers, an old standby in the Northeast, are becoming more popular around the country with the advent of radiant, hydro-air, and hybrid systems. Instead of heating air, a boiler heats water. The classic boiler system uses hydronic distribution. Water is heated by the boiler and pumped through pipes to hot-water radiators or baseboard fin-tube convectors to heat the house. Some older systems use a boiler to make steam, which expands to fill steam radiators without the need for a circulator pump. 		\n			<p>Basic maintenance</p>		\n		Boiler maintenance is similar to that of a gas or oil furnace, but there is no blower fan to clean. Oil boilers should be serviced once a year, whereas gas boilers should be serviced every two to four years. Any swishing or gurgling sounds that you hear in the radiators indicate air trapped in the system, which reduces heat-exchange efficiency. A service technician can bleed out the air and show you how to do it if it is needed frequently. Occasionally, bleed valves may need to be installed or replaced. The technician should check the hydronic system pressure and expansion tank; the smallest leak anywhere in the system should be repaired immediately to prevent corrosion-causing oxygen from being brought in via makeup water connections.		\n			<p>Boiler controls and upgrades</p>		\n		A typical hot-water boiler operates throughout the winter with a water temperature determined by the low-limit setting, a thermostatic switch that senses the water temperature inside the boiler and shuts off the burner when the water is hot enough. Standard boiler controls maintain full boiler temperature throughout the year, which is inefficient but necessary if a tankless coil water heater heats the domestic hot water. In the absence of a tankless coil, efficient boiler controls have a “cold start” feature that heats the boiler water only when it’s needed, and a “purge” control that runs the circulating pump for a few minutes after the boiler shuts off, to extract any heat that remains inside. These controls, often standard or optional on new, high-efficiency models, can also be retrofitted to existing boilers—but you have to be careful. Cold-start boilers must be protected from condensing on start-up, which may take some extra piping and a thermic valve (made by DanfossR or Termovar) to maintain adequate return-water temperature. Many newer boilers designed for cold starting have this protection built in.\nAnother improvement for older boilers that don’t have good controls is a mechanical vent damper. This device closes off the flue pipe after the burner shuts off, stopping the flow of heat through the heat exchanger and up the chimney. It costs $125 to $350 installed. Don’t use a gravity-actuated vent damper that depends on the heat from the burner to stay open; they are much more likely to malfunction.\n			<p>Steam boilers</p>		\n		Steam boilers are very different from hot water boilers. Steam systems were popular in the early 20th century, and many of them are still in service in older homes. Instead of relying on pumps to circulate hot water, steam boilers boil water to create steam. The steam naturally expands to fill all the pipes and radiators in the system, distributing heat throughout the house. Although steam-heat distribution is simple and reliable, steam boilers have a number of unique maintenance and efficiency issues. Most residential steam systems are one-pipe systems. When the thermostat calls for heat, the boiler fires and steam begins expanding to fill the system. As the steam expands, it displaces air contained in the pipes and radiators, and that air must be allowed to escape through air vents typically located on the side of each radiator. Once the steam reaches the radiator, the air vent senses the heat and closes, keeping the steam inside. As the steam emits heat through the radiator, it condenses to water and flows back via gravity through the same pipes to the boiler.\nAir-venting systems that aren’t working properly can lead to uneven heating, large temperature fluctuations, and discomfort. A tune-up can increase energy efficiency and comfort dramatically. If the air vents are too small, if there are not enough of them, or if they are clogged with mineral deposits, air gets trapped in the system, and the steam cannot reach its destination. Having a professional replace malfunctioning air vents, add extra vents to radiators, or add special high-volume air vents to large central supply pipes can improve steam-system efficiency by quickly getting the heat where it is needed. Thermostatically controlled vents can reduce the rate of steam delivery to some rooms, reducing overheating and improving overall comfort.\nA common problem with steam systems is too much pressure. The boiler pressure controls should be set just high enough so that the boiler shuts down just as each radiator fills with steam. Too much steam pressure increases the boiler’s cycling losses and leads to overheating. That can particularly be a problem if the building envelope’s efficiency is improved dramatically and/or some radiators are removed during remodeling. Timed-cycle controllers vary the boiler cycle length to match the outdoor temperature, further improving the system’s efficiency.\n			<h1>Upgrading or Replacing Heating Equipment</h1>		\n		Replacing a heating system with a newer, more efficient system is expensive, so it will typically have a long payback. However, if you have to replace a broken furnace or boiler, it is almost always cost-effective to select a high-efficiency system. However efficient (or inefficient) a house shell is, replacing a furnace from the mid-1980s or earlier with a 95-percent-efficient unit will save between 20 percent and 25 percent of the heating bill. Replacing an old boiler can save even more. On the other hand, if you have a 15-year-old unit that’s rated between 80-percent and 85-percent efficient, the savings will be much smaller. It’s probably better to spend your money on other efficiency projects. Finally, if you are planning a series of efficiency improvements to the house, it can be a good idea to complete them before upgrading equipment—you may be able to save some money by installing a smaller unit. If your existing heating system is functional but appears to be on its last legs, replacing it early can help avoid a big surprise. Deciding, rather than being forced, to replace a system reduces the panic factor and allows for a more reasoned choice. It may even reduce the cost a bit, because it won’t be an emergency call.		\n			<p>Efficiency ratings</p>		\n		<p>All new boilers and furnaces have standardized efficiency ratings, just like the gas-mileage ratings on automobiles. When selecting equipment, look for the highest efficiency ratings. Furnaces and boilers use Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE), which accounts for burner efficiency, pilot fuel, and off-cycle losses. New gas furnaces and boilers have AFUEs of 80 per-cent to 97 percent. AFUE ratings are available from manufacturers or at <a href=\"http://www.ahridirectory.org\">www.ahridirectory.org</a>. Air-source heat pumps are rated using HSPF; GSHPs are rated using COP. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and Department of Energy (DOE) maintain a listing of high-efficiency equipment on their Energy Star website (<a href=\"http://www.energystar.gov/\">www.energystar.gov/</a> products); always look for the Energy Star label, which indicates that the equipment meets certain above-minimum efficiency standards set by the government. Remember that the ratings apply to only the equipment. Installation problems, improper maintenance, and distribution problems (such as duct leakage) can reduce performance dramatically. Also remember that there are many products that exceed the Energy Star minimum standards; it’s still worth shopping for the highest-efficiency unit you can find.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Heating_Pic7.png\" title=\"Heating_Pic7\" alt=\"Heating_Pic7\" />											<figcaption>The yellow Energy Guide label indicates the efficiency rating of new equipment and provides a comparison among similar models.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Heating','','inherit','closed','closed','','2075-revision-v1','','','2018-07-24 15:09:37','2018-07-24 15:09:37','',2075,'http://ee.ene.org/2075-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2097,4,'2018-07-24 15:15:56','2018-07-24 15:15:56','<h2><p>Air-Conditioning</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Cooling Basics</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Reducing Loads</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Maintenance And Upgrades</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">New Air-Conditioning Systems</a></p>\n			<h1>Cooling Basics</h1>		\n		Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads—and bills—benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.		\n			<p>Where does the heat come from?</p>		\n		In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it’s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it’s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\n			<p>How air conditioners work</p>		\n		Virtually all residential air-conditioning systems use a compressor-driven refrigerant vapor cycle to cool house air. The compressor cycle controls refrigerant temperatures in the condenser and evaporator coils, which absorb heat from indoor air at a low temperature, then reject it outdoors at a higher temperature. Air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators all use the refrigerant vapor cycle to essentially push heat uphill, from a cooler place to a warmer place. An air conditioner pushes heat from the cool indoors to the hot outdoors, cooling the interior. In addition to sending indoor heat outdoors, an air conditioner must also reject the heat generated by the compressor and fan motors.\nAnother aspect of air conditioners is their ability to dehumidify, as well as cool, indoor air. This happens when water condenses on the cold fins of the evaporator coil as humid air passes across them. Dehumidification is an important component in maintaining healthy indoor air quality and comfort. Water that is evaporated in air contains quite a bit of heat energy, which must be accounted for in the system’s design. The energy required to remove excess humidity is called latent load, and it comes from moisture sources within the home and, in humid climates, outdoor air leaking indoors.\n			<h1>Reducing Loads</h1>		\n		With cooling, just as with heating, as the loads are reduced you spend less to stay comfortable. Think of the air conditioner as removing heat that builds up, rather than “cooling down” the house. The better you are at preventing heat from building up, the less heat your air conditioner must remove and the less time it will have to run—saving you money. There are two approaches to reducing cooling loads: reducing\nyour need for cooling and reducing heat gains in your house.\n			<p>Reduce the need for cooling</p>		\n		One surefire way to cut cooling costs is to use your air conditioner less. A house with more insulation, better windows, and less air leakage is comfortable with no air-conditioning for more of the summer. Setting the thermostat higher, particularly when the house is empty, reduces the system’s run time and saves energy. \nFans can also help raise the temperature at which you feel comfortable. By installing an efficient ceiling fan and keeping the air moving in occupied rooms, most people can comfort- ably increase the temperature setting of their thermostat by 4°F to 6°F, saving 20 percent to 35 percent on their cooling bills. Fan flow\nshould point downward to maximize the feeling of air movement in the room. Oscillating and box fans can also provide portable comfort. When using any type of indoor fan, remember that it will keep people cool only while they are in the room. Turn off fans when you are not using them, because they generate heat.\nCeiling-mounted whole-house fans that exhaust into the attic are another popular method to reduce the need for cooling, but they must be used properly to be effective. Air leaks between the attic and house must be sealed, and the attic must be well vented to the exterior, to ensure that the fan exhaust goes outdoors rather than back into the house.\n			<p>Duct insulation and sealing</p>		\n		Air-conditioning ducts have the same leakage and insulation issues as those of heating ducts. In fact, leaks and missing insulation in attic ductwork hurt air-conditioning systems more than heating systems, because during peak cooling times attics are usually much hotter than outdoor ambient temperatures. All air conditioning ducts in attics, crawlspaces, and garages should be thoroughly sealed and insulated		\n			<h1>Maintenance and Upgrades</h1>		\n		Like most other equipment, air conditioners need regular maintenance and service. Some things you can probably do yourself, whereas others require a professional technician.		\n			<p>Airflow</p>		\n		Like heat pumps and furnaces, air-conditioning systems depend on adequate airflow to remove heat efficiently from your house. Whether you have a central air conditioner or individual room units, check the filters regularly and clean or replace them when they are dirty— once or twice a season should be adequate. Because airflow is important, do not shut off any of the supply registers in the system—\nespecially if the ducts are located in an attic, garage, or crawlspace.\n			<p>Cleaning air coils</p>		\n		When filters don’t work properly or air gets around them, the evaporator coil can become clogged with dirt and dust. Depending on the system, you may need a service technician to access the coil. If you can reach it yourself, lift the dirt from behind with a stiff brush. Be careful not to drive dirt further in or bend the fins. The outdoor condenser coil should also be kept clean and free of dirt and debris. Don’t spray water directly at the coil, which may drive dirt deeper into the space between the fins. Instead, using a long-bristle brush with flexible bristles, carefully insert the bristles between the fins, and lift the dirt from behind. 		\n			<p>Regular service</p>		\n		Regular service calls—typically every two to three years—should include testing the controls, checking and cleaning the blower, condenser, and evaporator coils as needed, checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines, and checking the condensate drain. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing any airflow problems, and then carefully measuring and correcting the refrigerant charge. Like a heat pump, once that has been done, service technicians should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless there is evidence that something is wrong. Like a heat pump, an over- or undercharged air conditioner is less efficient (particularly older models), and systems are often improperly charged. Airflow must be in the recommended range of 400 CFM to 425 CFM per ton before the refrigerant charge can be measured. \n			<h1>New Air-Conditioning Systems</h1>		\n		If you live in a hot climate and have central air conditioning that is 20 years old or more, replacing your system with a new, energy-efficient model should pay for itself in a reasonable time. High-efficiency systems on the market today are more than twice as efficient as systems from the 1980s. But before running out and replacing your system, you will first need to do two other things: Finish any upgrades on the building enclosure, and become familiar with air conditioning products and installation criteria. Of course, if you have a fairly new system (less than 10 years old), it is probably more cost effective to maintain it and keep it running as efficiently as possible until it wears out. As always, energy-efficient upgrades always cost the least when you are fixing or replacing something anyway. If your old air conditioner is on its last legs or not operating, replace it with the most efficient unit you can find.\n			<p>High-efficiency air-conditioning</p>		\n		New central air conditioners are rated for energy performance with a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER). SEER ratings are measurements under standardized test conditions of Btu per hour of cooling output, divided by input watts. The higher the SEER, the more efficient the system. New central air conditioners are required to have a SEER rating of at least 13; the most efficient units have SEER ratings from 16 to 23. Some of the best high efficiency systems have two-speed compressors; the lower speed provides better, more efficient cooling and dehumidification under mild, part load conditions. When you are replacing a central air conditioning unit with a more efficient one, it’s very important to match the new outdoor unit and the indoor evaporator coil. You may be able to save some money on the installation by keeping your old coil but be careful: you’re unlikely to get the full efficiency ratings of the new unit. If you get a proposal to replace only the outdoor unit, the contractor should be able to demonstrate that the existing indoor coil is listed for use with the new outdoor unit; don’t accept “don’t worry, it’s fine the way it is” as an answer.\n			<p>Sizing a system</p>		\n		Proper sizing has been emphasized as a key efficiency issue for years in the energy-efficiency world, but there’s little evidence that it affects operating costs very much. Duct leakage and insulation in unconditioned spaces are far more important, especially with modern, high efficiency equipment. \nOversized air conditioners do cost more to buy and maintain and require more airflow and larger ductwork. Dehumidification, which depends on air flowing through the evaporator coil for enough time to extract condensed moisture, is one important reason to carefully size an air conditioning system in humid climates. When an oversized system runs for only a few minutes, the moisture may just start to collect on the coils before the thermostat is satisfied. Once the unit shuts down, the moisture re-evaporates into the house. An air conditioner that is too large by 50 percent to 100 percent will be unable to control humidity effectively, so people may tend to set the thermostat lower to compensate. Many new, efficient air conditioners have multiple speeds or special dehumidification modes that can effectively compensate for oversizing; if you are in a humid climate, consider one of these features, or get a stand-alone dehumidifier.\nCorrect load calculations are based on your home’s window size, the glass type, and the size and R-values of the walls and roof. The proper size also varies with the direction the home faces: Sometimes a 90-degree rotation can cut the cooling load in half. If a contractor gives you a price for an air conditioner on the phone, or simply offers to replace the existing unit with a new one of the same size, get a bid from someone else, especially if you have already made energy improvements in your house. The money\nyou save by buying a smaller unit may pay for an efficiency upgrade.\nWhen installing a new air conditioner, shop for value, not just for price. Other things to look for when assessing bids on new air-conditioning equipment include the warranties (from both the manufacturer and the installer), service contracts, longevity of the business, customer references, and technician knowledge. Try to find a contractor who is an Energy Star partner and/or NATE certified, or regularly attends manufacturer’s trainings.\n		Ductless mini-split air conditioners are a great alternative to window units. They are more efficient and quieter, and they don’t use up a window (or allow air leakage). The most efficient units on the market are\nalso heat pumps that can save money on your heating bills, too. A mini-split costs about 10 times as much as a decent window unit, but may cost a third to a half as much as retrofitting central air into an existing home.\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Air Conditioning','','inherit','closed','closed','','48-revision-v1','','','2018-07-24 15:15:56','2018-07-24 15:15:56','',48,'http://ee.ene.org/48-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2098,4,'2018-07-24 15:18:05','2018-07-24 15:18:05','<h2><p>Appliances & Lighting</p></h2>		\n		<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances’ energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.</p><p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Reducing Run Time</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Improving Efficiency</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Buying Appliances</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Smart Shopping for New Appliances</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Lighting</a></p>		\n			<h1>Reducing Run Time</h1>		\n		Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don’t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It’s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back\nwhen temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more—provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don’t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative\nhumidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\n			<h1>Improving Efficiency</h1>		\n		It’s also possible to improve the efficiency of some appliances. Efficiency can often be increased by simple maintenance or by choosing the proper settings when using appliances.\nRefrigeration The refrigerator is typically the biggest electricity user in the kitchen and is often the largest in the house. If your refrigerator is getting old, it’s probably worth replacing it with a new Energy Star model. New, efficient refrigerators use less than half the energy of standard models before 1993. If you are lucky enough to have a refrigerator that dates back to the 1970s or early 1980s and it still runs, take it\nto the recycle center. Even if it’s the spare in the basement or garage, the energy savings will pay\nfor a brand-new unit in just a few years. And buy the smallest, simplest fridge that will meet your\nneeds; large Energy Star models use more electricity than smaller ones; through-door ice and\nwater also use energy.\n To keep any refrigerator running right, ensure adequate air circulation around the unit. Keep it a few inches away from the wall, and don’t box it in with cabinets. It’s a good idea to vacuum the grill periodically, but there is no evidence that vacuuming dust off the coils inside actually saves electricity. Make sure the door seals are tight, keep the unit away from heat sources (don’t put it next\nto the stove or dishwasher) and check the temperature setting. The refrigerator compartments\nshould stay between 38°F and 42°F, and the freezer between 0°F and 5°F. If you have a power-saving switch, use it. Typically, the switch disables internal heaters that fight condensation; turn it off only if condensation occurs. Finally, keep refrigerators and freezers reasonably full; they are less efficient when they are nearly empty. Even more important, avoid the temptation to keep the old fridge in the garage\nor basement for overflow (or the odd six-pack). Buying a new, highly efficient refrigerator won’t save any energy if you keep the old one running!\nIt’s a common mistake to assume that if the fridge is only keeping a few items cold it’s not working very hard. A refrigerator uses most of its energy keeping the inside of the box cold—even if it’s completely empty. If you can’t do without it, unplug the spare until you need it to stock up for that holiday gathering. One more buying tip: A manual-defrost chest freezer uses far less energy than an upright, auto-defrost\nunit. Modern, airtight chest freezers rarely need defrosting, and are less likely to damage food\nwith freezer burn.\n			<h1>Buying Appliances</h1>		\n			<p>Laundry</p>		\n		Washing clothes uses energy in three ways: Washers and dryers have motors that move clothes and water; washers use hot water, which is heated with gas or electricity; and dryers heat clothes to dry them out. When you do a load of laundry, pay attention to the washer settings. Always use a cold-water rinse, and use a warm or cold wash for loads when you can. A warm/ cold cycle uses about half as much total energy as a hot/cold cycle. Also, pay attention to the size of the load; fill, but don’t overload, the machine for best efficiency. If you do run a smaller load, set the wash level appropriately. The settings on your washer also affect drying time. Use the fastest spin setting whenever you can, to remove the most water.\n For dryer efficiency, keep the lint filter clean, and check the outlet periodically for lint that may be clogging the vent. If your dryer hose is kinked, twisted, or too long, replace it with as short and direct a run as possible, preferably with a straight sheet-metal duct instead of a flexible vinyl or aluminum duct. Try to run several loads in succession to take advantage of retained heat, and fill, but don’t overload, the machine. Of course, if the weather’s good, you can also dry clothes outside on a line. \n			<p>Dishwasher</p>		\n		You can minimize dishwasher energy by paying attention to the settings. Don’t use the “Heavy” or “Pots and Pans” cycle unless you really need to. A fast scraping or rinsing of dishes (especially starchy stuff) does help the dishwasher do a better job, so you can use the “Light” setting. But always use cold water for pre-rinsing. Use a premium dishwasher detergent, and let the dishwasher do the job it’s designed for: cutting grease. Wait until the machine is full before using it: It uses the same amount of energy whether you wash one dish or thirty. Many new dishwashers have sensors that stop the machine as particulates in the water clear (indicating that the dishes are clean). If you don’t have to take the dishes out right away, you can run the machine with the “Air-Dry” setting (sometimes called “Energy Saver”).\nIt’s okay to use the dishwasher: In fact, research shows that even careful hand washing uses more hot water and soap than a modern dishwasher. And today’s very efficient dishwashers are reasonably priced—there are Energy Star–rated dishwashers at every point in the price spectrum.\nsize of the load; fill, but don’t overload, the machine for best efficiency. If you do run a smaller load, set the wash level appropriately. The settings on your washer also affect drying time. Use the fastest spin setting whenever you can, to remove the most water.\nFor dryer efficiency, keep the lint filter clean, and check the outlet periodically for lint that may be clogging the vent. If your dryer hose is kinked, twisted, or too long, replace it with as short and direct a run as possible, preferably with a straight sheet-metal duct instead of a flexible vinyl or aluminum duct. Try to run several loads in succession to take advantage of retained heat, and fill, but don’t overload, the machine. Of course, if the weather’s good, you can also dry clothes outside on a line.		\n			<h1>Smart Shopping for New Appliances</h1>		\n		<p>Minimum efficiency regulations for new appliances have increased over the years, so even the least-efficient new models typically use much less energy than appliances that are 10 or more years old.<br />In most cases, it’s not cost-effective to go out and buy new, energy-efficient products just to save energy. Two exceptions to this rule are older refrigerators and dehumidifiers. For other appliances, look for the most efficient products available when you do go shopping—and always choose an Energy Star–labeled appliance at a minimum. It’s worth some research in advance; even within the Energy Star labeling program, there can be a wide range of efficiency. For example, to get an Energy Star label, refrigerators<br />must save at least 20 percent over federal standards, but some models save over 50 percent. Also, minimum requirements vary with features: A side-by-side model with through-door ice can use almost 50 percent more than a top-freezer model without ice—even though both are Energy Star rated. Listings of efficiency levels by model number for most Energy Star products are available at www.energystar.gov/products.</p>		\n			<h1>Lighting</h1>		\n		There are two basic approaches to making the lights in your home more efficient: eliminate unnecessary usage and use the most efficient products available. Many of us heard the message “turn off lights when you’re not using them” while we were growing up. Of course, how much light you need is a matter of eyesight and personal taste. Turning off a light isn’t always a practical solution, except when you leave the\nroom—then there’s no excuse. One of the best ways to eliminate unnecessary light usage is with controls. Regularly used indoor lights can be put on timers or occupancy sensors so they aren’t left on for hours when no one is using them. Exterior walkway and security lighting can be put on a combination of\ntimers, motion sensors, or photocell controls to minimize their use while ensuring that they are\non whenever needed.\n			<p>LED Lighting</p>		\n		<p>LED lighting technology is developing rapidly. In just a few years, a number of good-quality LEDs have become available (though they are still expensive). The products will keep getting better, and prices will continue to drop, over the next few years at least. LEDs are fundamentally different than other light sources. An LED is a semiconductor—basically, a tiny computer chip—that generates light. LEDs have been around for decades in electronic equipment displays and status lights, but by nature a single LED generates a focused point-source of light in a single, saturated color such as red, yellow, or blue. Getting an LED to look like an incandescent bulb is a challenge; most manufacturers combine many LEDs of different colors to approximate warm, yellow-white light and to disperse the light in a useful pattern.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Appliances','','inherit','closed','closed','','2013-revision-v1','','','2018-07-24 15:18:05','2018-07-24 15:18:05','',2013,'http://ee.ene.org/2013-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2099,4,'2018-07-24 15:20:35','2018-07-24 15:20:35','<h2><p>Hot Water Heaters</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Maintenance and Efficiency Upgrades</a></p>\n<a href=\"#anchor02\">Replacing Hot Water Systems</a>\n			<h1>Maintenance and Efficiency Upgrades</h1>		\n		The vast majority of homes in the United States have stand-alone water heaters. These are independent hot-water storage tanks with their own heat source, with the sole function of providing domestic hot water. A home that is heated by a boiler is likely to have a tankless coil or an indirect-fired storage tank. Standard gas water heaters are cheap and inefficient. They are typically expected to last only 5 to 15 years, so most people do not invest much money in them. Replacing a water heater tends to be an emergency event, full of stress because the old water heater has suddenly failed. Proper maintenance can extend the life of a water heater, and some efficiency improvements can be made to existing tanks with minimal investment; but if you have a standard water heater made before 2005, it may make more sense to upgrade to a very high-efficiency unit and not try to make the old one last longer. If your present water heater appears to be near the end of its useful life, now is the time to do research on the right type of replacement unit. Then you will be well prepared, whether you decide to wait until the old one goes or to replace the tank at your convenience.		\n			<p>Two types of tanks: Gas and electric</p>		\n		Stand-alone water heaters come in two basic types: gas and electric. Gas water heaters, fired with piped natural or LP gas, are the most common. Gas water heaters are usually smaller than electric water heaters, because their burners produce more heat than an electric heating element. A capacity of 40 to 50 gal. is typical for most houses.\nElectric water heaters in single-family homes often hold 50 to 80 gal. Electric water heaters don’t require a fuel supply in the house, so they are a common choice for homes where piped natural gas is unavailable and where a heat pump provides the space heating.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Hot-Water_heaters_Pic1.png\" title=\"Hot-Water_heaters_Pic1\" alt=\"Hot-Water_heaters_Pic1\" />											<figcaption>Typically, gas water heaters don’t have degree markings, but the recommended target temperature of 120°F is usually between “Warm” and “Medium.” It may take some trial and error to find a setting that’s just right.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Setting the temperature</p>		\n		The temperature of many hot-water heaters can be lowered without any noticeable reduction in the hot-water supply. Lowering the temperature of stored hot water saves energy by reducing conductive heat loss through the tank surfaces, called standby loss. Standby losses depend on the location of the tank (how cold it is outside the tank), how well the tank is insulated, and where the tank is located (in a cold climate, most losses in the winter just contribute to heating the house). The better insulated the tank and the greater your hot-water use, the less savings a temperature setback will provide.\nReducing the temperature setting by 10°F may save 2 percent to 5 percent of your water heating costs. The investment is $0, and it’s easy to readjust if you turn it down too much. In addition to energy savings, a lower tank temperature reduces scaling and corrosion and increases the life of the tank. The thermostat knob on a gas water heater is usually located at the front of the gas valve. Look carefully at the markings; on many gas water heaters, counterclockwise rotation increases the temperature setting. Electric tanks have two thermostats—one for each element—located behind metal covers near the bottom and the top of the tank. Because there is exposed wiring inside, shut off the circuit breaker before unscrewing the covers. Set both elements to about the same temperature, or set the top element just slightly cooler so the bottom element activates first.\nHot water stored below 120°F may increase the risk of Legionella pneumophili bacteria, which can cause pneumonia. But Legionella infections in single-family homes are quite rare compared to the risk of scalding, which increases rapidly at tank temperatures over 120°F. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission recommends all home water heaters be set at 120°F, and even at that temperature third degree burns can occur with exposures of five minutes or more. Antiscald mixing valves can help keep children and elders, who are at higher risk for burns, safe.\n			<p>Insulating hot-water pipes</p>		\n		Hot-water pipes lose energy in two ways: through conductive losses in pipe walls while hot water is running and through thermosiphon effects.  Pipe insulation is readily available at most home centers and hardware stores and is easy to install. The biggest benefit from pipe insulation occurs within the first 10 ft. of the tank. Be sure to use the right diameter of insulation; most homes have a mixture of 1⁄2-in. and 3⁄4-in. pipes, so it’s a good idea to measure how much of each you will need.		\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Hot-Water_Heaters_Pic2.png\" title=\"Hot-Water_Heaters_Pic2\" alt=\"Hot-Water_Heaters_Pic2\" />											<figcaption>The most common pipe insulation is made from polyethylene and is widely available at hardware stores and home centers.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Maintenance\n</p>		\n		There are two basic maintenance operations that can increase a tank’s lifespan. One is to regularly flush out debris and scale, which can also improve the efficiency of your tank by improving heat transfer. Annually flushing water through the drain valve at the bottom can help wash away the crud. Don’t try to drain the tank; the force of the cold-water pressure helps stir up the material. But you might want to shut off the heater overnight before doing this, to avoid wasting gallons of hot water. Unfortunately, most drain valves that are installed at the factory don’t allow much sediment to pass through, so it’s better to replace it with a full-flow ball valve. Flushing is also more effective if the tank has a dip tube with a curve at the bottom that swirls incoming water around the base of the tank.\nThe other thing that can be done to extend the life of a water heater is to replace the anode rod periodically. The anode rod, typically made of magnesium formed around steel wire, is designed to corrode before the steel tank does. Once the magnesium material has decomposed or is covered with scale, the anode stops working and the tank will start to deteriorate. Anode rods are designed to last for about 5 years, depending, of course, on the water: typically, just a little longer than the tank’s warranty. You will probably need a heavy-duty socket wrench with a breaker bar to unthread the anode rod. Don’t try to remove it until you have a new replacement rod handy. And be very careful not to damage the tank or the water fittings when removing the rod. Replacement anode rods are available at plumbing supply houses for $20 to $40. Of course, you will need to shut off the tank and the incoming water supply, and partially empty the tank before replacing an anode rod.\n			<h1>Replacing Hot-Water Systems</h1>		\n		When it is time to buy a new hot-water heater, it makes sense to install the most efficient replacement system possible. But choosing a water heater can be confusing; there are many different styles of high-efficiency units with competing claims of superiority. Which type will work best for you depends on the type of hot water and heating systems already in your house. If you have a furnace, then you will need some type of independent, stand-alone water heater. If you have a hot-water boiler, it usually makes sense to use it for water heating, especially if the boiler is a newer, efficient model. Stand-alone, standard LP-gas, or oil-fired water heaters are the most expensive to operate; if you have one of these, or if you heat your house with electric resistance or a heat pump, you might benefit from either a super-high-efficiency condensing water heater, a heat pump water heater (HPWH; or a solar water-heating system).\n			<p>Water-heater efficiency</p>		\n		There are three basic types of replacement water heaters that work on their own (without a boiler): storage tanks, on-demand units (sometimes called tankless water heaters), and heat pump water heaters. Any of these types except the heat pump are available in either gas or electric models. Most have high-efficiency versions, and all have pros and cons. Every new water heater has an efficiency rating (called an energy\nfactor, or EF) listed with AHRI. Today’s water heaters have EFs that range from about 0.50 to 0.97 (except for heat pumps); try to get a water heater with the highest EF rating for the type of application you need.\n			<p>Tank-type water heaters</p>		\n		Most standard gas water heaters have EF ratings in the high 50s—that means over 40 percent of the energy is wasted. Until recently, the highest efficiency tank-type units you could buy were in the low 60s; most had efficient burners, electronic pilots, and high insulation levels. There is a new generation of high-efficiency tank-type water heaters emerging that have higher energy factors. For example, the KenmoreR Elite uses a special air intake and other features to achieve an EF of 0.7. Both the Kenmore and the RheemR Fury (0.67 EF) use electronic vent dampers. Although not the highest efficiency available, these products provide a sizable performance boost at a modest price increase over a standard gas water heater.\nThe most efficient units on the market are condensing gas water heaters; they typically have EF ratings of 0.90 or higher. The best ones have stainless-steel tanks and high firing rates—typically around 90,000 to 120,000 Btu per hour, two to three times that of a typical tank. Because of their high cost—roughly $1,500 to $2,500—condensing water heaters may be more appropriate for supplying whole-house heating as well as hot water. Their high heat output makes them well suited for supplying a hydro-air system. A hydro-air handler used in conjunction with a condensing gas water heater is probably one of the most efficient replacements for an old, inefficient gas furnace and a standard electric or gas water-heating tank, especially if you have piped natural gas and live in a cold or mixed climate. Standard electric tank-type water heaters appear to be more efficient than gas units, with EFs ranging from about 0.86 to 0.95. \n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Hot-Water_Heaters_Pic3.png\" title=\"Hot-Water_Heaters_Pic3\" alt=\"Hot-Water_Heaters_Pic3\" />											<figcaption>All new water heaters are required to have an Energy Guide label, which compares the energy use of this model to that of similar models. Buyers beware: “Energy Saver” is a common name found on water heaters, but it can be almost meaningless. Few water heaters have their EF rating listed on the tank, but you can look it up in the AHRI directory online.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n		The energy factor, or EF rating, is based on a standardized test that takes into account burner efficiency, pilot usage, and standby losses for “typical” hot-water usage. EF ratings for gas, oil, and electric water\nheaters can be found at www.ahridirectory.org under “residential water heaters.” The directory\nalso shows first-hour ratings and the burner efficiency, which is called “recovery efficiency.”\n			<p>Tankless water heaters</p>		\n		At the other end of the spectrum is the tankless or on-demand water heater. The premise of a tankless water heater is to save energy by eliminating the storage tank and its associated standby losses, using a large gas burner to heat water only when you need it. (Don’t confuse this with a tankless water-heating coil that’s run from a boiler; these waste far more energy by keeping the boiler hot all year.)\nOn-demand water heaters have higher EF ratings than conventional water heaters. Gas on-demand water heaters fall into two groups: those with standard gas burners and EF ratings in the low 80s, and those with condensing burners and EFs in the 90s. Savings will be lower than the EF ratings (and marketing literature) indicate, about $80 to $100 per year (assuming national average of $1.20/therm). The modest savings make it hard to recoup your investment in a reasonable time: Tankless water heaters cost between $800 and $1,500. Installation cost is also likely to be high; larger gas lines are typically needed, and in many cases new electrical service. Other advantages of tankless water heaters are their small size and their ability to provide hot water continuously, but there are some drawbacks as well. The burner starts when a hot-water tap is opened, by sensing the drop in pressure, so some cold water always flows into the heat exchanger at first. If you use hot water intermittently, or take a shower right after another family member, you may end up with surprise “slug” of cold water each time. The total flow of hot water in GPM is also limited by the burner capacity, so sizing these units is less forgiving than water heaters with some storage. Some tankless units have small storage tanks built in to reduce these troubles, or an external tank can be added.\nFinally, on-demand water heaters are sensitive to minerals—if you have hard water, the annual service that’s needed will cut into the savings. I don’t generally recommend on-demand units for most existing-tank replacements, but these heaters can make sense in a major renovation. Electric tankless heaters are also available, but they are not typically suitable for whole-house service\n			<p>Indirect-fired tank (with boiler)</p>		\n		If you heat your house with a hot-water boiler, an indirect-fired water heater can generate hot water more efficiently than a tankless coil or most stand-alone units. The storage tank contains a thermostat that requests heat from the boiler, just like a separate heating zone. To get the best efficiency from an indirect storage tank, the boiler has to have the right controls: It needs to be set up for “cold start” and should also include a purge cycle. Generally, the control should also include a 30-minute hot-water priority. This ensures that you always have hot water, even on a cold morning when the boiler is needed for space heating.\nMany indirect-fired tanks have a built-in heat exchanger. Boiler water is pumped through the heat exchanger, heating water in the tank without mixing boiler water with the potable water supply. Alternatively, almost any type of insulated storage tank can be combined with an external heat exchanger to produce hot water from a boiler. An external heat exchanger requires two circulating pumps, adding a small electrical load. But when the unit is properly sized, the heat transfer is very efficient. All piping between the boiler and the storage tank must be thoroughly insulated to minimize heat loss, including any external heat exchanger (don’t insulate pump bodies). Indirect tanks have AHRI efficiency ratings, but they don’t have EF ratings like other water heaters. This is because any boiler can provide the heat\nsource with a wide range of efficiencies. Indirect tanks are rated for “standby loss” in a range from 0.4 to over 1.0; try to aim for 0.8 or less. Smaller tanks tend to have higher losses per hour, but they are cheaper and take up less space. Look for the lowest standby loss available with a first-hour rating that suits your needs.\n			<p>Heat pump water heaters</p>		\n		The heat pump water heater is based on a great concept: Use electricity to extract heat from the air and deliver it to the hot water at a higher temperature. The heat extracted from the air is free, and theoretically the net efficiency could be 300 percent or more. Early models had trouble with reliability, service, and price, but a new generation of HPWHs has emerged that seems to offer better efficiency and reliability at a price range of about $1,300 to $2,000. HPWHs have EFs in the range of 2.0 to 2.5, which means that more than half the heat comes from the environment around the heater. There are a number of factors that affect the real installed efficiency. First, controls in most units allow for resistance heat to turn on when demand is high or surrounding air temperatures are low; this can really cut into the overall efficiency, depending on how the control is set and how you use hot water. The most efficient units have smaller electric backup heaters (less than 2,500 watts) and run the heat pump even while the resistance heat is on. Larger tanks also tend to run more efficiently than small tanks. Also, the heat comes from the air around the tank. If you live in a cold climate, that heat may not be free: If the tank is in a conditioned space, you’ve already paid to heat it up. If it’s in an unconditioned basement, the air may get cold and efficiency will suffer. At the same time, air that is exhausted from the heat pump is cool and dry, so running an HPWH in a basement may reduce dehumidification needs. Some units allow for a duct to divert the chilled air output outdoors in cold weather. Of course, in a warm climate a HPWH will help cool your house, saving even more on your electric bills. The bottom line is this: If you are looking to replace an existing electric or LP-gas water heater, consider getting a HPWH if you live in a mixed or hot climate. Average savings should be around $300 per year, so payback on the $1,000 to $1,500 increased cost is fairly reasonable. Savings may be higher where electric rates are higher than average, even in colder climates. Savings will tend to be largest when hot-water use is high.		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"160\" height=\"501\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Hot_Water_Heater_Pic4.png\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Hot_Water_Heater_Pic4.png 160w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Hot_Water_Heater_Pic4-96x300.png 96w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 160px) 100vw, 160px\" />											<figcaption>This “hybrid” heat pump water heater produces hot water at a savings of about 50 percent when compared to conventional electric water heaters. Alternately, some units are designed as an add-on retrofit to an existing tank.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Hot Water Heaters','','inherit','closed','closed','','1984-revision-v1','','','2018-07-24 15:20:35','2018-07-24 15:20:35','',1984,'http://ee.ene.org/1984-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2100,4,'2018-07-24 15:22:39','2018-07-24 15:22:39','Insulation\r\n\r\nFrom the attic to the basement, insulation is like a down jacket around your house that keeps you warm in the winter (and, like a thermos, cool in the summer). In many houses, it is probably easier to insulate than it is to seal air leaks, though it’s a big job if you need to insulate exterior walls. Attics are relatively easy to insulate, and most houses can benefit from some added insulation. Regardless of the age of your house, don’t be fooled just because there’s some insulation in the attic—even if it looks like a lot. Some homes have a thin layer that does little good; others have insulation that was installed in only the areas that were easy to reach. Even newer homes that have a lot of insulation can still have significant gaps and installation problems that are worth fixing—by someone who cares enough about the details to do it right.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor01\">Attic Insulation</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor02\">Sloped Ceilings</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor03\">Insulating Walls</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor04\">Insulating Floors</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor05\">Insulating Foundation Walls</a>\r\n<h1>Attic Insulation</h1>\r\nAttics are typically insulated first, and they usually receive the most insulation. People usually assume that attics are insulated because “heat rises,” but heat doesn’t actually rise at all. The reason attics tend to get more insulation is much less glamorous: The attic is simply the cheapest and easiest place to add insulation, in both old and new houses. In fact, in a moderately insulated two-story house, there may be two to four times as much conductive heat loss (not including air leakage or windows) through the exterior walls as through the attic. Perform air-sealing before you insulate, unless you plan to insulate with sprayed foam and complete the air sealing at the same time. Also, if you intend to vent a bath fan, install a ventilation system, change any electrical wiring, or do any other work in the attic, now is the time.\r\n\r\nHow much insulation?\r\n\r\nInsulation is measured in R-value; the higher the R-value, the less heat loss. To some extent, there is an effect of diminishing returns in that the first 6 in. of insulation will save you more money than the next 6 in. But it doesn’t pay to skimp, either. Once you’re up in the attic installing insulation, you may as well do it right. Generally, the minimum recommended R-value for an attic is R-38. In cold northern climates, aim for between R-50 and R-60; in hot climates, R-30 may be adequate.\r\n\r\nFiberglass Batts\r\n\r\nFiberglass batts are typically the insulation of choice for do-it-yourselfers. The material is easy to transport and install by yourself. It’s ideal for an attic where you may want to add living space later (or make other changes), because it is easy to remove and replace. But there is a price to pay for convenience. No matter how carefully you detail fiberglass batts, they rarely work as well as the factory ratings suggest. Because of the annoying, itchy quality of fiberglass, several manufacturers market encapsulated batts that are surrounded by plastic. Steer clear of these products; they’re more of a marketing gimmick than a worthwhile innovation. Encapsulated batts are more expensive and harder to install properly. Although the coverings may make the material more comfortable to work with, they also increase the difficulty of detailing the batts properly.\r\n\r\nBlowing attic insulation\r\n\r\nIf your roof is made with trusses, or the attic has flooring with little or no insulation under it, it’s hard to get good results with fiberglass. In those cases, your best bet is to use a loose-fill material, such as cellulose. One big advantage of blown cellulose is that it is fast and easy to install. You don’t have to worry about cutting, fitting, fluffing, or most of the other details that concern fiberglass batts. You can also cover the top of existing insulation with cellulose, which will settle into all the gaps and spaces between the batts. This improves what’s already there and adds R-value.\r\n\r\nPro Tip\r\n\r\nThe flame-retardant chemicals used to treat cellulose tend to discourage insects and rodents from nesting in it.\r\n\r\nStorage areas\r\n\r\nPeople often use attics for storage. Eliminate attic storage, if possible. There are plenty of good reasons to get rid of stuff (both thermal and psychological). Still, many homes lack storage space, and the attic is a natural place for those boxes of holiday decorations. If you have a partially or fully floored attic, you can set aside an area near the access hatch or stairs by making a dam out of 12-in.-thick fiberglass batts. Insulate the rest of the attic, making sure there is insulation under the floorboards as well. Once the dust has settled, you should be able to move stuff in and out without disturbing the insulation.\r\n<h1>Sloped Ceilings</h1>\r\nMany homes have sloped ceiling areas—places where plaster or drywall is applied directly to the underside of the roof rafters. Examples include Cape-style houses, which usually have sloped ceilings between the knee wall and the flat ceiling above or rooms with partial or full cathedral ceilings. Some homes just have a narrow-sloped area for a few feet near the eaves. These enclosed cavities present more of a challenge than an open attic. Some, like the typical Cape, have fairly easy access from an attic space either above or below. Others, like a full cathedral ceiling, are more difficult. The biggest distinction between dense-packed and open-blown cellulose is that dense-pack is installed in an enclosed cavity. But it’s not enough just to be enclosed—to dense-pack, by definition, means using enough air pressure to compress the material more densely than it could ever compress from settling.\r\nRoof-shingle warranties are another concern. Unvented cathedral ceilings experience hotter roof temperatures—typically by 2 percent to 4 percent—than vented roofs. Because those higher temperatures may accelerate degradation (venting is assumed to reduce roof temperatures), some roofing manufacturers won’t honor warranty claims on unvented, or hot, roofs. But research has shown that shingle color actually has a much larger impact (about 10 percent) on roof temperature than venting does, and several manufacturers do provide warranty service for unvented roofs. Choose one of those, or vent the roof first if shingle-warranty service is important to you.\r\n\r\nReducing moisture risk\r\n\r\nThere are serious concerns relating to venting a cathedral- or flat-roof ceiling space. Good air sealing (which dense-packing helps) and indoor humidity control via mechanical ventilation help reduce condensation and moisture buildup. But even an excellent dense-pack job can allow some air movement. In an unvented cathedral ceiling or flat roof, this can deposit moisture at the roof deck, especially in a home with high humidity. There are two basic strategies to avoid increasing the risk of condensation and potential damage to the roof deck: using foam insulation to control condensing temperatures, and ensuring an opening from the unvented cavities into a larger, vented space. The first approach—using continuous foam insulation—is the only proven, code-approved method for an unvented roof. It can take two basic forms: rigid foam insulation added above and in contact with the roof deck, or sprayed foam added directly to the underside of the roof deck. Rigid foam is typically added during a re-roof, but usually a new sheathing surface (with a furred, vented space in heavy snow areas) is needed on top of the foam. This approach is expensive, but it’s a practical way to address a house with full cathedral ceilings if the roof is close to needing replacement. Consider interior sprayed foam insulation if you are planning extensive interior renovations (see “Renovations” for more discussion). With either foam method, once the roof deck is protected from condensation by a high enough R-value of foam, the remainder of the cavity may be insulated with blown insulation or batt (called “flash and batt”). The R-value of foam insulation depends on climate (see the table on the facing page and the map below). Both of these methods are explicitly allowed by code; both are energy efficient and low risk in any climate. The second approach is to provide a partial venting path for the closed dense-pack area. This can be achieved in homes that have sections of sloped ceilings (such as Cape-style homes) that may be difficult or impossible to vent properly. If one end of the dense-packed area is open to a vented attic space (preferably the top), any wetting effects appear to be balanced by drying toward the vented space. This approach can also be used under low-slope roofs (for example, a row house or shed dormer), where access near the low side is impossible. Experience has shown that up to one-third of the total attic area can be dense-packed without venting, provided that the remaining attic space is vented normally. Note that this method does not conform to standard code requirements but has been accepted by many local building officials. And I would consider this approach much riskier in climate zones 6 to 8. Of course, just as with an open attic floor, you have to be careful to avoid chimneys and non-IC-rated recessed lights. If you have a chimney in a key leak area, you may want to consider using a high-performance fiberglass. You could also open up the ceiling in that area to air-seal the chase with sheet metal.\r\n\r\nHigh Performance Fiberglass\r\n\r\nA new breed of blown-in fiberglass materials is now on the market. High performance fiberglass (such as Johns-Manville Spider® and Knauf Perimeter PlusTM) can be dense packed to reduce air movement as effectively as cellulose in closed cavities. These products have slightly higher R-values than cellulose, but at much lower densities—and lower risk of plaster blow-out. The Building Performance Institute is developing a standard (Standard BPI-3202-T) to qualify other insulation products based on air-leakage control. Because these products are noncombustible, they are also safe to use in cavities adjacent to a chimney or fireplace.\r\nIf you insulate a roof with spray foam and there’s a furnace in the attic, you need to pay attention to combustion air requirements. You should be okay if the furnace is a modern powervented or condensing unit. But if it’s an older atmospheric-vented unit, you may need to add some transfer grilles from the attic into the living space. Better yet, replace the furnace with a high efficiency direct-vent unit.\r\n\r\nExisting Insulation in Older Homes\r\n\r\nMost homes built before the 1930s had no insulation at all, so if your home is from that era, you will be looking for insulation that was added later. It may be blown-in cellulose or urea-formaldehyde foam. If the walls are already insulated, it is rarely worth adding more, unless you find large areas that were never done at all, or if the walls were not insulated properly. If the installed insulation has settled and each wall bay has a large empty space at the top, it may be worth filling them in. Also look out for “back-plastering.” Although unusual, backplastered walls are built with an extra layer of lath and plaster in the middle of the stud space, to add an extra airspace and reduce heat loss through the wall. Those walls are difficult to insulate due to the narrow space, and it’s probably better to leave them alone unless you do major remodeling or re-siding. Homes that were built prior to 1960 may have minimal insulation; some have insulation that is sandwiched between layers of paper. It is possible to add cellulose insulation to walls with those thin insulation layers, but only with a fill tube. If the wall has thicker batts, it will probably be almost impossible to get the fill tube into the wall cavity without bunching the insulation; in that case, it won’t be worth trying to add more.\r\n<h1>Insulating Walls</h1>\r\nIf you have little or no insulation in your walls, you will definitely benefit from installing some. Conductive heat loss through uninsulated walls represents a significant heating and cooling load, and it’s usually cost-effective to add insulation. Exterior walls are fairly difficult to insulate, unless you are remodeling, installing new drywall, or re-siding the house. Retrofitting insulation almost always means blowing in insulation; the process is very much like that for sloped ceiling dense-pack outlined above. The type of siding has a big impact on how easy it is to get into the wall, and it may help you decide whether to tackle the job yourself or hire an insulation contractor.\r\n\r\nWhat’s in there now?\r\n\r\nHow do you know what’s in the walls already? If you have done any remodeling on the house, you may already know. If not, there are a several ways to find out. It’s important to know what is in there, because that will have a big impact on how easy—or useful—it will be to insulate the walls. Remember that there may be different types of insulation (or none at all) in different parts of the house. If some rooms have been remodeled, or built at a different time, they will likely be insulated differently. Sometimes people start to insulate a house and don’t finish, so look in several places to be fairly certain of what is there. If the insulation is spotty or inconsistent, an infrared camera can identify all the areas that are uninsulated.\r\n<h1>Insulating Floors</h1>\r\nSome floors need insulation, and some do not. A basement with a furnace or boiler is typically warm enough that insulating the floor won’t save you much, if anything. Seal and insulate foundation walls to help keep that heat in the house. Most people want their basements to be at least moderately warm, at least to reduce the risk of pipes freezing and dry things out a bit. If you don’t mind having a very cold basement, you can combine floor insulation with insulating and sealing the ducts (or insulating heating pipes) to help keep the heat in the upper floors. Some floors that should be insulated are cantilevers; floors over garages, on stilts, or on piers; and slab-on-grade floors in cold climates. The open side of a conditioned walkout basement is also a slab-on-grade floor.\r\n\r\nInsulating an enclosed-cavity floor with cellulose\r\n\r\nAny floor that is exposed to outdoor conditions or unconditioned space and has solid sheathing on the underside can be insulated with blown-in cellulose. Examples include garage ceilings, exposed heated porches, cantilevered overhangs, and sheathed floors built on piers. The process is the same as that for filling cavities in cathedral ceilings or walls. You must drill holes in each bay, and then patch the holes when you are done.\r\nIn termite-prone areas, exterior rigid foam is not recommended, because insects can hide behind the insulation on their way into the house. Some manufacturers make insect-resistant polystyrene-foam products. Typically, those products do not have insect-repelling qualities that will protect your home; they only prevent critters from nesting in the material. Check your local building code to see whether those products are acceptable for such applications in your area.\r\n\r\nInsulating a slab floor\r\n\r\nAn uninsulated slab floor can lose a lot of heat if the edges are close to or above grade level. It can be cold and uncomfortable in the winter, and cool and damp in the summer. If the floor is unfinished, or you are planning to remodel anyway, a layer of extruded polyethylene, with 1×3 furring as a nail base, makes a good foundation for a plywood subfloor.\r\nSlab floors that are more than a few feet below grade don’t cause much heat loss, but they stay cool in the summer due to ground contact. These surfaces become magnets for condensation in humid weather. For this reason alone, a slab floor may well be worth insulating.\r\n<h1>Insulating Foundation Walls</h1>\r\nIf you have a basement or a crawlspace, chances are pretty good that the walls are not insulated. If you have heating equipment in the space, it is probably not very cold in the winter, either—the thermal boundary is ambiguous. If you use it for anything besides storage, or if you are planning to finish all or part of the basement later, insulating the foundation walls rather than the floor above. I also recommend insulating the crawlspace walls instead of the floor joists. Remember that if you do insulate overhead, you will also need to insulate the furnace ducts or the heating pipes in the basement Most of the heat loss in a foundation wall occurs near the top of the wall, where it’s exposed to outdoor temperatures, but I recommend insulating the entire wall. The cost to insulate the entire wall is not much more than doing just the upper half. Also, if you insulate and finish the entire wall, you will have a much nicer finished space in the basement.\r\n<h4>Energy New England</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li>100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 Foxborough, MA 02035</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-1200</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-0222</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">\r\nsolutions@ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ene.org/\">\r\nwww.ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>Website</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\"> Home\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\"> Energy Assessment\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\"> Recommendations\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\"> Town We Serve\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\"> Home Advisor\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"#\"> Shop\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\"> Contact\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>social media</h4>\r\n<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\r\nLinkedin\r\n</a>','Insulation','','inherit','closed','closed','','46-revision-v1','','','2018-07-24 15:22:39','2018-07-24 15:22:39','',46,'http://ee.ene.org/46-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2102,4,'2018-07-25 17:48:47','2018-07-25 17:48:47','','Air_Cond_Pic1','','inherit','open','closed','','air_cond_pic1','','','2018-07-25 17:48:47','2018-07-25 17:48:47','',48,'/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_Cond_Pic1.png',0,'attachment','image/png',0),(2103,4,'2018-07-25 17:48:59','2018-07-25 17:48:59','','Air_conditioning_Pic2','','inherit','open','closed','','air_conditioning_pic2','','','2018-07-25 17:48:59','2018-07-25 17:48:59','',48,'/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_conditioning_Pic2.png',0,'attachment','image/png',0),(2104,4,'2018-07-25 17:49:07','2018-07-25 17:49:07','','Air_Conditioning_Pic3','','inherit','open','closed','','air_conditioning_pic3','','','2018-07-25 17:49:07','2018-07-25 17:49:07','',48,'/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_Conditioning_Pic3.png',0,'attachment','image/png',0),(2105,4,'2018-07-25 17:49:14','2018-07-25 17:49:14','','air_Conditioning_Pic4','','inherit','open','closed','','air_conditioning_pic4','','','2018-07-25 17:49:14','2018-07-25 17:49:14','',48,'/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/air_Conditioning_Pic4.png',0,'attachment','image/png',0),(2106,4,'2018-07-25 17:49:20','2018-07-25 17:49:20','','Air_Conditioning_Pic5','','inherit','open','closed','','air_conditioning_pic5','','','2018-07-25 17:49:20','2018-07-25 17:49:20','',48,'/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_Conditioning_Pic5.png',0,'attachment','image/png',0),(2107,4,'2018-07-25 17:50:27','2018-07-25 17:50:27','<h2><p>Air-Conditioning</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Cooling Basics</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Reducing Loads</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Maintenance And Upgrades</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">New Air-Conditioning Systems</a></p>\n			<h1>Cooling Basics</h1>		\n		Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads—and bills—benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.		\n			<p>Where does the heat come from?</p>		\n		In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it’s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it’s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\n			<p>How air conditioners work</p>		\n		Virtually all residential air-conditioning systems use a compressor-driven refrigerant vapor cycle to cool house air. The compressor cycle controls refrigerant temperatures in the condenser and evaporator coils, which absorb heat from indoor air at a low temperature, then reject it outdoors at a higher temperature. Air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators all use the refrigerant vapor cycle to essentially push heat uphill, from a cooler place to a warmer place. An air conditioner pushes heat from the cool indoors to the hot outdoors, cooling the interior. In addition to sending indoor heat outdoors, an air conditioner must also reject the heat generated by the compressor and fan motors.\nAnother aspect of air conditioners is their ability to dehumidify, as well as cool, indoor air. This happens when water condenses on the cold fins of the evaporator coil as humid air passes across them. Dehumidification is an important component in maintaining healthy indoor air quality and comfort. Water that is evaporated in air contains quite a bit of heat energy, which must be accounted for in the system’s design. The energy required to remove excess humidity is called latent load, and it comes from moisture sources within the home and, in humid climates, outdoor air leaking indoors.\n			<h1>Reducing Loads</h1>		\n		With cooling, just as with heating, as the loads are reduced you spend less to stay comfortable. Think of the air conditioner as removing heat that builds up, rather than “cooling down” the house. The better you are at preventing heat from building up, the less heat your air conditioner must remove and the less time it will have to run—saving you money. There are two approaches to reducing cooling loads: reducing\nyour need for cooling and reducing heat gains in your house.\n			<p>Reduce the need for cooling</p>		\n		One surefire way to cut cooling costs is to use your air conditioner less. A house with more insulation, better windows, and less air leakage is comfortable with no air-conditioning for more of the summer. Setting the thermostat higher, particularly when the house is empty, reduces the system’s run time and saves energy. \nFans can also help raise the temperature at which you feel comfortable. By installing an efficient ceiling fan and keeping the air moving in occupied rooms, most people can comfort- ably increase the temperature setting of their thermostat by 4°F to 6°F, saving 20 percent to 35 percent on their cooling bills. Fan flow\nshould point downward to maximize the feeling of air movement in the room. Oscillating and box fans can also provide portable comfort. When using any type of indoor fan, remember that it will keep people cool only while they are in the room. Turn off fans when you are not using them, because they generate heat.\nCeiling-mounted whole-house fans that exhaust into the attic are another popular method to reduce the need for cooling, but they must be used properly to be effective. Air leaks between the attic and house must be sealed, and the attic must be well vented to the exterior, to ensure that the fan exhaust goes outdoors rather than back into the house.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_Cond_Pic1.png\" title=\"Air_Cond_Pic1\" alt=\"Air_Cond_Pic1\" />											<figcaption>When you buy a ceiling fan, always choose an Energy Star model. Hundreds are available, with or without built-in efficient lights, for $75 to $225 each.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Duct insulation and sealing</p>		\n		Air-conditioning ducts have the same leakage and insulation issues as those of heating ducts. In fact, leaks and missing insulation in attic ductwork hurt air-conditioning systems more than heating systems, because during peak cooling times attics are usually much hotter than outdoor ambient temperatures. All air conditioning ducts in attics, crawlspaces, and garages should be thoroughly sealed and insulated		\n			<h1>Maintenance and Upgrades</h1>		\n		Like most other equipment, air conditioners need regular maintenance and service. Some things you can probably do yourself, whereas others require a professional technician.		\n			<p>Airflow</p>		\n		Like heat pumps and furnaces, air-conditioning systems depend on adequate airflow to remove heat efficiently from your house. Whether you have a central air conditioner or individual room units, check the filters regularly and clean or replace them when they are dirty— once or twice a season should be adequate. Because airflow is important, do not shut off any of the supply registers in the system—\nespecially if the ducts are located in an attic, garage, or crawlspace.\n			<p>Cleaning air coils</p>		\n		When filters don’t work properly or air gets around them, the evaporator coil can become clogged with dirt and dust. Depending on the system, you may need a service technician to access the coil. If you can reach it yourself, lift the dirt from behind with a stiff brush. Be careful not to drive dirt further in or bend the fins. The outdoor condenser coil should also be kept clean and free of dirt and debris. Don’t spray water directly at the coil, which may drive dirt deeper into the space between the fins. Instead, using a long-bristle brush with flexible bristles, carefully insert the bristles between the fins, and lift the dirt from behind. 		\n			<p>Regular service</p>		\n		Regular service calls—typically every two to three years—should include testing the controls, checking and cleaning the blower, condenser, and evaporator coils as needed, checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines, and checking the condensate drain. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing any airflow problems, and then carefully measuring and correcting the refrigerant charge. Like a heat pump, once that has been done, service technicians should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless there is evidence that something is wrong. Like a heat pump, an over- or undercharged air conditioner is less efficient (particularly older models), and systems are often improperly charged. Airflow must be in the recommended range of 400 CFM to 425 CFM per ton before the refrigerant charge can be measured. \n			<h1>New Air-Conditioning Systems</h1>		\n		If you live in a hot climate and have central air conditioning that is 20 years old or more, replacing your system with a new, energy-efficient model should pay for itself in a reasonable time. High-efficiency systems on the market today are more than twice as efficient as systems from the 1980s. But before running out and replacing your system, you will first need to do two other things: Finish any upgrades on the building enclosure, and become familiar with air conditioning products and installation criteria. Of course, if you have a fairly new system (less than 10 years old), it is probably more cost effective to maintain it and keep it running as efficiently as possible until it wears out. As always, energy-efficient upgrades always cost the least when you are fixing or replacing something anyway. If your old air conditioner is on its last legs or not operating, replace it with the most efficient unit you can find.\n			<p>High-efficiency air-conditioning</p>		\n		New central air conditioners are rated for energy performance with a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER). SEER ratings are measurements under standardized test conditions of Btu per hour of cooling output, divided by input watts. The higher the SEER, the more efficient the system. New central air conditioners are required to have a SEER rating of at least 13; the most efficient units have SEER ratings from 16 to 23. Some of the best high efficiency systems have two-speed compressors; the lower speed provides better, more efficient cooling and dehumidification under mild, part load conditions. When you are replacing a central air conditioning unit with a more efficient one, it’s very important to match the new outdoor unit and the indoor evaporator coil. You may be able to save some money on the installation by keeping your old coil but be careful: you’re unlikely to get the full efficiency ratings of the new unit. If you get a proposal to replace only the outdoor unit, the contractor should be able to demonstrate that the existing indoor coil is listed for use with the new outdoor unit; don’t accept “don’t worry, it’s fine the way it is” as an answer.\n			<p>Sizing a system</p>		\n		Proper sizing has been emphasized as a key efficiency issue for years in the energy-efficiency world, but there’s little evidence that it affects operating costs very much. Duct leakage and insulation in unconditioned spaces are far more important, especially with modern, high efficiency equipment. \nOversized air conditioners do cost more to buy and maintain and require more airflow and larger ductwork. Dehumidification, which depends on air flowing through the evaporator coil for enough time to extract condensed moisture, is one important reason to carefully size an air conditioning system in humid climates. When an oversized system runs for only a few minutes, the moisture may just start to collect on the coils before the thermostat is satisfied. Once the unit shuts down, the moisture re-evaporates into the house. An air conditioner that is too large by 50 percent to 100 percent will be unable to control humidity effectively, so people may tend to set the thermostat lower to compensate. Many new, efficient air conditioners have multiple speeds or special dehumidification modes that can effectively compensate for oversizing; if you are in a humid climate, consider one of these features, or get a stand-alone dehumidifier.\nCorrect load calculations are based on your home’s window size, the glass type, and the size and R-values of the walls and roof. The proper size also varies with the direction the home faces: Sometimes a 90-degree rotation can cut the cooling load in half. If a contractor gives you a price for an air conditioner on the phone, or simply offers to replace the existing unit with a new one of the same size, get a bid from someone else, especially if you have already made energy improvements in your house. The money\nyou save by buying a smaller unit may pay for an efficiency upgrade.\nWhen installing a new air conditioner, shop for value, not just for price. Other things to look for when assessing bids on new air-conditioning equipment include the warranties (from both the manufacturer and the installer), service contracts, longevity of the business, customer references, and technician knowledge. Try to find a contractor who is an Energy Star partner and/or NATE certified, or regularly attends manufacturer’s trainings.\n		Ductless mini-split air conditioners are a great alternative to window units. They are more efficient and quieter, and they don’t use up a window (or allow air leakage). The most efficient units on the market are\nalso heat pumps that can save money on your heating bills, too. A mini-split costs about 10 times as much as a decent window unit, but may cost a third to a half as much as retrofitting central air into an existing home.\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Air Conditioning','','inherit','closed','closed','','48-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 17:50:27','2018-07-25 17:50:27','',48,'http://ee.ene.org/48-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2108,4,'2018-07-25 17:54:23','2018-07-25 17:54:23','<h2><p>Air-Conditioning</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Cooling Basics</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Reducing Loads</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Maintenance And Upgrades</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">New Air-Conditioning Systems</a></p>\n			<h1>Cooling Basics</h1>		\n		Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads—and bills—benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.		\n			<p>Where does the heat come from?</p>		\n		In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it’s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it’s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\n			<p>How air conditioners work</p>		\n		Virtually all residential air-conditioning systems use a compressor-driven refrigerant vapor cycle to cool house air. The compressor cycle controls refrigerant temperatures in the condenser and evaporator coils, which absorb heat from indoor air at a low temperature, then reject it outdoors at a higher temperature. Air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators all use the refrigerant vapor cycle to essentially push heat uphill, from a cooler place to a warmer place. An air conditioner pushes heat from the cool indoors to the hot outdoors, cooling the interior. In addition to sending indoor heat outdoors, an air conditioner must also reject the heat generated by the compressor and fan motors.\nAnother aspect of air conditioners is their ability to dehumidify, as well as cool, indoor air. This happens when water condenses on the cold fins of the evaporator coil as humid air passes across them. Dehumidification is an important component in maintaining healthy indoor air quality and comfort. Water that is evaporated in air contains quite a bit of heat energy, which must be accounted for in the system’s design. The energy required to remove excess humidity is called latent load, and it comes from moisture sources within the home and, in humid climates, outdoor air leaking indoors.\n			<h1>Reducing Loads</h1>		\n		With cooling, just as with heating, as the loads are reduced you spend less to stay comfortable. Think of the air conditioner as removing heat that builds up, rather than “cooling down” the house. The better you are at preventing heat from building up, the less heat your air conditioner must remove and the less time it will have to run—saving you money. There are two approaches to reducing cooling loads: reducing\nyour need for cooling and reducing heat gains in your house.\n			<p>Reduce the need for cooling</p>		\n		One surefire way to cut cooling costs is to use your air conditioner less. A house with more insulation, better windows, and less air leakage is comfortable with no air-conditioning for more of the summer. Setting the thermostat higher, particularly when the house is empty, reduces the system’s run time and saves energy. \nFans can also help raise the temperature at which you feel comfortable. By installing an efficient ceiling fan and keeping the air moving in occupied rooms, most people can comfort- ably increase the temperature setting of their thermostat by 4°F to 6°F, saving 20 percent to 35 percent on their cooling bills. Fan flow\nshould point downward to maximize the feeling of air movement in the room. Oscillating and box fans can also provide portable comfort. When using any type of indoor fan, remember that it will keep people cool only while they are in the room. Turn off fans when you are not using them, because they generate heat.\nCeiling-mounted whole-house fans that exhaust into the attic are another popular method to reduce the need for cooling, but they must be used properly to be effective. Air leaks between the attic and house must be sealed, and the attic must be well vented to the exterior, to ensure that the fan exhaust goes outdoors rather than back into the house.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_Cond_Pic1.png\" title=\"Air_Cond_Pic1\" alt=\"Air_Cond_Pic1\" />											<figcaption>When you buy a ceiling fan, always choose an Energy Star model. Hundreds are available, with or without built-in efficient lights, for $75 to $225 each.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Duct insulation and sealing</p>		\n		Air-conditioning ducts have the same leakage and insulation issues as those of heating ducts. In fact, leaks and missing insulation in attic ductwork hurt air-conditioning systems more than heating systems, because during peak cooling times attics are usually much hotter than outdoor ambient temperatures. All air conditioning ducts in attics, crawlspaces, and garages should be thoroughly sealed and insulated		\n			<h1>Maintenance and Upgrades</h1>		\n		Like most other equipment, air conditioners need regular maintenance and service. Some things you can probably do yourself, whereas others require a professional technician.		\n			<p>Airflow</p>		\n		Like heat pumps and furnaces, air-conditioning systems depend on adequate airflow to remove heat efficiently from your house. Whether you have a central air conditioner or individual room units, check the filters regularly and clean or replace them when they are dirty— once or twice a season should be adequate. Because airflow is important, do not shut off any of the supply registers in the system—\nespecially if the ducts are located in an attic, garage, or crawlspace.\n			<p>Cleaning air coils</p>		\n		When filters don’t work properly or air gets around them, the evaporator coil can become clogged with dirt and dust. Depending on the system, you may need a service technician to access the coil. If you can reach it yourself, lift the dirt from behind with a stiff brush. Be careful not to drive dirt further in or bend the fins. The outdoor condenser coil should also be kept clean and free of dirt and debris. Don’t spray water directly at the coil, which may drive dirt deeper into the space between the fins. Instead, using a long-bristle brush with flexible bristles, carefully insert the bristles between the fins, and lift the dirt from behind. 		\n			<p>Regular service</p>		\n		Regular service calls—typically every two to three years—should include testing the controls, checking and cleaning the blower, condenser, and evaporator coils as needed, checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines, and checking the condensate drain. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing any airflow problems, and then carefully measuring and correcting the refrigerant charge. Like a heat pump, once that has been done, service technicians should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless there is evidence that something is wrong. Like a heat pump, an over- or undercharged air conditioner is less efficient (particularly older models), and systems are often improperly charged. Airflow must be in the recommended range of 400 CFM to 425 CFM per ton before the refrigerant charge can be measured. \n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"236\" height=\"181\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_conditioning_Pic2.png\" alt=\"\" />											<figcaption>Window- or wall-mounted air conditioners have lower efficiency ratings than central systems, but there are no ducts to waste the cold air. And cooling only one or two rooms can use much less energy than cooling an entire house.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<h1>New Air-Conditioning Systems</h1>		\n		If you live in a hot climate and have central air conditioning that is 20 years old or more, replacing your system with a new, energy-efficient model should pay for itself in a reasonable time. High-efficiency systems on the market today are more than twice as efficient as systems from the 1980s. But before running out and replacing your system, you will first need to do two other things: Finish any upgrades on the building enclosure, and become familiar with air conditioning products and installation criteria. Of course, if you have a fairly new system (less than 10 years old), it is probably more cost effective to maintain it and keep it running as efficiently as possible until it wears out. As always, energy-efficient upgrades always cost the least when you are fixing or replacing something anyway. If your old air conditioner is on its last legs or not operating, replace it with the most efficient unit you can find.\n			<p>High-efficiency air-conditioning</p>		\n		New central air conditioners are rated for energy performance with a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER). SEER ratings are measurements under standardized test conditions of Btu per hour of cooling output, divided by input watts. The higher the SEER, the more efficient the system. New central air conditioners are required to have a SEER rating of at least 13; the most efficient units have SEER ratings from 16 to 23. Some of the best high efficiency systems have two-speed compressors; the lower speed provides better, more efficient cooling and dehumidification under mild, part load conditions. When you are replacing a central air conditioning unit with a more efficient one, it’s very important to match the new outdoor unit and the indoor evaporator coil. You may be able to save some money on the installation by keeping your old coil but be careful: you’re unlikely to get the full efficiency ratings of the new unit. If you get a proposal to replace only the outdoor unit, the contractor should be able to demonstrate that the existing indoor coil is listed for use with the new outdoor unit; don’t accept “don’t worry, it’s fine the way it is” as an answer.\n			<p>Sizing a system</p>		\n		Proper sizing has been emphasized as a key efficiency issue for years in the energy-efficiency world, but there’s little evidence that it affects operating costs very much. Duct leakage and insulation in unconditioned spaces are far more important, especially with modern, high efficiency equipment. \nOversized air conditioners do cost more to buy and maintain and require more airflow and larger ductwork. Dehumidification, which depends on air flowing through the evaporator coil for enough time to extract condensed moisture, is one important reason to carefully size an air conditioning system in humid climates. When an oversized system runs for only a few minutes, the moisture may just start to collect on the coils before the thermostat is satisfied. Once the unit shuts down, the moisture re-evaporates into the house. An air conditioner that is too large by 50 percent to 100 percent will be unable to control humidity effectively, so people may tend to set the thermostat lower to compensate. Many new, efficient air conditioners have multiple speeds or special dehumidification modes that can effectively compensate for oversizing; if you are in a humid climate, consider one of these features, or get a stand-alone dehumidifier.\nCorrect load calculations are based on your home’s window size, the glass type, and the size and R-values of the walls and roof. The proper size also varies with the direction the home faces: Sometimes a 90-degree rotation can cut the cooling load in half. If a contractor gives you a price for an air conditioner on the phone, or simply offers to replace the existing unit with a new one of the same size, get a bid from someone else, especially if you have already made energy improvements in your house. The money\nyou save by buying a smaller unit may pay for an efficiency upgrade.\nWhen installing a new air conditioner, shop for value, not just for price. Other things to look for when assessing bids on new air-conditioning equipment include the warranties (from both the manufacturer and the installer), service contracts, longevity of the business, customer references, and technician knowledge. Try to find a contractor who is an Energy Star partner and/or NATE certified, or regularly attends manufacturer’s trainings.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_Conditioning_Pic3.png\" title=\"Air_Conditioning_Pic3\" alt=\"Air_Conditioning_Pic3\" />											<figcaption>All new air conditioners have an Energy Guide label that shows its efficiency rating, as well as a comparison with the ratings of other units of the same type. Room units have an EER, while central systems have a SEER.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n		Ductless mini-split air conditioners are a great alternative to window units. They are more efficient and quieter, and they don’t use up a window (or allow air leakage). The most efficient units on the market are\nalso heat pumps that can save money on your heating bills, too. A mini-split costs about 10 times as much as a decent window unit, but may cost a third to a half as much as retrofitting central air into an existing home.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/air_Conditioning_Pic4.png\" title=\"air_Conditioning_Pic4\" alt=\"air_Conditioning_Pic4\" />											<figcaption>All new air conditioners have an Energy Guide label that shows its efficiency rating, as well as a comparison with the ratings of other units of the same type. Room units have an EER, while central systems have a SEER.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Air Conditioning','','inherit','closed','closed','','48-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 17:54:23','2018-07-25 17:54:23','',48,'http://ee.ene.org/48-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2109,4,'2018-07-25 17:55:09','2018-07-25 17:55:09','<h2><p>Air-Conditioning</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Cooling Basics</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Reducing Loads</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Maintenance And Upgrades</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">New Air-Conditioning Systems</a></p>\n			<h1>Cooling Basics</h1>		\n		Heat flows from a higher temperature to a lower one. In winter, houses lose heat; in summer, they gain it. Just as heating bills benefit by reductions in heat loss, cooling loads—and bills—benefit by reductions in heat gain. Most summer heat gain comes from three places: solar radiation, internal gains, and air leakage in the building and ducts.		\n			<p>Where does the heat come from?</p>		\n		In the winter, the largest energy loads in most homes come from conductive heat loss through walls, ceilings, and windows. Air leakage in the building enclosure and ducts are a close second. Radiation effects are minimal. In hot weather the tables are turned. Conduction plays a minor role; the source of most air-conditioning loads is solar radiation through windows and uninsulated roofs. The same solarheat gain that provides free heat in winter is a major driver of air-conditioning in summer. And it’s not just south-facing windows; in fact, east and west-facing glass contribute more to air conditioning per square foot than south-facing glass. Even conductive heat gains through a poorly insulated attic are largely driven by radiation, when the sun shining on the roof superheats the attic far above outdoor temperatures. \nInternal gain is the name for heat that is generated inside a building by lights, appliances, and people. It is significant and can exceed all other sources besides windows. Some things that we do indoors, such as cooking, dishwashing, showering, and bathing, are obvious sources of heat. Anything that uses electricity gives off heat: refrigerators, lighting, televisions, computer equipment, and their accessories. There are less-obvious sources too, such as standby loss from water heaters. In addition to solar and internal heat gains, duct leakage in a central air-conditioning system is also a large contributor to cooling energy use. Building-shell leakage is a smaller driver in hot climates, but it’s still important to seal leaks in humid climates to reduce the risk of hidden condensation in wall or floor cavities.\n			<p>How air conditioners work</p>		\n		Virtually all residential air-conditioning systems use a compressor-driven refrigerant vapor cycle to cool house air. The compressor cycle controls refrigerant temperatures in the condenser and evaporator coils, which absorb heat from indoor air at a low temperature, then reject it outdoors at a higher temperature. Air conditioners, heat pumps, and refrigerators all use the refrigerant vapor cycle to essentially push heat uphill, from a cooler place to a warmer place. An air conditioner pushes heat from the cool indoors to the hot outdoors, cooling the interior. In addition to sending indoor heat outdoors, an air conditioner must also reject the heat generated by the compressor and fan motors.\nAnother aspect of air conditioners is their ability to dehumidify, as well as cool, indoor air. This happens when water condenses on the cold fins of the evaporator coil as humid air passes across them. Dehumidification is an important component in maintaining healthy indoor air quality and comfort. Water that is evaporated in air contains quite a bit of heat energy, which must be accounted for in the system’s design. The energy required to remove excess humidity is called latent load, and it comes from moisture sources within the home and, in humid climates, outdoor air leaking indoors.\n			<h1>Reducing Loads</h1>		\n		With cooling, just as with heating, as the loads are reduced you spend less to stay comfortable. Think of the air conditioner as removing heat that builds up, rather than “cooling down” the house. The better you are at preventing heat from building up, the less heat your air conditioner must remove and the less time it will have to run—saving you money. There are two approaches to reducing cooling loads: reducing\nyour need for cooling and reducing heat gains in your house.\n			<p>Reduce the need for cooling</p>		\n		One surefire way to cut cooling costs is to use your air conditioner less. A house with more insulation, better windows, and less air leakage is comfortable with no air-conditioning for more of the summer. Setting the thermostat higher, particularly when the house is empty, reduces the system’s run time and saves energy. \nFans can also help raise the temperature at which you feel comfortable. By installing an efficient ceiling fan and keeping the air moving in occupied rooms, most people can comfort- ably increase the temperature setting of their thermostat by 4°F to 6°F, saving 20 percent to 35 percent on their cooling bills. Fan flow\nshould point downward to maximize the feeling of air movement in the room. Oscillating and box fans can also provide portable comfort. When using any type of indoor fan, remember that it will keep people cool only while they are in the room. Turn off fans when you are not using them, because they generate heat.\nCeiling-mounted whole-house fans that exhaust into the attic are another popular method to reduce the need for cooling, but they must be used properly to be effective. Air leaks between the attic and house must be sealed, and the attic must be well vented to the exterior, to ensure that the fan exhaust goes outdoors rather than back into the house.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_Cond_Pic1.png\" title=\"Air_Cond_Pic1\" alt=\"Air_Cond_Pic1\" />											<figcaption>When you buy a ceiling fan, always choose an Energy Star model. Hundreds are available, with or without built-in efficient lights, for $75 to $225 each.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Duct insulation and sealing</p>		\n		Air-conditioning ducts have the same leakage and insulation issues as those of heating ducts. In fact, leaks and missing insulation in attic ductwork hurt air-conditioning systems more than heating systems, because during peak cooling times attics are usually much hotter than outdoor ambient temperatures. All air conditioning ducts in attics, crawlspaces, and garages should be thoroughly sealed and insulated		\n			<h1>Maintenance and Upgrades</h1>		\n		Like most other equipment, air conditioners need regular maintenance and service. Some things you can probably do yourself, whereas others require a professional technician.		\n			<p>Airflow</p>		\n		Like heat pumps and furnaces, air-conditioning systems depend on adequate airflow to remove heat efficiently from your house. Whether you have a central air conditioner or individual room units, check the filters regularly and clean or replace them when they are dirty— once or twice a season should be adequate. Because airflow is important, do not shut off any of the supply registers in the system—\nespecially if the ducts are located in an attic, garage, or crawlspace.\n			<p>Cleaning air coils</p>		\n		When filters don’t work properly or air gets around them, the evaporator coil can become clogged with dirt and dust. Depending on the system, you may need a service technician to access the coil. If you can reach it yourself, lift the dirt from behind with a stiff brush. Be careful not to drive dirt further in or bend the fins. The outdoor condenser coil should also be kept clean and free of dirt and debris. Don’t spray water directly at the coil, which may drive dirt deeper into the space between the fins. Instead, using a long-bristle brush with flexible bristles, carefully insert the bristles between the fins, and lift the dirt from behind. 		\n			<p>Regular service</p>		\n		Regular service calls—typically every two to three years—should include testing the controls, checking and cleaning the blower, condenser, and evaporator coils as needed, checking the insulation on the refrigerant lines, and checking the condensate drain. An initial service appointment should include testing and fixing any airflow problems, and then carefully measuring and correcting the refrigerant charge. Like a heat pump, once that has been done, service technicians should not attach refrigerant gauges to the system unless there is evidence that something is wrong. Like a heat pump, an over- or undercharged air conditioner is less efficient (particularly older models), and systems are often improperly charged. Airflow must be in the recommended range of 400 CFM to 425 CFM per ton before the refrigerant charge can be measured. \n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"236\" height=\"181\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_conditioning_Pic2.png\" alt=\"\" />											<figcaption>Window- or wall-mounted air conditioners have lower efficiency ratings than central systems, but there are no ducts to waste the cold air. And cooling only one or two rooms can use much less energy than cooling an entire house.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<h1>New Air-Conditioning Systems</h1>		\n		If you live in a hot climate and have central air conditioning that is 20 years old or more, replacing your system with a new, energy-efficient model should pay for itself in a reasonable time. High-efficiency systems on the market today are more than twice as efficient as systems from the 1980s. But before running out and replacing your system, you will first need to do two other things: Finish any upgrades on the building enclosure, and become familiar with air conditioning products and installation criteria. Of course, if you have a fairly new system (less than 10 years old), it is probably more cost effective to maintain it and keep it running as efficiently as possible until it wears out. As always, energy-efficient upgrades always cost the least when you are fixing or replacing something anyway. If your old air conditioner is on its last legs or not operating, replace it with the most efficient unit you can find.\n			<p>High-efficiency air-conditioning</p>		\n		New central air conditioners are rated for energy performance with a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating (SEER). SEER ratings are measurements under standardized test conditions of Btu per hour of cooling output, divided by input watts. The higher the SEER, the more efficient the system. New central air conditioners are required to have a SEER rating of at least 13; the most efficient units have SEER ratings from 16 to 23. Some of the best high efficiency systems have two-speed compressors; the lower speed provides better, more efficient cooling and dehumidification under mild, part load conditions. When you are replacing a central air conditioning unit with a more efficient one, it’s very important to match the new outdoor unit and the indoor evaporator coil. You may be able to save some money on the installation by keeping your old coil but be careful: you’re unlikely to get the full efficiency ratings of the new unit. If you get a proposal to replace only the outdoor unit, the contractor should be able to demonstrate that the existing indoor coil is listed for use with the new outdoor unit; don’t accept “don’t worry, it’s fine the way it is” as an answer.\n			<p>Sizing a system</p>		\n		Proper sizing has been emphasized as a key efficiency issue for years in the energy-efficiency world, but there’s little evidence that it affects operating costs very much. Duct leakage and insulation in unconditioned spaces are far more important, especially with modern, high efficiency equipment. \nOversized air conditioners do cost more to buy and maintain and require more airflow and larger ductwork. Dehumidification, which depends on air flowing through the evaporator coil for enough time to extract condensed moisture, is one important reason to carefully size an air conditioning system in humid climates. When an oversized system runs for only a few minutes, the moisture may just start to collect on the coils before the thermostat is satisfied. Once the unit shuts down, the moisture re-evaporates into the house. An air conditioner that is too large by 50 percent to 100 percent will be unable to control humidity effectively, so people may tend to set the thermostat lower to compensate. Many new, efficient air conditioners have multiple speeds or special dehumidification modes that can effectively compensate for oversizing; if you are in a humid climate, consider one of these features, or get a stand-alone dehumidifier.\nCorrect load calculations are based on your home’s window size, the glass type, and the size and R-values of the walls and roof. The proper size also varies with the direction the home faces: Sometimes a 90-degree rotation can cut the cooling load in half. If a contractor gives you a price for an air conditioner on the phone, or simply offers to replace the existing unit with a new one of the same size, get a bid from someone else, especially if you have already made energy improvements in your house. The money\nyou save by buying a smaller unit may pay for an efficiency upgrade.\nWhen installing a new air conditioner, shop for value, not just for price. Other things to look for when assessing bids on new air-conditioning equipment include the warranties (from both the manufacturer and the installer), service contracts, longevity of the business, customer references, and technician knowledge. Try to find a contractor who is an Energy Star partner and/or NATE certified, or regularly attends manufacturer’s trainings.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_Conditioning_Pic3.png\" title=\"Air_Conditioning_Pic3\" alt=\"Air_Conditioning_Pic3\" />											<figcaption>All new air conditioners have an Energy Guide label that shows its efficiency rating, as well as a comparison with the ratings of other units of the same type. Room units have an EER, while central systems have a SEER.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n		Ductless mini-split air conditioners are a great alternative to window units. They are more efficient and quieter, and they don’t use up a window (or allow air leakage). The most efficient units on the market are\nalso heat pumps that can save money on your heating bills, too. A mini-split costs about 10 times as much as a decent window unit, but may cost a third to a half as much as retrofitting central air into an existing home.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/air_Conditioning_Pic4.png\" title=\"air_Conditioning_Pic4\" alt=\"air_Conditioning_Pic4\" />											<figcaption>All new air conditioners have an Energy Guide label that shows its efficiency rating, as well as a comparison with the ratings of other units of the same type. Room units have an EER, while central systems have a SEER.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Air_Conditioning_Pic5.png\" title=\"Air_Conditioning_Pic5\" alt=\"Air_Conditioning_Pic5\" />											<figcaption>New air-conditioning systems are more than twice as efficient as the minimum standards of 20 years ago—the best ones have almost triple the efficiency.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Air Conditioning','','inherit','closed','closed','','48-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 17:55:09','2018-07-25 17:55:09','',48,'http://ee.ene.org/48-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2111,4,'2018-07-25 18:03:03','2018-07-25 18:03:03','<h2><p>Appliances & Lighting</p></h2>		\n		<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances’ energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.</p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Reducing Run Time</a>\n<a href=\"#anchor02\">Improving Efficiency</a>\n<a href=\"#anchor03\">Buying New Appliances</a>\n<a href=\"#anchor04\">Smart Shopping for New Appliances</a>\n<a href=\"#anchor05\">Lighting</a>		\n			<h1>Reducing Run Time</h1>		\n		Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don’t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It’s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back\nwhen temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more—provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don’t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative\nhumidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\n			<h1>Improving Efficiency</h1>		\n		It’s also possible to improve the efficiency of some appliances. Efficiency can often be increased by simple maintenance or by choosing the proper settings when using appliances.\nRefrigeration The refrigerator is typically the biggest electricity user in the kitchen and is often the largest in the house. If your refrigerator is getting old, it’s probably worth replacing it with a new Energy Star model. New, efficient refrigerators use less than half the energy of standard models before 1993. If you are lucky enough to have a refrigerator that dates back to the 1970s or early 1980s and it still runs, take it\nto the recycle center. Even if it’s the spare in the basement or garage, the energy savings will pay\nfor a brand-new unit in just a few years. And buy the smallest, simplest fridge that will meet your\nneeds; large Energy Star models use more electricity than smaller ones; through-door ice and\nwater also use energy.\n To keep any refrigerator running right, ensure adequate air circulation around the unit. Keep it a few inches away from the wall, and don’t box it in with cabinets. It’s a good idea to vacuum the grill periodically, but there is no evidence that vacuuming dust off the coils inside actually saves electricity. Make sure the door seals are tight, keep the unit away from heat sources (don’t put it next\nto the stove or dishwasher) and check the temperature setting. The refrigerator compartments\nshould stay between 38°F and 42°F, and the freezer between 0°F and 5°F. If you have a power-saving switch, use it. Typically, the switch disables internal heaters that fight condensation; turn it off only if condensation occurs. Finally, keep refrigerators and freezers reasonably full; they are less efficient when they are nearly empty. Even more important, avoid the temptation to keep the old fridge in the garage\nor basement for overflow (or the odd six-pack). Buying a new, highly efficient refrigerator won’t save any energy if you keep the old one running!\nIt’s a common mistake to assume that if the fridge is only keeping a few items cold it’s not working very hard. A refrigerator uses most of its energy keeping the inside of the box cold—even if it’s completely empty. If you can’t do without it, unplug the spare until you need it to stock up for that holiday gathering. One more buying tip: A manual-defrost chest freezer uses far less energy than an upright, auto-defrost\nunit. Modern, airtight chest freezers rarely need defrosting, and are less likely to damage food\nwith freezer burn.\n			<h1>Buying Appliances</h1>		\n			<p>Laundry</p>		\n		Washing clothes uses energy in three ways: Washers and dryers have motors that move clothes and water; washers use hot water, which is heated with gas or electricity; and dryers heat clothes to dry them out. When you do a load of laundry, pay attention to the washer settings. Always use a cold-water rinse, and use a warm or cold wash for loads when you can. A warm/ cold cycle uses about half as much total energy as a hot/cold cycle. Also, pay attention to the size of the load; fill, but don’t overload, the machine for best efficiency. If you do run a smaller load, set the wash level appropriately. The settings on your washer also affect drying time. Use the fastest spin setting whenever you can, to remove the most water.\n For dryer efficiency, keep the lint filter clean, and check the outlet periodically for lint that may be clogging the vent. If your dryer hose is kinked, twisted, or too long, replace it with as short and direct a run as possible, preferably with a straight sheet-metal duct instead of a flexible vinyl or aluminum duct. Try to run several loads in succession to take advantage of retained heat, and fill, but don’t overload, the machine. Of course, if the weather’s good, you can also dry clothes outside on a line. \n			<p>Dishwasher</p>		\n		You can minimize dishwasher energy by paying attention to the settings. Don’t use the “Heavy” or “Pots and Pans” cycle unless you really need to. A fast scraping or rinsing of dishes (especially starchy stuff) does help the dishwasher do a better job, so you can use the “Light” setting. But always use cold water for pre-rinsing. Use a premium dishwasher detergent, and let the dishwasher do the job it’s designed for: cutting grease. Wait until the machine is full before using it: It uses the same amount of energy whether you wash one dish or thirty. Many new dishwashers have sensors that stop the machine as particulates in the water clear (indicating that the dishes are clean). If you don’t have to take the dishes out right away, you can run the machine with the “Air-Dry” setting (sometimes called “Energy Saver”).\nIt’s okay to use the dishwasher: In fact, research shows that even careful hand washing uses more hot water and soap than a modern dishwasher. And today’s very efficient dishwashers are reasonably priced—there are Energy Star–rated dishwashers at every point in the price spectrum.\nsize of the load; fill, but don’t overload, the machine for best efficiency. If you do run a smaller load, set the wash level appropriately. The settings on your washer also affect drying time. Use the fastest spin setting whenever you can, to remove the most water.\nFor dryer efficiency, keep the lint filter clean, and check the outlet periodically for lint that may be clogging the vent. If your dryer hose is kinked, twisted, or too long, replace it with as short and direct a run as possible, preferably with a straight sheet-metal duct instead of a flexible vinyl or aluminum duct. Try to run several loads in succession to take advantage of retained heat, and fill, but don’t overload, the machine. Of course, if the weather’s good, you can also dry clothes outside on a line.		\n			<h1>Smart Shopping for New Appliances</h1>		\n		<p>Minimum efficiency regulations for new appliances have increased over the years, so even the least-efficient new models typically use much less energy than appliances that are 10 or more years old.<br />In most cases, it’s not cost-effective to go out and buy new, energy-efficient products just to save energy. Two exceptions to this rule are older refrigerators and dehumidifiers. For other appliances, look for the most efficient products available when you do go shopping—and always choose an Energy Star–labeled appliance at a minimum. It’s worth some research in advance; even within the Energy Star labeling program, there can be a wide range of efficiency. For example, to get an Energy Star label, refrigerators<br />must save at least 20 percent over federal standards, but some models save over 50 percent. Also, minimum requirements vary with features: A side-by-side model with through-door ice can use almost 50 percent more than a top-freezer model without ice—even though both are Energy Star rated. Listings of efficiency levels by model number for most Energy Star products are available at www.energystar.gov/products.</p>		\n			<h1>Lighting</h1>		\n		There are two basic approaches to making the lights in your home more efficient: eliminate unnecessary usage and use the most efficient products available. Many of us heard the message “turn off lights when you’re not using them” while we were growing up. Of course, how much light you need is a matter of eyesight and personal taste. Turning off a light isn’t always a practical solution, except when you leave the\nroom—then there’s no excuse. One of the best ways to eliminate unnecessary light usage is with controls. Regularly used indoor lights can be put on timers or occupancy sensors so they aren’t left on for hours when no one is using them. Exterior walkway and security lighting can be put on a combination of\ntimers, motion sensors, or photocell controls to minimize their use while ensuring that they are\non whenever needed.\n			<p>LED Lighting</p>		\n		<p>LED lighting technology is developing rapidly. In just a few years, a number of good-quality LEDs have become available (though they are still expensive). The products will keep getting better, and prices will continue to drop, over the next few years at least. LEDs are fundamentally different than other light sources. An LED is a semiconductor—basically, a tiny computer chip—that generates light. LEDs have been around for decades in electronic equipment displays and status lights, but by nature a single LED generates a focused point-source of light in a single, saturated color such as red, yellow, or blue. Getting an LED to look like an incandescent bulb is a challenge; most manufacturers combine many LEDs of different colors to approximate warm, yellow-white light and to disperse the light in a useful pattern.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Appliances','','inherit','closed','closed','','2013-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 18:03:03','2018-07-25 18:03:03','',2013,'http://ee.ene.org/2013-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2113,4,'2018-07-25 18:49:12','2018-07-25 18:49:12','','Appliances_Pic1','','inherit','open','closed','','appliances_pic1','','','2018-07-25 18:49:12','2018-07-25 18:49:12','',2013,'/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Appliances_Pic1.png',0,'attachment','image/png',0),(2114,4,'2018-07-25 18:50:10','2018-07-25 18:50:10','<h2><p>Appliances & Lighting</p></h2>		\n		<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances’ energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.</p><p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Reducing Run Time</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Improving Efficiency</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Smart Shopping for New Appliances</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Lighting</a></p>		\n			<h1>Reducing Run Time</h1>		\n		Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don’t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It’s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back when temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more—provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don’t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative humidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\n			<h1>Improving efficiency</h1>		\n			<p>Refrigeration </p>		\n		The refrigerator is typically the biggest electricity user in the kitchen and is often the largest in the house. If your refrigerator is getting old, it’s probably worth replacing it with a new Energy Star model. New, efficient refrigerators use less than half the energy of standard models before 1993. If you are lucky enough to have a refrigerator that dates back to the 1970s or early 1980s and it still runs, take it to the recycle center. Even if it’s the spare in the basement or garage, the energy savings will pay for a brand-new unit in just a few years. And buy the smallest, simplest fridge that will meet your needs; large Energy Star models use more electricity than smaller ones; through-door ice and water also use energy.\nTo keep any refrigerator running right, ensure adequate air circulation around the unit. Keep it a few inches away from the wall, and don’t box it in with cabinets. It’s a good idea to vacuum the grill periodically, but there is no evidence that vacuuming dust off the coils inside actually saves electricity. Make sure the door seals are tight, keep the unit away from heat sources (don’t put it next to the stove or dishwasher) and check the temperature setting. The refrigerator compartments should stay between 38°F and 42°F, and the freezer between 0°F and 5°F. If you have a power-saving switch, use it. Typically, the switch disables internal heaters that fight condensation; turn it off only if condensation occurs. Finally, keep refrigerators and freezers reasonably full; they are less efficient when they are nearly empty. Even more important, avoid the temptation to keep the old fridge in the garage or basement for overflow (or the odd six-pack). Buying a new, highly efficient refrigerator won’t save any energy if you keep the old one running!\nIt’s a common mistake to assume that if the fridge is only keeping a few items cold it’s not working very hard. A refrigerator uses most of its energy keeping the inside of the box cold—even if it’s completely empty. If you can’t do without it, unplug the spare until you need it to stock up for that holiday gathering. One more buying tip: A manual-defrost chest freezer uses far less energy than an upright, auto-defrost unit. Modern, airtight chest freezers rarely need defrosting, and are less likely to damage food with freezer burn.\n			<p>Laundry</p>		\n		Washing clothes uses energy in three ways: Washers and dryers have motors that move clothes and water; washers use hot water, which is heated with gas or electricity; and dryers heat clothes to dry them out. When you do a load of laundry, pay attention to the washer settings. Always use a cold-water rinse, and use a warm or cold wash for loads when you can. A warm/ cold cycle uses about half as much total energy as a hot/cold cycle. Also, pay attention to the size of the load; fill, but don’t overload, the machine for best efficiency. If you do run a smaller load, set the wash level appropriately. The settings on your washer also affect drying time. Use the fastest spin setting whenever you can, to remove the most water.\nFor dryer efficiency, keep the lint filter clean, and check the outlet periodically for lint that may be clogging the vent. If your dryer hose is kinked, twisted, or too long, replace it with as short and direct a run as possible, preferably with a straight sheet-metal duct instead of a flexible vinyl or aluminum duct. Try to run several loads in succession to take advantage of retained heat, and fill, but don’t overload, the machine. Of course, if the weather’s good, you can also dry clothes outside on a line. \n			<p>Dishwasher</p>		\n		You can minimize dishwasher energy by paying attention to the settings. Don’t use the “Heavy” or “Pots and Pans” cycle unless you really need to. A fast scraping or rinsing of dishes (especially starchy stuff) does help the dishwasher do a better job, so you can use the “Light” setting. But always use cold water for pre-rinsing. Use a premium dishwasher detergent, and let the dishwasher do the job it’s designed for: cutting grease. Wait until the machine is full before using it: It uses the same amount of energy whether you wash one dish or thirty. Many new dishwashers have sensors that stop the machine as particulates in the water clear (indicating that the dishes are clean). If you don’t have to take the dishes out right away, you can run the machine with the “Air-Dry” setting (sometimes called “Energy Saver”).\nIt’s okay to use the dishwasher: In fact, research shows that even careful hand washing uses more hot water and soap than a modern dishwasher. And today’s very efficient dishwashers are reasonably priced—there are Energy Star–rated dishwashers at every point in the price spectrum.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Appliances_Pic1.png\" title=\"Appliances_Pic1\" alt=\"Appliances_Pic1\" />											<figcaption>Front-loading clothes washers use less water and less energy and are easier on your clothes.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<h1>Smart shopping for new appliances</h1>		\n		Minimum efficiency regulations for new appliances have increased over the years, so even the least-efficient new models typically use much less energy than appliances that are 10 or more years old. In most cases, it’s not cost-effective to go out and buy new, energy-efficient products just to save energy. Two exceptions to this rule are older refrigerators and dehumidifiers. For other appliances, look for the most efficient products available when you do go shopping—and always choose an Energy Star–labeled appliance at a minimum. It’s worth some research in advance; even within the Energy Star labeling program, there can be a wide range of efficiency. For example, to get an Energy Star label, refrigerators must save at least 20 percent over federal standards, but some models save over 50 percent. Also, minimum requirements vary with features: A side-by-side model with through-door ice can use almost 50 percent more than a top-freezer model without ice—even though both are Energy Star rated. Listings of efficiency levels by model number for most Energy Star products are available at www.energystar.gov/products.		\n			<h1>Lighting</h1>		\n		There are two basic approaches to making the lights in your home more efficient: eliminate unnecessary usage and use the most efficient products available. Many of us heard the message “turn off lights when you’re not using them” while we were growing up. Of course, how much light you need is a matter of eyesight and personal taste. Turning off a light isn’t always a practical solution, except when you leave the room—then there’s no excuse. One of the best ways to eliminate unnecessary light usage is with controls. Regularly used indoor lights can be put on timers or occupancy sensors so they aren’t left on for hours when no one is using them. Exterior walkway and security lighting can be put on a combination of timers, motion sensors, or photocell controls to minimize their use while ensuring that they are on whenever needed.		\n			<p>LED Lighting</p>		\n		<p>LED lighting technology is developing rapidly. In just a few years, a number of good-quality LEDs have become available (though they are still expensive). The products will keep getting better, and prices will continue to drop, over the next few years at least. LEDs are fundamentally different than other light sources. An LED is a semiconductor—basically, a tiny computer chip—that generates light. LEDs have been around for decades in electronic equipment displays and status lights, but by nature a single LED generates a focused point-source of light in a single, saturated color such as red, yellow, or blue. Getting an LED to look like an incandescent bulb is a challenge; most manufacturers combine many LEDs of different colors to approximate warm, yellow-white light and to disperse the light in a useful pattern.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Appliances','','inherit','closed','closed','','2013-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 18:50:10','2018-07-25 18:50:10','',2013,'http://ee.ene.org/2013-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2115,4,'2018-07-25 18:52:19','2018-07-25 18:52:19','<h2><p>Appliances & Lighting</p></h2>		\n		<p>You can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances’ energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.</p><p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Reducing Run Time</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Improving Efficiency</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Smart Shopping for New Appliances</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Lighting</a></p>		\n			<h1>Reducing Run Time</h1>		\n		Reducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don’t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It’s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back when temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more—provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don’t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative humidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\n			<h1>Improving efficiency</h1>		\n		<p>It’s also possible to improve the efficiency of some appliances. Efficiency can often be increased by simple maintenance or by choosing the proper settings when using appliances.</p>		\n			<p>Refrigeration </p>		\n		The refrigerator is typically the biggest electricity user in the kitchen and is often the largest in the house. If your refrigerator is getting old, it’s probably worth replacing it with a new Energy Star model. New, efficient refrigerators use less than half the energy of standard models before 1993. If you are lucky enough to have a refrigerator that dates back to the 1970s or early 1980s and it still runs, take it to the recycle center. Even if it’s the spare in the basement or garage, the energy savings will pay for a brand-new unit in just a few years. And buy the smallest, simplest fridge that will meet your needs; large Energy Star models use more electricity than smaller ones; through-door ice and water also use energy.\nTo keep any refrigerator running right, ensure adequate air circulation around the unit. Keep it a few inches away from the wall, and don’t box it in with cabinets. It’s a good idea to vacuum the grill periodically, but there is no evidence that vacuuming dust off the coils inside actually saves electricity. Make sure the door seals are tight, keep the unit away from heat sources (don’t put it next to the stove or dishwasher) and check the temperature setting. The refrigerator compartments should stay between 38°F and 42°F, and the freezer between 0°F and 5°F. If you have a power-saving switch, use it. Typically, the switch disables internal heaters that fight condensation; turn it off only if condensation occurs. Finally, keep refrigerators and freezers reasonably full; they are less efficient when they are nearly empty. Even more important, avoid the temptation to keep the old fridge in the garage or basement for overflow (or the odd six-pack). Buying a new, highly efficient refrigerator won’t save any energy if you keep the old one running!\nIt’s a common mistake to assume that if the fridge is only keeping a few items cold it’s not working very hard. A refrigerator uses most of its energy keeping the inside of the box cold—even if it’s completely empty. If you can’t do without it, unplug the spare until you need it to stock up for that holiday gathering. One more buying tip: A manual-defrost chest freezer uses far less energy than an upright, auto-defrost unit. Modern, airtight chest freezers rarely need defrosting, and are less likely to damage food with freezer burn.\n			<p>Laundry</p>		\n		Washing clothes uses energy in three ways: Washers and dryers have motors that move clothes and water; washers use hot water, which is heated with gas or electricity; and dryers heat clothes to dry them out. When you do a load of laundry, pay attention to the washer settings. Always use a cold-water rinse, and use a warm or cold wash for loads when you can. A warm/ cold cycle uses about half as much total energy as a hot/cold cycle. Also, pay attention to the size of the load; fill, but don’t overload, the machine for best efficiency. If you do run a smaller load, set the wash level appropriately. The settings on your washer also affect drying time. Use the fastest spin setting whenever you can, to remove the most water.\nFor dryer efficiency, keep the lint filter clean, and check the outlet periodically for lint that may be clogging the vent. If your dryer hose is kinked, twisted, or too long, replace it with as short and direct a run as possible, preferably with a straight sheet-metal duct instead of a flexible vinyl or aluminum duct. Try to run several loads in succession to take advantage of retained heat, and fill, but don’t overload, the machine. Of course, if the weather’s good, you can also dry clothes outside on a line. \n			<p>Dishwasher</p>		\n		You can minimize dishwasher energy by paying attention to the settings. Don’t use the “Heavy” or “Pots and Pans” cycle unless you really need to. A fast scraping or rinsing of dishes (especially starchy stuff) does help the dishwasher do a better job, so you can use the “Light” setting. But always use cold water for pre-rinsing. Use a premium dishwasher detergent, and let the dishwasher do the job it’s designed for: cutting grease. Wait until the machine is full before using it: It uses the same amount of energy whether you wash one dish or thirty. Many new dishwashers have sensors that stop the machine as particulates in the water clear (indicating that the dishes are clean). If you don’t have to take the dishes out right away, you can run the machine with the “Air-Dry” setting (sometimes called “Energy Saver”).\nIt’s okay to use the dishwasher: In fact, research shows that even careful hand washing uses more hot water and soap than a modern dishwasher. And today’s very efficient dishwashers are reasonably priced—there are Energy Star–rated dishwashers at every point in the price spectrum.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Appliances_Pic1.png\" title=\"Appliances_Pic1\" alt=\"Appliances_Pic1\" />											<figcaption>Front-loading clothes washers use less water and less energy and are easier on your clothes.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<h1>Smart shopping for new appliances</h1>		\n		Minimum efficiency regulations for new appliances have increased over the years, so even the least-efficient new models typically use much less energy than appliances that are 10 or more years old. In most cases, it’s not cost-effective to go out and buy new, energy-efficient products just to save energy. Two exceptions to this rule are older refrigerators and dehumidifiers. For other appliances, look for the most efficient products available when you do go shopping—and always choose an Energy Star–labeled appliance at a minimum. It’s worth some research in advance; even within the Energy Star labeling program, there can be a wide range of efficiency. For example, to get an Energy Star label, refrigerators must save at least 20 percent over federal standards, but some models save over 50 percent. Also, minimum requirements vary with features: A side-by-side model with through-door ice can use almost 50 percent more than a top-freezer model without ice—even though both are Energy Star rated. Listings of efficiency levels by model number for most Energy Star products are available at www.energystar.gov/products.		\n			<h1>Lighting</h1>		\n		There are two basic approaches to making the lights in your home more efficient: eliminate unnecessary usage and use the most efficient products available. Many of us heard the message “turn off lights when you’re not using them” while we were growing up. Of course, how much light you need is a matter of eyesight and personal taste. Turning off a light isn’t always a practical solution, except when you leave the room—then there’s no excuse. One of the best ways to eliminate unnecessary light usage is with controls. Regularly used indoor lights can be put on timers or occupancy sensors so they aren’t left on for hours when no one is using them. Exterior walkway and security lighting can be put on a combination of timers, motion sensors, or photocell controls to minimize their use while ensuring that they are on whenever needed.		\n			<p>LED Lighting</p>		\n		<p>LED lighting technology is developing rapidly. In just a few years, a number of good-quality LEDs have become available (though they are still expensive). The products will keep getting better, and prices will continue to drop, over the next few years at least. LEDs are fundamentally different than other light sources. An LED is a semiconductor—basically, a tiny computer chip—that generates light. LEDs have been around for decades in electronic equipment displays and status lights, but by nature a single LED generates a focused point-source of light in a single, saturated color such as red, yellow, or blue. Getting an LED to look like an incandescent bulb is a challenge; most manufacturers combine many LEDs of different colors to approximate warm, yellow-white light and to disperse the light in a useful pattern.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Appliances','','inherit','closed','closed','','2013-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 18:52:19','2018-07-25 18:52:19','',2013,'http://ee.ene.org/2013-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2116,4,'2018-07-25 18:55:50','2018-07-25 18:55:50','Appliances &amp; Lighting\r\n\r\nYou can use three basic approaches to reduce your appliances’ energy usage: Reduce the run time of appliances, improve the energy efficiency of your existing appliances, and buy new appliances that are more energy efficient.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor01\">Reducing Run Time</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor02\">Improving Efficiency</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor03\">Smart Shopping for New Appliances</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor04\">Lighting</a>\r\n<h1>Reducing Run Time</h1>\r\nReducing appliance run time may be as simple as turning things off when you don’t need them. Some big users, such as a pool pump or dehumidifier, may run part- or full-time in the background, where you are not aware of them. In some cases, it may be possible to add a simple control to turn the appliance on only when it is needed or adjust an existing control to cut the usage without sacrificing utility. For example, many pool pumps are controlled by a timer to run between 8 and 12 hours per day. But proper filtration and circulation often only takes 4 to 8 hours. It’s easy to cut the daily run time to 4 hours for a week or two. If the water starts to get cloudy, increase the run time a bit until it clears; if not, cut it even further until you find an equilibrium. It may need more run time in hot weather; but make sure to cut back when temperatures are more moderate. If you have a heated pool, an insulated cover can save even more—provided you close it when the pool is unoccupied. To reduce the operating time for a dehumidifier, monitor the humidity level in the air and don’t run it more than necessary. Indoor relative humidity should be kept between 30 percent and 50 percent for optimum health, so get a humidity gauge and adjust the dehumidifier to the upper end of that range.\r\n<h1>Improving efficiency</h1>\r\nIt’s also possible to improve the efficiency of some appliances. Efficiency can often be increased by simple maintenance or by choosing the proper settings when using appliances.\r\n\r\nRefrigeration\r\n\r\nThe refrigerator is typically the biggest electricity user in the kitchen and is often the largest in the house. If your refrigerator is getting old, it’s probably worth replacing it with a new Energy Star model. New, efficient refrigerators use less than half the energy of standard models before 1993. If you are lucky enough to have a refrigerator that dates back to the 1970s or early 1980s and it still runs, take it to the recycle center. Even if it’s the spare in the basement or garage, the energy savings will pay for a brand-new unit in just a few years. And buy the smallest, simplest fridge that will meet your needs; large Energy Star models use more electricity than smaller ones; through-door ice and water also use energy.\r\nTo keep any refrigerator running right, ensure adequate air circulation around the unit. Keep it a few inches away from the wall, and don’t box it in with cabinets. It’s a good idea to vacuum the grill periodically, but there is no evidence that vacuuming dust off the coils inside actually saves electricity. Make sure the door seals are tight, keep the unit away from heat sources (don’t put it next to the stove or dishwasher) and check the temperature setting. The refrigerator compartments should stay between 38°F and 42°F, and the freezer between 0°F and 5°F. If you have a power-saving switch, use it. Typically, the switch disables internal heaters that fight condensation; turn it off only if condensation occurs. Finally, keep refrigerators and freezers reasonably full; they are less efficient when they are nearly empty. Even more important, avoid the temptation to keep the old fridge in the garage or basement for overflow (or the odd six-pack). Buying a new, highly efficient refrigerator won’t save any energy if you keep the old one running!\r\nIt’s a common mistake to assume that if the fridge is only keeping a few items cold it’s not working very hard. A refrigerator uses most of its energy keeping the inside of the box cold—even if it’s completely empty. If you can’t do without it, unplug the spare until you need it to stock up for that holiday gathering. One more buying tip: A manual-defrost chest freezer uses far less energy than an upright, auto-defrost unit. Modern, airtight chest freezers rarely need defrosting, and are less likely to damage food with freezer burn.\r\n\r\nLaundry\r\n\r\nWashing clothes uses energy in three ways: Washers and dryers have motors that move clothes and water; washers use hot water, which is heated with gas or electricity; and dryers heat clothes to dry them out. When you do a load of laundry, pay attention to the washer settings. Always use a cold-water rinse, and use a warm or cold wash for loads when you can. A warm/ cold cycle uses about half as much total energy as a hot/cold cycle. Also, pay attention to the size of the load; fill, but don’t overload, the machine for best efficiency. If you do run a smaller load, set the wash level appropriately. The settings on your washer also affect drying time. Use the fastest spin setting whenever you can, to remove the most water.\r\nFor dryer efficiency, keep the lint filter clean, and check the outlet periodically for lint that may be clogging the vent. If your dryer hose is kinked, twisted, or too long, replace it with as short and direct a run as possible, preferably with a straight sheet-metal duct instead of a flexible vinyl or aluminum duct. Try to run several loads in succession to take advantage of retained heat, and fill, but don’t overload, the machine. Of course, if the weather’s good, you can also dry clothes outside on a line.\r\n\r\nDishwasher\r\n\r\nYou can minimize dishwasher energy by paying attention to the settings. Don’t use the “Heavy” or “Pots and Pans” cycle unless you really need to. A fast scraping or rinsing of dishes (especially starchy stuff) does help the dishwasher do a better job, so you can use the “Light” setting. But always use cold water for pre-rinsing. Use a premium dishwasher detergent, and let the dishwasher do the job it’s designed for: cutting grease. Wait until the machine is full before using it: It uses the same amount of energy whether you wash one dish or thirty. Many new dishwashers have sensors that stop the machine as particulates in the water clear (indicating that the dishes are clean). If you don’t have to take the dishes out right away, you can run the machine with the “Air-Dry” setting (sometimes called “Energy Saver”).\r\nIt’s okay to use the dishwasher: In fact, research shows that even careful hand washing uses more hot water and soap than a modern dishwasher. And today’s very efficient dishwashers are reasonably priced—there are Energy Star–rated dishwashers at every point in the price spectrum.\r\n<figure><img title=\"Appliances_Pic1\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Appliances_Pic1.png\" alt=\"Appliances_Pic1\" /><figcaption>Front-loading clothes washers use less water and less energy and are easier on your clothes.</figcaption></figure>\r\n<h1>Smart shopping for new appliances</h1>\r\nMinimum efficiency regulations for new appliances have increased over the years, so even the least-efficient new models typically use much less energy than appliances that are 10 or more years old. In most cases, it’s not cost-effective to go out and buy new, energy-efficient products just to save energy. Two exceptions to this rule are older refrigerators and dehumidifiers. For other appliances, look for the most efficient products available when you do go shopping—and always choose an Energy Star–labeled appliance at a minimum. It’s worth some research in advance; even within the Energy Star labeling program, there can be a wide range of efficiency. For example, to get an Energy Star label, refrigerators must save at least 20 percent over federal standards, but some models save over 50 percent. Also, minimum requirements vary with features: A side-by-side model with through-door ice can use almost 50 percent more than a top-freezer model without ice—even though both are Energy Star rated. Listings of efficiency levels by model number for most Energy Star products are available at www.energystar.gov/products.\r\n<h1>Lighting</h1>\r\nThere are two basic approaches to making the lights in your home more efficient: eliminate unnecessary usage and use the most efficient products available. Many of us heard the message “turn off lights when you’re not using them” while we were growing up. Of course, how much light you need is a matter of eyesight and personal taste. Turning off a light isn’t always a practical solution, except when you leave the room—then there’s no excuse. One of the best ways to eliminate unnecessary light usage is with controls. Regularly used indoor lights can be put on timers or occupancy sensors so they aren’t left on for hours when no one is using them. Exterior walkway and security lighting can be put on a combination of timers, motion sensors, or photocell controls to minimize their use while ensuring that they are on whenever needed.\r\n\r\nLED Lighting\r\n\r\nLED lighting technology is developing rapidly. In just a few years, a number of good-quality LEDs have become available (though they are still expensive). The products will keep getting better, and prices will continue to drop, over the next few years at least. LEDs are fundamentally different than other light sources. An LED is a semiconductor—basically, a tiny computer chip—that generates light. LEDs have been around for decades in electronic equipment displays and status lights, but by nature a single LED generates a focused point-source of light in a single, saturated color such as red, yellow, or blue. Getting an LED to look like an incandescent bulb is a challenge; most manufacturers combine many LEDs of different colors to approximate warm, yellow-white light and to disperse the light in a useful pattern.\r\n<h4>Energy New England</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li>100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 Foxborough, MA 02035</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-1200</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-0222</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">\r\nsolutions@ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ene.org/\">\r\nwww.ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>Website</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\"> Home\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\"> Energy Assessment\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\"> Recommendations\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\"> Town We Serve\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\"> Home Advisor\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"#\"> Shop\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\"> Contact\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>social media</h4>\r\n<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\r\nLinkedin\r\n</a>','Appliances & Lighting','','inherit','closed','closed','','2013-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 18:55:50','2018-07-25 18:55:50','',2013,'http://ee.ene.org/2013-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2117,4,'2018-07-25 18:59:59','2018-07-25 18:59:59','<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>','footer - website','','inherit','closed','closed','','1056-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 18:59:59','2018-07-25 18:59:59','',1056,'http://ee.ene.org/1056-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2118,4,'2018-07-25 19:00:00','2018-07-25 19:00:00','<h2>Recommendations</h2>		\n		<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\">Understand common sources of energy waste in your home.</p>		\n		<p>Here in Massachusetts and Rhode Island, the winters are cold and the summers are hot. All homes waste energy, increasing utility bills and reducing comfort. We want to help you make the most of your energy investment in your home. ENE has partnered with energy efficiency expert and author, Bruce Harley, to provide you with advice from his book, <u>Insulate and Weatherize</u>. Learn about the many possible sources of energy loss in your home, how to save on your energy bills, and be more energy efficient. Whether you have had a recent Home Energy Assessment and are reviewing the recommendations from the Snugg Pro™ report, or are planning a home improvement project, this section contains information to help you achieve your energy goals.</p>		\n			<h2>Categories</h2>		\n		<p>Air Leaks</p><p>Attic and knee walls</p><p>Cooling and Heating</p><p>Duct Work</p><p>Thermostats</p><p>Water Heaters</p><p>Insulation</p><p>Doors and Windows</p><p>Appliances</p><p>Pool Pumps</p>		\n		<p><b>About the Author<br /></b>Bruce Harley is an engineer who has been involved in energy efficiency for the 28 years. His field experience includes testing, diagnosis, and remediation of air leakage, duct leakage, airflow, combustion safety, and indoor air quality in residential buildings, as well as efficiency testing and troubleshooting of geothermal heat pumps. He has conducted training in energy-efficient residential construction, building science, mechanical systems, diagnostic techniques, and energy codes for designers, builders, building officials, and tradespeople. He currently lives in Stamford, Vermont, in an energy-efficient solar/electric house, which he designed and built.</p>		\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/07/cutyourenerybills1-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Cut Your Energy Bills</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/cut-your-energy-bills-bruce-harley-071230.html\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<a href=\"https://www.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase at amazon\n					</a>\n											<a href=\"https://smile.amazon.com/Insulate-Weatherize-Energy-Efficiency-Tauntons/dp/1600854680/ref=asap_bc?ie=UTF8\" data-elementor-open-lightbox=\"\">\n							<img width=\"2162\" height=\"2560\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover.jpg 2162w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-253x300.jpg 253w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-768x909.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/book-cover-865x1024.jpg 865w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 2162px) 100vw, 2162px\" />								</a>\n			<h2>Insulate and Weatherize: For Energy Efficiency at Home (Taunton\'s Build Like a Pro)</h2>		\n			<a href=\"https://www.tauntonstore.com/build-like-a-pro-insulate-and-weatherize-bruce-harley-070649.html#collateral-tabs\" role=\"button\">\n						Purchase\n					</a>\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','RECOMMENDATIONS','','inherit','closed','closed','','16-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 19:00:00','2018-07-25 19:00:00','',16,'http://ee.ene.org/16-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2119,4,'2018-07-25 19:55:00','2018-07-25 19:55:00','Other Energy Saving Devices\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor01\">Thermostats</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor02\">Pipe Insulation</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor03\">Hot- Water Conservation</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor04\">Electronics</a>\r\n<h1>Thermostats</h1>\r\nThe thermostat is a control that is common to virtually every heating system. A thermostat senses the room temperature and turns the heat on when the temperature drops below the set point. The simplest thing you can do to save energy is to turn down the thermostat. Depending on the climate, you can save about 10 percent if you keep the house cooler by 3°F to 5°F.\r\nTurning down a thermostat saves energy, but only if you’re consistent. If one person is always turning it down, and another is always turning it back up, the person who turns it up may set the thermostat even higher to compensate for feeling chilly—and use more energy. This “dueling manager” syndrome is particularly wasteful if you have a heat pump. Find the lowest setting that everyone in the family is consistently comfortable with, and then leave it alone (other than for regular setbacks).\r\nAnother way to save energy with your thermostat is by using a regular setback. Turning down the house temperature for 6 to 8 hours while everyone is asleep, or away during the day, can save a lot—about 10 percent for an 8-hour, 10°F setback. Contrary to popular belief, it does not take more energy to bring the house back up to temperature. Remember, the heating system replaces heat that the house loses; if the indoor temperature is lower for a period of time, the house simply loses less heat during that time. But don’t overcompensate by setting the thermostat higher when you return; a setting of 78°F does not warm the house up any faster than a setting of 70°F.\r\nOne problem with turning down the thermostat while you’re away (or asleep) is that the house is cold when you return home (or get up). If you have a fairly regular schedule, an automatic thermostat can help. Set it to turn down the heat when you leave and turn it back up just before you get home; down at bedtime, up before you get up. Once it’s set, you don’t have to do anything. Most automatic thermostats can handle at least two setback periods during the day, and separate programs for weekends or all seven days.\r\nThe Nest Learning Thermostat™ is a new twist on the old thermostat. It learns from your behavior to create automatic setbacks and bring the house back to temperature when you need it. A motion sensor knows if you come home early, and a wireless network interface allows remote control from a computer or smartphone, as well as access to local weather data. Other brands to consider are the Honeywell Lyric™ or the ecobee™.\r\n<h1>Pipe Insulation</h1>\r\nPipe insulation is inexpensive and widely available at hardware stores and home centers. Make sure the material used on heating pipes is rated to at least 180° F, because some types will melt on heating pipes.\r\n\r\nSafety First\r\n\r\nYears ago, materials containing asbestos were commonly used to insulate pipes and ducts. Usually white and fibrous, asbestos is often fragile; if disturbed, it can release dangerous fibers into the air. If your pipes or ducts appear to have asbestos insulation, don’t touch it. Asbestos materials confirmed by a lab test should either be covered or removed. Learn more at www.epa.gov/asbestos.\r\nSome appliances use electricity even when you think they are turned off. Set-top boxes such as DVRs and cable television decoders are a common example: If they’re plugged in, they’re consuming energy whether they’re being used or not. Anything that turns on with a remote control draws energy continuously, staying on to receive the signal from the remote. Many consumer electronics use power whenever they are plugged in. The good news is, new electronic devices are becoming far more energy-efficient in idle or “standby” modes. The bad news is that most American families add electronic devices over time, offsetting efficiency gains.\r\n<figure><img title=\"Misc_Topics_Pic1\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Misc_Topics_Pic1.png\" alt=\"Misc_Topics_Pic1\" /><figcaption>This wall cube draws power even when nothing is plugged into it.</figcaption></figure>\r\n<h1>Hot-Water Conservation</h1>\r\nThere are a number of ways you can reduce hot-water usage and consumption.\r\n\r\nLow-flow showerheads\r\n\r\nBecause most Americans shower every day, reducing a showerhead’s flow can save a lot of water and money. Depending on the flow rate at which you start—in gallons per minute—and the number of people in the household, your yearly savings can be substantial. These numbers assume a water-heater recovery efficiency of 77 percent, daily 5-minute showers for each person in the house, and a natural gas price of $1.20/therm. If you heat your water with electricity, the savings will be about double. Remember that you won’t just be saving fuel costs: For every $10 in water-heating savings, you will also save about 2,000 gallons of water per year.\r\nIf the flow rate of a shower is more than 3 GPM, it is well worth replacing it with a new low-flow 1.5-GPM showerhead. Even if you already have a 2.5 GPM showerhead, consider upgrading to even lower flow along with a better shower. Shop around; if your existing showerhead dates before 1993, almost any new one that you install will save hot water—and not at the expense of a good shower.\r\n\r\nFaucet aerators\r\n\r\nLike showerheads, new kitchen and lavatory faucets have had maximum-flow ratings of 2.2 GPM and 1.5 GPM (respectively) since the mid-1990s. Some vintage fixtures don’t have standard screw-in aerators and cannot be retro- fitted easily, but in most cases a new aerator in an existing faucet can further reduce hot water usage. Besides the basic aerator shown below left, some units give you more control over water flow. If you are planning to replace a kitchen faucet, an integrated faucet/retractable sprayer unit can provide flexible spray patterns and low water flow in one attractive package.\r\n\r\nOther appliances\r\n\r\nThere are two other home appliances that use a lot of hot water: clothes washers and dishwashers. New Energy Star–rated washers save at least 37 percent of the hot water and electricity used by conventional washing machines. Regardless of your washing machine type, you can easily save hot water by being conscious of your usage. Use warm wash/cold rinse or cold cycles when hot is unnecessary and set the fill level appropriately to the size of load. Dishwashers are a little more complicated. Older units generally depend on an incoming hot-water temperature of 130°F or higher to work properly. Most new models have built-in booster heaters, which heat the wash water to at least 140°F right in the dishwasher. Not only do they use less hot water, but they also allow you to reduce the temperature setting on your water heater. Most important, remember that modern dishwashers use less hot water, energy, and water than even very careful hand dishwashing. So load up and use the dishwasher for everything that’s dishwasher safe.\r\n<img title=\"Misc_Topics_Pic2\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Misc_Topics_Pic2.png\" alt=\"Misc_Topics_Pic2\" />\r\n\r\nWater Sense\r\n\r\nSince 2006, WaterSense® has labeled toilets, faucets, showerheads, and weather-based irrigation controllers to demonstrate that they meet water-efficiency criteria that exceed national standards and perform well. WaterSense also labels certification programs for landscape-irrigation professionals who demonstrate proficiency in water-efficient irrigation systems. Efficient toilets and landscape irrigation won’t save hot water, but they can save a lot on your water bill, and ultimately save some energy too. See www.epa.gov/WaterSense.\r\n<h1>Electronics</h1>\r\nYou may think that when you turn something off at the switch that it is off. But many consumer electronics, computer equipment, and some appliances don’t really turn off. They go into a standby mode, waiting for you to turn the switch back on or to click a remote. The energy used during standby is sometimes called a phantom or vampire load, creating a slow and steady drain on your electric meter. A standby mode can provide real utility (such as the clock on the coffeemaker that shows you the time and can make your coffee just before you wake up). But they can also be a waste, or in between: A settop box or DVR needs to be on to record your favorite shows, even if you’re not there.\r\n\r\nStandby loads\r\n\r\nStandby loads for consumer electronics have been dropping rapidly due to voluntary standards like Energy Star in combination with advances in technology. But consumers are buying more and more electronics every year, so the sheer number of devices tends to offset efficiency improvements. Fortunately, there are many control devices available to help you plug up these energy leaks (see the sidebar above). If you are thoughtful about how you apply these controls, you can save energy, and in some cases even enhance convenience.\r\nAnother area of phantom energy use that you can easily control is your computer. In addition to putting peripherals and monitors on a control, you should also avoid screen savers, some of which actually increase energy use. And don’t leave the computer on unless it’s actually doing something. There’s a lingering myth that leaving a computer running reduces wear and tear, but that advice harkens back to a time when hardware and operating systems were unreliable. All modern operating systems include standby or hibernation modes that recover quickly, and actually save wear and tear, while saving electricity. Look for settings such as Power Options or Energy Saver. Note that some standby modes require a small amount of energy, so be sure that your desktop computer is plugged into an always-on outlet so your session is preserved when everything else shuts down.\r\n\r\nSmart Strips\r\n\r\nMany gadgets are available to help manage phantom loads. They all promise to pay for themselves in a year or two, but their impact depends entirely on what’s plugged in and how it’s used. Any control will save the most when it shuts off larger plug loads; the best opportunities are usually found in groups of devices, like entertainment centers or home offices.\r\n\r\nThe Smart Strip® is one of several brands that sense when a “primary” load (such as a computer or TV) is running. When you switch off that primary device, most of the other outlets in the strip automatically shut off power to peripherals such as monitor, printer, DVD player, or game console. Look for a load-sensing device that you can adjust to properly sense the standby or “off” power level of your primary device.\r\n<h4>Energy New England</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li>100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 Foxborough, MA 02035</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-1200</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-0222</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">\r\nsolutions@ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ene.org/\">\r\nwww.ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>Website</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\"> Home\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\"> Energy Assessment\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\"> Recommendations\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\"> Town We Serve\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\"> Home Advisor\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"#\"> Shop\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\"> Contact\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>social media</h4>\r\n<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\r\nLinkedin\r\n</a>','Other Energy Saving Devices','','publish','closed','closed','','miscellaneous-topics','','','2018-07-30 16:29:51','2018-07-30 16:29:51','',16,'http://ee.ene.org/?page_id=2119',0,'page','',0),(2120,4,'2018-07-25 19:55:00','2018-07-25 19:55:00','','Miscellaneous Topics','','inherit','closed','closed','','2119-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 19:55:00','2018-07-25 19:55:00','',2119,'http://ee.ene.org/2119-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2122,4,'2018-07-25 20:01:21','2018-07-25 20:01:21','<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>','footer - website','','inherit','closed','closed','','1056-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 20:01:21','2018-07-25 20:01:21','',1056,'http://ee.ene.org/1056-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2123,4,'2018-07-25 20:01:21','2018-07-25 20:01:21','<h2><p>Other Energy Saving Devices</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Thermostats</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Pipe Insulation</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Hot- Water Conservation</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Electronics</a></p>\n			<h1>Air-Sealing Priorities</h1>		\n		<p>Identify the most important leaks first; sealing them makes the biggest difference in comfort and energy. The priorities are big leaks, and leaks at higher pressures. Air movement and leakage areas are not always intuitively clear, but remember that air does not move through most solid objects (concrete block and masonry in general are notable exceptions). Air leaks mostly through connections and spaces between building materials.</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities-ns2bd5bbnjqsuflckv6psa9s5ybrx2wiwjvx5h3jpe.png\" title=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" alt=\"air-sealing_Air-Sealing-Priorities\" />											\n			<p>Seal the high and low leaks</p>		\n		<p>The greatest pressure differences are those at the highest and lowest points in your house, and your top priority should always be the attic. Doing a complete job of sealing leaks between the house and the attic will help stop cold winter air from seeping in at the bottom of the house.</p><p>Sealing the attic also helps keep out moisture, reduce ice dams, and prevent hot air from leaking in from the attic or roof in the summer.</p><p>Once you have sealed the attic, the next priority is the basement, crawlspace, or slab—the home’s foundation. Sealing leaks there will help prevent cold air from coming in during the winter and cool air from escaping during the summer. Then you can look for significant leaks in other parts of the house.</p>		\n			<h1>Attic Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>When walking around your house, you’re likely to see only the plaster or drywall. What you don’t see are all the connections where building materials meet (or don’t meet). The biggest leaks are hidden behind the walls, where you can’t see them. The key to air-sealing an attic is to block off the large openings and seal the smaller ones as completely as possible—from one end of the attic to the other. (Note: You might skip the air-sealing if there are lots of complicated leaks as well as leaky ductwork in the attic, or if the attic is a space you plan to convert to finished space in the future. If that’s the case, consider sealing and insulating the roof instead with sprayed urethane foam.)</p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n		<p><b>Attic Bypasses</b></p><p>Although there are many variations, here are some common attic bypass situations:</p><ol><li>Dropped, or soffited, ceilings are common in kitchens above cabinets, in bathrooms over showers or vanities, and sometimes over stairways (see photo B).</li><li>Plumbing chases (see photo B) can be much larger than the pipes that run through them.</li><li>Chimney chases often run all the way to the basement of a house (see photo A).</li><li>Tri-level homes often have open cavities that extend from the lower level into the attic, along the wall between the levels. These stud spaces are bypasses, as are the large openings that may occur near the stairs (see photo C).</li><li>Older homes and rowhouses with brick exteriors may have wood furring strips that extend from the attic to the basement. Walls above pocket doors may also have gaps, which open into the channel in which the door slides.</li></ol>		\n			<p>Through-framing into attics</p>		\n		<p>Now that you are thoroughly familiar with your attic, you should have an idea of where the big holes are located. These holes typically occur wherever framing members, such as wall studs or floor joists, run from the conditioned space to the attic space. These bypasses require a little more thought to seal properly, and they are often the largest and most important leaks. </p>		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/elementor/thumbs/air-sealing_attic-details-ns2biqgsa3e5uzh5ya4vlvifaesbob3307htuotaws.png\" title=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" alt=\"air-sealing_attic-details\" />											\n			<p>Recessed lights</p>		\n		<p>Recessed “can” light fixtures installed in an insulated ceiling are often big air leaks. Most common styles are full of holes to vent the fixture so it doesn’t get too hot. Also, an older unit can’t have insulation above, or within 3 in. of any part of the fixture, so each one represents a big “hole” for both air and heat flow. If you have a lot of them, the result can be an energy disaster. The best approach is to replace them with airtight fixtures that are rated for insulation contact, or “IC.” The IC rating allows insulation to surround and cover the light fixture. Not all IC-rated fixtures are airtight (AT), but building codes in most states require airtight IC fixtures, so they are easy to find.</p>		\n			<p>Other special situations\n</p>		\n		<p>Attic air-sealing is complicated by the fact that there are so many types of houses, but there are some fairly common situations. First, don’t miss hidden attic areas. Sometimes an addition, dormer, or ell may have a separate attic that you can’t see, because the new roof was built right over the first roof.<br>Suspended ceilings can hide tremendous leakage areas, particularly if they have attic spaces above. In older houses, such ceilings are often installed to hide deteriorating plaster. There may be large holes in the ceiling or high on the walls that are hidden by the dropped ceiling.</p><p>Sometimes a suspended ceiling hides open framing that is insulated with only faced fiberglass batts. This is a huge air leak: neither the insulation nor the suspended ceiling is an air barrier. It’s best to remove the suspended ceiling and install new drywall.</p><p>Another potential air-leakage disaster is a wooden tongue-and-groove ceiling. Whether the ceiling is flat or cathedral, if there is no air barrier behind the planks (which is typical), the hundreds of lineal feet of cracks in even a small room can add up to a big leak.</p><p>Occasionally, air leaks occur in places that are virtually impossible to reach. If your house has a lot of cathedral-ceiling areas, you may have many plumbing vents and wiring holes that lead from partition-wall cavities up into the roof. These provide a path for warm humid air to escape in winter and for hot attic air to leak into interior walls in summer. Unless you are planning to re-roof or to gut those partitions in a remodel, your most likely options involve dense-packed cellulose insulation or two-part foam.</p>		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n							<figure>\n										<img width=\"934\" height=\"1120\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test.jpg 934w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-250x300.jpg 250w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-768x921.jpg 768w, /wp-content/uploads/2018/06/blower-door-test-854x1024.jpg 854w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 934px) 100vw, 934px\" />											<figcaption>A blower door is used to measure how airtight a house is. It’s also useful in helping identify where the air leaks are.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>\n<p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/your-local-utility/\">					Your Local Utility\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://www.energyfederation.org/consumer\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Miscellaneous Topics','','inherit','closed','closed','','2119-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 20:01:21','2018-07-25 20:01:21','',2119,'http://ee.ene.org/2119-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2125,4,'2018-07-25 20:10:34','2018-07-25 20:10:34','','Misc_Topics_Pic1','','inherit','open','closed','','misc_topics_pic1','','','2018-07-25 20:10:34','2018-07-25 20:10:34','',2119,'/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Misc_Topics_Pic1.png',0,'attachment','image/png',0),(2126,4,'2018-07-25 20:10:44','2018-07-25 20:10:44','','Misc_Topics_Pic2','','inherit','open','closed','','misc_topics_pic2','','','2018-07-25 20:10:44','2018-07-25 20:10:44','',2119,'/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Misc_Topics_Pic2.png',0,'attachment','image/png',0),(2127,4,'2018-07-25 20:24:31','2018-07-25 20:24:31','<h2><p>Other Energy Saving Devices</p></h2>		\n		<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Thermostats</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">Pipe Insulation</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Hot- Water Conservation</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Electronics</a></p>\n			<h1>Thermostats</h1>		\n		The thermostat is a control that is common to virtually every heating system. A thermostat senses the room temperature and turns the heat on when the temperature drops below the set point. The simplest thing you can do to save energy is to turn down the thermostat. Depending on the climate, you can save about 10 percent if you keep the house cooler by 3°F to 5°F.\nTurning down a thermostat saves energy, but only if you’re consistent. If one person is always turning it down, and another is always turning it back up, the person who turns it up may set the thermostat even higher to compensate for feeling chilly—and use more energy. This “dueling manager” syndrome is particularly wasteful if you have a heat pump. Find the lowest setting that everyone in the family is consistently comfortable with, and then leave it alone (other than for regular setbacks).\nAnother way to save energy with your thermostat is by using a regular setback. Turning down the house temperature for 6 to 8 hours while everyone is asleep, or away during the day, can save a lot—about 10 percent for an 8-hour, 10°F setback. Contrary to popular belief, it does not take more energy to bring the house back up to temperature. Remember, the heating system replaces heat that the house loses; if the indoor temperature is lower for a period of time, the house simply loses less heat during that time. But don’t overcompensate by setting the thermostat higher when you return; a setting of 78°F does not warm the house up any faster than a setting of 70°F.\nOne problem with turning down the thermostat while you’re away (or asleep) is that the house is cold when you return home (or get up). If you have a fairly regular schedule, an automatic thermostat can help. Set it to turn down the heat when you leave and turn it back up just before you get home; down at bedtime, up before you get up. Once it’s set, you don’t have to do anything. Most automatic thermostats can handle at least two setback periods during the day, and separate programs for weekends or all seven days.\nThe Nest Learning Thermostat™ is a new twist on the old thermostat. It learns from your behavior to create automatic setbacks and bring the house back to temperature when you need it. A motion sensor knows if you come home early, and a wireless network interface allows remote control from a computer or smartphone, as well as access to local weather data. Other brands to consider are the Honeywell Lyric™ or the ecobee™. \n			<h1>Pipe Insulation </h1>		\n		Pipe insulation is inexpensive and widely available at hardware stores and home centers. Make sure the material used on heating pipes is rated to at least 180° F, because some types will melt on heating pipes.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		Years ago, materials containing asbestos were commonly used to insulate pipes and ducts. Usually white and fibrous, asbestos is often fragile; if disturbed, it can release dangerous fibers into the air. If your pipes or ducts appear to have asbestos insulation, don’t touch it. Asbestos materials confirmed by a lab test should either be covered or removed. Learn more at www.epa.gov/asbestos.\nSome appliances use electricity even when you think they are turned off. Set-top boxes such as DVRs and cable television decoders are a common example: If they’re plugged in, they’re consuming energy whether they’re being used or not. Anything that turns on with a remote control draws energy continuously, staying on to receive the signal from the remote. Many consumer electronics use power whenever they are plugged in. The good news is, new electronic devices are becoming far more energy-efficient in idle or “standby” modes. The bad news is that most American families add electronic devices over time, offsetting efficiency gains.\n							<figure>\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Misc_Topics_Pic1.png\" title=\"Misc_Topics_Pic1\" alt=\"Misc_Topics_Pic1\" />											<figcaption>This wall cube draws power even when nothing is plugged into it.</figcaption>\n										</figure>\n			<h1>Hot-Water Conservation</h1>		\n		There are a number of ways you can reduce hot-water usage and consumption.		\n			<p>Low-flow showerheads</p>		\n		Because most Americans shower every day, reducing a showerhead’s flow can save a lot of water and money. Depending on the flow rate at which you start—in gallons per minute—and the number of people in the household, your yearly savings can be substantial. These numbers assume a water-heater recovery efficiency of 77 percent, daily 5-minute showers for each person in the house, and a natural gas price of $1.20/therm. If you heat your water with electricity, the savings will be about double. Remember that you won’t just be saving fuel costs: For every $10 in water-heating savings, you will also save about 2,000 gallons of water per year.\nIf the flow rate of a shower is more than 3 GPM, it is well worth replacing it with a new low-flow 1.5-GPM showerhead. Even if you already have a 2.5 GPM showerhead, consider upgrading to even lower flow along with a better shower. Shop around; if your existing showerhead dates before 1993, almost any new one that you install will save hot water—and not at the expense of a good shower.\n			<p>Faucet aerators</p>		\n		Like showerheads, new kitchen and lavatory faucets have had maximum-flow ratings of 2.2 GPM and 1.5 GPM (respectively) since the mid-1990s. Some vintage fixtures don’t have standard screw-in aerators and cannot be retro- fitted easily, but in most cases a new aerator in an existing faucet can further reduce hot water usage. Besides the basic aerator shown below left, some units give you more control over water flow. If you are planning to replace a kitchen faucet, an integrated faucet/retractable sprayer unit can provide flexible spray patterns and low water flow in one attractive package.		\n			<p>Other appliances</p>		\n		There are two other home appliances that use a lot of hot water: clothes washers and dishwashers. New Energy Star–rated washers save at least 37 percent of the hot water and electricity used by conventional washing machines. Regardless of your washing machine type, you can easily save hot water by being conscious of your usage. Use warm wash/cold rinse or cold cycles when hot is unnecessary and set the fill level appropriately to the size of load. Dishwashers are a little more complicated. Older units generally depend on an incoming hot-water temperature of 130°F or higher to work properly. Most new models have built-in booster heaters, which heat the wash water to at least 140°F right in the dishwasher. Not only do they use less hot water, but they also allow you to reduce the temperature setting on your water heater. Most important, remember that modern dishwashers use less hot water, energy, and water than even very careful hand dishwashing. So load up and use the dishwasher for everything that’s dishwasher safe.		\n										<img src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Misc_Topics_Pic2.png\" title=\"Misc_Topics_Pic2\" alt=\"Misc_Topics_Pic2\" />											\n			<p>Water Sense </p>		\n		Since 2006, WaterSense® has labeled toilets, faucets, showerheads, and weather-based irrigation controllers to demonstrate that they meet water-efficiency criteria that exceed national standards and perform well. WaterSense also labels certification programs for landscape-irrigation professionals who demonstrate proficiency in water-efficient irrigation systems. Efficient toilets and landscape irrigation won’t save hot water, but they can save a lot on your water bill, and ultimately save some energy too. See www.epa.gov/WaterSense.		\n			<h1>Electronics</h1>		\n		You may think that when you turn something off at the switch that it is off. But many consumer electronics, computer equipment, and some appliances don’t really turn off. They go into a standby mode, waiting for you to turn the switch back on or to click a remote. The energy used during standby is sometimes called a phantom or vampire load, creating a slow and steady drain on your electric meter. A standby mode can provide real utility (such as the clock on the coffeemaker that shows you the time and can make your coffee just before you wake up). But they can also be a waste, or in between: A settop box or DVR needs to be on to record your favorite shows, even if you’re not there.		\n			<p>Standby loads</p>		\n		Standby loads for consumer electronics have been dropping rapidly due to voluntary standards like Energy Star in combination with advances in technology. But consumers are buying more and more electronics every year, so the sheer number of devices tends to offset efficiency improvements. Fortunately, there are many control devices available to help you plug up these energy leaks (see the sidebar above). If you are thoughtful about how you apply these controls, you can save energy, and in some cases even enhance convenience.\nAnother area of phantom energy use that you can easily control is your computer. In addition to putting peripherals and monitors on a control, you should also avoid screen savers, some of which actually increase energy use. And don’t leave the computer on unless it’s actually doing something. There’s a lingering myth that leaving a computer running reduces wear and tear, but that advice harkens back to a time when hardware and operating systems were unreliable. All modern operating systems include standby or hibernation modes that recover quickly, and actually save wear and tear, while saving electricity. Look for settings such as Power Options or Energy Saver. Note that some standby modes require a small amount of energy, so be sure that your desktop computer is plugged into an always-on outlet so your session is preserved when everything else shuts down.\n			<p>Smart Strips\n</p>		\n		<p>Many gadgets are available to help manage phantom loads. They all promise to pay for themselves in a year or two, but their impact depends entirely on what’s plugged in and how it’s used. Any control will save the most when it shuts off larger plug loads; the best opportunities are usually found in groups of devices, like entertainment centers or home offices.</p><p> </p><p>The Smart Strip® is one of several brands that sense when a “primary” load (such as a computer or TV) is running. When you switch off that primary device, most of the other outlets in the strip automatically shut off power to peripherals such as monitor, printer, DVD player, or game console. Look for a load-sensing device that you can adjust to properly sense the standby or “off” power level of your primary device.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Miscellaneous Topics','','inherit','closed','closed','','2119-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 20:24:31','2018-07-25 20:24:31','',2119,'http://ee.ene.org/2119-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2128,4,'2018-07-25 20:25:55','2018-07-25 20:25:55','Other Energy Saving Devices\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor01\">Thermostats</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor02\">Pipe Insulation</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor03\">Hot- Water Conservation</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor04\">Electronics</a>\r\n<h1>Thermostats</h1>\r\nThe thermostat is a control that is common to virtually every heating system. A thermostat senses the room temperature and turns the heat on when the temperature drops below the set point. The simplest thing you can do to save energy is to turn down the thermostat. Depending on the climate, you can save about 10 percent if you keep the house cooler by 3°F to 5°F.\r\nTurning down a thermostat saves energy, but only if you’re consistent. If one person is always turning it down, and another is always turning it back up, the person who turns it up may set the thermostat even higher to compensate for feeling chilly—and use more energy. This “dueling manager” syndrome is particularly wasteful if you have a heat pump. Find the lowest setting that everyone in the family is consistently comfortable with, and then leave it alone (other than for regular setbacks).\r\nAnother way to save energy with your thermostat is by using a regular setback. Turning down the house temperature for 6 to 8 hours while everyone is asleep, or away during the day, can save a lot—about 10 percent for an 8-hour, 10°F setback. Contrary to popular belief, it does not take more energy to bring the house back up to temperature. Remember, the heating system replaces heat that the house loses; if the indoor temperature is lower for a period of time, the house simply loses less heat during that time. But don’t overcompensate by setting the thermostat higher when you return; a setting of 78°F does not warm the house up any faster than a setting of 70°F.\r\nOne problem with turning down the thermostat while you’re away (or asleep) is that the house is cold when you return home (or get up). If you have a fairly regular schedule, an automatic thermostat can help. Set it to turn down the heat when you leave and turn it back up just before you get home; down at bedtime, up before you get up. Once it’s set, you don’t have to do anything. Most automatic thermostats can handle at least two setback periods during the day, and separate programs for weekends or all seven days.\r\nThe Nest Learning Thermostat™ is a new twist on the old thermostat. It learns from your behavior to create automatic setbacks and bring the house back to temperature when you need it. A motion sensor knows if you come home early, and a wireless network interface allows remote control from a computer or smartphone, as well as access to local weather data. Other brands to consider are the Honeywell Lyric™ or the ecobee™.\r\n<h1>Pipe Insulation</h1>\r\nPipe insulation is inexpensive and widely available at hardware stores and home centers. Make sure the material used on heating pipes is rated to at least 180° F, because some types will melt on heating pipes.\r\n\r\nSafety First\r\n\r\nYears ago, materials containing asbestos were commonly used to insulate pipes and ducts. Usually white and fibrous, asbestos is often fragile; if disturbed, it can release dangerous fibers into the air. If your pipes or ducts appear to have asbestos insulation, don’t touch it. Asbestos materials confirmed by a lab test should either be covered or removed. Learn more at www.epa.gov/asbestos.\r\nSome appliances use electricity even when you think they are turned off. Set-top boxes such as DVRs and cable television decoders are a common example: If they’re plugged in, they’re consuming energy whether they’re being used or not. Anything that turns on with a remote control draws energy continuously, staying on to receive the signal from the remote. Many consumer electronics use power whenever they are plugged in. The good news is, new electronic devices are becoming far more energy-efficient in idle or “standby” modes. The bad news is that most American families add electronic devices over time, offsetting efficiency gains.\r\n<figure><img title=\"Misc_Topics_Pic1\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Misc_Topics_Pic1.png\" alt=\"Misc_Topics_Pic1\" /><figcaption>This wall cube draws power even when nothing is plugged into it.</figcaption></figure>\r\n<h1>Hot-Water Conservation</h1>\r\nThere are a number of ways you can reduce hot-water usage and consumption.\r\n\r\nLow-flow showerheads\r\n\r\nBecause most Americans shower every day, reducing a showerhead’s flow can save a lot of water and money. Depending on the flow rate at which you start—in gallons per minute—and the number of people in the household, your yearly savings can be substantial. These numbers assume a water-heater recovery efficiency of 77 percent, daily 5-minute showers for each person in the house, and a natural gas price of $1.20/therm. If you heat your water with electricity, the savings will be about double. Remember that you won’t just be saving fuel costs: For every $10 in water-heating savings, you will also save about 2,000 gallons of water per year.\r\nIf the flow rate of a shower is more than 3 GPM, it is well worth replacing it with a new low-flow 1.5-GPM showerhead. Even if you already have a 2.5 GPM showerhead, consider upgrading to even lower flow along with a better shower. Shop around; if your existing showerhead dates before 1993, almost any new one that you install will save hot water—and not at the expense of a good shower.\r\n\r\nFaucet aerators\r\n\r\nLike showerheads, new kitchen and lavatory faucets have had maximum-flow ratings of 2.2 GPM and 1.5 GPM (respectively) since the mid-1990s. Some vintage fixtures don’t have standard screw-in aerators and cannot be retro- fitted easily, but in most cases a new aerator in an existing faucet can further reduce hot water usage. Besides the basic aerator shown below left, some units give you more control over water flow. If you are planning to replace a kitchen faucet, an integrated faucet/retractable sprayer unit can provide flexible spray patterns and low water flow in one attractive package.\r\n\r\nOther appliances\r\n\r\nThere are two other home appliances that use a lot of hot water: clothes washers and dishwashers. New Energy Star–rated washers save at least 37 percent of the hot water and electricity used by conventional washing machines. Regardless of your washing machine type, you can easily save hot water by being conscious of your usage. Use warm wash/cold rinse or cold cycles when hot is unnecessary and set the fill level appropriately to the size of load. Dishwashers are a little more complicated. Older units generally depend on an incoming hot-water temperature of 130°F or higher to work properly. Most new models have built-in booster heaters, which heat the wash water to at least 140°F right in the dishwasher. Not only do they use less hot water, but they also allow you to reduce the temperature setting on your water heater. Most important, remember that modern dishwashers use less hot water, energy, and water than even very careful hand dishwashing. So load up and use the dishwasher for everything that’s dishwasher safe.\r\n<img title=\"Misc_Topics_Pic2\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Misc_Topics_Pic2.png\" alt=\"Misc_Topics_Pic2\" />\r\n\r\nWater Sense\r\n\r\nSince 2006, WaterSense® has labeled toilets, faucets, showerheads, and weather-based irrigation controllers to demonstrate that they meet water-efficiency criteria that exceed national standards and perform well. WaterSense also labels certification programs for landscape-irrigation professionals who demonstrate proficiency in water-efficient irrigation systems. Efficient toilets and landscape irrigation won’t save hot water, but they can save a lot on your water bill, and ultimately save some energy too. See www.epa.gov/WaterSense.\r\n<h1>Electronics</h1>\r\nYou may think that when you turn something off at the switch that it is off. But many consumer electronics, computer equipment, and some appliances don’t really turn off. They go into a standby mode, waiting for you to turn the switch back on or to click a remote. The energy used during standby is sometimes called a phantom or vampire load, creating a slow and steady drain on your electric meter. A standby mode can provide real utility (such as the clock on the coffeemaker that shows you the time and can make your coffee just before you wake up). But they can also be a waste, or in between: A settop box or DVR needs to be on to record your favorite shows, even if you’re not there.\r\n\r\nStandby loads\r\n\r\nStandby loads for consumer electronics have been dropping rapidly due to voluntary standards like Energy Star in combination with advances in technology. But consumers are buying more and more electronics every year, so the sheer number of devices tends to offset efficiency improvements. Fortunately, there are many control devices available to help you plug up these energy leaks (see the sidebar above). If you are thoughtful about how you apply these controls, you can save energy, and in some cases even enhance convenience.\r\nAnother area of phantom energy use that you can easily control is your computer. In addition to putting peripherals and monitors on a control, you should also avoid screen savers, some of which actually increase energy use. And don’t leave the computer on unless it’s actually doing something. There’s a lingering myth that leaving a computer running reduces wear and tear, but that advice harkens back to a time when hardware and operating systems were unreliable. All modern operating systems include standby or hibernation modes that recover quickly, and actually save wear and tear, while saving electricity. Look for settings such as Power Options or Energy Saver. Note that some standby modes require a small amount of energy, so be sure that your desktop computer is plugged into an always-on outlet so your session is preserved when everything else shuts down.\r\n\r\nSmart Strips\r\n\r\nMany gadgets are available to help manage phantom loads. They all promise to pay for themselves in a year or two, but their impact depends entirely on what’s plugged in and how it’s used. Any control will save the most when it shuts off larger plug loads; the best opportunities are usually found in groups of devices, like entertainment centers or home offices.\r\n\r\nThe Smart Strip® is one of several brands that sense when a “primary” load (such as a computer or TV) is running. When you switch off that primary device, most of the other outlets in the strip automatically shut off power to peripherals such as monitor, printer, DVD player, or game console. Look for a load-sensing device that you can adjust to properly sense the standby or “off” power level of your primary device.\r\n<h4>Energy New England</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li>100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 Foxborough, MA 02035</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-1200</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-0222</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">\r\nsolutions@ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ene.org/\">\r\nwww.ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>Website</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\"> Home\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\"> Energy Assessment\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\"> Recommendations\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\"> Town We Serve\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\"> Home Advisor\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"#\"> Shop\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\"> Contact\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>social media</h4>\r\n<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\r\nLinkedin\r\n</a>','Miscellaneous Topics','','inherit','closed','closed','','2119-revision-v1','','','2018-07-25 20:25:55','2018-07-25 20:25:55','',2119,'http://ee.ene.org/2119-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2129,4,'2018-07-26 18:28:33','2018-07-26 18:28:33','Resources\r\n\r\nThis section is intended to help you access additional information about energy efficiency ideas, designs, and products.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor01\">Federal Sites</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor02\">State Sites</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor03\">Information/Incentives and Assistance</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor04\">Online Home Energy Assessments</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor05\">Information on Efficient Appliances, Electronics, and Equipment</a>\r\n<h1>Federal Sites</h1>\r\nThe United States Government has set up a number of websites to help energy consumers learn about their energy use and make energy efficient choices. Here are a few:\r\n\r\n<a href=\"https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/energy-saver\">U.S. Department of Energy - Energy Saver</a>\r\nPartnerships for home energy efficiency.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"https://www.energystar.gov/\">U.S Environmental Protection Agency - ENERGY STAR</a>\r\nHelps consumers make purchasing choices that reduce the energy they use.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http://hes.lbl.gov/consumer/\">Home Energy Saver</a>\r\nAn interactive program to help consumers identify the best ways to save energy in their home and find the resources to make savings happen.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"https://www.energy.gov/eere/office-energy-efficiency-renewable-energy\">U.S Department of Energy - Office of Energy Efficiency &amp; Renewable Energy</a>\r\nGovernment resources and data to help consumers research their energy saving options.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"https://www.energy.gov/eere/wipo/weatherization-and-intergovernmental-program-office-projects-map\">U.S Department of Energy - Weatherization and Intergovernmental Programs Office</a>\r\nDirectory of weatherization programs by state.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"https://liheapch.acf.hhs.gov/referral.htm\">National Energy Assistance Referral (NEAR)</a>\r\nNEAR is a free service for persons who want information on where to apply for the Low Income Home Energy Assistance Program (LIHEAP), which may pay a portion of the energy bills of eligible low-income persons.\r\n<h1>State Sites</h1>\r\n<a href=\"https://www.mass.gov/energy-efficiency-for-your-home\">Mass.gov</a>\r\nLearn about energy efficiency programs, incentives, and products that will help you save energy and money in your home.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"https://www.mass.gov/guides/home-mvp\">Home Energy Market Value Performance (Home MVP) Pilot</a>\r\nA guide to the Home Energy Market Value Performance (Home MVP) Pilot that offers incentives to help Massachusetts residents reduce their home energy use, energy bills, and greenhouse gas emissions while improving home comfort and performance.\r\n<h1>Information/Incentives and Assistance</h1>\r\nGreen/Renewable Power and Carbon Offset Information\r\n\r\n<a href=\"https://www.green-e.org/\">Green-e</a>\r\nSearch for renewable energy and carbon offsets by state and type.\r\n\r\nTax Credits and Other Incentives\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http://www.dsireusa.org/\">Database of State Incentives for Renewables &amp; Efficiency (DSIRE) </a>\r\nA comprehensive directory of federal, state, and utility programs categorized by state, including loans, tax incentives, grants, rebates, and technical services.\r\n\r\nWeatherization Assistance: Federal, State, and Utility Assistance for Income-Qualified Customers\r\n\r\nNational Energy Assistance Referral (NEAR)\r\n(866) 674-6327\r\n\r\nU.S Department of Energy - Weatherization and Intergovernmental Programs Office\r\nDirectory of weatherization programs by state.\r\n<h1>Online Home Energy Assessments</h1>\r\n<a href=\"https://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?fuseaction=home_energy_yardstick.showgetstarted\">ENERGY STAR – Home Energy Yardstick</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"https://www.masssave.com/en/saving/energy-assessments/online-home-energy-assessment/\">Mass Save</a>\r\n<h1>Information on Efficient Appliances, Electronics, and Equipment</h1>\r\nManufacturers listed in this section are a representative sample rather than an exhaustive list of all possible resources within each category; a listing here should not be considered an endorsement of products or third-party content.\r\n\r\nComparison Shopping\r\n\r\n<a href=\"https://www.ahridirectory.org/Search/SearchHome?ReturnUrl=%2f\">Air-Conditioning, Heating, &amp; Refrigeration Institute (AHRI)</a>\r\nSearchable database for heating, air-conditioning, and water-heating equipment efficiency ratings.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http://www.cee1.org/content/cee-program-resources\">Consortium for Energy Efficiency (CEE) </a>\r\nCEE lists efficient appliances that generally exceed ENERGY STAR specifications. Click “RESIDENTIAL” for consumer electronics, home appliances, HVAC, and lighting.\r\n\r\nFind Certified Professionals\r\n\r\n<a href=\"https://www.acca.org/home\">Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA)</a>\r\nHVAC membership organization.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http://www.hvacradvice.com/site/1/Home\">North American Technician Excellence (NATE)</a>\r\nThird-party certification for HVAC contractors.\r\n\r\nDuct Sealing\r\n\r\n<a href=\"https://aeroseal.com/\">Aeroseal</a>\r\nLicensed contractors in over 30 states.\r\n\r\nDuctless Split Heat Pumps\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http://www.daikinac.com/\">Daikin® AC</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http://www.fujitsugeneral.com/products/\">Fujitsu®</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http://www.mitsubishicomfort.com/\">Mitsubishi®</a>\r\n\r\nHeat Pump Water Heaters\r\n\r\nNyle Systems Geyser™\r\n\r\nHigh-Efficiency Water Heaters and Solar Water-Heating Tanks\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http://www.americanwaterheater.com/\">American Water Heaters</a>\r\n<a href=\"https://www.hotwater.com/\">AO Smith® Corporation</a>\r\n<a href=\"https://www.bradfordwhite.com/\">Bradford White® Corporation</a>\r\n<a href=\"http://www.htproducts.com/\">Heat Transfer Products (HTP®)</a>\r\nBoilers and water heaters.\r\n<a href=\"https://www.rheem.com/\">Rheem</a>\r\n<a href=\"https://www.rheem.com/innovations/innovation_residential/marathon/?utm_source=/marathon/&amp;utm_medium=vanityURL&amp;utm_campaign=vanityURL%3f\">Rheem – Marathon®</a>\r\nElectric-resistance water heaters.\r\n\r\nHousehold Air Quality and Healthy Remodeling Resources\r\n\r\n<a href=\"https://buildingscience.com/document-search?term=&amp;field_doc_topic_tid=All&amp;type%5B%5D=4\">Building Science Corporation (BSC)</a>\r\nContains “READ THIS” and “What You Need to Know About Mold” booklets.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"https://www.dorken.com/en/our-products/products/residential/delta-fl.php\">DELTA®-FL</a>\r\nWarm and dry floor system for basement and on-grade slabs.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http://nchh.org/\">National Center for Healthy Housing (NCHH)</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"https://www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq\">U.S. Environmental Protection Agency</a>\r\nLinks for asthma, mold, lead, radon, etc.\r\n\r\nHVAC Equipment\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http://www.firstco.com/#/\">Aquatherm®</a>\r\nHydro-air handlers.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http://www.durodyne.com/home.php\">Duro Dyne Corporation</a>\r\nHigh-quality duct dampers and HVAC supplies.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http://www.spacepak.com/\">Spacepak</a>\r\nCompact high-velocity HVAC and ductwork.\r\n\r\nInsulation\r\n\r\n<a href=\"https://www.dow.com/en-us/building\">Dow Thermax</a>\r\nRigid foam rated for exposed service.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"https://www.cellulose.org/index.php\">Cellulose Installation Manufacturers Association (CIMA)</a>\r\nManufacturer links can provide contractor referrals.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"https://insulationinstitute.org/\">North American Insulation Manufacturers Association (NAIMA)</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http://www.sprayfoam.org/\">Spray Polyurethane Foam Alliance (SPFA)</a>\r\n\r\nPool Pump Sizing Information\r\n\r\n<a href=\"https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/installing-and-operating-efficient-swimming-pool-pump\">U.S. Department of Energy - Energy Saver</a>\r\n\r\nSolar and Alternative Energy\r\n\r\n<a href=\"https://pvwatts.nrel.gov/\">National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL)</a>\r\nSolar electric calculator.\r\n\r\n<a href=\"http://www.solar-rating.org/\">Solar Rating &amp; Certification Corporation (ICC-SRCC)</a>\r\nRatings on solar water heating and pool heating collectors and systems.\r\n<h4>Energy New England</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li>100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 Foxborough, MA 02035</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li>508-698-1200</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-0222</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">\r\nsolutions@ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ene.org/\">\r\nwww.ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>Website</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\"> Home\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\"> Energy Assessment\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\"> Recommendations\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\"> Town We Serve\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\"> Home Advisor\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"#\"> Shop\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\"> Contact\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>social media</h4>\r\n<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\r\nLinkedin\r\n</a>','Resources','','publish','closed','closed','','resources','','','2018-08-10 01:18:03','2018-08-10 01:18:03','',0,'http://ee.ene.org/?page_id=2129',0,'page','',0),(2130,4,'2018-07-26 18:28:33','2018-07-26 18:28:33','','Resources','','inherit','closed','closed','','2129-revision-v1','','','2018-07-26 18:28:33','2018-07-26 18:28:33','',2129,'http://ee.ene.org/2129-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2131,4,'2018-07-30 16:29:51','2018-07-30 16:29:51','Other Energy Saving Devices\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor01\">Thermostats</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor02\">Pipe Insulation</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor03\">Hot- Water Conservation</a>\r\n\r\n<a href=\"#anchor04\">Electronics</a>\r\n<h1>Thermostats</h1>\r\nThe thermostat is a control that is common to virtually every heating system. A thermostat senses the room temperature and turns the heat on when the temperature drops below the set point. The simplest thing you can do to save energy is to turn down the thermostat. Depending on the climate, you can save about 10 percent if you keep the house cooler by 3°F to 5°F.\r\nTurning down a thermostat saves energy, but only if you’re consistent. If one person is always turning it down, and another is always turning it back up, the person who turns it up may set the thermostat even higher to compensate for feeling chilly—and use more energy. This “dueling manager” syndrome is particularly wasteful if you have a heat pump. Find the lowest setting that everyone in the family is consistently comfortable with, and then leave it alone (other than for regular setbacks).\r\nAnother way to save energy with your thermostat is by using a regular setback. Turning down the house temperature for 6 to 8 hours while everyone is asleep, or away during the day, can save a lot—about 10 percent for an 8-hour, 10°F setback. Contrary to popular belief, it does not take more energy to bring the house back up to temperature. Remember, the heating system replaces heat that the house loses; if the indoor temperature is lower for a period of time, the house simply loses less heat during that time. But don’t overcompensate by setting the thermostat higher when you return; a setting of 78°F does not warm the house up any faster than a setting of 70°F.\r\nOne problem with turning down the thermostat while you’re away (or asleep) is that the house is cold when you return home (or get up). If you have a fairly regular schedule, an automatic thermostat can help. Set it to turn down the heat when you leave and turn it back up just before you get home; down at bedtime, up before you get up. Once it’s set, you don’t have to do anything. Most automatic thermostats can handle at least two setback periods during the day, and separate programs for weekends or all seven days.\r\nThe Nest Learning Thermostat™ is a new twist on the old thermostat. It learns from your behavior to create automatic setbacks and bring the house back to temperature when you need it. A motion sensor knows if you come home early, and a wireless network interface allows remote control from a computer or smartphone, as well as access to local weather data. Other brands to consider are the Honeywell Lyric™ or the ecobee™.\r\n<h1>Pipe Insulation</h1>\r\nPipe insulation is inexpensive and widely available at hardware stores and home centers. Make sure the material used on heating pipes is rated to at least 180° F, because some types will melt on heating pipes.\r\n\r\nSafety First\r\n\r\nYears ago, materials containing asbestos were commonly used to insulate pipes and ducts. Usually white and fibrous, asbestos is often fragile; if disturbed, it can release dangerous fibers into the air. If your pipes or ducts appear to have asbestos insulation, don’t touch it. Asbestos materials confirmed by a lab test should either be covered or removed. Learn more at www.epa.gov/asbestos.\r\nSome appliances use electricity even when you think they are turned off. Set-top boxes such as DVRs and cable television decoders are a common example: If they’re plugged in, they’re consuming energy whether they’re being used or not. Anything that turns on with a remote control draws energy continuously, staying on to receive the signal from the remote. Many consumer electronics use power whenever they are plugged in. The good news is, new electronic devices are becoming far more energy-efficient in idle or “standby” modes. The bad news is that most American families add electronic devices over time, offsetting efficiency gains.\r\n<figure><img title=\"Misc_Topics_Pic1\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Misc_Topics_Pic1.png\" alt=\"Misc_Topics_Pic1\" /><figcaption>This wall cube draws power even when nothing is plugged into it.</figcaption></figure>\r\n<h1>Hot-Water Conservation</h1>\r\nThere are a number of ways you can reduce hot-water usage and consumption.\r\n\r\nLow-flow showerheads\r\n\r\nBecause most Americans shower every day, reducing a showerhead’s flow can save a lot of water and money. Depending on the flow rate at which you start—in gallons per minute—and the number of people in the household, your yearly savings can be substantial. These numbers assume a water-heater recovery efficiency of 77 percent, daily 5-minute showers for each person in the house, and a natural gas price of $1.20/therm. If you heat your water with electricity, the savings will be about double. Remember that you won’t just be saving fuel costs: For every $10 in water-heating savings, you will also save about 2,000 gallons of water per year.\r\nIf the flow rate of a shower is more than 3 GPM, it is well worth replacing it with a new low-flow 1.5-GPM showerhead. Even if you already have a 2.5 GPM showerhead, consider upgrading to even lower flow along with a better shower. Shop around; if your existing showerhead dates before 1993, almost any new one that you install will save hot water—and not at the expense of a good shower.\r\n\r\nFaucet aerators\r\n\r\nLike showerheads, new kitchen and lavatory faucets have had maximum-flow ratings of 2.2 GPM and 1.5 GPM (respectively) since the mid-1990s. Some vintage fixtures don’t have standard screw-in aerators and cannot be retro- fitted easily, but in most cases a new aerator in an existing faucet can further reduce hot water usage. Besides the basic aerator shown below left, some units give you more control over water flow. If you are planning to replace a kitchen faucet, an integrated faucet/retractable sprayer unit can provide flexible spray patterns and low water flow in one attractive package.\r\n\r\nOther appliances\r\n\r\nThere are two other home appliances that use a lot of hot water: clothes washers and dishwashers. New Energy Star–rated washers save at least 37 percent of the hot water and electricity used by conventional washing machines. Regardless of your washing machine type, you can easily save hot water by being conscious of your usage. Use warm wash/cold rinse or cold cycles when hot is unnecessary and set the fill level appropriately to the size of load. Dishwashers are a little more complicated. Older units generally depend on an incoming hot-water temperature of 130°F or higher to work properly. Most new models have built-in booster heaters, which heat the wash water to at least 140°F right in the dishwasher. Not only do they use less hot water, but they also allow you to reduce the temperature setting on your water heater. Most important, remember that modern dishwashers use less hot water, energy, and water than even very careful hand dishwashing. So load up and use the dishwasher for everything that’s dishwasher safe.\r\n<img title=\"Misc_Topics_Pic2\" src=\"/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Misc_Topics_Pic2.png\" alt=\"Misc_Topics_Pic2\" />\r\n\r\nWater Sense\r\n\r\nSince 2006, WaterSense® has labeled toilets, faucets, showerheads, and weather-based irrigation controllers to demonstrate that they meet water-efficiency criteria that exceed national standards and perform well. WaterSense also labels certification programs for landscape-irrigation professionals who demonstrate proficiency in water-efficient irrigation systems. Efficient toilets and landscape irrigation won’t save hot water, but they can save a lot on your water bill, and ultimately save some energy too. See www.epa.gov/WaterSense.\r\n<h1>Electronics</h1>\r\nYou may think that when you turn something off at the switch that it is off. But many consumer electronics, computer equipment, and some appliances don’t really turn off. They go into a standby mode, waiting for you to turn the switch back on or to click a remote. The energy used during standby is sometimes called a phantom or vampire load, creating a slow and steady drain on your electric meter. A standby mode can provide real utility (such as the clock on the coffeemaker that shows you the time and can make your coffee just before you wake up). But they can also be a waste, or in between: A settop box or DVR needs to be on to record your favorite shows, even if you’re not there.\r\n\r\nStandby loads\r\n\r\nStandby loads for consumer electronics have been dropping rapidly due to voluntary standards like Energy Star in combination with advances in technology. But consumers are buying more and more electronics every year, so the sheer number of devices tends to offset efficiency improvements. Fortunately, there are many control devices available to help you plug up these energy leaks (see the sidebar above). If you are thoughtful about how you apply these controls, you can save energy, and in some cases even enhance convenience.\r\nAnother area of phantom energy use that you can easily control is your computer. In addition to putting peripherals and monitors on a control, you should also avoid screen savers, some of which actually increase energy use. And don’t leave the computer on unless it’s actually doing something. There’s a lingering myth that leaving a computer running reduces wear and tear, but that advice harkens back to a time when hardware and operating systems were unreliable. All modern operating systems include standby or hibernation modes that recover quickly, and actually save wear and tear, while saving electricity. Look for settings such as Power Options or Energy Saver. Note that some standby modes require a small amount of energy, so be sure that your desktop computer is plugged into an always-on outlet so your session is preserved when everything else shuts down.\r\n\r\nSmart Strips\r\n\r\nMany gadgets are available to help manage phantom loads. They all promise to pay for themselves in a year or two, but their impact depends entirely on what’s plugged in and how it’s used. Any control will save the most when it shuts off larger plug loads; the best opportunities are usually found in groups of devices, like entertainment centers or home offices.\r\n\r\nThe Smart Strip® is one of several brands that sense when a “primary” load (such as a computer or TV) is running. When you switch off that primary device, most of the other outlets in the strip automatically shut off power to peripherals such as monitor, printer, DVD player, or game console. Look for a load-sensing device that you can adjust to properly sense the standby or “off” power level of your primary device.\r\n<h4>Energy New England</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li>100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 Foxborough, MA 02035</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-1200</li>\r\n 	<li>508-698-0222</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">\r\nsolutions@ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ene.org/\">\r\nwww.ene.org\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>Website</h4>\r\n<ul>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\"> Home\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\"> Energy Assessment\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\"> Recommendations\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\"> Town We Serve\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\"> Home Advisor\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"#\"> Shop\r\n</a></li>\r\n 	<li><a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\"> Contact\r\n</a></li>\r\n</ul>\r\n<h4>social media</h4>\r\n<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\r\nLinkedin\r\n</a>','Other Energy Saving Devices','','inherit','closed','closed','','2119-revision-v1','','','2018-07-30 16:29:51','2018-07-30 16:29:51','',2119,'http://ee.ene.org/2119-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),(2133,4,'2018-07-30 17:12:44','2018-07-30 17:12:44','<h2><p>Resources</p></h2>		\n		This section is intended to help you access additional information about energy efficiency ideas, designs, and products.<p><a href=\"#anchor01\">Federal Sites</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor02\">State Sites</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor03\">Information/Incentives and Assistance</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor04\">Online Home Energy Assessments</a></p>\n<p><a href=\"#anchor05\">Information on Efficient Appliances, Electronics, and Equipment</a></p>		\n			<h1>Federal Sites</h1>		\n		The United States Government has set up a number of websites to help energy consumers learn about their energy use and make energy efficient choices. Here are a few:U.S. <a href=\"https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/energy-saver\">Department of Energy - Energy Saver</a>\nPartnerships for home energy efficiency.\n<a href=\"https://www.energystar.gov/\">U.S Environmental Protection Agency - ENERGY STAR</a>\nHelps consumers make purchasing choices that reduce the energy they use.\n<a href=\"http://hes.lbl.gov/consumer/\">Home Energy Saver</a>\nAn interactive program to help consumers identify the best ways to save energy in their home and find the resources to make savings happen.\n<a href=\"https://www.energy.gov/eere/office-energy-efficiency-renewable-energy\">U.S Department of Energy - Office of Energy Efficiency &amp; Renewable Energy</a>\nGovernment resources and data to help consumers research their energy saving options.\n<a href=\"https://www.energy.gov/eere/wipo/weatherization-and-intergovernmental-program-office-projects-map\">U.S Department of Energy - Weatherization and Intergovernmental Programs Office</a>\nDirectory of weatherization programs by state.\n<a href=\"https://liheapch.acf.hhs.gov/referral.htm\">National Energy Assistance Referral (NEAR)</a>\nNEAR is a free service for persons who want information on where to apply for the Low Income Home Energy Assistance Program (LIHEAP), which may pay a portion of the energy bills of eligible low-income persons.		\n			<h1>State Sites</h1>		\n		<a href=\"https://www.mass.gov/energy-efficiency-for-your-home\">Mass.gov</a>\nLearn about energy efficiency programs, incentives, and products that will help you save energy and money in your home.\n<a href=\"https://www.mass.gov/guides/home-mvp\">Home Energy Market Value Performance (Home MVP) Pilot</a>\nA guide to the Home Energy Market Value Performance (Home MVP) Pilot that offers incentives to help Massachusetts residents reduce their home energy use, energy bills, and greenhouse gas emissions while improving home comfort and performance.		\n			<h1>Basement/Crawlspace Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		After the attic, the basement or crawlspace is the next most important area to seal for several reasons. Like the top of a home, the bottom typically has the largest air pressure pushing air in or out of the house, so sealing those leaks results in larger energy savings. Second, though often smaller than attic leaks, basement and crawlspace leaks tend to be larger than those in exterior walls. More important, in most climates, air leaks in from the bottom in cool or cold weather. This leaking air can carry radon gas, mold spores, gases from pesticide treatments, water vapor, and any other subsoil nasties that may become airborne. Sealing leaks at the lowest level of your home helps prevent these undesirable elements from entering your home. Finally, most pipe-freezing problems result from cold air leaking in around the sills, where the pipes are often located.		\n			<p>Basement walls</p>		\n		<p>Generally, consider it most effective to create a good air barrier between the basement and the outdoors by sealing the walls. This is typically true even if you intend to insulate the floor over the basement. There are four common leakage areas in basement walls: service penetrations, stepped-wall transitions, bulkhead doors, and the sill/band joist area.</p><p><b>Service penetrations</b> Every home has basic service penetrations, such as those for electricity, telephone, plumbing, fuel lines, and cable TV. Often, these penetrations are made in the band-joist area, also called the box sill or ribbon joist in conventionally framed houses (in older homes, this may be one large sill beam). Sometimes penetrations come through the foundation (especially plumbing drains, which are always below grade).</p><p><b>Stepped foundation</b> walls are often built on hillsides in cold climates. The vertical parts of the steps are often particularly leaky.</p><p><b>Bulkhead doors </b>Another common source of basement leakage is the bulkhead door. Bulkheads are designed to keep out rain but not to stop air. If your basement is unfinished, the best way to deal with this is to install a new exterior door at the foundation wall inside the bulkhead.</p><p><b>Sills and band joists</b> The tops of foundation walls are often far from flat. The gaps may be small, but spread around the perimeter of a home, they really add up. Even recently built homes that have a foam sill sealer between the sill and the concrete may leak a lot of cold air there.</p>		\n			<p>Pro Tip</p>		\n		If you want to use your basement as living space, you should plan to completely air-seal and insulate the exterior basement walls.		\n			<p>Safety First</p>		\n		<p>Although air-sealing a home can theoretically increase radon levels, it is unlikely. Sealing leaks and slowing the stack effect is more likely to reduce the amount of soil gas— including radon—that is pulled into the house from underground. The only way to tell whether you have dangerous radon levels is to test your home. Because of the potential health risks, it is a good idea to test for radon whether or not you do air-sealing. If elevated radon levels are confirmed by at least two tests, find a certified professional to install a mitigation system. See <u>www.epa.gov/radon</u> for more information.</p>		\n			<p>Blower-door testing</p>		\n		<p>Air-sealing is a job that requires much more labor than material, which often suggests a do-it-yourself approach. However, air-sealing does require attention to detail and (in many homes) a willingness to squeeze into difficult places. If these qualities don’t describe you, it may be worth hiring a building-performance professional. Experienced professionals use a blower door to help find air leaks and measure the tightness of the building. The fan blows air into (or out of) the house, measuring how well the building enclosure contains pressure. This can be very handy, especially in a house with complex air-leakage paths.</p>\n<p>It’s also good to keep the big picture in mind: If you are planning on renovating or adding onto your house, you will have a unique opportunity to seal leaks while the building is opened up. It may not make sense to manually seal leaks now that you know you will deal with them more effectively at the next stage, especially leaks that are small or hard to reach. Of course, if the next stage is a few years off, it may still be well worth hitting the big leaks at a minimum. A building performance&nbsp;professional can help you set priorities and make a long-term plan.&nbsp;</p>		\n			<p>Sealing the floor deck</p>		\n		<p>Although it is typically more difficult than sealing foundation walls, sealing the floor deck between the basement and the first floor may make sense. If you want to use the basement as living space, it’s almost always better and easier to insulate and seal the exterior basement walls. But if the house sits on an unfinished basement or vented crawlspace, you may benefit from sealing the floor from below.</p>		\n			<p>Crawlspaces</p>		\n		Crawlspaces are nothing more than short basements, usually just deep enough for the footings to be below the frost line. Unlike basements, they often have exposed dirt floors. Building code requirements for vapor retarders are typically inadequate, even when they are followed properly. Crawlspaces can be pretty nasty places; they often have inadequate drainage. Building codes that require these spaces be vented to the outdoors may make matters worse. The best treatment for a crawlspace is to include it in the conditioned space by sealing and insulating the exterior walls, just like a basement.		\n			<p>Slab-on-grade</p>		\n		<p>If your home (or part of your home) has no basement or crawlspace, it is probably a concrete slab-on-grade. Those homes are somewhat simpler to seal because there are fewer connections among building materials at the foundation. Your primary job with slab-on-grade construction is to caulk or otherwise seal the exterior walls where the house framing meets the slab.</p>		\n			<h1>Sidewall Air-Sealing</h1>		\n		<p>Exterior walls are not typically the leakiest parts of a house. Leaks occur in walls where services enter the home, where the framing of the house makes transitions, around rough openings for windows, and through and around window sashes.</p>		\n			<p>Service penetrations</p>		\n		Sealing cable, wiring, plumbing, and telephone service penetrations is fairly easy. Such openings are usually accessible from the exterior and are often small because some effort is made to weatherproof them during installation.		\n			<p>Transitions in exterior wall framing</p>		\n		One common example of a wall transition is a cantilevered floor, typically an overhang of 1 ft. to 3 ft. that is common on raised ranches and Colonial-style homes. Often, the plywood soffit at the bottom of the overhang is not sealed tightly, and air can leak through these gaps, which are easy to caulk.		\n			<h1>Weatherstripping Doors and Hatches</h1>		\n		<p>Most modern doors and windows have good weatherstripping built in, but older ones usually don’t. In addition, many homes have at least one less-finished, or even makeshift, door or hatchway as part of the thermal boundary.</p>		\n			<h4>Energy New England</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n										100 Foxborough Blvd., Suite 110 </br>Foxborough, MA 02035\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-1200\n									</li>\n								<li >\n										508-698-0222\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"mailto:solutions@ene.org​\">						\n										solutions@ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ene.org/\">						\n										www.ene.org\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>Website</h4>		\n					<ul>\n							<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/\">					Home\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/energy-assessment/\">					Energy Assessment\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/recommendations/\">					Recommendations\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/towns-we-serve/\">					Town We Serve\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/home-advisor/\">					Home Advisor\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"#\">					Shop\n											</a>\n									</li>\n								<li >\n					<a href=\"https://ee.ene.org/contact/\">					Contact\n											</a>\n									</li>\n						</ul>\n			<h4>social media</h4>		\n							<a href=\"https://www.linkedin.com/company/energy-new-england/\" target=\"_blank\">\n					Linkedin\n				</a>','Resources','','inherit','closed','closed','','2129-revision-v1','','','2018-07-30 17:12:44','2018-07-30 17:12:44','',2129,'http://ee.ene.org/2129-revision-v1/',0,'revision','',0),